Cylinder square regrind

Harig cylindrical grinder available from allindustrial.com/harig-025-10...
CMD lube = www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...

[@raincoast2396]

Fascinating Stan and by the look of your sparking grind dust evacuation, the system you built is doing a great job.

[@danapatelzick594]

I am impressed, you have a lot of skill. It isn't often that people have grinders and know how to use them and get very credible results. Thanks for the instructive video.

[@Molb0rg]

That self-checking part at the end is a very nice cherry on top of the whole video, which is very good by itself.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Stan, Looks like somebody is having a ton of fun with their Christmas present. Square came out great. Talk to you soon. Tom

[@ShadonHKW]

Hey bud, you need to highlight that B&S square with the direct reading graph, I thought that thing was really cool. Thanks for swinging by :)

[@cnc-ua]

Great trick with loading the stone for the spark out process. Thanks, Stan.

[@paulmace7910]

Your attention to detail is awesome. Thank you for sharing.

[@ericrichards5862]

Hi Stan, Fairly new subscriber here and just checking out some of your older videos now. This is one of the best presentations for grinding I have watched from anyone. Thanks for posting it. I learned several new things, one was to indicate the part itself for precise adjustment and I have never seen anyone use beeswax or rouge on a wheel before. By the way I noticed your using a Boyer Schultz grinder, I just purchased a Boyer Schultz model 3A, 6x18, from a friend of mine about 2 weeks ago but still need to clean it up before trying it out.

[@patw52pb1]

Thank you and all those involved in the content, efforts and production of this channel. Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to all. May the new year bring you, your families and friends much health, wealth, happiness, safety, security, appreciation, respect and peace.

[@howder1951]

.00005" there are too many zeroes to even call that an adjustment Stan! The results are outstanding, always a pleasure to see your level of precision , Merry Christmas and all the best Stan!

[@samrodian919]

Brilliant video Stan! So so interesting to watch and learn how it is done. I was quite surprised at the speed of the traverse across the cylinder, but hey, as the saying goes the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and as eating cylinder squares goes that's one tasty square! Greetings from over the pond.

[@johnbyrne8237]

Hi, great video. Bought a few items from Allindustrial - very impressed, the prices were excellent and the service fantastic. Thanks!

[@randomdude1786]

That's a handy tool to have and only one moving part to wear out. wich is easy to fix apparently, love your videos stan and merry Christmas and a happy new year

[@DK-vx1zc]

Very interesting Stan. Thanks for sharing! I learn a lot from your videos. Dan

[@danmetzger5583]

Nice vid Stan! Merry Christmas to you and yours.....

[@dizzolve]

lots of cool tips in this one - thanks Stan

[@artmckay6704]

Thank you for the work you put into making this video, much appreciated! :)

[@sharkrivermachine]

Very nicely done Stan, always interesting.

[@pauldiaz4273]

Love your videos stan!

[@wallyblackburn]

Those Lectric Centers are sweet! Set on eBay for $600 with missing motor, but those seem like the kind of thing you really need to look over in person before buying.

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

Thanks so much, I found this very interesting. I have a 1945 Brown & Sharpe surface grinder and I just can’t get a finish anywhere near as good as yours even before loading with wax. I think I had better start checking the spindle shaft. Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Nicly done Stan. Came out great.

[@Bookerb2004]

Merry Christmas Stan & Family

[@CompEdgeX2013]

Back at the daily grind I see. Looks great. :-)

[@ls2005019227]

Fantastic video! Truing that cylindrical square was a great test/use of the Harig. Now if we could just get you to design/build some sort of a "poor man's Squaremaster" so that the rest of us can indulge in this metrology fun. ;) Thanks again!

[@miguelcastaneda7236]

nice work...good to see old school hands on

[@Simon28298]

Interesting to see both side of the harig fixture. Look like the flexure side get a little variation when the other one get very good circularity

[@PhilsProjects]

always learning, great stuff Stan

[@patwicker1358]

I like the calibrated sharpie you used to adjust the round square to the square master :-)

[@billchiasson2019]

Great video!! Amazing work!

[@Redmech80]

Watched this video again and revisited my hack cylinder square. It’s a Wrist pin out of a Cat 3508. I knew there was about .002” deviation between the way it leaned from one extreme to the other. But I’d never measured it on its side (to check diameter)with my tenths indicator it had about 5-6 tenths difference depending where I checked it at. I really thought the diameter was more consistent. Now I’m starting to give it the evil eye and decide what to do with it. I’d just checked it in the past with a micrometer. I don’t think it’ll really cause any issues with my work I make but it’s still fun to check and know.

[@billdlv]

Nice job Stan.

[@lyntonr6188]

Nice work Stan 👍👍

[@tomvitagliano250]

Hi StanI am a new subscriber and would like to commend you for the thoroughness of your explanations and for going through your thought process out loud. It answers many questions. I look forward to you future videos. P.S. Love the beeswax and compound trick, cant wait to try it.KudosTom Vitagliano

[@ShadonHKW]

Thanks for the view and comment Tom, enjoy the channel.

[@1jtolvey]

GREAT VIDEO !!! MERRY CHRISTMAS ! ISN'T WHITE OR GREEN ROUGE EVEN FINER & BETTER WITH STEEL ?

[@11kenpo]

Great info Stan. I noticed your motorized center grinder attachment. I acquired one several years ago with my first grinder. Mine is missing the motor, pulleys, and centers. Would you be able to provide me with any information to find a comparable motor for mine. After the video of yours grinding the cylinder, I have one that needs a grind as well. The Atco moto-cylinder attachment needs to be brought back to life now. Thanks Stan for any info.👍

[@ronpeck3226]

I would have gambled a months pay it would have been out of square! LUCKY!! If it would have been "out" would you have remounted it and side ground it? Thanks for sharing lucky

[@KosmosHorology]

Hey Stan. If you need white lead, try a specialist artist's shop. I have been able to buy "flake white" in powder form, which is white lead oxide. You can mix this with oil to make a traditional lubricant. Probably they also sell it ready-mixed as oil paints.

[@robertkutz]

Stan nice work.

[@SolidRockMachineShopInc]

Nice Job Stan.

[@gabrielalvarez9570]

Very informative video.. What type of grinder is that? How much do they run ised in good condish?

[@mahocnc]

Some grooves around the bottom surface is usually put into place which allows for dirt escape..have any of you heard of the term bottle square?

[@dennyskerb4992]

If I mount my 7" craftsman grinder to my Chinese lathe, can I expect the same results?

[@JaakkoF]

For all intents and purposes the out-of-square-cylinder-square is square enough in two places, but if you can measure finely enough (I will not calculate error here), you will detect it is not square in those two places, it is actually barrel-ish shaped.

[@RobertPerrigoOkiechopper]

Very interesting machining & truing .

[@tcseacliff]

I always thi=ought you would need coolant of some variety to not scorch?

[@SteveSummers]

Thanks for the video Stan I always learn a lot for you. I one day plan to make a cylinder square and I would also like to make an adjustable one like Tom Lipton did. I don't own a surface grinder as you may know but I plan to get one soon. Could you recommend a brand / type ?

[@ShadonHKW]

Many good brands to choose from, Boyer Schultz, Reid, Brown & Sharp, Taft Peirce, as always it depends on condition.

[@longcaster]

If you keep getting errors will you grind it into a plumb bob? :-)

[@txkflier]

Nice work..

[@ruperthartop7202]

Great video. Thanks

[@somebodyelse6673]

Given what that tailstock is used for, I expected the height adjustment to be a differential screw for the fussy adjustments the process can reach.

[@eddiekulp1241]

Does that cylinder gauge have centers on the ends you didnt show how that harig fixture holds it

[@lifeteen2]

Great video. Check out Rob Renzetti's articulated camera mount - basically a giant NOGA arm for your camera, might help not having to fight the tripod.

[@ROBRENZ]

Nicely done Stan. I shouldn't rely on memory, that is hexagonal Boron Nitride not Tetrahedral. ATB, Robin

[@OuijaSTi]

I'm glad Stan did a video on this, I wanted to ask more questions about the mix, but I didn't want to bother you guys.

[@geoepi321975]

ROBRENZ how do you know that

[@ROBRENZ]

I checked on the ZYP website where I bought the material. I sent that stuff to Stan with the wrong info on it. I am correcting myself not Stan. :-)

[@ROBRENZ]

The mix is not critical. If you add too much it will get too pasty and not flow well.

[@OuijaSTi]

Well, I got my CMD lube and some Hexagonal Boron Nitride, about to mix it up. I got some small Pyrex beakers and stir rods to mix it up with, and I assume heating the grease will help me mix it and get it in the syringe more easily, but wish me luck.

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Nice grind :-)

[@WilliamTMusil]

Nice video. Hope to be able to do this myself in the future. My cylinders are all in boxes, with a desiccant pack here or there. Would you recommend storing them in a bag of desiccant instead, or should the boxes alone, with or without dessicant be ok?

[@ShadonHKW]

I use the U-Line desiccant packs, I store things in draw string cloth bags (if they dont have a box)

[@WilliamTMusil]

Roger, Same here. I was afraid that storing in a box might be a bad thing, lol. Thanks.

[@craigs5212]

Nice video Stan, would say that Harig works great. On the Harig what sort of adjustments do they provide to adjust the centers to be co-linear. You demonstrated the tail center Z adjustment, is there an adjustment for the Y direction? Craig

[@ShadonHKW]

No adjustment in that direction, thus you have to tram it in when setting up.

[@jimsvideos7201]

You can nudge the entire apparatus around on the chuck.

[@gbowne1]

Send that out and have it calibrated.. id love to see the #s that come back :) :)

[@patrickdarcy3863]

what if the gopro is out?

[@fredparkhouse]

outstanding . no more to be said rely

[@arnljotseem8794]

Hi Stan. Great demo of how to correct a cylinder square. One question: When you trammed the square (or rather your hole setup) to the table, could you also have adjusted the cylinder square parallel to the table? That way you didn't have to go back and forth between the grinder and the comparator so many times. On the video it was obvious that you at first was grinding a taper. Just a thought.. Interesting video, learning measuring techniques is always welcome.

[@ShadonHKW]

That was the first use of the little spin fixture, so I was expecting it to be off, I probably could have got it a little closer with some preliminary checking. Thanks for the view and comment.

[@stevetaylor2445]

I was going to ask about graphite for lube but looks like he boron nitride is essentially the same thing

[@watahyahknow]

think the best gauge to use on video would be one with a black face while pointer and a non reflective vover / no cover

[@barrygerbracht5077]

Nice job Stan. Finish looked great. Have you ever tried to get a mirror polish on the surface grinder? Is it possible?

[@ShadonHKW]

I myself like the brushed look of the coarse wheels, I suppose you could follow up with a rubberized cratex polishing wheel, but you may lose some accuracy.

[@barrygerbracht5077]

I wasn't thinking for accurate parts like a square, because I can see it may create more heat without actually doing much work. We spec #8 mirror for polished stainless when running teflon bearings on it for sliding surfaces. This is a full reflective mirror and I wondered if this would be possible as I've not seen it done.

[@elmeradams8781]

@@barrygerbracht5077 how do YOU accomplish the shine then? Sandpaper, buffer?

[@stanley6602]

Hi, Thanks for sharing with us how to precise ground parts into such an accuracy level. I am curious about which type of grinding wheel you use in this video?

[@ShadonHKW]

That a 60 J Radiac VOS wheel

[@stanley6602]

@@ShadonHKW Thank you very much. I like your video. Have a nice day.😊

[@bertrandlabelle3869]

woa that fixture is a bit pricey. great vid

[@daviddaddy]

Great video again! Very informative! I love your knowledge and overall craftsmanship! Wish i had you as a neighbor lol. What was the name of the machine in the beginning of the video you used to rotate the cylinder on? I didnt catch what you called it. Thanks buddy! Have a great Evening!

[@ShadonHKW]

That is a Harig Lectric Center used on the bench and on the surface grinder both :)

[@daviddaddy]

Shadon HKW I just barely read your Description and saw that haha. That. Is a great Addition to your Surface Grinder, I Love it! See I get so excited when you post a new Video, i forget to read the Descriptions! Haha. Thanks again Bro! Take care.

[@jamest.5001]

Im guessing this would be the same idea if small engines crank pin, or piston wrist pin was being made. I would like to build a engine from scratch, cast the parts from scraped engine parts. Like cast new pistons from old list from a 20 year old engine, and a engine crankcase from a broken set of aluminum rims. Cast iron parts from old brake rotors. Actually make the parts from wax and foam coated in a plaster slurry allow it to dry, recoat. And place it in a bucket of sand to brace the plaster fir the actual pour. Making the parts about 1-3% oversized to allow for shrinkage possibly dipping the foam in wax will make the extra volume. Im thinking small scooter engine parts at first. Then id like to build a modern day replica of a oil field engine or the first diesel engines. And steam engines. Id really like to build a modern tech version of a mix of them all , a 4" bore, wuth s 8-9" stroke, opposed twin or boxer engine, find old hydraulic cylinders use the rod from it to make crank pins. Use common bearing sizes. Say chevy v8 main bearings for the rods and main bearings. The thin web between rid pins made from a 1/2" steel plate about 3-4" wide. Install the pins with a interference fit. About .0003" then drill and tap a 1/4"hole in 4 places on the seam. About 3/8" deep. Then the end webs, ti connect to the mains to the rod journals. Either cast the parts or hand forge them from cold rolled steel being about 1"-2" thick with a large counter weight about 6"x2" going from about 1"-1.25" thick abd 3" wide to 2" thick and 6" wide snd 4-5" long , cast the crank case from aluminum, the structural areas being roughly 2"x3" and connect by ribs the same size. Then the sctual case being about 1/4-1/2" with gusseting. I want the engine to actually do daily work.cast cylinders from iron. That bolt to the crank case. Using a. Iron head with a rocker box that houses a camshaft with followers. That push open the valves a 1.8:1 possibly a 2:1 rocker ratio possibly using a motorcycle camshaft. With roller bearings . Use a aluminum sheet timing cover in. 5pieces. A crank case piece, a cylinder pair, and head pair. Possibly make it in one piece or 3 pieces a center and two cylinder pieces. That can be the same part. Possibly drive injector pumps from the cam using small engine injectors and pumps. Possibly two injectors per cylinder. Using 10-15hp engine parts. Depending on whats available, use a electronic governor possibly a mechanical limiter atleast. To limit the maximum rpm to about 2600-2800rpm. The governor keeping it at 1800 or 2000. Use a large truck flywheel. With anither heavy light truck flywheel bolted to it. The drive end possibly using a cast flywheel, with a fan blade cast in tge center, so a radiator can be mounted in front of it with a wide thick outside ring 8" wide veith belt grooves and serpentine belt grooves. Setting on a 2x4" tube frame the 18"-24" flywheel spinning a jack shaft with a 36" pulley and 8" pulley to allow multiple drive ratios. Also include a 2" output fir small pulley, to drive multiple equipment at once, i mostly want the large v belt drive, with the engine set at 700 rpm spinning 4, 150 amp alternators to charge a house battery for my off-grid home. Making power when there is no sun. Using waste oil as fuels. Vegetable oil, used engine oil. It should last forever. Chugging away at 600-700 rpm. If this seems to bog or lug the engine , it can run at any rpm, 1200 would be fine. The alternator can spin over 20k rpm. The pulley would Be over drive near 10:1- 12:1 the normal 3:1-4:1 and revving to 7k rpm plus, so 6k at 3:1 od, =18k rpm. So 1200 rpm with a 18" driving a 4" 9:1 od. Under 12k rpm at the alternator. If it revved to 8k it may have a problem. 64k + rpm the bearings may check out!! Sorry to ramble. Just telling why im interested! Good day, ☮️

[@orlandosilva1651]

very good!!!

[@jcs6347]

Thanks Stan! Will you square other's cylinder square, for a fee of course. I can't afford one of those Harigs, and don't trust myself to get hose kinds of results either, so just asking. Thanks, Joe

[@ShadonHKW]

If it fits in the little Harig, sure, the work threshold is 7" L x 6" D

[@jcs6347]

Ok great!

[@outsidescrewball]

enjoyed,

[@reinierwelgemoed8171]

Is that a cylindrical grinding kit that can be pur chased loose?

[@ShadonHKW]

Yes, look up a "Harig Lectric Spin"

[@grandpacocky7618]

What would be the result if axis of the part was at say 45 deg to work?

[@ShadonHKW]

I would result in an hourglass shaped part, only contacting in the center.

[@jimsvideos7201]

I wouldn't feel bad about being subordinate to that inanimate carbon rod.

[@thundercuck1779]

If you've clocked up everything, wouldn't you simply side swipe the bottom of the cylinder to get it perfectly square to the diameter grinding? How would you personally grind the bottom of the cylinder without using the cylindrical grinder

[@ShadonHKW]

It would involve a wheel change and a special dress, but yes it would be done on the same set up.

[@roguecnc788]

Did anyone catch what number etc the wheel is hes using

[@roguecnc788]

Got it at 33:05 46k wheel

[@bcbloc02]

Reckon it got dropped to get out of whack to begin with?

[@ShadonHKW]

Very possible, it lead a hard life.

[@tcseacliff]

what is that extra shiny spot on one side?

[@tcseacliff]

I asked this too soon! now it makes sense!!

[@lwilton]

Nice job Stan. I think you could have saved yourself a minute or two on that first center measurement and adjustment. If you can sweep the top on the machine and get zero difference, then if you have room to move the indicator, sweep the bottom of the cylinder. If the cylinder tapers the bottom sweep should show it just like the comparator stand. If both sweeps show no difference you should have a true cylinder rather than a cone.

[@ShadonHKW]

Your right, this tool is fresh out of the box and needed an initial set up, but I probably could have got much closer right out of the gate.

[@sheriffroylambifs894]

I love That Nat's -Ass-Accuracy

[@multiHappyHacker]

Did you lap those centers before you began?

[@ShadonHKW]

Yes I did, did I not mention it in the vid?

[@multiHappyHacker]

I think you did mention it, but the lapping wasn't on video. Really not complaining, great stuff and thanks for responding.

[@miguelangelsimonfernandez5498]

nice beeswax trick

[@tcseacliff]

I was waiting for you to dress the wheel after you went to the comparator table?

[@ShadonHKW]

I dress often, dont always show.

[@dtiydr]

23:38 Just realized that was either a .00005" or a .00025 gauge (cant really see) and the needle didnt even move.. how the earth can you get that precision?!

[@ShadonHKW]

Good tight tools to work with and pay attention to everything (everything matters)

[@dtiydr]

Have no doubt in my mind about that, really good work!

[@Daniel-vq9zb]

I would have expected all the wear to be on the bottom

[@ShadonHKW]

At least it wore evenly :)

[@pierresgarage2687]

That square was more pleaged with a bad grind in the first place, most problems with grinds are the lows and highs along the surface due to improper grinding techniques.... ;)

[@duobob]

In the beginning of the video, it looked like it had been reground since new, poorly.

[@MyShopNotes]

I need to check my cylinder square but I don't have a squaremaster.

[@shannonsears3496]

The cylinder square checks the squaremaster, not the other way around. if the face runs true on centers and the cylinder has no runout and is the same Dia. all the way it is square. All that is needed to check a cylinder square is a surface plate, indicator and bench centers.

[@ronmcdavid7084]

Good work Stan, Suburban Tool beware.

[@mtabernig]

So, What all these prove???

[@shannonsears3496]

Now that he has a cylinder square he could prove that something else is square or not. Not a difficult concept.

[@whitehoose]

When did "haters" come into the picture in such numbers? recently there seem to be two new groups appearing. The Idolater - I'm seeing and hearing more and more "empty" praise (Why would/wouldn't anybody .... I clicked "like" before watching ... blah! blah!) And seeing the resultant hysteria caused by what seem to me perfectly innocent questions. All this while the numbers of the usual idiots seem to be treading water. I don't for a second condone stupid name calling and general bad behaviour - However unskilled I am as a machinist (very!) I still feel I have the right to an opinion, and I watch because I'm curious. At what point did any and everyone with the temerity to question automatically become a "hater"? - it seems a very quick promotion, without the usual progression from fool, idiot to the higher echelons of troll and now hater!!. Seems these days there's only one shade of grey and by implication only one remedy. A sign of the times? The creators with over a couple of k's worth of subscriptions will almost always win anyway that's the nature of the beast.

[@ShadonHKW]

I have been accused of "cheating" and being a "fake" when they cant see the needle move on the gauge. This has happened more than once on the channel and I classify that as a "hater" as a result, I am compelled to prove that my gage is in fact touching before making any sweeps.The negative comments have ceased since I started doing this, so I guess its working.

[@whitehoose]

I'd just class them as idiots, If they can't or won't appreciate you are working to tolerances way beyond blond in many of your vids (the very reason I watch them) AND fighting camera angles to show them. I've never doubted your integrity or work. "Hater" is such an uncompromising term, it's final and leaves no room for negotiation. 'guess it's becoming the way of the world right now - back to the old wild west - I just don't like it.

[@motorbreath22]

You use some very fat grit on your wheels

[@mtabernig]

do you need a kleenex?

[@gangleweed]

Why do you need to regrind the bottom when it is already dead square? I think you are nit picking just to make a video for the sake of it to impress the wannabe machinists. At the same time why do you run the cylinder at speed with a dial indicator on it.....that does not achieve anything, you should rotate the cylinder slowly to find the runout and test both ends, at the same time test the diam of the cylinder with a micrometer as this will determine the actual accuracy and squareness relative to the bottom face. Cylindrical squares are inherently accurate even when just turned parallel and faced on a lathe and not ground.........provided of course they are not turned taper.

[@user-hg8mf6ct7z]

Спосибо учусь умеют люди делать вещи