Making 3D prints actually waterproof

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- Our 3D printer (FDM) FlashForge M5 Pro: www.flashforgeshop.com/produc...
- Dichtol AM Hydro: www.diamant-polymer.de/en/sho...
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[@CPSdrone]

Here are all the models from the video: www.printables.com/model/768471-waterproof-3d-printing-tests-oceangate-titan Have fun and don't make full scale models!

[@czaro8006]

Studenci PG na Traugutta? 🤣

[@OneHappyCrazyPerson]

Whahahaha oceangate test models 😂😂

[@johnnyrocket3200]

Pro Tip: When staying in one unit, positions after the decimal point are called out one by one. So 0.25g is "zero point two five gramm" otherwise good luck with pi. ;-) With money, you change units. 3,75€ is three euros and seventy-five cents. That's why "three seventy-five" is ok. Same with hight.

[@justusxavierbarboza246]

oh no mini oceangate sub has imploded

[@Khorde_theHusk]

why not paint the 3D print in a layer of epoxy to fill the pores?

[@tricycleboi]

I like how he prints the scissors gripper to prevent himself from touching the dichtol but still dips his fingers in it to use the grapper

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

Why use the appropriate gloves when you can over engineer a solution, right?

[@BobWidlefish]

@@BrunodeSouzaLinoengineer a solution then not use it.

[@roidroid]

This is the first video I've seen on this channel. Is it a parody channel? The switch from "this stuff will kill you if you touch it" to "I'm too stupid to care" made me legit angry. There's also other weird inaccuracies in the vid that ppl who know about water pressure should know better than. If the whole video is parody then that would make sense. edit: it's possible the other inaccuracies were just language issues tho.

[@tricycleboi]

@@roidroid ok sure thing blud

[@TwigPB]

@@roidroid Bro doesn't understand jokes

[@Twig_ash2610]

That creation in the thumbnail is absolutely *imploding*

[@DaPigeonGameer]

💀

[@user-cj3fk5nt4t]

💀

[@SubSpaceSans]

💀

[@jmramirezp1]

💀

[@vergil-__]

💀

[@CarlinPlayz]

That 3D metal sub was cool. You're probably right that it could go deeper then the real thing

[@sirisawadcharoensuk6569]

💀💀💀💀💀

[@CarlinPlayz]

@@sirisawadcharoensuk6569 💀💀💀

[@jeremy6384]

Is the bottom of the ocean not deep enough?

[@Sainsburys_Femboy]

@@CarlinPlayz💀

[@CarlinPlayz]

@@jeremy6384 nah. Gotta go deep. Like Europa deeper. I'm pretty sure those oceans are much deeper then earth's

[@fin7152]

In industry, reinforced O-rings are used to seal vacuum lines. These have a metal ring on the vacuum side that prevents the seal from slipping.

[@fin7152]

google centering ring ISO-K to see it

[@noen-_-7446]

I love all the little jokes and reverence in the video, makes the video way more fun to watch and gives a nice atmosphere.

[@sydnerd]

Props to JLCPCB/3DP for supporting this channel, shame others wouldn't because you folks are doing an amazing educational and inspirational job combined with top tier engineering.

[@Arek_R.]

Doing second process with the dichtol stuff probably will seal it even more. Btw. another technique to seal a FDM 3DP is by printing it in ABS and then doing acetone smoothing, it dissolves surface of the part and once dried creates solid layer all around.

[@saturated2350]

Would be quite interesting if someone made a full scale model for testing!

[@draco5991rep]

I would use carbonfibre for the hull, since it is pretty stronk. Also it doesen't like to deform 🤡

[@happninmojo]

I can take millionaires for rides in it!

[@happninmojo]

It's pretty expensive, I'll save money by using an xbox controller to pilot it.

[@draco5991rep]

@@happninmojo genius idea, we should start a company but what should we call it 🤔

[@paulrippcord506]

@@draco5991rep The name should reflect that we are a gateway to the ocean, any ideas?

[@AronFigaro]

Cheers from the openROV team. We actually thermally annealed our PLA to waterproof ours back in 2014, and this worked quite well by boiling them in hot water just to the point of deforming and then letting them cool. If you get the temp correctly it will work, though less well for solid fill.

[@Max-mb2el]

“i think it will collapse”

[@Jrynx]

E

[@Marder_IFV]

A

[@FrankIsHere794]

Sports it's in the game

[@maximthemagnificent]

Love your sense of humor.

[@segment932]

To both prevent water damage your electronics and make the sub survive a deeper dive you could submerge the electronics in baby oil. Then the submarine drone don't have any air in it, thus can not break from over pressure.

[@UncleKennysPlace]

Or ordinary mineral oil, to avoid that smell reminding you of changing time and diaper rash.

[@bastienx8]

It's the same thing used in some dive watch, it prevent them to collapse, and since oil dont mix well with water it also prevent small water drops to enter.

[@johns_craft8582]

Also get a better receiver so the controller dosent disconnect

[@Duolingo.524]

The sub I think comes with a Xbox

[@LeeRox91]

You could use a "clear transparent" setting for getting a really solid print which reduces gaps in between layer walls

[@Travis141123]

I used to repair cracked/seeping plastic fuel tanks by pulling a vacuum on it, then applying epoxy. The same could be done with your printed vessel and the dichtol. Also pressure regulating the hull is a good idea.

[@KiritaChan]

You could of use resin printers because it just prints each layer in a second because it uses uv lights to solified it

[@bodach2921]

You can put the print in dichtol and put it in a vacuum chamber. This allows air to escape from the pores and at normal pressure the dichtol diffuses into the pores.

[@waterstudio5571]

I have some reasons for love your videos: 1. Good video editing 2. Stilling voice 3. Gripping content

[@AnotherOtherMan-alive]

When using a gasket or o-ring, you need to design around it with a groove for it and having multiple sealing layers. You want to maximise the path the water takes to get in from a deliberate opening.

[@DrTheRich]

For the O ring, you need to design the seating of the seal in such a way that the pressure of the water tightens the seal. then the higher the pressure, they better the seal.

[@atranas6018]

I just painted the FDM prints with thick paint & brush when I need it to be water/gas-proof. Works every time.

[@Robinlarsson83]

One note about o-rings and other rubber seals, the one you used looked more like a EPDM "string" rather than an o-ring. Way better to design around an off the shelf available o-ring (proper one in fairly hard NBR or similar rubber) than trying to glue something together. Glueing seals with CA glue or really any glue that is harder than the rubber will be a problem, it creates a hard point that almost always leaks. The usual way of doing it is to have nice cuts that mates well and make the seal a bit to long, so the ends gets compressed into each other. No glue :) Or getting some way to vulcanise the rubber together, but yeah :P

[@Trust_me_I_am_an_Engineer]

"creates a hard point that almost always leaks" sounds right, but is completely wrong. I've worked at Engineered Pressure Systems ( EPSI) at Sint Niklaas for seven years and we ALWAYS glue the large O rings (Nitrile cord) with a standard cyanocrylate glue, because noone makes standard O rings with a 800-1000 mm diameter at an acceptable price and delivery time. Perpendicular cut with a sharp knife . These O rings will easily seal high pressure vessels up to 9000 bar (900Mpa). BUT you need a very proper fitting groove and the exact amount of compression for a proper seal. I don't think he used an EPDM cord, but a nitrile one. Of course you're absolutely right about designing around an off the shelf standard is always better . In this case I 'm pretty sure the leak comes from the fact that his O ring is rather thick and not properly pressured ( seriously only 4 little screws holding the lid down ?? )

[@hazimreitz]

The design is very human

[@KaliKavala]

Guys, there is a Prusa wiki article for the infill types in 3d printing. THere are a few that are extremely well for filling up the infill part with something. This way you can print your model and fill up the "infill" space with 2 part resign. After curing it should be pretty much waterproof inner skin of your model.

[@Monki48]

Bro is so good at 3d printing that his ocean gate didt crumble

[@magdalenao4229]

Panowie wysoki poziom. Fantastycznie opowiadacie o swojej pracy. Czapki z głów. Powodzenia

[@decoy741]

A najważniejsze jest to że on jest Polakiem najprawdopodobniej

[@beatrizmf9965]

He is polish

[@armanayuban9225]

@@beatrizmf9965 okay

[@glenndhooge6787]

it's awsome to see you guys continously working to improve your underwater drones

[@jedert9774]

That submarine design is amazing I bet it would make it to the Titanic

[@imtube333]

hahahahahaha

[@eliel0503]

ermmm actually, the Titan did actually made it to Titanic multiple times 🤓

[@user-yc8hn7ki3b]

Everyone has been made for some particular work, and the desire for that work has been put in every heart.

[@user-sf3pd8yk6x]

Finally waiting for you to release a new video. I'm so excited.

[@JumpeFurby]

Funfact: opensls brings sls printing to the hobby space for 2000-2500 euro. Print metal at home with lasers!

[@surmur]

The vase printing method made pretty waterproof walls even it was only 1 wall thick. It leaked a bit, few droplets on walls if left for hours but it stopped leaking

[@bendixflight7310]

0:55 better performance than the real thing

[@ishanmelwani6924]

Awesome!! Super interested about your DIY Pressure chamber, do you have any vids/posts talking about how you made it?

[@raphaelboll6096]

With the Oring test i think it might be better to either use more screws or maybe even print the entire cap with a built in thread, since it only needs to tighten enough to press on the o ring consistently. You can look at watch caseback designs here. The caseback has a thread and screws onto the case, making enough pressure on the (sometimes multiple) O-rings to withstand immense depths. Most common dive watches are certified to 200m but it is not uncommon for them to go to 600m. Some of them like the omega Ploprof or the rolex deepsea can go far deeper than that (some have been taken to the mariana trench on the outside of a submarine)

[@bastienx8]

These dive watch are often filled with oil to prevent them to collapse, and since oil dont mix well with water it also prevent small water drops to enter.

[@I.no.ah.guy57]

I love your videos guys, and the scientific process you guys have and the documentation as well! Keep it up!

[@EKUL34]

I needed to make prints air tight under significant pressure, I found a few layers of spay clear coat automotive paint works well.

[@oljobo]

My first idea was using lightweight PLA (with deliberate foaming), and then dip it into - or paint it with epoxy, which will be absorbed into the print, making it very solid and also waterproof.

[@damianbrew5056]

Super materiał. Przyjemnie się ogląda, tak 3mać:) Jako że pracuje w różnych technologiach druku 3d to podpowiem: MJF, SLS i SLM to technologie druku w proszku i nie da się drukować w nich zamkniętych pustych przestrzeni jeśli nie zrobi się otworu na wysypianie nieutwardzonego/s topionego proszku. Więc jeśli rozetniecie te wydruki to albo wysypie się z nich proszek albo technik w firmie zauważył ten problem i poprawił modele że są pewne w środku bez powietrza i bez luźnego proszku. Powodzenia w kolejnych eksperymentach!

[@dustin7970]

What if you put the dichtol in the pressure chamber with the printer? That way im guessing you force it into even more cracks

[@user-tp7bh2yw4k]

She felt that chill that makes the hairs on the back of your neck when he walked into the room.

[@DanielLopez-up6os]

Tbh the Way you do the Drones with the watertight pressure resistant tube inside the shells, is how actual submarines work. Like for ex the Russian typhoon, is an outer aerodynamic hull and stealth hull. And the there's 3 or 4 pressure tubes inside, and ut doesn't that wat natter if some water gets trough the first layer

[@-SEB-835-]

Hi, Thanks for the video and all the good work. It might be a stupid question but what about remelting the print in salt, or/and intrelocking the print layers like shown by the CNC kitchen ? Thanks in advance

[@MrKiar1611]

from my pov, only abs-like and the Siraya Tech BLU (the one in video) are kind of usable for mechanical purpose while stay with relatively cheap price. Otherwise, I would have gone for esun PA100 nylon/esun hard tough/Phrozen Onyx series for something as critical like this. Also, those UV resin perform differently over time even without sunlight shining on it. I usually let it dry for a few days instead of using UV cure station. anti UV clear paint is another trick to stop its curing over time. Although UV light can cure the resin, it is still polymer which can be break down by UV light. So when curing as thin as 0.8mm/1mm, you can easily over cure some part of it and causing small cracks(since the UV light isn't spread evenly on your print), hence, brittleness.

[@avigetsbored]

i wonder what the performance of a nontoxic conformal coatings or nail polish would be on water proofing it, i've used both to effectively weatherproof pcbs and it could be a less toxic alternative to the dichtol stuff

[@jakrabitmn]

have you tried annealing your 3d prints? I've had decent luck with annealing in sand (to mitigate warping/shrinking) at 100C°

[@oneheadlight8000]

Haven’t watched yet, but in our testing.. vapor smoothed MJF nylon is the best waterproofing we have witnessed

[@Leo_Aqua]

have you tried printing a part with fdm then coating it with resin and curing it? This would fill up the gaps pretty well. I haven't tried it but it could work

[@SimonFiliatrault]

Super excited to try this product, but cannot find a way to get it in Canada!

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

Did you try annealing it by baking the print buried in salt or really fine sand? One alternative to try would be removing all the air from the print whilst having it submerged in stabilizing resin, then baking it. In theory, that would do the same thing as dichtol but less dangerous, as you'd be filling all the pores in the structure with resin, then crystalizing it into the model by baking it.

[@user-gx5hp5kg1v]

Behind the window was a reflection that only instilled fear.

[@GamerLudwig]

I assume the rubber oring shrinks faster under pressure than the submarine Pressure from the outside may have a different effect than pressure from the inside afterall

[@timothytilley5594]

Did the Dictol (or whatever you call it) increase the strength of the part, as well as water proof it? Did you test that? I’m excited to try that.

[@allenplaysal]

What flashforge printer do you use? My school uses the adventurer 4

[@oneheadlight8000]

Do you have a link to the pump you are using and some more info on the tank you built?

[@OAikoT]

How did you install the O-rings? This is the crucial part. Remember its about which way they are squished that makes them work properly.

[@dalivanwyngarden3204]

If the pressure doesn‘t matter thaaat much you can just dip the printed parts in some resin or even coat it from the inside as well.

[@pooppyybuhhole]

any details available on that water pressure chamber? is that a DIY or bought? would love to get one myself to run additional tests!

[@thear1s]

Just curious, did you try soaking the FDM prints in resin to see if you could get the same results as with the dichtol? I've got a fair experience with SLA printing and I'm not surprised that you got bad results, resin doesn't have the same strength as FDM and opening two holes kinda miss the point of making a singlepiece submarine.

[@Roobotics]

Are any of the powder-sintered ones actually hollow though? Technically they should be full of unsintered powder with how those machines work, each sub would be sinking down into the powder bed and having powder pushed into it per-layer, then sealed up while still like that..

[@MRSPORTYTRUCKER]

Why dont you just put expoxy on the outside of the print then use sealant on the joints Or coating FDM prints with printer resin

[@raffaelwoller3630]

Would a coat of resin or epoxy also work for making a print waterproof?

[@julianpalmer4674]

Rather than trying to make the electronics container conpletely water proof, have you considered using a high pressure gas supply (CO2) cartridge for example with a regulator to pressurise the inside of the container to maintain an acceptable pressure differential between the inside and outside? Using an automatic vent valve to perge the pressure as you then come back up. Your depth limit then is really the pressure of the gas in your pressuising 'air supply'. Look at how a diver in a dry suit stops getting pinched by his suit as he goes deeper, as well as controlling his bouyancy. Just a suggestion.

[@paulrossjones2234]

hi, great video. What filament are you printing with? cheers Paul

[@G.S.W.]

At what point will you mount that underwater 3d printer to your ROV?

[@KeozFPV]

Ok, now i need to buy this dichtel for my outside encloses!

[@benashbaugh5982]

Why don't you spray the surface with something like the Flexseal? It's a rubber seal that work well enough.

[@AlexvrbX]

if you're going to use an o-ring, use an actual o-ring and not a glued one... and make round indentations on both surfaces, tight fit (if you have to force the rubber in ever so slightly that's not necessarily a bad thing) that was the o-ring has more surface area to seal against and it's unable to shift around. A flat seal might be even better, but only if you can apply LOTS of pressure spread evenly across the entire perimeter. Speaking of which... more bolts = less (or more even) distortion = more sealing power.

[@user-wj7dw9co7y]

I think there's one more thing you could try. For example, placing a thin model of a bathyscaphe inside would create areas of artificial overextrusion in the shell, possibly making it less porous overall.

[@doctorgregg6847]

Did dichtol Made the prints more resistant with dry tests? Should do a test.

[@Denis_Stein]

What type of plastic did you use for FDM printing? This is a fundamentally important issue, since of all plastics, only PETG provides the best adhesion between layers.

[@acb_gamez]

You can definitely eliminate those pores by tuning your 3d printiner, jacking up the nozzle temp a little higher than usual, increasing the flow rate, and decreasing the print speed. I had to do this for something I print for my company.

[@gameeverydaygamer3527]

these are the only ones that you should use a logitech controler for

[@MrDeepwoodtickles]

For depthproofing the electronics capsule why not fill it with insulating oil so it has internal hydrostatic pressure to resist water ingress?

[@matthewsnyder4211]

If you use PLA try Methyl Acetate to waterproof. I've left a 2mm thick at 500psi for 30 minutes and there was no observable leakage

[@xscitobor1233]

What slicer do you guys sue with your flash forge? I can't imagine getting waterproof prints let alone consistently on my ff Creator Pro

[@tejap8882]

can u make a video on how you made the pressure chamber

[@tomcarroll6744]

Impressive work. I've been around a long time and you guys are OK. Keep going.

[@sodazofficial]

I wonder if the print would be more waterproof if you pressurized it directly in Dichtol at low bar for a longer period of time? Also, love all these videos, keep it up!

[@user-pp5nf7bz8o]

People take different roads seeking fulfilment and happiness. Just because theyre not on your road doesn't mean they've gotten lost.

[@lionnelmurimi651]

Loving the content, shall be binging and looking out for more.

[@zdog90210]

I'm not sure if they have it in your country but for my 3D printed RC boats and submarines I use flex seal spray the clear kind it's like a rubberized spray

[@TheExpertProcrastinator]

i sawed this boat in half!

[@flyingkiwi14]

Have you tried acetone smoothing the inside of ABS printed parts?

[@chickennugget3883]

What type of printer did you use to print the subs?

[@TheDroneOperator.]

13:09 nope, not unless it used to have a hole that's been plugged. SLS and the others use powder sintered in layers. There is no way of avoiding the trapped powder in a fully enclosed print. It takes high pressure air and some holes to remove the inners.

[@chriszuhlke8380]

Do you think a vertical print with a fdm printer would be stronger than a horizontal one?

[@maximthemagnificent]

Not that it matters, but if anyone's interested an abbreviation formed by first letters in a phrase that makes a pronounceable word is an acronym (e.g. RADAR), if it's not it's called an initialism (e.g. FYI).

[@mebami9682]

Did you test different filament types (e.g. PLA vs ABS)? When making a top lid for a batch reactor, I looked a bit into it and apparently you should use ABS instead of PLA when working with water, because PLA is bio-degradable. I guess it is not important for a 1 time test, but can be significant when using your model for a long time. (as a teacher, love the video btw, it's fun and shows how you do a 'simple' experiment to really test something)

[@user-dk3ih5ok6k]

What about putting dictol in pressure chamber ,drop hulls in ,pressurize for a hour then dry and test???????

[@notfunnirobloxyt9494]

I love the subnnatica reference!

[@mlab3051]

Can we just proload the pressure inside the hule so only air leak out instead of water leak in.

[@alskar0952]

What if you flood the inside where the coponits are with menrile oil than pressureris it

[@Ironarmgaming1]

0:32 I’m pretty sure your hull is more resistant than the real ocean gate one was

[@cyrilthefish]

Minor thing, but the rear portion of the titan sub wasn't pressurised, the actual pressure hull was kind of a 'tic-tac' shape with just some extra machinery and cowling bolted onto the back. By printing the model with the rear part as pressurised, you actually made quite a weak design which is why it imploded so easily. The rest of the video was awesome though :)

[@CPSdrone]

Right, I realised it later and a couple of later designs had it fixed, not the imploding ones though. Thanks a lot!

[@Vableme]

Now add remote control stuff. Make sure you use the Logitech F710, it's a great controller.

[@porek965]

"Actually i think this hull might be pretty pressure resistant." Leaked footage from certain ocean exploring company

[@glennboyd939]

Try stopping each layer and spraying with hair spray or a mist of super glue. Hairspray will fill the gaps, superglue will liquify the surface, 2 paths to choose.

[@TriremeBoy]

This is probably the best Dichstol advertisment

[@Jack-ny7kn]

I don't know about those extreme depths, but I've had good luck with just spray painting 3d prints to make them waterproof, in case someone is looking for a cheap solution that doesn't require special handling precautions.

[@bimodesign1815]

What if metal plating the submarine, I don't think iron man drinks water.😂