Clipping Technique for Sport Climbers | E:40

In this episode I break down my favorite clipping techniques for lead climbing based on where the draw is located in relationship to me. The clips are ordered from my most to least favorite. I am also of the camp that says keep climbing if the clip is too awkward or spicy, so I typically avoid #4, however, it has come in handy on a rare occasion. #1 is called my crux clip because I try to set up any cruxy clips for that technique. #1 feels automatic once you practice it a bit.
Clipping for lead climbing is something that you can practice while you are at home, quarantined, so I finally decided to get this video off of my hard drive and post it. I have been hesitant and slightly nervous to post so go easy on me. Hopefully this helps for your next sport climbing adventure.

[@hughesmatt0318]

Easily the best filmed clipping video I've seen.

[@LukeRockCimber]

Thank you very much for the positive feedback!!! Are there any other tutorials you think I should make?

[@alexanderjarde3971]

Completely agree! I was getting so frustrated going over so many clipping videos that don't show the hand movement clear enough, or with the quickdraw in a single position.

[@carlozuzic2617]

This is exactly the video I was looking for. Awesome video, very nicely done. Love to see people just starting their channel. Thumbs up and subbed right away :)

[@LukeRockCimber]

Thanks for the sub Carlo! I am glad the video could help! Let me know if there is any other videos you would like to see and I can take a shot at it!

[@piewert787]

Quality video! Just what I needed, will be coming back to this

[@LukeRockCimber]

I’m glad it helped!

[@tundra3038]

Thanks! This really is the most comprehensive and useful clipping video on KZbin

[@LukeRockCimber]

Thank you! Glad it was helpful for you!

[@antoinenourris1136]

At last ! I struggled so hard to understand how to clip with the quickdraw facing outward, thanks a lot !

[@LukeRockCimber]

Glad that this helped!!

[@jordillavina562]

What I was looking for, thanks for this!

[@LukeRockCimber]

Glad that this helped! Let me know if there are any other how to vids I should try to make!

[@tyfo911]

Was so confused on your second method because i initially thought you were z clipping everything but it’s genius.

[@stefanoses.956]

great techniques, very helpful! consider making a short video with zoomed/slow-mo versions too. thank you very much!

[@LukeRockCimber]

That’s a good idea! Have a few other vids in the queue but will add this to the to-do list!

[@drewhsu]

very helpful, thanks for sharing!! you explained it super well. time to practice ^_^

Best clipping video on youtube! 👍

[@mihax209]

Damn! the awkward clip technique is what I was looking for! It works for me (while practicing at least) really well in most positions, the other ways of right hand-gate right just don't freaking work for me, I was basically avoiding them

[@LukeRockCimber]

Haha yeah I mean I defiantly flip the draw around to make it the favorite technique if I can but sometimes (especially in the gym) it’s unavoidable and it helps! Another technique (I got from a commenter on Reddit) is to get your knot close to the top carabiner of the draw and then pick up the bottom gate up and just clip it into the rope. Gravity will keep the rope taunt and you can just grab the spine of the draw and push the gate into the rope.

[@Christopher-rp3bi]

The details in the editing with close up, left panel with writing instructions are great.

[@LukeRockCimber]

Thanks! Hoping I can make more of these in the future!

[@LilianCvl]

Thanks !

[@Nick-B78]

Great video

[@LukeRockCimber]

Thank you!!!!

[@LucasdaMatta]

thanks for sharing man

[@LukeRockCimber]

Glad you found it useful!!

[@LucasdaMatta]

@@LukeRockCimber definitely. Just starting to lead. Clipping takes 2/3 of the route lol

[@tomwe638]

thanks!

[@solennsmith6989]

Thanks for the video ! I m a beginner and I only knew the two ones you presented at the beginning (with left/right hand). Clipping is something I really struggled with but I m good now! However, do you have any tip for when you re need more rope ? I tend to use my teeth, but I ve heard it s bad cause if you fall you can seriously hurt your jaw...

[@LukeRockCimber]

Hey! I was really hesitant to post so I am glad to hear that you thought it is helpful! Great question on needing more rope and this is something that is often debated, even between my friends. There are definitely nuances to this question but I am going to answer in a more general sense with my opinion. I will start by saying the biggest risk of putting the rope in your teeth is that you can definitely rip your front teeth out if you fall while clipping. This is because if you fall your instinct will be to tighten your jaw and bite down and brace for the fall. With this in mind I tend to take the risk when I don't have any other options. If I feel like I'm going to fall, I am obviously going to try to spit it out. If it's really risky, I am probably just going to keep climbing until I am in a better clipping position. If you are a beginner sport climber and you find yourself pulling out rope all the time, my guess is that you are trying to clip too soon. My suggestion is to keep climbing and clip when its easiest to do so. Outside, most of the people who are bolting routes strategically place bolts near good clipping holds/positions. Inside, hopefully, you should be able to do the same thing. This can be scary and honestly, climbing is almost as much mental as physical. I would try to keep in mind that by climbing slightly higher you are actually going to be taking out less rope. Initially this might seem counterintuitive but if you are clipping above your head the rope has to go from the last clip below through the clip above your head and back down to you. If you climb up, instead of clipping overhead, you can cut down the distance that the rope has to come back down. (This is a lot easier to demonstrate than it is to write about - hopefully that makes sense.) I am thinking about making a video on Clipping stances/ positions/when to clip and I plan to discuss this, but the truth is that is going to be a while before I can make it. Hopefully this was helpful? TLDR: Keep climbing if you can. If not I risk it or take the whip if I'm too pumped

[@solennsmith6989]

@@LukeRockCimber wow thanks for the detailed answer ! It s truly awesome you took the time to answer so thoroughly. That did make sense and i will try it as soon as i can since i cant climb right now... but yeah the problem is more when i m on a overhang or just hanging by the fingers... a video on clipping position might be really useful ! Thanks again !

[@LukeRockCimber]

@@solennsmith6989 Glad it helped!! On an overhung route I will tend to use the second technique because its quick and effective way to clip when the draw is hanging out from the wall and you can easily slide your hand behind it. One thing I should have mentioned is that this technique also will not force you to put the rope in your mouth because you aren't pinching the rope. Your hand is under the rope so you just let it slide between your thumb and your index finger as you reach up. On the second point, if you are just hanging on by the fingers my only advice is to breath and just keep climbing haha. Take the time make sure you have your feet well positioned and then make the clip. Sorry for the long comment again! I wrote out some other notes that this made me think of and I will start working on that clipping positions video once I can get back outside or to the gym! Not sure if youtube allows it but maybe I can notify you once its posted.

[@gregood]

Parfait !

[@katsmokish388]

Subbed! We climb at the same crags. Different gyms though :)

[@LukeRockCimber]

Thanks, I appreciate the sub! We will likely cross paths once this quarantine is over!

[@sfcleary1]

Overhung clip - demonstrating backclipping!

[@LukeRockCimber]

?? Thanks for the comment but it is not backclipping - rope goes from my harness through the draw and to the belayer

[@jeffreysapanaro6379]

Very informative!

[@LukeRockCimber]

Glad you liked it!!

[@razzinijj5465]

Some wuestions from a beginner: the last clip, on a quickdraw low facing away, didn’t you put your finger inside the draw like said we couldn’t? It was hard to ser what you did. And the first clipping, with middle finger holding inside I saw another not recommend this because you can get the rope on top of your finger and dangerous if you fall.

[@LukeRockCimber]

For the first clip (your second question) I think this is generally considered one of the best clipping techniques. I use this almost every time I climb. If you are doing it right, I can’t imagine you would get the rope on top of your finger. Your thumb pinches the rope against your index finger, so it would be pretty hard to then put the rope on top of your own middle finger. In practice as you follow through the motion, after the gate is open, your middle finger moves off the draw. I would suggest hanging a quickdraw up somewhere at home and trying it, you will see it is very natural,

[@LukeRockCimber]

For your first question, if you are talking about the reach’s clip, my index goes behind the draw.

[@LukeRockCimber]

For the first question, if you are talking about the awkward clip, I am not, my index finger is curled pointing back down to my palm. Its a bit hard to explain and my wording about using my knuckle probably didn’t help. If you were to put your hand with your flat down on the table and imagine moving your finger from left to right, that is the motion I am making. However, I curl my index finger, giving myself a little more surface area to have against the rope and to keep my finger from going into the quickdraw.

[@LukeRockCimber]

Also - for the last technique - the awkward inside clip, If you are climbing and your rope has some weight, its almost easier to just grab the draw and pull it up to clip it into the rope. Imagine this is the opposite of clipping the rope into the draw. Hard to explain but if you try it (you would have to be tied in and leading) once you get to a draw that is right near your harness just pick the draw up and push it into your rope and its an easier technique than what I described.

[@razzinijj5465]

@@LukeRockCimber thank you very much for the answers and explanations! I have been climbing lead for approximally 6 months and loving it more and more. But I have really struggled with clipping. Your techniques make so much sense, your first clipping was my preffered, but then stopped after watching this other video! No I will start to train it again😊😊👍

[@sunnymammal]

Who put a thumbs down.. so rude ! Lol

[@LukeRockCimber]

😂 You can’t win them all 😔

[@jamiewarren7477]

Are you not back clipping some? Rope should come out the back not the front

[@LukeRockCimber]

Rope should always go from your harness, into the front of the gate and down behind and against the wall toward your belayer. Hopefully that makes sense. I should probably make a back clipping video one of these days!

[@justforfunmax7353]

Missing detailed views...

[@LukeRockCimber]

This comment keeps me up at night.... Did you see my weird zoomed in hand @ 1:16?

[@nigelmtb]

Back clipping, not Z clipping.

[@LukeRockCimber]

What time stamp? I think you are confused.

[@tabletrayon2562]

Pay attention to your 8 knot, it's not pulled tight and not crossed

[@LukeRockCimber]

I probably wasn’t too concerned given that I wasn’t climbing on it, but it looks fine to me. I have no idea what you mean by crossed. It’s not exactly the most well dressed knot but its 100% safe the way I have it.