Creative Flower Photography Tutorial - Light Painting, Black Background & More! ep. 499

[@ImageMaven]

Love it Rob. Especially the foil. Less gear talk. More photography. Happy Valentine’s Day.

[@ajs1501]

I prefer this kind of content, it is something I can replicate. Look forward to more like this.

[@nicktippey7331]

Thanks, I had a go - very pleased with result after stumbling around for a while in my garage.. One thing I notice after getting my roses focus sharp, you need to buy expensive roses , battered petrol station flowers won't cut it... 😀

[@AKAndrew]

Fantastic video! Thanks so much, Rob, can’t wait to try this out with my EM1!

[@stephenbrasure4331]

Thanks for a really great video for amateur photographers that don't have a lot of gear. I'll be sharing this video with my photography club. Please, please create some more videos such as this. I've done quite a bit of flower photography using constant lighting, but have never done much light painting and this video inspires me to try it soon. Afterall, there will be Valentine's Day flowers in the house very soon!

[@briankennerley5833]

Excellent content , thank you so much 👍🏻

[@DavidCrooksPhotos]

A tissue might be good cheap diffuser. Nice demo!

[@ab122459]

so interesting!!!❤

[@1957PLATO]

Excellent. Really enjoy this.

[@RobTrek]

Many thanks!

[@michaelmclean4791]

Very cool Rob. Gets the juices flowing. Thanks

[@josephmcgrath6814]

Hello Rob, your flash videos have greatly improved my exposure results. Years ago my camera was a Minolta Hi-Matice E. However Minolta set up the flash exposure I always like the results. Say at a cub scout meeting or a gathering I would constantly use the flash and what I was pleased with in the results was how the subject was nicely lit by the flash and then the background light would slowly fall off. The family photos were much the same. The subject was never over blown and the background darker but softly lit. That was of course auto exposure. Once I was able to get a "Real" camera and then newer cameras, that kind of result was up to me to produce with the settings. I was never quite able to satisfy myself with the results. I have quite a few Olympus Pen, and Em and an OM1 now and in using the flash now with a mirrorless camera where you are shown in the viewfinder what exposure to expect and using flash. The results were never quite what I wanrted. I purchased a Godox V350 last week and I was determined to get the exact results in the image that I saw in the viewfinder. Am I the only person who never tied the exposure comp of the flash AND the camera?? I can now raise and lower the comp and watch the viewfinder change and still while using the flash get exactly what I see in the viewfinder. Your teaching has instilled in me the "Keep experminting till you get what you want. Thank you Joe McGrath

[@RobTrek]

Hi, Joe. Using exposure comp for flash and camera is useful. However, I haven't found it to be reliable, especially when using Auto-ISO. I always prefer to dial everything in manually when using flash. If I have to, I will put the camera in Aperture Priority, lock the ISO to an appropriate level, and set the flash to auto. Then I would dial in flash exposure comp as needed. That seemed to give the most consistent results.

[@josephmcgrath6814]

Thank you Rob. I learned my lesson early with auto ISO and flash. The camera would change to ISO 200 the moment I turned on the flash and I could never seem to be able to change it. It was driving me nuts. I'd go to auto because of the low light in the room or hall and then I'd set it to AP and turn on the flash, the resulting photo would be dark and I couldn't figure it out.Then I would check my settings and find the ISO was at 200. Shut off the flash and it the ISO would jump back to auto. Am I missing something? I like shooting with Auto ISO in all modes but this combo would never work for me. I now set ISO 800 in AP with flash and Exposure comp tied together and I seem to have complete control. Any suggestions? Thank you for answering Joe McGrath @@RobTrek

[@RTFM70]

Very creative Rob! Thanks for making this video.

[@volkerhenschel1882]

Ein wunderbares Experiment, it's great😊

[@labatalain9914]

Good morning Excellent tutorial in particular aluminum paper thanks for sharing @+

[@RobTrek]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@dunnymonster]

Excellent Rob 👍

[@ab122459]

謝謝！

[@RobTrek]

Thank you!

[@zoltanvarga1967]

💯❤❤❤❤❤💯

[@RobNotANumber]

🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹

[@guykerr8111]

Would live comp work? Thanks.

[@RobTrek]

Yes. It's a lot easier too!

[@guykerr8111]

@@RobTrek Thanks.....

[@josephmcgrath6814]

Hi Rob, a question please, when I turn 0n my OM1 and the LCD screen appears my chosen AF point or frame appears in bright green. How do I make that focus point NOT show up on the shooting screen. I just want to be in control so I can turn the illuminated focus point on or off as I want. Ah...I just received my OM1 mark 2 which I will use along with my OM1. I am hoping with your answer to my question I can turn on the illuminated focus point on the new camera using the same method on the OM1. I have failed to find the answer...help. thank you again Joseph McGrath

[@RobTrek]

Go to the AF menu --> 2.AF --> AF Area Pointer --> OFF. Let me know if that worked. -Rob

[@josephmcgrath6814]

Thank you Rob but no. I tried that but it is for the pointer you see after you press the shutter button half way and hold focus on the subject. Still scratching my head. Joe McGrath@@RobTrek

[@RobTrek]

@@josephmcgrath6814 Okay. You have set the grid color which affects the focus pointer, even if you have grid turned off. Go into the COG settings menu --> 5.Grid/Other Displays --> Grid Settings --> Display Color --> Preset 1. Now go to Color of Preset 1 --> R,G,B to 0 --> Alpha 20%. That should do it.

[@josephmcgrath6814]

Ah, you the genius have spoken. Both of my camera displays match. Obviously I must have done all that a year ago on the OM1 but I know that I would never have found it again without your help.Thank you AGAIN...Joe McGrath@@RobTrek