Completing The Initial Setup Of The Sonic Pad - Sonic Pad Basics Part 2

In this video we will be completing the setup of our 3d printer now it is connected to our Sonic Pad using Klipper.
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*Other Sonic Pad Videos*
Sonic Pad Review: • Creality Sonic Pad - T...
Sonic Pad Basic Series
Part 1 - Connecting to a Creality 3D Printer: • How To Connect A Creal...
Part 1a - Connecting to a non-Creality 3D Printer: • How To Connect A Non-C...
Part 2 - Completing initial setup: • Completing The Initial...
Part 3 - Starting a print and UI Tour: • Starting A Print With ...
Part 4 - Controlling remotely and WEB UI: • How To Control Your So...
Part 5 - Connecting a camera and tinelapse videos: • How To Connect A Came...
Sonic Pad Intermediate Series
Part 1 - PID Tune • How To PID Tune With T...
Part 2 - E-Steps/Rotational Distance • How To Tune E-Steps/Ro...
Part 3 - Slicer Settings • Slicer Settings and Pr...
Part 4 - Sending Prints From Slicer/Images On Screen • How to Send Files To Y...
Part 5 - Input Shaping - • Tune Input Shaping Wit...
Part 6 - Pressure Advance - • Video
Part 7 - MACROs - • Video
Part 8 - Max Acceleration - • Maximum Acceleration T...
Part 9 - Mid-print Filament Change - • How To Complete a Mid-...
Other
Firmware Update September '23 - • Creality Sonic Pad Fir...
Creality Sonic Pad - How To Update Firmware Without Losing Everything! - • Creality Sonic Pad - H...
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[@richardbourret-beauregard517]

Ricky I know it's a little early but... MY DUDE. I've spent days trying to fix the stupid z offset on my printer since I installed the Sonic Pad. I failed like 20 prints on the first layer. The process to set the z offset is juuuuust a bit different and all I had to do is listen carefully at your instructions. Let's be honest here your videos are the de facto sonic pad user guide. Great work!

[@thomca2414]

This video alone corrected all the issues I had with bed leveling and z-offset on my S1 Pro!! Spot on! Thanks Ricky!

[@dabooge]

I'm a total newb. When it came to adjusting the Z, a little more explaining on the screen would've been nice. Thanks for the vid I was totally lost.

[@MrDangadave]

I was just about to go into panic mode and your video came up. Thank you 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

[@unstitchedslipper]

Hey Ricky, love your videos. One thing I figured out today regarding the Sonic Pad and ABL Mesh. If you want Klipper to use the mesh you created you need to add "BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default" to your start gcode, M420 isn't recognised by Klipper.

[@RickyImpey]

Yes, 100%. That will be covered in the intermediate series. There is a lot still to come but I wanted to get the basics out asap while I finished the other videos. Thanks, tips from other users will really help people in the mean time.

[@unstitchedslipper]

@@RickyImpey Sweet, looking forward to them. I'm new to both 3d printing and the Sonic Pad. I've found your videos an invaluable resource. Thank you.

[@neilbartlett3018]

Can you please explain where you add this profile?

[@RickyImpey]

@@neilbartlett3018 it goes in your start g-code in place of any m420 or g29 line

[@DD-yg2vr]

Love your stuff Ricky. Your teaching style is excellent and makes it very easy to learn new things. Thks again sir!

[@francescodigiovanni4632]

Finally a video with clear instructions. Thank you, thank you, hank you. Could you please post a video how to center the print on the bed? piratically how to set up the x-y offsets.

[@ode4492]

Hello, I’m a bit confused with the second z offset procedure (the final one after ABL). After manually lowering the nozzle to the 0.1mm feeler gauge why do you remove the feeler gauge, then send a final 0.1 command? Doesn’t that essentially close the gap and put the z offset too close to the bed? In other z offset procedures they touch the nozzle to the feeler gauge (or sheet of paper) with a little drag and that's it. They don’t send a command to then close that feeler gauge gap. I tried the method you showed and now I have substantial first layer squish and elephant foot. Thank you for the content!

[@clivedackus9427]

This has confused me too, would be great to have further explanation.

[@Pullheavy]

Well I calibrated with gauge of 0.20mm and did 20+ prints with nozzle dragging and scratching on 20%... I just recalibrated and did -0.20 after I set z-offset and you know what? It works... Dunno how.

[@Black3ternity]

Great - thanks for the series. I wanted to jump the gun and buy a sonic pad but I wasn't sure if it's something I would like. Thanks for the bite-sized videos. Keep up the great work!

[@lynnmckenney1987]

So...I get "calibration value is out of range" when setting the z axis... It also consistently starts printing 1/4" above the bed...no matter what I do. I'm pulling my hair out...what am I doing wrong?

[@azedinerachidy537]

Thank for the video followed you clear instructions but I m waiting for part 3 explaining printer cfg file setup

[@RickyImpey]

Did you watch this video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZqwnGCKqZegd7M I show how to compile a config file for a non-supported printer. I don't cover absolutely everything in the config file but enough to get you setup and running.

[@VSPlum]

I'm planning to switch to Sprite extruder on my Ender 3 v2 with the Sonic Pad connected. I believe, a lot of users will go through the similar process. Can you make a video with advices what and how to do in this case to have all direct extruder and Sonic Pad benefits? Including changes in e-steps, retraction, calibration etc. Thanks :)

[@DEFBOY35]

In the printer config file under extruder it will be rotational distance you want to Change (not e steps). A good starting point would be 8. That got me pretty close to extruding 100mm when I demanded 100. And tweak from there until you are as close to exactly 100 mm

[@nomishome7546]

Hi Ricky, great set of videos, I have a Creality CR-10 Smart Pro and the installation was smooth thanks to your guides, but unlees I missed it, now the pritners is controlled via the sonic pad there is no menu option to shutdown what is the correct process to shutdown the sonic pad and the printer to ensure that there is no software corruption or is it just a case of its save to turn off the sonic pad/printer via the mains.

[@yvonnemitcheson2418]

Thanks so much for your help Ricky. I have failed again. I think someone a lot wiser than I will need to do a detailed video just for the aquila x2 n32 chip. I have run out of solutions. I am doing something wrong but without someone to follow I am lost. I will have to await a good soul to make a video I can follow. It is a new device as yet so someone will do a video. Btw I have written to creality 3 times asking for advice and heard nothing. Disappointed. Grateful for your help and time. Thank you.

[@Sysshad]

Ricky i found some stuff that you might want to make a follow-up video on. Today when printing something on my S1 Pro + Sonic pad that maximized the build area i got the error "Move out of range" in the console. It seems the printer.cfg file has wrong values in it from Creality. For X-axis it says position_max: 245 (should be 235) For Y-axis it says position_max: 230 (should be 235) So i altered these and now it worked to print.. There is also an issue with the 4 bolts in the heatbed, you know the ones the thumb wheels are screwed on. They rotate ! Their bolt heads are not fixed, so if the bolt is a bit damaged (occurs if the bolt hits/scrapes the metal plate hole when often moving up/down) then the thumb wheel wont go up, it only rotates the bolt. So i fixed this with adding another nut before the springs are put on. So now the bolt head and the nut makes the bolt being still :) Thirdly there is this issue with bed mesh that the front of the bed dips down much more then the back, even though it actually doesnt.. I can see my prints first layer being smashed down/pressed down alot more in the front then the back of the bed so the mesh bed leveling is wrong. Have you seen this issue aswell ? Seems to be many ureddit posts about it.

[@gwilder1]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

[@briansrcadventures1316]

Looking at this video again, after having my Sonic Pad set up for a few months, I see that I missed the final adjust Z offset step, where you move the z offset down thee same thickness of the feeler guage! @4:50. That's something I hadn't done, which makes me wonder if that was why my initial layers weren't spot on.

[@richiesapsford4996]

Hi Ricky, just got a sonic pad for my Ender-3 S1 Pro and your videos have been a god send. Thank you. One thing I did notice, I trammed the bed like yours and the bed mesh image shown is like yours, pretty flat. But when I do a print the bed mesh image is totally different to the one I set up and looks like a mountain range. Any ideas

[@robinhudson8749]

After the self test, I set the center z-offset with no issue. After that the extruder buries itself into the PEI sheet during the 4 corner leveling. I loosen the knobs but the surface does not drop down low enough to slide paper in.

[@RickyImpey]

It obviously shouldn't do that. What printer do you have? You can also skip past the manual leveling stage if you want and try moving straight to setting a bed mesh to see if it can.

[@robinhudson8749]

@@RickyImpey sorry for the delayed response. Putting in some OT at work. I ended up starting the manual bed levelling process on the right rear and right front which allowed me to move forward to the auto bed level which worked out great. Dealing with some major clogging issues after having the perfect first few layers laid down.

[@chefjoemac]

I also have a glass bed, and the mesh is far from flat - .4-.5 variance in places... checked it with a straight edge, its flat... ran AL with no glass, same results. Is it a bad sensor?

[@yasin_uyghur]

How can we adjust manually ? some printer which is has auto leveling ? I’m using Ender 3 V3 SE

[@chriseads4791]

Do you know of what steps need to be taken to utilize the ABL mesh ?

[@henkrook4980]

hello, need help! ender6 with bl touch, works well, want to use sonic pad, installation goes well according to manual, until self-test of the fans, then the bed rises against the nozzle, have to switch off the printer, the bl touch does not work during the self-test, how do I do this? Furthermore, I have been looking for advice for a long time, thanks in advance for pointing out a solution. Regards, Henk

[@dennisg8902]

i have watched all your great but i still have a issuse i cant fix i have a ender 3 pro with serial connected sonic pad i get a key 1 restart if i heat the bed over 70 c any help would be great

[@62saki91]

how do you adjust Zed offset by only .01? cause it does 0.05, and mine is betwen 2.73 and 2.78 and i don't want to scratch the bed.

[@Leicesterphoto]

Great series, would be useful to show us how to redo levels with Sonic Pad after initial setup as it is proving to be a pain without resetting the sonic pad. If I tighten all the springs, probe, then go to manual I get no 'play' in the springs, so I untightened the springs by 10 turns, probe, went manual and now my auto calibration is all over the place. What are the steps for redoing bed levelling with the Sonic pad, am I missing a step or doing in wrong order?

[@RickyImpey]

Great idea, I will add it to the list of videos. You can skip past the manual level stage in the initial setup if you don't want to mess with your spring tension too much. After, go to the 'manual level' option in the menu and then just drive the nozzle to each corner to make sure the machine is trammed accurately. Then set a new z offset and then take a new bed mesh. Hope this helps.

[@Leicesterphoto]

@@RickyImpey Much appreciated. Look forward to the video. I deleted the printer and added it again and ran through setup all levelled fine but of course I don't want to do that every time.

[@psygarg]

Have you had the chance to play with the new Nebula Pad, It's been hard to find information in the web, I just got one and I want to use it with and Ender 3 Neo, any advice?

[@RickyImpey]

Not yet unfortunately.

[@jmorgan5519]

I've had an Ender 5 Plus for just under a year, upgraded it with silent board, and Micro Swiss NG Revo but have problems with the z offset. After I start calibration and it gets into the front left corner the probe is off the base and and I have to turn it off to prevent a crash. I get a "No trigger on probe after full movement" error. Solution guide says, locate the hardware problem according to the error report details. I can't get past this point.

[@nazgul203]

I followed all the steps but still cannot print 😢 it shows "key112" error code, please help

[@horn10178]

i could use some help generating firmware keeps stalling it worked once now it just doesnt want to work

[@andremenelau2541]

Dear Ricky, I purchased a Sonic Pad, I spent 1 month to discover that it was a defect in the cable. Then the flat cable on the Ender 5 S1 also had a problem. Finally I installed it and saw that you instructed me to CALIBRATE THE Z AXIS, DO THE MANUAL CALIBRATION, THEN THE AUTOMATIC CALIBRATION AND FINALLY THE Z AXIS CALIBRATION AGAIN, only with the nozzle touching the table. I did the step by step and still when I use a table calibration printout, the distance is not correct. I move the table manually and calibrate again. When I print again the error persists. As if the printer compensated for the movement of the table to maintain the distance. What do I do?

[@Sysshad]

Thanks for video, but why did you need to recalibrate it again after the menus came up

[@HighT3ch]

Hello, thanks for the information provided. Can I ask what is the hotend shroud/mount installed on this printer?

[@RickyImpey]

Hi, this is the Minimus Cooler: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4uVf32cnNKMj7c

[@harrywallace5213]

Hi Rickey, great videos, pal. I've just acquired a Sonic Pad and trying to setup with my Ender 3 Max using your videos. My Ender 3 Max has a CR-Touch installed. The only 'standard' printer option is the Ender 3 Max, no CR-Touch version and it doesn't work with the CR-Touch. I've tried the Ender 3 Neo Max. Ender 2 v2, etc. All to no avail. Any advice would be welcome?

[@cityhunter25]

thank you for this video!! helped me a lot during my setup, watched the whole series!! recently though I have this problem that happened all of a sudden. I dont know if you ever encountered it. I am not able anymore to adjust my z offset during print anymore. when I press down or up, it does not respond to the printer and my prints fail. I tried doing a reset of sonic pad and still same problem. would you have an idea or encountered something like this before? Thank you!!

[@Lemmingski]

Need one more increment: 0.01mm (I stand by my fastidiousness.) Can I use console commands during this calibration to help? Like can I use: G92 G1 Z-0.01 (however many times necessary) Then hit OK to save the position as my Z offset?

[@Lemmingski]

Never mind. I've never done a level and offset that didn't need live adjustment during the first layer print. :-P Fortunately, the Sonic Pad THEN allows 0.01mm adjustments.

[@grrmisfit]

trying this and I cant get my z offset low enough, i get to a certain point and it seems to reach machine limits tho I had zero issues with marlin, only the pad and klipper it seems

[@baudeliomeraz1362]

When I tighten my screws the bed is so far down that I run out of z travel for adjusting the "probe calibration"

[@Giorgio_Venturini]

First of all congratulations great videos. I just bought the Sonic Pad. I have recently entered the world of 3d printing and I started my first experiences with my Flsun Q5 printer. Now I would like to use the Pad on it since it is already supported by the pad. But before installing I wonder, how to behave with the leveling, given that being a delta I have a fixed plate and practically I only have 3 z axes ... Can you explain me how to do also about how to use the input shaper probe on my printer. Thank you

[@imadjawad4408]

Hi Ricky, when I start the bed mesh the nozzle level sensor goes slightly out of the bed, causes the nozzle to hit the bed hard, :( need your help, thanks :)

[@grandmasteryoda3187]

im using an ender 5 s1 and for some reason during the final bed leveling configuration of the connection test, the prob appears to miss the bed entirely, how do i adjust the work area parameters?

[@mematitr]

I operate my Neptune 3 pro with the Sonic pad. I have one question: if I have to calibrate the printer, which order do I have to follow? first the bed mesh leveling or the z offset?

[@LutherDot]

My Z offset won't save. Any ideas?

[@user-lq2pe6lw7o]

Hi Ricky, will you be able to advise how to install a glass bed onto Ender 3 S 1 Pro? I removed my magnetic one (gold) but there are two screws on the top or the bed. The glass bed doesn't have any holes to fit it properly. Should I remove the screws or how can I upgrade my 3S1 pro with a glass bed or drill the holes (probably this will damage the plate...)?or leave the gap and adjust the mesh ? I am having horrible trouble with my magnetic bed when I am trying to calibrate it with a sonic pad. So I gave up on printing because everything is coming out bad :(

[@distracteddiy9719]

My glass bed looks like the Rocky Mountains...

[@salemcripple]

Will this work with an original Ender 3 (non pro). Also what to do if you have solid bed mounts on said printer?

[@RickyImpey]

Yes, it works with all Ender 3s, With solid mounts, you will have to just skip the manual leveling section and go straight to creating a bed mesh.

[@RAY-NOGUES]

Hello, I love your videos. I have a problem with my Sonic PAd and my Artillery x1 I can't get the filament sensor to work, the machine doesn't stop when the filament runs out. I have tried thousands of Codes and none of them work could you help me. many thanks for everything

[@lesthegringo]

I got my Ender 3 S1 Plus last week, and the Sonic Pad with it, and very much like the setup apart from the PEI bed becoming delaminated in the center. As a result I now can't use the printer until I get the new PEI sheet being sent under warranty, even for testing as the damage is right where the pre print ABL happens and the sensor touches. So, is there any way to adjust where the ABL checks the bed pre-print so that I can at least do filament calibration tests?

[@RickyImpey]

Sorry to hear you've had issues, could you not flip the bed surface over and print on the back in the short term?I don't have the Plus so don't know what the back surface is like.

[@lesthegringo]

Thanks for the reply - the back is just bare spring steel, plus I am not sure how the detached area would affect the seating of the plate. If I can change where it senses it would be usable

[@Giorgio_Venturini]

HI. Could you make a video for the installation, calibrations and configurations of the Pad for delta printers, especially the Flsun Q5. I can't find any videos or tutorials about it. I trust in your competence and availability. Thanks

[@RickyImpey]

I have my first Delta printer on the way so it's definitely something I'll be looking to do

[@Giorgio_Venturini]

​@@RickyImpey Thank you it will be greatly appreciated

[@dancoon7653]

Thank you again for these videos. I was just wondering what the steps are at this point to setup a non creality printer. I'll be setting it up on my CR6SE first but would like it working on my Neptune 3 Plus at some point and I'm not sure if it will have options for the six leveling wheels on that printer.

[@RickyImpey]

Hi, did you watch this video on how to setup a non-Creality machine? kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZqwnGCKqZegd7M

[@chasexward]

I have an Ender 3 pro 4.2.2 with a BL Touch. When setting up the pad I keep getting the Error Message “Touch Failed to Deploy”. I installed the BL touch over a year ago and it worked fine with Marlin. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to fix this? Also… when powering on the machine the probe goes up and down normally, so I’m not sure why with the new firmware it is acting like it can’t.

[@oriont2003]

Thanks!

[@paulsneem7067]

Ricky, the videos are great. One question I have is regarding the final Z offset setting. After using the feeler gauge, you then lower the offset the thickness of the feeler gauge, basically eliminating the gap. Before watching the video, I've been setting the gap for a slight drag with a .2mm feeler gauge and then leaving it that way and haven't' had any bed adhesion issues. When eliminating the gap, is the pad or klipper compensating for this, meaning the nozzle on my first layer is actually .2mm too high??? Thanks again for the videos.

[@ode4492]

Have you come to a conclusion on this? I just posted a comment asking pretty much the same question then scrolled down and saw this. All other z offset settings I've seen you lower the z to whatever "gap" you want and that's it. That gap becomes your offset. I don't understand why you'd want to send an additional command to close this, unless klipper compensates?

[@dosdont]

"Don't panic" ya, that would be me

[@technodrone313]

i renamed mine from creality sonic pad to chronicpad

[@splint1872012]

So what about the sensor? Did i miss you explaining how to install the sensor?

[@RickyImpey]

I cover this in the intermediate series. Coming soon👍 You don't need the sensor connected to print, it's just for tuning.

[@splint1872012]

Why wouldn’t creality include directions on how to install it?

[@swishtos]

Is there a way is connect sovolsv04 to sonic pad

[@B0BB0S0]

Would you happen to know what the error code “key60” means?

[@jeffjacobs9616]

Is that the bed_mesh_set_disabled or something like that.

[@plugger410]

When I do my bed mesh, most of it comes out fine, but my back right corner gives 0.24, 0.23, 0.20, 0.10, 0.10 as the readings in the far right column. Do you correct this with the manual adjustment wheel?

[@RickyImpey]

Personally, being a bit of a perfectionist, I would probably tweak it a little and run the levelling again to try and improve things. However, the bed mesh should compensate so you can try a print designed to test your first layer and see if it works ok. Be aware that there seems to be a bug with the Ender 3 S1 Pro where it seems to use the bed mesh when you run through the Manual Leveling procedure which messes things up. If you plan to use the Manual Leveling, I would clear your bed mesh first using the web UI.

[@plugger410]

@@RickyImpey thanks so much! I know everyone keeps saying it, but your videos are an insanely great resource for all of this set up!

[@mikevsamy]

I'm wondering why you set the z-offset to minus the thickness of the feeler gauge at the end? Doesn't that mean the nozzle will now be touching the bed?

[@timoteiNitrogen]

Yeah i dont understand that either!

[@mikevsamy]

@@timoteiNitrogen I worked it out. The Z offset is only the distance from the probe to the nozzle. Not from the bed. That's why you remove the thickness of the guage from the value.

[@JAL0571]

i like the way your videos help exlore the minefield that is 3d printing. however, despite following your video three times and resetting the sonic pad twice, my bed is still nowhere near level' i had no levelling issues before buying the pad so i'm probably on the verge of binning it and going back to basic printing. shame really as i was looking forward to a new challenge.

[@timoteiNitrogen]

It doesnt need to be super level, thats what you got your mesh for. Glass is going to be much flatter, for example my PEI sheet and bed sucks and dips in the middle, so i just got a piece of paper under the middle to raise it by 0.1mm.

[@danielharris3827]

I have a sprite extruder on my ender 3 pro. When I try to do the initial bed level, my probe is off the print bed.

[@RickyImpey]

Do you have the latest firmware on your Sonic Pad? I believe they have added sprite config options. I haven't tried myself. If not, the home position is set in the printer.cfg file. Look for the 'home_xy_position' line in the [safe_z_home] section.

[@danielharris3827]

how do I edit the .cfg? The pad gives me a .bin I do have the latest firmware on the pad, I even read the change log where they talk about being able to select a sprite extruder, But it is not available in the initial set up

[@danielharris3827]

@@RickyImpey appreciate the response btw

[@efraingonzalez4642]

I have an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus Delta printer, how would you go about setting up in sonicpad? would sonicpad know how to handle a Delta printer? I also have a CR10 V3 connected already to the sonicpad, but I find that I alway hate to manually turn off ad turn on the original controller to get it to communicate everytime the sonicpad restarts, is there a fix for that?

[@js3dp]

I'm guessing yes. Flsun V400 uses Klipper and it is a delta printer.

[@augustinbendjama3183]

Hi thanks a lot for all these video ! Im facing an issue I use ender 3v2 with some upgrade as : -Sprite Extruder Pro Kit -BL touch And during bed leveling I dont find a way to set correctly my Prob position so it goes in completly wrong position and sometimes out of the bed . How can I configure my X and Y BLTOUCH Offset from the sonic pad ? Thx a lot amazing work keep going

[@RickyImpey]

This, like most parameters is set in the config file. You access it through the web UI and even edit and save it there too. I'm not at my computer to check the exact lines to edit right now but I'll have a look when I am. Have a look though, you may see it straight away.

[@augustinbendjama3183]

@@RickyImpey After a day of research and stuff Ive finnaly found some solution to my issues :) Still waiting for your in depth video for more info :) thx

[@danielharris3827]

@@augustinbendjama3183 could you share your solution, as I have an E3P with a sprite and ABL. Cant do the initial set up on my sonic pad, probe is off print bed.

[@11x11z11x11]

Is that a feeler gauge you're using ? not managed to find one with a long handle like that.

[@RickyImpey]

I have no idea where I got it i'm afraid. I've had it forever and it has no markings for a brand.

[@btiphotography5292]

You could probably get something suitable from a car parts store.

[@skeetterday]

Can someone please help me??? After I start calibration and it gets into the front left corner the probe is off the bas and crashed the head. I get a "No trigger on probe after full movement" error. Solution guide says, locate the hardware problem according to the error report details. I can't get past this point. I know I'm overlooking something so simple but just can't figure it out for the life of me... Can someone please throw me a line???

[@RickyImpey]

Sorry for the delay, all you need to do is change the z_offset and y_offset figures under the [Bl touch] section in your config file. What printer do you have? Do you know how to edit the config file?

[@DeanRobinson1]

@@RickyImpey Sorry to hijack the thread but I have the same issue on an Ender 5 S1 - any idea how to fix this? I'm concerned I'm either going to break the printer head or have bricked the printer :(

[@navyskiier]

@@RickyImpey I'm running into the same problem with the Anycubic Vyper... also would like help with the config file, if possible Thanks! Your videos are AWESOME!

[@jmorgan5519]

@@RickyImpey Hi < I also have this issue with an Ender 5 Plus with Micro Swiss NG Revo direct drive, did you manage to find a solution to this problem?

[@miketargaryen1210]

Hi Ricky, When I try to complete the z offset I get the following error:- error on 'z_offset': 'touch' must have a minimum of 0.0 once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "restart" command to reload the config and restart the host software. printer is halted My offset is a negative number but now I can't save this please can you help?

[@RickyImpey]

Check your position_min figure in the stepper z section of your config file. If this figure is larger than you z offset then it may cause the error.

[@miketargaryen1210]

@@RickyImpey ok will take a look at this later. 👍🏻

[@miketargaryen1210]

Hey man, thanks for your help so far I have tried what you suggested but it hasn't helped. Regardless of what I have the Z offset set to I get the error.. Even if the value is positive

[@miketargaryen1210]

I'm assuming that you're not able to help, I'm hoping that you can 🤞🏻

[@davidcastellanos2492]

My sonic pad wont get past the error code. What a bummer

[@RickyImpey]

What is the error code? It usually tells you what needs fixing.

[@DEFBOY35]

Tried going through the initial set up last night. And as soon as it starts it cuts out and gives me a message about webhooks request.

[@RickyImpey]

That sounds like a fault and not something i've encountered I'm afraid.

[@DEFBOY35]

Figured out it was any time the hot end would try to heat up. Finally I tried setting the hot end 5 degrees above ambient and it allowed it to heat up. Bumped up by increments of 5-10 degrees up to 280 and it finally allowed it to print afterwards. Not sure what the actual issue was. But that managed to eliminate it for me.

[@RickyImpey]

@@DEFBOY35 have you done a PID tune? It sounds like you have a thermal runaway error. A PID tune should fix this.

[@DEFBOY35]

@@RickyImpey I was able to do the pid tune after I had done the steps above. It has been a bit interesting to say the least to try and get this set up. Getting closer though. I am scared to shut it off though. As I had lost my entire cfg the last time I did. Even after multiple saves and had to Go through the whole process again.

[@RickyImpey]

@@DEFBOY35 it definitely shouldn't lose the cfg file when powered off. Save a backup copy of the file if you connect with a web UI if you are concerned.

[@mackbolan1733]

Genuine question - why after having gone through the bed levelling process that the Sonic Pad takes you through, do you then need to go into the Probe Calibration function and make a further adjustment to the Z offset. I'm just a little confused as the software does not ask you to do this???

[@iancooper5987]

Great series of videos which I will definitely follow when I get to install my Sonic Pad. Will I have to keep the original touchscreen plugged in to my S1 Pro once the Pad is up and running. Being able to remove it along with the mount would give me a little more room on my work area.