Creating A New Profile In Orca

[@michaelcharles2224]

I have looked at so many videos and this one is really the best Orca Slicer setup videos out there. Looking foward to seeing more. Thanks so much

[@beatthetar]

Great video. Comprehensive guide on how to get the best print settings out of Orca Slicer no matter what printer you use.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thank you, those kind words are much appreciated! Thanks for watching!

[@1supertec]

This video is awesome I've been looking for a good video to show me how to tune filaments and finally found yours, thanks Bill 👍

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the kind words! Are you using orca slicer? My routine for cura is very similar. Thanks for watching!

[@1supertec]

@@pushingplastic7445 hi yes I'm using orca slicer now as I like the paint on/off support feature but only for about a month, before that I was using cura but it's the creality version of cura.

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@1supertec The nice thing about learning Orca is that if for some reason you go to prusa slicer, super slicer or even Bambu studio, they all are very similar to each other. Jumping from Cura to Orca is a little tougher, but doable. I’ve used cura (and still do) for some of my printers.

[@JoshuaWShanks]

Awesome video! I've been using Cura for all of my slicing needs but I'm currently in the process of installing Octaprint on my Ender 3 V2. I like that Orca has a built in connection feature to Octaprint. Orca seems like a phenomenal slicer program! I look forward to seeing more of your videos featuring Orca!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the kind words. Cura is a good slicer. I still use it from time to time. But I'm finding that Orca is giving me some great prints! Thanks for watching!

[@danielbuchholz7667]

I just found out about Orca Slicer and its build in configuration options and in the process of finding out "how to" came across your video. Thank you so much to put the configuration of filament and a new printer setup to a format that is easy to understand and easy to replicate. I´ve been looking for this kind of information and especialy the way it is presented for a long long time. I come from an Ender3 pro which went the usual road of modification and try and error and so on. . Now adays I am on a Ankermake M5 because I kinda want a more hassle free aproach. I am sure this will put my prints finally on the next level :) Again thanks a ton!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Awesome! Glad to it! I'll have more Orca Slicer based videos coming soon. Thanks for watching!

[@Cereal_Killr]

Wow...probably the best most in depth Orca setup and calibration videos I've seen...BIG Thanks!

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for the kind words and thnaks for watching!

[@ThiagoHSZampollo]

Thank you for your excellent instructional video. Great job!

[@oldfarmhand7714]

Hi again another great video. It was very useful. I have been printing for 10 years and up until I bought the K1 Max I could solve problems with the (help of you tube) but with the k1 max it's been harder GREAT MACHINE but it dosent seem to like ABS. Thank You

[@phonghuynh-y2t]

thank you so much, very detailed, sir, , i love your video

[@pushingplastic7445]

Thanks for those kind words and thank you very much for watching!

[@jmwetterene7459]

super vidéo merci

[@venko3211]

How setting .8Nozzle setup sir. Please update video for .8Nozzle full configuration for layer Hight and wall thickness , print speed, fan speed, infill., and more( I have ender3 v2 printer)

[@learobinson]

Great video, even greater haircut

[@mrfoameruk]

I'm just lazy. I have just got a K1 Max and will try your setting on a profile.

[@pushingplastic7445]

If this your first printer, there will come a day when you want to print something but have nothing to print. Those days are the best days for testing and tuning!!! Have fun with the K m\Max1! It's an awesome machine!

[@mrfoameruk]

@@pushingplastic7445 Thanks for the advice. The out-of-the-box experience has been good so far.

[@dirty_curty8611]

can you share those speed settings so we all dont have to painfully transfer them over?

[@evanovski]

is it possible to get Orca to send print directly to the K1Max for printing?

[@pushingplastic7445]

Some people with root their printer. I'm not one of them. What I do is have Creality Printer loaded on my PC, you don't have to use it. Just have it loaded. In Orca under the printing settings have the IP for the K1 Max entered. Slice in Orca, export the slice to you local drive (Hard drive). In Orca, go to Device and the Creality Device screen will open. Import the Gode and click print. You'll have full access to the Creality Device and camera while slicing from Orca and you won't have to leave your seat.

[@zaviekucer9859]

Why do you prefer Cura, not Orca, for your Enders?

[@pushingplastic7445]

I was all setup with Cura for the enders before Orca was available. When I made that comment I was talking about my original Ender 3's, the 5 and five plus. I had a lot of time dialing those printers in with Cura. My latest Ender , the v3 Se, I use Orca and Creality Print with that. I have a sonic pad I want to hook up to my older printers, when I do that I'll probably be running just Orca on them. I still think Orca and Cura are both great slicers.

[@boboscurse4130]

I'm new to all this. Why did you say 230 looks the best on the temp tower? What are you looking at compared to 235 or 225?

[@pushingplastic7445]

The overhang at 235 was deformed more than 230. 225 had more stringing and the detail in the spike didn't look as good to me as it did in 230.

[@boboscurse4130]

@@pushingplastic7445 Thanks. I just ran the Flow calibration on grey sparkle and the sparkles make it really hard to see the lines.

[@pushingplastic7445]

@@boboscurse4130 I can see how that would be a problem. Remember, it's about seeing what one looks the best, not what one looks perfect. After doing your calibrations, run another Temp Tower and see if it looks any better and what one looks the best. Good luck!

[@TheLonewolf53]

Can Orca be setup for Tenlog 3d pro and how to do it?

[@airheadbit1984]

Something is wrong, the temp towers I've printed from ORCA have an ORCA label below the bridge on the flat, nothing is there at high and low temps but on my setup at 215° the ORCA text is the highest. Version 1.9.1 of Orca has resolved several issues I was having with 'Klipper Box - Raspberry Pi Zero' the night before 1.9.1 dropped I was getting junk and with Creality Print worse junk, after the upgrade which included the removal of all previous Orca data and program the 'Klipper Box - Raspberry Pi Zero' project prints perfectly.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Unfortunately I don't have an answer. I'll do some research to see if I can come up with some answers.

[@FilmFactry]

Advice: I have 3 Ender 3 V1. I have two Duet and one is Klipper (no Marlin). I've wanted to do what you are doing for those. I want to try the calibration built into Orca. If I don't have and Ender 3 starting profile what should I do? Other than bedsize these are really Duet and Klipper printers. Could I use a Prusa Slicer ender 3 profile?

[@pushingplastic7445]

If you can get the Prusa slicer into Orca Slicer (I haven't tried that), then yes. That would be a great foundation to build upon.

[@AndrewAHayes]

For the X1C do you need to do a manual Pressure Advance test?

[@pushingplastic7445]

It doesn't hurt. I did one for my 1XC using the same process I used at the 7:30 mark in the video. The more you test & tune, the better your profiles will be. Thanks for the comment and thanks very much for watching!

[@MarkFisch]

They just released an update with a profile for orca

[@pushingplastic7445]

You’ll still want to apply the process to configure your printer with the brand/type of filament that you’re using to get the best results.

[@FilmFactry]

Another Question: Do you test your cooling which would effect bridging, also How are you adjusting for print speed. So this profile is good at a specific mm per sec. But would you run these again for a higher speed? Thanks.

[@pushingplastic7445]

If I was changing my print speed more than just a few degrees, then I would rerun the process. You need to see if the printer speed is moving faster than the hotend can melt the filament, so I'll always run a temperature tower after adjusting speed followed by checking the flow ratio. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching!

[@JacobWilliams-xe9hg]

what is bed mesh lvling

[@pushingplastic7445]

Mesh leveling helps compensate for warped print beds. Basically, you level the bed using a piece of paper, but instead of the 4 corners, you might do it 16 or more places. You adjust the nozzle height from the control panel. When you feel that you have it level, you save the mesh. When you print, you automatic bed leveling probe uses the mesh to measure the distance from the bed to the nozzle. Depending on the printer, you might have to update the firmware to do this. I don't any videos on this, but there are some out there that might help. I would suggest checking some of those videos out. I know CHEP did one about 2 years ago where he upgraded an Ender 3 to include mesh bed leveling.

[@Sergey-v5n]

спасибо вам мой друг

[@alanpaone]

what is up with your sound recordings, its like you're double-tracked

[@Levafpv]

He is on darth vaders spaceship recording this video

[@boboscurse4130]

How does 98/100 give you 1.029? I'm an engineer. I missed that math class.

[@pushingplastic7445]

Good eye. Typo. At about the 6:29 mark, the formula should read 1.05 x (100 + (-2))/100=1.029 instead of 1 x (100 + (-2))/100=1.029. It's been noted in the description.

[@1supertec]

Lazy or not at least your honest 🤣😂🤣