No Crank...No Start...No Parts Required! (Nissan Armada)

This 2005 Nissan Armada refuses to crank over after the engine bay was power-washed.
Sure sounds like a low battery condition, but a JUMP START DOES NOT HELP!
Which tool comes out first to troubleshoot a no-crank? The trusty DVOM!
Really neat example of voltage drop testing, and NPR repairs :)
ASTRO AI AMP CLAMP:
www.amazon.com...
Enjoy!
Ivan

[@duanebuck193]

Once again we go back to your normal starting point - powers and grounds. A lot of people fail to understand how important good terminal ends are on the battery and why - and you just showed both!

[@AP9311]

Wow, so simple diagnosis!! Bad ground! I would have thought to get aoem ground strap and replace it!! But gotta love NPR jobs!! Great video!!

[@marleneriegel5181]

I enjoy watching you solve these little mind boggling mysteries makes it look so simple. Thank You😎👍🏼

[@kastooMcFry]

You should start selling t-shirts with " Pine Hollow - No Parts Required!" printed on it. I'd get some, just out of thanks for you posting your videos.

[@timbo19751975]

Emergency repair, but new earth strap needed for reliabile repair.

[@arsinoeivlostprincess4228]

That tape may have actually held moisture underneath it leading to corrosion over time.

[@JerichoRally]

I bet the chemicals used during the pressure washing/degreasing helped expedite the corrosion process.

[@mikes9939]

They still need to replace that cable with a factory piece not some parts store junk.

[@htownblue11]

Alright, I know this is gonna sound crazy….but….Ivan is not a human. He is an Advanced Alien species with superior magical mechanical powers who was sent to earth to fix silly human inferior vehicles without needing to purchase parts. Seriously no other explanation for his level of skills. His “Russian” background is just a cover story. Convince me otherwise if you can. 😂😂. Ivan you’re amazing man. I love learning from you brother.

[@wonerable]

Nah, he is just an actual true blue old school style mechanic. Not just a parts changer.

[@traildisc155]

Just a regular tech

[@mariosaccoccio1688]

"I don't know why you people think this is some kind of magic, it's just this little chromium switch here "

[@pucmahone3893]

I concur!

[@braaapattack2937]

Someone’s head is gonna explode for using vise grips as a crimping tool 😂

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

👌😎

[@catsbyondrepair]

your not supposed to use vice grips as a crimping tool you dumbass 😂.

[@Peter-pv8xx]

@UCMLcCPSBrC1L_HT3TcLSZ4g And why not, they're just pliers and provide extra leverage to make sure it's tight, oh and by the way it's you're not your, dumbass, you're is a contraction for you are, your is possessive, as in your hands or your mind etc, a little English grammer and spelling lesson no extra charge.

[@catsbyondrepair]

@@Peter-pv8xx it was a fucking joke dude

[@miscbits6399]

real crimpers are abour $30, worth keeping in the toolbox

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

Time to get out the thermal imager!

[@michaelpiecewicz9748]

FLIR for the win!!!!!

[@simonparkinson1053]

The melted insulation was the only thermal image needed on this one... Two lots of insulation tape told us it was clearly not a new problem for this vehicle! Shame nobody joined the dots earlier, but see this so many times.

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

@@simonparkinson1053 yeah, after watching the video it became even easier. I posted before watching it. ;)

[@mikechiodetti4482]

That negative battery cable clamp is junk. I went through this with my 06 Nissan Frontier 4.0L V6 on the positive cable end. It would not tighten down. I replaced it with a brass cable end. The negative cable terminal on that Armada had corrosion and heat affect it by removing the coating and exposing the copper. A stronger cable terminal is needed. Having the cable strands exposed is not good. A round closed end terminal is needed to eliminate dirt, air, moisture and corrosion intrusion.

[@farmermiyagi1338]

Ha! I was crimping a large cable end with vise grips one day, with my 30 yr old son helping me in the shop, I crimped it as far as I could then gave the pliers another twist and could not close them, so I told him, "here you're younger than me, grab these and clamp them shut". He couldn't, so I grabbed a hold and closed them. He said "dammit Dad. How in the hell can you squeeze that?!?" I told him "remember that if you ever wonder whether or not you want me grabbing you". ;)

[@davyarthurs]

Ivan you should trade mark the 'No Parts Required' line.. 😛 I bet the customer was pleased when they heard it fire up! Skills as always.

[@milantrcka121]

Pretty cheesy terminal to begin with. I would replace it, NPR notwithstanding. Been there, done that.

[@zx8401ztv]

KZbin ate my comment :-( Ill try again: Well done ivan :-D High resistance connectons are so sneaky, they are a sleeper just waiting to fail. When i used to work in a auto factory, i had to solder battery cables. If the strands were clean the solder would flow, but there were times i had to clean and tin each strand. The solder flowed so much better :-D I find vicegrips so so handy, a great american invention :-D

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Nice 👌

[@jimyep9971]

Baking soda n hot water does wonders to the greenies.

[@miscbits6399]

it also works for leaking dry and alkaline cells if you've ever had batteries leak in a remote. It's Duracell's recommended cleanup method (they leak occasionally, despite the claims)

[@spelunkerd]

Good for you, to actually hunt down the problem before trying to fix things. Most of us can't hold ourselves back, we tighten and clean cable connections to save a minute of time. Half way through, when the problem is harder to find, we begin to doubt....

[@blueribb99]

For a permanent fix: 1 tablespoon of Table Salt and 1 cup of Vinegar will remove the corrosion from the copper wire in minutes. Then use baking soda and water to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution. Dry thoroughly, crimp tightly and then add a few drops of liquid flux. Use a very high heat iron or small torch to solder the wire to the connector, letting the solder flow into the stranded wires.

[@mrjsv4935]

Some time ago saw Edd China (of Wheeler Dealer fame) in his KZbin channel fixing corroded wire using method you just described :)

[@TonyRule]

Mmmmm salt and vinegar. I'd be too tempted to put it on my chips.

[@adotintheshark4848]

and finish the repair by coating the connection with a little silicon grease.

[@RickyRisnandar]

been there, forget to tighten bolt with ground strap around it after replacing transmission mount

[@2509498788]

The power of knowledge

[@grahamstaddon9990]

Never thought of proving the ground with a meter, have jumpered a ground before to confirm

[@greggreen1139]

Just wanted to stop in and hopefully you get to read this. You're doing great work keep it up.

[@bobspurloc]

bah. true Russian repair leaves the tape and vice grips in place over tape. obviously the tape wasnt tight enough.

[@dkupy100]

LOL

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

Good find Ivan. That connector had problems before and will have problems in the future. I would recommend replacing that Negative cable. They are relatively cheap, and a repeat failure could be very inconvenient and expensive.

[@maui6446]

Ivan, I agree with Stealth. Additionally, your reputation is at stake. The cable is less than $13 on RockAuto. Say, ~$20 with shipping. Probably $25 at the parts store. The customer should know that for a ~$100 additional they will never have this problem again in the life of the vehicle.

[@miscbits6399]

Agreed. That's a "get you home" repair, not a permanent fix (guaranteed the owner will leave it forever)

[@DaddyBeanDaddyBean]

Everything is a temporary fix unless it works. 😁

[@bigfootemobileauto9734]

Nice diagnosis and fix as usual Ivan! You know what's really weird, after watching your video the next video that comes up was Eric's video from a year ago about the exact same thing. A groundwire causing a no start.. Kind of funny

[@DaddyBeanDaddyBean]

Was that the one where he said "watch this, folks - three, two, one (bloop)" and a green braided ground strap crumbled to powder ?

[@DaddyBeanDaddyBean]

Was that the one where he said "watch this, folks - three, two, one (bloop)" and a green braided ground strap crumbled to powder ?

[@RideCamVids]

FWIW When the battery is on the way out, some Ford models will do the needle tremor on start up like whats happening on that Nissan. The battery in such cases with the F150 etc, appears to start the vehicle ok but its actually in the very early stages of going bad when tested.

[@davidmcclain5180]

You can hear the mode door or blend air door actuator ticking in the background when he was starting the car. My neighbor has the same car with all three actuators ticking.

[@rysacroft]

Thanks, I was wondering what that noise was.

[@josephneal4858]

bad grounds will get your customers every time...... To their eyes it all looks fine >>>>>>>>NO NO NO!!!! Bad connections That's ALL!!!!! Nice fix brother!!!!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Voltmeter doesn't lie 😁

[@williegillie5712]

Boy I don’t like those thin ends on that cable. Nice quick diag. and repair Ivan. A little Russian Ingenuity, no parts required.

[@TonyRule]

Damn I was hoping for one of those elusive "NO CRANK START" jobs!

[@Eric_the_Hiking]

It's possible with a manual transmission.

[@TonyRule]

@@Eric_the_Hiking Touche

[@MrStatic101]

Man I learned something today. Wow. Didn’t realize you could do a voltage drop test on the ground to check it. Subscribed!

[@shadowtruck5991]

Great find ! Question from a novice? What must be the ground voltage "normal" drop ? Btw, new subscriber here.

[@Ram14250]

Great Video! But what's that "Thunking" sound when you turn the key on for the first few seconds? Blend door getting hung up/ striped temp door gear?

[@curtgomes]

Great job Ivan...... I had a loose block ground on my Toyota that caused intermittent issues... the engine just stopped running every now and then. I believe you would have diagnosed that issue pretty quickly. It took me quite some time and frustration to fix it; including Toyota service costly misdiagnosis. Cure: Tighten block ground bolt! Cost: $750.00 for unneeded repairs.

[@litz13]

That tape is on there because I will bet this isn't the first time this repair has been done.

[@blockbertus]

But what if the tape made it worse by trapping moisture in there for longer? Wouldnt dielectric grease be the better option here?

[@petereff5724]

I never trust crimp connections, especially on high current applications. DeoxIT is good stuff but it doesn't last forever. A little solder will secure that connection for the life of the car.

[@sergiodjf]

Good job! 👍Were you the first one troubleshooting this truck? Or did someone else try to figure it out before?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

The owner spent days on it... Might have even replaced the IPDM 🙄

[@RussellBooth1977]

I would apply some solder to the crimp lug just in case the same thing happens again,it will provide better continuity as well. That's because this afternoon that dreaded Ford Falcon (Futura) cut out on me with the replacement ECU,the old one has damage to one of the resistors inside of it which is why I replaced it,I put it down to a faulty EFI relay which was causing the engine to cut out as well but the battery terminals were also loose as well. I went through & soldered the crimped on battery terminals to make sure there is good continuity, it's something which is done in car sound systems where gold plated battery terminals are used,the terminals are soldered for better electrical continuity. I know that I shouldn't have to go to that extent with a car because I've never had that much trouble with a Holden which is a GM make of car,the Ford is someone elses. I know that Chrysler solder the crimp terminals in their Jeeps for example !

[@brycelund4112]

I wouldn’t. With that much current flow just a crimp is best in my opinion.

[@brycelund4112]

@T.J. Kong agreed.

[@ferrumignis]

I'd have removed the eye and crimped a new one on, using a proper crimp tool rather than vice grips. Would have cost pennies but is the correct way to repair this.

[@blockbertus]

@@ferrumignis Yeah but looks like this was done in a pinch... ;-)

[@josecondemarin9586]

Great skills Sir, repair nicely done. Good video stay safe and healthy thanks 😊

[@billziegmond4943]

Love these NPR videos. Stay cool my friend. Oh BTW Saturn Astra getting new exhaust from cat back also new A/C pressure sensor.. Maybe I'll record some of it.

[@davidduarte5218]

Good diagnosis but replace the cable corrosion has already set in the terminal will corrode soon without proper sealing.

[@mikeaho4143]

Love it NPR ! Thanks for sharing Ivan.

[@rcf8367]

LOL! Bet you wished your right arm was longer, then you could reach through the window to crank tbe key.

[@hifiman4562]

I just did the Big 4 upgrade on my xterra. It absolutely roars to life now. New ground cables make a big difference.

[@scientist100]

hifi man lol mamon

[@BenjaminGarcia20]

Early early this time, keep up the good work 👌

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

👍😊

[@wyattoneable]

"The cars that can jump themselves". I like that.

[@shaunadams3170]

Like Eric O. Said so bright and shiny. Moana! Sorry have to watch it again for my other comment.

[@shaunadams3170]

Oh the blend / mode door actuator is bad. Lol. I'd go with blend. Just a guess with where to look first.

[@AhmedAli-hu8ng]

Hello sir ihave problem with ford focus st 2014 2.0l petrol my customer drive this car 3month ago everything will be fine no problem but now ihave trouble with this car no start no cluster lights I can check the all fuse and wiring we check already power ground and can network everything is okay can you let me now waht I should next can I Cheng the bcm or waht I do thanku

[@CajunShrek]

Never never pressure wash a modern engine! Use degreaser on hot motor and let it cool use water nozzle at most covering ECM and alternator

[@miscbits6399]

don't pressure wash old engines either. Spidey senses should be going ding ding ding if someone mentions doing this

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

If after 30 minutes, you can't find the bad connection, look for the one that's getting hot.

[@kennethbode2017]

your fingers will tell you

[@michaelpiecewicz9748]

But we need to buy a new toy!!!!! FLIR for the win

[@willemstreutgers1154]

One should sauder that crimpjoint. LOL

[@jesseblanchard9609]

Is that like solder?

[@valpanig]

@@jesseblanchard9609 with flux

[@williamburke09]

P1633 code Mazda 626 2.5 alternator been thrown at it. No change. Any help greatly appreciated

[@kevinbyrne4538]

Headline: Auto diagnostician Ivan Temnykh visits China ; Dorman auto parts goes bankrupt.

[@DaddyBeanDaddyBean]

Home gamer here. Great diagnosis, proof of concept and fix. I'm proud to say that between what I've learned here and from SMA, I came to the same conclusion based on symptoms - check the heavy powers & grounds through the starter circuit and see where the angry pixies are struggling to get through.

[@ottomendez2404]

My 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 starter tested good at Auto Zone Auto Parts and at O'Riley auto parts. Brand new battery, check the flywheel teeth and look fine. turn the engine by hand and it rotates without problem, when I turn the key to start, I hear the starter spinning [weeze sound].

[@patrickmorrissey2271]

That cable down by the crimp.. the one going out, was heavily corroded... that was no good either.... Just saying....

[@paulcostinett886]

Fusible link assembly on the positive post. Entire thing was shorted after changing spark plugs.

[@mrbigvanlife7130]

There’s your problem lady, you got a case of the green crusties. As a suggestion for a future video how about explain the concept of voltage drop.most techs I know don’t understand it, instead relying upon codes and parts cannon - many batteries and starters !

[@69Grunden]

Hopefully your still doing your magic? What is that clicking sound on the inside as your starting the Armada?

[@roxanneabbott8424]

Awesome and no parts required!!!

[@GNX157]

Ivan, I know it’s the wrong answer, but as you’re explaining what happened to the truck, the first thought that popped into my head after I heard the starter, was “oh they got water in the engine from the power washer, and now it’s hydraulic-ed.”

[@Thermool]

That ever present blend door actuator on Nissan Armada/ Titan

[@elijahperez159]

Would you recommend buying a used Nissan Pathfinder armada over the same year Chevy Tahoe?

[@GREATTECH1]

I would have REPLACED the cable for sure.

[@baxrok2.]

NPR! Well done Ivan. Thanks!

[@Dapple726]

I changed the battery cable, replaced the starter and still no go. Running out of $$ and ideas. Just one click no turn over

[@sortaliketheone]

Mines was doing the same thing I thought it was dead so I hooked jump box to it and it made the jump box overheat could that issue cause what happened to my jump box?

[@iGeng]

flap flap flap flap flap. Nissan and its shitty blend door actuators

[@Trafficmaintenanceworker]

Having the same problem 2012 Nissan Titian any help

[@shopsofcivica6395]

Sounds horrible. I bet some of the connectors have water inside from the pressure wash.

[@hikerJohn]

That was a cheep terminal. I doubt the car came with that one.

[@hightttech]

Agreed. That terminal is too soft, and open style not best for that application. Needs real battery lug and hydraulic crimp 👍.

[@adotintheshark4848]

Now that the behemoth starts and runs fine, advise the owner to sell it.

[@Nic1Moreno]

Exactly ...sounds horrible think once those oil lines blew they did t realize it in time..Also looks like it's over filled once the pulled the dip stick...I bet it was over filled and that's what caused it to blow lines...

[@georgebonney90]

Thank u sir 👍

[@Garth2011]

Good job in the parking lot. I'd still get a propane torch and some solder on that fitting or find a better negative cable terminal to replace that thin design.

[@brainndamage]

I always crimp+solder terminals like that that are outside in the elements, it prevents the water from getting inside the wire and corroding it internally

[@brainndamage]

I usually also use heatshrink with glue

[@miscbits6399]

soldered terminals are dangerous at high currents and best avoided. I saw a $5 million satellite ground station go up in flames traced to soldered wire ends under screw terminals and the same issue applies to crimps Solder creeps under pressure and the resistance goes up which means they start getting hot and then the solder creeps more, leading to intermittency or full on failure A properly done crimp has contact pressures of hundreds of tons per square inch and the metals cold weld into place after a few months. Never reuse a crimp and never "do it twice to be sure" - this almost always destroys 90% of the crimp strength, resulting in premature failure A properly done crimp should have a service life of 30-50 years. Soldered joints are about half that

[@brainndamage]

@@miscbits6399 except you didn't understand what exactly I said. As you said, if you first solder, then crimp, that would be bad, as the solder would creep away leading to a loose connection. BUT if you first crimp, THEN solder, the crimp has already taken place before you add the solder, which fills in the extra space left between the wire strands, preventing corrosion, and making a BETTER mechanical connection. Similarly, you could not crimp at all and just solder, there would be no creep issues then, but would be less secure than crimping in case the lug gets loose, heats up and melts the solder. Again, the solder only holds the lug onto the wire, and doesn't transfer ANY force, so there are no creep issues. For example, big wires where you need a lot of force to properly crimp a lug, I usually solder, and I haven't had any issues yet (battery cables, ground cables, starter cables,...)

[@Garth2011]

@@brainndamage I agree on that. Besides, if someone is soldering a multi million dollar item to go the distance, likely they'd use silver solder or something similar.

[@dukeman7595]

Great detective work sorting it all out.

[@trekfortruth2841]

You mentioned the exhaust manifold tick at the 7:20 mark. Does that refer to a tick caused by a cracked manifold? I know that is a common issue with the Titans and Armadas. My 2013 Titan is almost at 80,000 miles and has developed some high, yet uneven long term fuel trim issues (between bank 1 and 2) and I am wondering if that could be the beginning of a cracked manifold. There is not a pronounced ticking sound yet, but perhaps that grows as the crack does? Any thoughts/insights are welcome. Subscribed! :-)

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Just wait until it throws a check engine light :)

[@trekfortruth2841]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks! It threw P0101 MAF code earlier this summer and I cleaned the sensor, reset it and it has yet to recur. I also got one random misfire code. Then I bought an OBD2 reader and started watching the live data and saw the long term fuel trim issues (+12/+21). I just went ahead and ordered a new MAF sensor as the readings at idle in drive seem to be declining over the past month, so I think it is under reporting. Runs fine except for a slightly elevated idle (about 100 rpms higher than Nissan lists). If I did not have the OBD2 readings I don't think I would notice any drive ability issues.

[@miscbits6399]

wait until you get a cracked manicat. $$$$! A good reason to ensure water can't get splashed on them

[@paulb4496]

A new connector would be a better repair. Too many heat cycles on that large ring terminal. The metal gets soft. Part of how a crimp connection works is the stiffness of the copper or steel connector to ensure a tight connection under adverse conditions. Underwood temperature goes from freezing to 200+ degrees on a hot day in traffic. TOO MANY HEAT CYCLES. LIKE AN EXHAUST HEADER OR A MUFFLER. HEAT CYCLES. I WOULD HAVE SOLDERED IT TOO.

[@SmudgyContent]

Hate it when ppl use to much electrical tape

[@marklindberg2230]

What is the "de-oxit" compound that you used?

[@cgirl111]

I'm pretty sure if it won't crank it won't start so ...

[@GerardoRocha-i7o]

I last my keys I need to take Tha egnition swech out

[@dxt7339]

Where did you get those aligator clips?

[@fredautos]

Its sound lîke a Bad Ground, but lets fine out

[@GlycerinZ]

gotta love an NPR

[@BigKkelvin57]

I see you up to the same all the same oh I could have fixed that and used only hand tools no electrical tools required The 1st thing I would have done was check the ground cable 1st thing I what are you doing with pull the tape off the ground cable and found the problem immediately no electrical tools required but I know you gotta make it look like it's some hard case to do just for you tfor you too I still say Russians make the worst cars in the world

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

If you touch stuff without first collecting data, you're gonna get BURNED, dude 😭

[@vwwrenchie314]

And so..the Spanish Armada was rescued from its electrical demise by Ivan the Conqueror😎👍

[@LethalBacon479]

Ah, it also has the infamous Nissan 5.6 cracked manifold issue as well. My Titan had the same thing and they are NOT pleasant to replace. :/

[@ShakaraHall-f4k]

My car is cranking but not Start what do I do

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

I wanted to see you solder like you said you were going to do and complete the job!

[@NCrdwlf]

Having a bit of same problem with my Xterra , after replacing old battery and ignition starter switch . Thanks for giving me something else to try .

[@jimburns9674]

Battery corrosion protectant. "Permatex 80370 Battery Protector and Sealer" for future prevention should also be used.

[@hughkoontz2166]

Did you use Deoxyit D5 spray? Heard deoxyit in the video but did not see a description or link. Looks like great stuff for battery corrosion.

[@radioace318la]

very good. I'm kinda shocked the CEL didn't light up like a Christmas tree with all that spurious voltage freaking everything out.

[@jamescollins2798]

Looks like one of the last of the proper cars there in the background . Ford Focus Mk1

[@Flowtester1]

I can’t believe he crimped that with those pliers by hand. He got that Russian grip strength.

[@billdursa4724]

If that is a factory ground it's a horrible design. Thanks again Ivan.

[@neilmurphy845]

I had the very same problem with the red cable the car would drain the battery and not start very easy arfter some fairly up liquid it now runs perfect

[@yumpinyiminy963]

Like power washing your engine bay. That's a No, No.

[@gdaddy7351]

The oil pressure gauge never wavered from the High range. Bad gauge or too much oil?

[@blockbertus]

I guess too much oil. Have you seen how much was on that dipstick? Looks like it was WAY over full.

[@aleskyfinis1025]

You should see it wants to lick