CR-10 Max Bed levelling and X-axis setup

[@christianborsellino3044]

I work at an architecture firm in Toronto. Best leveling tutorial I've found so far, thanks dude!

[@craig00747]

Hello There. This video solved my issue with the initial layer height. Nothing was mentioned about tapping the HOME Z key, after setting the clearance between the paper and the nozzle. Thank you. You`re a Star.

[@minto_fruit]

This 100% helped me thank you dude.

[@minto_fruit]

10 months later I'm back at this video fixing my cr10 max. This video has helped me twice now

[@gregoryyoung-n4f]

Thank you so much just got this printer and was struggling so hard!

[@rikvermeer1325]

Wow dude, this is the only clear explanation i've seen on the bed leveling. Didnt see the X axis calibration nor the BLTouch adjustment. Thanks!! One question though... I think my plate is .15mm higher in the middle than the corners. All the pressure im relieving off the springs, by turning the knob, just make all the springs unwind into a wobbly state and the buildplate just counterbalances any adjustment... To answer my own question: - tighten the knobs first, like halfway - reset BLTouch mesh - do auxiliary level calibration - IMPORTANT: set Z-home after changing the value (thank you for making me understand this, I didnt) - do measurement level calibration (and create a clean BLTouch mesh)

[@mattnault3106]

Your welcome. I got frustrated by the lack of videos on this. The z drop is actually unbelievable and it's because of the weight of the assembly. I've been meaning to install backlash nuts but unless you properly tram it (Make the nozzle parallel with the bed) before they would be useless. The biggest misconception companies give us is that we are leveling everything. We are not. We are simply planing the two surfaces parallel to eachother

[@rikvermeer1325]

@@mattnault3106 I'm waiting for the day where BLE (mesh)sensors become so common that we can create a relative telemetry antenna grid inside the cube. Maybe add some laser guided calibration... i'm a software engineer and im amazed by the lack of feedback mechanisms in these "robots". The printing profile comes from the slicer yet it's rooted in the printers firmware settings and extruder. After calibrating, it just goes; no complex sensor network, no reslicing, no scanning. It looks like there's a huge gap to bridge between CNC controllers and smartphones. Do you have recommendations on octoprint plugin? I saw a nanny plugin that provides some image recognition feedback i believe.

[@rikvermeer1325]

@@mattnault3106 I'm gonna give Klipper a shot instead of Marlin... guess it's more my alley

[@BrownNomura]

Thank you so much man. This made bed levelling so much easier. Much love

[@TsvetanVR]

Thank you for making our lives a bit easier!

[@hnn63]

Thank you. This really helped me a lot.

[@hillbobaggins]

You fixed my issues! Thanks!

[@WACKOJACKO6648]

Huge help. Straight forward. Thank you

[@CatFoodDraino]

Doesn’t the x axis reset after each power down? I thought it was required to loosen eccentric nuts, level the gantry using spacers, then tighten the nuts. That way the x axis is mechanically leveled. Thoughts?

[@mattnault3106]

It actually stays pretty true. Every now and then I'll reset it just for my OCD

[@janosmag8903]

Do you know if the bed, the black material is some kind of tape, I rub my hand across the bed toward the edge, I felt some bumps.

[@janosmag8903]

Hi Matt I followed your video so far so good. FIrst time I use a 3d printer. couldn't figure out leveling. a small part fell out of the printer no idea what it is. can I e-mail you a picture? I haven't start a first print yet either. What is Blacklash screw?

[@htl2682]

Is there any way to change the temperature of the extrusion head to 26

[@MrTOniDIni]

theres something i dont get, whats the purpose of the auto bed leveling if u have to do it manually like in all the other printers? when i first got my printer i thought it would level itself and correct the leveling on its own. but when that went to hell i leveled manually like always and it worked better. so what is the point of it

[@horpicaable]

Tks man. Really helped me Thanks a lot

[@TivensPlayground]

Thanks

[@RiggedVedist]

Thanks man. When I perform the original leveling with the shim the right side immediately rises back up to unlevel the 2 as soon as the motors kick in. Have you seen this ? Thanks ! also..is your Z axis movement really noisy ? thanks again !

[@mattnault3106]

Z axis isn't really noises. The Z axis being thrown out of level again can be fixed with backlash nuts on the Z. It will save a ton of headache

[@mattnault3106]

Also if you get 2 equal pieces of something in length it saves the hassle of realigning the parallel of the Z

[@zorhis1996]

when i try to level 4 it hits no matter what i do...

[@zorhis1996]

the two back ones hit no matter what

[@superzolosolo]

Thank you

[@mattnault3106]

If anybody is interest in purchasing a set of calibration blocks let me know and I'll make an Etsy store to sell laser cut blocks.

[@thomas-zq5el]

yes how big are the blocks you made ?

[@jaytomchuk5474]

worst 3d printer on the market. Save your money and go buy an Anycubic or an Elegoo printer for ease of use ad functionality