CO2 vs. DIODE vs. FIBER on slate

Answering a few questions with some testing on slate coasters. Which machine does the best job?
I can't find Steve's slate video-- How about some tile-- • Can we laser engrave B...
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[@loribrooks6736]

You asked if we find this video (and videos similar to this) helpful. I can adamantly say - 'HELL YES!'. As a newbie this type of video helps with so many aspects of the learning curve. Thanks for all your time and energy in to making videos... I sure do appreciate them all!!

[@TheClackShack]

You're very welcome!

[@SteveTrueloveInspiredtechlife]

As alway, great content! Thanks for the testing and sharing.

[@TheClackShack]

My pleasure!

[@jimhinkle7245]

Thanks David!!! This answers my question!!!

[@TheClackShack]

Good deal

[@TheBench01]

Thanks for the test. It’s nice to be able to see how these machines compare on specific materials.

[@TheClackShack]

You bet!

[@chiefus3536]

These types of content are spot on. Love them. I got the same raised texture on the slate I tried due to having the settings way to hot at the start of my test grid.. Diode was my pick for slate too. Cheers.

[@TheClackShack]

Yea, I really thought the CO2 would be the winner… I was wrong

[@Northalabamabbqbulletsbigrigs]

Love these types of videos, as far as the raised texture i got some of that with the 20w d1pro theother night, posted it in the fb group page didnt mean too but i liked the results lol Keep up the good work and info man its appreciated

[@TheClackShack]

Thanks

[@fullcircleretrospective9913]

Thanks for the video, as always.

[@TheClackShack]

You bet

[@B.A.Bassangler]

Very helpful, thank you.

[@TheClackShack]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jimhamilton2680]

I sent Steve some sample of materials that he did some tests on his commarker b4 20w. I sent him a slate tile that was sprayed with tripled coat. It came out white which looks great.

[@TheClackShack]

Cool

[@elguapo1507]

Really interesting, not just the difference in settings but the advantages that the diode CAN have over the CO2 and fibre lasers. Thanks very much!

[@TheClackShack]

I was a little surprised by it

[@dubi01]

great info!

[@TheClackShack]

Thanks…

[@roryregina]

I was able to get a rough texture like that on my 10w diode (Phecda) . Newbie here so it was by accident. I ran a test pattern and at 10mm a sec I started getting that finish lightly from 40% power to much rougher from 60% power and up. Thanks for the video

[@TheClackShack]

It must be a reaction to the heat,, Thanks

[@MarklTucson]

Very interesting video with some good information. It would be interesting to understand the physics of the interaction of these 3 laser wavelengths with the material.

[@TheClackShack]

That’s deep science there…

[@DaBalloonGuy67]

I forgot to mention that I use inches instead of millimeters. I’ve been used to measuring in inches.

[@TheClackShack]

I am terrible with fractions, I use alot of MM on stuff.. lol

[@jankof76]

I spray my coaster with a oil based lacquer, let it dry for 30 min. then engrave my slate, the turn out beautifully and vibrant.

[@TheClackShack]

That you can do..

[@DavZell]

The sandpaper setting might be good for a slate sign or Santa plate or things like those.

[@TheClackShack]

I am sure I will find a need for it one day.

[@Graeme758]

I just have a co2 but was looking for a whiter finish on slate, looks like I make have to get a diode and live with the slower speed. But as I'm usually just doing sets of 4 or 6 it's not a major issue. Not sure how small your Monport is, but I can easily get 6 standard coasters in my no name k40.

[@TheClackShack]

Mine is a monport M40

[@tristanty6837]

Great Video! I had a question though. Ive been trying to sell slate coasters but I find that almost half of the ones I buy to engrave are uneven, causing them to wobble drastically on the table. Do you have this same problem and if so do you still sell them or just consider them throw aways?

[@TheClackShack]

If they have the feet on the back, they should be level. Never has that issue

[@DaBalloonGuy67]

I have a MonPort 40 as well and I’m not sure of the entire engraving area. I need to do a mirror image to get it to engrave or figure out how to get it to engrave without mirroring. Also I need to figure out the exact engraving area so I know where to put items for engraving.

[@TheClackShack]

Make sure your origin is set to back left corner. If the origin doesn't match the home location, it will flip the burn.

[@VinnysProjects]

Just did a bunch of coasters on my fiber the other nite. 600 mm/s, 40% power, 40 kHz. They came out brighter and clearer (crisper) than what your diode did, mine is a 30 watt MOPA. It takes a lot of experimentation to get the settings all dialed in. BTW, don't run that CO2 at 100% too much, the tube won't last long.

[@TheClackShack]

My CO2 is software regulated to 70 percent on the backend to avoid being able to run it at 100% but thanks. Also, A MOPA should do a better job than my RACUS fiber or a 20 watt diode, I would imagine.

[@terryvaughan8095]

I sit here in France (I’m Scottish not French) and enjoy your videos especially now that I have a GWeike G2 fibre coming soon to add to my laser family. This video shows a test on slate that I’ll do with my CO2, Diode and eventually the fibre and it will be fun to compare them to your results. What makes me wonder though is your use of 100% power on so many tasks, my understanding is that the life, particularly of a CO2 tube, will be seriously reduced using 100% power. Do you worry about that? Have you had any issues from using 100% on your CO2 or diode lasers. Keep up the videos, I love them and we’re all learning from each other so thanks. Terry

[@TheClackShack]

My CO2 is limited in lightburn to 75 percent, what you see in lightburn is 100 percent of 75 percent. The other machines will suffer mechanical wear before the diodes go out. Just my opinion. Time is money and less time equals more money.

[@terryvaughan8095]

@@TheClackShack Now that’s sneaky, so you dial in 100% but Lightburn restricts your actual output to 75%. Is that something that you set or is that a Lightburn thing? As to your time is money comment, I understand. You’re in business where I’m retired and a hobbyist so making the tube last at the cost of a little extra time makes sense for me but I can see why it’s not for you. Thanks for explaining.

[@TheClackShack]

@@terryvaughan8095 yes, in the settings in lightburn you can set the S value to limit the machine to a portion of its output. Normally , S=1000 will be the setting but if set to S=750, if basically knocks it down to 75 percent.

[@ALXSHARPEN]

Do you bother with any treatments on the slate before or after? I have tried some matte finish that I paint on but if I don't let it fully dry it can ruin the piece. I have two lasers an S1 from your recommendation with the 40 W and the 2W IR. So far I love it. I also have a Laser Pecker 4, I have noticed that all slate seems to be a little different. Settings that may give me a great coaster may not have the same results on a large cheese board slate from a different company. So I have been accepting that it's best to make sure you test each new supply and know that one piece will be for testing. I wish I could find a treatment that is perfect. I also tried linseed oil and white spirts mix 50/50 and that works good but you need to really be sure it's fully dry before lasering it . I am wondering if I should just laser them and be done or do the need protection from stains and drinks. Doing it after always seems to dull the image but lasering it off make me think what's the point other than making the black coaster a little more black. Maybe using a thinner mix of matte finish on the lasered area would be an option

[@TheClackShack]

If I use anything, just rattle can poly. Before or after depending on contrast I want.

[@ALXSHARPEN]

Thanks love your channel it's been very helpful since I added lasers to my sharpening business@@TheClackShack

[@ALXSHARPEN]

I did a video on my riser base install and I mentioned your channel at 7:44 hope to do my fire suppression today if i can get all my sharpening jobs done. I have to show you something I did for the moving crumb tray problem thats been working well as a fix I have to shoot that video too @@TheClackShack

[@ericeinsmann5559]

David, for slate coasters.. They must be manufactured (I'm sure they all are) . I did some test engraving on to natural slate on my 10w diode. It cut grooves in to the slate for the letters. Very different look than one of the manufactured coaster.

[@TheClackShack]

Possibly,

[@JustiaFiat]

Not true. I only engrave hand broken old roofing slate without Problems.

[@TheClackShack]

@@JustiaFiat What part is not true? My tests were completely true.

[@alb673]

What's the time difference between the diode and co2? Co2 should be a lot faster and you can make more.

[@TheClackShack]

The M40 is not faster than my diodes. Other CO2s may be.

[@FredSchmitthammer]

How do you prepare the slate?

[@TheClackShack]

Make sure it’s square. There are things you can do but I have never had a need.

[@FredSchmitthammer]

@@TheClackShack thank you. Some sand the face of the slate. I don't like that look. I trust your experience, so I asked. I really appreciate your content.

[@TheClackShack]

@@FredSchmitthammer I do not like the sanded look.

[@FredSchmitthammer]

@@TheClackShack you and I are the same.