CPP Subframe install in 66 Mustang

Subframe install didn't go a planned. But is being taken care of.
An overview to my Rotisserie build. • Shop built Rotisserie ...
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[@crashwrtr6078]

Famous last words "half-way done". Hope it is but things never seem to go as planned. Good video.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

It's not a difficult install at all but there were some gotchas and oddities that I will talk about in the next video with the shock install. Hopefully I'll have the replacement subframe in next week. But in the end I will be very happy with the system.

[@JoefussGarage-jl1bb]

Gotta love it, warts and all !!! Old cars, and new stuff, are never a perfect match... This a full custom hobby kinda thing. The sooner we all accept that, and move on, the better.

[@oldcarsstronghearts]

For me, it's just good to see a new video from you! :)

[@laleena_daqueena3130]

I keep after him to get new videos out. Lol

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

Yeah I know....

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Good information. I still like the setup.

[@donsmanufactory]

Yes, so many unanswered questions. I’ll be patient and await the next installment. Your rig is definitely cleaner to work on than Betsy.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

Yeah it'll wrap up in the next video when I get the replacement part in. All that new steel up front has it's benefits but I would rather it have been factory steel. The factory frame rails and aprons and rad support is sitting outside the shop just in case I need steel for stuff.

[@swooshdave]

That misaligned slot is not good. Before I drilled holes I had the lower arms installed and bolted. I insured that the lower arms moved very smoothly (for me I made sure they could drop under their own weight) and then I did finally clamping and drilling. Bolting into the radiator support is a giant pain on a driving car. Piece of cake when it’s stripped.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

Yeah you can see that arm I had the trouble with was the one that the front mount was off and it messed up the alignment of the rear one. Yeah it's allot easier with the car upside down and bare. Not really stripped as that's all new steel so it hasn't been built yet... Putting it on a car without having it on a lift would not be fun. And that slot is off more than I showed it's actually out of line with the car front to rear which was what caused the subframe to be pushed off to the side a little.

[@anthonyk1234]

Thank you for making these videos, they are very helpful and really help the at home guy. Question, is the subframe/floor the fully assembled one from national parts depot?

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

No problem The better half gets on me when I don't post videos... I looked at NPDs site and I didn't see it on there. They may sell it but I just missed it. Though I did get distracted by the rack and pinion kits....

[@laleena_daqueena3130]

@@theinfernalcraftsman Truth

[@deankay4434]

With new sheet metal parts welded to make new front end, I would spent a great deal of quality time with a tape measure. Front to rear, X-Pattern for square and side to side. If you did, I apologize as I have to many videos where things are correct, yet "CCP" parts don't fit, come out crooked or the alignment tech down the street starts calling you names! You a thought! Shiny powder coated parts on a semi-gloss uni-frame. I think that is illegal in 18 states! 😮 DK.

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

Yup. Fortunately I had a stripped near perfect 66 to reference for all the metal placement and hours of double checking and test fitting the entire front end of the car. The issue with the sub frame was one of the brackets was welded on crooked which you can see in the picture. It was on a slight angle and off to the side a hare. It's much more visible in person and the manufacturer was the one that wanted it sent back into them when they saw the pics of it. Honestly nothing a little smoothing with a die grinder won't fix but they wanted it back. No biggie it happens from time to time in production, probably just slipped out of the jig a hare and wasn't noticed.

[@deankay4434]

@@theinfernalcraftsman Just a couple of helpful tips. I went my entire career with a small set of "De-Burring" bits & handles. Boy, what a difference even from Harbor Freight. Also, I have never owned a carbide but set for porting heads of ob-longing holes. I take a rat-tail file, Chuck it into a drill, place a pipe on one end to guide it and gently run it both directions to slot a hole. I did this on 4 cylinder engines cast exhaust manifold to allow movement room on an aluminum head. Guys on forums complain all the time about the "LS" engine family. Even stainless steel headers have little to no room for expansion. I dress the outside (Nut or bolt head head) flat and smooth then place a flat washer. This allows it to stay torqued with proper clamping force, yet no breakage! GM, Toyota and Chrysler-Fiat have the same issue. You would think engineers would know better. But when working with GM on contract thru Raytheon, an engineer told me that as old engineers retired or took a retirement package offer, new younger guys / gals came in and made the same mistakes from 25-30 years ago! Oh well! DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.

[@kevindwenger2182]

DO you have caster adjustment with system

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

There is the same amount of caster adjustment as there is stock. However I modified the lower control arms in a later video to have adjustment like the 67+. So now I have adjustment all over the place to deal with any misalignment and the ability to easily get alignment specs that I want in the car.

[@FINfinFINfinFINfin]

Is the subframe chicom?

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

US made just a easy to miss alignment issue when it was jigged for welding. It's a nice heavy piece and looking forward to getting the car off the body cart and on the ground.