Convincing Grumpy Home Built 3D Printer Into Making Prototype Parts

I have been building and testing several designs of a servo powered robotic gripper appendages. Although my final product will be cut much larger and into a more durable material using a Techno CNC router. I like to start by printing and testing experiments in ABS plastic using the Maker Farm, Prussia 3D printer Design. This temperamental printer that I put together from a kit needs some adjustments so that there is not as much clean up on the finished parts and also so they look better. This video follows my continued progress as I learn on go. All of this testing and prototyping is part of a much larger project that I will unveil as time progresses.
Products Used in Video (Shop on Amazon via these links and helps support the channel) : Prussia 3D printers: amzn.to/2QFo6BR
Arduino Uno: amzn.to/39XiPgA
Mini Servos: amzn.to/39RNvj7
3d printer abs plastic: amzn.to/2uAaGhU
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[@truetech4158]

Can see that lightweight robot gripper being used in a GuruGrow3000+, as it sails along a track with a small arm, placing freshly rooted clippings in lines on grow tubes, after it picks up and removes a fully grown weed plant from each growsocket. You return home after travelling the world, and find all these 3d plastic bins, just filled with the madman.

[@Doomjunkie]

I run a CR_10s. I run the latest version of Cura and Marlin. I upgraded to mostly Noctua hotend and control box fans, MicroSwiss hotend, hardened steel nozzles, and I use Aquanet extra super hold on a glass plate. You seem to be printing really fast. Slow down a bit to get better quality prints. In cura, turn on a feature called 'Ironing". Get a TEMPERED glass piece for your bed. I am able to print PolyCarbon with the heating element upgrade in the hotend as well. I am now working on Carbon Fiber/Poly Carbon. My goal is to be able to print with PEEK. Poly Ethyl Ethyl Ketone. PEEK is what NASA uses on spacecraft and Doctors use PEEK to replace bones and skull parts. I could go on but I should probably stop geeking out and get busy.

[@jameskappel]

looking forward to the next one

[@UndernetSystems]

You should be using the latest version of cura and manually transferring your settings to it. Cura 4.x has some really neat features and optimizations. You should also switch that servo auto bed leveling for a bltouch.

[@apollorobb]

I use Cura 15.x.x on mine also with a Custom Marlin firmware The Printer is a ANET A8 that has been upgraded pretty extensively

[@drifter82935]

Have you tried using Aqua Net extra super hold hair spray on your glass plate? That is what I use and it works great. I saturate my glass plate and as the heat bed warms up the hairspray sets and my parts stick great and pop free once the plate cools down. I spray the plate with every print and once hair spray deposits get too thick I wash the plate in the dishwasher and that cleans it all off. You can also just soak the plate in warm water for a while and scrub it off with a rag if you don't want to use a dishwasher.

[@pintsizegrfx]

Pretty cool!

[@billlester3088]

interesting video, mind sharing the ammonia/water ratio

[@builtrodewreckedit]

adding more pieces of glass isn't the problem. if the plastic sticks super well when it shrinks it will break the glass even very thick glass will break

[@HagerHay]

In this video you show your Z zero micro switch that makes adjustment to the z position as it checks nine places, do you have a link or the official name of the device?

[@GuruBrew]

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