Hemera install guide for CR-10S Pro / CR-10 Max

[@TeachingTech]

A public apology to David from Insanity Automation, as at one point in the video I incorrectly said Automated Insanity. Some tips for firmware from Tiny Machines: -Force10SPro and Force CRX display does not need to be on for the 10S Pro or Max. Those toggles are for 32 bit boards. -When you select MAX or 10S PRO V2 it forces BL Touch, bilinear and 25 point probing since those machines come from the factory with BL Touch. When customers purchase our BL Touch kit for the 10S Pro, we have them plug the Z end stop into Z+ and use V2 firmware. -If you're getting false positives on the runout sensor, you may have issues with your sensor/ wiring. We use the default values without this issue and setting it higher will result in a later trigger on a real event.

[@S_Hofmann]

I flashed the screen now and it was exactly what he had as a result.

[@Tommy43087]

Would the firmware modification you posted be the same for the CR10S Pro v2? Such as the probe offset? Also would I need to change the y -axis stop 10mm like the MAx? Any help is appreciated, thanks! Also, the M851 X-40 Y0 is the only coordinate change needed for the BL touch?

[@greliusz]

​ @Tommy S YES!! Pls @Teaching Tech how for CR 10 S Pro V2 - i have Hemera but Firmware im a noob.

[@YoutubeHandlesSuckBalls]

Followed this step by step and discovered that on Windows 10 at least, extra to these instructions, initially you need to install the driver (FTDI) from the supplied SD card (which you mention in your other firmware video), then in Device Manager you need to set the baudrate of COM4 (at least that is what it was on my machine, your mileage may vary) to 115,200 to be able to connect and have the printer show in Arduino. Once I made all the changes and could see my CR10s Pro V2 in Arduino, the firmware did not compile for me on Arduino 1.8.13 (C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-gcc.exe: The filename or extension is too long), did compile on 1.8.15 but then would not upload. This did however allow me to export the compiled binary, which I then uploaded with Cura. It is important to note that Arduino outputs two files, one with the bootloader and one without. If you want to keep your bootloader, use the file that says 'with bootloader'. If you don't, you can't program it via USB again because you will have no bootloader... Aside from this small detour into the frustrating world of standard computer issues, the video is a very good guide to setting up and installing a Hemera on your CR10s Pro/Max.

[@dukeezra5015]

I know it is kinda off topic but does anyone know of a good website to watch new tv shows online?

[@MakerFarmNL]

You have developed into the most extreme content generating 3D printer youtuber on the interweb!

[@evilstuie82]

Hi Michael, thanks for a great video. I'm brand new to 3 d printing so I've been enjoying the learning curve as I work my way up to printing ABS dash panels for my KITT project. A couple of issues I ran into with the build. Firstly the V2 Fan duct doesn't seem to sit in the right place, however I'm not sure what the optimal spot for this is so can't be sure. Also I printed all of the mount and parts in standard PLA and the fan mount bracket seems to have warped considerably once I screwed everything in. Lastly there's a few updates that might be worth mentioning for newcomers like me. I've added them in the next comment for what I found was needed, or different from when you made the video. For anyone attempting this, these are the things I found were required or useful: 1. Watch the Ender3 video first, as there's a couple of key things to pick up on. 2. Print all the required 3d parts first, and in a good solid material. I used PLA but PETG or ABS may have better luck in rigidity and shape. 3. The latest Marlin Creality DWIN branch does not have the touchscreen files in the same place/zip. They are now in the TM3D_Combined480272_Landscape_V7 zip. It took me a few goes of the wrong files to figure this out. 4. When you update to this firmware you lose one of the more important adjust features, which is the ability to adjust bed and nozzle temperatures at the start or mid print. 5. The Arduino build take s a significant time to compile and also has a couple of errors when compiling, but it did seem to work in the end. Took about 5 minutes sitting on the same screen before anything happened. 5. Many of the screw lengths suggested did not work for me, and I found that they were bottoming out on the hemera, or not long enough to catch the nuts on the other side. I used the next size up in length for most of the mounts, and either filed them down slightly or used washers as spacers. The fan duct mount needs to have the adjustable screw holes opened up a bit with a file or Dremel to allow the screws to slide up and down for adjustments. 6. Lastly the latest version of the Marlin firmware has 2 values you need to adjust for the bed size. There's BED_SIZE AND MAX_POS from 470 to 450. If you only adjust the bed size the x axis will crash into the right side.

[@evilstuie82]

Edit, ignore point 4, the temperatures can be adjusted by just pressing on the commanded value which is slightly greyer/darker than the current value. Couple of updates on my setup also: Make sure you pick the right duct, I hastenly picked Duct_V2 because its the latest version, but that's for the V6 not Volcano. I've also found there is a remix of the blower mount that uses 3 screws instead of 2 and is much better aligned. Make sure you put the thermal paste on the heatbreak going into the hemera, and screw the heatbreak in correctly and test the thread heights for it at the correct positioning of the hotend prior to connecting anything. Once assembled you cannot readjust these without taking the whole thing apart. I ended up putting connectors on everything so I could easily remove the unit when needed for jams/clogging. Lastly, no-one seems to agree on settings for this setup in order to get good prints, particularly with PLA. I am having inconsistent (thin/thick/none) lines as well as gaps at the start and excess at the ends of each layer, despite the retraction settings. If anyone has a good set for these it would be appreciated.

[@PJC3DP]

Great video! very tidy and innovative installation. I have been getting some great string free results with 0.6mm retraction @ 20mm/s for PLA+.

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks Patrick, I'll try that setting.

[@janikhen7736]

I have an hemera extruder attached to my ender 3 with a custom allumium x-carriage wich actually was pretty easy to make with a handsaw and a drill. With this Solution i loose hardly any buildvolume and it is actually almost as compact and even stirdier than the stock assembly. So i cant reelly agree with you that this upgrade would not make that much sense on an e3 because I got far better and more reliable printing results than before. But still your videos are great and have helped me often enough.

[@TeachingTech]

The Hemera is a quality piece of gear, what I'm referring to is it's price vs the printer itself and the loss of build volume on a moderate sized printer. Your install sounds very tidy.

[@b00sted_mx59]

for the ender 3 i found you can use the normal t nuts for the y extrusion so you can slide the rail front to back and gain back the lost y travel. Normally there are holes and just scres into threads into the extrusion. Might have to drill out the threads but i used m3 bolts insted of m4 so it just fit through them since it was all i had.

[@MegaJameslaw]

Thanks mate! Ur vids are fantastic, ur a born teacher

[@GunGryphon]

Another thing I noticed, if the thermal compound in the Hemera heatbreak threads is too thin or otherwise comprised, you will get intermittent heat creep issues. It can appear to print beautifully for several minutes, then it will begin to underextrude and jam. If you pull the jammed filament out, clip it, and reinsert it, it will print great for another time period just to repeat the process. To avoid this make sure your thermal compound is very well applied, the difference is night and day.

[@ImaginationToForm]

Great install. I'd like this on my CR10S Pro but I'm not up to wanting to do all this work at the moment. And meh back to the Creality fan? I took the time to upgrade to Noctua fans. Though now it's my Mars Pro that sounds like a jet plane.

[@eliseoteson]

Thanks A lot! Really Helpful!! Best wishes from Colombia.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

If memory serves the hemera stepper is closer to a pancake. It just has mounting blocks on each end that make it look like a full size. Bet you can drop the "vref" on it 100mA or so since it's a geared drive.

[@TeachingTech]

You're totally right, it's just a pain to flip this big girl over to access the electronics.

[@Smitty3572]

Looking to do this for my Ender 5 soon. Trying to get as much benefits available before I make the step.

[@aedanyalda6453]

Hi mate great work I’m currently doing the upgrade on my cr10s pro v2 and following your video however the mounting plate is only for the volcano block not the standard that comes with the hemera kit I discovered that after all the hard work and put it in together, would you kindly upload a mounting plate for the stock block thanks in advance mate keep up the great work

[@Ronaaronhunt]

Same here 😞

[@christopherNadarajah]

i feel smarter doing this, lol waiting for the filament sensor video as well. thanks for this video!

[@SuperYellowsubmarin]

Exactly what I need for my CR10MAX !

[@nicholascrow7405]

Dude, your shirt game has been on point lately!

[@patnodus]

This video was a life saver, Thanks!!!!

[@pattihyer8931]

Thank you, I took your advice about the CR10S Pro V2 years back and watched you channel consistently. I purchased the Hemera and looked at your install video. The back plate and BLtouch mount are still on Thingiverse but not tiny machines or many of the others. Most disturbing is that the git hub file no longer has the Dwin file to edit. That and I am unable to find any reference on the things in the firmware that need to be changed. I also too your recommendation to purchase Simplify 3D.

[@oleurgast730]

Just a little "magic" in the video: In the end there suddenly is a silicone sock on the volcano, but it wasn't added in the video before... The moment you add the silicone sock is relevant, as it changes the PID you need. So if using silicone sock, add it before doing PID tuning.

[@TeachingTech]

You are correct. Got the footage of the silicone sock going back on after the hot tighten but left it out by accident.

[@deadsimpleali5540]

Very useful video as usual. I'm planning to install it on Cr10S Pro. Loved the minimalist style base plate. Have modified it for stock Hemera e3d hotend with space to mount filament run out sensor. Will post it on thingiverse in a day or two.

[@driedekker]

have you done it and if so how did you get the firmware to compile.

[@kaliboeshoots]

Where can I find the stl for the cable management part from in the video please

[@MegaJameslaw]

absolutly fantastic mate!

[@DanielTorres-bs8dx]

Can you PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do a detailed install video, just like this one, for the BondTech DDX for the CR10s Pro??? I want to purchase the DDX but scared on the firmware install. Lol.

[@rorysunderland7690]

Filament runout is a must have for this large format printer, a follow up video would be appreciated if you figure that out

[@paullancefield]

Very easy to do, you just need some electrical cable so you can extend the cable and bolt the sensor where you need it. Either, replace the existing cable, crimping on appropriate connectors or, more “hacky” but easy to do if you don’t have the crimping tools and terminals, splice in a cable extension using heat shrink cable connectors. The only tools needed then is a knife and a lighter.

[@avejst]

Nice upgrade Thanks for sharing👍😀

[@tasmedic]

Hi MIchael Thanks for a great video. I was right with this and have followed along almost to the end, upgrading my own printer. However, I don't get the part about the filament runout sensor. I gather the stock one isn't used as I see a bit of filament stuck in it to prevent an error occurring. Does the setup as shown here include filament runout sensing? If so, how does it work?? You do say in the video that you tested the filament runout protection. How did you do that? Then I'm further confused that you're discussing re mounting the stock filament runout sensor. Do you still need it?!! Thanks. Chris.

[@mjethier]

Do you still use this printer with this combination of print heads? I have had one since before this video and I never finished assembling it. The bed from the factory is pretty warped and I wasn't sure if it was worth upgrading to a hiwin linear rail system. What do you think about upgrading that unit to linear rails? Or am I just better off buying the other printer I saw you assembling a few episodes ago?

[@jianghengyi632]

Hi Michael, how did you deal with the filament run out sensor. tks!

[@brandonjaimes3011]

I just got the Direct drive kit from printer mods (it's 100 dollars cheaper) and I love it

[@TeachingTech]

Had the original version and now the 1.2 on My Ender 3 for a long time and I love it.

[@stogie1027]

I got a really good deal on a cr-10v2 as my first printer. I wounded if this would be a good fit for it

[@Audio_Simon]

Hi Michael does your Hemera mounting plate work with the V1 CR10S Pro? I'm thinking you probably have the V2.

[@justinguerrera8322]

any chance of you doing a quick version of this for the CR-10 V2 ? I got that printer to do bigger prints and the hot end cant really keep up. Im a noob at this stuff as well

[@safarityler]

Same boat here

[@GunGryphon]

Be very careful when pushing your x carriage onto the T-slot aluminum. If your wheels are tight, or there's a bur, the edge can gouge the wheel, catching a little each time it rolls past.

[@Hanzi2u]

do you have a link for the cable chain ? as i can see i need it myself. thanks in advance

[@ush2177]

Hi will we see a seckit go update video soon with the new board?.

[@TeachingTech]

Not the new board yet, but the next video is on another upgrade for this printer.

[@ush2177]

Teaching Tech looking forward to it.

[@superwakky2947]

would this also work for the cr10s pro v2?

[@DrTriggered]

I want to attempt this with my "CR10S Pro", but in the Configure.h where you have to define it has a side note that you have to solder r64 and r66? Basically scaring me from even taking this project on. I need to modify the firmware as well, im using the "hero Duct and able" attachment and need to change my probe offset as its probing off the bed and jamming the nozzle into the heated bed. Not sure if you've covered this in another video already.

[@digaum]

Same printer here. If soldering is involved, then things get a bit more complicated and risky. Let me know if you manage to find this out. I'll start doing some reading as well. Thanks

[@amatris1996]

Hi i cant get the Desuuuu firmware to work with my BL touch, Stock MB on my Cr10s Pro (V1) can you possibly help?

[@greliusz]

I have a problem. I am stuck in the Marlin setting, I can not complicate the Arduino program and I do not want to upload to the CR10S Pro V2, because it gives me errors. I am doing something wrong, I did it more precisely step by step, I selected Mega or mega 2560. Or maybe otherwise, would you give a hex ready for the CR10S Pro V2? I have Hemera installed, but without the firmware, I die.

[@LordCipher92]

Why wont my CR10S pro V2 connect to pronterface and when I run out of filament the sensor pauses the print, but it will not start again

[@nicholasgenzman4213]

For the firmware idk of you did it but you didn’t show it but after you do a firmware update you should reset the eprom and after you reset save it by using the m500

[@TeachingTech]

M500 saves all of your current settings, which means an M502 to restore settings from the firmware would overwrite all of the calibration you just did.

[@natewallis1]

I am thinking of getting the CR10-S PRO V2 from Banggood. I am quite technical, but a newbie in the 3D printing world. are there any recommended upgrades that you would make from the get go that will make my life easier? It looks like this extruder upgrade might be one of them.

[@kylelongstaff]

Pls E3D Hemera vs Microswiss Direct Drive. I know Microswiss is easier to install and setup but is the E3D Hemera really worth it?

[@MrSmith336]

Thanks for the installation review. Nice shirt too. Do you have one for Niki?

[@TeachingTech]

They didn't have any Niki ones at the last GP I attended, but if the chance comes up I'll swoop.

[@patrickmaartense7772]

great guide ! can this work for a CR10 S5 with Supervulcano ? Im still looking for a good DD system to use

[@AvanSuti]

Awesome vid as always. Sad that you didn't read my message on fb, i would have so loved to remodel my mount for the hemera (ender5) to fit your needs.

[@chrzacho]

Great videos ... To what degree does this guide apply to the CR10s Pro V2? I don't have any problem on the hardware side, my concerns is the firmware. Can I use TM firmware (ver 2.x) or do i have to revert back to stock firmware?

[@The_Engineering_Experience]

Has anyone done this upgrade with the Hemera Revo? I am wondering if the mount or the BL touch work with the foot print. the upgrade looks a bit smaller and I think it will work but figured I would check. Thank you for any information.

[@The_Engineering_Experience]

Never mind it is shorter by 11 mm and lighter by 92g for anyone also wanting to know.

[@Impecable..]

Do a Hemera install for the Artillery Sidewinder x1!

[@gianmarcofavero1967]

Good evening Teaching Tech. Need a great help. I have a Cr10s Pro V1 with the hemera direct extruder mounted, I wanted to understand if it is possible to install the bltouch v3.1 (antclabs), and update the screen with the black theme of the v2. Can I safely install Marlin 2.0? Thank you very much. UPDATE: I managed to do everything and I also put the black theme. only thing: sometimes the bltouch when I turn on the printer, it flashes, others don't. Unfortunately with the fan (5015) at 100% I did various tests (PID tune) but with the heating cartridge (30 Watt), the hotend (volcano) cannot heat to the desired temperature. on the one hand it is good, it means that the fan cools a lot. Maybe I should put the original cartridge (40w)? or a silicone sock? thanks.

[@elnurmehdiyev5062]

Hi, excellent tutorial by the way, I'm looking to upgrade my CR-10 MAX too, but one question: why you did not simply design and print adaptor to fit original extruder and filament sensor right next to the original hotend? wouldn't that be easier not to tweak firmware? I understand volcano hot end would give you higher extrusion rate, but if I don't need it, I'm happy with slow printing, can I simply reposition original extruder to the short distance from original hotend without tweaking firmware?

[@nicwilson58]

As you compiled firmware anyway, can I ask why you used M851 instead of putting those offsets into the source code?

[@AllTheNamesWereInUse]

Please keep wearing these types of shirts. thank you :)

[@macswanton9622]

This is the most impressive setup I've ever seen. I wonder if its equal will be available as a stock model..? In my lifetime?

[@nearswisky]

thank you I just received mine today

[@Netherlands031]

Why do you have to calibrate extrusion? According to e3d the e-steps should be 409. What's more likely, that e3d has it wrong or that you measured wrong with your ruler?

[@megaobi]

PLEASE NOTE: The custom Hemera mount is not suitable if you are running v6 hot end on the Hemera! it is noted in thingiverse but I missed it - now stuck with no printer - just the heads up to others!

[@anthonyciofalo7005]

I just did the same thing...

[@adriaangreyling4943]

Hi Mike! Would you be able to share your tension and retraction settings for your Hemera? More specifically for TPU?

[@digaum]

Hi Michael. Quick question: Where did you find those Dupont connectors for sale here in Australia? Thanks.

[@MrBrettStar]

I’ve noticed with the volcano it is almost impossible to change without dismantling everything. Would an xt30 connector be ok on the heater cable near the heater? It would make it a lot easier but I’m not sure how much the heat travels up the cable, if it is too hot what would be a good alternative connector?

[@MrBrettStar]

Sorry I’m referring to changing the heat block

[@stevesloan6775]

Rock solid tutorial. Keen to do this conversation on my X1 Sidewinder🤜🏼🤛🏼🤓🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀

[@Lucas_sGarage]

I think that is not necesary

[@Gunham20]

Is it not possible to make a mount that has no loss in build volume for the more popular cr-10 / ender 3? 😭

[@TeachingTech]

The build volume for this printer is rated as 450 x 450mm, yet the bed and travel is more like 470 x 470. So we do actually lose a fraction but since there was spare to begin with it's ok. Ender 3 doesn't have this luxury.

[@3lohssvrm]

Ive done it, its not trivial. the whole thing needed to be mounted lower on the existing carriage and made an metal extension. i had the mount the bottom roller bolt the opposite way so the nut is on the back for more clearance. but then needed to cut slots in the x gantry brackets to clear the nut.

[@pippaengroda]

@@TeachingTech I have done this. I made my own custom aluminium carriage plate to mount the hemera and the BL-touch. i also moved the y-axis endstopp slightly. im able to reach the entire 235x235 bed. edit: I have a ender 3 pro.

[@MeAgainstMusic]

Hi @Teaching Tech - do you think your Template for the X-Carriage can also be used for the ender3 to mount the Hemera on the original X-Carriage?

[@driedekker]

Any chance of a firmware file for the 10s pro v2 with bl touch and hemera as I can not get the ide to compile it on my machine.

[@brettmcconnell8040]

do you have a video of compiling InsanityAutomation /Marlin 2.0 as i would love to add it to my Creality CR-X eg 10S Max and Pro

[@wesleyphillips1489]

Hey can get the firmware to upload from computer to printer any help you can give would be great as I know have a printer I can't use anymore. Thanks

[@colinjones9291]

Ok, I am 2+ hours in to trying to figure this out. I have a CR-10S Pro V2 and am about to do this upgrade but cannot get firmware to compile, and even if I could, I am not confident that it's all configured to work properly. Anyone willing to help? if just a hex file for my CR-10S Pro V2 with the changes from the video would be super helpful!

[@perrykappetein9685]

Hi, will the printed guide for drilling the holes also for the CR10s Pro V2 ?

[@JackWilson327]

I suspect you've got this answered by now ... I have a later (April 2020) V1 that was being sold at the same time as the V2 and the carriage is the same as my March/April 2019 V1. When looking at replacement parts at Tiny Machines the carriage sold for V1 & V2 is the same. So, yes, it should be the same. I've printed several different adapters & they all fit both my carriage plates. Never say never but you should be okay.

[@perrykappetein9685]

@@JackWilson327 Actually found this one www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775572 and works great. no drilling needed

[@JackWilson327]

@@perrykappetein9685 I printed that one. Yeah it fit nicely. I didn't want to mess with moving the break detector & there were a couple of things I didn't like about that one so I made my own. Once I get done testing I'll post it for the heck of it. How did you handle the configuration.h file? Did you use the one off the Marlin configuration repo?

[@JackWilson327]

Actually, never mind. Sorry! I think I found the right file. I was getting completely confused because I was trying to fork the repo and that process was not giving me the right configuration.h. It is there in the repo and if you go get the zip of the repo under releases the right one appears to be there as well. - github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/releases/tag/CrealityDW73

[@perrykappetein9685]

@@JackWilson327 I am using Nic's Firmware. facebook.com/groups/485185272196044 Nic's Creality 3D Printer Firmware & 3D Printing Support

[@RCMlll]

Is 400 the factory e-step value for alll CR10Max printers?

[@S_Hofmann]

I don`t understand where I can get the screen files that fit Marlin-CrealityDwin_2.0. I have got almost everything running by now accept for those files. Could you please put a link in the description.

[@S_Hofmann]

@@ChazmillsADLT So. I just took this one. It is a different branch called Creality_DWINTest. I just flashed the screen files in there and it worked for me. Additionally, I want to say that with 3d printers half of the time I have no idea of what I am doing so be careful! ;) github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/Creality_DWINTest

[@S_Hofmann]

@@ChazmillsADLT I just realized that there is a zip called ,,SingleExtruderScreens_V2Rev1.1´´. I guess that the branch was updated.

[@3dprintingbird554]

Any plans for the Micro Swiss Drop in Direct Drive?

[@markh2005]

Great T shirt! 👍

[@Naifoza]

hello, did you use the direct kit or bowden kit ? thhanks.

[@Naifoza]

for the cr10 max

[@PeterHelenefors]

THANK YOU 🙏

[@nearswisky]

can you redesign that plate for a v6 hotend please?????

[@colinjones9291]

I am having a hell of a time with getting this firmware right. I have a brand new CR-10S Pro V2 and did the Hermera and Volcano upgrade. It is running creality's 1.70.0 firmware currently and when I try and do your steps exactly, I get all sorts of compiling errors. Any help would be SUPER appreciated! If so, let me know the easiest way to chat with you!

[@JackWilson327]

I don't suppose you got this sorted did you? Since this was posted I think some the key words / syntax in Marlin have changed. I'm about to start over this morning with the current config files from Marlin & my best guesses based on this, antclabs for the BL-Touch (also out of date), and a couple other sources.

[@colinjones9291]

@@JackWilson327 I did get this up and running with the latest marlin. It seems the new marlin is programmed much cleaner and therefor very little was needed to do. You will need to use ardiuno ide which is ardiuno 2.0 (still in beta). After that, couple modifications to the marlin. Io as shown in teaching techs "hemera install guide for cr-10s pro /cr-10 max". Hope that helps!

[@JackWilson327]

@@colinjones9291 Do you recall if you started with the configuration.h & configuration_adv.h from Marlin on github @ "MarlinFirmware/Configurations/config/examples/Creality/CR-10S/CrealityV1/" ? Asking because Teaching Tech says to use the example config from InsanityAutomation's repo and they seem to have defaulted back to the Marlin configurations and I'm either blind or unable to find any example configurations under their repo at this time. So @Teaching Tech is a little behind on this video now.

[@JackWilson327]

Never mind, I think I got it figured out.

[@3DPrintedProps]

Awesome vid as aways. I really need someone to do a video for the Formbot Raptor 2.

[@stecross5631]

ok first the video is great but actually doing it nightmare plus compiling the firmware is not happening they erros just keep on coming i have tried going threw it manually and undefining then tried copy and paste for the config h file u provide and nothing a hex file for this would be great also i have the cr 10 s pro induction sensor and the v2 bltouch also the max and but there is a updated screen for the pro as the screen does not work in marlin on my pro the v2 i have not tried yet. Any firmware in hex format would be nice for all pro inductive sensor the bl touch version and max would make life alot easier

[@haitianboy420]

I need a setup for the ender 3 max :(

[@Lucas_sGarage]

Michael, i want to Buy a tevo tarantula pro, do You recomended?

[@almirantecarvalho]

First of all, awesome video as usual. One question: is the tinymachines firmware Marlin 2.0?

[@danbrown586]

Yes, the linked branch is based on Marlin 2.0.

[@almirantecarvalho]

@@danbrown586 thank you for the answer. I was confused because I thought Marlin 2.0 could only be edited on Vscode

[@danbrown586]

@@almirantecarvalho That's only the case when you're compiling it for a 32-bit board. You *can* use VSCode/PlatformIO to build it for the 8-bit board in the CR-10S Pro/CR-10 Max, but you don't need to--you can still use the Arduino IDE if you prefer.

[@almirantecarvalho]

@@danbrown586 Thank you again!

[@MartelKombat]

Nice vid, just one correction. I think you only need to uncomment HotendE3D and E3DHemera. The rest will be defined later automatically. But right now I'm unsure because I don't have my folder with my changes files with me. Also, I think you need to change the defined thermistor. But let me check that.

[@MartelKombat]

Ok, you only don't need to uncomment DirectDrive. And with that you dont need to change the defined thermistor. The only thing that wold add to the video would be to check the NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET with your Mount.

[@megaobi]

Omg. Thank you so much for sharing this there is no decent video guides for hemera especially for cr10s pro. I bought one last week its been 3 days spent whole weekend trying to get it going as i am noob and have no idea about firmware. Can i follow the firmware part for me my cr10s pro. I have v1. Thank you so much again best video and content. Love your work

[@danbrown586]

The firmware changes for the CR-10S Pro should be the same, except that you'd choose that printer in Configuration.h rather than the CR10 Max.

[@megaobi]

@@danbrown586 thanks for your reply.

[@chrzacho]

@@danbrown586 Hey .. I hope that applys for the CR-10s Pro v2 aswell!!!

[@Chaot92xD]

Hi Guys, Can someone help me, please? I am not so experienced with the arduino software.. and i have a fault messagec while i try to compllier that firmware its called : C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/main.cpp:43: undefined reference to `setup' C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/main.cpp:46: undefined reference to `loop' collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status Because of this fault i can't finish it ... I open that marlin.ino and change like he did it in configuration.h nothing more ...

[@luker9921]

Commissions ?

[@madmax1419]

Do you remember 911, the crashing Twin Towers? Ok, this is something the whole world will never forget. But why I‘m talking about? Because of heat and the behavior of steel. Why is this interesting for 3D printing? When steel gets warmer and warmer it looses it‘s strength. When it‘s at 500°C it has loose 50% of it‘s strength. At 1600°C it melts. You just need 1/3 of it‘s temperature range to loose 50% of strength. Now we have a look at our hotend. It‘s mostly made of aluminium. Aluminium melts at 600°C. When I compare it to steel, our 200°C at 3D printing will cost the alu hotend 50% of it‘s strength. Printing PETG at 235°C or PACF at 250°C will make the hotend weak. A collusion with anything (for example at sequential print)at this temperature can cause a break of the M6 in the hotend. This happened more than 2 times at my sidewinder ( Volcano) After thinking about temperature and strength of aluminium I decided to use brass or copper instead of Aluminium. After this change I had no issues any more.

[@haley8004]

I like you but god I dread your intro music

[@jon9947]

So I dont jump to any conclusions, you bought 100% of everything featured in this video? I just have a hard time believing you bought everything in this video unless you specifically tell me you did. I really dont understand why it is so hard to start off your videos telling us what you got for free and what you paid for if your opinions truly are your own and you have nothing to hide.

[@coreymac2381]

Jon He is not reviewing the products. He is only showing how he installed them. I can see where one who hasn’t followed Michael for some time might think his reviews could be biased if he got the products for free. I trust Michael to give an honest review regardless of how he got it. He has given unfavorable reviews to products he received for free. In his review for the CR 10 Max, he discloses that the printer was provided free of charge by Creality for review. I don’t expect anyone to disclose where they bought every part when they are showing me how to do something.