DABCHICK got SCAMMED

[@klortikterra4423]

even disassembled dabchick is still a threat.

[@shadydaemon4178]

Literally like the Monty Python Black Knight.

[@shortgiraffe1564]

We shall find a way to achieve revenge

[@firstletterofthealphabet7308]

@@shadydaemon4178you mean monty python? edit: the original reply I replied to said "python monty" in that order and had no capitalization

[@dalek9554]

give me back my profile picture

[@PissBoys]

Dabchick's pronouns are Find/Out.

[@Retrogamepak]

At least the seller was nice enough to send you his homework folder.

[@lewis9s]

💀

[@LordDragox412]

Barnaby is into dab chicks, not anime chicks tho, so I don't think he found it too useful.

[@Mr_unfunny419]

What a kinda fellow

[@raulvanhoorde1215]

Haha! That's funny because.... We all know what's in the homework folder...HAHAHAHW!!! Super relatable!!! Did you come up with that joke all on your own??! It's hilarious! Never heard it before😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@josephspoto4398]

HA LOL

[@nachoartsi1936]

You know it's bad when our overlord dabchick scolds you when he's just a head

[@nerdgeekdc]

Ebay has pretty good buyer protection, you don't have to get approval from the seller for a refund if the item arrived in a condition it was not advertised as in.

[@57thorns]

Unfortunately that return window might still come into play, but it is worth trying.

[@ObsessiveGeek]

@@57thornsNope, that’s purely to do with the seller not the terms and conditions of eBay itself. Since the seller created an item for sale and didn’t correctly describe its condition, eBay can charge this seller the cost of the refund.

[@bapgames1]

dankpods got scammed by that said thing.

[@volundrfrey896]

Lol, no they don't.

[@altega]

they absolutely do not have any buyer protection at all, let alone anything good. they dont even have a customer support team anymore. just the faq page. if you get scammed your only option is filing a chargeback with your bank. speaking from experience.

[@aidenwallin3523]

Are the metal bits going to stay? I think it'd be a shame if his eyes were no longer metal, because we'd lose the michevious metallic glint in his eyes.

[@Zixea_a]

Probably can use metallic paint

[@leoSebDelg35]

Metallic paint is just not the same the quality and apearance of brass is just way better

[@aidenwallin3523]

I would also think his muscle memory is used to the weight, so a lighter head might throw off the performances for a while without the metal.

[@jimbobjones9330]

Easy enough to add metal to 3D prints with a little planning. Just leave holes where you want the parts, and then you can glue them in place afterward.

[@fallenmango8420]

He can probably just re use the metal parts from the original.

[@BobbyDukeArts]

I don't have any advice on 3D printing, but I do know that I'm super pumped to see the rest of this series! Ily🥵

[@thedistinguished5255]

you could metal print him or cast him? or will aluminum be too heavy edit: i think i was gonna comment this, idk why it replied

[@deannaparr9448]

BOBBY

[@zacjudhud]

cool

[@Jorujia_jojo]

BOBBY! YOU'RE HERE! (*≧∇≦)ﾉ LOVE YOU BOBBY!!!

[@dontworryaboutitdotcom]

The fact that he was ballsy enough to scam you even with his home address on the package… yiiiikes

[@Breezely22]

That's a big oversight on his part. Some ppl be crazy and you do not want to find yourself on the receiving end of their insanity

[@TonySpike]

Or ......... it wasnt a scam, and they genuinly thought nothing was wrong with it I mean i myself have zero experience with 3d printers ...i wouldnt know what to look for if you asked me to sell one

[@fatlizard_]

​@@TonySpike weak excuse tbh

[@pemo2676]

@@fatlizard_ not necessarily, it could've been sat around for ages and became all fucked up in that time, and then they decided to sell it without checking it first

[@fatlizard_]

@@pemo2676 then... it was their responsibility to check BEFORE they sold it and said it was fine? That still is a weak excuse tbh

[@DeadFishTheKing]

You could consider taking silicone moulds of the printed parts, then casting with much more durable epoxy or urethane resins? Would be significantly more expensive though

[@roseroserose588]

I have a feeling this is where he'll end up going - it just makes sense for getting the detail, durability and most importantly repeatability for replacing broken parts

[@zeusthefox1585]

I'm not an expert..but perhaps replacing fragile thin parts with metal might be an idea

[@OTOss8]

But likely cheaper in the long run, especially if you factor in the time required to clean up the resin prints and bring them to a usable state.

[@nickmason6656]

This would allow for reuse of the molds if parts break as well or to make multiples of the same part (so we can have an army of dabchicks)

[@VagabondTE]

I love silicone molding but I don't think it would be useful in this situation. He won't be mass-producing these. It's better if he just sticks with printing and gets the hang of it. There are stronger resins and better technique to make parts stronger.

[@GCollab]

It looks like the UV times per layer may be incorrect. As a resin Print person hope Dabchick gets well soon and if need help let me know

[@raxephon69]

My thoughts exactly. He may need to bump up the exposure time by 1 or 2 seconds per layer. Also, a very common thing for us 3d printing folk at the start, we tend to under-support the models and miss the "islands" All things that will iron themselves out with time. Hell, I've been 3d printing for years now & I'm still subject to the occasional print fail

[@FraustByte]

That and a higher definition resin may work

[@e_g4239]

​@@raxephon69been printing with resin since creality released their ld-002r went through 3 screens and a buttload of fep film. I'm at the point where I get consistent prints after I dial in a new batch of resin. Personally I would use the light supports with a high density. Not a guarantee for success but really helps to keep complete failures to a minimum.

[@laureni9974]

@@raxephon69 I agree as well. All of those prints look a bit soft and under-cured to me. I've had resins that went from miserable failures to consistently perfect prints just by bumping the exposure time up by one second per layer, so that might well be a major part of what's gone wrong here. A few more supports might help as well-usually when a print of mine fails that way it's because the split area wasn't adequately supported, which would only be made worse if the resin is actually under-cured. (I don't even want to admit to how many failed prints I had before I learned that over-supporting and having to do a little extra cleanup is always, always better than underestimating how much support a print needs.)

[@TherealLumpendoodle]

Agree, check and adjust the exposure times, and the lighter supports. I’m reasonably new to resin printing, but adjusting the fep tightness, exposure times and supports made a huge difference between success and a sludge filled tank.

[@MakersMuse]

I love the resolution from resin prints but yeah, HATE the mess and fuss and that's without being sold a lemon! You can coat the parts in UV stable paint and that will help a lot, OR give an industrial process like MJF or SLS nylon a go. It's not great for painting but similar resolution (powder based so a bit rough) and super durable and lightweight. Here for the new dab !

[@ThatOnnline]

Yooo makersmuse I love your videos

[@Threertx]

Banana cat 3d puppet

[@Sitrane]

Hey mate! As someone who has been 3D printing since 2015 and does professional pre-support work on the side for a number of years, if you would like some assistance getting Dabchick pre-supported and squared away, I would be more than happy to assist. Anything so that my daughter can watch the "funny bird videos on KZbin" again. Thanks for all the laughs!

[@MasteroftheBooneiverse]

Increase the UV exposure time per layer and use a higher quantity of lighter supports. A higher number of lighter supports will more evenly distrubute the force being applied to each layer as its pulled up from the FEP film (which is supposed to be a consumable component and needs to be replaced regularly) and will removing the supports cleaner when the print is done.

[@ApostateOfMind42]

I second this.

[@jimbobjones9330]

I was cringing at those supports he was using... was he trying to hold a building together?

[@techno1561]

​@@jimbobjones9330Dabchick's just putting down some roots

[@user-dd9dh9kw5c]

Yeah almost everything he did on that model was wrong.

[@dovion]

uh oh, the autistic 3d printer perfectionists are coming out of the wood works now lmao

[@fl4gfl0ck92]

My phone is shattered and glitches out but I wouldn't miss this for anything.

[@AJBiskit]

…an ad cued just at “and send us a refund you little c-“ which honestly is the best timing KZbin has had in years 😂

[@Lusoscout]

Very unfortunate about getting a dirty printer, glad you got it working though! And as for the fails, I’ve used that exact resin and also find that it tends to split easily, even after it’s been cured and outside it’ll randomly split. So I’d recommend a different resin as one variable for getting successful prints

[@thewiseturtle]

Yeah, my thought was that the resin itself was problematic. (Or at least partly the problem.) Every material works well for some purposes and crappy for other purposes. It just might be that this resin doesn't work well for what you folks are doing with it, or with certain kinds of printers, or certain climates, or whatever.

[@Ysalomet]

Dude... The music @5:34 - 6:09 was truly mesmerizing... I could listen to that all day

[@oOPawsOo]

How dare one scam our Dabchick Overlord !

[@creators10]

As a faffing around borderline resin 3D printer owner, thank you for sharing your honest trials and tribulations. Resin 3D remains my preferred choice of 3D printer for small, high detail objects, just the faffing to deal with. Keep up your amazing and inspiring work and avian hugs and cusses to the indomitable DABCHICK.

[@Idiot_Sandwich-]

how DARE they scam our avian overlord!

[@ThePinkpopdiva]

Lil bit of a shot in the dark here. But I have an elegoo printer I bought and never used... If you still need one mate. Unopened bottle of resin and all 😅

[@slatebrick6016]

I like the fact you're close to a Chick of Theseus situation. Ever slowly Dabchick is gaining a clone army in the real world all the while his body lives on in cyberspace. What truly is the essence of Dabchick...

[@angelique7618]

"Then send us a refund, you little cant." Malicious giggling is heard.

[@Blueboyrave]

In my experience with the Resin printing, opaque resins require quite a bit more exposure time, I've had the exact same problem you did, and only managed to fix them by increasing the exposure time. It may, however, shrink a bit more than expected

[@Astrobiologica]

your print head might be to too tight against the screen when you did your leveling causing elephant foot (and over-sticking) to the membrane, make sure your calibration card can move around under the build plate, when you are doing your calibration. another thing you need to do is put a small oil heater near your machine while its printing, resin printers fail if the work room is cold. A brewing belt wrapped around the resin bath works also. I just got the elegoo Saturn 2 for my birthday and the rook chess piece printed perfect first test print. anyways best of luck, I actually made a dab chick inspired puppet myself called chomper, who pretty much looks like a checken leg dragon from golden axe, the yellow ones that can you can ride in the game. anyway, best of luck.

[@KLune92]

I second the heater, for any 3d printer or resin printing. I use a thermal case around my 3d printer and it's made a world of difference with adhision and print quality. I currently have an AnyCubic Mego Pro, and I'm looking at their resin printers as I've heard good things about them.

[@jedder]

Well, if nothing else, that successful print makes for a good eldritch cyber-horror if you leave Dab's face on the supports.

[@shitpost-o-matic7469]

True

[@HopefullyAnAircraft]

Make it a little wood wall mount, give it a paint job and jewel eyes. Would be a perfect phylactery

[@DarkusZarvix]

You could also use the 3D printed pieces as masters to make silicone molds for a material maybe more flexible/tolerant of use. One thing to note, if using 3D resin prints as masters, DO NOT use platinum-based silicone. the UV resin inhibits the platinum based silicone from curing, giving you a sticky mess on your master and an unusable mold. You can use tin-based silicone instead OR coat the pieces of Dabchick's masters in an epoxy (2 layers preferable) to prevent the inhibition with a platinum silicone, which is cheaper than tin-based silicone. Coating with epoxy does remove some detail though... I got a resin 3D printer a couple weeks ago to make my own molds for things and I just went through this discovery and mess in the last week. The 3D printer having binding issues could be based on the leveling of the device first. I struggled with this too for a couple prints. With a used printer, I don't know if something regarding levelling was damaged or the resin you're using isn't the best or the UV lights are inconsistent across the print... Could be a lot of things. If you want to stick with a 3D printer, I'd look at getting a new one. I have been using the Elegoo Mars 2 Max and have been loving it. Occasionally, a print fails or layers don't bind... I think it is just the nature of the beast for some prints to fail at times.

[@Rilagooma]

You can get around the silicone curing issuing by fully curing your resin parts and sealing them with something like a lacquer. It creates a nonreactive barrier between the resin and the silicone.

[@VagabondTE]

I don't think learning silicone molding is a good idea in this case. There are stronger resins and he just needs to get the hang of it. Getting into molding would triple the amount of work, what he needs to learn, and pay for. I think he's better off just sticking with Printing and getting the hang of it.

[@tkava7906]

If he decided to go for silicone molds, he could skip the whole printing process entirely and use the original parts. I bet that would beat the reproduced detail level of a 3D print.

[@mjvidal143]

I can’t wait for Dabchick’s resurrection, I hope Karma come for that seller. And I believe in your ability to bring back Dabchick. Sending applause and hugs to you Barnaby 😂💕

[@dumbgummediaofficial]

I have been a fan for years, I'm glad your still doing well my friend, you and dabchick stay blessed

[@bluanch]

I’m so sorry you got scammed, it sucks when this happens, D: but we’re glad you’re still making your effort to fix him!

[@Spikethealligator]

Possible new material to make dabchicks body "sugru" so sugru is like a play dough mixture at first but if you mold it and leave it for 24 hours its will harden into a strong rubbery mixture that won't break apart as easily

[@secretly8072]

2:48 is the timestamp for dabchicks rant if anyone wants to replay it a few times 😭

[@USTragen]

I would highly recommend looking into the crafsman - steady crafting who has very recently done a small scale mass production using injection molding, could be an alternate avenue for you to look into (with the molds being 3d printable) but also may give more materials that adhere more to dabchicks rough and ready lifestyle. He has details many different materials and processes that could help you in bringing that bird back to life

[@wellsmartineau185]

Just a thought... Use the prints as masters for casting in epoxy. You can then paint the casting with acrylic paints and that should hold up for a while. (You can also people who paint miniatures for more info on the latter half)

[@VertexNull]

I have this exact printer! You will definitely need to have a very long cure time and maybe 4-6 layers (maybe overkill) for the print to stick to the build plate, you will also want to set a longer cure time per layer so that each layer will be less likely to stick to the resin reservoir. You can also look up cure times for your specific brand and color of resin and see if it is documented somewhere. In all, it's a bit of trial and error. Good luck with Dabchick's recovery!

[@FAB1150]

Oh man, I have a love/hate relationship with resin as it indeed is a pain to deal with! A few tips to lower the chances of failure: -shake the resin well! You probably already know this but the stuff inside of it separates rather quickly! -hot resin flows better, 30-35C is good -the FEP film is a consumable! (Easy to damage too) -try not to touch the film with the yellow spatula (or anything at all), it's quite a soft material and it will scratch, microscratches mean more adhesion and more adhesion means more failures! Tissue paper scratches it too. -in that refard, to remove a failed print stuck to the film don't go at it with the spatula, but use the "tank clean" button: it cures a whole layer of resin so that you can pick it up easily from the corners (where you can gently lift the layer up with the spatula causing less scratches). It also cures around small bits and pieces of fallen off cured resin so it's not in the resin and it doesn't puncture the film -while replacing the film (do it when it's scratched or when it's hazy), install a frequency analyzer app and lightly tap the film, tightening it up until it's at the "correct frequency" (like tuning a drum). The right pitch is different vased on tge size of the vat, you can find it in the forums. It's more of an art than a science, so experiment a bit. Tension of the FEP film really causes trouble when it's not right, as it needs to flex enough to release the prints preventing suction but not too loose or it will stay attached and won't lay flat again afterwards. -some resins are a lot harder to print than others! It looks like yours is pretty "soft" when cured, so it will be slightly trickier to get right. -tinker eith the curing times, speeds, and other settings. I'm not an expert at all on this, but playing around sometimes makes it worse, sometimes better. I then stick to what made it better :)

[@baplotnik]

dude he can't get away with that, then everyone thinks it's ok

[@Nickyboyyer]

Everybody chilling until' dabchick becomes angry

[@Nyst2]

As someone who has only recently gotten into resin printing myself, I feel for you. With every print I'm learning more and getting better, but even a month in I'm still averaging more failed prints than successful ones.

[@Ozification]

Print Dabchick in resin wax and metal cast him! That would be so METAL!

[@lexiheart6558]

I hope his recovery goes well!! I'm not one to get attached to characters easily but you've done a phenomenal job of doing just that.

[@tposingelite]

An ad perfectly censored the word the dabchick said the C word

[@Trent2Luigi]

This was my first video of yours, and caught up on the Dabchick lore, I'm subbed and belled, and very excited to see the progress of this project. This charming chap needs to be reborn in the in the modern age! We have the technology to rebuild him. He'll be better, faster, stronger, and somehow even more entitled, (the little prick), and ready for another round of adventures!

[@p0rtalw0lf]

Just a thought, maybe use the resin print as a tool to create a cast metal version or use silicone and resin outside of a 3d printer to cast using a pressure pot or vacuum chamber?

[@matildacarne2405]

I’m starting to think that we need a GIANT DABCHICK in addition to the replacement bird

[@Rilagooma]

Different resins may need the settings in your slicer tweaked so I would check either on the bottle or where you bought it from to make sure you're getting that right. Undercured resin may not be bonding as well to each layer and sometimes a slightly longer exposure time is worth it even if it adds another hour or two onto the print time. For the sticking to the film layer I had a friend who recommended PTFE based lubricant which may help you as it won't react weirdly with the resin. Also always wear gloves when handling the resin and uncured parts! It's very toxic! I would know, I ended up with a harsh chemical rash on my hands after handling prints too many times in a row without gloves (I had run out). For that same reason, the finished parts should be washed in an alcohol bath and once the alcohol is no longer effectively cleaning the parts, let it evaporate and dispose of the residue properly. As far as durability goes, most UV resin is pretty hard but brittle. There are some resins that supposedly work like more flexible plastics but I haven't had much luck with them. Also you didn't show a curing chamber in the video but I assume you know about them. If not, there are commercially available cleaning and curing stations but where budgets are involved you can make one out of a cardboard box, some tinfoil, glue, a cheap UV light, and a rotating display for like baubles, also cheap. The printer itself doesn't fully cure the parts it just cures them enough to harden them on each layer. The full cure comes afterwards by being exposed to UV light for a good day or so. The cheapest way to cure parts is to leave them somewhere in the sun and just make sure to rotate them every now and then. The thicker the part the longer the cure time as the UV needs to penetrate further in to cure everything. I don't know what slicer program you're using but Chitubox is free and has a lot of functionality like good automatic support generation, part hollowing, a simple repair tool, all while being user friendly.

[@StrawberryBunnyBoba]

I CANNOT BELIEVE THERE WAS FUCKING H E N T A I IN THAT SHIT ARE YOU KIDDING ME

[@caitlinabbott7895]

(Something something Tord Eddsworld)

[@bradfordarmstrong6974]

Yeah you for sure need to look at the exposure times for your prints and resin. The gaps, stuck pancake head, and separation can all be caused by supports not being cured hard enough to hold the print, or the print layers not fully curing before the bed moves and peeling the layers from each other.

[@lucasrezende7214]

I'll really miss Dabchick's brass beak and eyes, they added a lot of texture and character to him, I hope you figure out a way to make him not 100% out of resin or do a banger job painting him up! :D

[@UncleJessy]

Let me know if I can help you with your resin printing journey. A few tips 1. Z Mud is horrible resin to work with/try and print with. 2. Siraya Tech Fast / Elegoo ABS like / Anycubic ABS like resin are the way to go 3. Model splitting is usually due to exposure settings needing to be refined. Crazy excited to see more progress on your rebuild!

[@cillianomaichain4420]

What a jerk! That is so annoying but I have to say great to see you bring it back to life. As for you material concerns for a final parts you could look at SLS printing using Nylon-PA12 (rigid) or TPU (flexible). Could give you durability your looking for. I love your projects and would be really neat to help you if want a hand with some SLS Printed parts. Excited to see Dabchick back and kicking.

[@Sourcious]

Heya! I had Alot of the same issues when I started resin printing also with a similar machine. A few quick tips to try would be making sure your tanks film is as clean and scratch free as possible, use a little 3in1 PTFE Lubricant on the film (make sure it's all dried up and you wipe any excess up), rough up your build plate with some sand paper, and/or use a different resin, I've had alot of success since switching to Siraya Tech Fast resin. Also make sure your print is calibrated for your resin. Oh, and use Lychee for your slicer, it works like a dream!

[@Moldestmolderton]

Dab chick was a monster since his birth he won't hesitate to dox people

[@Shark54477]

To be honest, I just really gotta appreciate how Barnaby is just trying to only get the current design of da chick because it’s what we found in the first place and we all enjoy that design in our everyday lives

[@tin117man9]

Increase you lift time slightly. The cracking is probably the resin not flowing back fully. It really depends on the viscosity of the particular resin.

[@arson3236]

Yk when you talked about 3d printing dabchick my first reaction was "well just build him like before and do this again when it's broken". But the fact that you took dabchick, a beloved project of yours, to better yourself and to experience new things? Absolutely beautiful, i hope dabchick gets better lol

[@128ajb_02_Music]

A possibility you could do is casting the resin parts in silicone, making wax molds, casting said wax parts in plaster, and making the dab chick out of aluminum. Or, skip the silicone/plaster steps and cast the resin parts in sand. Pour the metal directly into the sand mold and cast them that way. It’s less perfect that way, but it’s faster, and cheaper. The sand can be reused again and again. The plaster molds are one time use, and are broken apart to retrieve the metal part.

[@FugaceFugite]

5:40 reminded me of the reveal of the great condor in the mysterious cities of gold haha

[@elisethiel5769]

a note for print failures, temperature can play a large part in it as well. most Resin likes to be around 23-25 degrees c, if it is in a cooler room you will have a significant number of fails. We got one and didnt realise this either until our printer which is in our garage which gets too cold half of the year.

[@kredonystus7768]

"We have a whole army of basement dwelling incels" I live in a back shed thank you.

[@pkaboo7832]

Oh wow.....that was THE most informative regarding laser printing.... I couldn't understand it up until your description!

[@gwentan6776]

Those supports look fine. You may want to really play with your exposure times for your bottom layers if they're coming off completely , or the normal layer exposure time if you're getting some splitting. The splitting can also be caused by your supports pulling on the print because of the layout of the supports and tensions from that. Its a whole messy thing! Then you have to worry about your weather when printing!

[@The_Bean_Head_Men]

Mate, your sense of humour is spot on! Love the other side of the benefit of the doubt board...really funny, can't wait to see dabchick again.

[@DDryTaste]

This is really cool and all, but I can't stop thinking it would've been much easier to just make a silicone mold and cast dabchick from deep pour epoxy. Essentially the same material as the printer uses but much stronger because it's not cured in layers. Less expensive, faster results.

[@Hazelhana102]

Dude a genius

[@brycep7093]

You can make silicone molds of the successful prints after you clean them up, and then you can make infinite dabchicks (theoretically)

[@Wildbat24]

I will be 100% watching the next episodes, I have watched every single episode that you have ever made, I'm sorry that you got scammed.

[@njh113]

Dabchick is one of my favorite characters. I'm happy to see he's being reinvigorated and given new life. For alternate materials, once you have successful prints of Dabchick, you can make silicone molds of the body pieces, and then you can cast those pieces in a more appropriate material. I'm sorry you were scammed. It's a wonder you've gotten then prints you have so far after all the cleaning your done. VIVA DABCHICK!!

[@jayconstantine5928]

That was a highly articulate, and much needed outburst on behalf of the chicken puppet! There have been times we all could have done with his support on Ebay! Sincerely, good luck with the refund!

[@jake360flip]

Calibrate the resin times with the cones of calibration. As long as the printer isn't faulty this will get you consistent results every time. If the printer is faulty, i'd just return it and go for an elegoo brand or anycubic. Resin printing is great and the post processing part isn't as much of a faff as people make out once the process is dialled in. Also You can deffo get a more durable resin that will be suitable for your needs for dabchick. Take a look at some of the siraya tech resins.

[@dynoburger]

Way to keep in good spirits Barnaby. Keep ya head up, we’re all very much looking forward to Dabchick’s revival, no matter how long it takes.

[@falconNL]

So here as some tips and tricks on the resin printer. 1# Pick an good resin: I see you use the Halot, and I would highly suggest an Eco-Resin or water washable resin since our little fellow comes in contact with food and drinks alot. Then look up the what the advice settings for that resin is. 2: A good long first exposure layer will make sure stuff will be good and stuck to your baseplate. You should also get an magnet base so its easier to remove stuff. 3. Use a good slicer: I would personally recommend Lychee. It even has a function that will help you with the orientation of your parts. 4: I would highly suggest you give @3Dprintendsoup an message, im absolutely sure he would love to help out!

[@Scorchlette]

His revival arc is nearly complete. Soon, Dabchick shall grace this land once more.

[@swampmaster330]

I've had the same issues, first check all your settings in your slicer (cure time etc.), if that won't do it try spraying the membrane lightly with PTFE-lubricant, i wipe most of it off so just the smallest film of lubricant stays and reapply every 10-20 prints or resin-swaps. Worked like a charm for me. Cheers!

[@xremming]

That moustache is quite something. I like it! I found you through some of the early dabchick videos and I am so excited seeing him getting a new life! Perhaps for the "final" version you should look into some of the industrial 3D printing stuff I think those should be much more durable and maybe some company would be happy to do a collab?

[@amoose136]

Make a silicone mold from the printed geometry and then you can make cast polyurethane duplicate parts that are custom pigmented as desired. Polyurethane resin is strong, comes in a range of hardnesses so you can get the amount of flex you want, is UV stable, and impervious to water and many liquids.

[@YADADADADADADAKABOOM]

There's a good chance that you may hear this tip by the next episode, but one thing I may suggest is that you angle the object on a second axis so that the cross sections of the layers don't create too much suction. I was having a lot of printer trouble, and that was one thing I learned. Hope that helps!

[@integza]

If you ever need 3D Printed parts just give me a call you beautiful bastardo ! Also great job with the printer

[@lolzombieeddy626]

good luck man! new person into the world of 3d printing starting off with a reson printer

[@danielbear3802]

Loved the overlord line. You need to put that on a shirt. I would pledge to our overlord.

[@petrzouhar1243]

For the adhesion issues I would recommed puting ptfe lube on ptfe sheet. I use this method on my mars 2 (quite similiar printer to Halot) and i did not have any adhesion problems. But it might not resolve the spliting since it can be caused by other factors like type of resin used, temperature and few other.

[@Broke_Spider-Man_Cosplayer]

You could use the resin parts and use them in silicone molds. That way you are able to get the detail of the resin printed parts, and the stability of better resins or epoxy

[@TheFurriestOne]

That print is like eldritch Dabchick, beak full of tentacles! XD

[@dutch_blades]

You could have him 3D printed and then use the parts for lost resin casting to make a full metal Dabchick to last you a lifetime!

[@liamthrelfall4642]

Regarding the failed prints there's a great video by " Once in a 6 Side " that goes into supporting and printing your own models. But from my own experience for resin printing it seems your lift speed is set to fast and your exposure time might not be calibrated correctly for the model and resin your using you might also want to reduce the size of the supports attached to Dabchick and use hot water to make the removal of supports far easier

[@JTCF]

Local man starts researching 3d printing to resurrect his 2nd personality's physical body.

[@ivyisle]

I'd recommend a service that could print those parts for you but it would probably be too expensive at this point. Hoping you have better luck in this project my friend and keep up the good work 💪

[@lessel1103]

You can print in a ceramic resin, you'll have to heat it afterwards in a kelm over many hours and the print will shrink a tiny bit but if you get the dimensions right after a couple of hours in the heat then it will be strong , uv resistant and water resistant

[@ianshurla3983]

I had a layer separation issue that was caused by bad bearings. I solved it by carefully cleaning the linear tracks they run on and applying bearing grease to them and running the carriage up and down until it stopped making a crunching noise while traveling.

[@kingparker42]

2:47 - 3:43 even though he’s still broken, this is still very much threatening and very funny.

[@WolfoftheBorderline]

Good luck to you man! I've toying with resin printing for years and still learning new techniques to refine the process 😁

[@sueg2658]

Dear Dabchick, we miss you and sending well wishes. We have faith in Barnaby that he will come up with a clever solution soon. Be well to you and Barnaby. 👍🏻💪🏻🤘🏻♥️

[@Dysonsphere42]

you could use the resin printer for prototyping dabchick then use a 3d printing service to print the final version out of a really resilient material

[@seedmoreuser]

Got one of those printers. Try bumping up the first few layers to like 60 seconds. Also invest in a flexible build sheet. Makes removal when the prints are done so much easier.

[@potSine]

The splits are also a result of the print sticking to the film, it just gets picked up again later by another part of the print. Other people have said it already but more smaller supports, add some redundant ones as well.

[@pyrosnineActual]

I'd recommend simply printing a "block" version of Dabchick, and then just using a sculpting kit carve the finer details in that way, sand, and then paint. Ultrafine details means weaker prints, or imperfections- better to make something "close enough" that you can touch into place than aim for a perfect print.

[@aisharane]

He is ALIVEEEEEE Rise, Dabchick, Rise

[@3nertia]

HE IS AWAKE

[@M3n5c3]

Smosh is back and so is dabchick,kind of

[@john_stafford]

I can’t believe our avian overlord was violated like this. Tsk, tsk, tsk.

[@dionysus6892]

Some small part of me would love a pancaked Dabchick head to display in my home to the dismay and confusion of guests. Hopefully Dabchick makes a recovery soon! Good luck Dabchick and Barnaby!

[@Miketz]

As a beginner resin printer, may I offer some tips? 1. Calibrating the printer to the resin using calibration prints (such as "Cones of calibration) is a must. 2. I don't have any experience with the resin you are using but those types of resin tend to be brittle - drop them and they will shatter. The solutions are to mix resins with different properties, I find a 70:30 mix of brittle:flexible resin gives a tough print that doesn't shatter. 3. UV stability can easily be gotten around by simply painting the result. One of the benefits of resin printers is that printing multiple things at the same time does not add to print time, so you can print multiple components to increase your chance of a successful print and also give you backup components in case you damage one.

[@zarlathevenecianwreck]

"Do your little danc- THERE you go :D" Pure seratonin