Converting pump it up pads to the new bracketless arrow style from CX and TX machines

[@evo_pakito]

epic! This should make the pad much smoother. Didyou get all the parts from arcade spare parts?

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

I linked to where to buy everything in the description with the exception of electrical tape and gorilla glue. The glue holds down the sensors, and the electric tape is a sort of cushion to protect the non metal components from being damaged by metal components, It also makes the panels a lot quieter and smoother to step on, even slightly more responsive.

[@evo_pakito]

nice! sorry for not checking the description :x anyway, you did rock there, Bro, maybe in the next few years I'll purchase a pad, this will be a "sine qua non" modification!

[@evo_pakito]

Just came back here to say that I have my cab for almost a year now, and I did this same modification on it, it's just awesome! Thank you again for sharing so much :)

[@goddish8065]

Now that some time has passed, has your opinion at all changed? Im hoping to do a full conversion sometime in the future but am curious if your fears of the plastic frames breaking ever became a serious issue Thanks!

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

The frames actually still work just fine. The ddr cabinet has done a full conversion as well and is now bracketless curtsey of Ashley philbrick :3 Yeah I wish they were metal but man they are great

[@ketafol]

Where is the best place to buy (official) parts for this conversion?

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

Either arcadespareparts or Ashley Philbrick on Facebook, she has a page for bracketless conversions for DDR and piu, makes the arrows and everything herself.

[@ketafol]

What are your thoughts on this upgrade now that you've had them a while? I'm considering the upgrade and debating new "old style" set $200ish vs going all out and upgrading to the new style.

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

ketafol I love it. the center replacement makes the pads play incredibly smooth and 100% recommend it if you prefer this style of panel, but again. I only suggest the center panel so you keep durability on the other 4 panels

[@ketafol]

Nirvash OH GOD ITS GOING TO RAPE ME That's interesting that you qualify the recommendation. I would agree that plastic is definitely less durable than steel, but the change had me wondering if maybe steel in that particular spot isn't redundant. If your center panels have held up, any reason to think the side panels would experience more wear?

[@ketafol]

Nirvash OH GOD ITS GOING TO RAPE ME Also, do you think going completely bracketless improves gameplay at all? I play a lot of freestyle but otherwise only play "hard" can't do much in the way of "crazy" and "nightmare" yet

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

ketafol honestly completely bracketless makes no difference to me, only remove your 4 inner brackets and replace the center arrow and it will feel great. I even have players come over doing d25s barefoot with no complaints. so, I feel that this is the right direction

[@ketafol]

Nirvash OH GOD ITS GOING TO RAPE ME ok.... if you had old grungy acrylics and were forced to choose: New set of old style or completely bracketless... which would you pick?

[@pumpitupstepxx3102]

Hola solo una duda como consigo esos cuadros para poder hacerlo como tu amigo me gustaría saber porfavor 🙏🙏🙏 saludos

[@edgaralejandrohernandez4392]

en una pagina llamada ddr pad o en arcade spare parts, se buscan como switch frames

[@Gh0st8.6]

I followed your direction and did a completed conversion kit but my arrows still make squeaky noises as I play. Anything I can do to solve that?

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

that depends entirely on what is squeaking, it could be the metal where it comes into contact with the frame, or any number of objects. My pads were squeaking from rubbing together (p1 and p2 side) so I went to the hardware store and got a giant roll of vinyl flooring, and cut it into a shape to go between the pads, and another for the front and back braces. that solved that, but then my metal panels started squeaking for some reason, so I put pieces of paper between some, electric tape under others, etc, until I found out what worked for my problem. Youll just have to experiment.

[@Gh0st8.6]

@@TheLittleCuteThing Make sense. From my understanding, it's only P1 that's making squeaky noises as I'm pressing the arrows but P2 seems to be good. Currently waiting on my indoor and outdoor 3m tape to arrive and o rings so I can do that experiment with the 5134 screws you recommended and also, cover the metal wall with some tesla tape and hopefully, I won't run into any more rubber ducky noises.

[@Gh0st8.6]

@@TheLittleCuteThing Update: Got P1 to stop squeaking. P2, only center and bottom left arrow has minor squeak but I gave up after trying multiple attempt. Curiosity, with the new arrow, is it recommended to electrical tape the bottom arrow corner to protect the picture like similar to the old arrows?

[@ABMR666]

What kind of phillip screw do you use in the metal plates in order to get it smoth? I've recently made this upgrade, but my trainers get stuck with the default screws...

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

I use panheads for the arrows that are bracketless. everything else I use countersunk screws.

[@ABMR666]

@@TheLittleCuteThing Thanks! I'll keep that in mind. I've read some datasheet, and I've noticed that the head thickness in the allen screws is greater than the Phillips, so I think it may work better to flatten the surface.

[@ov3jo]

Recently bought a full set of TX C-Frames and arrows, but i can't get the arrows sensitive and flushed with the dead panels without compromising the sensor to get stuck. What you do to get that level of flush? Thanks ;)

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

It varies based on where you want it raised. you can put stuff under the replacement frames to raise the frame itself if you want the arrows higher without having to put too much pressure on the sensor. Tape in the corners, etc. im not really sure what I did that wasnt covered in this / my 100% maintenance video.

[@stevengzz918]

we put flat washers under the holes in the corners of the frames as well as wooden sticks far and wide equally under the frames (like those used by doctors to check the mouth), this makes the steps more raised. Another tip is scraping the sensor holder from the top to expose the sensor and give it sensitivity. Hope those tips help.

[@MasterHarlequin]

Hey! So this is really cool, I'm looking to do something similar. I guess to save money I can sell my current panels to help with the cost of the new ones. Roughly how much does a full conversion cost? Cool video btw!

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

Full conversion would cost about 500-600 USD before shipping (Which would run around 100-300 USD) But... Honestly I dont suggest it, The new frames are cheap plastic, the old ones are solid steel and most likely will never break. I suggest you just do what I did in this video and only do the center one with the innerbrackets on the outer 4 arrows removed. It may seem "cheap" but, trust me when I say it is a much better direction to go in the longrun, unless you absolutely want to upgrade to the new style. Think it over before you invest the money.

[@banjoxtrem]

O_O very nice !

[@tails64dsntchannel8]

wow, CX Style frames are actually designed like shit, i'd still prefer countersinking brackets and routing panels.

[@delrachdubal]

The New Pads are Kind of Garbage and here's why. God forbid you have big Feet and Play on Normal Judgment, the Timing window's spacing becomes a huge problem especially on 16th notes at 170 BPM. Sometimes my Feet accidently hits where the Bracket use to be for the 5 panels.... now on the older pads that's fine, on the newer ones.... it actually triggers the arrow..... this is bad because if the accidental arrow you hit while going for another one is triggered, and if that arrow so happens to even be not so Far away from the judgment window, due to the Timing Window it can cause Goods and Bads. You can reduce the timing window via HJ (Hard Judgment) Which is what nearly everyone does to try to combat this problem, but it's still here. The older pads are so Much better for accurate 16th note runs at 170-200BPM+ and the like, but the Pads will of course need modding for the older ones to make brackets and 3's easier. That's the only thing that's Good about the New Pad Design. Other than that, Due to panels and corners of each arrow no longer having a metal bracket, it's completely tanked my scores due to my playstyle. Cannot SSS anything pass a 12 or 13 without getting robbed of a Good or Bad somewhere due to this new shitty pad design (Or well, the overall new Design since Prime came out)

[@TheLittleCuteThing]

Main complained from me regarding newer pads is they are too light weight from the lack of steel, causing them to bounce during higher level gameplay. Heavier would be more stable and responsive

[@delrachdubal]

@@TheLittleCuteThing Yes, maybe some new sensors, old pad Design but remove 1 bracket for each arrow nearest the center, while leaving the center brackets on (I'd be insane enough to experiment without if i had a machine, but maybe the panels would be loose and move more?) But for a first test, some really good sensors, and the tape mod to help sensitivity but not so much that of course a sensor locks up or doing stream runs become hard due to sensitivity issues. I'm trying to adapt and change my entire playstyle and it's just crazy lol.