Custom Game Boy Advance Motherboard (with RGB!)

This is a pre-production sample board and some features may NOT be final!
Now available on RGRS's site (and in several colors AND with the gold plated cart slot): retrogamerepairshop.com/produ...
This is an affiliate link.
Also in stock direct from funnyplaying (though at time of writing, color selection is limited): funnyplaying.com/collections/...
Not to be confused with the n64freak GBA board I did previously: • Assembling a GBA... Fr...
This is a brand new design intended to be a drop in replacement for the original GBA system board. You will need to salvage a working CPU and SRAM from any model GBA (note that SP CPUs will not work), 32 or 40 pin is irrelevant, and then you should be good to go with any screen that supports 32 pin GBAs (does not support 40 pin screens, even if the CPU came from a 40 pin donor).
The supporting circuitry has been redesigned to address a lot of the flaws with the design of the original circuit and to support modern power handling and audio amplifiers but time will tell how the design ages.
Unlike the n64freak boards, these do come pre-populated with most parts, however, including full aftermarket replacements for nearly every component (amp, cart connector, power management, link port, etc) and new old stock parts for everything else (power switch, L and R buttons).
Sleep may be triggered with the A+B+Select button combo and should work for every single game, including previously unsupported titles.
RGB may be triggered by holding A and B for 2+ seconds.
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Please be sure to check my website for more information including some handy links for useful resources, tools I use, and my socials: makhowastaken.com/

[@Ray3D]

Wow! really great video. And thanks for showing the soldering process for the CPU. That looks hard and terrifying.

[@ZippletTech]

This is an excellent product - I hope it comes to market. Thanks Makho for the nice video - I always enjoy the soldering vids :) I personally find soldering very relaxing to do myself as well.

[@xXwheezyownzXx]

Makho, you have no idea how much this video influenced me lol. I got this board but in purple instead of black. I have 2 consoles now, this board with a clear kit like your front plate with usb c battery, and a 2nd kit with a standard mobo and all the extras (speaker, amp, power cleaner, clean light kit, etc). I love them both. But this one is by far my favorite and looks so clean! But the soldering, I’m a novice when it comes to that. But a full day of patience and a microscope and I’m another assembled console later. You are a great influence in the gba modding world. Keep up the great work and content!

[@makho]

lemme see them builds

[@xXwheezyownzXx]

@@makho I’ll definitely send them to you when my replacement screens come in! I’m also waiting on a 2nd funny playing board to make a second custom one.

[@Blood_Dragon]

this is actually pretty sick!! gonna grab one when they launch

[@misterdneh]

I just ordered myself a board wish me luck this looks fun, I literally removed the card slot while listening to you solder the CPU lol

[@devol430]

Watching your video gave me anxiety 1. Always Dropping things 2. Your hot air station cable in the way 3. You don’t pre tin 4. Don’t clean the old components But please don’t stop making content 😂 👍🏼 What are those clamps and where can I get some?

[@dvdcstrjn]

Holy I got some AGBs that have some nasty corrosion this would be really cool once available also thanks for the content

[@Gamer_Ayame]

What an exciting thing for the modding community 🎉

[@icedteaaddict4842]

Well, here's another thing for my christmas list, lol. Can't wait to hear more about this.

[@Omega_2]

So, we can finally salvage all the broken units and harvest their parts…

[@Omega_2]

and you just had to gently set the CPU down, twice even.

[@makho]

This requires an aptitude for soldering. I don't suspect this will be a "solution" for most people.

[@jake.raynor]

@@makho I see there is an option to purchase the mobo with cores already soldered on. Does that solve the problem there?

[@makho]

@@jake.raynor Yep, I suppose it's a partial solution. I wasn't even aware they were going to sell those versions until about 20 minutes before the listing went up when I got a weird question in my inbox.

[@sleuthyz]

GBA 2! Would love to see something like a Pi Pico or Teensy 4.0 as like a Co processor for people to mess around with and Develop games for.

[@MattHorton]

Omg this is incredible

[@reverseretro1961]

I wonder if they will sell the GBA cart slot separately. It would be great for just replacing corroded/broken slots on units that can be fixed.

[@fingers__]

Waiting to see the video on the final laminated ips kit

[@chrismckay3868]

I am very eager to see those card slots become available, I recently picked up a gba in need of one. The poor thing will only read dmg ms packman and some bootleg pokemon games as it is lol It is kind of funny how the non sp gba is the only one you can't get a card slot for...

[@davidh585]

Hey, how's the audio quality over headphones? The original has a lot of EMI which is made way worse when adding backlit screen mods. Lots of high frequency whine and chitter chatter. Does the new board and audio circuit clean that up?

[@makho]

I never use any GB with headphones so I have no real frame of reference. Sounds fine to me though, albeit dual mono instead of stereo (both LR channels sent to both LR).

[@xamieificationable]

With the wireless adapter I have a hard time getting it to work on agb in general, like I can only get it to work on one of mine when i sorta half pull it out. I only have one sp to test this on but it works flawlessly each time on it

[@lvgs7348]

I wonder where they get their “cores” since I ordered one with the core on the board because they were out of stock of the other one… wonder if it’ll be beneficial to swap out the ram and cpu with original Ones

[@HighPower64]

Their “cores” come from original boards. It will not work with anything else.

[@PurpleKangaroo4]

where did you get those pcb holders?

[@steffenno8004]

Where did you get that concave bevel tip for your iron? I've been looking for a tip like that for my Pinecil but haven't been able to find any. Closest thing I have is the normal bevel tips (BC2 and C4).

[@makho]

It's a BC2. I normally use a K tip though.

[@steffenno8004]

@@makho Ah ok! Then I guess I already have what I was looking for :) Love watching your videos, they're a great resource for a beginner!

[@wesuda]

I finally got a funnyplaying board and I was able to transfer a working CPU and memory to the new board. I got it to turn on and it recognizes a GBA and or GBC cartridge but it does not load. Do you know if this is indication of a short during soldering? What can I do for troubleshooting?

[@makho]

check all your solder joints. Use a microscope.

[@flyingchicken33]

Do you recommened heating the board from underneath to remove the cpu? To avoid long heat cycles?Apparently i cooked my cpu that i attempted to do the transplant. (Low heat/time was the culprit).

[@makho]

I haven't needed to preheat the board nor have I ever cooked a CPU. I just hot air it off and move on.

[@theleumaseleets]

TL:DR; once these boards become available, I plan on buying 2. I have a GBA that I messed up when trying to do the Woozle Consolizer mod that used the flex cable soldered directly to the CPU, and then when trying to replace the clock crystal with a good one I managed to accidentally knock off 2 capacitors and lost them (C4 and C54 if I remember correctly). Surprisingly, the GBA still functioned until I desoldered the flex cable despite the fact that I accidentally broke one of the legs on the CPU. If I had remembered to use flux when initially soldering the flex cable, I probably would have successfully installed it because my issue was that a couple of the pins for the controls were shorted together and I damaged it during my attempts to fix the shorts. Even now, the power LED will briefly flash when I turn it on, so I still have hope that one day I can repair it. I have a second GBA that was having problems with the lowest volume that it would output, and when I first got it the volume would turn on when the volume wheel was turned all the way to the left. I was able to resolve that issue with some IPA, but that led to the low volume cutoff problem. I couldn't leave well enough alone and when I replaced the volume wheel, I could no longer control the volume and it was stuck at about half volume, and turning the volume wheel had no impact on the volume, and even with the volume wheel desoldered it's still at the same volume. I've replaced the capacitors on the GBA, but unfortunately two of the pads for the volume wheel were lifted the last time I was desoldering the volume wheel.

[@makho]

The soldering required here is more difficult than the mods you were not successful with. This is not the solution until you have a lot more practice under your belt.

[@theleumaseleets]

@@makho I've ordered multiple surface mount soldering practice kits to hone my skills before I even touch the CPU on either GBA, although I hope that I can figure out the reason for the audio problem with the otherwise functional GBA.

[@SimpleEnigma331]

Can you detail more about the ultra sonic cleaning process you use? what liquid do you use?

[@makho]

I just switched processes and need to run some boards before I want to talk about it. Old process was full of unsafe practices.

[@SimpleEnigma331]

@@makho i appreciate the honesty. I love your content and put a lot of trust in your methods as a hobbyist at best. Your videos helped me through my first mods and I’m interested more of your advanced method. Really curious how you would do something like the Gameboy Pocket Colors that require component replacement. Hot air station or do you have a reflow oven?

[@makho]

@@SimpleEnigma331 I mean, I've done boards like that already: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXm7p5d_rNCeapo I tend to use a combination of hot air, a hot plate, and my soldering iron

[@brooklyn11218]

What are those pcb holders you're using? They look useful.

[@makho]

pcbite from sensepeek

[@DrJIMMI]

I have 2 AGS-001 motherboards that are cracked. The CPU and RAM are in good working order. I wonder if I can swap those over to these new Funny playing boards

[@makho]

The CPUs are not the same. Count the pins if you don't believe me.

[@DrJIMMI]

@@makho oh I believe you, just never went through the trouble of trying to figure out the differences. I did see they are different model CPUs though

[@hanskans5100]

What a useful video thank you for that :) I want to do the same. could you fixed the problem with the link cable? Without it would be a bummer

[@makho]

This is the older design of the board with larger LEDs and the link port issues are a result of a soldering defect with the ferrite beads near the port. You can manually touch up the solder and fix the issue in about 30 seconds if you have an affected board. After the first batch, funnyplaying revised the board to use different ferrite beads (and much smaller LEDs) and this problem has since not reoccurred.

[@corkmongler7888]

Hey Mahko, I have been trying to do this and everytime I get the cpu and ram tacked down and soldered in my gameboy doesn't even power the display - confirmed working on an original board. I am sure it is something I am doing wrong. I have no bridges that I can see when I get this done, but I am removing the cpu / ram with hot air @650F. Is this too hot and am I damaging the IC's internally? I can not find a straight answer anywhere about what temperature is OK. Looking for some professional insight.

[@makho]

I'd recommend a microscope to inspect your soldering. The pins are very small and very close together. Datasheets are not available for these parts so no one can give you an answer on the temp. You'd have to see if you can find data sheets for comparable parts and go from there.

[@corkmongler7888]

@@makho Thank you. You make it look so easy 😜

[@SippinFortiez]

What shells are you using for the clear/red gba? Is that a laminated screen?

[@makho]

Funnyplaying makes "mirror clear" shells and the particular shells I used were an older variant of those made before they started making ITA kits (and shells for those kits). Not laminated. I used an older backlight kit too. This is the next closest thing for the shells: retrogamerepairshop.com/collections/gba-shells/products/funnyplaying-game-boy-advance-ips-ready-mirror-polished-shells And the backlight kit is here but discontinued: retrogamerepairshop.com/collections/gba-displays/products/funnyplaying-gba-ips-v2-game-boy-advance-backlight-mod

[@adamcrux6829]

So I've been working on an lost/abandoned GBA that was badly damaged. I have it back working and ordered a new case with a laminated IPS LCD kit + lithium USB-C battery + Omega Drive flash cart. So none of this new stuff has arrived yet but I'm starting to have concerns about the capacitors since it was left out in the elements for an undeterminable amount of time. I don't want to get it all together just to find out the caps are week and can't power cycle properly or even worse won't work at all. So now I'm kinda torn on spending another $60 on this free GBA for this new MB to make sure it is 100% functional and will last a good long time (I'm certain the CPU+RAM chips are fine and I can know how solder them to new board) . (especially since they now gold plate the cart pins). When the coolest part of swapping to this MB is the RGB LEDS but I ordered a classic grey case :, (... So should I just order the replacement caps $2.99 and take a chance on this MB or spend the $60 for this new MB which would put me around $200 spent on this GBA that I found in a ditch... But it would be a pretty sick GBA...

[@makho]

I mean, you can always test it once the stuff you ordered comes in. It's all more or less "drop in", especially for someone who can solder the fine pitch CPU in these things.

[@VworksArt]

Do you recommend that sainsmart power supply? I've seen mixed reviews.

[@makho]

Mine is miniware branded and I've personally had zero issues with it. I use it quite frequently.

[@VworksArt]

@@makho Thanks!

[@Tim_Heaven]

1:10:44 hello. what is this for a black board? with capasitor? is this a old set from funnyplaying?

[@makho]

The flash cart?

[@Tim_Heaven]

@@makho i see capasitor in this gba at time 1:10:42 and you bild a gba black board with out capasitors by the beginig the video?

[@makho]

@@Tim_Heaven kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2bTeIyZa7F3e7M

[@az_tinkerer_gamer]

I just did this last night with a red mobo. Boots up but doesnt load game. Had to take a break to let my head clear lol. Hopefully ipa in cart slot will do the trick.

[@makho]

If you mean the funnyplaying board, it's a new cart slot so there should be nothing to clean. Double check your soldering.

[@az_tinkerer_gamer]

@@makho ya, i bought a magnifying headband to see the pins perfectly. Straightened one or two legs perfectly, and solved the issue. Thanks for the reply.

[@larrisAWSOME]

what are those supports/holders you're using?

[@makho]

pcbite by sensepeek

[@az_tinkerer_gamer]

What solution do you use for the sonic cleaner on the mobo?

[@makho]

SRA 35

[@joaopires8164]

OMG THAT'S COOL

[@Gameboy_1992]

Hey! I left a comment on the video where you fixed a ez-flash jr. Maybe you could help me out?

[@JimmyZeng]

I wonder why they didn't use this opportunity to integrate the IPS screen support into the new PCB, instead of still requiring the ribbon cable.

[@makho]

so that you can use any LCD with it

[@graufuchs88]

Is there glue under those chips? I've tried several times with my solder gun and it will NOT come up

[@makho]

I've never seen one with glue.

[@graufuchs88]

@@makho there was glue! Used my hot air gun to get it off

[@pixelprime5908]

Could you use the chips from a busted sp?

[@makho]

Nope, different package chips.

[@ginmil3436]

Any news on the led control? How does it work??

[@makho]

Same as the game boy color LED kits apparently

[@ginmil3436]

@@makho ok I'll try thid

[@Willabeast]

what kind of batteries do i need? and what screen should i get? i dont think the one i have will work

[@makho]

Should work with rechargeable battery mods, NiMh rechargeable AAs, or regular alkaline AAs. Use whatever you prefer. It should work with any backlight kit except AGS-101 mods.

[@Willabeast]

@@makho I need help idk if this screen I have works or how to wire it. I got my retro motherboard in and think I have the CPU and ram soldered in ok.. I can't see any shorts or anything.(did have to unbend pins because I niked one with the solder iron.. but I think I soldered on pretty good now.. I did have to re start like 4 times because I didn't have the right tip.. I hot aired it off every time and didn't bend pins then... But my GBA makes a screaming noise

[@Willabeast]

Update.. my doofus but put the ram in upside down. The screen works but just shows rainbow lines??? Did I ruin my ram ? And CPU?

[@makho]

@@Willabeast I suspect you need to double check your soldering still.

[@eathenalexander2836]

Would they be selling those board without the extra LEDs on them ?

[@makho]

Probably not but you'd have to ask them.

[@jumpingmanjim]

13:22 I think they call these gull wing tips

[@Chimp_Assassin]

Will this work with the CPU and RAM from a GBA SP?

[@makho]

No, not the same part. Count the pins.

[@DigiDeoBuilds]

Is this compatible with the laminated IPS screen?

[@makho]

Should work with everything except maybe an AGS-101 LCD.

[@DigiDeoBuilds]

@@makho awesome Im gonna make one with their new laminated IPS I think it will be a sweet combo

[@james441]

Do you recommend a flash cart for gba?

[@makho]

I don't ever recommend flash carts unless you want to play a ROM hack on hardware.

[@james441]

@@makho what’s the diff? I have gbc carts & a flash cart for my fpgbc and there’s literally no diff except a mental satisfaction that you’re using ‘the real thing’

[@makho]

@@james441 If you're fine with using a cart emulator, then that's fine, I guess. They're less efficient than OEM carts (in terms of power), there are more limitations between supported hardware and clock speeds, and they're more expensive. All in all, there's very little benefit. Just emulate the whole thing; it's a better experience.

[@user-gj6vg6nq2f]

I wonder if they're gonna make sp boards next 🤔

[@makho]

Unlikely. I suspect this board was only ever made as a stepping stone to a different project.

[@jacobjones8396]

​@@makho Interesting, please elaborate!

[@makho]

@@jacobjones8396 Not my place to say. You'll see eventually.

[@short_yeti2058]

Wow those chips came off fast. What's your temp and airflow? I see vids where it's low and they nurse the chips off. Also you mention a sonic cleaner, what solution do you use in it? Cool video

[@makho]

I usually have the temp at the high end of the scale. I figure hotter means less time at temp. And yes, I do use an ultrasonic cleaner. I've just switched to a new method though so I don't really want to talk about it until I can vouch for it.

[@gamejoy-nick]

NOICE... My kinda video

[@choiwaynekiet]

Cool. I have a board that won't boot that I can take the CPU and ram from.

[@jon199680]

I've been trying to fix my gba for weeks, my board is just dead after trying literally everything. Just ordered on of these, it's a risk but if my cpu and ram are fine, ill have something better than another stock gba! (Hopefully I can get it transfered ok)

[@makho]

The GBA ASICs are shockingly hard to kill. That being said, the soldering required is also pretty high level.

[@jon199680]

@@makho Well great news, the transplant was a SUCCESS! I do have one question however, have you figured out how to change the LED color? Funnyplaying says to press start + a/b to change LED color, but that actually changes the brightness. Doing select + a/b does nothing. But all my buttons work

[@makho]

@@jon199680 You have the same documentation I have, unfortunately. I've noticed the LED changes color based on voltage (not just low battery warning) so I didn't think it could be set.

[@jon199680]

@@makho actually, I reached out to Funnyplaying and they sent me a chart with the button combos that actually worked. You have to change each individual LED one at a time. But it can be done. I can email you the chart if you'd like

[@tylerherr4288]

has anyone actually reverse engineered the ENTIRE system? eg NOT having to transplant the cpu and ram cause screw paying out the ass end for a used gba that might not even work

[@makho]

www.analogue.co/pocket

[@sgtmaggi]

I wish I could buy repro cpus. Used market in Germany is insane imo

[@aravindvinayakan]

Hopefully if this comes to market there'll be an optional SMD stencil available for use with a hot plate

[@nerdicusx]

You know what would be legendary! If they remove the D-Pad all together and let you add a Neo Geo Pocket D-pad instead, No more making DMG-104 pro

[@omegamog]

This is cool, but i thought you meant it had native rgb output

[@makho]

No, the other RGB unfortunately.

[@labman472011]

Damn I didn't know Makho was so hairy in the forearms lol

[@makho]

now imagine my forearm hair in your mouth

[@Sharkwedge]

Gosh wish i had such good Equipment and everyhting But fixing many many phones consoles Audio systems etc never brought me anything

[@makho]

I didn't start with this stuff but like all hobbies, we get better and we learn that there are tools that allows us to progress even further. You can spend a few thousand dollars on soldering equipment and still rip pads. If you don't know the fundamentals, you won't go anywhere.

[@Raven3one]

i need the black one and its already sold out lol

[@makho]

All the colors look to be instock on RGRS at least. retrogamerepairshop.com/products/funnyplaying-custom-game-boy-advance-motherboard-replacement

[@PLAYER007512]

with usb-C + hdmi port 10/10

[@makho]

that defeats the purpose of this board and would significantly increase the cost and complexity. You can already still add both of those things with existing mods.

[@jayrosgameboymodz5438]

All that, and still no USB C or HDMI out ports? Hmm...

[@HighPower64]

Yeah I doubt FunnyPlaying would want to ruin it by adding that junk.

[@jayrosgameboymodz5438]

@@HighPower64 You mean improve on the design by adding those critical features most modders put in.

[@smol7751]

On what planet are USB C and HDMI “critical features”? By adding USB C you eliminate the option to use rechargeable LADDA AA batteries which are undisputedly superior to a LiPo mod. HDMI mods built into a console are gimmicky and not even practical, let alone critical. With this board the way it is you do still have the option to add all of that crap and sell it to your poor unsuspecting customers or whoever you are doing commission work for. FunnyPlaying obviously knows what they are doing. You on the other hand.. not so much 🤡

[@jayrosgameboymodz5438]

@@smol7751 I was raised with Gameboys as a kid. AA batteries were abysmal at best. Still are. I revel in the fact that I never have to touch them ever again. I just add a magnetic USB charger, and I'm good. The Gameboy can charge just as easy as my phone or other devices. Magnetic USB cords are the future my guy. And LiPo mods just make everything better. I don't know about you, but I HATE changing batteries whenever the system dies... But that's just me. I'll gladly spend $12~$18 on a new Lipo cell every 5 to 7 years as opposed to swapping AA batteries "to charge" every day or two. That's just obnoxious.

[@smol7751]

@@jayrosgameboymodz5438 My guy, your experiences are not universal. I'm sure most of us who watch this channel grew up with Game Boys so I am not sure why you feel that is an important statement to make. I would prefer to not be tethered to a cord or need to carry around a power bank while the internal battery charges when I can just swap a pair of LADDAs in 15 seconds. Saying that Funnyplaying should require this on the board THEY designed is crazy. As I said before, if you don't like it the way it is then you still have the option to add all of that garbage to this board. The only obnoxious thing here is you, my guy, so I'm just going to disengage now since you are clearly set in your ways. Keep throwing those TP4056 boards in everything you make. I hope it doesn't blow up in your face, literally.