Outboard won't crank or turn over, electric start not working

So you've just turned the key and nothing happens. In this video we look at all the reasons why an outboard with an electric start might not turn over. This can be caused by something as simple as a flat battery or range from faulty switches and blown fuses to a bad starter motor or even a seized engine. With a simple multimeter and a few ideas you'll be able to figure out why your outboard won't crank in no time.
If your motor is cranking but not running, then take a look at this video on the next step in the diagnostic process: • Video
For outboard repair information, checkout my website: outboard.dangarmarine.com/guide
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[@neilenos4826]

This video is fantastic! My issue was the neutral switch which wasn't getting contact in neutral as it had broke, therefor breaking the circuit. A problem I would never have found if it wasn't for this very in depth step by step analysis. Credit to you Danger Marine, you've saved my Christmas holidays! Thankyou

[@iangreig906]

I recently purchased a small tinner with a 25hp 2 stoke Merc. The seller was less than honest and I've been able to use this video and your other videos to revive the engine and save me a lot of money. I owe you big thanks for all your time putting these videos together!

[@DangarMarine]

Great to hear the videos have been helping you. 👍🏼

[@csedan7916]

Great video...haven't got my no power to ignition switch sorted yet (1987 Johnson 25hp) but this has given me further direction to look into.

[@knightgary3139]

Just experienced this exact problem, after disconnecting gear cables earlier I experienced no electrics, fortunately it was just two cables had discounted as I struggled putting outboard cover back on. Thank you so much for all of the brilliant videos, I have learnt so much after purchasing my canal boat earlier this year, cheers

[@RustyStrings666]

DUDE! I've had my non starting engine in pieces for the last 2 weeks, convinced there was nothing wrong with it.. found this video and discovered that my neutral protection switch was completely destroyed. Thankyou so much! ❤😊

[@MrGoduckhunting]

Thank you for taking the time to put this video together!

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome. :)

[@mrsuarez430]

Also I have that the yammy next you one of the best engines ive ever had so dam dependable and easy to work on if you have to

[@bibper]

Fantastic video man. Thanks. Getting out there soon to test all the things you described!

[@ThePorterd]

I had an appointment tomorrow to find the problem with my outboard not starting. "Watched this video, went out and moved the gear switch back and forth and back to neutral and instant start. Saved me a bundle of money I am sure. I had just replaced the battery and assumed I had shorted something. Thanks Dangar Marine!!

[@DangarMarine]

Good news! Glad the vid helped you. :)

[@scottie82]

awesome video, just saved me $300 bucks on a starter that only needed new springs for the brushes. Very well explained, thank you

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome. Really glad to hear the video helped you. :)

[@tonygreen1262]

This really helped me understand the starting circuit and how to troubleshoot and repair a Tohatsu 8 HP 2-stroke. I found a blown fuse and a misaligned start-in-gear interlock switch. The electric start works great now! Thanks!!

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome Tony. Nice work on getting it all fixed up. :)

[@MrChuckster07]

Wow! Very good... first thing you said to check was my problem! It looked like it was in neutral but nothing... I rocked it from reverse to drive a few times then back to neutral and boom! It started. Thank you.

[@DangarMarine]

That is more common than people realise. :)

[@isaacfu9290]

Okay just sent it to your paypal. Let me know if you did not get it. Thanks again Stu. You are a good man and this world needs more people like you.

[@DangarMarine]

+Isaac Fu Just saw it pop up on my phone then, thanks so much Isaac, I'll put that towards better lighting. And I really hope one day I can take you up on that offer of a fishing trip. :) All the best, Stu

[@tommanley2025]

I have always enjoyed your videos due to the amount of explanations that you give us as to how to trouble shoot and do some repairs when sometimes the special tools are not available. I wanted to learn more about how to totally troubleshoot when you did not have juice at the motor and this video did what I truly needed. Thanks and hope you continue with these videos.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Tom, glad you enjoyed it. This one of the older videos I'm planning to make a better version of soon. My website might also help you outboard.dangarmarine.com/guide

[@lastcall170]

Thanks for your working knowledge on this. My used purchased outboard motor will not start with the ignition key but will rope start. I will do the steps to assure their is good connection ...and will troubleshoot the switches...solenoid and starter.

[@davemacfadyen3174]

Thank you!!!...for your reminder to check the obvious stuff first! I checked the battery, and it was not drawing down; however, when I disconnected the terminals from the motor to the battery, I saw that they looked like they might not be making a good connection; a couple of minutes with a knife and a file to get them clean, and upon reconnecting the CLEAN terminal ends, the electric starter fired right up. Thanks again!!! =>

[@Will-mj6ti]

Well done with your video mate . Just got ripped off from to many boat mechanics for small repair jobs. For some stuff it took them 5 minutes and they wanted to charge me about $250 :/ That's why I'm fixing now myself boats until I'll find a good mechanic that I can trust. Until then I'll watch your videos and learn :)

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. Even if you do go back to using a mechanic, I think it really helps to know what is involved in doing the job when you are talking to them. Good luck! :)

[@Will-mj6ti]

yeah that's right :)

[@joseabernaljr1307]

Wow very informative thank a lot. I will probably watch this video hundred times till I have it learned. Thank you again.

[@myvids1373]

Solved my problem in the first 1:20 wasn’t neutral 😂 it looked like it was in the right position! Small push in and out of gear fixed this 🤦‍♂️Thanks a million mate!

[@seanashcroft9713]

ANOTHER AWESOME VIDEO! GOOD ON YOU MATE! THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND SHARING.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Sean. This is a video I want to re-film one day due to the bad audio of the early videos but I'm glad the information still helped you.

[@Vilhyto]

Love that Gin. I'd also need some when struggling with my motor. Little too much rowing today...

[@uptonster]

Fixed my starting problem thanks to this! Many thanks!

[@DangarMarine]

Great to hear!

[@curthoman4419]

Great video very easy to follow and helpful. My solution ended being the fix at 4:30.

[@DangarMarine]

Nice work!

[@michaelbeswick1506]

Nice! I'll be tearing into a 2011 Merc 25 that, I think, has a broken rod...we'll see how she goes and if the blocks damaged. Thanks again!

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome Michael, good luck!

[@alistairsutherland6571]

Hi. Thanks for all the great videos! Have really helped me a ton! I was hoped you or someone could help with a problem I’m having with my outboard. When I turn the key there is absolutely nothing. I am getting over 12v at the ignition when checked. It starts perfectly when jumping the solenoid and runs great!

[@RobertWhite-rj2zu]

Need help

[@robertbarlow6801]

thanks for the videos i no Nothing about outboards and i turned the key and nothing happened so i try the starter motor and the solenoid and they both work just so i thought battery or terminals checked battery it was good so i checked the terminals and replaced them and found out the starter motor was sticking so i watched the video on starter motor and it works like a new one so thank you

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Robert, glad to hear the videos helped you. Well done on getting it fixed. :)

[@aizen-xii]

Hi Stu its not Adrian I use his e mail address to stop unwanted adverts Im Terence, I must say a big thank you to your vidoes,,, I have never worked on an engine before in my life but watched your vids and decided to work on my Mercury 80 two stroke it had as you say gunk in my carbs so after two days of work eureka my engine runs like a new one, thanks again and a big thumbs up to you M8. Regards TERENCE lol

[@nunapitchuk]

Turned the key and nothing happened. Battery is good & connections tight. Neutral switch fine. Removed starter and tested, it is good. Watched your video and something you said just clicked. Something about having 12V doesn't mean you have enough electric current. When I shorted the battery wire at the engine to ground I did not get even a little spark, but it read 12V on my meter. I sanded off the battery connections and tried again. Big spark! I tried starting it and it started right up! No problem mate. Sometimes it is the smallest things, right? Thanks for the video.

[@DangarMarine]

Glad you got to the bottom of it. It's amazing how often it is something simple.

[@daveroberts6884]

I had the same thing happen at the launch ramp. I went to my 2011 Rav and got a few clicks and then nothing. I got the vehicle started with a boost and got home in darkness without an issue. The vehicle started every time after but this concerned me enough to check the battery terminals. The vehicle had been serviced a week before and the dealer had sprayed the terminals with oil. (Japanese plated steel ones.) In pulling them off I found the positive terminal did have some fluffy corrosion, negative looked good. I scuffed the posts and clamps with sand paper but it back together and sprayed the terminals with spray paint. All seems fine, I would guess the corroded post had done me in and in the process of putting the booster cable on, I probably improved the contact. This was 8 weeks ago. Not a problem since.

[@davidkrenek6551]

great vid cant tell how many time u have kept come 1996 suz purring thank u !!!!!

[@jean-sebastienlegare1718]

Thank you for the video. Very instructional and clear. I found this video because my outboard wouldn't turn/crank, even when using the pull cord -- couldn't pull the cord, as if it was in gear. Quick troubleshooting steps are given around 00:02:00 which were useful (in neutral, safety cord, battery, etc) but didn't cover my particular case. I discovered I'd accidentally stored the motor on the wrong side when transporting it and had hydraulically locked the pistons. Pulling the spark plugs out and cranking the engine allowed to flush the oil out , and restored working order. That should probably be added to the list of quick checks. The symptoms of a seized motor are described at 00:22:31, which matched all of the symptoms of my motor. But I'm glad I tried pulling the plugs! Motor was fine. I've had a similar situation also arise after sailing in stormy weather (motor was off during) -- large waves rocked the motor around and probably shuffled water/oil in the wrong places -- had only managed to restart the engine after flushing the pistons. Worth a try. A similar issue is hydrolock, which isn't mentioned here but is another possible cause.

[@DangarMarine]

That's a good point, spark plugs out is always a good way to try turning it over for the first time.

[@mrsuarez430]

Holy shit I thought I was a genius lmao I made a tool like that for a winch I had with bad brushes years ago Good vid as usual chief I'm working on a starter issue on an old 79 35 hp Rude but I'm pretty sure it's just tired wires need to be replaced

[@djdreadknotz]

I like this guy great video...crickets are like asmr in the video lol....but he knows his stuff.....

[@carolest.laurent-groves8791]

Loving this. Thank you so much.

[@RealStuff001]

Hi, Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Are there more complex starting interlocks? I recently got an old Suzuki dt55. Ignition beeped and it started and ran perfectly, then 10 minutes later, tried to start it again, but no cranking, but also no ignition beep. Checked neutral switch, kill switch etc. Not getting any small wire voltage to the solenoid. The trim and tilt works fine and battery is strong. There is some sort of black box in the forward control, and of course the CDI ignition. Im perplexed, just getting nothing from start circuit. Not sure if it might have overheat or low oil lockouts.

[@singleshot1331]

The tool for the starter is cool didn't think of that but I got some small copper wire bent it over pushed them in to where they wouldn't come out put it on and then a wiggled the wire till they came out working good hopefully it didn't hurt the brushes

[@Lsailor169699]

Good video Mate!

[@TheCypherBlu]

Great video, thank you!!

[@harkino]

Thanks a lot for this video. I spent hours trying to figure out my remote it 30 Mins you answered my problem.

[@DangarMarine]

Glad the video helped you. :)

[@DrummerDaveCSRA]

Great video.

[@clarkeswood]

For an engine with diagnostics capability, would a starter relay fault show up. I think I have this fault right now on my Yamaha 200 and was thinking of buying diagnostics to check before I spend the time on the work?

[@JoseHernandez-ir3gv]

Dangar, Thanks, my problem was the battery. engine wouldn't crank and trim wouldn't rise or lower. I changed battery terminals to the other battery and engine cranked over and everything worked afterwards. Bad battery read 12.68V on the multimeter but when I did the load test, it dropped.

[@DangarMarine]

Yes, a static voltage test can be very deceptive. Been caught out by that before! :)

[@isaacfu9290]

Sounds good Stuart. I will do that the next time that I get down there. That is a great idea to do it with a new wire separate from purchasing a new wiring harness. Should it register 12V at the pin and up at the controls when I am done?

[@DangarMarine]

+Isaac Fu Yeah, any time you can avoid expensive original parts it's a good day. A good wire with low resistance (no breaks and an appropriately thick diameter) should give you pretty much battery voltage, which should really be about 12.6 on a healthy battery.

[@colinandrew9619]

Brilliant video.

[@nameless4284]

Hendricks gin, great choice!

[@delstep2255]

Can you tell me what battery cable specifications l need for a Yamaha 55hp 2 stroke motor?

[@michaelhallock1704]

hey, i was wondering how many cranking amps a 40 hp mercury stroke should have?. my bilge pump,livewill,nav lights connected on 1 circuit to my main motor then when i try and start the motor nothing happens then when i take off the other stuff from the main battery it starts just fine, then the other stuff works just fine on the other battery then somethimes when i put all three again it starts 1 time then it doesmt start at all again?. i called 3 rivers and they said the battert is to small for the motor it has 750 cranking amps. 3 rivers said i need at least a 1000. when i download the chart it says its needs a min of 525 cranking amps?.

[@trevorhanlon777]

Hiya,I have a problem with a evinrude 40 hp starter motor.Its a secondhand motor that i have wired with my jumper wires.Theres no scolenoid, just a direct to my battery. If i wire it correctly it shorts directly.I checked it a number of times and i confirm i have it wired correctly. If i wire it ie negative to positive (thread) and wired positive to starter earth or grounds it works well........ it proves that there is a dead short but im surprised that i get ot to work.... I havent found that before,what is youre thought please?

[@AlexanderRomanoff]

Awesome video, thanks Dangar! I am trying to get my Yamaha 150 2-Stroke started and have a single click every time I turn the key. I am thinking its the starter relay unit.....I appreciate the tips on how to check it. Any other suggestions on what it could be?! Thanks mate!

[@nicholastaylor645]

i am having that problem right now!!!!! did you ever figure it out?

[@user-dt5yb6nw2v]

What took do you use to get the circlip off the starter on evinrude

[@21gdubb]

Battery good, starter good, motor runs when starter manually with a pull cord when battery is connected and key is switched on...turn the key and nothing. If it was an issue with the solenoid, would i hear it buzzing or clicking trying to make the contact? Would taking lock washers of of the connections help reduce resistance? Thanks for the helpful videos by the way!

[@Jeym4]

I have this same issue but cannot find how to fix

[@21gdubb]

J M mine turned out to be the two small wires to the solenoid. One was broken and somehow I didnt see that, and then once i replaced that i saw that the other wire was so corroded that there was little or no connection so I cut it back as far as I could until i had some decent wire and replaced the corroded wire. No issues now.

[@jacobbooher1927]

I have 1980 evinrude 35hp outboard won’t crank. Is there a chance it’s the internals of the “transmission”? I work on cars not on 2 strokes. I could really use some help. I have electric start and will be testing the key ignition tomorrow but I would like some professional insight please.

[@gnoski100]

Hi Mate. Really helpful videos thanks! I've got a 90hp Evinrude. Today I turned the key and heard the humming you mentioned. Switched the key a few times and it eventually cranked and fired. Next attempt to start resulted with no humming, no solenoid clicking either. I bypassed the solenoid and the starter motor functions, so does this imply the trouble rests at the solenoid, trigger wires or fuse? Also, where does this humming noise originate from?

[@DangarMarine]

The humming is generally the solenoid failing to fully activate due to low voltage / current. More often than not it is either a flat battery for bad leads / connections between the battery and the starter motor.

[@negotamimesa8491]

hello mate thanks for the videos.

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome. :)

[@F1Hopeful]

Great video mate. Cheers.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks 👍

[@GatesRapes]

The best on YT

[@georgemorales2128]

can you teach me to use or make one of them things to start an electric start engine when you stand right next to it like you do Please

[@Otcprgroupllc]

Hi Dangar, I have 25hp Suzuki that sometimes will not turn over. I have bench tested the starter and it works fine. I then bypassed the safety switch but still have the same intermittent crank and non crank problem. Is it possible that the solenoid can sometimes work then not work or do you think that this is a faulty push button start switch?

[@DangarMarine]

+OTC PR GROUP Intermittent problems are always tricky to diagnose unfortunately, it could be either. If you hook the switch up to a multimeter to check resistance, do you get a very low reading when you press it? (ie. almost zero ohms) When it doesn't start, if you supply power to the activation terminal on the relay/ solenoid does it crank? Watching my "How to install a starter motor on an outboard" video will give you some more information how to do this that may help you diagnose your problem.

[@Timbuctoo]

If my outboard is in gear will the tilt and trim from the outboard also not work?

[@HalfAssHomestead]

Those crickets would drive me nuts. But loved the video

[@ychongy]

Thanks for the videos! I was wondering if you know what the problem is when a fly wheel is hard to turn. The starter engages but has a hard time turning it. Fly wheel turns freely when all plugs are pulled.

[@DangarMarine]

Sounds like the motor has good compression then which is a good thing. Sounds like your problem is motor the starter itself, battery charge level or the leads supplying power.

[@j.main2380]

Was wondering What if it cranks good once or twice but then cranks really sluggish to not cranking at all, unless i wait 5min and repeat

[@sergiomoran8851]

How can you test a neutral start switch and find out why a switch will not engage when shifting gears, to a 1981 Johnson seahorse 35hp (J35ecig). Motor will not crank at all, after testing the starter and solenoid (which I've replaced), I noticed that the Neutral start switch will not depress (click on, nor off) when shifting gear from forward to neutral.

[@kellyrafferty7792]

I have ( E 70 tecem I have a part that is electric. It has 3 wires 2 yellow 1 red . It is about the size of a silver roller . It is about 1 inch tall 2 screen's to hold it on . It is also on the rightb side of the motor . I hope I have given you enough info to help . Oh the problem in the red wire is burnt to a crisp what is and what dose it do

[@skyhighkite3123]

2004 yamaha f150 sat all winter without proper winterization. changed oil and cleaned fuel system like always, tried to start but sounds like dead battery, barely turns over ... checked voltage 12.4v, drops to 12.2 when starting... put jumper cables on car to help still wont start. put it in gear and tried to turn prop over, but barely moves... what do i try next? remove spark plugs? seized from sitting all winter? maybe its got the virus, i got get back to work with this thing please help! thanks!

[@jasonpetermuir1]

Is it OK to drink CC and Dry when working on Yamaha outboard?

[@DangarMarine]

Canadian Club is a perfectly fine drink for almost all outboard repair. The mixer depends a bit on the year the outboard was made. Dry is good for outboards made in the '60s and '70s, Coke is preferred for outboards form the '80s and '90s and Redbull is for anything newer than that.

[@Arnald086]

Hallo! Thank you for tour wonderful video, i Just solved a horrible issue with the steering wheel thanks ti one of your videos!! Now I have another problem with starting an old 25hp Yamaha. The electric starting motor spins, but it sounds like the battery is too low even if it's brand new. Someone suggested me that it might be due to some corrosion problems in the electrical connection that do not allow enough current pass through. Could you please help me with this? Have you encountered any similar problem?

[@DangarMarine]

Yes, it could definitely be a problem with the connections between the battery and the starter as well as the leads themselves. A voltage drop test can help see if that is the case. It could also be bad brushes inside the starter itself. You can try supplying current directly to the starter motor with jumper leads to see if it is any different.

[@b-manz]

Awesome videos thanks. Just the sound is a bit quiet got the volume at max and still very quiet.

[@DangarMarine]

Thank mate, yeah, the old videos have bad audio until I bought the new lapel mic.

[@joshspencer6489]

If I put power right to the starter should it roll over? If not is my motor seized up?

[@V0ID22]

I have a 92 merc 25 which when using the electric start the choke works fine, but when I use the pull cord to start and if the choke is pulled out the cord will not come out?

[@DangarMarine]

Hmmm, that's a bit weird. Sounds like the choke is triggering the start in gear protection. The latest video I uploaded is all about that.

[@pharr-deensalauroo4659]

hello my friend i have a problem with my yamaha 15 hp can u help me to fix it?

[@leanto121]

1972 50hp johnson sluggish in cranking over brand new batt cca 680 marine, new solenoid up market,. new batt cables, new solenoid to starter cable ,cleaned terminals and all areas where earth.tried two different starter motors which turn over when not under load,batt cable direct. remove spark plugs turns freely not under load. when it was going, Notice turning the key off motor[ boat] would kick forward slightly. slow crank overall.

[@DangarMarine]

Were either of the start motors you tried new? If everything else is new and the motor itself isn't seized or hard to turn over then it's not out of the realm of possibility for both starter motors to be bad.

[@tugmasterb]

So i have a mercury 1996 90 horse. This weekend it started fine. Ran fine. Then half way through the day turned the key nothing. But trimed/tilted fine. Turned the key on and of a dozen times and it fired. Ran fine. Turned it off and on fine through out the day . Except for it doing the same thing another 4 times. Being such an intermittent problem it's hard to know where to start. I'm wondering if it could be a faulty ignition

[@DangarMarine]

Hey Brett, could be a faulty ignition, starter motor or a faulty starter solenoid. Test if current is getting to the trigger wire on the solenoid when you turn key. If you are and the solenoid doesn't making a clicking sound it will be the solenoid, if you are and the solenoid does click then it is likely to be the starter motor.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Hi Stu, another great video. better than watching soaps. Haha Anyway my 60 merc starter works and tested the solenoid and switch is working. next will check the neutral safety switch. I have a hunch that's it.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. Sounds like you are onto it. Once you know each component works in isolation then you can always figure out what is going on in the end. Just be careful when you check if things like solenoids are working that you don't have a high resistance. Getting battery voltage coming out doesn't always mean you will get enough current to turn the motor.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Dangar Marine yes I see your point. didn't test the current just heard it click. I have to rig up so small alligator clips to attach to my multimeter. you said around 18 was good. I'll re-watch the video.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

There is one thing that is bugging me on this search. I have a remote key box with cable to plug into the outboard that worked last year fine. it doesn't work either but when turning the key on it there is no click from the solenoid or the choke? where as I can hear those click from the console switch?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

I just put the multimeter on ohms 200m setting and with the solenoid switch on with the 12 battery with the tester leads on the large post got a reading of 18.0 ohms but the more I tested it it was from 18 all the way down to .003 and back up? not sure if that's good or not?

[@DangarMarine]

That could be a problem with the switch or the loom. I would find a wiring diagram for it and check continuity across the pins on the plug as you get someone to turn the key and press it in for choke. Could also be that no power is getting to it due to a blown fuse or something.

[@bradleyhall5286]

So I'm looking at buying a boat this weekend and the boat has no key. Not having a key is not an issue, the issue is not being able to turn it over to do a compression test. Can I use booster cables and a battery to put power directly to the starter so the starter turns the motor over and do a compression test that way? I know it wont be 100% accurate because the motor will be cold but it would give me an idea.

[@DangarMarine]

Yes, you can do that just fine. You can even use use a remote starter kzbin.info/www/bejne/gouqn36imdZ3qaM

[@blialee9787]

can you do a video about boat starter. I buy new starter to my boat and install. the starter do not turn off unless I have to unplug the battery. I need your expertise..

[@DangarMarine]

Hmm, sounds like either the relay that controls the starter or the ignition switch is broken. Use the information in this video on doing those tests to make sure they are both working properly. The new starter motor is unlikely to be faulty.

[@silvesterweber2879]

Plz make a video about power pack what could happen when boosting your boat what all can go wrong and diagnose a faulty battery pack

[@DangarMarine]

Will add it to the list.

[@arronhannah3710]

Hi Stu. Love the vids! I was wondering if you had one on testing a switchbox on a mercury 850 thunderbolt or something similar? I’m at a loss. Still need to check for spark and have heard the kill switch? May also be an issue! Cheers! Keep em comin!

[@DangarMarine]

Hi Arron, no videos yet, but I would definitely be checking the kill switch first if you have no spark. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iX-UaJx4gZqfptU

[@arronhannah3710]

Dangar Marine Thanks. Unfortunately my 1977 model doesn’t have a kill switch anywhere that I can find. I’ve heard others talk about Mercury switch but can’t seem to find one either. I’m trying to figure out how to test the trigger before I remove the flywheel to see if that is the reason I’m not getting fire.

[@dustinpotter3523]

My trim up or down won’t work from the throttle as well is this because of the 3rd switch also

[@tonchido]

You have to clean it from inside

[@dkdogs]

question for you. I have a 1999 force 120hp. The factory starter went bad last year. I added a new starter and worked fine most of last year. This year the starter stopped working. I replaced the starter again. Worked for a few weeks and stopped turning the motor over. I added yet another new starter and it's working OK for now. my question is what might I do to troubleshoot the failing starter problems? Thanks!

[@DangarMarine]

That's a very good question, and is a very similar problem to what I was having with my own boat. Did you ever take the failed starters apart to see what was wrong with them?

[@dkdogs]

+Dangar Marine no. they are under warranty and messing with them would void that

[@hughbrady4749]

I've heard that you should check your grounds from the starter, remove paint and corrosion. Also I have read that the grounds on the starter solenoid can be the cause as well.

[@DangarMarine]

+Hugh Brady Yep, bad or corroded connections anywhere in the circuit can definitely cause voltage drops.

[@altezzas14]

Hi, thank you for your videos. I’ve learned a lot from them. I have a 17ft with a 90hp Johnson 4 stroke which is made by Suzuki. I recently hit a rock going very slow speeds maybe 1-3mph but it caused the engine to stall and unable to restart. Every time I turn the key, the starter just click continuously. The flywheel is hard to turn by hand. I’ve looked online for few days now and I’m unable to find similar cases/solutions. Do you have any recommendations to check? Or do you think I should just take it to a boat mechanic? Thank you for your time and keep up the good work

[@DangarMarine]

Does sounds like something has caused it to seize up a bit. Could be a gearbox problem so I would drop the gearbox off and see if it starts then. Also take the spark plugs out and turn the engine over. I have heard of situations where people have put an engine into reverse just before hitting something and sucked water in through the exhaust into a cylinder. I know it sounds odd but it can happen causing a hydrolock.

[@altezzas14]

Thank you, will give it a try and see how it goes.

[@altezzas14]

Dangar Marine I drop the lower unit and doesn’t seem anything is broken or bend. I also pull all the spark plugs out and turn the motor slowly both ways. It don’t take much power to turn it but there is one spot that have more resistance. It still does the same thing, start clicks continuously and no start or crank. Do you think it might be the starter/solenoid or do you have any other suggestions?

[@ericktmc2962]

I have 2 1998 evinrude 150 ficht ocean pro motors. One starts fine the other does not. The one that has the problems will just click when you turn the ignition switch. The fly wheel barely wiggles with each click but not really turn over. I took solenoid from starting motor and put it on trouble motor and have same problem. When you jump across solenoid it turns over just fine.

[@DangarMarine]

So it sounds like the trigger wire to the solenoid might not be fully activating it then. If jumping it works then the starter motor is fine and the power supply to the power is fine. If swapping a known good solenoid doesn't help then it can't be the solenoid itself so I would look at the power being send to activate the solenoid when you turn the key.

[@isaacfu9290]

Great video and thank you for taking the time to post. I have a question about a 1993 Yamaha 200HP oil injected outboard that when I turn the key nothing comes up on the controls. It did about 4 months ago when I parked it for the winter but now when I turn the key there is nothing at all. No lights on the controls and no click that I usually hear. It is as if I did not turn the key at all. Would this be that neutral switch thing in the control box in your video that would need replacement? Is there main fuse on this motor. I only saw two inline 30AMP fuses under the cowling that both looked good when I checked - but not sure what they went to.

[@DangarMarine]

+Isaac Fu Hi Issac, it won't be the start in gear switch. I would start by checking the battery first condition first. After that I would look for a fuse. Unfortunately it can depend a lot on how the boat is wired how it is fused, but if you follow the cable from the battery to the wiring loom that heads up to the forward controls you should spot any that would affect the power. Also take a look at the condition of the electrical connections. It could simply been some corrosion that has built up over the winter. Stu

[@isaacfu9290]

+Dangar Marine that you for such a quick response. I did check the battery and that seems fine since the wipers and the bilge pump both work. I followed the battery cables and the ground goes to the starter and the positive goes to some wiring mechanism. but none of the lights come on on the control panel and the trim does not work. It is as if the motor is not connected to the battery at all. I will try the volt meter but I am not as good with it as you are.

[@DangarMarine]

The positive will normally go straight to the starter relay which will have additional wires to pickup power for the rest of the motor. Are there any other wires sharing the bolt where the positive battery connects?

[@isaacfu9290]

+Dangar Marine Yes there are other wires that come off of that. One of them had the 30 AMP fuse but I followed that one and it seemed to go down to the trim motor. Can I use the boat as my ground when testing with the volt meter? The other wires go all over the place. Some go under and aroud the back of the motor

[@DangarMarine]

Yep, the whole motor will be ground, just touch something that isn't painted.

[@Fish-please]

I kept shutting the video off because I thought there was somebody walking on my roof...ahahagagaha

[@roymead1669]

What did you use to test the solenoid? We’re those small alligator clamps connected to a 12v battery?

[@DangarMarine]

Yes, you can just supply power straight to it from a battery to test.

[@isaacfu9290]

Hi Dangar, so I got to check out the engine this past weekend (it is 1.5 hours away parked in a shed) and I tested the voltage at the input and it was 12 volts. It has two inline fuses 30A and 20A. Both of those tested at 12V. The tilt that comes off of there is also 12V and works on the engine itself. When I test further down at the 10 pin that goes up to the controls. Only one pin gives volts and it only gives 4V. Is it supposed to do that. The controls still do not light up when I turn the key on. Would this indicate that I need a new wiring harness that goes from the positive battery cable on the engine to the 10 pin? Thank you for all of your responses and time. If we can figure out the problem I would be happy to pay you for your time via paypal.

[@DangarMarine]

+Isaac Fu Hi Isaac. It does sounds like you have a bad wire for the power up to the controls, But I wouldn't buy a whole new loom. I have the same problem on my outboard and I just ran a separate wire from the fuse up to the forward controls (pin 10). A much cheaper way out of the problem! Well done on finding the voltage drop, sounds like you are getting close. Stuart

[@montellwilliams811]

Great video , But what's in those 2 Bottle's

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. Can't recall what I used in this video now. I usually use brake cleaner and carb cleaner for most cleaning jobs and Methylated spirits for removing water.

[@flagday84]

Stu, love the videos, so helpful. Quick question for ya: I have a new starter solenoid, its doesn't look like the one I'm replacing (because the one I'm replacing is a car solenoid put in by last owner). Neither the big posts nor the little posts are marked in anyway (the part is:"Starter-Solenoid-18-5835-Sierra"). Does it matter which wires hook up to which posts? I know that its big to big and small to small, but does it matter for example whether yellow or black goes to either small post in particular? Thanks, Aaron

[@DangarMarine]

+Aaron Hodgins Davis Good question, and no, it doesn't matter. When current passes between the two little posts in either direction the switch will close and once it closes current can flow between the big posts in either direction.

[@flagday84]

+Dangar Marine You're awesome, thanks very much!

[@DangarMarine]

+Aaron Hodgins Davis Welcome. :)

[@nzpatriot2009]

Mate, you're a legend! Any ideas as to a 1990 Mercury 90hp that started and motored out beautifully in the morning, but then wouldnt crank over or even actuate the trim and tilt? battery is good. Cheers bro! :) Greg.

[@DangarMarine]

Hi Greg. I'd start by checking fuses. There is probably a fuse that protects the power that runs up to the key to activate the solenoid and that fuse will probably also protect the switches that operate the trim tilt too.

[@seansexton5204]

I have the same problem on a 1997 yamaha c85. did you find a solution?

[@nzpatriot2009]

Yup, inline fuse on side of engine :)

[@seansexton5204]

Thank you! I loved NZ when I was there last year. Beautiful country!

[@nzpatriot2009]

Did you find the fuse mate? :)

[@ryanstevens3150]

I have a 1974 Johnson and it’s been setting for years I’m trying to get it started every time I try it is slow to crank what could be the issue Battery is brand new the starter was new when I parked it years ago

[@mrsuarez430]

Figure it out ?

[@dalestruck3337]

I have a 1976 johnson 35 horse and my starter does not fully engage and makes a grinding sound. Do you think it is the gear or the starter ? I have another starter but do not know how to test it .Thanks for any ideas you migt have.

[@DangarMarine]

There is a Bendix gear on the tip of the start that spins and rises up to engage with the flywheel. These can often get worn from the first moment of engagement. They are replaceable though. Also check that none of the bolts holding the starter motor in place have come lose. This will cause a misalignment that will in turn cause grinding.

[@dalestruck3337]

There was a bolt that needed to be tightened. after I did that it still would not engage far enough. I think the gear is wore enough but what do I know. Thank you so much for your reply. God bless Dale

[@allenlandeen9476]

Hey I wonder if you can shed some light on my boat, its a 1982 monarch bass boat, it has a 50 hp evinrude, with evinrude selectric push button controls. We can only get the motor to turn over if we hold the key in (with it in neutral), and slowly move the throttle forward and if we are lucky we will hit a sweet spot for long enough for the starter motor to engage. It also seemed to help in the process of finding the sweet spot if we pushed down on the neutral button at the same time. It doesnt seem like the there is any type of switch in the controls like the one in your video did, do you know where else a switch might be or have any advice on resolving this issue? Thanks so much!

[@DangarMarine]

+Allen Landeen It definitely sounds like a start in gear protection switch. Depending on the model of outboard this switch can either be in the throttle unit or back at the outboard itself. I would look for a parts diagram for your outboard here www.boats.net/parts/search/parts.html That should help you locate the switch and then see whether it needs adjusting or replacing.

[@sailingpittsburgh]

Hi Stu, OK, I'm still having problems with this attempt to clean up the wiring on my boat. I purchased the boat in January and had it checked out by a marine mechanic before the purchase. It started right up and everything was fine. I wanted to store the boat out of the weather so there are old limestone mines in the area that are converted to mine storage for boats and trailers - 55 degrees year round. The problem is the boat storage people disconnected the battery without my knowledge after leaving the boat with them for the winter. This spring I attempted to connect the battery to the ring leads and the boat would not crank. I have check and charged the battery and it seems fine - Advance Auto put it on their battery tester and the report indicates it is ok. The lights and radio on the boat work but it still will not crank when the key is turned. I am now thinking one of the wires on the positive battery terminal should really go on the negative terminal but I have no idea which one it could be. The wiring back by the battery is very confusing with no labels and not much concern for black being negative and red being positive. In an attempt to document the wiring I came up with the following: 2 heavy cables 1 black and 1 red - goes back to the outboard (no fuse) 1 red/(really orange) back to bilge pump 1 red with black tape on the loop connector - destination unknown 1 red connected to 20amp fuse then spliced to another red and another green - destination unknown 1 red connector has 3 splices first splice goes to 20 amp fuse and continues to red wire second splice goes to another 20 amp fuse, then to a 2 inch brown wire and ends with a blunt white connector holding a green wire that goes back to the negative bundle (i am really confused by this because it does not look like the blunt white connector connects the two wires it is holding. Also I do not understand why the positive red wire would be going back to the negative terminal via the green wire. third splice is a green wire that goes back to the stern - destination unknown I have tried to follow the wires up to the ignition key but the colors change up at the connections to the key so that does not help. The key also has a built in switch to engage the choke when the key is depressed. If you made it this far, here is the question. How do I determine the proper placement of the connectors onto the battery? I have a multimeter and know about continunity testing so I was considering placing the probes on each of the ring connectors while they are disconnected from the battery. If I get a reading, the circuit is complete so the red probe must be positive and the black probe must be negative thereby identifying the circuit. Am I on the right track here or should I do more research? Bob

[@DangarMarine]

Hi Bob, it is a tricky situation when there isn't any sensible colour coding or labelling. Continuity testing isn't going to help you really. Your only real option is to trace each wire to it's destination and figure out what it does. When wires go through tight spaces it can help to have a second person at the other end so you can tug on the wire and they can tell you which one moved on the other side. Spent a great deal of yesterday doing this on a boat and it is a real PITA. Interestingly this job was about removing all the old unnecessary wiring from the boat, something you might want to look at doing as a part of this exercise to make it simpler to work on in the future. Labelling as you go is also a good idea.

[@sailingpittsburgh]

Thanks for the reply Stu.

[@sailingpittsburgh]

Hi Stu, I took your advice and started to track wiring from the battery connector terminal rings to the destination devices on the boat. It turns out the bilge pump had an orange wire with black tape covering the terminal lead coming out of the bilge pump and a red wire with black tape covering the terminal lead heading up to the bilge pump switch. Since they were both redish wires I had them connected to the positive battery terminal. It turns out the bilge pump works when the orange wire (close to red) is connected to the negative battery terminal. I think connecting this wire to the positive side was shorting out the entire ignition key. When I connected them properly all of a sudden everything started to work again. I am in the process of ordering a terminal block and positive and negative buses you recommend in your wiring videos part1 and part2. This should clean up the birds nest I currently have back at the battery. Thanks for your help and your excellent youtube videos. Regards, Bob

[@chrisweld2903]

I have a 95 mercury 25hp 2 stroke tiller handle with a electric start. When I hit the electric start button when it's in neutral I get nothing. It wont start,no noises,no clicks. What could the issue be? It fires up fine with pull starter.

[@DangarMarine]

"What could the issue be?" is answered by this video.

[@mrsuarez430]

Hey bud Happy new year ! Question my merc 200 hp 2 stroker started fine this morning a couple hours later didn't start it has 12 v selenoid makes a single sound not the intermitint one and starter just slowly spins but doesnt engage the flywheel also it doesn't get hot are anything lol wierd the solenoid it has is about a year old shoukd I bridge the selinoid to see if its the starter ?

[@DangarMarine]

It could be the brushes in the motor starting to fail. Try connecting power directly to the starter using jumper leads and see if it spins at full speed, if not it's the starter itself.

[@mrsuarez430]

@@DangarMarine indeed was the starter although I tapped it with a rubber mallet and seems its fine now 🤷‍♂️ many thanks !

[@7mmmechanixs656]

Hi mate I have a 2018 50hp EFI foustroke , put a new starter on it and new battery and the motor only half cranks over real sluggish , but pull starts fine Im stuck knowing what it could be .

[@DangarMarine]

Could be brushes in the starter itself or a bad connection on the cable.

[@7mmmechanixs656]

@@DangarMarine it ended up being bad connection took it for a spin today ran sweet but all of a sudden after idling for 15mins I go to accelerate an its like it's not getting fuel jus revs up down up down up down then came good again then did it again , checked the fuel filter and the O ring on the filter inside was pinched could this cause this ?

[@justpedro93]

I have an Evinrude 40 hp when I turn the key and only hear a beep.. Need help!!

[@nickperez4830]

pedro gomez me too!! Somebody help!!

[@chrisallen3741]

Where would that be in a Yamaha control box. Ive never had a boat with these controls but it starts if i jump the solenoid…..which according to those tests….that’s what i need right? Or should i be testing the control box…..i dont know much about this topic .

[@rednhrailroad]

I have a Johnson, electric start, 15 hp. I just bought used. The first day it ran beautifully for an hour. The next time in the water it ran five minutes, stopped running rather abruptly'When I press the starter button NOTHING. Pull the starter rope - feels like it's seized: won't budge.But the top of the engine I can turn and I know it will start with my own pull cord as I pulled on it with a shoe string and it would have started but I did not want to overheat. How do I fix this?Thank you, Fred

[@DangarMarine]

I would take the pull starter off to begin with. If you can use a rope to start it then it can't be seized as you say. If I have misunderstood and it is seized, check if it is the gearbox or the power head. I have seen outboards where the gearbox has had no oil and caused the outboard to seize even though the motor itself is fine. The trick is to isolate each major component to narrow down the potential causes. Once you know the part causing the problem you can look for the specific cause and then a solution.

[@brett5649]

Hi mate. Have a 65hp Suzuki 1998. Have an issue with the glass 20 amp fuse next to starter. Boat has power to lights and bilge but nothing else. Every time a new fuse is put in it blows instantly without even turning key (key is off battery hooked up) any idea? Have no trim no crank or anything

[@DangarMarine]

There must a short in the wiring somewhere that is blowing the fuse. Carefully inspect all the wiring insulation for any melted or worn sections allowing the core to touch any metal anywhere.

[@brett5649]

@@DangarMarine wiring is the death of me. But after your comment puppet ignition box cover off went through all the wired and a earth wire had a tiny nick in the cable shorting on a bolt. Problem solved. Thanks a bunch

[@MrKorvette2005]

I am working on a Honda 8hp outboard that start sometimes and does not start other times and when that happens the tilt and trim does not work either.

[@DangarMarine]

Just sounds like a bad electrical connection in the main positive feed.

[@MrKorvette2005]

@@DangarMarine I rechecked the 20 amp fuse today and it had a burnt spot you could only see if the looked from the bottom. Replaced it and everything works now. 😆 lol