CVK40 Carb Overhaul Video #1

[@jonathanharcelldaraucheman7935]

I've been looking for so long a proper video to clean my carburetor until I found this one. Well done my friend! Thanks a lot for the help.

[@stevem9144]

Thanks for posting this series! It was fun to follow along with you as I overhauled the carb. Cheers! One deviation for me was having to drill out the plug to access the pilot jet screw. Now I want to do the kickstarter lol!

[@souperdoo]

Kickstarter!? That is the first step on the road to madness! How hard it is depends on what year you have. The parts are getting harder and harder to find. It's all here, as far as I know... www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-a-lkr-kickstarter-but-were-afraid-or-too-smart-to-ask Tom

[@vatrader01]

Excellent presentation, a "must see" for anyone that uses a Keihin CV carburetor. As of this posting, souperdoo has a series of four video's entailing both the dissembly and reassembly of the CV carburetor. Watch them all! Thank you for a well presented, much needed tutorial.

[@AngelosWorkbench]

Thanks so much Tom. The only other difference I noted is my idle mixture screw was only out 3/4 of a turn from the factory. Other than that and the plastic elbow differences our carbs are indentical. I found out about pressed in elbows googling Harley Davidson guys working on their CV carbs. A lot of them break off the plastic elbows and press in brass counterparts to be rid of the plastic. Thanks again.

[@fhp2b]

Very well done. Thank you for taking the time to make a well thought out and articulate how to!

[@souperdoo]

Xavier Gomez-Padilla , I'm glad you found it useful! Thanks, Tom

[@natgilson]

Awesome. Extremely helpful. A sincere thank you for taking the time to do this.

[@souperdoo]

Hi Nathan, I'm glad that you found it to be useful! Thanks for your kind comment. Regards, Tom

[@craik7]

wow best description of CV carb I've ever seen on youtube. Thank you so much for sharing, sir

[@souperdoo]

Glad ya liked it! Thanks! Tom

[@clll7]

You're a hero, thank you for this tutorial! Made cleaning my carburetor so much easier.

[@souperdoo]

I'm happy to hear that it was useful to you! Tom

[@dennypet]

Wow. So good. Just cleaned my KLR 250 carb, which is identical, except for a much simpler enricher valve. Thanks so much for doing this!

[@souperdoo]

+Denny Petropoulos Hi Denny, It's great to hear it helps with KLR250 carbs! Thanks, Tom

[@souperdoo]

Andrea Grazioli, I have no idea why but KZbin will not let me answer your question. I've tried several times. I hope you see this. The part that I think you are talking about is the vacuum fitting. On a Gen 2 the vacuum fitting has two vacuum ports. One operates the vacuum operated petcock and the other operates the Air Injection System. If you have a capped off port it simply means that your bike is not using the port, either because you don't have AIS, or it was removed, or the vacuum operated petcock has been replaced with a manual one (or both!). Any unused vacuum port needs to be capped to prevent a vacuum leak, which would cause rough running of the engine, especially at idle.

[@starguy9]

these are the kinds of videos that everyone should make

[@hunterhalo2]

You are awesome. This is quality work, thanks for the effect you put in to share this.

[@phats2276]

the second spring that you took out, the one that had a little bit of power to it. It was opposite of the way that you had it. So I'm stumped...

[@edrogers9530]

The carb screws are 4mm x 18mm and 4mm x 16mm 3mm Allen head. I cleaned my carb 2 months ago after 24 years 10 months of ownership. Never needed it till then. Sold the bike. Bought 2016 KLR and guess what. I need to clean the carb. Got a good price on the bike due to running lousy. I did buy new screws last carb and got 20 of each screw.

[@caseyadams5667]

Well done sir. I now have the confidence to continue on with my CVK40 from my '99 Nomad. I will keep these videos close for reference. Thanks again.

[@Drac.az.casa1]

On the my 1995 KLR 650 the idle screw had a cap on it that just needs to be drilled out, thanks for the video

[@kds47]

Yes how do you get the cap off?

[@souperdoo]

Drill a small hole through the cap, being careful not to punch through and hit the idle mix screw. Insert a small sheet metal screw. grab it with a pair of pliers, and twist the cap out.

[@treygibson]

These are excellent. Thank you Souper.

[@musik988989]

Might I add the carburettor was sitting for 10 years before I cleaned it out. Was running rough at half throttle.

[@AngelosWorkbench]

After some more googling I believe I have found the answer. There is a brass fitting that is pressed in and it is held there. I should have bought an older bike. Lol. Your videos are great BTW. Do you think the plastic elbows will survive a soak in carb cleaner. Thanks in advance.

[@souperdoo]

Hi there! I guess there are some new things on the later (I think it is'12 and up) carb that I'm not up on. I would not put the elbows in carb cleaner. In fact, I wouldn't put the carb in it, either. The stuff can be harsh. Now, Pinesol is pretty good at getting gunk out and it's easy on plastic bits, too. Go to Smart and Final and get the big jug of the stuff and try it for 24 hours. I have to go look at this new way of putting the elbows in. Sounds like a pain. I'd appreciate it if you could update me on what's new with the later carb! Tom

[@edelsite]

Thank you for the great tutorial. Do you by chance happen to have the link for the carburetor removal that you mentioned in the first video? I tried to do a search for that person‘s name and I could not find their profile

[@souperdoo]

edelsite, I believe that this is the current URL for the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYXHpaWZhcuVbs0 Tom

[@edelsite]

Thank you

[@Twoodstra]

Very good video. If you follow ALL of these directions you will be able to rebuild your carbs and they should work first time. I used the PineSol in combination with spray carb cleaner and my fired up once the fuel got to the carburetor. Adjusted the idle and I was on my way. Nice work on these videos.

[@souperdoo]

Todd Woodstra It really is a simple carb and easy to work on. I'm glad you found the videos useful. Tom

[@alielsaied1]

Hey Tom, Thanks for the video. I saw elsewhere in the comments someone had asked about their idle mixture screw being covered by a cap, and my carb is the same, and I also saw that you recommended drilling into the cap to remove it. I'm just a bit hesitant to drill into the cap to pry it off. My question is this- how important is it to get this idle mixture screw out? Is it detrimental to take it out and soak it individually, or will soaking the otherwise fully disassembled unit in pine-sol access the idle mixture screw from above? If its an absolutely vital step, I will drill, but I wanted to ask you first how important this step is. Thanks for the advice!

[@souperdoo]

Ali, I think it is important to remove the screw to properly clean the carb. There is also a small packing that you will not want to have soaking in Pin-Sol. If you have a rebuild kit you'll want to replace that packing anyway. The cover is no big deal. It is just a sheet metal plug and is very easy to drill through and remove. Tom

[@jimm340]

I just rebuilt my CVK40 which is on a 2001 Vulcan 1500 thanks for your help. It has the accelerator pump on it. The accelerator pump diaphragm was in bad shape so i replaced it. Other than that I just cleaned everything out as per the video. After putting carb and everything back together bike started up no problem but i noticed fuel coming out of the carburetor vent hose while it was running. My thought was the float valve wasn't set properly, so I removed the carburetor bowl and the fuel line coming out of the fuel pump, had someone blow in the fuel line while I lifted the float and measured from bottom where bowl gasket is to bottom of float when the needle wouldn't allow any more air through. 19 Cm. just as the specs called for. It does appear that the float is set properly. What is causing the gas to be coming out the vent tube?

[@souperdoo]

Jim, I don't know why I didn't see this. I rely on KZbin's notifications to know when question pops up and I either missed it or didn't get it. My apologies. You've probably got it sorted by now, but my first guess is that, even though the float is set to the right height, the inlet valve is leaking. What can be done with that is to take a Q-Tip and a bit of polishing compound and gently clean the valve seat. Then clean everything around the valve seat to make sure no compound remains. Install a new inlet needle and you should be good to go. Tom

[@andreagrazioli4752]

What does the golden screw on top of the carburetor ? my CVK has a cap on it and I don't understand what it sets (sorry for the stupid question and congratulations for the very useful video !)

[@JrareProductions]

3 years later.. im trying to do the same thing and mine does too. Do you remember what came about from it? Did it make a difference?

[@kevinherrick5798]

Great video, I've been able to accomplish everything except to remove the small washer and packing from the idle mixture screw and spring (not attached to spring). You tap the body at aboot 8:44 and they fall out in the video, but mine are refusing to move and I'm almost certain they did not fall out while I was not looking. I have sprayed air and, after still failing, I have sprayed some de-greaser on that area (I have replacements, I think, in the kit I bought). Any ideas as to how to get these stubborn pieces out?

[@souperdoo]

Hi Kevin, The best suggestion I can make is that you get a cheap dental pick that is straight, then dull the end (so it can't scratch anything) and put a small hook in it. Gently try to pull the washer and o-ring out. The cheap dental picks, such as the ones sold at Harbor Freight, are not made of good steel and aren't heat treated and tempered. That means they are easily bent into whatever configuration you need. You can round off the tip with a bit of fine sandpaper or a sharpening stone. If you don't have a Habor Freight nearby you can get them on Amazon. I also see them at the cheap tool booths at fairs, swap meets, etc. www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-1816-Harbor-Freight-Tools/dp/B018A1X1VA/ref=asc_df_B018A1X1VA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193227207088&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7477528418898377308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031025&hvtargid=pla-373160725397&psc=1 Tom

[@kevinherrick5798]

@@souperdoo great idea, I got them out, thanks.

[@JimSowers]

Redondo Ron's website no longer exists. Do you have a copy of the article that you could send to me? Thanks.

[@souperdoo]

Jim Sowers Hi Jim- Thanks for letting me know. That gadget website has been up for years; I wonder when it went down. I found another link for the stuff, and I've changed the video to have the new URL. www.vulcangadgets.com/files/keihin_carb.html Regards, Tom

[@AngelosWorkbench]

My 2013 elbows are not held on by a bracket. Do you know how they come off the body?

[@doublethinkplusone]

1:47 lists what tools are required

[@piersmet7502]

Thanks for the Tuto, that's great !

[@souperdoo]

Hi Pier, I am glad you found it to be useful! Thank you, Tom

[@gustavomorillo251]

excelente vídeo muy explicito 100%

[@souperdoo]

Muchas gracias! Me alegra que lo disfrutaras! Tom

[@sergioastese6790]

Hello my friend!! Great videos, congrats and many thanks. Could you help me in one short question? I have a 1994 Klr 650 and something is wrong in the carb. When I perform a cold start with absolutely closed choke , the engine starts but i need to open the throttle to keep the engine idling. There is a lot of gasoline flowing from the vent and drops to the floor. I think there is something wrong with the bowl. What do you think? Can I fix it without removing the carb? Thanks a lot in advance for your coopertation. Regards!

[@souperdoo]

Sergio - Sorry to be so slow to respond; I've been away for a while. Did you find the cause and fix it? I would expect that the float valve was stuck open.

[@juanjosesilvacruz74]

abra un catálogo de ese carburador pero en español

[@tanmilne]

For a quick second I thought that needle was going into his finger

[@phats2276]

my spring was behind the diaphragm, not on top like you just described.

[@souperdoo]

Matt, If it was behind the diaphragm then it was, at some point, assembled incorrectly. Don't put it back together that way. Tom

[@crispinleslie]

Fantastic tutorial. Thank you.

[@souperdoo]

Hi! I'm glad that it was useful to you! Thanks, Tom

[@nickz6508]

Where can I get that coasting enricher diaphram?? Can't find anything

[@souperdoo]

They are still available from places like Partzilla, but they are really expensive. Partzilla wants $64 plus tax and shipping for the OEM thing. The thing to do is look for CV40 parts, not CVK40. The CV40 was used on the Harley Davidson Sportster and the parts are usually a lot cheaper. There are some that I have found that do not fit, like the needle jet. Being for Harleys, there are also a lot of aftermarket makers out there, too. For example, there is a carb rebuild kit that costs only $15 and it includes stuff you'll never need, but it does include a coaster enrichment diaphragm. You'd be a guinea pig on this item, as I have never tried a Harley coasting diaphragm in the CVK but hey, it's only $15. It's worth a gamble and some of the stuff in the kit you can use. What could go wrong? This is the kit: www.amazon.com/Carbman-Carburetor-Rebuild-Repair-27421-99C/dp/B07VBCWSXS/ref=asc_df_B07VBCWSXS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385182458311&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11915790664310040334&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031025&hvtargid=pla-825337690253&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76842158525&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385182458311&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11915790664310040334&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031025&hvtargid=pla-825337690253 Let me know what you find out... Tom

[@nickz6508]

Thank you I will definitely give it a try!

[@VTRips1]

Awesome! Thanks for the information.

[@musik988989]

What would you say if I asked about my cvk34 not getting fuel into the engine after I've cleaned all the jets and carburetor in an ultra sonic cleaner the only thing I didn't dismantle was the idle mixture screw? The carb is incredibly clean looking.

[@souperdoo]

Christopher Finch You really should pull the idle mixture screw and make sure those passageways are cler. More importantly, though, are you getting fuel out of the petcock and into the bowl, and is the bowl filling to the right level? Will it start with the choke? How long was your 250 not running? Are you sure that there is no ignition problem? Tom

[@musik988989]

Yes the ignition coil is showing twice the resistance on the secondary circuit. The bike was idling then sounded like it leaned out and then stopped. This was at idle. I have readjusted the float height to 17 mm. The idle mixture screw has been previously adjusted is it possible that cleaning the jets out now requires me to adjust the idle mixture screw? I've ordered a new coil and it can't be helping my situation but I'm thinking the main problem is the carb.

[@souperdoo]

Christopher Finch Christohpher - If it was running, then leaned out and quit, it ran out of gas. I would suspect something in the petcock/fuel line/inlet valve area. Check that there is plenty of fuel in the carb bowl. Even though it was set, if you are having issues with the bike idling, I'd pull the idle mixture screw assembly and make sure there was no debris in that circuit. Tom

[@klrmoto]

Would there be an advantage of using the Vulcan carburetor with the KLR650?

[@souperdoo]

klrmoto, Some people feel that the throttle response from the pumper carb is much better and it is a worthwhile thing to do. I have a Vulcan pumper carb but have never tried it. Check out this thread and see if it helps you decide www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/16538-cvk40-pumper-install.html Tom

[@carmeladominguez915]

Seria interesante escuchar el video en español-

[@mikekatz7553]

I thought this video was very helpful as I am a novice. In disassembling my carb which was sitting with gas for 3 years the pin that moves with the floats is stuck in the carb. Any ideas on how to get it out. Would appreciate any help. Thanks

[@souperdoo]

Hi Mike, Are you talking about the gizmo I am holding in my right hand in this video at 1:00? kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHy7gmd7f9Osl5I That is the inlet valve needle. If it is stuck you're going to need to get a new one, as the tip is probably deformed, hard, and won't seal anymore. Since you will need a new one, you can get a bit aggressive with it and use carb cleaner, which would normally be a bad thing to do because that tip is rubber and carb cleaner will affect it. First, though, make sure that you have anything that is not metal off of the carburetor. Then get a can of spray carb cleaner and spray it into the fuel inlet hole (that is the hole that I pull the black fitting out of at 5:51 in the above video). It would also help if you can get a bit of carb cleaner down around the valve itself. Let it sit for a while, then gently pull up on the valve. If it doesn't come free, then shoot a little bit more in and wait a while longer. It should come out once the varnish that has it stuck dissolves. You're going to need to clean the valve seat so that the new valve will seat properly. You can do that by soaking a Q-Tip in carb cleaner and scrubbing the seat with a twisting motion. You might want to follow up with a bit of polishing compound on a Q-Tip, using the same motion. If you don't have polishing compound, plain old Colgate works pretty well; it's pretty gritty toothpaste! Once the valve seat is in good shape, proceed with the rest of the carb body cleaning, making sure to get rid of any grit/polishing compound. This article describes a pretty fair rebuild kit that includes a new needle valve. www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/sumo-carb-kit-helpswrestling-with-the-cvk40 If you are talking about the pivot pin that the float rotates on, it would be stuck in with varnish so give it a shot of carb cleaner or two, wait, then push it out. Tom

[@mikekatz7553]

thanks Tom. It is the inlet valve. I'm afraid that and the gasket on the float bowl are going to have to be replaced. Again thanks so much for the videos and the help. This is my first time working on the carb and it really is helpful.

[@souperdoo]

Hi Mike, You're welcome! That Sumo kit will have more than everything you need. I think there are some kits on e-bay, too, that have the inlet valve, the gasket, and new jets. If you can get a kit that has the pilot jet, that is a good thing as yours is likely completely blocked. You'll have to work on the emulsion tube, too, as it has wee holes in it. A fine strand of copper wire is a good thing to have on hand for those holes. Tom

[@myback5333]

Hey would you recommend changing the main jet and or pilot jets when I have a modded air box and high flow Muzzy Klx600 exhaust and I have 2 washers on my stock needle "20 cent mod" my bike seems like it's running lean now that I have so much extra air flow

[@myback5333]

so I tried just the 20 cent mod and I helped a tiny bit but not much. I have a 6sigma jet kit for a klr650 and it includes a 45 pilot jet, and 150 155 and 160 main jets. I was thinking of trying the 150 main and 45 pilot. If you or anyone else familiar with klr650 carb jettinf have any recommendations at all please let me know. Thanks

[@souperdoo]

It can never hurt to go up one jet size. A lean engine will run hot and can have issues with pre-detonation. Running lean can be harmful. A rich engine will run cooler and have much less tendency to pre-detonate under hard throttle. The worst that can happen with going one jet larger is that your fuel economy may suffer. With a freer-flowing exhaust, yes, you probably should go up a jet size. You might also consider using the KLX needle instead of doing the 22cent mod. The 22 cent mod really just cures the stock lean condition. The KLX will enrichen the mixture throughout the throttle range. You'll have slightly more power. Eagle Manufacturing and Schnitz Racing both sell the KLX needle and jets. Schnitz has a .pdf file that you can download before your order so that you can see what's involved and know what you should order. Tom

[@myback5333]

@@souperdoo thanks I put a 155 main and a 45 pilot in going.to see how it runs with that. Had a terrible night yesterday was doing my doohickey and everything went flawlessly Until the very end I go to tighten the doohickey adjuster bolt down to proper spec and it pretty much instantly snapped at around 15lbs torque so I figured it must have been about to break anyways But now I'm unable to ride Until I get my.new bolt

[@myback5333]

I made a massive mistake. A friend of mine told.me to buy a sigmasix jet kit because he had great results with his kawasaki street bike. Do i.ordered a jet kit from them not realizing that there was klx needle kits that are superior and this sigmasix outfit clearly has not even the slightest clue on how the KLR works.. it's sad I hope nobody else buys a lot from them it's a waste of money and the instructions tell you to destroy your slide.. it's a joke. My mistake for not doing My research ;( now.I need to find just the klx neeedle because I have the jets

[@souperdoo]

@@myback5333 I have heard of the sigmasix company. You're right, they don't seem to have a clue. The torque spec for the balancer locking bolt is 69 inch-pounds, or roughly 5 ft-pounds. If you are going to use a torque wrench it has to be an inch-pound torque wrench. A ft-pound torque wrench can't be anywhere near accurate at such a low reading.

[@187onelove]

I have a klx250 and was not all together when I got it so can you tell me if the top fitting is a vent and bottom for fuel line on left side of carb

[@souperdoo]

Yes, that's what they are. On some carbs they were identical and on some carbs the vent was restricted, so take care on reassembly. Tom

[@musik988989]

What are common issues with the cvk40? I've cleaned mine and put it all back together the klr250 ran rough for abit now can't start it?

[@souperdoo]

Christopher Finch Christopher - 10 years is a long time. Over that period of time gas can turn into varnish and the varnish can get pretty stubborn. Rubber parts can deteriorate. The 250 has a CVK34 that is very similar to the CVK40. A very simple carb; the most common issues are dirt and sediment in the jets and in the bowl. Upon reassembly a couple of common issues are misplacement of the needle jet and pinching or tearing of the diaphragm. I would suggest that the carburetor is still not really clean and there is a possibility that there is some damage to the rubber bits. A close examination of the diaphragm should be done to make sure that it is not cracked or torn, nor was it pinched when the cap was put on. You should also do a flow test on the petcock to make sure that the petcock is not gummed up or the filter on the tube blocked such that the carb isn't getting fuel. Take a look at the inlet needle valve that is activated by the floats. It has a rubber tip that may be hard and brittle after so much time. It could be stuck shut. Your rough running sounds like a fuel delivery issues, either because the petcock is not delivering fuel, the idle and main jets are clogged, or the inlet valve is not letting fuel in. Tom

[@gsmacka96]

what were the two elbows for? the white and black one.

[@souperdoo]

Black is the fuel inlet. White is the vent.

[@TiberiusStorm]

That video you recommended of the old lad removing the carb is way too fast for a beginner!

[@souperdoo]

+Shaine MacDonald Too funny, Shaine. Yes, he does it pretty quickly. I figure that sort of shows how easy it is to do, but he has the benefit of having done it a few times! Too bad there's not a slower, step-by-step version. Tom

[@TiberiusStorm]

+souperdoo Agreed! I want to clean my carb when the weather is warmer but I don't have faith in my limited mechanical ability. The Clymer shop books makes it look complicated as well. Your video is great by the way.

[@souperdoo]

+Shaine MacDonald Shaine, It's really not that hard as it is a fairly simple carb. The important thing is to have a clean work area, a place to organize the bits, and to take care with the diaphragm. A Sterilite shoe box is a good container for dunking the parts in PineSol, though my wife complains that the PineSol stinks up the house a bit. I think it smells good. Tom

[@chrishoesing5455]

I'm not finding the video referred to about carb removal... Is it wyman wynn? Anybody got a link?

[@souperdoo]

Click on the 'youtube watch' expand arrow at the right corner of the link. If that's not working for you, here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYXHpaWZhcuVbs0

[@glengerdes2447]

Are cvk36's about the same as a cvk40?

[@souperdoo]

They are very similar. Like the CVK40, there are variants. I have seen CVK36 with acceleration pumps, different throttle linkages, and different sorts of fuel inlets. Inside they are pretty much the same, though.

[@SaadouneZinji]

CVK stands for constant velocity keihin

[@Arwi5]

5:52 what´s the called this part please??? fuel inlet hose?

[@souperdoo]

That is the fuel inlet elbow. Kawasaki calls it a "FITTING,L-TYPE" and they have changed over the years. The early ones were a push-in type like in the video and were P/N 92005-1120 and cost $15. Those were through the model year 2007. For 2008 and 2009 they were a push-in type, P/N 92005-1283 and cost only $6. I don't know what the difference is and don't see why the $6 part would not work in an earlier carburetor. Of course, you pays your money and you takes your chances if you try that. In a pinch, you can use the upper elbow (the vent elbow) as an inlet elbow, but some of those were restricted. It's the sort of fix that will get you home if it breaks while on a ride. If you have a restricted one it might affect high-speed performance. Don't know, never tried it or heard directly from anyone who did. Unfortunately, after 2009 they changed to a non-replaceable inlet elbow with a replaceable filter. These have caused some problems for people when they break or get damaged. What year do you have? If it is after 2009 with the non-removeable/replaceble inlet and you need to fix it, I can provide you with some links on using a brass elbow that the Harley Davidson guys came up with. Tom

[@Arwi5]

@@souperdoo I have an ´84 klr 600 :D :D but your comment helps me too much.. THANKS FOR IT!! so look at my channel :D

[@souperdoo]

@@Arwi5 You're welcome! I did look at your channel. The KOPR Rally looks like fun! I must get to CZ one day... Tom

[@robertosansoni4421]

Hello, from the minute 2.45 of the video you see that gold-brass attack, brass, where we attach a pipe; On your carburettor this attack has two outputs while on my one has one, (my carburettor is mounted on a KLR 650). Does this tube start from the carburettor and then where is it attached?

[@souperdoo]

Hi Roberto, The brass part is a vacuum port. KLR650 before 2008 had one output. It connects to the gas valve (petcock) on the tank. The gas valve is enabled by the engine's vacuum. There is a vacuum hose that goes from the brass piece to a similar pipe on the back of the gas valve. KLR650 after 2008 had two outputs. The second was used for emissions equipment in some countries. La parte in ottone è un porto a vuoto. KLR650 prima del 2008 aveva un'uscita. Si collega alla valvola del gas (petcock) sul serbatoio. La valvola del gas è abilitata dal vuoto del motore. C'è un tubo di vuoto che va dal pezzo d'ottone ad un tubo simile sul retro della valvola a gas. KLR650 dopo il 2008 ha avuto due uscite. Il secondo è stato utilizzato per apparecchiature di emissione in alcuni paesi. Tom

[@robertosansoni4421]

Thanks Tom was all clear. Instead, I plugged the pipe out of the gas cock, the most inward, the carburetor, on the top to the right, where there is another entry similar to the main entrance of the gasoline. I'll put everything back in order and then I'll let you know. But does the original carburettor know if any modification is made to get more performance from the engine? I wanted to improve it at low speeds, I liked the bike more ready, just like the old off road where it was dangerous to speed up with low gears

[@souperdoo]

Roberto, There is not a lot that can be done to make more power without major work. You can make the KLR650 more responsive to the throttle by doing the '22 cent mod'. That involves placing two small washers under the head of the needle. That makes the fuel mixture a little bit richer with fuel. Then you make the hole in the slide a little bit larger. That makes the slide go up a little bit faster so that it is more responsive to the throttle. The washers we use are #4 washers. I think that the metric equivalent would be a 3mm washer. You might want to start with 1 washer and see if you need the second. The washers should be either brass or stainless steel so that they don't corrode. Here is the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXusm5ehoq6rppI You can, instead of the 22 cent mod, install a KLX needle. I don't know if that is available to you. You also need to install a smaller jet with that needle. Eagle Manufacturing and Schnitz Racing sell kits here in the US. The air box has a rubber snorkle in it, and that can be removed for better air flow. You can also drill four 25mm holes in the top of the air box for better air flow. This is know as the 'L-Mod' because people used to cut a big L-shaped hole in the air box. We found that four holes are sufficient and are easier to plug up if you wish to undo it. Usually the modification to the airbox is only done when doing the KLX needle modification. Doing these two together will give you a bit more power. Not a lot. Tom Non c'è molto da fare per rendere più potere senza grandi lavori. È possibile rendere il KLR650 più sensibile all'acceleratore facendo il '22 cent mod '. Ciò implica l'immissione di due piccole rondelle sotto la testa dell'ago. Questo rende la miscela di carburante un po 'più ricca di carburante. Poi si crea un po 'più grande il foro nella diapositiva. Ciò rende la diapositiva salire un po 'più velocemente in modo che sia più sensibile alla valvola a farfalla. Le rondelle che usiamo sono rondelle # 4. Penso che l'equivalente metrico sarebbe una rondella da 3 mm. Potresti iniziare con 1 rondella e vedere se hai bisogno del secondo. Le rondelle devono essere in ottone o acciaio inossidabile in modo da non corrodere. Ecco il video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXusm5ehoq6rppI È possibile, invece del modello da 22 centesimi, installare un ago KLX. Non so se questo è a vostra disposizione. È inoltre necessario installare un getto più piccolo con quell'ago. Eagle Manufacturing e Schnitz Racing vendono i kit qui negli Stati Uniti. La scatola d'aria è dotata di snorkel in gomma e può essere rimossa per un migliore flusso d'aria. È anche possibile eseguire quattro fori da 25 mm nella parte superiore della scatola d'aria per un migliore flusso d'aria. Questo è conosciuto come il 'L-Mod' perché le persone hanno usato tagliare un grande foro a forma di L nella scatola d'aria. Abbiamo scoperto che quattro fori sono sufficienti e sono più facili da collegare se si desidera annullare. Di solito la modifica della cassetta airbox avviene solo quando si effettua la modifica dell'ago KLX. Fare questi due insieme ti darà un po 'più potere. Non molto.

[@robertosansoni4421]

Ok, so I could put a washer under the gas valve needle or change the needle and put that of the KLX. On another video I saw that the jets also change, putting those of KLX that I do not know if they are bigger or smaller than those of the KLR. I could also pick up a Dynojet kit in the various stages where I saw that they also provide the long spring of the gas valve, they probably cut it to make it more compressed and have a better response. I was also thinking of putting a muffler open, in Italy the best are those of Arrow, Giannelli, LeoVince and handmade crafts made by Galassetti. Unfortunately this bike in Italy is uncommon, only in the 1980s there were many KLR 600 but then the 650cc did not really succeed. I think I have one of the latest products, year 2004, so there are not many aftermarket spare parts and elaborations. Over the next few days I will have some difficulty in following up on your answers, I will be out of Italy. Hello