COMEBACK? Honda Stuck in PARK!

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

You're still a hero if you explain to the customer that the bad switch started working again and you eliminated the chance of that happening again. Good repair and thanks for doing the right thing and eating the cost.

[@dosgos]

The follow-ups may be frustrating but the videos are among the most interesting!

[@hikerJohn]

I was thinking the same thing.

[@randymarion2466]

What is the world coming to when Ivan is watching his own videos to make a repair!

[@pekkaylonen9611]

You need always document your 'hacks' for future reference.

[@rickn8or]

He gets his info from the experts.

[@TheOmegaman69]

I would like to make a few comments, if I could. These are strictly my opinion and not any criticism whatsoever. Just observations provided based only on the information I have available. First, just a couple of comments on PCM/ECM outputs and connections; 1) Connecting two (2) outputs together is not a good idea in general, if they are driven by different inputs, or if one is not sure both are open-collector outputs. This is what was found in this diagnostics (second video). Once the PCM output to the Shift Lock Solenoid (PCM, PIN E2) started working (comment on that a little later), which has the Brake Pedal Position Switch (PCM, Pin E22) and the TP Sensor (PCM, Pin A29) inputs that the Transmission Range Switch does not. This is what caused the new issue. Note, these in this case are open-collector outputs. 2) Whenever making a jumper to a different output, such as this example, the number of and size of the loads should be considered. In this example, the load of the Shift Lock Solenoid was added to the Transmission Range Switch. The SLS probably has a load that is 2, 3, or more times as large as the two (2) loads already on the Transmission Range Switch (MICU, Pin P16 and PCM, Pin D6, both inputs). One of these (probably PCM, Pin D6) has a pull-up resistor to +12V in the range of, probably, 1K - 40K. These inputs, resistor/resistors, and now the Shift Lock Solenoid are the loads on the Transmission Range Switch. Note: In this case I do not think the load is an issue as the total load is likely less than 1 Amp, and probably much less than that since the PCM (Pin E2) was driving the largest load, the Shift Lock Solenoid. However, the load on an output of any Computer Module (or other driver) should be checked if it is changed. Since this is driven by a simple switch, I assume the contacts in this switch (Transmission Range Switch) would not have an issue driving this added load. As to a possible reason the PCM output to the Shift Lock Solenoid (PCM, Pin E2) started working, I am more convinced than before (please see my comments on first video, if interested), that the TP Sensor is likely the root cause of the original issue. First thing is, you cannot trust the scanner. It shows that the TP Sensor (likely the Relative TP, a learned value) shows 4.54 degrees (or something like that) and 9.80% depressed. In the first video I commented that this should be 0%, was a learned value, and a ECM (PCM) reset and idle relearn might get it down to 0% (or close to it). Since this is a learned value, driving the car for 2 months would almost certainly give the PCM time to relearn this value and thus the Shift Lock Solenoid to start working again. This would be pretty close to the same as resetting the ECM (PCM) and doing a idle relearn. This could explain why it started working again. Just a possibility. As to why the same TP Sensor reading now, as in the first video, is 9.80%, I cannot say except that the TP Sensor value could be in the threshold area, or what is called the undefined area. As a very short explanation of what I mean, the PCM has to have some threshold, say as an example 5 degrees or 10% where it determines if the Accelerator Pedal is (TP Sensor relative value in this case) pressed or not pressed. If the value is less than 5 degrees or 10% (in this example), the PCM considers the pedal not pressed, If above this value the PCM considers the pedal is pressed. What happens though if the TP Sensor value is at, or very close to 5 degrees or 10%? The PCM does not know if the Accelerator Pedal is depressed or not depressed. There is always a +/- involved here to. The Threshold might be 5 degrees or 10% +/- 5%, as an example. That would mean IF the TP Sensor is between 4.75 to 5.25 degrees or 9.5% to 10.5% the PCM will not know if the Accelerator Pedal (TP Sensor) is depressed or not depressed, and it's Shift Lock Solenoid output may be driven low or not driven (if not driven it would be high due to internal pull-up, this is called an open-collector output). This is the Undefined area. The scanner just may not have the granularity to be able to read the value as accurately, with the resolution, of the PCM. I hope this is making sense to someone. Again, this is a very short explanation (attempted explanation) of what might be going on here. Some suggestions to possibly consider; it is my opinion that if this car ever comes back, one might consider doing one (1) or more of the following; 1) A relatively fast way to check this would be to either reconnect the original connection (PCM, Pin E2 to Shift Lock Solenoid), disconnecting the jumper wire, OR connect a test light, meter, or scope to the unconnected wire (PCM, Pin E2). Then, since the TP Sensor in the second video we saw went to 0% (or maybe 1.5%, or thereabouts) when unplugged, this PCM output could be tested 10-15 times with the TP Sensor disconnected and with it connected (i.e. with TP Sensor close to 0% and with it close to 10%). Here, we would be looking for the PCM output working reliably with the TP Sensor disconnected and working either intermittently or not at all with the TP Sensor connected. This idea here is to get the TP Sensor to 0% (or close to it), and see if it affects the PCM Shift Lock Solenoid output as compared to when it is 9.80% (according to the scanner). Results here may not be definitive, and first method here would be best as the PCM output would have it's normal load on it. Also, there maybe some other way to test this as unplugging the TP Sensor would likely generate a code and could mess with the results, making them unhelpful. 2) This is a more time consuming way to test this, but would likely also provide a somewhat more definitive result. First, remove jumper and reconnect everything to factory connection. Second, put a scope probe on three (3) signals, PCM, Pins E2, A29, and E22. These are the Shift Lock Solenoid PCM output, the TP Sensor & Brake Pedal Position Switch inputs. Then the Shift Lock Solenoid can be tested with and without the TP Sensor connected as in number 1 above, or before and after a PCM reset and idle relearn is done. 3 The last suggestion would be to remove jumper and reconnect to factory connections. Then test it 10-15 times or so. Then do a ECM (PCM) reset and a idle relearn procedure, then retest and compare results. Finally, it is my opinion (based on information available), that there is nothing wrong with the PCM/ECM. It looks very likely to me that the root cause of the original problem could be the TP Sensor input to the PCM (Pin A29). Resetting the PCM/ECM and doing a idle relearn might fix the issue, with the wiring back to factoring connections. Also, cleaning the throttle body and then doing the reset and idle relearn (if resetting and idle relearn alone doesn't work), might work. Getting the TP Sensor down closer to 0 degrees (0%), in my opinion, could very well fix the original issue, and what these suggestions would be attempting to do. Of course I could be completely wrong. Please note that I understand that time is money and not doing more work than is necessary is one of the goals of running a business. These suggestions and comments are solely my opinion and, I should say, based partly on curiosity. Both videos are very good and informational. We know there is a lot of work to make these videos and they are greatly appreciated. I did, in addition to watching this video, go back and re-watch the first video before making these comments. Thank you for making all the videos you make.

[@kastooMcFry]

I agree. It would be silly to replace the ECM just to make sure that interlock part of the system works like intended. Your hack works just as well. You saved your customer a bunch of money. Good job.

[@PhillipBailey]

I love how you think outside the box. Not many techs know how to do this. I'm like you trying to save my customer some cash if I can. Don't you just love Honda flow charts!

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

"What do you want me to do? *CHOP IT OFF?!"* *Eric O* *SMA*

[@aidanh4550]

Well done! A dealer would’ve w quoted a new transmission for sure

[@robtheslob3940]

and a PCM

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

And, what else when that didn't fix it?!

[@josephneal4858]

no way people have scan tools nowadays ....,.. Cant do that anymore!!!!!

[@robtheslob3940]

@@josephneal4858 You also have to have the knowledge to understand what the scan tool is telling you so the average joe would get burnt. But if you played "dumb' and knew that the mechanic was a scammer there is not much you could do about it other than stay away from him

[@braddofner]

What a cool repair. You really do get inventive! What a great way to save a customer some money! Also, apparently you have done so many repair videos you are now using your own videos on KZbin as a repair library? Amazing!

[@Parknest]

Yet another NPR repair. Good on you Ivan for eating up this one. A small price to pay for a repeat customer and the goodwill associated with it.

[@misterhandy5121]

A TRUE MECHANIC !!!!!! HONEST AND FAIR, BEST OF ALL A TRUE EXPERT AUTO DIAGNOSTICIAN !

[@leoashrae4199]

That was an impressive bit of diagnostic logic. Well done! As soon as I'd verified the bad driver, I would have been off to Harry's (U-Pullit) for a new ECU. But, for that vehicle, in those same circumstances, you made the best call for the customer.

[@Dirtyharry70585]

Get her to sign off on that fix…. CYA

[@hooptierescue2540]

oftentimes these days a junkyard ECU isn't a simple swap due to running changes, theft deterrent integration, relearns, etc... They can be a real can-o-worms

[@leoashrae4199]

@@hooptierescue2540 Become a Honda Service Express subscriber, pay your $300 annual software subscription, and have a Honda-compliant J-Box on your laptop... it's not that big a deal for a Full Service Independent Repair Shop. Or, just bring your good serviceable replacement PCM to your local full-service independent and we'll re-flash it with the correct software and all the updates for you (for a very reasonable fee). I suppose you could even have your dealer do it (for an unreasonable fee)... if you had to. Point is, Honda, Toyota, Ford, and GM are all pretty good in providing us with the software and support. Now, FCA, Nissan, and any of the Europeans on the other hand... your point is much more applicable.

[@hooptierescue2540]

@@leoashrae4199 yes, last time I ran into that was with Chrysler. The dealer wouldn't even try reflashing with a junkyard PCM so you can add $700 (if they can even get it) to the price. Supposedly plug and play online options might have been available for a couple hundred (but those probably had the VTD completely disabled). In all cases, far better to avoid changing a module if you can help it. If they're not potted too bad I always try and at least closely inspect them for obvious flaws and lacking that, reflow them in a oven, before just blindly swapping them out. The devil you know is oftentimes better than the devil you don't know.

[@averyalexander2303]

And then you would be off to Honda to pay them to program it to the immobilizer and key so you could start it.

[@rcook1276]

Great original fix and great follow up repair. Who would have guessed the circuit would start working again.

[@classicwefi]

I'm betting the shift interlock circuit in the ecm has a cracked solder joint that with the summer heat and vibration is now making contact.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

It would be more intermittent then I would think

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

How about temperature? Was the weather different during the previous repair?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

@@dans_Learning_Curve it lasted two hot months before this happened...

[@robtheslob3940]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I had a 1994 Ford Probe and the distributor would cut out because the distributor printed circuit board had two positions: hot (warped) - break signal, and not hot - connect signal line - PCB straight. The kind of problem to drive you to a mental home.

[@fumthings]

maybe that wire that Ivan connected, drove the tin whiskers in the opposite direction inside the ecm and removed the original fault. just call it intermittent and unreliable and cut it off.

[@anthonysova7117]

Love hearing Everyone welcome back to Pine Hollow just beautiful CHEERS

[@mmichaeldonavon]

Ivan, I "loved the chase." I'm a wiring diagram kind of guy myself. A 100 hears ago, :-) when I first started working Aircraft electronics, I looked at a "fold out pages wiring diagram" and my eyes crossed. :-) Certainly was intimidating, but you learn to "narrow your vision." Thanks,

[@_RiseAgainst]

Watching your own video within a video? I'm getting inception vibes.

[@robtheslob3940]

to be watched later ... freaky

[@natal777]

It is amazing how much you know about the electronics of these cars ! In the good old days if you had fuel and air and a spark the engine would run not anymore thats for sure

[@senanfoutchedjev2401]

The computer for sure it will be expensive and no follow up charge. You are the Man. Thanks. I Always enjoy fully your videos. I am amazed by your logic, step by step process and iron patience. Fantastic.

[@htownblue11]

General Ivan wins the battle yet again without a Parts Cannon firing. Bravo sir, bravo.

[@timm7885]

I personally like it.. but how do you explain to a non mechanical person that you snipped a wire and were good!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

You have to have good people skills lol. I explained it to a 75 year old lady 😅

[@mikefoehr235]

This Honda had a vasectomy

[@billziegmond4943]

I love how Ivan shows us how to use logic and schematic to solve the problem. I use that same method in computer diagnostics in my job as a computer tech. A lot of guys just reload the O.S>. Then complains when the problem comes back.

[@sewing1243]

1) "No good deed goes unpunished" 2) If you modify it you own it (forever) and last, but not least... "If it can go wrong it will" (Murphy's Law).

[@ryanravencaller]

Don’t forget about coles law!

[@richardcranium5839]

a russian and an irishman work on a japanese car...............

[@Dirtyharry70585]

@@richardcranium5839 That Honda was built in Marysville Ohio by Ohioans with parts made in Ohio

[@k1n2g4]

A japenese brand car, american build that is called a piece of crap reminds my of my refrigirator. Korean brand. Build in Italy died within a year. Got replaced twice under warranty. All did the same. In the end we managed to find one made in Korea and shipped to Europe. Still working after 10 years 😁

[@febbral]

Ivan, excellent video, I worked in a calibration lab, and remember working on HP counters and finding a bad transistor, part replaced and fixed problem, discussed problem with HP field service tech afterwards, he mentioned that HP would use a part made to their specs and work in many other pieces of electronics, but the off the shelf part number may or may not work in their equipment because their spec requirements.

[@JD-iu3vi]

Looks like a classic cracked solder joint. Circuit board manufacturers try to put as little solder on a joint as possible which saves them money but causes a weaker connection.

[@ferrumignis]

I agree it's very likely a cracked solder joint, but long term stress, thermal cycling and vibration can cause solder to crack irrespective of quantity. I've repaired a bunch of Smart ForTwo BCMs with solder cracks on a connector that is exposed to stress from the cable harness, they have plenty of solder from the factory, and other similar connectors on the board don't crack.

[@JD-iu3vi]

@@ferrumignis I agree. I have seen solder tinned wires break from stress too. Even the thin solder joints hold unless there is vibration which is why it would seem to be a good idea to make those for automobiles more robust. But they have to save money somewhere to make the profits for the shareholder.

[@scroberts9316]

Cool and unique diagnosis + repair. Customer may want to have you replace that computer at some point with a rebuilt or junkyard one, in case other issues decide to pop up. Great job btw!

[@AP9311]

More Russian hacks, lol. Replacing the ecm is not a option for customer. Just snip that wire! All fixed! Good video! Thumbs up!

[@dennisbailey4296]

Great work figuring out that the driver was interacting with the brake pedal switch. Good quick fix but yet I still think you deserve something you've been very very very thorough great work. All the best from Canada

[@on-site4094]

NPR another great repair by the mechanical whisperer 👍

[@johnclamshellsp1969]

Back in 1992, the BTS system on a GM was a simple solonoid connected to the brake light switch. Push the brake pedal, and you can take car out of park. Was just a nice simple safety feature. Very dependable and built in bypass if failed. The automakers have taken this way to far.

[@michaelslee4336]

OHR only hacks required Good work Ivan.

[@kdmq]

My view of every flowchart: 1) Visually inspect wires for obvious damage, if none go to step 2 2) Replace PCM

[@captainmorgan6035]

Thought something weird and strange might happen from 1st vid. Woulda been ok if the damn thing stayed broke but she decided to fix herself. I believe i stated i would have just removed the solenoid or the actual mechanical locking mechanism. Its just an whoops solenoid anyway. Only put there for people who cant drive. Just like caution hot on your cup a coffee or do not eat packet in your beef jerky. I think itll be ok now but again the added current elsewhere could be a problem. Only time will tell. Keep those doggies rolling. Thanks for your time and knowledge

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

Nice logic Ivan as you figured why it was acting up after first repair. Also props for not charging customer again. It is unfortunate for your pocket book, but the right thing to do. You will sleep good knowing you did the right thing. So many shops would have talked themselves into getting more money! The next one like this you will have some experience as to the possibility that the driver could come back to life, so eliminate it from the equation, just in case.

[@SawmillerSmith]

Another job well done by the Russian hacker 👍

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

;)

[@daakrolb]

I heard he used the diagnostic tool to hack into the dominion servers too. Actually if he had, I have a feeling biden would not have “won.”

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

@@daakrolb yeah they pulled out all the stops to "win" that one 😅

[@patricktennant1585]

Wouldn't that be russian collusion 🤪

[@bas2876]

Good job Ivan, well diagnosed

[@dfields9511]

cool, what about some electrical tape on the cut wire

[@Spector_NS5_RD]

Now that the interlock circuit is working, can the PCM throw a code for the yel/blk wire you cut (now that the pin is floating)? Would it hurt to splice in a resistor of the same ohms as the interlock solenoid and tie it to GND, to fool the PCM?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Well it didn't throw a code when it was broken the first time, so likely not a "monitored" circuit :)

[@alasdairmunro1953]

Did you tape it off or cut it shorter? The Clapham rail crash was caused by a wire, cut during signalling work and not taped or tied back, moving back into its original position and making contact again.

[@robbflynn4325]

My son has the same exact car with 170,000 miles. If I encounter any electrical gremlins I'll be sure to drive the hour or so north to see you, I'm quite close, in Bedford County.

[@josephtober9417]

Nice repair on a comeback. Excellent for not charging. But i am a little bummed there was no bonus footage. 😁

[@adamtrombino106]

I'm surprised it wasn't a range sensor, as they are a high failure prone part. My Acura dealer has them on backorder. Anyhow, great vid. I've NEVER seen a PCM driver come back to life before!

[@tiredoldmechanic1791]

There are often unintended consequences for any changes made.

[@robtheslob3940]

Go back to bed

[@johnkaplanian]

Dear Ivan, it seems that the driver is only a summer vibrant guy who like to stay idle in cold Looool. Take Care.

[@midwestfarm757]

As I pick up more and auction cars, I have noticed a lot of PCM issues have been caused by a mechanical issue like a sensor that causes PCM to not read. I think part cannon types throw in a new computer too quickly. My last auction car was a $20 (Used OEM) Mass air flow sensor that caused similar issues.

[@georgebell3964]

In the dealership you get a half hour Diagnostic time for any wiring problem. And those flow charts would be like chasing your tail.

[@n9wox]

Usually the fix is to reconnect a cut wire. Now the fix is to cut a wire.

[@Micko350]

12:12 That my friend is the Sour Taste of 'Eating a Comeback' even though we tried to save the Customer Money initially, it comes back to bite us in the butt!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Actually this was a cool comeback because it was no parts required again haha

[@robtheslob3940]

The reenergization of a previously working circuit is enough to drive you to drink and move into a loony bin home and mumble "it's gotta be the Park switch"

[@nicoxis]

It would be interesting to know what amount of easy, normal or hard diagnostics of the total volume of repairs you make

[@kenpressley8420]

I am curious how these mods will affect the sale of the car should she decide to get rid of it? If I'm buying a used car, I want everything to work properly and not having to depress the brake pedal to shift from P would cause a concern to me. Maybe I'm the only one with this concern.

[@The_Redkween]

This is one I actually disagree with. Great diagnostics but would have demanded a replacement Module instead of cutting wire. So cheap for this vintage. The money you lost on the comeback would have made up for the cost of the module.

[@jack8356]

My 2010 accord D was flashing when i was getting off the highway. I dont know why but when it turned it the car off and turned it back on it stopped. I never understood why it wqs flashing but i never saw it come back with the 2 years i had it.

[@ronaldskramstad4368]

I would've just replaced the pcm. I know it's good snapper no mods to worry about. = no comeback

[@MrUGA2010]

the best generation of Accord 2003-2007; it lasts forever with a little maintenance!

[@steveboone5450]

Ivan, as I mentioned on your other video, I think the root cause was that the interlock was intentionally not being released by the ECM because it interpreted that the throttle was being depressed based on the TPS signal and its "learned" interpretation. As I mentioned, a better fix would have been to try relearning/reseting the throttle body to get the ECM to "understand" where the TPS signal is under normal idle conditions (this could have been affected by carbon build-up, cleaning, throttle body replacement, TPS replacement, etc.). If you don't have the throttle body reset/relearn tool from Honda, I mentioned this procedure for doing it manually without the tool: === 1) Turn the ignition key to the RUN position for 2-seconds. Do not start the engine. 2) Start the engine and run it at 3,000 RPM until the radiator fans come on. 3) Then let the ending idle for five minutes with no loads (lights, heated seats, rear defogger, blower motor, radio, etc OFF) 4) After five minutes, shut off the engine. === I suspect that after your original wiring mods, the customer has inadvertently run this procedure and the throttle body has been relearned (so that the ECM now "understands" the normal idle position and "knows" that the driver is *not* depressing the accelerator pedal (so it energizes the solenoid and allows a shift out of park, as it should). So I think the driver is now working properly now that it has been "reset" (inadvertently by the customer). After all, you are now seeing the driver pull the circuit low when the brake is depressed (as it should be). Given the critical safety aspect of this interlock (not allowing inadvertent shifts out of park -- pretty dangerous), I would recommend that you restore the circuit to its original form and strongly suspect it will now work as intended. It would still be one of you famous "no parts required" fixes. Thanks for all your great diagnostic videos -- I always learn something useful from watching!

[@MrSamPhoenix]

Fantastic explanation

[@neilmurphy845]

Could it be a switch that is broken and not telling the ECU that it's in park or a faulty accelerator pedal switch

[@fredmalito9869]

Why not remove the solenoid completely and be done with it? Liability? Does the PCM know if the solenoid is MIA?

[@Paul-gw6ow]

NOW THAT WAS A DEEP MYSTERY . PINPOINT DIAG

[@paulstaf]

I would have put a diode in there instead of cutting it so it is always hot on the one side, but the ECM can't see it.

[@inothome]

I initially thought that too, but the problem is the PNP input is looking for a ground and the interlock output is supplying a ground. There would be no way to use a diode to stop one from effecting the other in this case. If both were outputs or both inputs a diode would work. Unless you have a way I can't think of?

[@poq600]

Hi Ivan. I may be wrong but I think you cut the wire to close to the connector. A future fix ,if customer wanted to,, would be more tedious on that wire. Just an observation. Thanks again for flushing the flowchart down the toilet. Sometimes they make a dumb diyer dummer. Love ya vids

[@laldogpaul568]

Hi, just a suggestion,is the PCM unable to pull an earth down for the shift lock solenoid due to a poor PCM earth point??? The fact in was OK for a few months then came back to operating could be a bad earth point remaking???

[@yamaha37776]

I’ve been burnt on this! I’m not sure on TP% but I know for a fact on a snap on it shows voltage, and if the TP voltage is above 0.75 volts Honda will not shift out of park. Voltage on the TPS should be 0.50, it has an IAC to control idle so throttle plate should show it’s closed. As the TPS worsens the car will have systems of harsh shifting. Great video!!! Just wanted to share my 2 cents, I don’t think you have a computer problem, I’d think it’s a tps input problem but I don’t know what 0.50 volts transfers to percentage.

[@davidclapham1066]

Great diagnostics and good of you to take the hit. I have absolutely no idea why you got some thumbs down, some folks are just harder to understand than BMW wiring systems :-)

[@robertbrandywine]

They don't like him a) not finding the root cause of the problem, and b) bypassing a safety feature.

[@hooptierescue2540]

I'm thinking the throttle plate needed cleaning cuz the carbon and varnish is building up enough to prevent it from closing all the way and that is making the PCM think that the driver's foot isn't all the way off the throttle which was causing it to stop them from dropping it into gear at a potentially too high power level.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Throttle plate closes to a throttle stop, TPS value is consistent.

[@hooptierescue2540]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics even though it is consistent now, maybe something changed about the sensor (as the value seemed a little high to me being that it seems most are between 1 and 4% ). Was there a re-learn function? If so, it would be interesting to see if that fixes it (if you ever go out on that car for anything again). Not being critical of your work, Ivan. Just curious in case I ever run into such a thing

[@ghettsumm7949]

In my limited experience, whenever a circuit just magically starts functioning properly. It has a loose connection somewhere. Try the jiggle test in the harness and connectors.

[@PaulHigginbothamSr]

So Ivanivanovitch never removed the splice he had put in because he did not know of if the driver would stop working again. His final solution was to make the solonoid open the shifter with the key on. I can see why this is not done because my brother's granddaughter shifted his pickup to neutral rolling over a steep hill destroying the pickup and almost taking her life.

[@mikefoehr235]

A set of side cutters solved a problem...amazing.

[@ryanravencaller]

Transmission fluid change time?

[@2packs4sure]

I guess you can consider it a learning experience but I feel you should charge for that ,, you had no way of knowing that it would heal itself and cause problems...

[@jordydereus]

Hi ivan! Do you like your Thinktool? I am thinking of buying. Does it work wel on European cars? Let me know.

[@DaddyBeanDaddyBean]

Great work as always.

[@howardsen666]

Is it high ideling? Maybe that cause the problem?

[@JVerschueren]

Errr.... is it really a comeback when the car basically fixed itself, thereby making the earlier fix a problem?

[@michaelweatherhead9470]

Great job Ivan

[@yomomma9070]

Crazy circuit flow. Usually the solenoid releases based on input from brake switch. Is it possible the TB is a little dirty, holding the butterfly open some? Seems I remember the TPS is not serviceable on a Honda, they want you to buy a TB.

[@Brooklynraised68]

Good enough for that old car 👍🏼

[@jamespn]

I had a shift lock solenoid go out on ‘13 Pathfinder and I couldn’t shift out of park. I took it to a Nissan dealer and they replaced the entire shifter mechanism that included a new solenoid. The technical service bulletin called for a fix that required 13 pages of instruction that would have cost more labor than replacing the entire shifter mechanism, but the dealer didn’t have any no parts required Russian technicians. On your Honda will it shift out of park if the brake pedal isn’t depressed?

[@ablackformula]

Could it be a dirty throttle body keeping the tps too far open? Perhaps it's just at that pcm threshold of idle/off idle.

[@tharakanewan3544]

Once i stumble upon a toyota which doesn't go to Off even the key is out of the key switch. Found out that it had a problem with turn signals and repaired. Some tech bypassed a wire in the hazard light switch , direct battery + to ignition feed because that ignition feed wasn't present and somehow forgot to CHOP the original feed line. For some reason the lost connection is back alive and it is in a loop feeding battery + to ignition.It took me while to figure it out.:(

[@amundsen575]

great save, unfortunately, you are paying for it by helping the customer out and not replacing the ECU with the bad driver. I fix my own stuff and can live with this type of work around. But when a customer has a problem , your time is not paid for after you saved them the cost of an ECU.

[@shemanator247]

ANOTHER WONDERFUL DIAG

[@likearockcm]

Hope that wire doesn't magically reconnect itself !

[@paquesepas6696]

Did you have a trailblazer video recently and then it disappeared?

[@adotintheshark4848]

My only concern here is you've disabled the transmission lockout. I know that replacing the engine computer is expensive, but what happens if the car is in gear when it's not supposed to be and something happens? You could be liable. Sometimes you have to fire the very expensive parts cannon to save your own bacon.

[@MTLeopold]

Just put on a sticker that says parking brake must be engaged when in park. I know there is a good reason for the safety switch but honestly, it is called a parking brake. If you were really worried about safety you'd always use it.

[@ecaparts]

Ivan, did you check to see it you could perform a throttle relearn based on the TSB #SN040705. We both know the PCM showing a 9% throttle doesn’t seem right. Im sure it’s not a driver issue with the SLS, the TSB for the shifter stuck in park mentions the TPS must show 0% @ idle. What changed? Nobody knows, 9% must be that grey area where it sometimes works. That would be my guess…

[@steveboone5450]

This is 100% correct. The original problem was that the throttle body had to be relearned (there are many root causes for why it would get out of whack -- carbon buildup, cleaning, replacement, TPS replacement, etc.). There is a manual process for causing the relearn and the customer almost certainly inadvertently did this relearn which caused the driver to "mysteriously" start working properly (after now knowing that the accel is not being pressed). Suggest to revert circuit to prior form which will re-enable the critical safety interlock and all will be good.

[@pontificusvascillious5287]

so do you cut the RED wire or the BLUE one?

[@pcallah3442]

It was actually the headliner module that disabled the vehicle.

[@keltecshooter]

Just a thought , would cap discharge have initially helped the driver malfunction and is it plausible that somehow this is the reason for the driver to suddenly start functioning again ?

[@dxxxm231]

Creative fix. This down pose a safety issue where the driver can put it into gear without depressing brake pedal.

[@lilplucky6977]

Hey Ivan, always have been a big fan of your work and ability to fix almost everything without parts however why cut the wire over simply removing that pin from the connector and taping it off?

[@pingpong9656]

He explained it - he cut the wire instead of removing the pin because there were other blank pins and it would be confusing to know where it went back in the future.

[@dwaynemedlin8683]

I would have wired of the brake light switch. But I also thought that wire should have been cut when I watched the first video..

[@damonbrenwald7658]

Dont you just love working on these modern pieces of crap!!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I don't mind it...more variables to go wrong haha

[@poq600]

I guess I agree with caca detoro on the liability issue but I'm sure the customer okayed the fix right????????

[@PaulCTownsend]

Great Diagnosing as always.

[@josephneal4858]

nice video brother!!!! I did enjoy it!!!!

[@paulmonk7820]

If I'm following correctly, you made another modification to fix your original modification because the driver started working. You are a genius at understanding and fixing things, but making modifications like this complicates everything, including diagnostic software and procedures. It's probably okay if it's your car and no one else has to work on it, but for another tech working on someone else's car, it can turn into a nightmare. There should be a way to document changes made to configurations that the next tech will see. I see so many instances of wire looms cut and taped, spliced (repaired) wiring, that cause concern with the next person having to work on it (including you and SMA). I doubt it will happen, but wouldn't it be nice if there was a way to document the changes made to original configurations? I know shade tree mechanics and people who do their own work will just scoff, but professionals like yourself should be willing and able to leave a paper trail. It's admirable that you did this repair at no charge, but what would it do to the customer's confidence and trust if someone else had to fix it. There's no telling what it would have cost him. Your reputation would probably take a hit, too.

[@suttoncoldfield9318]

List it all down on the bill/invoice? Course, if the owner isn't bothering about keeping paperwork nice and tidy and to hand...

[@Agent-nw3it]

In my opinion, one heck job to cover up the first one. But if there is no charge the second time and the customer agrees and understands that this is esentially a heck job, then ok. Many shops would rather try 3 heck jobs, charge all of them, then say "go to the stealership for a new PCM".

[@dennisbjones]

Ivan, did you consider the comment by @TheOmegaman69 in the first video (I will copy-paste here): "I think you might want to check into the TP sensor. The TP Sensor voltage, KOEO (or idle), should be 0.49 Volts DC. The relative throttle position should be 0%. The relative throttle position is what is used, I believe, by the ECM for this shift interlock circuit. If it is above 0%, the shifter will not move out of park. I believe there maybe a TSB or recall on this issue. If the "TP sensor" PID you were looking at is the relative TP sensor value, then it should be 0%, and not 9.80%. This is just a possibility and a guess, so please keep that in mind. I am pretty sure that it is the relative throttle position sensor value that is used, not the actual value, by the ECM for this shift interlock circuit, and it must be 0% or it will not shift out of park. Again, just a possibility and a guess. I don't have enough specific information in this case to be able to do much more than suggest a possibility and provide a guess. Just wanted to add it would be helpful to ask if the TPS Sensor (Throttle Body) has been replaced recently. If so, then the ECM needs to be reset and a idle relearn done, which should put the relative TP sensor to 0%. The relative throttle position sensor value is a learned value."

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great question! But the TPS value never changed, and the interlock circuit is intermittent. Therefore I don't think that the TPS is at fault here.

[@steveboone5450]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics The PCM very likely relearned the throttle setting over the time the customer drove the car after you first fix and now that it has relearned, it is working properly (PCM now knows that the accel is not being depressed by driver). Please check out my comment above with more details on my theory and if true, revert the circuit to original form and it will likely work (and be much safer for the owners).

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

@@steveboone5450 it took 2 months to relearn the throttle position that never changed to begin with? I don't buy it 😅

[@engeneer_ru5827]

Привет, Иван! Наверное, теплая погода все хорошо прогрела и плата, вновь решила работать...

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Возможно...

[@poq600]

The dreaded "GM ignition switch from hell" is always on my mind.