Old Rusty, Part 2 Rebuilding the engine - getting the block ready

This is Part 2 of the engine rebuild , where I am getting the block ready,
Citroein U23

[@bassmith448bassist5]

Detail oriented craftsmanship. No annoying Muzak. Liked and subbed. As a retired 40 year veteran mechanic, I appreciate your attention to the little things. Loved the glass polishing on the cylinder head deck. I used to use this method at my shop in Haiti.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments,

[@thegeneral8019]

Online tutorial at its very best. I’ve been a car restorer and engine builder for over 30 years and I still learn something new from all of your videos. Your methodical approach and your ability to explain the processes is incredible. You should have been a university lecturer !

[@D3Sshooter]

Wow, thanks!.... Thanks for the comments

[@iamakactus2588]

You are the Bob Ross of the mechanical world..

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@dongerscoper2537]

How did i not find this channel earlier? Amazing content

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments Donger,

[@brady5829]

@cmartinez1089 Yes, I had watched a few engine/restoration videos and this eventually came up. Incredibly enjoyable video, immediate subscription. Thank you, O Google, for showing me

[@DNomer]

A lot of care is going into that old block. I doubt many engine rebuilders would go to those lengths. Cleaning looks good. In America we call that 'meter' that you used to measure flatness a 'dial indicator'. I appreciate the difficulty you face in sourcing some of those ancient parts. You have done well.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, Meter , something to remember for next video... txs

[@TheDaf95xf]

Morning Steve from a very wet GUERNSEY as I’m working there today with a mobile MRI scanner scanning dogs 😆 It’s always fantastic watching you and how you explain exactly what your doing in simple turns 👍🏻 Well done. So glad your keeping Rustys onl motor 😀 cheers Stevie

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks Stevie, It very wet here as well... tell me a bit more on that MRI scanner and dogs... checking for HD.... like to learn from that

[@TheDaf95xf]

D3Sshooter Hi Steve. Yes it’s a very interesting job. It started about 15 years ago when I was working as a driver scanning humans. Then one day a vet asked if he could scan a dog on one of our mobiles. So veterinary mobile MRI & C/T scanning was born. I’ve now been work as a driver with Burgess Diagnostics for 13 years now and still enjoy every day. Only three more years left then we’ll spend half our time in our home in Spain and travelling round Europe especially Belgium and Holland lol 😆 Hope that helps you a little. Stevie 😎🇬🇧

[@otori9136]

Great stuff. You are calm, accurate and factual. And, which is very important for foreigners like me, you speak very clearly in pretty English. As they say - good job. :)

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, I try...

[@davekauffman8727]

Anyone who questions your methods isn't as knowledgeable as they think they are, pay them no mind. I think I could find more than a few men who would say that your quest for precision isn't completely warranted, especially here in the USA. You are 100% on-the-money, I feel very confident in your work.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments Dave, I try to work things in most cost effective way.. i do not have a large machine park, so lot of what I do is old school.

[@ronjohnson2073]

I enjoy your Old Rusty project the best.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thank you for the comments

[@PaulHigginbothamSr]

To think you are going through this labor of love for an ancient 11hp truck engine. French Peugeot that you recondition better than it left the factory many many years ago with its water jackets half filled with sand and years of rust removed. It simply won't know what to do with everything back to factory specs. Good work mon.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@timothynewkirk2654]

Here in the USA we call that soft material in the connecting rods, Babbitt Bearings. I've had it installed in an old 1930 Model A Ford Engine during a rebuild. That was quite a few years ago so the price was a lot less than you quoted. Your new rods are the correct choice! ...Newk from Kentucky

[@Chris-yy7qc]

Also there are specialized shops in the usa with the tools and knowledge to cast new babbitt bearings onto your old rods...

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, Babbitt aha... The price I got is local in Belgium. I assume that the skill is no longer there to do that work. Besides that very few people ask for it

[@Chris-yy7qc]

@@D3Sshooter Regular bearings are better anyways - if you have the choice. So youve made the right decision. Btw the first start of an engine with babbitt/lead bearings is really tricky. The bearings are cast undersized and break free during the first start up. The engine is "stuck" and the starter motor is too weak to turn it, so you have to pull start the car with another car multiple times until the engine/bearings broke free. Hagerty garage did a cool video on that. I think it was a ford model a. Greetings from germany to belgium!

[@geeper2142]

Yes the alloy babbitt ( mostly tin and lead) it is still used in heavy industry like power plant turbines.

[@sheph7ceo799]

the Glass "trick" for leveling the block , WOW WOW , I could have used that many times over the last few years. Thank you!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, it has always worked for me

[@notajp]

I use the same technique for small engine cylinder heads, but I do it on my granite surface plate. Definitely works well!

[@Baskentli]

In my 15 years of rebuilding engines i've never thought i'd learn so much stuff. What i basicly do is just buy new parts and combine them up to specs. Very good channel.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@johnchristiansen1623]

Very nice. Great to see that I’m not the only one to prep the top of the engine block that way. I have been using that technic on aluminium engines and have never failed. Many people rush to the machinshop to get it done. Thumbs up for the good work.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, indeed one does not always need very expensive tools. Often ingenuity lays in simplicity

[@SeanGriffinNY]

extraordinary care and clarity of explanation; I'm also humbled by the deft and kind multi-language skills; so much to learn here. Thank you.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments Sean, I try and also learn from the comments

[@joshuah5542]

Im loving this. Really motivates me to do some of the same. Really like that there is no music either.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments Joshua, I used to place music on my video's. No more as it does not bring added value

[@danieldooling6756]

This series of videos is fascinating.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@xx1590]

From my observations you have been proceeding with a very caring and professional manner, you will always find critiques no matter what you do. Often those critics mean well so you need to treat them with that in mind.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, I do not mind critiques as they often make me think and bring added value...

[@yogilours722]

Beautiful engine block, beautiful color, very very clean congratulations. You see, you will be able to reassemble this U-23 well. I’m already looking forward to the next episode. Greeting!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, and yes I don't regret having gone this way versus electrical

[@bmassive28]

These videos are so relaxing to watch. Keep it up sir.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments Peter, I will do my best

[@axeman6560]

You have a very good way of sharing your knowledge. Nice.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@VR6Bosnjo]

I like it old school, not fancy cnc machines just tools and your hands!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments , that is indeed what I try

[@VR6Bosnjo]

D3Sshooter keep up the good work

[@joelpalmer]

The correct term is oil galley, not gallery. Unless your oil passages are hung with miniature paintings. Another excellent and very informative video. I think those old rods are called "Babbited" for the soft metal bearings that are cast in place.

[@deangaryjames]

In UK we say gallery also, makes no odds

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, always nice to learn the correct words. That is another one for my vocabulary

[@joelpalmer]

@@deangaryjames if you look up the parts used to seal these passage ways, you will see they are called " galley plugs"

[@joelpalmer]

@@deangaryjames facebook.com/marketplace/profile/608541634/?ref=permalink

[@paul41to45]

Great idea using plate glass as a sanding block. i had never seen that before.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@goranbrodin1443]

Very good video ! Realy instructive. And I like there is no music disturbing when you are talking!

[@D3Sshooter]

Glad you liked it!

[@xx1590]

Neat thick with the DW40 on the block surface, I have seen a lot of rebuilds and no one knew about this little trick which could really detect a serious issue's.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@ShaunCymruDS8]

Very interesting Steve, this is making a very enjoyable series. Thanks for taking the time to film and share.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments Shaun as always

[@Tafs315]

This is what we in America call a Babbitt Bearing or bearing metal, which is any of several alloys used for the bearing surface in a plain bearing. The original Babbitt alloy was invented in 1839 by Isaac Babbitt in Taunton, Massachusetts, United States. Used in a lot of machinery then you add a small layer of oil over time.

[@WireWeHere]

Old Fords of course used Babbitt and that's an interesting break in procedure but Babbitt is still used daily in sawmills and planer mills for setting planer and chipper knives to correct position. The last place I was at never let the pot cool down.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, Now this is great info and history... Much appreciated

[@D3Sshooter]

@@WireWeHere Thanks for the comments, i can image that... I have seen people pouring those babbitt bearings, but what really struck me was the way they rectify it ,with just some blue marking liquid . Showing the touch area's and how they manual scrape the bearing into shape until the touch area is all blue. Amazing, was about to give that a try but its really specialist work

[@WireWeHere]

@@D3Sshooter Hagerty on KZbin built a Model A showing the Babbitt bearing pour and break in. They're poured at zero clearance and the starter doesn't have enough torque to spin the crank until the break in is complete. We did some old tractors the same way in the 60's. Just connect 2 PTO's to force some bearing clearance into them.

[@WireWeHere]

@@D3Sshooter Ford used a mix of Tin, Antimony and Copper but I've never found what the ratio was and many believe it was never revealed. We had it written on the wall of our machine shed, 4 different mixes depending on usage. I don't know who came up with them but things seemed to last. Always interesting stuff.

[@royworks28]

I have to tell you, I really like your videos. You are so multi faceted. Your exactly how I want to be. You’ve inspired me to start my own KZbin channel Royworks. Thanks again for great content.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments Roy, I try to share what I know. I will check you channel ...and I might lear things there

[@scattkiwiman]

good to see all this. The glass and sandpaper make me think about my childhood when we were sanding the cylinderheads of our mopeds :-)

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, that is when I did also for the first time on a Honda 50cc SS

[@D3Sshooter]

Typo, that is also what I did many moons ago on my first Honda 50CC SS in 1976

[@scattkiwiman]

@@D3Sshooter a 50ss really ? that is the first bike I did ever drive because my older brother had one :-)

[@4speed3pedals]

Small point and not a critique. In the States, we call a bearing with a smaller bore undersized because the crankshaft journal is undersized from factory specifications after being ground. Good video and excellent work. I kind of laugh because babbit poured bearings predate shell bearings and now it can a chore to find someone with the capability to recondition what once was common through the automotive industry.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments and critique is always welcome Paul. That is why I share things, to learn from it. Indeed undersize is the same here... although it does not always make sense. Once the crankshaft is re-grinded it becomes smaller in diameter, and hence the bearing must compensate , become thicker.. so one would expect that we say oversized as it is bigger ... But we all say undersized .... love the logic on this... its a bit like transmit and receive... all depending on which side we stand.

[@MikeL-vu7jo]

Nice work , The truck will run and look great , Thanks .

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@richie9777]

You really do explain things clearly.Well done

[@D3Sshooter]

TXS for the comments Richard, I try

[@snowwalker5621]

i rely enjoy your videos ...great work and fun to watch...thank you...greetings from Crna Gora small country in Balkans

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, my pleasure.. I should look up the place , have never been there

[@WireWeHere]

Used to use Glycol paint inside older blocks that showed areas that were prone to rusting. I remember reading years later that it was recommended to improve oil drain back. Just a thought.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, need to read up on that ..... great point

[@scattkiwiman]

@@D3Sshooter there is a guy on youtube called Jafromobile who has done whole videos about this paint and oildrain, very interesting

[@notajp]

Generally, Glyptal is used for painting inside engine blocks, and transmission and differential housings. It seals and helps prevent debris build-up inside the castings.

[@WireWeHere]

@@notajp Thanks, good to hear from you. I see my Bionic Woman must go back on spelling probation yet again I dare you, touch the spelling when I hit send again and I'll PWM your digits all night. She's been a comedic constant companion ever since I set my foul language filter back to Sawmill. Peace eventually.

[@WireWeHere]

@@scattkiwiman Thanks, I'll pass by on my way to Abom79.

[@johnapel2856]

Quite interesting. Part 1 was my first view of any of your videos, and I'm hooked! Looking forward to the next one. Thanks.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, I try to bring some value. But please comment by all means on how things can be done better

[@WireWeHere]

One of the very few I look forward to seeing pop up. Always interesting.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@bassmith448bassist5]

One problem with lapping those liners in is that by using the old liners as your lapping mandrel, you are lapping any flaws in the liners into your block.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments,

[@tunichtgut5285]

Readhead Zylinderkopftechnik call this technicque derisively the Polish planishing machine. However the way you are doing it I am sure that the results will be more than sufficient and I like the idea of not taking of a substantial amount of material if it can be avoided. Great job!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks, did not know that " Polish Planishing machine" that's funny

[@nickhill3362]

Hi I was concerned about the shot blasting in my previous comment but looking at the preventive measures you have taken it all looks good to me enjoyed vid thanks 👍

[@D3Sshooter]

Thans for the comments Nick, it is those people that pointed it out in part 1 , that made me stress the point here as I did not in part 1

[@pixlpotions]

Wow, found your channel 2 days ago and I've already caught up on all the old rusty videos! Looks like a lot of fun to work on cars with you and I expect to stay around for some time. Keep up the great content!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comment, nice to hear that you enjoy it. Much more is to come

[@jabberjab]

Learning so much from your videos, thank you.

[@sonyhk3824]

So enjoyable video. Thanks for sharing n looking forward

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@kougerat5388]

I had to prepare my Yamaha XS1100 engine for satin black paint & media blasting imo is the only way to do it thoroughly. It removes all the corrosion from the pitted areas and gets into all the cooling fins as well, no amount of wire brushing will achieve that nor will it give you the perfect key for the paint to adhere to which is especially important on a bike engine because of stone chips and general road grit from the front tyre.I also think it's the best way for a rough cast engine block to get into all the pits on an uneven surface. When I did my bike engine I had to remove some of the side covers because they obscured some parts of the crankcases so i made replacement covers out of 4mm alluminium sheet using the original covers as a template and cut them out using a jigsaw and finished them off with a powerfile then it was simply drilling all the holes to match. the gasket surfaces were cleaned thoroughly using the exact same window scraper as in this video. As it was all alluminium I had to be very careful not to dig or score the surface so I slightly dulled the edge of the blade. Any remaining stubborn gasket material I used a variety of things to get it off from fine wire brass mini rotary wheels which you have to use in reverse from time to time because it bends over after a short time, also I used a mini blow torch which helped soften the hadrened gasket. I finished the surface with some solvol autosol metal polish, then a smear of silicone and then the alluminium blanking plate was screwed on using sacraficial screws. Yes it took a couple of days to get the whole engine prepped because there were quite a few plates to make but it worked like a charm, not a single piece of grit got into the engine. After the engine was rebuilt it just needed a fairly light clean up with solvent/panel wipe and a final coat of VHT satin black engine enamel. 2 years on I have had no oil leaks at all and no paint chips. I was aiming for a concourse finish that would last well which is why I went to all that trouble but it was well worth the extra effort. There are always different methods to be used but to say media blasting is not the right way I would have to disagree. This is a fantastic channel, Kudos to this guy (I don't know his name) he replys to so many comments i'm surprised he finds the time. I like the way he thinks things through as well 👍👍

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@garychandler4296]

Back before my 1st Harley, I was a weekend Triumph mechanic ider\builder. I used the glass and paper trick to stop the accursed covers from leaking, only we used a circular and figure 8 pattern for uniformity and sometimes even a weight on top to eliminate uneven hand pressures. We were sometimes asked things like, "How come it isn't leaking?" or, "Did you put any oil in it?" Love this show, and who makes those cargo pants? Haven't seen those on this side of the pond!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, sneakers is the brand

[@hussssshie]

This engine is turning out amazing! Can't wait to hear her purrpurrpurrpurrpurr

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, me too

[@453421abcdefg12345]

I think peoples objection to sandblasting the block stems from them overhearing a bloke in the pub whose second cousin had problems with his sandblasted engine, yet those same people see nothing wrong with grinding in their valves with grinding paste, an obviously highly abrasive compound, what they fail to appreciate is that if an engine builder were to take as much time and effort in cleaning a block down as you have, (then correct way), he would go broke in 6 months, the engine, when it was originally made was sandblasted, then flushed after all the machining was done, so there is nothing wrong with sandblasting, provided it is cleaned correctly after, a thing with very few people do, they just throw it all back together.The engine is looking very good so far, nice new liners you have there! Chris B.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments EF, that is most-likely the case, great write up... always nice to see the same people coming back with good comments.

[@joewilder]

Ingenious methods.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, I guess I like simplicity

[@geofham8332]

Hi Steve, many thanks ,enjoyed the video and information.

[@D3Sshooter]

My pleasure and txs for the comments

[@KonstantinMaltsev57]

Hello from Russia, an interesting way to align a plane without a machine.Good luck in your business)) old school

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@alans5187]

Another great video. The best way to measure con rod weight is "moment" weighing. The small end is balanced on a fixed point but allowed to rotate freely. The big end rests against the weighing machine. The con rod should be horizontal when weighing. Difficult to explain in words. This method is also used in the aircraft industry weighting turbine and fan blades, fixtures are used to hold the blades at the correct radius to replicate the turbine / fan disc diameters. Pistons should also be match weighed. Are you going to dynamically have the crankshaft balanced ? The flywheel should also be balanced with and without the crankshaft. Balancing the clutch and front pulley can also improve the engine performance / build quality Keep up the great work, love your videos Thanks

[@notajp]

This is what is generally called for in high revving performance engines. Would be overkill on a low rpm, low use engine such as this truck motor.

[@alans5187]

@@notajp I agree

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, great write-up ... see I learned something again

[@richardredcastle7911]

Enjoying this series a lot, thank you.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@estpst]

old school packaging for those nice connecting rods

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, and yes indeed//

[@gus6rocks]

When you balance con rods as well as all being the same overall weight, it is most important that they are the same weight on the tops and bottoms. Very important. You cant just remove weight from the bottom of the rods to balance them.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, indeed. missed that point . Good that you stated it

[@karlhrdylicka]

@@D3Sshooter You could consider weighing the new pistons with pins an clips, quite often they do vary and it would be a good to check and make sure they are all the same . with the older lower RPM long stroke engines of this age a few grams variation won't be noticeable when in use but it's better to get it right if possible .

[@gus6rocks]

@@Darryl603 Well if you are going to balance them at all, do it properly or just dont touch them.

[@ferrumlynx1914]

Really interesting project. As with all Flemish your English is excellent!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@randypopperwell2183]

A blade out of an old plane works really well for cleaning surfaces

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@mohabatkhanmalak1161]

Great treat for me this Saturday noon to watch. Like your techniques for flattening those machined surfaces and using pane glass for the deck. I have a two Q's: 1) the wet cyl bottom seal with the block. How good are they? Have there been any issues with this part of the engine in the Citroen (U23, Traction, DS9) forums? And what solutions, new technology sealing materials were used to prevent long term leaks. 2) The end plugs on the horizontal oil galleries, can they be removed and cleaned with a long reach brush, then pressure washed with dissolvent like kerosene, kerosene/diesel mix etc. You could be okay the way you cleaned it but old oil gunk and gum can attract those metal particals and stick in the ways.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, Wel it seems to have positive and negative points. The very old seal tend to start to leak over time, but more moderen replacement types are a lot better. As with any old car , it needs to be taken care off. Corrosion of the block at the edges seems to be the main cause. As for point 2, yes you are correct, there are a few death end oilchannels with plug.

[@emjay1952]

The centre main bearing wasn't allow much water through when you were blowing the oil galleries out. Partial blockage?

[@D3Sshooter]

yes indeed I had that cleaned afterwards with a copper brush

[@anair70]

My thoughts exactly!

[@D0DG3R]

Nice videos, I randomly thought your part 1 of the rebuild and while I don't have any mechicanical or engineering background I am fansinated by vehicles and repairing, I do the basic stuff when it comes to vehicle maintenence but this stuff you're doing is peaking my interests, subscribed so I can continue learning and seeing how well the engine is coming along.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, and I hope that you will enjoy them

[@sheledmikymo]

the new con rods are much better, they being of set will stop any piston slap, great video

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, they should be as they are asymmetric . But we will see on the first run

[@gilg5334]

@@D3Sshooter How did you find new con rods with the exact same measures? are they designed for a different engine? or made for the original engine? Thanks for presenting the processes with details. Your video are an impressive masterclass engineering series.

[@pauljanssen2624]

I hate to say it but all the surfaces on any engine block are precision machine if you're hot tank a block it removes the rust

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments Paul, yes you are right. but the level of precision do not need to be the same on all pieces, that is what I mean.

[@JEROMEGORDINI]

One french engine for a french viewer. Continue like that 👍

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, and yes that engine revolutionary at the time by Andre Citroen

[@JEROMEGORDINI]

@@D3Sshooter Yes I know the old engines, but I have seen on your license plate that you are Belgian ? I have a Citroën too, a mehari

[@kallehjelmstrom7303]

Good work! It's always just as fun to watch your videos

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks, and I try to keep it informative enough and not to boring

[@saadabdi272]

Excellent work, i think all of that valves has 25m about comprestion stroke?

[@MrBillycan1]

Great work, should end up a precision rebuild!!))

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, I try to get done in the best possible way

[@retiredppd]

You can spray the block down with wd40, then put a plastic trash bad over the engine and close it up . That will stop it from getting surface rust while your waiting on parts.

[@D3Sshooter]

indeed that is another great approach. Thanks for the comments

[@scheusselmensch5713]

I blast engine blocks as well, then high pressure wash with lots of soap. However, I rod out the oil galleries with gun cleaning brass brushes and wash them repeatedly. I am amazed at the number of panels you made, was it cheaper than just ordering them from Citroens are Us?

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, as for the panels, they just do not exist. Parts are as good as 0....so I had to create them

[@traichorachev8527]

Man,you explain very good,i cant wait next episod! Great job!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments , I will try

[@smoothoperator7306]

Yes we enjoyed lot , thanks.

[@D3Sshooter]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@shwnmrk5102]

what about rebalancing the crankshaft when you got new pistons and con rods? thats essential

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comment, indeed that is why the cranckshaft and flywheel are the machine shop

[@Kalkaekie]

Very interesting video !!

[@D3Sshooter]

Glad you think so!

[@waynekwoods2799]

Reminds me of my old 72 Peugeot 504 !

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, could have been the same engine ?

Thanks for that. Just what I need.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@bigunone]

Most of us are second job after holding the light, was scrapping gaskets off Look up Kieth Fenner "Turn Wright Machine ' he has several videos on pouring babbet bearing.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, That is good info.. will have a look

[@alfredtetzlaff7764]

Perfect Work!!!! Its now 1:50AM Time... Im going to Bed:-) Greetings from Germany:

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, good night, same here

[@narvul]

The whole sanding of the cylinder block isn't necessary in my opinion, because the gasket will adjust minor differences. When you use so much WD40 it's cheaper to buy in bulk and get rid of the cans.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thank you for the comments, indeed... but I like clean surfaces

[@next0845]

True old school engineering!!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@mattnoyes7729]

Awesome stuff Steve, and thankfully not as many "experts" in the comments this time around :-)

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks Matt

[@geobrower3069]

Thanks for the replies Steve, I found your site about a month ago. As my work has slowed down considerably until April I can now work on projects including binge watching of videos! I have to learn to stop projects and video watching long before mid-night though, I seem to think you have a late night problem too according to several videos? The log structure I mentioned earlier is at Arowhon Pines in Algonquin Park.

[@D3Sshooter]

Hi , yes indeed I do not have enough hours in a day or days in week etc... but I do manage with 4 hours sleep. Algonquin Park, that is a coincidence several moons ago I went canoeing in the park... for weeks in a row... I hated the chipmunks trying to get my food at night. But what a great place, loved to sleep overnight on those small islands or patches of land in the middle of the lake.. Also did a winter wilderness trip once ... I loved the place. In fact we might visit this summer again.. You are a lucky man... out there

[@D3Sshooter]

Mose resort ?

[@boathead22000]

built a lot of engines in my day and that could have been me making the video......good job shooter

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, that is nice to read.. still working engines ?

[@isaachunt5799]

great video your english is real good. cheers from sweden

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, I try still missing many words

[@blackbirdcycles]

Great video

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@blackbirdcycles]

Hi Shooter what do you think about using a brass wire brush on a drill to clean of old gasket?

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, works as well.. Done that before... all depends on the brush material ( real brass or steel with brass plated ) . The principle is with wheels, if the material of the wheel is softer then the workpiece not much can go wrong

[@WireWeHere]

Water Displacement, 40th shot at it. Offered without the slightest dribble of ill intent.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@stevehill4615]

I've always wondered what was wrong with WD39

[@jooch_exe]

Dr. Pol doing engine work

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, hahaha the ugly version of Dr Pol

[@geobrower3069]

On Pt 2 of the engine strip I posted this comment as well. The oil sludge could be from laziness or cheapness of the past owner to change the oil, keeping in mind too, the economy back in the 50's and 60's possibly even the 70's. I also didn't see any indication of an external oil filter which would explain the sludge.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, this engine does not have an oil filter on the outside. It has a maze inside the carter ( 2 layers) prior to the Oil Pump. So yes that must be reason

[@Gopherdave1]

Awesome! What a pro!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, just old school and passion....not really a pro lol

[@nawowas8818]

cant't wait to see you riding that beaty!

[@D3Sshooter]

me too, but that is going to be some time.... TXS for the comments

[@jameshehir3334]

Greetings from Dublin. Another masterclass on rebuilding an old engine. Most interesting. Is there a detergent that you would recommend for cleaning the inside channels? I have suspended all work on the Fergie engine until I have seen your rebuild completed. I am learning so much from your presentation.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments James, I use the standard parts washing liquids that degreases. Dublin, love that place... Even considering to retire in Ireland.

[@Crazywaffle5150]

This is not a master class.

[@m.b.smoshitoa8325]

HI FLEMISH, HOW MUCH DEFLECTION IS ALLOWED ON AN ENGINE BLOCK. I MEAN WHEN USING DIAL GAUGE MOSHITOA (SOUTH AFRICA)

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, that depends from block to block and hard to say in general terms

[@QuickJoe]

8:35 is it not the point to have it as flat as possible, so If you turn it 90 degrees you only have glass and sandpaper, the way you are doing it now you have different thichness because of the tape"? Sorry my english is not very well.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comment, indeed as flat as possible. Started with the edges taped. The second run fully dual side paper tape covering the full surface

[@QuickJoe]

@@D3Sshooter ah oké, thats good you did that

[@TheTybi]

The Bob Ross of cars

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@joaus]

Por la chucha el gallo que sabe!! = OMG this man knows a lot!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments JJ

[@MrDriver221]

Hi, I admire your work I am very impressed and I have a question whether the engine in a 1000cc motorcycle can be damaged if the exhaust is empty [modified]

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comment, all fuelmaps can adjusted. Key is to get the correct afr

[@MrDriver221]

@@D3Sshooter Thank You

[@D3Sshooter]

My pleasure

[@garychandler4296]

Well yes, of course. Once it's past the pleasant note and becomes loudly abrasive, the neighbors may fix it with baseball bats!

[@davidgerrard8661]

Did you number all the followers to match the pushrods too?

[@williamcollins9110]

have you found the window seals ? thank you for the video, great work ,!!!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, No I did not so far... really hard to find. but next week there is a fair for old timers. I will visit it and who knows ?

[@HeiligerBimBam9]

Bob Ross of engines !!

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments Alexander, lol Bob Ross

[@mim.ojx9268]

Good job.boos . thank you.

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@billjenkins2174]

Any video this week? What happened to Project Orange; did you sell it?

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments yep its going to be out in a few minutes, just completed the work. Project orange is 99 precent done... I might make a road test soon with it

[@markrobinson7275]

Hi Steve, what did you coat the inside of the water jacket?

[@D3Sshooter]

I used some cast iron paint for it