Crank Case Vacuum Exhaust Scavenge Testing

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[@serturbo]

I really like tests like this with actual data to backup findings.

[@senseimarvin454]

I built a pan-evac system for my 67 big block camaro back inthe 90's. the venturi setup in the header is important to get right, and you need to use the one way check valve, its just a air injection smog valve. My setup pulled a LOT of vacuum and made it very hard to remove the oil fill cap with the engine running. Mine pulled a bit of oil since i didnt have a good enough baffle system, and in retrospect i should have had a good catch can inline with it.

[@BlaserBuilds]

Nice, good to know. I have some check valves on the way to test.

[@MohawkMotors]

I think you will see an even greater affect the higher the engine is revved, and the more free flowing the exhaust, like if you remove the mid pipe in your exhaust how you mentioned. The more and faster the exhaust gas is moving past the angled bung, theoretically, the more/harder it should draw through the hose. I've seen this used in the big drag racing and mud bog engines for years. A lot of guys call it evacupan. In that application they are typically open header and the angled bung is welded into the collector. They almost always have a one way check valve to prevent anything going back up the hose into the engine, but I've seen several dyno tests and on those big inch high revving engines they were actually pulling a vacuum on the crankcase at high rpm. The more exhaust that was flowing past the bung the greater the pressure differential and thus more/harder it would pull from the engine. Your application is slightly different because your intake air is pressurized while they were naturally aspirated so you may have more blow by than they did. Great video man. Looking forward to seeing more testing. Do you have a link for the bung you used?

[@BlaserBuilds]

It's the PQY version on Amazon.

[@Arv1749]

Would a check valve be necessary, if an oil catch can i installed? I am thinking of running something like this on my M57 and CATA diesel engines. I would be using the Provent catch can.

[@elmeradams8781]

​@Arv1749 if you're going in the mud or water, then yeah, put a valve.

[@tptrsn]

Looking forward to followup testing results! Great stuff

[@jonathanmoore5112]

Great Information. I was using a hose off the passenger valve cover to the front of the turbo and it made a huge difference. I do like your idea better.

[@Wreckedekcoupe]

I always wondered about those. Glad you had some improvements with it.

[@ericmiller4285]

Something to keep in mind... its important to note key on engine off crankcase pressure before each test of different configurations. Ideally you'd be driving the truck, stop and shut it off and key it back on check your crankcase pressure at that moment and start datalogging before starting the truck and driving and do this with each variation. Atmospheric conditions may even be different from in your garage vs outside the door. When dealing with only a few kpa difference, its almost necessary to back it up with several runs and compare the averages between different configureations. I guess that was a long winded way of saying I like what you're doing, keep doing it!

[@scotttimpany2845]

I've been wondering the same thing Ryan. I used to see the bungs all the time on drag cars. Seems to be a simple addition which might prevent oil from leaking. I would put it after the O2 sensor.

[@prozeke07]

Keep it up Ryan deffinitly different results than I had and I'm thinking it has a bit to do with flow with the twins as I'm still single but have a fender dump so may try again. Good job.

[@AmisCorolla]

Thanks for the test! Im going to do this mod too.

[@Justanothercarguy]

This is awesome. I did a bunch of fabrication work for a friend of mine and he requested we setup one of these as well. We didn’t do any before or after testing because it was added when we originally put the car together but with a 500hp 4 cylinder it doesn’t ever have crank case pressure issues. His setup utilized a check valve at the exhaust fitting as well to prevent backfeeding exhaust or pressure spikes from backfires and launch control and what not. I might try this with my twin turbo truck now that I’m thinking about it again. Same as you mentioned I have a few oil leaks likely caused by a bit of pressure

[@BlaserBuilds]

I did order a check valve for it. Plan to do more testing.

[@donovanb.4565]

​@@BlaserBuildsdid you ever do any more testing and add another one?

[@VolvoOverdrive-fb6fo]

Stands for reason if you boost high, your going to pump up the crankcase pressure, and then you risk high engine stress, oil leaking seals and diminished returns. Negative crankcase pressure de-stresses the engine so it's not working against itself. It's also giving you a mild turbo effect on the underside of the pistons on the induction stroke. David Visard wrote about this/common knowledge in drag racing circles a million years ago. For even more gains run an actual vac pump. Nice video.

[@Sjmartin666]

On the old school header evac system they used a mid 80’s mopar type of egr back flow check valve

[@ericflower9855]

I tried these with a 5.3 single turbo exhaust dumped at rear end ...I made sure the angle was right etc....at idle it was pushing exhaust out the 10an hose....I have since changed to a front fender dump and was thinking of trying the kit with the check valve.Good video!

[@BlaserBuilds]

I'm gonna test with a check valve too, they're not here yet. I did feel exhaust pulses too, but didn't really seem to effect it apparently.

[@prozeke07]

Same... still have the fittings and everything in a box.

[@scotttimpany2845]

PQY Universal Stainless Steel E-VAC Scavenger Kit Includes T304 SS E-VAC Fitting just went up based on the Ryan recommendation. They're a million $$ now lol

[@4BillC]

I've actually considered putting one of these on my car as well. It's only a 1.8 4 cylinder but has double the factory power and with the bigger turbo I'm putting on it I'm hoping to get to 350+.

[@anotherbluenova6358]

I commented on your Blaser build page on FB the proper check valves

[@broke_dongle]

Needs a diverter one way check valve at the top of the exhaust probe and the probe needs the open angled outlet facing to the rear . In my N.A. trials and a friends JDM right hand drive modified turbo Supra.

[@boostlab5137]

I'd really love to see you compare these exact results to changing location of the vacuum to your turbo inlet to see if that would possibly be any better.. I'm running a 5" hood stack, which is a tight radius 90° directly off the back of my s475/96 t6, and barely have enough room for the filter on the front but if the results speak for themselves like these just did I would try to incorporate both.. was also told to get an ls3 valley cover where they relocated a pcv there and running that to the intake may be beneficial, along with what your doing from the valve covers

[@hotcolors9455]

The old school evac fittings had a little can on it that is a check valve.

[@SloppyMechanics]

we are here

[@maurymoynihan5245]

Luv it... I have similar setup making 1Kawhp,big single. Mine smokes a bit so very unterested in results...dyno results would be awesome!

[@oby-1607]

The more parallel the bung is to the exhaust pipe it is being welded into the better. If it goes in on an angle, the benefit will be less. The velocity of the gases going past the bung will cause the evacuation and negative pressure. A check valve helps as well especially if you are going on the street and going at low speed and idle.

[@elmeradams8781]

More scavenging welded at a 90° or angled as flat as possible?

[@Disneymkvii]

Excellent test! I think adding the one way valve would add some more vacuum as well, love to see y ou test that. I've done a similar (vac/boost gauge ran into car) A to B test on my LS turbski Mustang and found I had to seal off the catch can and just run the scavenge setup. The only "problem" I had was at high rpm it would draw too much vacuum. Found they sell little vacuum relief valves.

[@elmeradams8781]

What did too much vacuum do?

[@Disneymkvii]

@@elmeradams8781 It would make a high pitched squeal under high vacuum from drawing air in at the front main seal. Drawing air in through the seals will dry the oil from the seat and wipe it out. The vacuum regulator check valve prevents from pulling too much.

[@elmeradams8781]

@@Disneymkvii since reading your comments, I read elsewhere they said the limit (for whatever engine they were working on) was 15 in hg. If they went above that, the oil pump could starve, piston rings would do something bad, and the wrist pin would have issues.

[@Disneymkvii]

@@elmeradams8781 All bad things! The valve I got was a 5inhg relief. Limits the vacuum the system can pull. I got most of my info from TheTurboForums

[@champspec]

Have you tried this setup with one of the moroso or Ford check valves? I have it routed with a stock pcv setup off the 3/8” nipples on each VC going to a T and then into a catch can. and the catch can out going to behind the TB with a one way, so It pulls vacuum all the time its not under boost. The oil fill caps(yes, both banks) with the baffled 12an bung on each VC is ran to exhaust scavenge for under boost. I think the moroso valve is necessary on the exhaust scavenge, so the vac side can pull vacuum properly. The banks need to be as equal as possible. An easy test is to place a vacuum hose into the dip stick tube and into the cab. Use your thumb to monitor the vacuum on the crank case. Your data log method is pretty slick

[@BlaserBuilds]

I did, and didn't really see a change, so haven't made a video on it. Been focusing on this mustang project.

[@Trickster310YT]

If you weld a pipe half way down the tail pipe at a 45 degree angle from the exhaust pipe toward the tail pipe. You will get the benefit of the air rushing out from both sides of the exhaust manifolds. Better and more suction

[@charlesoliver2535]

Connect them together, unless you have access to an extra crankcase entry. You'll need at least one crankcase entry point, to allow fresh air in.

[@elmeradams8781]

Why not just have a vacuum gong on?

[@runesmDK]

No you dont. Crankcase vacuum helps seals and gives horsepower because of lower under-piston pump loss

[@bigfoot355]

Watching all of this.

[@daveerrington5166]

I would love to see a follow up video

[@michaelbenedict9549]

Add 4 of them and get rid of the catch can! 🤪

[@Burndown]

I always wondered about these

[@justinw6448]

So how would you set it up with a catch can to make sure it's still venting properly

[@donaldspeck9212]

Over whelmed ! That was a awesome idea. And if you were able to pull more vacuum from the crank case , how's that affecting your boost?

[@travispfannmuller7717]

excellent test, i've always been told this wouldn't work but this is great. i'd expect reversion cause more instability but maybe the turbo is damping the pulses?

[@BlaserBuilds]

Yeah I was skeptical too, reviews on it seems to be pretty hit/miss. Also going to test with check valve and see how that goes.

[@tayro7265]

If you had a PVC valve in a valve cover or equivalent. Then PVC to catch can, catch can to intake... The boost to improvements in performance probably came from blocking the vacuum leak that fed the PVC valve. Yes you need crankcase ventilation. Using intake vacuum dose influence AFR. Easier to keep stable without random holes in the system.

[@mgrotel]

Any update on adding the other side and/or taking the can off?

[@user-ou7xg5eo8g]

Would love to see a follow up video with the other Syphon fitted. Unless you already tried this, and it's blasted you into orbit?

[@Ghost_host_with_the_most]

I wonder if the angle of the fitting makes a difference? Mine seemed to be more angled into the exhaust.

[@user-hf5ri2eu9r]

I believe the spikes are exhaust reversion ?

[@jefflamb5343]

GREAT video. Your testing protocols are very good. One issue I don’t think I saw in any of the comments or in your video is regarding the how you determined the proper positioning of the scavenge tube relative to the exhaust flow? I saw how you drilled the hole, welded on the bung and then screwed the scavenge tube into the bung. But did you pay close attention to which direction that small slot is facing in the exhaust stream once the scavenge tube is fully screwed in? If so, which direction is that small slot facing?

[@johnzaffina6921]

because its threaded in, it's fixed in one direction unless you shim it. you can see the direction it faces at 10.10

[@scottc74]

I know this is old, but I hope you eventually figured out you need the rest of the parts for the system. You really need the check valves for the pulses.

[@tmzwcky]

What did you end up using for the permanent hose? Any temperature issues?

[@-RyN-23]

Most kits have a pcv one way valve in them, look up the summit kit or Moroso kit youll see what i mean, this is more for open header style motors that are na or supercharged from my understanding but with enough flow i coukd see it working on a turbo setup

[@BlaserBuilds]

I did add a check valve, but haven't tested it much after that.

[@fatherfirefighter7751]

Any update on the scavenging testing?

[@vrg69]

That's very interesting

[@stephenjohnston226]

👍👍👍

[@tsd21132]

Is the scavenge directional to make a venturi?

[@sanger440]

The Moroso crankcase evacuation kit/system has a one way valve included that should ease your fear of blowing exhaust pressure into your motor. Cool test though. What if you hooked up the system to the catch can so it would be under a slight vacuum? Should make the catch can very efficient.

[@sniperpronerfmods9811]

The one way valve is the only way it could work

[@BlaserBuilds]

I have some check valves on the way to test that too. You could hook it up to catch can. Definitely wouldn't hurt it.

[@restoresciencehealthsupple2890]

I would like to use an ehaust Scavenge sysyem, but I am concerned about the temperature of the evacxhaust welded bun in the exhaust melting the fuel hose to the catch can. Any ideas?

[@clutchboi4038]

These come with an AN fitting so you could get an elbow barb adapter to help route your hose and that should be more than enough to keep it cool. I guess you could also use a stainless braided line instead of fuel line.

[@davidconley3610]

👍

[@BigRedRocketScience]

This was a test, but is the goal to hook these up to the catch can vent so you can still use your oil cap & what's sucked into the exhaust is less oil & more blow-by? I've seen a different exhaust evac system on lots of derby cars with 80s emissions era check valves from the exhaust air injection system. Like the SUM-120180. No experience with it, but hey, one way valve.

[@BlaserBuilds]

I'm gonna test it with valve too. Ordered but not here yet.

[@BigRedRocketScience]

@@BlaserBuilds friggin' supply chain!

[@TheSteve1175]

Don't remove your mid pipe. The only problem that you run into with running two of them is you at high RPM can pull oil into your exhaust. Which can make smoke out the exhaust. Be Blessed and Be Safe 😇

[@holy1pope]

where can i find these for purchase?

[@anotherbluenova6358]

N/A people run 2 of those scavange tubes. Obviously one on each side. I would be affraid of it pulling oil into the exhaust under hard boost and putting it under your tires.

[@davidnunez3523]

Just tried on my car and it blows exhaust into my valve cover lol. its a 4 cylinder turbo straight piped from the turbo so there's no collector.

[@coryholmgreen1947]

You ever get around to installing the second one?

[@BlaserBuilds]

Haven't messed with it. Just been reading the truck and building other stuff.

[@JayDee-bz2ge]

did he leave the catch can side open??? The system needs to be air tight. The only "air" in the case should be blow by ...

[@LleshelwinBeteszki-sc5dt]

When it's going down the exhaust, why use the catch can? Just dumps all the moisture and water vapour out the back mate

[@Brittvanegas]

I study gas dynamics for NASA. I have one of the fastest 2 strokes in the world.

[@funfun8095]

Ran a header crankcase evap system like that, on both headers, 30 years ago. Ended up going to a vacuum pump system, was better and cleaner.

[@BlaserBuilds]

Been looking at electric vacuum pumps. Figured I'd try this and see how it does to avoid the electrical load.

[@clutchboi4038]

Which vacuum pump did you use? I have my valve cover installed with AN fittings and no PCV so I'm trying to decide between this and a vac pump.

[@funfun8095]

@@clutchboi4038 I used a GZ Motorsports, belt driven.

[@jacob-no4tf]

@@clutchboi4038 suggest you to use motorcycle fuel pump motor. I will use it in my future project

[@clutchboi4038]

@@jacob-no4tf ok so that is a choice of motor. what will you attach to it to pull vacuum? doesn't an in tank motorcycle fuel pump need fuel to keep it cool? what about an electric turbo?? Lol like I know they suck for making power but what about using it to solely pull crankcase vac?

[@BigRedRocketScience]

You didn't proove it, but I bet this straight thru muffler scavenged better than the 40 series mufflers ever did.

[@Mastermindyoung14]

Im gonna stick one on the other side of a loud valve. Why not 🤷‍♂️

[@philipwhite9604]

They do work not near as good as a vacuum pump. Most effective around a foot from the exhaust exit.

[@joejoesmojo32]

Hey man did you weld it in before or after your wideband? Or do you think it doesn't matter either way?

[@BlaserBuilds]

It's opposite side of the motor from the wideband. Wideband is in driver side, this was in passengers side.

[@joejoesmojo32]

@@BlaserBuilds do you think on a single turbo build if I placed it Upstream of my wideband it would skew my reading enough to make tuning difficult. Also the way I have mine ran now is both valve covers go to a catch can and then from the catch can which is sealed to the downpipe. So essentially most of the oil should be picked up by the catch can before it exits the downpipe

[@BlaserBuilds]

@@joejoesmojo32 I would try to put it after wideband.

[@clutchboi4038]

This would pull air into the exhaust so you definitely do not want this upstream from your wideband.

[@bavhaustv9795]

Did you end up using both? Did you end up using them long-term? -Mike

[@BlaserBuilds]

Haven't messed with it since this video. Been busy with other stuff.

[@bavhaustv9795]

@@BlaserBuilds Good to know. Thanks for the video, it inspired us to give this a shot. Gonna try this on a 64mm single turbo bmw

[@Zionslayer1]

2:50 Fi Audio, I miss them!

[@irvingbar4569]

Is it normal for my catch can to smoke? This is my first turbo build

[@BlaserBuilds]

Is the smoke pulsing or like it's puffing out? Some steam from condensation is Normal. If it appears to be puffing or pulsing it could be a broken ringland.

[@irvingbar4569]

@@BlaserBuilds thanks for always replying and thanks for the great videos I loaded a short with the breather smoking

[@BlaserBuilds]

@@irvingbar4569 left comment on it.

[@ABs70nova]

U would have a much better effect if u tap into the turbo to pull the blowby gasses out. The exhaust ones work yes. But using the turbos to pull the crankcase pressure is ideal.

[@dm9103]

Is your catch can vented?

[@BlaserBuilds]

Yes

[@dm9103]

@@BlaserBuilds have you considered having that closed? Theoretically this system would pull much more vaccum if it was a sealed system.

[@user-hf5ri2eu9r]

moroso check valve.

[@AshLongie]

Nice info doesn't seem worth it back pump maybe a safer option