Custom Fuel System × 4BT Cummins Discovery #20 [Land Rover Build]

[@Tinker1837]

NOTE: Fuel filter is up by the engine, a screen before the lift pump & a filter/water-trap after it, all before the injection pump. Also I may add an aftermarket prefilter setup, but not yet since I'm not sure whether or not I'll utilize bio or waste oils with this build.

[@lsjones42]

Heck yeah! I’ve bing watched this whole series. I’ve been wanting to put a 4bt in mine

[@dhc4ever]

yep winter is comming......

[@Tinker1837]

Landon Jones We must 4BT all the things!

[@Tinker1837]

dhc4ever That it is, & wicked fast!

[@joemeehan8250]

Great job. That’s the difference between a carnival and Disneyland... Details. Looks clean.

[@Tinker1837]

Joseph Meehan Thanks man!

[@nathanspalink5438]

Badass dude. Nice work

[@Tinker1837]

Nathan Spalink Thanks!

[@ejoautovideos]

Really glad KZbin recommended this. Super good work! 👍

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks! I've been trying to step it up with this build 😎

[@bladenrexroth2555]

Should of wrapped the fuel lines with insulated conduit. Used a fuel tank heater as well. That way you could be more self sufficient and run filtered waste fluids.

[@xArondightx]

Anytime I see a fuel pump removal I have PTSD from replacing the pump on my XJ. Your sending unit is beyond cool, is there a reason you didn't use a sending unit from a 200/300 TDI? I believe they use the same fuel tank as the V8.

[@Tinker1837]

Clifton Rodgers That's no kidding, can be a serious pain! Thought about trying a TD5 sender, but as it turns they use an in-tank pump as wel,l so I'd have to chop it up too. The new 4BT setup has the 1st stage of fuel pump mounted on the side of the block, instead of in the tank, & actually runs off of the camshaft with a rocker arm of sorts.

[@xArondightx]

Was actually referring to the 300TDI which uses a similar engine mounted mechanical fuel pump. Yours actually looks like a much better design than the OE unit, I just figured the only advantage would be a working level sensor.

[@Tinker1837]

Clifton Rodgers Ohhh okay now I'm with you, & that would've been a good option if I was using the old gauge cluster, probably shares the same ohm range for the gauge mine has. I went with a reed style level sensor that'll work with most any aftermarket gauge, think I found a series of gauges that'll cover everything I need. Plus it should do a much better job at reading levels accurately when I'm off road vs the float arm variety. Although I do wish my tank had a drain plug like I see most the Defenders have!

[@bladenrexroth2555]

Should of wrapped the fuel lines with insulated tape with heated wire and put it in conduit. Used a fuel tank heater as well. That way you could be more self sufficient and run filtered waste fluids.

[@Tinker1837]

Bladen Rexroth Ooooo that's an interesting idea! Thankfully they're real easy to get at with the way I mounted them, so if wanted to do so later on it wouldn't be a big deal.

[@nzrestoration9486]

You have done such a great job on the engineering but you might want to consider looking after that chassis before it disappears!

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks & yeah it looks much worse than it is thankfully since the back of the truck sits over a part of the concrete floor that always sweating so the rust just rubs right off with the dirt. But I'm going to scrub it down & slather in a special coating before too long.

[@roverron7509]

First class.

[@Tinker1837]

Rover Ron Thanks :)

[@zluca05]

I too just watched all 20 episodes. This is a long process and its great to see you're committed to get it done and done correctly. I like what you've done so far. I've been thinking about a 4BT swap into a Jeep TJ and watching your series and a few others here on KZbin have really given me the itch to start. Your videos are very informative and amusing keep em coming.

[@TheCanadianBubba]

Beautiful work ! that sender / pickup unit is some Jedi shit right there !

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks!

[@Bread996]

In my experience. Install the rubber seal on the tank first, then push the sending unit through it. The first time I filled my tank fuel overflowed all over the ground. I would check that because it didn't look seated in the video. I also found that aftermarket sending units would not allow the guage to read correctly. At least in 2003 Discovery, the guage needs a 15-251 ohm range whereas most aftermarket guages are 33-240 ohms and the gauge will never read past 3/4 tank. I had to attach the land rover sending unit to my diesel pickup assembly.

[@Tinker1837]

Good looking out, but that clip of me tightening the ring over the sender was just for the video edit, because I ended up having to get a second set of hands to secure the 2 retaining clips. I had it all greased up so it wouldn't bind up as I got it threaded down proper & verified the installed height using a measurement I took off the old sender. And I'm not using any of the old gauges, she's getting a complete electrical overhaul from front to back (dual jacket tinned wire, weatherproof deutsch plugs, breakers instead of fuses, dual batteries, etc). So this new reed-style level sensor is more of an upgrade than replacement vs the float-arm style, will read way more accurate while off road!

[@Bread996]

Ok cool. It was embarrassing having my tank overlfow at the service station so didn't want it to happen to anybody else. The one benefit to a factory style pickup assembly is that the cup on the bottom holds some fuel, preventing it from sucking air when making corners or driving up a slope. Nice on the electrical work as well. I don't know why I've wasted so much time on my build making the factory gauges to work. Didn't want to bother making a custom cluster, but realzing now in the end that would probably have been easier.

[@Tinker1837]

I appreciate the insight though! I love all the advice coming from strangers here & on forums, always trying to stay flexible with outside input on a project like this. And I have no doubt I'll have some embarrassing moments when I fire this thing up, forgetting things & all that.

[@verlicht]

That was a good opportunity to also do the undercarriage. Some rust proofing maybe?

[@Tinker1837]

For sure! I'm waiting to finish the swap & then I intend to restore the whole frame & all the brackets. I'll gently sandblast everything & spray it with some fancy stainless steel flake spray, & then wax coat the internals. The frame used to be so pretty, it just took me way too long to figure out the moisture issues in that shop :(

[@verlicht]

@@Tinker1837 Mine (TD5 110) stays outside as it's my daily and it also needs some love on the frame.

[@Tinker1837]

@@verlicht It's not too hard to repair, just takes a looooong time.

[@quixoticonetheentity3885]

It's just so amazing to watch you rebuild these Land (Rhinos) Rovers These machines are beastly designed like they are the safari

[@Tinker1837]

It's fun to take the tough Rover design to the maximum I can manage :D

[@frankmatiella2446]

This is an amazing video. Best breakdown and explanation of the process that I have ever seen.And without a single word. Thank you

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks man, & that's right about exactly what I'm aiming for with a lot of these clips. I get that tons of people like the "vlog style" builds but I'm just not a fan of that most the time.

[@kierankay100]

loving this build

[@Tinker1837]

It's wicked fun :)

[@maxred1]

Here in Brazil the owners of Land Rover suffer from lack of specialized mechanics. My Lr3 2.7 Diesel. The motor is faulty. If I could I would do the same thing you did.

[@Tinker1837]

Many shops around here in Michigan are unsure about working on Land Rovers too, but then again I wouldn't let a shop touch my truck.

[@neilbrundage1372]

The EZ-TRAK sure is handy.

[@Tinker1837]

That it is! I keep suggesting we should pitch in for a Bridgeport out at his house... but then we might never be able to pry him outta his shop again haha

[@user-hy2ih6hw5n]

💪👍👍

[@joyyoung4482]

Lovely work

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks :)

[@weshenderson4158]

Thumbs up to all your work but if I may... I definitely wouldn't cure any paints or coatings in your oven that you use for food. There are harmful byproducts that you can't remove from the oven once you have done so. I always keep a second oven in my garage for this reason. I would move your kitchen one out to the shop and replace it.

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks & good looking out! That appliance needs replacing altogether & only the range top is used, so the oven goes unused with no danger to cooking. Only used for parts on rare occasion.

[@peterjuhasz5143]

Amazing job! Congrat! You are great!

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks :)

[@maxred1]

Perfect Gostaria de fazer isso na minha discovery 3

[@Tinker1837]

Leonidio Oliveira Neto Obrigado! Isso seria bom

[@explorer8888]

I just watched all 20 videos. What an awesome project/conversion! Great skills. My hat off to you. Subscribed and following from Puerto Rico.

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks, many more to come! :)

[@scottyhoxsey5513]

Clean as hell good work!!

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks man!

[@MrEyad1990]

And how does that fuel level sensor works ? Also the fuel pump is in the engine ?.old school pump right ? Isnt it better to update it to N elictric one ?

[@Tinker1837]

It uses a series of resistors & a magnet in a linear movement, so it's more compact & accurate for an offroad vehicle versus the swing-float style. The engine has a camshaft driven high-volume low-pressure "lift pump" to draw from the fuel tank, then the high-pressure injection pump takes it from there to the cylinders. Very simple & dependable non-electric system 👍

[@whiteshadow1795]

J’adore vivement la suite

[@Tinker1837]

Merci!

[@noureddinelatreche2675]

artiste

[@Tinker1837]

Thank you :)

[@curoar5500]

AAAAAA!! Fantastic work, but will you ever finish it?

[@Tinker1837]

Oh yes, of course ;)

[@neilmarshall4927]

What size deep well socket is that for the filler neck size?

[@Tinker1837]

Gas pump nozzles are 0.81 inches, and diesel pumps 0.94, so I used a 1 inch socket to make sure I had a little wiggle room for sizing up my filler on the Disco.

[@vernmeyer4485]

Ok,I have a 1960 Series II,88 that I put a 6AT Turow Cummings with a NV4500 trans. Do you work on others?

[@Tinker1837]

Awesome! That must be a one of a kind combination, no? I've not worked on either of those.

[@jonathanfannin3974]

What was your main source of fuel line and fittings? I’m thinking of Parker pushlok line but just wanted to weigh my options???

[@Tinker1837]

Jonathan Fannin All of it came from Summit Racing. The hose is all Eaton Aeroquip PTFE & most the fittings as well, but some adapters & odd fittings are either Vibrant or Russell.

[@jonathanfannin3974]

Thanks!!! I appreciate the info. Love this build! Look forward to future vids!

[@NeoB-Lac]

Can I take you my 1965 impala so you can do new brake system like the other car and fuel like this? Lol

[@Tinker1837]

That's a beauty of a car! I don't think I'll ever go back to hardline after learning to work properly with AN hose. It's just so easy to work with & longer lasting. Well worth the slight added cost when it's a project that goes thru extremes or changes often.

[@thordehr]

What fuel level sender is that? Looks pretty compact.

[@Tinker1837]

That is a Rochester Gauges #9800 marine "reed style" fuel sender, usually ~$40 & more accurate in offroad situations vs the swing float style.

[@thordehr]

@@Tinker1837 Thanks, have been looking for something similar.

[@scenicdepictionsofchicagolife]

Where do you live that spring ends in mid July???

[@Tinker1837]

It was a joke, as in I was running late with the project :P

[@NeoB-Lac]

What does the - in -8an mean?

[@Tinker1837]

As far as I understand it is a suffix meant to be attached at the end of the fittings number in 1/16" increments. So if you had some fitting with the part 999, then the fitting for 1/16" inner diameter pipe would be 999-1. Then each "dash number" up is another 1/16" larger, so 999-4 would be a 999 style fitting with a pipe size of 4/16" aka 1/4", or in other words a -16AN size is 16/16" aka 1". It's clever once you realize! Leave it to military & aerospace to come up with that 🤓

[@ricardor395]

Where did you buy all the fittings??

[@Tinker1837]

Usually from Summit Racing.

[@ricardor395]

@@Tinker1837 thanks

[@Tinker1837]

Happy to help :)

[@user-ev3xt6jn3n]

Класс вы супер

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks :)

[@samuelberryhill4558]

No fass or air dog?

[@Tinker1837]

Not yet, haven't decided whether I'll be running straight pump diesel or mixing it up with waste oils, so until then I'm keeping it simple so I don't run into compatibility issues.

[@samuelberryhill4558]

Okay I understand that I was just wondering because I’ve seen to many of the p pumps go bad from not having a lift pump behind them

[@Tinker1837]

@@samuelberryhill4558 The fuel system will definitely evolve over time & those systems are badass. Biggest thing I'm stuck on is alternative fuels in the cold, what with Michigan weather & wanting to wander further north when it's done. Fuel turning to gel sounds like a nightmare!

[@tannernewton8543]

You make Firetrucks?

[@Tinker1837]

Just matchbox

[@wesm6422]

Why did you drop the tank?

[@Tinker1837]

To remove the fuel pump & install a simple fuel straw & a better level sensor, since the 4BT is all mechanical & has a camshaft driven "lift pump" that does all the work drawing from the tank.

[@94Discovery]

No fuel diesel filter?

[@Tinker1837]

94Discovery The filter's actually mounted on the engine. You can see on the driver's side, it's red & looks similar to an oil filter.

[@94Discovery]

Tinker what about an electric lift pump with all the high angles while offroading ,you do not worry about fuel starvation ?

[@Tinker1837]

94Discovery Nah, no need, an electric pump in there can't reach any lower than the straw I have (which is only a 0.25-0.5inch / 6-12mm from the bottom). Well, if I started chasing huge power with compound turbos & big injectors then I'd want an added in-tank pump, for the extra flow.

[@Tinker1837]

Oh & I did upgrade the fuel level sensor to the "reed style" which is much more accurate with high angles.

[@njdevi11]

Get yourself an air dog. clean fuel = happy engine.

[@Tinker1837]

I made sure to leave some gaps between the hose brackets so I'd have room to maybe add a system like that in the future, but thanks for the recommendation!