Making a Compressed Air Manifold and Installing an Air Gun

[@buckhanan363]

4 successful holes from a HFT drill bit is a win in my book.

[@eclsnowman]

Just a small recommendation from an old hand at pipe fitting. Only apply tape after the first thread at the end. Otherwise you have a lot higher likelihood of getting pipe tape shavings into your manifolds or downstream equipment.

[@garym1550]

Well said. This applies to anywhere you might use tape, whether in air, water, hydraulics, pneumatic controls etc.. Many companies/industries do not allow tape at all because of this foreign material introduction possibility during assembly or disassembly of a joint. A Teflon paste could be used instead of Teflon tape.

[@Clough42]

Yeah, I try pretty hard to get it onto the first thread, but not over the end of the fitting. I think the most likely problem in this case would be if some debris fouled my $4 pressure regulator.

[@eclsnowman]

@@Clough42 yeah, for a blow off gun it's less critical. But sending a chunk of tape into calibrated or precision instruments will lead to some unwanted troubleshooting hours. Best rule of thumb is to just skip the whole first thread to avoid the likelihood of downstream contamination. Love the videos BTW. Always fun to watch your attention to details and process.

[@costarich8029]

Really like the practical tradeoff approach of if it fails in 2 years, print it again in plastic. If it fails quickly then make it out of metal.

[@bacca-jt1th]

Hi James. Just a little tip when it comes to thread tape on brass or s/s fittings. ( Any smooth fittings.) I learnt early in my life as a Plumber that if you drag a hacksaw blade over the threads on the male fitting 90deg to the threads before applying the tape it will stop the tape winding down the threads. This will put the tape between the threads much better. I have never had a leaking fitting in 50 years of plumbing. Just a little tip. Regards from Australia.

[@chrisjh777]

Hi James, a tip. I use a small magnet to pin my drawings to the front of the mill head. That way, you have the drawing at eye level immediately in front of you and you don't have to turn away from the job.

[@Clough42]

Good idea.

[@janeinarwold2663]

Price of purchasing the tap handle = all the air manifolds you and all your friends is ever gonna need. Price of making one air manifold yourself = priceless! Now thats a true machinist :-)

[@Dwarfracer88]

Move the parallel? What do you mean? Every parallel needs a 1/4" dimple in the top.

[@SlamminGraham]

The teflon tape works very well but you only need 2 wraps. Our lab actually tested various lengths of tape when I was in graduate school and 2 wraps was optimal.

[@johnalexander2349]

I'm going to take a guess, and say that that depends on the tape thickness. There's quite a range.

[@UnreasonableSteve]

@@johnalexander2349 probably depends on tape thickness, tap size, tap/thread wear and quality...

[@Richard-gh1gv]

James, totally agree with you on the use of Teflon tape, despite what the ‘experts’ say. I use the gas fitting tape a lot, thicker, stronger and usually wider. I used to run a fuel delivery truck and we were always told never use the tape, always use the Teflon dope. Not a super high pressure, but it was a considerable pressure when the pump was in high gear and the nozzle slammed shut. Well, the dope worked great, for about a week. Then the dope would start getting washed away by the fuel, gas was faster than diesel. Switched to the tape, and never had another issue. Nozzles threaded on, sealed, and stayed that way until they wore out and need to be changed out.

[@Clough42]

The Maxline air system I just installed called for two wraps of tape to prevent galling, and dope to seal. So far, that combination has worked really well. This system has dozens of plugs and fittings, and I haven't had any issues. I imagine fuels and solvents are a very different matter.

[@seanwolfe9321]

Man! You are on fire with the Zings against the arm chair warriors on that one...GOOD FOR YOU!

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

Sounds like James is wondering To be, or not to be: that is the question Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous KZbin comments, or to take arms against a sea of troubling 'experts', and by opposing end them (whining)?

[@ShadonHKW]

A small amount of (anything slippery) works in cast iron, that dusty material clogs up the thread root, the lube just seems to help them migrate to the flutes.

[@AndyVickersNet]

Man, I did not know about section analysis - that's going to be life changing lol

[@cduemig1]

It’s quite useful identifying areas where you have excess material. Reducing weight or in 3D printing material and print time.

[@tbttfox]

18:13 Me: Shouts "Move the parallel" at the screen You: "Hey, let's move the parallel" Me: Heart attack averted

[@almostanengineer]

I think we all did that 😅

[@paulshermet535]

If I haven't said this before, I only use cheap silicone sealant for oil, water plumbing, air, exhaust manifolds (good for 1200 degrees), smear on gaskets so they come off in one piece if I use a gasket at all. Never leaks except with gasoline and harsh solvents. Teflon tape gets pushed off if the male thread starts tight. Cleans off parts with varsol or gas. Works good on bad threads and acts like a locktite that doesn't get hard and doesn't release from heat. Used it on connecting rod bolts in engines. Acts as alubricant until it dries. Don't need to wait for it to cure on air, oil etc because of the high viscosity. Not RTV silicone which very difficuld to get off and release. One more thing, inject silicone in crim connectors, before putting the wire in and crimp. No corrosion when salt water gets near them. Shrink tube lets water in an end if there are 2 wires coming out. Hatchtag: "not sponsored"🙂

[@misterfixit1952]

One really great accessory I have for my mill is a Dirt Devil vortex vacuum cleaner that I dumpster dove. It's an upright push vacuum and I removed all of the unused portions like the bottom carpet sweeper so it's as small as possible. I mounted it to the wall next to my mill with a long flexible hose with a couple of different ends. It removes most chips almost as good as an air gun and being a vortex vac, it doesn't clog up and lose suction when sucking small particles. Also, the vortex cools down the swarf so it doesn't melt into the plastic.

[@joopterwijn]

Ruff up the threats a bit with a (piece of hacksaw blad) before you wind the Teflon tape on the fitting. Makes the tape ‘stick’ to the threats. Maybe a polycarbonate plate on the back of the mill to catch the chips and not spread them to the sporting arena. The see through polycarbonate will keep the space open and light can pass. Added, after writing the comment I started reading the others,…. The first one below mine gave the same tip around the Teflon tape ( 😂 🤩 ) small world.

[@huevacho97]

i admire your ability to think of every detail!!!!!

[@heronvontremonia9975]

The lube should help with chip extraction, even if not really needed for the cutting action. I remember that, during my years of apprenticeship, one of the older guys was filling blind holes with thick grease for tapping. so that the stuff, squeezing out through the flutes, extracted all the chips. i am not 100% sure (it was in the 90s) but i think it was cast iron. informative and entertaining video, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@Clough42]

I "cleaned" a Bridgeport mill with compressed air once after a large cast iron milling job. Once. It made a horrific mess. The floor was black. The walls were black. The evidence of that day was visible in the shop for years.

[@heronvontremonia9975]

@@Clough42 i am sure, you never did that again :) by the way, i just finished building an induction furnace. its surprisingly easy. should be no problem for you to build one, if you want to try bronze casting. i am also sure that your's would be much more refined and beautiful :) there is a crude video if you want to take a look. i would love to hear what you think.

[@misterfixit1952]

You need to get some self-tapping drill bits. Also, in sheetmetal 10-32 and M5 are interchangeable, The threads are so close it's hard to tell them apart for threads shorter than about 1/2". I found this out while trying to mount my DRO with the wrong length screws it came with, at 3:00 in the morning. After digging around forever, I came up with the right size 10-32s that fit the M5s I'd already tapped into my mill.

[@cmk8477]

@ Clough42. Being a computer guy, I am surprised you don't have displays at all of your major work tools. Not DRO's but just inexpensive LCD displays right on the machine or close by that would save you from turning around to look at your paper drawings. I tend to set stuff on my drawings and make a mess on or loose them. At some point I am going to try to do the same. I have to find the shop first ;) I have spent the last several years flipping houses. Now it is time to go back to my other love. My shop. Keep up the great vids. I learn a little every time and pick up new ideas for projects.

[@chris-graham]

I use permatex thread sealant w/ ptfe. It looks like marshmallow fluff. Have to remind myself not to eat it. I was skeptical at first, but it's changed my life

[@patrickchivell8416]

A manifold with three outputs, I sense a power drawbar and a fog buster in the not so distant future...

[@waynetynan8615]

Dont get frustrated with comments saying you are doing something wrong, just continue to show what has worked for you.

[@stephanuhu963]

I enjoy your postings and envy your command of Fusion 360. Thank you for sharing so much with us. While it's aleays handy having compressed air available at the mill, for the mister, and blowing out blind holrs etc, I'd suggest a wet & dry vacuum routed through a centrifugal separator mounted on a bin, to clean up swarf. Keeps swarf from flying everuwhere, and is kinder to the DRO rails and elsewhere that you don't want swarf getting propelled into. Waiting for the snow to abate here in Nee Brunswick Cda, to get back in my shed!

[@mikehancock4624]

Very good work. Home depot has a universal coupler the accepts both industrial and ARO fittings. They also couple single handed. No holding the collar back to insert the plug.

[@TheTsunamijuan]

A number of my older (70's era) engine building and remachining books from Chrysler. Specify using a paste sealer on oil galley plugs. Instead of tapes. The reason they gave for that. Is that the pastes can break down better when/if ingested into the valve train. Compared to the tapes. Which to them presented a higher instance of binding than the pastes. Which I have found fascinating since coming upon. I am sure there are just as many opinions that go the other way. But some fun food for thought. For those of us that enjoy it.

[@flikflak24]

Totally agree with the Teflon tape on any sealing threads ( I do it my self as well) Why not use one of those metal huck things with two arms sticking out that they normally use in stores to hold small products on with the right spacing to hold your airgun or one of those self retracting lines hanging from the ceiling so it just hangs there easy to grab and when done just let go of it? Just throwing some ideas out there

[@danmartinrc]

I respect your dedication to the hobby. Why buy a $10 air manifold when you can buy a $200 tap wrench and make one yourself! 😀👍

[@Clough42]

Because I couldn't find one with mounting holes where I wanted them. But just between you and me, we both know I was going to buy that tap wrench eventually anyway. :)

[@tonyurquhart8278]

@@Clough42 & thats a REALLY nice looking Tap Wrench too! just sayin...

[@dinotom1]

Air is almost always your friend

[@Clough42]

Many machine manuals say to never clean a machine with air because it drives chips into places they shouldn't go. An experienced machinist told me once that the time saved cleaning a machine with air will far outweigh any shortening of the life of the machine over the long run.

[@MichaelLloyd]

Teflon is what we use in gas processing facilities. We use it on stainless steel tube fittings screwed into carbon steel or stainless steel on high pressure (1,000+ psig) connections. I could show you how to speed up the taping operation but your way works. I could do 5 to your one :) and I haven't done tubing work in 30 years. Once you tape a few thousand (probably more like 10 thousand) fittings you learn to do it quickly. But yeah... best choice when used right.

[@37yearsofanythingisenough39]

Unless you have indicated the tops of those Kurt vise jaws, laying a 123 block on top of them has set that workpiece at some angle. Obviously in this case it doesn’t matter, but in a criticality dimensioned part it could cause major problems. The bottoms of the jaws do not always rest on the vise bed, sometimes intentionally for burr clearance and etc.. This means the jaws are aligned by the 1/2-13 threads of the socket head cap screws. Best results are achieved by coming from an indicated vise bed.

[@reedbj06]

Excellent as always, thanks for sharing!

[@ArindursForge]

Something I've seen when using transfer punches is setting the first hole and then mounting the part to transfer the rest of the hole(s) to ensure a proper fit. Love your content. Thanks for sharing

[@Clough42]

Yup. I took the risk in the name of expedience. I used two punches so I didn't have to move my hand, and I had my fingertips in contact with the mill so I could feel if it shifted. Still a risk.

[@ArindursForge]

@@Clough42 glad it worked out! I've still yet to actually get into the machinists world so I'm not really experienced except in watching others

[@DIYToPen]

Would it be worth plugging the end of the drill holes with a 3d printed insert, to smooth the air flow maybe?

[@tod_with_one_d3055]

Nice save on the parallel.

[@jeremylastname873]

You can spray or brush your ABS part with a touch of solvent to cause the layers to better adhere to each other. This really helps to mitigate delamination.

[@JCS1069]

I use the Teflon tape in my shop air set up works great no issues.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello James, A good show tonight... the little air gun holder was a nice touch... Have a good weekend. Paul,,

[@chip-load]

A suggestion would be to test the connections for air leaks using soapy water. You will be surprised how much air can leak from a “silent” fitting. The most expensive machine in my shop to run is the air compressor! I have searched for (and used) quality disconnects and they all “bubble” leak. The quality of fittings has diminished in the past years. I use Milton T couplers and they are about the best quality I can find. However, a link or name of any high quality, leak-free, coupler would be appreciated. Sometimes there are different quality levels within a brand. THANK YOU for the time and effort you put into videos. Your F360 presentation is always excellent. Your pace, clarity, and insight is way above the average. As mentioned, tying F360 to the current CAM project has a synergy that is not duplicated most.

[@mohabatkhanmalak1161]

Nice shop projects to make work much easier, thanks for sharing.

[@vhoward1122]

Shower curtain behind the mill? To keep the mess off your other equipment back there.

[@37yearsofanythingisenough39]

A welding screen on its frame is even better

[@bexpi7100]

I was thinking a similar thing. Do a backdrop out of something fairly sturdy like plywood and 2x4, then it can double as a place to hang tools.

[@frigzy3748]

I saw really cool screens with tracks in hospitals. Those tracks seem to be very customizable, ie they can be set up around a mill in any shape.

[@mchiodox69]

Good little project....may have to build one for my lathe. Thanks

[@andrewbrimmer1797]

If you had drilled one of the outlets inline with your inlet and one outlet per side would you have avoided any deformation with holes meeting?

[@paulmanhart9755]

Good job. My only concern is combining brass and aluminum. Won’t you have problems with electrolysis?

[@Clough42]

In a marine environment, yes. In dry Idaho, not at all.

[@RobytheFlorentine]

even if I go to my shop every day I can't resist watching you again. Great channel, great projects. Regards from Florence, Italy

[@jimmichaels5058]

Nice Video My first thought was why not have 2 ports on each side. The holes would then be thru and no depth to worry about, item could be slightly shorter to ease drilling deep hole. and that hole could go thru and tap the top for Gauge. I have never heard of having too many outlets for whatever comes up in the future, Speaking of Outlets, the Electrical Quad box face up on the floor is in a great position to collect conductive chips from the mill.

[@MrPatdeeee]

Very Good James. Thanks for sharing it with us kind Sir. And handy!

[@vincei4252]

Seeing your hot water tank with a catch pan I'm thinking to myself I could have used one of those last week when my 50 gallon tank gave up the ghost and flooded part of the basement. At least the floor has such a shoddy job most of the water stayed by the furnaces and didn't go anywhere near the metal working machines. Thanks for the video. I'll be sure to pick up some A-9 too.

[@Clough42]

I believe it's code where I live. It's plumbed with a short piece of PVC so leaking water will end up on the concrete floor where it will be noticed instead of leaking into the floor deck and framing.

[@vincei4252]

@@Clough42 Hmm it's possible it may be code now where I am (CT) but the HVAC plumber guy didn't say anything of the sort to me. The tank was circa 1997 so it did have a long life and if I'm honest to myself I should have replaced it 10 years ago when one of the boilers failed. Oh well, you live and learn. The only thing damaged were the cardboard boxes for a couple of my telescopes - they weren't in there! Lucky break there. Thanks.

[@chrisj4570g]

Loved the air gun hook. That model would be nice on Thingiverse. 😎 As to the Teflon tape, I’m a fan. I use it professionally to seal fire sprinkler components without issue. Only recommendation I’d make is lose the crappy white tape, and buy Blue Monster tape, made by Mill-Rose. It’s thicker, and top quality stuff. More expensive than the white stuff, but one roll is likely a life supply for the home gamer.

[@davidparshay5281]

Great video. I wish my shop was that clean.

[@Clough42]

I probably spend more time off-camera cleaning than I do on-camera making a mess. :)

[@bradyoung6663]

Quick, easy, and will last a long time. I like it. Have you thought about adding some kind of anchor point for keeping the sideways force off of the hose's end, in case you ever trip on it? Like a simple tab with a C shaped void, just big enough for the hose to fit in, cut into it so that it's still easily removable.

[@godfreja]

Ignorant question: would it help to do another spot drill after breaking through the perpendicular hole?

[@Clough42]

I don't think so, because the corners of the big drill will still hit the internal geometry first, even with a spot in the bottom.

[@TheRetiredtech]

That Harbor Freight drill looked perfect. Equal chips cutting easily. Saw no need for better

[@Clough42]

@@TheRetiredtech if it were also straight, that would be a plus.

[@stephenjohnson6841]

Another great video. Thanks again James.

[@D20ShootingSports]

There's nothing wrong with teflon tape, and for dry applications, it works very well. My dad - who taught me about such things years and years ago - swears by hemp rope for wet applications (i.e. plumbing water pipes), and teflon tape for dry applications.

[@jothain]

As dairy machine mechanic I use teflon tape everywhere. It really doesn't matter if it's air or water in piping. Hemp rope is great for let's say plus 2" threads.

[@D20ShootingSports]

@@jothain I bow to your clearly superior knowledge. Thanks for sharing!

[@TomChame]

Fun project.......and very nice tap wrench. Thanks.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Good deal James. Nice job.

[@handyandy4x4]

YES No lube needed in cast . But I do find , when you break a tap it is a help when getting it out ...

[@grumpyoldman5368]

Have you tried Loctite 545 thread sealant? Works on air, water, oil, coolant, fuels and more. It works so good, I only use teflon tape on metal to plastic connections where 545 won't work.

[@jothain]

There's actually really many "industrial type" air connectors that look fairly similar. So if someone is wondering why new connectors don't work or leak,there you go 🙂 Most common here is Cejn320 style connectors when someone is referring these"industrial connectors". Some standards of them are actually interchangeable.

[@rpavlik1]

What?! The "standards" referred to by Harbor Freight are insufficiently precise to ensure consistent fit-up? Perish the thought! 😉. One of those things to remember if I ever buy parts that aren't cheap and color coded...

[@bkoholliston]

My cheap old Sears compressor has two identical "M" style quick connect females on it and I have hoses that will only go in one side reliably since it was new.

[@billlastname153]

When taping threads you should leave the first thread bare so when you tighten the fitting and the tape get cut on the first thread it doesn't end up in your tools

[@SIDFAILBA]

I love projects like this, thousands of dollars worth of tools to custom make a $20 part. But it's yours and you made it.

[@Runoratsu]

What I guess baffles me the most is that you can work in CAD with perspective view enabled! It almost breaks my brain just watching the parts “deform” while you move the view. 😅 I guess it all comes down to what you learned something with and what you’re used to… 😊

[@Runoratsu]

And your speedhandle commentary is SO FULL of innuendo, I just can’t…! 😆

[@robevans8555]

Oh we're getting a bit salty about the comment section lol, great work as always

[@NicholasMarshall]

Guys we need all to chip in and give James more fiber and less salt. Also does anyone know how much fiber aluminum chips contain?

[@LordPhobos6502]

Nonono, never use salt in a thread, tapered or otherwise. Too gritty.

[@danielkruger4305]

If you think the print will break at the dovetail, just drill a couple holes and put screws through the face into the dovetail.

[@JohannSwart_JWS]

Hi James. I can see you are really enjoying that manual mill. No more G-code just to drill a couple of holes. BTW - those ribbon style curtains used all over industry work wonders. A friend of mine used them to seperate his wood- and metal working shops, and they are great. Don't have any good ideas for those pesky chips under the shoes though. He just uses slip-on Crocs, which he takes off, and leaves in the metal shop. He's half Japanese, so that figures :-)

[@bkailua1224]

Nothing like a fly cutter or shell mill to throw chips all over the room, then track them everywhere when they are stuck to your shoes. :)

[@rgetso]

Awesome video and the sarcasm was spot on!

[@lightaces]

You can make normal teflon tape work, but my system is mostly put together with gas fitters tape - it's a slightly heavier version of the same thing, as I understand it, and, if you think about it, it makes sense, as compressed air is, you know, a gas. I find it much more consistent.

[@joshuahuman1]

You should make some removable wall that go behind the mill that way you keep the chips out of your gym and you could also put shelves for tool holders and tooling

[@scrout]

I'm blown aw............couldn't resist...ordered the vice handle and transfer punches, but just couldn't quite click that tap handle...!

[@bobweiram6321]

Coconut butter is a very good fluid for cutting aluminum.

[@HexenzirkelZuluhed]

After watching your back catalog for the past weeks I've almost caught up and am watching the most recent video short after its release. I wanted to say: 1. Great videos, I enjoy them quite a bit. Very educational yet entertaining format. 2. You've really shaped up. Looking good! Makes me jealous. 3. Thank you. While you're at fault for making me spend even more money on tools, I appreciate it. Keep those videos coming! Maybe sometime you can make something about how you clean up the mill/lathe after showering them in chips. Do you recycle the shavings, etc? Maybe it's not a great video-topic, but as someone planing to get a lathe and mill it is something that's almost never shown in the context of hobby machining.

[@Clough42]

Most hobby shops don't make enough chips to make recycling or scrapping worthwhile. Mine go in the circular file. If I did a lot of production work in exotic materials, maybe.

[@ttfranks952]

James, I use Teflon with air all the time . No worries , works great for me to. I saw you printed another idem on your 3D printer . How important is ABS. in your opinion over std. plastics and what kind of printer do you have . I am shopping and need some input. Thanks Tim

[@keitmitkeit]

you scared me when you started the mill without moving the parallel^^

[@quintenceelen6862]

jeez James, you're getting buff!

[@piccilos]

You're going to wish you started with a 1x1-1/2 block to space out all of the fittings away from the mill stand

[@Clough42]

As a matter of fact, it was a little close, so I 3D-printed a .100" thick spacer. Just right-clicked the back surface of the block in Fusion, extrude, .100", new component, and hit print.

[@edhibbard1030]

Clough42 - what a great solution to space the manifold off the mill. Up till now I have been successfully resisting the desire to purchase a 3D printer. However, your videos are not helping. Thanks for a great simple project.

[@gregfeneis609]

Nice work, James. I hope you make another blow gun installation video soon (no pressure)

[@samvoelkel2046]

Enjoyable, inspirational, as always. Thanks.

[@bobbystanley8580]

I request that you CNC mill an air hose hanger out of aluminum. Love your channel sir

[@Tupeutla]

so, now , you need to build a box or U walls at the back of the mill to not "chip" the gym

[@EricMBlog]

Even just a sheet of plexi, or a clear shower curtain, behind the mill would probably cut out 99% of the contamination.

[@Tupeutla]

@@EricMBlog the usual "white plastic cardboard foam sandwitch" used for booths in shows will work . need something oil proof, I think the other mill have that kind of material

[@EricMBlog]

@@Tupeutla yeah, don't disagree. Don't know how 'closed in' he wants it to be. Might not want to have big monolith that blocks views around the shop. But who knows.

[@carlwhite8225]

Nice project, Thanks.

[@briancleveland2082]

Where did you get that snazzy little container you keep your A9 in? I fished all over the web and did not see anything like it. It looked pretty handy.

[@Clough42]

They're called Spill Master cups. I got them from my local tool supplier. I think you can get them from McMaster-Carr as well. They call them "No-spill Jars"

[@hogan6216]

I like a vacuum better then blowing crap all over the shop.I have one at my Bridge port and one at my Lathe.I do have air at both but only use very seldom.

[@LabRatJason]

For some reason, I've always had good luck with Teflon tape for pneumatic stuff, but it's never worked well for hydraulic or water fittings. For those I use Locktite hydraulic dope, and normal plumbers pipe dope.

[@ghl3488]

Nice job sir, another job to keep me alive for another hour or so! Really enjoy your channel, you are never flustered but get through it and end up with really professional results. regards from Wales

[@Clough42]

I do a lot of planning and think this through before I start cutting metal. That helps a lot, but things still go wrong sometimes.

[@kathleenfoster9887]

Nice work

[@Paul-pl4vy]

James. Great content. Thank you.

[@dougslaughter8393]

Vacuum usage?

[@woodintheblood4104]

I think a vac is better than a blow gun. Your gonna have to vacuum the chips up anyway.

[@Rubbernecker]

Excellent video! Thanks for sharing.

[@kylebracht]

Hey James, what's your opinion about compressed air around digital read outs? I just install some magnetic dro's on my lathe and am nervous about blowing chips into the read head

[@Clough42]

The pedants on the Internet will tell you to never use compressed air around machines because it blows chips into bad places and causes premature wear. Real machinists working in a job shop will tell you to use compressed air because the billable time saved over the years will far outweigh the costs associated with wear to the machine.

[@prototype3a]

When tightening air fittings you need to say CLICK, when it is tight or it will leak.

[@zafardurrani9544]

Dear James, you are doing nice work, I like your efforts and hard work, Also ,I like this accurate and Excellent work, Thank you for providing me the best knowledge and wonderful video, Zafar from Quetta Pakistan

[@David-qd3ff]

And as always, excellent video.

[@nenno3878]

Well James it seems you got plenty of extra time to design stuff on Fusion 360 and 3D print instead of just using the existing RIGHT LIMIT stopper as a fastener for the carabiner below the main plate or just put an extra screw in the slot which otherwise stays unused. Kudos to you anyway for all the effort n learning every day. I hope you do not throw the chips away. Small crucible and torch can come handy to smalt the metals back to their pure form for recycling. Recycled Aluminum can be up to ten times cheaper than the production from ore.

[@cheyennesouza7960]

You need to wrap the treads with the leg hair from a silverback gorilla. It is the only thing that works 100% of the time and is extremely difficult to mess up.

[@lhbeau1]

I've never heard him say "Close enough" so much. What have you done with the real Clough??

[@hjjavaher]

@ 15:00 well done!! 😃😉

[@hypnolobster]

I've gotten surprisingly good results with the Harbor Freight deming bits. They need to be reground but.. surprisingly okay.

[@Clough42]

I have a 20-year-old $30 115-piece set. They're fine-ish for wood. The grinds are a little weird sometimes, but the biggest issue is that they're not straight. In person, that bit looked like it was wobbling all over the place. In the video, it wasn't easy to see.

[@chrisstephens6673]

I like the air gun hook but i would have put it hanging down rather than sideways, that way it wont get it the way of the table handle. As this is an old video i cant tell what you have done since.

[@harlech2]

What do I think? I think you need some lubricant somewhere in the quill. Very Squeak, much annoying! :)

[@Clough42]

It's the quill DRO. It'll go away soon.