Closed Loop Idle PID (Bosch 3 Wire Idle Valve)

In this video, I go through the settings of how to set up your Closed loop idle in you car. Please take your time, although a short video, this took me about 3 weeks to set up and test to the point I was satisfied with the results and sharing them with others.
Instagram: / cek_tuning

[@juliangodoy778]

Realmente no habia entendido como funcionaba el control por pwm con mi speeduino hasta que vi tu video, muchas gracias! Saludos desde Argentina

[@charleskozak4102]

Very informative. I've been researching PID controllers. Thought I'd build a simple cruise control module with a Nano. Not so simple... this is just more information for me. Thanks!

[@CEKGarage]

That is a great idea! Hope you share your progress.

[@vladimirpetrov9717]

You can look at it this way. The P component essentially is the initial correction that it's going to try and apply based on how far away from the setpoint it actually is, the I component starts tuning the correction based on how long it's taking to reach the desired setpoint(the longer it spends outside the threshold around the setpoint, the more correction it's going to apply to try and get there faster) and the D component essentially tells the controller, that it's getting near the target and it must start easing off, in order to not overshoot. That's my understanding at least. You could omit the I component entirely if you really wanted to, but then you would get "steady state error", since you need a high P value, so that the controller is responsive, but also a relatively high D value, so that it doesn't overshoot, but then they reach a certain equilibrium somewhere around the setpoint, but not quite on it. By adding the I component, you let it see, that it's getting steady state error and letting it correct based on the time spent in that steady state error. Actually many older automotive ECUs featured PD controllers, completely lacking the I component (many VW ecus from the 90s). Hope that helps.

[@DZGunner]

good info

[@mk1cortinatony395]

Thanks you this is great info, I never thought i could understand PID but I'm getting there. :)

[@DCWERX]

Man that was very informative

[@CEKGarage]

Thanks, it was a lot of testing over a few weeks. It was worth the time investment!

[@sierrasport16v]

Closed loop boost video next :)

[@Witsenburg]

Thanks for posting this, it's a long time ago but a good basis for my project. Is there a reason when looking for the right PWM frequency, you drove it around for a few days at each value? Can I just do it in one session, with a warmed up car, running through 5 or 6 values?

[@Crob56]

Thank you sir, have been left frustrated after an hour or so of watching tuner Studio videos of idle based on megasquirt. Being on speedy and everything being the same really helped me understand. Only question is how to find the Min and Max for the idle? Was it trial and error? I have it set similarly to you, and it runs, but I want to be able to tune it to the best possible. Thank you!

[@CEKGarage]

This is going to sound odd, but Speedy only operated the valve when the engine was cranking or running. So I hooked up a 3 foot hose ans rested on the window of the car. I would go in steps of ten to fine the spots when it looked closed and then open. It took about an hour as I would have to change the value and then restart the car each time. Let me know how it is going and if there is anything you need help on.

[@Crob56]

CEK Garage Thanks man, I will be attempting more idle tuning tomorrow. As it sits the issue is I’m not getting the car to respond at all to open loop IAC duty cycle changes. I have have it set at 5% or 70% and everything in between and it holds steady at 900-1000 rpm. I took it off to try and clean it but I’m not confident that anything is going to change. Other than that I have the throttle plate completely closed at idle and the IAC adjustment screw all the way tight. I’m not sure what I am missing but I’m thinking it’s something since the car idled great pre-Speedy.

[@CEKGarage]

Send me a data log and tune if you want me to take a look. Twonutsdiy at gmail. Have you checked for any gasket leaks around the intake?

[@mwpriem]

I have a ms3 and use stepper motor idle valve, its giving me endless issues and want to convert to pwm valve. What is the best pwm valve to use with megasquirt.

[@johonneng4105]

Hello. I need your advice. I’m switching my engine to EFI. I’m using mostly ford EFI parts. My question is how to connect my ford 2 wire PWM air idle controller. I believe I connect this air idle controller to pin #37 on ECU and negative 12V. Is that correct? Thank you

[@CEKGarage]

2 wire idle valves normally operate with a positive 12v source and a PWM negative 12v from the ECU. In your case, you are not describing a 12 positive source is your description. Pin 37 is a PWM negative from the ECU. So if you connect the other side of the idle valve to a positive 12v, you should be good to go (make sure it is fused, and only supplies power with the key)

[@johonneng4105]

@@CEKGarage Thank you for your answer. You’re the tiebreaker. I had one person say to connect one lead to negative 12v another person said to connect to 12v positive, the other lead to pin #37 on ECU. Great videos, again thank you for your help.

[@TheMykkH]

Almost a couple years since the video was made, are you still using 60hz with this IAC valve?

[@CEKGarage]

Yep