Cura Quality Hints for Better 3d Printing

Learn how to produce high-quality 3d prints with any slicer. While the examples in this video utilize Cura 4.8 the concepts apply to any slicer, including PrusaSlicer, Simplify3d, and others.
Table of Content
00:00 Introduction
01:43 Speed vs Quality
04:15 Flow Rate and Position
05:42 Cura Setting Concepts
07:51 3d Printer Components
09:27 How Speed Impacts Quality
11:00 Cura Flow Rate Settings
12:28 Tuning Flow Rate
14:38 Cura Quality Settings
16:58 Temperature, Speed, Flow
18:27 Combing & Surface Quality
20:28 Mesh Fixes and Bumps
23:30 Model Orientation & Seams
The calibration cat model used in the video is located here:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:425...
The cable remote caddy is located here:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:472...
Let's continue to learn together. Irv
---
The following links are to products I have used, reviewed, or evaluated for the MakeWithTech community. Some of the links below are affiliate links that provide commissions, at no cost to you, and help support the MakeWithTech video production, purchase of products for reviews, lab, forum, and web site.
I have reviewed the following printers or similar printers:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/3d-printe...
These are some of the tools I use for 3d printing day-to-day:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/basic-3d-...
I have reviewed or used the following 3d printer upgrades:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/3d-printe...
Here are the 3d printer filaments I use to evaluate prints, software, and techniques:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/3d-printi...
I will be covering basic electronics and software in future MakeWithTech segments and here are the products I am using:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/software-...
Some of the Woodworking products I use:
➡︎ kit.co/makewithtech/drvax-woo...
---
** Affiliate disclaimer: some of the above links in my videos may be affiliate links, which generate a sales commission for me. Your price is the same or less than if you go to the site directly. These sales commissions help to support the MakeWithTech channel. (makewithtech.com)
** MakeWithTech and the MakeWithTech videos are Copyright Cogitations, LLC. (cogitations.com)
** Equipment used in the MakeWithTech videos has the potential to cause injury if misused. Use all equipment and tools at your own risk and follow all manufacturer's safety recommendations.
** Cogitations, LLC licenses all music used in the MakeWithTech videos from Epidemic Sound. Cogitations, LLC uses only authorized or open source clip art and third party images. Images and videos used in product reviews and tutorials are from the original product (software or hardware) manufacturer's site.
** We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. .

[@jasonwu2758]

Your tip with the combing not in skin has saved me tearing my hair out. Legend in my books. Thanks!

[@emilcost8613]

I have to really compliment you on your videos. You are an excellent teacher. I learned so much after watching this video. I have Cura opened and was following along as you spoke. You make such great videos, I honestly check my progress bar and want them to last an hour. I get bummed when they end. I'm about to order an Ender 3 S1. I am really excited to get into this hobby. I've been a control systems/data acquisition programmer for 35 years. I just retired and love parameters. I programmed Galil stepper and servo control systems and I love this stuff! I remember the old days when I had to write stepper accelerations using look-up tables with a interrupt timer to send the next step pulse. This was even more fun because it was done using assembly. I really appreciate your channel and your knowledge. I think we would have worked really well together!

[@seanl6340]

Awesome teacher! Thank you for sharing the knowledge. And presenting in a non-flashy, concise, and understandable way. I wish more "educators" had your skill. I just started out in 3D printing and have learned so much from your videos. THANK YOU!

[@stephandevriesere3667]

Since i am new to 3D printing , i have a lot to learn. I have spent 4 days already on several tutorials and video's on how to get the best results and to get used to the basics. I have to say that you would be the best teacher for me (no idea if you are one lol). Of all the video's i have seen so far, yours was the best to understand. You have a new follower. Now i need to assemble my Ender 3D V2 since it just came in while i was typing this hahaha. Great tutorial, looking forward to learn from you.

[@snarkfinder2621]

Each time I watch one of your videos, I find a little extra thing about something that I thought I knew and something new. It reinforces my existing knowledge and then expands it. Thank you.

[@snarkfinder2621]

@MichaelKingsfordGray ?

[@brucewilliams6292]

Great explanation. Thanks Dr. Vax.

[@SpargurYarnCrafts]

Finally someone who can explain all of this in terms I understand! You, sir, are truly gifted in your ability to teach, and I thank you for your knowledge! I am doing that calibration cat right now.

[@MNLanger]

Great info and very well explained. I'm new to 3D printing and I find your videos very useful. Thank you!

[@clairmaguire3119]

Very informative. You make everything easier to understand thanks

[@WhiteSparkie]

Thanks for the great video! The only remark i have is that you forget to mention that you use 0.2mm Outer Wall Wipe Distance to hide the seam as much as possible, but very informative video. Thank you. I love watching your videos!

[@on8mil]

great video - very clear I shall check out more!

[@FSV3D]

The greatest teacher ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@LesbianLoki]

You, my good sir, are awesome. Thank you.

[@twilightvampire93]

Thank for this was really helpful!!!! Thank you so much!!

[@Cosmicnomadzaa]

Thanks for your valuable information ,subscribed !

[@gregryglinski9820]

Great tutorial Thanks!

[@bhower02]

I just wanted to say thank you for posting this video. It helped alot.

[@michaelhill326]

Pretty cool videos thanks dude

[@geoffroy9659]

Excellente vidéo merci beaucoup Je ne parle pas votre langue mais avec les sous-titres en français j'ai pu suivre vos explications super intéressantes.

[@flypic1098]

VERY useful thank you. I have a Davinci Aio that I bought in 2015. I've never been happy with results and failure to stick to the bed. I just bought PLA to give that a try. It sticks to the bed but the nozzle just blocks a little way into the print. I bought a cleaning filament but that made no difference. Just ordered some Magigoo as seen in another of your vids and now downloaded the cura software to try. I really found this a big help. Jim

[@mp6814]

Excellent, thanks!!

[@me43935]

awesome.... Thank you...

[@mszoomy]

Thanks Doc. I just got my first printer about 3 weeks ago, wow I really had no idea what I was getting into 😆 but I'm determined. The first video of yours I watched I was completed overwhelmed, you were talking about changing G-code, 😵 I thought to myself, "oh hell no!!" I almost stopped watching your videos after that one, I was so lost. I'm getting it tho, I think the hardest part is making changes to setting and then having to wait a couple hours to see if it made a difference. Patience is not my friend

[@Pigjes]

Thanks so much!

[@colinfielder6695]

I appreciate the information Ivr

[@mikejones-vd3fg]

great stuff

[@catgarcia2238]

thank you sir

[@kellyvb9881]

GREAT videos Sir. I have a Ender 5 with a EZABL installed. I am playing around with Prusa slicer as well as Cura 4.8. I have noticed that when Cura slicer is printing the z axis doesn't doesn't move like its compensating for uneven bed BUT, when Prusa slicer is printing the z axis moves back like its trying to compensate for uneven bed. Seems like the Cura slicer isn't even looking at the bed. Am i missing something here? Kelly in San Antonio

[@DodgaOfficial]

Damn busting out the Aristotle for 3d printing, I love it

[@3dprintingfun329]

Very nice vid

[@CharlieBasta]

Yay! More Dr. Vax.

[@guidomersmann9744]

If you click on the colored arrows in Cura (not the colored rings) you can turn the model in fixed steps. Makes it a lot easier to get a 180 or 45 degree turn. Nice Video.

[@MakeWithTech]

Excellent point. Thanks for sharing.

[@guidomersmann9744]

It is not. There are several ways in Cura to rotate an Object. Usually 90* is enough, so you don’t need the thin lines anyway. There is even a way to make the Objekt fall flat onto a specific side. The only thing I hate about object positioning is that you need main settings to turn on/off auto placement in z direction. That should really be an option in the positioning menu.

[@ElliottMorris]

Awesome job! Thank you for all your content. As an ex-IBMer of similar "vintage", it's tough for me to say that to an ex-DEC/VAX guy. :)

[@MakeWithTech]

Thanks. I understand your struggle but do we all miss JCL?

[@ElliottMorris]

@@MakeWithTech LOL - can't say that I do!

[@dollarbill93]

Hey doc... can you do a video on wear and general maintenance. Im new to the scene... things are looking..... dusty. How often should i clean, lubricate, switch nozzles, replace hot bed glass. Etc.

[@nathans.3751]

Great video

[@MakeWithTech]

Wow. You watched that fast. Thanks for the comment.

[@nathans.3751]

​@@MakeWithTech I will admit I typed that before I finished watching it. After watching it to the end I stand by my comment though. Great video.

[@MakeWithTech]

Thanks.

[@duncanpower0]

Good Afternoon, many thanks for yet another great video. All useful and pertinent information. I have a question about updating firmware ie Marlin using Visual stdio code. Simply its this: to update do you have to go though all the code agin to change the code for your machine and personal settings? or can you just update but your settings remain. Might be a silly question but just cannot find the answer.

[@b-rad7708]

when you upgrade the firmware to a new version of marlin in vs code you need to make sure you have the proper configuration for your machine. Once you have the proper config, any settings that you want/don't want you need to go through and comment/uncomment each feature depending on your preference. then you need to go through and make sure that your steps/mm are properly set, as well as any other settings such as offsets, precofigured temps and all that good stuff is properly set for your printer. Most of the time it will be but i always double check before building and updating. To answer your question, Yes you must change the code everytime you update your machine. The settings from your previous build will not be carried over to the new one, rather you are flashing an entirly new firmware to the machine, not updating the existing firmware. Hope this helps.

[@duncanpower0]

@@b-rad7708 Many thanks for taking the time to reply much appreciated.

[@MrOrangeman18]

Awesome. Would love you to do a multi part video series explaining all the settings. There a few on there where the description does not help you in the slightest

[@jfrunn]

Install the cura plugin from the menu, not sure what it is called not sitting at my home computer presently, but it will be obvious when you go to the cura plugin tab, its about "setting guide" or something like that, once its installed you can right click on any setting and get a more indepth explanation of cause and effect of the setting. Very useful

[@Dr_Mauser]

So an issue I'm having is that Cura doesn't seem to retract while making supports or infill. Right now I'm printing a Rocket Nozzle model, it has a support on the inside, and supports on the outside. And I'm seeing it lay down strings from the outer support to the inner support, right through the model. I've seen other stray strings inside other models as they print which aren't in the preview. I haven't had problems with retraction when it's working on walls, just infill and supports. And I haven't been playing with those settings (yet). What am I looking for? Wipe seemed like a possibility.

[@AviDarks]

can you share the profile cura?

[@Matt2chee]

Excuse me for asking. Have I in the past ever see you at 105 and Kinsman at the Schvitz?

[@davesage9190]

Great video. Noob Question for Cura. After you make all these changes and you're happy with them, how do you save that configuration under a new name so it can be called back for use again? I haven't seen an obvious "save configuration" option. Thanks

[@TheKryptxc]

On print settings, go to Profile, and there should be a button that says "Create Profile from Current settings" or something around those lines. It will allow you to create a new profile with the settings you edited, and even name the profile to go back to it.

[@davesage9190]

@@TheKryptxc Ok. Thanks. I'll take a look. I thought I looked there. Hmm Thanks

[@TheKryptxc]

@@davesage9190 nP lmk if you can’t find it

[@exqueue3813]

Your profile name is listed above your settings. If you click on the star it pulls up the profile menu, where you can update the selected profile or create a new one.

[@jakubsvoboda5417]

Hello how to properly calibrate the axes on ender 5 Do you have anyone verified the settings thank you for the information in advance

[@baddan]

Could you make Simplify quality hints? Thanks @DrVax

[@gauravmathur4940]

Hello sir can you review ultimaker s5 please

[@3dprint170]

How do you sort the video into sections?

[@abhiisnotme]

hello, i just wanted to ask how the anet et4 of yours was holding up, mine has been having weird issues like parping, z offset inconsistancies and such

[@MakeWithTech]

Mine has been fine. However, I also make sure I check that all of the bolts/screws holding the frame together are always tight. I check the belts and make sure they are snug. All 3d printers bounce around a lot while working and things become loose.

[@abhiisnotme]

@@MakeWithTech so mine just needed some stick glue on the bed for it to work, im hyped! Im also gonna print a belt tensioner for it to keep it exact, thanks for the reply

[@spongecounter]

I had thought that the20 mm width of the test cube (cat) would be primarily controlled by the XY steps per mm. The flow should only control the line thickness. So flow rate should be measured with one or two line thicknesses at most?

[@TheBalubaer]

I also understand it that way, therefore I´m wondering why he is changing the flow.

[@MrOrangeman18]

Best way to check flow is make a cube with no top layer and set it to one layer thick at 0.4mm line width. If it prints it at 0.4mm then it’s fine. If not the. Adjust the flow to suit

[@snarkfinder2621]

@@MrOrangeman18 And print it in vase mode, or Spiralise Outer Contour (Special Modes) as it is called in Cura.

[@harrygithens3908]

Have you heard of any issues with the creality V4.2.7 board? I have two ender 3 and two CR-10 all of them Have a CR TOUCH and all of then the hot end fluctuates If I set the temp for 200 it goes to 230 then down to 190 then back up to 210 and back down to 195 and now it will go from 195 to 210 for the rest of the time I have run a M 303 and I get this (PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high) Do you have anything on this

[@danmatthew1720]

Hi I have ender 3 with marlin bugfix I use cura when print starts it goes down the side and back leaving a good bead but when it goes over to print nothing prints leaves mark onglass but no filament comming out what am I doing wrong thanks

[@andrewstalinski7193]

How do you make the same project at the same time

[@guinnessme]

can you share the profile cura

[@danst1r228]

How do you get rid of the melted bottom even your good model has a mash first 4 layers

[@MakeWithTech]

Lower print bed temperature.

[@xDNightmarex]

@@MakeWithTech and/or play around with a small negative initial layer horizontal expansion value in cura. I usually run -0.1/0.2mm with a 0.4 nozzle

[@tonylattimore1343]

HOW DO I CUT A MODEL THAT IS TO LARGE FOR THE BED THAT CAN BE PRINTED TO FIT TOGEATHER WHEN PRINTED IN SECTIONS ?

[@chrisstoltz9745]

can you explain how to print a project in different colours with Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1 on Ender-3V2 please i try CHEP but he do not respond to Questions

[@michaelplaczek9385]

Experiment with Coasting to get rid of occasional bumps in the print

[@MakeWithTech]

Good area. This is a very different approach but is likely to work. It may be a bit more difficult to tune. Time will tell.

[@STRB909]

This is more Cura Basics 1A ... That printer with settings needs to go through all the steps from Teacing Tech to get better 3D prints. Then the print quality will be almost as good at the higher speed.

[@KavorkaDesigns]

😎

[@djdxb]

Listen Irv....we need to talk about something serious here....is Capricorn tubbing really the best option out? I say Nay good sir

[@MakeWithTech]

What do you recommend as an alternative?

[@djdxb]

@@MakeWithTech I discovered TecBoss and never went back.

[@jackel7668]

Hi sorry to bother you but my name is Colin and im a disabled retired man now ive been following your calibration video. I have a Xvico X3S printer and ive followed your video in hope that it will sort out some printing issues but unfortunately it has not solved it. What im getting is i think you call it bridging say i got a square block with 2 posts what it is doing is bridging between the posts and any gap or hole there is can anyone please help with this a photo can be provided if needed. All the very best. Colin

[@MakeWithTech]

I recommend heading over to forum.drvax.com Then register and post a picture with your questions. Best way to get help.

[@AndrewAHayes]

It is accepted that printing larger layers increase layer strength, however, if I make a print with a raft and I set my layers to less than 0.2mm the ability to remove that raft decreases, at 0.12mm I have to use a carving chisel to remove them. Do you have any ideas about what is happening here?

[@MattJonesYT]

Do you mean you need a chisel to separate the raft from the print? Usually the finest vertical print resolution is around .1mm depending on how well you have your z axis dialed in so at .12mm you are approaching that and might be getting layers of the raft bonding to the bottom of the print where it should not.

[@exqueue3813]

Because at super low layer heights there is a lot of pressure coming out of the nozzle, smushing the filament into the raft. Also at low layers you are more affected if your bed is leveled too close.

[@exqueue3813]

I think you're confusing material strength and layer adhesion. Thicker lines are stronger but that doesn't mean they stick to each other better. If you print at a high layer height your print could end up weaker. What matters for adhesion is the ratio of layer height to line width.

[@MakeWithTech]

You are correct. When I say more plastic I mean more infill and more perimeters. Larger layer lines are only stronger when printing in vase mode.

[@jackel7668]

look im really sorry for this and it might make me out to be a 5yr old but i just cant find out how to create or make or start a new forum / topic / post so i can ask my question and post my photo. Please help god i feel stupid its proberbly right under my nose .Thank you

[@nelsonbrum8496]

Arc Welder plugin = wonder worker..

[@krukhlis]

Nice video, especially for newbies. But you should definetly make next step and cover Linear Advance( or Pressure advance if using Klipper firmware) topic. Because this thing has significanly more impact on everything than all the options described in this video( beside the seam): - Better dimensional precision - Higher printing speeds are possible without any loss of print quality. - Visible print quality is increased even at lower printing speeds. - No need for high acceleration and jerk values to get sharp edges, which means you can get super high quality at high printing speed without putting your cheap printer to the edge of its physical capabilities and limitted rigidity. Once you start using of Linear Advance -- you will never return to regular default legacy mode with all these jerks, virtual acceleration, etc tunning and every-print choice of quality vs total printing speed. You will get both quality and speed simultaneously.

[@maxdarkdog5051]

Cura quality hint for better prints : use prusa slicer 😂😂😂 (joke) But really you have to check it out! The last 2.3.0 version is the best yet... I even paid a simplify 3d licence I don't use anymore because prusa slicer is Waaaaay more advanced

[@Whitewing89]

What the hell is ghosting?

[@mamatuja]

But I don't wanna slow it down.🙄

[@Ebbrush3]

brim = raft

[@jujucattys156]

gd vids but all wase over complicated for me

[@MakeWithTech]

I have many beginning videos on the channel. Go to KZbin.com/c/makewithcheck to find all of my videos

[@jujucattys156]

@@MakeWithTech ye it’s not u m8 it’s me to dum understand proply lol

[@AndrewAHayes]

Erv Qidi is pronounced Chee Dee

[@donthomson6260]

PEE IEEE DEEE not pid