Using Slings to Equalise A Trad Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1179

[@ananda_miaoyin]

I like that you show a ton of methods for trad anchoring. The only thing I would add is when you get that first piece in, you clip YOURSELF in to it and then build the rest of the anchor. You do not want to take a fall down to your last piece while horsing around setting up a belay station!

[@kevinscheetz9643]

Great video! That second one is new to me. To prevent the stitching from getting in the way on fiddly anchors, I like to clove hitch the sling to one of the carabiners to keep it from moving.

[@vytiscerniauskas620]

Great series. If there's a chance, you could add sport multi-pitch advise series. Some people think that belaying and leading knowledge is sufficient to begin multipitching, but that's clearly not the case. Some insiders from multipitch climbers would be useful.

[@Sturzfaktor2]

Thanks for the advice! I didn't know about the second method for when the sling is just a bit too short. Will keep that in mind.

[@slacker697]

i think its called a SWAMP (shelf without a master point)

[@mountbeckworth1]

Thanks. I wonder, though, if you are going to lead through to the next pitch, isn't there a danger that your fall will cause an upward force on the 2 nuts and potentially pull them out. In Australia we would tend to have a separate piece in to stop an upward pull.

[@LindsayHopkins]

The climber generally places a piece of gear before setting off, preventing that happening

[@thomasschulz3442]

😍Love this series!

[@bluejuice7229]

Nice alpine method. If you are doing this in cold weather and with gloves I prefer using a clove hitch knot in a sling instead. You can also put two hms carabiners in the clove hitch as your central point. If your pro is bommer this method will be able to withstand more stress such as a factor 2 fall.

[@you2tooyou2too]

An important point for the overhand is that it is fully equalized within a 'reasonable' range of load direction, and very limited drop-load if one pro fails.

[@Overkill_Offroad]

From the camera perspective, the angle between the master point and the two anchor points is pretty wide. it appears to be so wide that each of the anchor points is carrying 100% or more of the load. Is this just because of the camera angle?

[@gimpdoctor8362]

I think the camera makes it look like a smaller angle than it probably is - I think the angle would definitely fail the spock test. But if he and his second are happy with it then power to em

[@AnonymousOtters]

Looking at 3:41 and 6:00 it looks to be more acute than other views. It looks to be less than 90 to me. We are really just guessing though.

[@IliaNadyrbayev]

I'm sure the director of the ISM knows what he's doing and wouldn't be where he is if he didn't.

[@AnonymousOtters]

Not necessarily, stupid people make it to all kinds of high places. Look at the U.S. President.

[@bluejuice7229]

Ian Lol.

[@lanesplit2039]

Hmm, could have put 2 draws back to back, rather than just the one

[@pilorom]

Why not using a Sliding X to save to more sling lenght? Ps. 2 nuts for an anchor, a bit dicey maybe?

[@Sturzfaktor2]

If one of the anchors of a sliding x fails, the remaining anchors are shock loaded which might lead to additional anchors failing.

[@bluejuice7229]

Sliding x is ok if you add knots to minimise a no extension scenario but you are just adding knots to an already short sling which only gets weaker...

[@benjohnson5517]

Very dicey

[@lacrosse4100]

The nuts are dicey, but the sliding x is not good for trad anchors because if a piece fails it shock loads the the other piece. It's more of a convenience for sport climbs/ trad routes with bolted anchors because you dont need to put any effort into equalizing it.

[@slacker697]

@@Sturzfaktor2 can place a limiter know on the left side to limit extension, but i agree, not ideal.

[@jombwabf8027]

that looks like a dynema sling..? aare'nt they are weakened by adding knots?

[@1Molehill]

A knot does reduce the Kilo newtons going through the system as the knot tights a has a little slippage. Also the section of rope he's using takes a lot of power out if the fall through stretch and it's knot tightening. DMM do a really good video on dynema sling failures on here.

[@steventhaw3765]

Clove Hitch for All Anchor Points and the Master Point!!! The Strongest, Safest, Fastest, and Most Efficient !!!