Complete Image Workflow - From Location to Editing

[@post8248]

Great explanation Andy. Just discovered your chanel a few weeks ago and it's the best content about landscape photography I see in YT!!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you're enjoying the channel

[@PartialS]

The generosity of people like you is just great. Seeing those choices you make is so valuable, and helps extend the thought process so usefully, so much more so than any set of a thousand "7 Photoshop tips" videos, even though those are the ones that get the clicks. Your work helps me try to raise my own so much, and see new things. Thanks so much.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you found the videos useful

[@jamesdwyer2931]

Very inspirational! I have books, articles and videos on how to use Lightroom but, until watching this, I didn't realize just how much I was missing out by sticking with Camera Raw and NOT learning how to use Lightroom. This video is a great kick in the pants for me. Many thanks!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment James, glad you found the video useful

[@gerryphilpott9766]

This was terrific. I'll look for more of your workflow videos as I'm just dipping my toes into LRC and the detail you went into and reasons for moving in and out of Photoshop were very helpful. I had some friends suggest I do this or that with plug-ins and now I know what they were talking about. Thanks.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you found it useful. I want to make more workflow videos this year when i can travel again.

[@gerryphilpott9766]

@@AndyMumford Great, I'll be watching. Purchased the DXO set and did a photo in the silver efex and will start playing around with the color efex on a few now as well.

[@dtravisphd]

I learnt a lot from your subtle approach to image editing, rather than the turn-it-up-to-11 processing I see in many other landscape images (including my own!)

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks David

[@bsatyadarshi]

Great tutorial. And the same goes for all your videos. Thank you so much for doing this.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you found the video useful

[@Average_But_Specific]

Love your compositions and your videos Andy. Have made me ..a) re-focus on my landscape photography and un-learn and re-learn a few things ..b) excited to add a telephoto lens in my landscape kit ...and c) realize that there is so much more to learn! Hope to meet you someday, travel and shoot with you! :)

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you found the video useful

[@msgaltman3075]

Hi Andy. Sorry for being late to the party. I really enjoyed the video. The most unique and helpful aspect of the video was in the field when you were able to literally point to the composition as you discussed your intentions with the image. I've never seen anyone do a first-person view like that. Great stuff.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for watching, glad you liked the video

[@bessawissa3983]

Thank you! Always fantastic videos. I realy like the way you explain what you're doing.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks, glad you liked it

[@channinghatcher8580]

Thanks for such a great video covering process from shot location thoughts to editing.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks Channing, glad you enjoyed the video

[@buddywheels]

Splendid video Andy, so clear and logical. Love it

[@gryzman]

Nice to see you working through the whole process. I really am not a fan of the massive amount of photoshop work some people do to their image. Looking at you Mr​ Locardi. On the subject of workshops. May I suggest a workshop in the UK, that would be more convenient for people like me. Plenty of gorgeous spots here.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment Greg, glad you enjoyed the video. I occasionally contemplate workshops in the UK, perhaps in Scotland, but there are already so many brilliant photographers running workshops there. Let's see...every year I sit down with my partner and make a plan for the following year so maybe one day it'll happen.

[@stegenfeldtEV]

Thanks a bunch! I am sloooowly trying to go back into landscape and nature photography (shifted to street when I went digital) and feel somewhat lost. Really like this video, it really helps.

[@kieranlehane]

At 9:40 you said you were going to change the saturation but you changed the Sharpness. Great video Andy and beautiful image. Really enjoyed it.

[@AndyMumford]

Someone else has just pointed that out...damn, I can't believe I missed that. I thought the adjustment was a little subtle...

[@kieranlehane]

Andy Mumford aha it's all good. Really enjoying your videos at the moment. Only subscribed recently but your cogent is great. First came from your video about using fujifilm. Keep it up!

[@WS-bk7uu]

Thanks of making this Andy it's a great insight into your process!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks, glad you found it useful

[@beckermuns1970]

Great video Andy, awesome work and fantastic results !!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it

[@JorgeRiveroMadge1982]

Great video! Would love to see you edit some more photos.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much. The next video will be about video editing

[@DougDoan]

Awesome video Andy. I also use the TK Action V4 panel. It’s really great.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks, glad you liked the video

[@peterbiggin7193]

Good video Andy I really enjoyed following the process all the way. Subscribed

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks Peter, glad you liked it.

[@Snowcatnz2]

Great video Andy. Great image and great info on the edit.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks Tim

[@AlessandroTorri]

I love your videos. But I love more your style of shooting. Every composition is so clean and well balanced... Keep on this kind of video...You are very inspiring to me, to my photography Thank you Andy

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks Alessandro, I'm really glad you like the images.

[@djsuth7727]

Another great video, Andy. I'm going to have to take a closer look at those TKactions - that looks like a really handy tool that will save time doing all those tasks manually.

[@AndyMumford]

Luminosity Masks are an incredibly powerful tool and probably the main reason why I still need PS in my workflow. They're pretty daunting at first but the TK action panel really makes using them quite simple.

[@djsuth7727]

100% agree - I've been using luminosity masks for years, but this tool looks to simply the process massively. Don't know why I haven't stumbled across it sooner … thanks for bringing it to my attention !

[@kellieashton3697]

Another amazing video. I just adore your tutorials. This one overwhelmed me because I'm only a beginner and have no clue what I'm doing with lightroom etc. I think I need to find a course haha.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful

[@GarethDanks]

Superrrrrb vid. Adore that image. Colours are wonderful. Very interesting to see your workflow. I need to try that plug in. Would love to join you on a workshop. Be amazing. Thanks mate. Ga

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks Gareth, glad you enjoyed the workshop

[@Ak97117]

Found this very interesting and informative. Thank you. Looking forward to seeing more.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks Andrew

[@nirvana613]

Hey Andy I'd love to see a video about the different lenses that fuji have on offer and your opinion on them and recommendations for various scenarios.All the best

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Ciel. I haven't used all the different Fuji lenses and tend to go with what I think will work for each given situation, and also with what's light weight and easy to pack. I'm planning on doing a comparison of the 16-55 and 18-55 next month, and at some point I want to do a comparison of the different wide angles (10-24mm, 14mm and 16mm) as well as a comparison of the 55-200mm and 50-140mm, but that'll take time as I have to ask Fuji to lend me the lenses that I don't have, and then I like to spend time seeing how they are in practical use, rather than just comparing sharpness etc.

[@nirvana613]

Andy Mumford Thanks for the reply.I bought the Fuji XF 18mm F2 R as a first lens for my XT20 and I was planning on doing some landscape photography with it and was interested in what to look at for future lenses.I'm used to shooting street photography and the whole interest in trying out landscapes came from your stunning photographs and these amazing videos you put out.I'm a big fan and I look forward to more great content from you ! All the best and happy travels !

[@stanguilbaud8612]

Great workflow !

[@AndyMumford]

Cheers

[@JamesBrewphoto]

Wow! A dream location...one day...one day!

[@AndyMumford]

Cheers James

[@beatmanbeat]

Beautiful composition. A bit blue for my taste but I think works well with complimentary color.

[@bernios3446]

Andy, I might be wrong, but my impression is that in the edited version, the horizon is slightly hanging to the left. You might verify with a ruler or so. Otherwise, as usual, a very concentrated and no- nonsense video. Always educating - just look at your thumbs up/ thumbs down ratio! Pretty clear that your efforts are the right ones...

[@jiyang-chen]

The horizon is the ocean on the left side but he included the bay which is not really the horizon and that's why it's tilted

[@oldgrumpyjim5003]

Thanks Andy. This has really filled in the bits that I was struggling with in editing fuji xtrans files especially in relation to sharpening which I have found to be a completely different practice. Nik collection I couldn't get to work with all the updates to PS and was waiting for the new version this year (cant remember who took them over) but will look again. The other plugin you mention Ive got but still need to learn to use them. Still get blown away with the colour and detail of the extrans files straight out of camera, but editing them is a slightly different skill 'but I'm slowly getting there' the one thing that has become evident is don't sharpen in Lightroom. Thanks again Jim

[@davemackenzie9900]

Are you on Windows or Mac? I have Windows 10 (much to my regret) and PS CC and my NIK plug-ins were fine.

[@oldgrumpyjim5003]

Hi Dave I'm on a Mac and thought I'll try again and reinstall the plugins, but no joy I'm afraid. I think it was around two adobe updates ago that they stopped working or became buggy at the beginning but now they freeze everything up. I'll wait and see what dxo come out with as apparently there will be an update soon. Jim

[@RichardPotter]

Loving your videos, please keep them coming :)

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks Richard

[@stigfloberghagenphotography]

Very helpful. I was at this spot this summer. 👍🙂

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed the video

[@toopkarcher]

Awesome video :) this channel is a fantastic find!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks, glad you liked the video

[@AndreaGarzaAG]

Fantastic video

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks

[@teresapacheco63]

Excellent!

[@AndyMumford]

Thankyou :-)

[@Michaltron]

Love videos like this. You definitely should do more videos like this :)

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks, glad you liked it

[@max7164]

Hi Andy. Love your videos! Love your your compositional style, editing process and the fact you shoot Fuji. I was wondering, do you still use grad filters a lot or do you prefer bracketing shots these days? Part of me likes the idea of getting it all in one shot but it can be a lot of faff sometimes!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you enjoyed the video. I no longer use grads at all, just circular NDs if I want to slow exposure, and everything is done with bracketing.

[@max7164]

@@AndyMumford Thanks for responding! If I can ask one more question then, do you merge the images using Lightroom HDR and then push/pull the shadows and highlights with local adjustments? Or do you use luminosity masks in Photoshop? I guess you could also merge the two and produce an HDR and then dodge/burn using the luminosity range mask in Lightroom.

[@samsstreets8684]

Great video. At 9:51 when you say you're going to pump the saturation and then move the sharpness slider instead, which did you mean? Looks great either way, I'm sure!

[@AndyMumford]

Damn. I can't believe I missed that. Sorry Sam. I meant Saturation, I don't apply sharpening to images (well, not on purpose at least) and intended to push the saturation in the pools of water here to bring out the colour of the algae and moss. Really sorry about that, and thanks for the heads up.

[@samsstreets8684]

Andy Mumford no problem, just wanted to check! I’m a Fuji shooter too so always a bit scared of the sharpening slider ; )

[@tallaganda83]

I just bought an Xe3 too i find the files hard to edit, do you set sharpening in camera or something, my images look very soft and if i add sharpening they have those artefacts, don't want to give up on what could end up being a great little travel camera just yet but i do find them more difficult to edit than any other camera i have used.

[@samsstreets8684]

tallaganda83 what lens are you using? I don’t do any sharpening in Lightroom at all. I do a high pass filter in photoshop. I actually find the files super easy to work with because the colours are so good SOOC.

[@1spitfirepilot]

Thanks - that was interesting, lucid and well thought through. To be honest, I tend to lean on LR much more than PS and I reckon I'm not the only one. PS can seem a bit intimidating. Videos like this help to demystify it and present it as a useful complement to LR.

[@AndyMumford]

LR is fantastic, and I'd like to be able to use it exclusively. I can for some images, but there are others that just really need PS to give that final pop. It is a complex piece of software, but I only use a fraction of it's functionality and that's relatively straightforward to learn.

[@gregkent3748]

Enjoyed the video, thanks for posting!

[@AndyMumford]

Cheers Greg

[@janjanssens5860]

Hi Andy, first of all thank you so much for sharing your huge knowledge with us. I‘m sorry for my english, it‘s not so good. I am an owner of a Fuji x-t2 since a short time. My question to you is if you plan to make a video regarding presets on the camera. Kind regards from Switzerland! Jan

[@mtollin2002]

Really wonderful and pretty. Thank you. I am curious why you didn't darken the mountain on the right at the end or do something else to it. You seemed to be tempted to, but then it seemed like you pulled back. Did you want to retain the light and enjoy how it leads in toward the middle mountain? Are your leanings to retain and leave natural rather than over-engineer? I am just curious. I really learn a lot from your videos and your thought process. Thanks again.

[@infdesu]

Great video! You got the balance of speed and depth of explaining just right. Personally as a lazy post processor I rely way too often on full screen edits and this is another excellent reminder to basically mask everything by default. A few thoughts: I vastly prefer non-destructive edits and I was slightly horrified when you casually flattened the PS layers and saved, given that the layered workflow was important a few steps before. Incidentally I have recently quite liked Luminar since it seems to really nail many points you mentioned: crop, layers, masks (inc. luminance), personal subsets of advanced filters that you like and finally their proprietary format that saves everything as non-destructive. I'm curious if you have any experience or particular reason on using Luminar since at least on the surface it would seem like a faster and vastly cheaper way to get to similar workflows. I just unboxed an X-T20 and still waiting for my first ever set of 100mm filters to arrive. Maybe some day I'll get to replicate your skill level of shots. Respect!

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Teemu, glad you liked the video. Actually, I haven't any experience with Luminar. Enjoy your X-T20, it's an awesome camera.

[@sassicassiful]

Hi! Love your photos... did you use a soft or hard grad nd? Thank you 😊

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much. I always use soft grads, particularly with images like this where there's somethign above the horizon line like the cliff here

[@sassicassiful]

@@AndyMumford thank you for replying 😁 I’m addicted to your channel.. I just bought the grad, glad I bought the right one complete beginner when it comes to cameras but you’re teaching me well, thank you 😊 x

[@TheGreensticker]

Thank you.. Very useful and informative!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, glad you found it useful

[@tristan3665]

Hi Andy! I am wondering what you do about the way lightroom imports Fujifilm raw files and the squiggly lines that come out.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment. Well, I have sharpening turned to zero and I find I only get the wormy artefacts if I zoom in to 200%, and I've never been much of a pixel peeper so that's not something I really do

[@hello1237874]

Excellent video and images Andy. Appreciate your time and enthusiasm. When you process Fuji raw files in Lightroom do you use the Fuji film simulations at all? Also, could you expand on how you sharpen Fuji raw files? Thanks so much!

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Jay. No, I don't use the Fuji film simulations. The Adobe ones that you can apply to Fuji RAW files are particularly bad and block up the shadows too much. With sharpening there's nothing more to explain than I did in this video. I just apply the sharpening I mentioned at the end to the final version of the file.

[@bernios3446]

So you just use Adobe Standard or so? I find the new Adobe color not too bad. A bit more... bold than the old one.

[@JeniaFabisuk]

Thanks so much for sharing this!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for watching

[@rodneytopor1846]

Nice video Andy. Interested in your comments on the new Adobe profiles. As you used a wide angle lens, which makes distant objects smaller, would you consider stretching the featured rocks/mountain in Photoshop to make them appear relatively taller to correspond better to the way we see them?

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Rodney. Stretching objects in PS is a bit of a slippery slope and not something I'm happy doing. Shooting in mountains with a wide angle can be frustrating though as it does "shrink" the mountains a little.

[@kevinarrowsmith6955]

Thank you, another great video Andy. Always interesting to see other people's workflow. I have always tended to crop first so that any subsequent operations are only carried out on pixels which will be in the final frame. However, I don't do any external editing outside of my RAW processor (Capture One), as it offers most of the actions you carried out in PS natively. I am also an advocate of ND Grads, there are occasions where the dynamic range of a composition is just too great at the right to correct with luminosity corrections alone. Look forward to a video on depth of field!

[@steven4217]

At 6 min it seems as if you were choosing specifically what area you wanted to edit by adjusting that line to your liking. You can also do that in the regular light room? (Sorry for the rookie questions)

[@AndyMumford]

The gradient filter. Yes, you can do that in all current versions of Lightroom (Classic, CC and Mobile)

[@steven4217]

@@AndyMumford thanks for the reply. I'll definitely be trying it out

[@tonesvisuals8690]

Great video, how.are you sharpening the fuji files and getting rid of the worm effect?

[@AndyMumford]

I don't do any sharpening on the RAW files. I only sharpen files when they are output, so for internet upload export as JPEGS and sharpen them when I resize them, and for prints I export as TIFFS and apply a layer of High Pass Sharpening in Photoshop. The RAF files are never sharpened.

[@bitonio7704]

Great journey through the creation of the image. How do you focus the image initially? I still struggling even with f/8-f/11 it happens the foreground can get blurry. I am spending more time with trial and error, I am curious to know how you do it? Thank you and again kudos, great stuff!

[@AndyMumford]

It depends on the image. Here the foreground was more than a meter in front of the camera so it was easy to get depth of field throughout the image. I use focus peaking to focus manually in most of my landscape images.

[@ANDYD655]

Great tutorial Andy on a fantastic image! Could you tell me why you should resize an image for web and not just leave it as it is please as I don’t understand all this resizing stuff and when to do it.

[@AndyMumford]

Hi. Glad you liked the video. You should resize an image for a couple of reason. First you should never put full resolution image online as it allows people to steal your work. Also, a full size image is anything between 30 and 45mb which means that either it will make the webpage load really slowly as there's so much data, or in the case of most website (like Facebook or Instagram) it will be resized by them and the compression often makes the image look softer or introduces halos.

[@ANDYD655]

Andy Mumford cheers Andy

[@wesselkriel8552]

Great video-but I favor cropping first to see if it is worth pursuing the image further.So spot removal and cropping first.What about detail extractor in Nik-especially targeting the lightened mountain you targeted and then also Photoshop sharpening?Thumbs up-THX

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, glad you liked the video. There are so many different ways of editing images, if I did it again today I'd probably do it differently. I do occasionally use the Detail Extractor in Color Efex Pro, but very very little as it can be pretty harsh.

[@iqueque]

How would colour editing of the blue hour shot work? Reducing the blue, adding some warmth might work.

[@AndyMumford]

I tend to try to work more with the prevailing mood and so I'd tend to avoid adding warmth thats not there. The blue hour is cool light, and this image was taken in the arctic circle, so the cool blue is a part of the scene and the mood. I'd look for ways to enhance that and bring out the complementary colours, like the pinks in the sky.

[@rhmimages]

Great info.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks Robin

[@xtwu2011]

Andy, I love your video. Are you from UK or other countries?

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment Tracy. I'm originally from the UK, but I left more than 20 years ago and have lived in Lisbon for most of that time. I consider Portugal to my home now and I have Portuguese citizenship, but yes, my roots are in the UK.

[@christopherjenkins3366]

Hi Andy, great video and very helpful as always- Just one thing I'm not sure about - what is the purpose of the first/duplicate layer in the Photoshop edit? Given that Nik filters create their own layers, isn't the first/duplicate layer a bit redundant? All the best, Chris

[@AndyMumford]

There's no real reason, it's just a habit of making a flattened layer when I open the image in another application (Nik or Camera RAW)

[@V2classic75]

Great video, what kind of filters are you using for your xt2? Thanks again

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Andrea. I'm using Lee 100mm filters

[@AndreaLivieriPhoto]

Beautiful video as usually my friend! Very nice footages and well edited. I love both the shots 😊 ps. Color Efex Pro is a powerful tool in the editing process, but unfortunately in my case it seems to crush the deepest blacks too much, and I haven’t figured out the problem yet. 🤔

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Andrea. As always my friend, thanks for the comment. Which filter do you find crushes the black in Color Efex Pro? The Pro Contrast?

[@AndreaLivieriPhoto]

The problem is there without any filter. When the image is loaded I can see immediately a colors shifting. I never had this problem until the two previous Adobe PS releases. I guess a conflict with the color profile, maybe :/

[@agvogel]

Hi Andy, would you be able to achieve the same results from Color Efex in PS by using split toning and the color mixer in LR? If so, how would you go about it?

[@AndyMumford]

Hmmm, I'm really not sure. Sorry about that

[@michelem.ph9559]

Thank's Mr. Mumford , another interesting and useful video I liked a lot. Can I ask you about ND filters you use. It seems a sistem like Cokin or something like that instead a circular nd filter screwed up on the lens. I'm about to purchase my first set of ND filters and I'd like to know your suggestions about it. Many thank's.

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Michelle. Square filters are better as the allow you to slide the graduated filters up and down in the holder to ensure the line of the graduation is in the right place (for example along the line of the horizon) Cokin filters are....OK, but they tend to have a colour cast which changes the colour of images. Generally, I'd always recommend Lee, NiSi or Hitech.

[@michelem.ph9559]

Andy Mumford Thank’s a lot. You answer is very much appreciated. It’s exactly what I needed to know. 🙏

[@solvm1652]

Awesome

[@benjaminfargen]

Hi Andy, Great video...did you do any kind of measurement for hyperfocal distance? Or did you just focus 1/3 into the frame based upon experience? Thanks!

[@AndyMumford]

I don't really worry about hyperlocal distance too much. Generally, as you say I'll pick an object about a third of the way in and focus around that, but mostly now I use focus peaking in manual focus which gives me an accurate idea of what parts of the image are in focus and which aren't

[@bassoonman1562]

Thanks for sharing your workflow. How did you get Colour Efex Pro to work as I have these filters but since moving to Adobe CC these no longer work. Is there a way to get these filters to work in PS?

[@AndyMumford]

You need to have the filters as Photoshop Plug Ins, not stand alone filters. Then, if I remember correctly when Adobe switched to CC it created a lot of new folders on the hard drive, so your Nik Filters are probably in a folder that your new version of PS doesn't access forums.adobe.com/thread/2406565

[@toddholmes1719]

Andy, I’ve just discovered your channel and I love it! This video seems to imply a timeline of about 25% composing & shooting and 75% post-processing. Is that realistic for your process, or just an artifact of the video editing?

[@AndyMumford]

No, that's not really true, that's just the way the video works out. I was on location for almost two hours first picking a spot (which I didn't video) and then waiting for the light and refining composition. I only really filmed the part in the field where I'd found my composition and was making the shot when the light was at it's peak.

[@toddholmes1719]

Andy Mumford , thanks for the quick reply. I’d be very interested in a video on the process of “picking a spot”.

[@Ian61432]

Thanks for sharing what goes into making your spectacular images! I was just wondering, do you ever use the Fujifilm profiles (Provia, Pro Negative etc) as a starting point in Lightroom, rather than Adobe Standard? Many thanks!

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Ian. Thanks for the comment. I never use Fuji film presets as a starting point in processing, just the default Adobe Standard,

[@Ian61432]

Hi Andy, thanks for the reply! I'd been feeling lately when editing that the Fuji presets in Lightroom were introducing some strange colours and quirky contrast - perhaps they aren't as subtle as the simulations you can get from the jpegs in camera. I'll be brave and try working the raws from the flat Adobe Standard!

[@kristiejochim9089]

Andy, how do you back up your photos in the field? Do you use external hard drives or just take extra sd cards since you have a dual card slot? Thank you!!

[@AndyMumford]

I take a WD My Passport Wireless SSD with me. You can back up cards on the HD without needing a computer (although it works really well with an iPad) www.andymumford.com/blog/2018/2/20/review-my-passport-wireless-ssd-for-travelling-photographers

[@johncarter591]

Hi just wondering what you thoughts are on setting white balance during the Blue hour should one just use Auto white Balance or should one be using a manual/costume white balance? Look forward to your reply!

[@AndyMumford]

I usually depend on Auto WB, but in certain scenes where I don't really like what I'm getting then I'll set the WB manually. This is also true in panoramas where I want the WB to be the same for each shot

[@SnapographyAP]

Really interesting to see how you work! Do you recommend this luminosity plug in above others or is this just one you came across.? Many thanks

[@AndyMumford]

The Tony Kuyper plug in is the one I use because he's the guy who first developed Luminosity Masks. Other companies have latched on to what he's doing, but he's the one who started it all off and built the luminosity masks in the first place, and he also has great customer care.

[@SnapographyAP]

@@AndyMumford Thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated. Another KZbin video recommended a plug in from Jimmy McIntyre which I was considering.

[@13rosab]

Great video Andy, really helpful! I just wondered, did you have to focus stack this image to get it pin sharp front to back?

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Ben, glad you liked the video. No, I didn't need to focus stack for this shot because the foreground wasn't particularly close to the lens.

[@dancuff]

Hi Andy. Thanks for the video. I was wondering - what laptop do you use for editing when traveling?

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Dan, I actually never take my laptop with me when I travel (I use a MacBook Pro 15”) because I rarely edit while I’m travelling. It’s that there’s usually not much time, and when I do have downtime I prefer to properly switch off. I back up using an WD MyPassport WiFi which doesn’t need a laptop to backup SD cards, and generally I travel with an iPad. For example I’m in the Dolomites now writing this on an iPad Pro

[@dancuff]

Interesting - thanks!

[@Pilantravis]

These type of vídeos are superb. Very enlightning. Perhaps you could go a step beyond and show us how you would print the image. The settings you use, etc. As a side note, your microfone produces a "shhh" sound. It would make your message clearer if you could improve that in the sound.

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Paulo. Thanks for the comment, glad you like the video. I must admit that when it comes to prints I'm a little lazy. I have a lab in Lisbon do them (MyStudio Lisboa). It's a small family printers and they've been doing my prints for years. They just always get results that I like. Regarding the "shhh", it's not the microphone it's the computer. When I'm running Lightroom, Photoshop and Quicktime Player to record the screen the fan spins up and makes a noise. I push it as far away from the mike as possible, but it's still possible to pick it up.

[@haiderabbas96]

Hi Andy, I heard a lot of people complaining about weird artifacts when sharpening Fuji Raw files in Light Room, some people say Capture One is better. Can you please explain what that problem is? Also, do you always create Photoshop tiff files for each image, if so, isn't that workflow takes a lot of space on your storage (specially if you don't merge all layers once you are done)?

[@AndyMumford]

I don't have that artefact problem as I don't sharpen my images in Lightroom. CaptureOne probably produces a little more detail in RAW conversion and slightly more vivid colours. With the TIFF files it does create more space, but to be honest you can't do photography seriously and worry about storage, it's just part of photography. I don't store any of my images on my computer, once they've been edited they are all moved onto a mirrored hard drive that's on the wifi network, and then backed up on other hard drives. I've got several terabytes of images....it's just the way landscape photography is.

[@michelem.ph9559]

Hello Mr. Mumford, can I ask you some tips about which ND or GND filters I should buy as first purchase? Basically I’m thinking to buy a NiSi V5 Pro holder with the landscape polarizer. Then I should buy my first ND or GND filters set up but I’m not sure about what should I choose first. Any suggestion will be very much appreciated. Thanks a lot.

[@AndyMumford]

The NiSi V5 Pro holder is excellent. As for what you should buy first, I really only use 2 filters regularly, a 2 stop GND and a 6 stop ND for long exposures. Those two are a great place to start.

[@michelem.ph9559]

@@AndyMumford Thank you very much. Your suggestions means a lot to me. I really do appreciate.

[@NWP4440]

So you don’t seem to have a problem using the Fuji Raw file in Adobe LR and PS like so many complain about. Interesting. Great video!

[@AndyMumford]

No, I don't have a problem with LR at all. I don't do any sharpening in Lightroom which is probably why

[@deinien9445]

Hi Andy, when I used to use Canon, I simply used the TV mode to capture slow shutter images during the daytime. With the XT2, I'm having difficulty taking slow shutter speed photographs during the daytime because the images are always overexposed. How should I set the settings so that I can take a picture of say, a water fountain at 1 - 2 second shutter speed when the sun is bright? Do I HAVE to purchase a dark filter?

[@AndyMumford]

In bright light the only way you can get a shutter speed of a second or so is with a dark filter.

[@deinien9445]

Andy Mumford Ok thank you, Andy.

[@deinien9445]

Andy Mumford Any recommendations on the ND filter kit Andy?

[@AndyMumford]

I use Lee 100mm filters, but NiSi filters are also very good.

[@deinien9445]

Andy Mumford Thank you, Andy.

[@shunyuyao7223]

Hi Andy, could you tell me what's the shutter release cable you use in the video? I tried find it around b&h or amazon but couldn't at all. Thanks a lot! ;)

[@AndyMumford]

It's the Fujifilm 04004961 Mechanical Release Cable for X-series. I got it here amzn.to/2s42NfA

[@shunyuyao7223]

Thanks a lot! And could you share the reason why you choose the mechanical release cable? I am really curious. As an Olympus user before I only used some release cable with a small controller. I guess it could helpful at such extremely could weather because it's mechanical. However it's just your personally like the mechanical release cable or there some reason like reliable or something cause you tend to use that mechanical release cable? Anyhow, thank you for the reply!

[@AndyMumford]

It's because the regular cable release plugs into the side of the camera on a Fuji, which makes it impossible to use when I have the camera in an L Bracket in portrait orientation. The mechanical cable release screws into the top and doesn't have that problem.

[@shunyuyao7223]

Make sense!! Thank you!

[@Patricksstrategy]

Great movie

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it

[@liz2959]

Can you please talk about filters?

[@AndyMumford]

It's on my list of videos to make this year

[@liz2959]

@@AndyMumford Great! Thank you

[@sandyclyburn5675]

I assume this is a.raf file from an XT-2?.....Looks like you go right into LR and begin Processing, have you ever tried using any of the Iridient products to process your .raf files?

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Sandy. I have Irridient Transformer, which I occasionally use as an extension of LR to do the RAF conversion, but most of the time I don't feel that it's necessary as I really don't have a problem with LRs conversion of Fuji raw files. I understand that there are some people who do though.

[@sandyclyburn5675]

Andy Mumford what version of LR are you running?

[@AndyMumford]

The latest version of Lightroom CC Classic

[@mali8389]

so you normally dont use exposure layering? your shots have great dynamic range so i thought maybe some kind of HDR or layering different exposures was done. Some of your images are exquisite and i dont say this lightly :)

[@AndyMumford]

It depends. Sometimes I'll bracket shots and blend them to get the full dynamic range but here it was possible to to do it all with a graduated filter, which is my preferred method if possible. Thanks for the comment, glad you liked the video

[@ttietsch]

Why do you prefer adding additional glass which needs cleaning, can broken ans has extra weight? It's so easy to overblend two images. Or is it just an old habit? Since I have learned the overblending technique I'm asking that question to myself, if there is ever a use case where manual glass can achive cleaner results.

[@billythom1]

Andy I notice you edit straight from RAF rather than convert to DNG, I would be interested to hear your views on the benefits or otherwise of converting to DNG. Cheers Billy

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Billy. I don't really know of any benefits of converting to DNG. As far as I know there's no extra information in a DNG file

[@rasicaphoto6450]

If you already have TK actions, why did you use a gradual ND filter? Reflections in the ponds in foreground should be darker than the sky to make the scene look natural. With NDG filter you only darken the sky, and the reflections in the water have remained the same. I guess you know what I mean, otherwise I appreciate your hard work.

[@ttietsch]

I also don't understand why people still use GNDs if you can achive cleaner results with luminosity masks and manual blending technique.

[@rasicaphoto6450]

I really don't know, maybe they copy each other, because there are a bunch of them here on KZbin using GND filters. The only advantage of using GND-s is that you can get the "final" photo instantly in camera. Cons better not to mention - reduced sharpness, more prone to flare, unnatural transitions, color cast, more gear to carry and worry about, price, etc. especially when shooting jagged mountain peaks, some objects and trees over the horizon...

[@ttietsch]

Fully agree. In serious landscape photography there is never a final photo out of cam. This is the case for street, documentary, events. But in landscape I always try to get the best out of a RAW file. So I don't get it why people stick to GNDs which obviusly reduce the IQ. Maybe Manfred can say some words to it. I really do not see the advantage nowadays.

[@AndyMumford]

I do both techniques. I'm curious about your comment that people only use GNDs because others on KZbin do. Most landscape photographers I know have been using GNDs since before KZbin existed, landscape photography has been around for a lot longer than the internet, and it's just something that fits effortlessly into their workflow. That's certainly how I feel. For certain images I'll blend, sometimes using LR, for more complex blends I'll use Luminosity masks, but for waterscapes and long exposures I'll almost always use a filter because I like to capture it in one shot. This is certainly the case for a long exposure as the clouds move between frames which means that the frame I shot for the sky will have clouds in different place to the frame I shoot for the water, which means the reflections don't synchronise. An example of that is this image static1.squarespace.com/static/5852ece3e6f2e1ac624051fb/t/5af493ff352f531e634a4f34/1525978134631/vasco.jpg?format=2500w. The shot I took immediately after had completely different clouds and would have looked weird as a blend as it wouldn't have matched the water reflection. That's just me personally though, if others prefer to blend then great, but I always feel that knowing different techniques for the same effect is never a bad thing.

[@rasicaphoto6450]

Because I've noticed a lot of young photographers using GND filters, otherwise it's an old school you're right. I see that you did not understand, that the reflection from sky in foreground should follow the sky in terms of exposure, to what extent it depends on personal affinity and should be synchronized even in the case of long exposure if it's important that your photo looks natural. Techniques are changing and evolving, and it's up to you whether you will accept it or not. For me, only quality is a priority, what can you see also at my channel or website.

[@Nivenization]

Thank you.

[@steven4217]

Looks like I should be using Light Room Classic instead of regular light room.

[@AndyMumford]

There's not really a difference between Lightroom Classic and Lightroom CC, but Classic has the ability to merge panos and bracketed exposures

[@tallaganda83]

Im having problems editing the files, in particular shots taken in Australia where i live. It has particular trouble dealing with our type of foliage, i guess the rough rocky terrain and browny green trees. The watercolour effect is terrible, i can't even do an 8x10 print without seeing it. Is it possible to make these files look good or is it just maybe not suited to what i shoot?

[@AndyMumford]

I honestly don't know...it's not a problem that I have at all with prints or commercial work. I don't sharpen my images at all other than when I resize them for the web, so it could be that. You could try different software. I've used CaptureOne and it does a great job with Fuji files. Try the free trial period and see. There are ways you can set up Capture One to work with Lightroom if you prefer the LR library function.

[@kenkelchtermans6476]

You are not converting it anymore true iridient for more detail?

[@AndyMumford]

I sometimes do, but on this occasion I didn't bother because this image really didn't need it.

[@nicolasbertin8552]

Color Efex Pro is 70 €... A bit steep when you're already paying monthly fees for Photoshop and Lightroom don't you think ?

[@AndyMumford]

It used to be free when it was owned by Google, but it seems DXO are now selling it. Personally I think it's worth €70 as it's a pretty essential tool that I use on most of my images.