CPP Mini subframe and Viking coil overs install part 2

CPP mini subframe kit install and rambling about odd old suspension designs... www.classicperform.com
Link to my Amazon wishlist if you want to support the project.
www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls...

[@rickstevenson7483]

Thank you Robert for the information.

[@deankay4434]

Many use sandbags on the front to compress the spring. We have 7" of snow the AM so sandbags for everyone. Just not front drive cars as I have had that! True. DK, Omaha.

[@deankay4434]

Some additional instructions maybe required if their is no engine, transmission or mother in law standing on crossmember while installing coil overs. I would be looking for some ratcheting straps and see if they could be installed. Wrap chain around crossmember or frame and attach to floor anchors cast in the concrete. Another trick I use what buddy had, was a simple floor jack and length of tow chain or nylon strap. Place strap under floor jack, over frame / crossmember and a 4X4 block of wood under lower ball joint, It is an anti-gravity device or pusher upper device. You know you want it on the car baby so do it! DK, Retired ASE Master tech.

[@oldcarsstronghearts]

Hope you are better soon! Chuckled at the line about you & gravity needing to have a discussion. ;) If I lived closer, I'd be your assistant.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

Much better thanks, that lingering drip and sinus gunk takes a long time to go away. Even though we have way too many people moving here I think you would be happier and safer here... Seems everyone I know is always at least a 2hr flight away... :)

[@oldcarsstronghearts]

@@theinfernalcraftsman If only moving wasn't so expensive in so many ways. :) Glad you are much better!

[@donthompson2188]

As for shock length, seems like they want the shock to limit how far down the suspension can travel. After all, you do not want the spring coming out when the suspension is fully extended. Good idea adding those rear lower control arm adjusters. It will allow you to not only get caster and camber but also the wheel base / position of the wheel.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

There are specs for each shock and it's recommended spring height. The spring is 1" longer than they recommend which is OK as that measurement is with a spring retainer on the shock itself. But with the shock tower reaching up even further it could use a longer shock or a shorter spring. But... Trying to get that combination would mean custom made springs or a custom made shock. Basically most kits for all cars are making use of whatever off the shelf parts they can put together. Not a perfect selection but it works. I could spend an hour going over it in a video but unless you can make custom parts it doesn't really matter. Basically like putting together a combination of lego parts and making the best of the sizes.

[@swooshdave]

A couple things. I had the same question about the shock length. But I put the rears on first (also the Vikings) and had to jack the rear end up to mount the shock. So the rear end was hanging from the shock. I too was concerned. I asked the vendor and the forum and both reassured me this was correct and not a big deal. Statically hanging from the shock is not an issue. The shocks are far more strong that you (or I) think. It only becomes an issue if you are jumping the car (which neither you or I will be doing). For off road rigs that they do jump the dynamic forces need to be accommodated with limited straps and bump stops. But for the street of you are dynamically extending the shocks the least of your worries will be the shocks... If you watch my video you will see that top pin HAS to be installed off the vehicle as it has to be compressed to get the circlips on. You can try to do it on the car but do you really hate yourself that much? Those shock tower caps do not need to be installed first. (you do need to install the bolts as the springs sort of hold them in place as the springs are definitely in the way) I'm not sure why you feel the caps need to be installed before the shocks. The caps are shaped so they will fit around the shock top (assuming you compress the suspension). Also they make billet caps but better yet are the ones from Hotchkiss which look dead sexy. But it seems you are trying to be more subtle than that. If your goal is to also lower the car (since you can easily) then most likely the factory outer shock tower covers (which house the bump stop) will not work (or it will work but greatly limit your suspension travel). I went with these Global West units that give you the suspension range. www.globalwest.net/ts-25t.html Sadly I spend more on the parts you can't see than the ones you can. I think I made a mistake in using the Shelby drop in the front with this suspension and may move the upper arms back to the stock position. I wasn't able to get a decent answer from CPP what effect the drop would have. Otherwise another fantastic video. You really take the time to explain each step and your thinking. And lastly... just get the rear shocks. The ability to adjust them makes a tremendous difference in controlling the rear end.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

There is allot more to the spring length issue but it would take too long to cover and few would find it usable. It'll be Ok in the end but not ideal but you have to work with available sizes. My sinuses were still pretty congested when filming hence the more than usual forgetting stuff etc. I was able to use a ratchet strap and pull the lower arm up and using the other shock with the cross piece installed the cap *can* be put on... As for the Global West stuff. Have always liked their stuff and have used their upper arms for GM cars in the past. Very nice stuff and well engineered. Ride height is going to be dictated by the rear springs I bought... The shelby/Arning drop looses about .5" since the spring is in the middle of the arm but in our case the ride height is adjustable anyway. It does more to impact camber curve. I will be adding the adjustment to the rear/factory arm position as I want as much adjustability as possible. I don't want to have to settle or fight to get the angles I want. When the car gets down on the ground and closer to driving I'll look into the rear shocks. No fancy rear suspension kit for this car. Maybe the next one.

[@swooshdave]

@@theinfernalcraftsman The camber curved is impacted by the drop but assuming the stock upper arm length. I didn’t check to see if the CCP arm is different in any dimensions.

[@jimsams4568]

You have to have the cars weight on the coil spring to be able to make the top shock connection.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

That's what the shock manufacturer and I were talking about. Since the spring is going to have about 2" of compression before there is any weight on them that's about 900lbs per side. Might be an issue getting it to the preferred ride height and installed spring height etc. It's an odd application and you have to use what off the shelf springs and shocks are available and hope for a combo that works or have custom made parts made. Will see what happens when it's on it's wheels again. There are shorter springs available that I may have to switch to in order to get the spring rate ride height and installed spring height all correct but dunnow at the moment.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Great info and demonstration. I do like this setup. Can the upper mount be shorter? The bolt on piece? I'm jealous about the rotisserie.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

No reason the upper shock mount can't be made shorter. Found a few aftermarket ones and there Is one made specifically for these shocks from another vendor. My back thanks me every time I work on the car that I built the rotisserie.

[@chucksgarage7165]

At 4:02 you said "Anti-sneeze'. Sorry, it was just funny!

[@gostbr]

Where did you buy the ball joint taper adapter?

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

They come with the mini subframe kit. I would assume they sell them separately in case you loose them.

[@jeffadams713]

My kit from CPP did not include those tapered sleeves, but i definitely need them....I wonder if anyone has a part number for those?@@theinfernalcraftsman

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

@@jeffadams713 I'll check this afternoon if there is a part number in my documentation. I have read that others that have bought the kit in the past didn't get them either and had to call them and they would mail them out. IIRC mine were already on the ball joint and not in a separate bag.

[@mavmo192]

Get past it.