Painting an outboard lower unit

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Dangar Marine

Dangar Marine

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 270
@iModernChan
@iModernChan 5 жыл бұрын
You are clearly one of the person knowing the most things in the marine world on KZbin. I rebuilt prop bushing and some other things with all your videos. You are a boss. Thanks
@alangrant5278
@alangrant5278 3 жыл бұрын
Mate. I didn’t think I’d need to learn from this one. But today if sound I did and remembered to go back to it. You have made a great asset for us. Thanks Stu
@paulsmutz8881
@paulsmutz8881 4 жыл бұрын
Great video. I was very concerned about the pitting on my lower unit, but this video helped me restore it back to fantastic condition. Thank you so much for this video and all the others that have helped me along the way. This is a wonderful KZbin channel that shines through all the noise and junk out there. Perfect information, perfectly delivered.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks mate, glad the video help and glad you got your lower unit looking great again. :)
@louisliburdi7638
@louisliburdi7638 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all your help from your videos! I restored 2 outboards with your help.
@corkyvanderhaven3391
@corkyvanderhaven3391 3 жыл бұрын
Seen so many of these Really felt cheeky on this one. Ah, yes the kind, forgiving place of the internet recognizes you as the KZbin Godfather of Outboards
@beryean1366
@beryean1366 3 жыл бұрын
Your videos have been a big help.
@paulmccarragher196
@paulmccarragher196 5 жыл бұрын
Great vid Stu don't stress the little things love your attitude,great man cave
@samp3087
@samp3087 6 жыл бұрын
Really liking this series on the Johnson 30 rebuild. Bravo Stu. Welding in shorts and a T-shirt, SAVAGE!
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Sam. It's way too hot still to wear anything else! ;)
@robertdelgrosso2440
@robertdelgrosso2440 6 жыл бұрын
Nice video. I’m a big fan. I restored a 1985 privateer fiberglass boat from patching holes to wiring all new electronics and putting on a 2004 Yamaha 2 stroke. Could not of done it with out you. Thanks again.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Robert. Glad to hear the vids helped you get your boat all fixed up. :)
@MrCalifornia1234
@MrCalifornia1234 6 жыл бұрын
Good tips. I appreciate you trying new things and going over the process with us.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks mate!
@atman5230
@atman5230 6 жыл бұрын
Nice job.Lovely transformation of the 'Joe Mangled' lower unit.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks mate!
@brew_wy1375
@brew_wy1375 4 жыл бұрын
Disposable foam ear plugs are great for "masking" small holes.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 4 жыл бұрын
Good tip!
@jasonshillingburg6216
@jasonshillingburg6216 6 жыл бұрын
New subscriber to the channel here but I’ve been watching your videos for some time now they have taught me a lot and helped through some things on my boat, I really appreciate the time you take to explain everything and keep the videos coming they are great
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hi Jason, I'm glad you've been enjoying the vids and thanks for subscribing!
@inzane121
@inzane121 6 жыл бұрын
I second this comment!
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
Stu, Good job on restoring the lower unit. I do a lot of these. A couple of tips: 1. You used the right material to fill with. I highly recommend that you use a nylon body putty spreader next time. They flex to the contours of the lower much better than the metal ones. So much better, in fact, that you won't need the flap sander at all. Just skim it tightly once, then, if needed, a second time 15 mins later, if it's like JB weld. Sand it by hand with 220 grit, then skim any remaining imperfections. Use 220, then 400 grit to get it really perfect. I typically use JB weld, as someone else stated, a very similar product. A lower like yours shouldn't take more than an hour total to make really nice, especially after your nice TIG work! 2. I highly recommend you use a zinc aluminum primer as a base coat. Evinrude makes a very good one, (green) but so does Rustoleum. (theirs is white) Cover every inch of the lower with this, two coats, then she is ready for paint. If you don't have any drips, you won't even need to sand it, if you paint it within an hour of priming. 3. You will find that that Evinrude factory paint is one of the toughest paints you will ever come across once it cures. I mean it! I have never seen any other paint as tough as that stuff, including 2-part urethanes or epoxies. Once it cures fully, (after maybe a week or two) even gasoline or mineral spirits won't phase it. 4. For the factory paint to perform properly, you have to put it on a certain way, and it much reach a certain thickness. The method I use is as follows: First, you give it a light "dust coat" and let it flash off for only a couple of minutes. Then you give it a "wet coat", thick enough to shine, but not thick enough to run. This coat will not give full color, especially over gray primer, but must be shiny, not powdery. Get the nozzle a little closer to the work to achieve this, otherwise you get an "orange-peel" or powdery finish. After the first wet coat, let it flash off for maybe 5 minutes, and then repeat. The second wet coat should almost fill in the color. This time, give it maybe 10 minutes in warm weather, then repeat. The third wet coat should be fully colored, and make everything look smooth and brand new. You can go with a 4th coat, but generally, 3 will do a good job. After this, let the lower dry in the sun for several hours, turning it so both sides get cooked well. This makes it so you can handle it the same day, without worry of damage. After this, keep solvents away from the finish for at least a week. This stuff gets tougher and tougher, until it becomes like hard plastic after maybe two weeks or so. Like I say, I have never seen a can paint that makes such a glass-smooth finish, and is so durable once it cures. It's probably too late, but I'd recommend that you go back over that lower with a "wet coat" after perhaps a week. IF you do it after the surface has dried, but before it's fully cured, the new paint could cause the existing paint to crinkle and loosen. Get the thickness up, and you will be impressed with the quality of that paint. Love your videos!
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hey Tony, thanks for all the tips. I certainly don't have much experience with this type of work but I do really enjoy it so it's great to learn more about it. I'm pleased to hear that the Evinrude paint is tougher than I thought. I ended up putting the whole can on in the end, but I've still got the other one and haven't installed any parts in it yet so adding more coats is definitely possible. I think I need to practice a bit with getting that wet coat. You description is excellent of making it thick enough to shine, but not to thick to run. You couldn't have put it into words better! I'll also look into the zinc aluminium primer, sounds like a great way to protect against corrosion down the track. Stu
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
Stu, Glad the descriptions made sense. You help so many people, it's nice to be able to share something with you. Here is the primer I use most often: www.idealtruevalue.com/store/p/177065-15-OZ-Professional-Aluminum-Aerosol-Spray-Primer-Durable-Spray-On-Base.html When is your trip ? The big fish are here now. We had four big ones the other day, plus many, many small to medium fish. I bought a cheap $29 camera, and took video of the first big one, but the quality is terrible. Still, it gives you an idea of what it's like... kzbin.info/www/bejne/aoqYfp2gi9Oqd8U The bigger fish will be here until June, but there is always something to catch. -Tony
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the link to the primer, I'll see if I can get some and give it a try. Just watched your vid, can't wait to head out that way and meet everyone. Not sure of the exact date yet but I'll make sure it is in the boating season. ;)
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
Since using that primer, I have had excellent success with painting aluminum. Hopefully, it works well for you. Boating season can be any time, depending on your boat. In the summer, I run a center console in the salt, and my 16' aluminum boat in fresh water. Neither are pretty, but they run well, and catch fish. But both are too open to run in the winter. So last year, I cobbled together a good winter boat. It has a cabin, full enclosure, and even heat. And it's a good looking boat, for once! First look at the boat: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWOkq2utlLJlias First run on the lake: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmjKk5yGbdGcrdk Since those videos, I have slowly gotten her rigged out, and she is ready to go. So whenever you come, I should be able to get you on the water comfortably, IF you actually feel like being on the water.
@philbyalby
@philbyalby 6 жыл бұрын
G'day Tony, A bit off the subject but you seem to know your stuff and i'm hoping you might be able to help me with some advice. I have a 1994 3cyl yamaha 30hp motor which has a corrosion hole in the exhaust port of the powerhead casing which was allowing water into the bottom cylinder (yes it's stuffed the bottom crank bearing but the rest of the bearings, rods and pistons look ok). The rest of the motor is in very good condition. I'm wondering if there's a way to fix it to save me the expense of getting a new or reconditioned powerhead altogether (apparently they're rare as rockinghorse poop now..I've been quoted $1000 for one from the wrecker which is probably not viable considering it's age/value)? Would the JB Weld or similar product work or would the high temps cause it to fail in time? BTW nice fish! Cheers Mate!
@jeffreysmall5259
@jeffreysmall5259 2 жыл бұрын
Love the show, taught me a lot thanks so much.keep it coming..
@CoFRHeLLsFuRy
@CoFRHeLLsFuRy 5 жыл бұрын
Hello from Canada! Thanks a ton for vids like this, Stu. I've tried searching around home for interest level courses on 2 stroke outboards and sadly, there isn't any. Not surprising in land locked Alberta but still a bit disappointing as there are tons of 2 stroke outboards being used in the province. So it's the University of Dangar Marine for me. You've vastly increased my knowledge of the ins and outs of motors like this. Can't thank you enough.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 5 жыл бұрын
You're welcome Clayton, glad the videos are helping. :)
@Fireship1
@Fireship1 6 жыл бұрын
Fantastic job Stu. It looks great. Your tig welding skills are on point!
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Jack! :)
@10slender
@10slender 6 жыл бұрын
You never cease to amaze me. Good stuff man keep it up. Hope to see more videos.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks mate! :)
@angeloneill9955
@angeloneill9955 2 жыл бұрын
Great step by step, love it, I was wondering if you could do a series on welding different things wit your welding equipment as well as cutting with the torch, I am not a welder, don’t have time to go for learning classes, if you can go as to point out time of equipment, settings,etc. I have done some wire and torch cutting and welding but not much but without taking you from the main features if you can do som more on welding would be great. Love your repair shows!
@MrYOUNGER85
@MrYOUNGER85 5 жыл бұрын
I have used Norglass Northane 2 pack linear polyurethane , both undercoat and top coat, coverage and resistant is great, I use Perval portable spray gun, these are great, with bare metal use etch primer, first, if you haven't got any, a real mist coat of primer. Have repaired and sprayed my laser dinghy and about to spray parts of a mercury 140. Like to thank you, since finding your blog, you have helped me out a lot, ps I am a spray painter by trade and dad was a motor mechanic (since passed a way), so your videos are very help ful.l
@john7017
@john7017 6 жыл бұрын
Great video Stu!, Lower unit looks good and it will perform well. Don't sweat the small stuff!
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks John, I couldn't agree more! :)
@WilliamBates-xk6mt
@WilliamBates-xk6mt 5 жыл бұрын
Hey stu i here its hot your way -26°f here this morning in Michigan USA always good watching your videos. Have a great day be safe
@floridaredneck7798
@floridaredneck7798 6 жыл бұрын
Another well made video one think I will add is a high build primer would help fill in those small imperfections don't use bondo when under salt water for long periods of time used it on a Jon boat once looked good and lasted a few years but after a while it started to get soft and come off and it was painted over
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Yes, I think a good high build primer and bit more bogging would have made it look better. Oh to have the time!
@garyhammond6758
@garyhammond6758 4 жыл бұрын
Looks real good considering what you started with.
@Sea2Skyward
@Sea2Skyward 3 жыл бұрын
Looks pretty good I did the same thing with marine jb weld and por-15. Stoped the project to work on other thinks but a total of 2 or 3 coats of por-15 before a final sand and then the paint to color. Maybe I'll video it. Love your channel it inspires me to tackle anything
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
Stu, I also wanted to comment on how your instincts were dead correct in this video. Dead on about the filler, about which paint to use, and about hammering versus levering out bends. Good job on hammering out the bends. Cast aluminum is a funny metal. It's fairly malleable, but not very flexible. So in other words, you can beat on it all day, but if you grab it with tongs or pliers, and try to bend it- SNAP! And that heating and cooling thing sounds like a bad idea to me! If really bent at a severe angle, heating it up really helps, but still use a hammer, and something heavy to back it with. I have a 5lb sledge hammer that I use as an anvil most of the time. A tip I learned from a prop maker is to use the ball hitch of your truck to hammer out damaged props. That was one of the most helpful tips anyone has ever given me! The flat spot on top works on straight spots, and the rounded parts can even put the cup back into the blades. With some practice, it's amazing how much damage you can reverse. Boy, I'm chatty today! I think I'm just stalling, as I have a big engine swap to do today. Time to get out there and get to it. Cheers!
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hey Tony, thanks for sharing the tip about using the truck ball hitch as an anvil, I really like that idea. Ha! I totally understand stalling to avoid certain jobs. I'm just about to go back downstairs and start working on the boat. It's not so much that I'm not enjoying it, I've just had a mental block around the first bits of gluing that I need to move past. Good luck with your engine swap! :)
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks. The swap is going well. Got the old engine and wiring pulled, and the Evinrude is mounted. Tomorrow, I'll get all the wiring and controls connected, and hopefully, she will be ready for a sea trial.
@bwagenberg
@bwagenberg 6 жыл бұрын
Looking forward to the end of the boat build when you put it in the bottle. Always wondered how that is done.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
I'm not sure, but I think it involves lots of string. Oh, and a very big bottle! ;)
@fredable4631
@fredable4631 5 жыл бұрын
The lower unit came out good
@travis.stevens
@travis.stevens 6 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Looking to do mine before the season starts. Thanks Stu!
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Travis, good luck with yours! :)
@crispernator
@crispernator 6 жыл бұрын
Gday mate great video i thought at first the gearbox was of an old suzuki they were shockers for corrosion ,ive used and done most of what you showed and that epoxy 2 pack isnt cheap or were i got mine from wasnt . Another option for the skeg is a stainless cover normally used if the skeg is damaged but you have given it another good few years of life again good video for diy people .
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hi mate. Yes, I had forgotten about the epoxy when doing the cost total, but I think it was about $80 or something ridiculous. I guess it's not so bad given it lasts a long time and we will use it for many jobs, but it you were to buy some for a single job it certainly adds to the cost. I have't seen those skeg covers you mentioned. I've only seen replacement aluminium ones you can weld on.
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
Google "Skeg Guard" and you will find many. Here is a link to a typical model: www.iboats.com/shop/skeggard-with-skid-plate-99034.html These work well, in my opinion, as long as you order the correct model for the make and HP of your lower unit. You don't need much skeg to use them, only enough to attach the bolts to. I've put them on broken skegs that only had an inch or so left, and you would never know!
@crispernator
@crispernator 6 жыл бұрын
Hi i think my 50hp yam had a snapped skeg as it did have one on it seen a guy with a brand new honda who got to close to the local reef and snapped his skeg of poor bugger was nearly in tears .With the price of them you would pay to check with a local welder as how much he would charge or even if he would do it and weigh up what was best to do .
@sea69man
@sea69man 5 жыл бұрын
By the way great advice and super job on the lower unit. I really like the epoxy idea. Thanks
@Scotty3ist
@Scotty3ist 6 жыл бұрын
Great video! -Jack
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Jack.
@dnixon1974dn
@dnixon1974dn 6 жыл бұрын
Notification squad here too...lol. i dont think il ever be in a position where il be painting a outboard unit but i do love ya vids Stu..
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Darren!
@mickfisch96
@mickfisch96 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Stu, great video, I recently did the same with 1995 5HP Mercury. After priming I used an auto single pack black high temp engine enamel followed by a high temp clear coat. About the same price you indicated. It seems tough and the lower unit looks ace.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Michael. Clear coat at the end is an interesting idea. We've got plenty of it here, it would tempting to give it a try.
@brocluno01
@brocluno01 4 жыл бұрын
Nice video to reminisce about the old ways of the boat yards. Started there in 1966 and worked in marine engineering until I retired a few years ago. That was a good effort for a home repair. But for a shop job, I'd like to offer a few suggestions: 1.) After media blasting (good it was not sand, you don't need silica embedded in the surface...), I'd treat the whole with Penetrating Epoxy. Very liquid and runny, but it literally soaks into the "gray" metal that is still strong enough to resist media blast, but is now porous from electrolysis erosion. 2.) When the penetrating epoxy gets tacky as in it will hold a thumb print (about 10-minutes), slather on your 2-part epoxy filler. 3.) Once you have the part ready to paint, all fared out to both shiny metal and smoothed filler, skip the primer, wipe down with acetone, then wipe on penetrating epoxy - let it flash off and apply color. Build up layer on layer with full tack but no drying between each coat. It'll be as durable as you can do w/o full hazmat 2-part polyurethane, remote breather air, etc...
@tomjones3729
@tomjones3729 5 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for being effing real thank you for all the videos you share
@goodshipischia8601
@goodshipischia8601 4 жыл бұрын
Just watching this before I tackle my yam 8hp, done a Suzuki box the other day out of lockdown boredom, could go one of those coopers green though
@samtate1260
@samtate1260 4 жыл бұрын
I am getting ready to paint a 1956 30 hp Johnson it doesn’t have pitting sat in a basement for 50 years just little white blisters is corrosion only the paint got in in places using hvlp paint gun do I need a Hardner in the paint thanks for the videos
@geodes4762
@geodes4762 2 жыл бұрын
A good way to get some further filling of those small pits would have been to use a good two part urethane primer surfacer. PPG makes one that you can build up in multiple coats and is fairly easy to sand. Then I would have used a good automotive 2 part polyurethane to seal it all up. Just depends I guess on how much time you want to spend on getting it “perfect”.
@hobbyaddict9908
@hobbyaddict9908 6 жыл бұрын
We have a two part metal epoxy here called JB Weld. It has a rather legendary reputation for working miracles. FWIW, Been anxiously waiting for more wood boat build videos!!!
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Yes, I have heard of JB Weld but I didn't know it was similar to Devcon, I'll check it out. I'm filming more boat building tomorrow. :)
@seanbaldeschwiler1891
@seanbaldeschwiler1891 6 жыл бұрын
There is a product called Intergard 822, redhand for short. It's a two part epoxy that makes a putty. Once you make the putty you can thin it out with methanol and put it on with a paint brush. You can sand it in 24 hours. We used this technique to fill in pitting on the inside of large pumps when we were rebuilding them.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for that, I'll check it out.
@peterjacobs3940
@peterjacobs3940 4 жыл бұрын
Hey mate have a look at using Belzona to rebuild the corrosion damage and leading edges on those pitted lower units. No need for heat and you can machine the unit back to spec really easily 😉 I recommend Belzona 1111
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tip!
@christhackrsy
@christhackrsy 6 жыл бұрын
Hi not sure if you have heard of belzona, I’ve repaired gearbox cases with it, you can even form threads in it, may be able to fill these marks
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hey Chris, reading about it now it seems that Belzona, Devcon and JB Weld are all very similar products.
@TimsWorkshopTJY
@TimsWorkshopTJY 6 жыл бұрын
Cool Stu, Different subject video for sure but interesting. My merc has that black thick coating which is a special mercury marine paint. $$$ I'm sure. The paint on my outboard is still very good but the pivot arm right behind the tilt tube is really rusted up. I plan on removing the engine next off season onto a engine stand then doing a Stu on it. It's small but hard to get to for any kind of success left on the motor. I could just buy a new one but being retired again have plenty of time. Haha I see you found my Dangar picture on your'e FB page. Will be proud to join you're blackboard of honor🤓
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hey Tim, it's very common for those pivot arms to rust. I don't know why they are made from mild steel, it seems crazy. I plan to replace the one on my Honda one day and will definitely be filming it. Will have your photo up soon! :)
@vetterfellow
@vetterfellow 6 жыл бұрын
Great how to Video Stu; Thanks Mate !!.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Glad you liked it!
@durangodave
@durangodave 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video, i am planning on painting my lower as well. I am in the USA, I wonder if JB Weld or JB Waterweld would work to fill in those pits?
@SinAlameda
@SinAlameda 6 жыл бұрын
Thank you, your videos are very helpful.
@graymodeler
@graymodeler 6 жыл бұрын
When we filled the fiberglass weave of our Long Eze aircraft, we used resin filled with micro balloons. For structural bonds, we used flox (fibers) to thicken the runny resin. Epoxy would work the same and is easier to sand. We had to fill and sand every square inch.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hi William. Yes, I'll be doing plenty of that on the boat build. I've got 10 kg of micro balloons for all the fairing I'll be doing on it.
@michaeljohnston1334
@michaeljohnston1334 6 жыл бұрын
You can use Aluminum auto body filler on the outboard lower unit.
@paultrgnp
@paultrgnp 6 жыл бұрын
Hey Stu, really enjoying all your videos. I have a 1982 60 hp Johnson on contemporary model Stacey. I am keen to refurbish and revamp the old girl. Your vids are a confidence booster to do so. I wondered why you didn't use your TIG (with approp' Filler rod to fill a few of those larger cavities, knowing that the paint is eventually going to be warn off, allowing corrosion around the edges of the bog. Keep up the great work.
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
TIG'ing those deeper dimples is a dangerous endeavor! A little too much heat on those thinner spots, and you will melt a hole though the lower, and turn it into garbage. That metal epoxy will not fail when properly applied to a sand-blasted surface. Stu used the right stuff.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hi Neil, as Tony says, my big fear there was blowing a hole right through the gearbox and needing to bin it.
@paultrgnp
@paultrgnp 6 жыл бұрын
Dangar Marine Fair enough. Thanks.
@JamesSmith-sj5yi
@JamesSmith-sj5yi 6 жыл бұрын
Stu could you make a video on how to choose the correct propeller for your boat? Thanks James in Houston, Texas
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hi James, yes, that is very high on my list. I'd like to do it in collaboration with a company like SOLAS so it's going to take a bit of organising but I'm going to do it soon if I can.
@JamesSmith-oc6jc
@JamesSmith-oc6jc 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the update. James
@tallman8ft
@tallman8ft 4 жыл бұрын
🤣 15:40 im dying here !!! Looks good for what it is its better then when you started
@Chris-ei7iz
@Chris-ei7iz 2 жыл бұрын
What's the best primer and paint to use on the tall tail that's going to be in water for long period of time. And what would be the best paint and primer to use on a pontoon boat railing that will last
@motorv8N
@motorv8N 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks as alway Stu for a thoughtful vid including your usual frank self assessment for ways to improve the next go round. Question...if it's hard to keep the paint on lower units it's almost impossible to keep an aluminum prop looking nice I find. Even a few hours spinning in water will begin to scrub a home paint job off. Any tips there?
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hey mate. Unfortunately I'm not sure there is much that can be done about that. I noticed a friend bought a new Yamaha and the paint was coming off the gearbox within weeks (particularly with the shallow running we need to do around here) I presume the factories use the toughest paint available (usually some sort of powder coating) and even that won't last.
@leesmith5419
@leesmith5419 3 жыл бұрын
I learned a lot watching that video I’m fixing To repair my Johnson 100 horse lower unit now know how to do it thank you
@davedakin1607
@davedakin1607 4 жыл бұрын
Hi Great posts. Don't know if I would recommend powder coating . Powder cures around 200 C it might warp the housing. In Oz we mostly use polyester powder. Its not a great corrosion barrier and its relatively soft. If we could use epoxy or hybrid powder like in Europe they would probably be Ok as there much harder and better for corrosion but can't handle our UV Keep the Videos coming Thanks
@alext8828
@alext8828 4 жыл бұрын
Next time you're at the auto store, ask for a squeegee, we call it in the US. It's about a 3x4 inch black, hard rubber thing 3/16" thick and used for body filler. It'll work fine for epoxy. If the epoxy dries on it, you just bend it and it all peels off. Good job. Let me just add, a friend had an old car that had been painted by brush and you could hardly tell. I wouldn't even bother spraying. That paint would have filled all the tiny imperfections. Just that most paint is water-based and that is not so tuff as the old stuff.
@bobsean
@bobsean 6 жыл бұрын
Nice job! A good ole' 5 foot paint job is all anyone needs on an outboard foot. Its under the water most of the time anyways :)
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Come on Sean, give me credit, this is at least a four foot nine inch paint job. ;)
@AR1G3
@AR1G3 6 жыл бұрын
When spraying paint use a dust mask to protect your lungs. It won't filter out the gasses but if you use a high protection class dust mask it will filter out the airborne paint particles. You don't want to coat your lungs with paint ;)
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
I was actually just holding my breath and doing it in short bursts. I do have a good dust / gas mask for painting but it's so hot when you are wearing it so I only use it for really bit jobs.
@deanfulford69
@deanfulford69 6 жыл бұрын
Good job she looks mint👌
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Dean!
@bobfriedel5845
@bobfriedel5845 6 жыл бұрын
Anodes should not be affected by paint because it is attached to the lower unit via the bolt securing it. Right?
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
I know what you are saying, but every service manual I have read says to make sure they have a clean metal to metal contact.
@classiclarry88
@classiclarry88 6 жыл бұрын
Nice, not bad at all. I don't like doing cosmetic work. Function over form I say. Or is it find form in function? But this stuff is good to know. You possibly could have it powder coated, it goes on thicker and might fill in a lot of those smaller imperfections.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
I thinking about powder coating but wasn't sure how it goes when you aren't trying to coat every surface.
@bones8057
@bones8057 2 жыл бұрын
What type of welder did you use and what filler metal? I have a crack in my cavitation plate that I need to weld. Thanks
@MicskiDK
@MicskiDK 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this good video!
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks mate!
@jbw5485
@jbw5485 6 жыл бұрын
Awesome video. Why not just have a go at those pits with the welder?
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks mate. The big risk with welding is blowing a hole through the thinner section of gearbox and having to bin it.
@Chris-ei7iz
@Chris-ei7iz Жыл бұрын
How would you fix a lower unit that has a little piece broken off round part by where the propeller is and rod go in to the lower unit. It's about quarter inch or less in from the outer edge
@charlesbrewer6552
@charlesbrewer6552 Жыл бұрын
The damage on that leg looks to me like corrosion. I would bet the boat has lived in salt water on a mooring or marina with the engine tilted and the front of the leg has been touching the water, either all the time or in wave conditions. I like your repair!
@dross1492
@dross1492 4 жыл бұрын
What’s the advantage of sand-blasting? Why not sand down & fill from the original paint?
@dwayneroberts6616
@dwayneroberts6616 9 ай бұрын
Just curious could gel alex seal be used on aluminum?
@MegaBoilermaker
@MegaBoilermaker 5 жыл бұрын
You could use Devcon or Belzona Aluminium resin pastes to fill the pitted surface.
@yakaholic1237
@yakaholic1237 6 жыл бұрын
Hi love your videos very informative just wanted to now would it be ok to buy an outboard with a damaged prop or should i leave it alone thanks
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks mate. Almost every outboard I see has a damaged prop on it so I wouldn't be too worried. The soft aluminium and the rubber bushing stop the gearbox from getting damaged by any strikes.
@yakaholic1237
@yakaholic1237 6 жыл бұрын
Dangar Marine top man thanks keep up the great work
@Cess182sn
@Cess182sn 6 жыл бұрын
Stu..I'm by no means an expert but the corrosion/pitting looks a little like propeller/impeller cavitation damage ? Could this be possible?
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
It's a good point you make, cavitation can definitely cause pitting like that. I think if it was the prop it would occur more at the back than the front, but I'm 100% sure either. I like your thinking though!
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
For what it's worth, that appears to be where the paint either had poor adhesion, or got eroded, and then corrosion set in, and it wasn't dealt with for a long time. That is a good reason to touch up your paint regularly, before it gets too bad.
@sydneyharbourscenery1206
@sydneyharbourscenery1206 6 жыл бұрын
Another great vid Stu. Any time I've heard about painting metal, they always bang on about etch priming. It sounds like a real drag. It seems like you've skipped this step. Can you explain the whys and wherefores of etch priming?
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hi mate. Etch priming is no big deal, it is just using a primer paint that has a certain amount of acid in it that will etch into the metal and form a chemical bond as well as a physical bond, it isn't something you need to do manually.
@sydneyharbourscenery1206
@sydneyharbourscenery1206 6 жыл бұрын
Dangar Marine Cheers👍
@jackpatteeuw9244
@jackpatteeuw9244 6 жыл бұрын
I know it is not your expertise but I would like your comets. The two most commonly used primers are zinc chromate (that funny yellow green color) or "self etching" primer. When using "rattle can" paint, it is very important to follow the label instruction exactly for the second and any additional coats. Too soon and it will cause sages. Too late, and the previous coat will have cured and now the new coat can not truly "bond" to it.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
I'll have to look into the zinc primers, they sound perfect for aluminium. I've always gone more for an etch primer for adhesion, but below the water line zinc sounds like a good choice. You're dead right about the timing for the coats. As you say, you want to do a wet-on-wet coat to get a chemical bond rather than just a physical bond. Getting it right makes a huge difference.
@markropolis
@markropolis 6 жыл бұрын
I've acquired a 1968 65 hp Mercury 650 Thunderbolt. It runs! Would that be considered a classic worthy of restoration?
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Good question, I'm so sure about that motor, but I think anything from the 60s would have some charm to it.
@markropolis
@markropolis 6 жыл бұрын
Dangar Marine I'm working on it. Thanks for your passion and effort in sharing knowledge. It's a great hobby.
@kishidabu
@kishidabu 5 ай бұрын
aren't we supposed to use etch primer on aluminium?
@Hobbyaddict-dh3di
@Hobbyaddict-dh3di 4 жыл бұрын
Awesome video again , love this channel for all my boat questions . How big of a deal are the imperfections in the lower case? I have a 115 Merc mariner 2 stroke and it runs amazing but the lower case is a little beat up , being a rookie boater and the first boat I’ve had I don’t really have any thing to gauge the performance off , it’s an 18.3 ‘ 1996 bayliner capri. Seems to pick up and go pretty good has a nice looking wake out the back.
@CatamaranImpi
@CatamaranImpi 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video Stu - I wish that was mine you were doing :)
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Brent. We'll do a video on your outboard cowling next time you are in the Hawkesbury. :)
@gbass7328
@gbass7328 Жыл бұрын
You could try baking the primer and then the paint on. 190˚ F for 1 hour.
@jonking7969
@jonking7969 5 жыл бұрын
I am restoring my lower unit on my Tohatsu 8hp. It was very corroded. Is these a liquid solution I can dip it in to remove this. So far I cannot find a sand blaster.
@richardcranium5839
@richardcranium5839 6 жыл бұрын
good to see. that'll be beat up in a week or two anyways but you are there might as well do it. still snowing here but getting things ready.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Yeah, it won't take long to looking well loved once it goes in the river, but it was fun to do anyway.
@dynaman1600
@dynaman1600 6 жыл бұрын
Great Video it looks like a 80s 50 hp Johonson. shows how salt water corrodes an outboard.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Nick. Yes, I'm not sure how much of this is to do with the salt water and how much is to do with amount of silt and debris in the river.
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
But now that you have factory paint, you can keep it touched up, and she will never corrode again.
@garymucher9590
@garymucher9590 6 жыл бұрын
Having done this as well, I am wondering if the paint you used for the top coat was a catalyzed paint that is impervious to oils and fuels? I have never seen such paint in a rattle can like that before. Just wondering.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Yes, it is advertised and fuel and oil safe.
@markgardiner1767
@markgardiner1767 5 жыл бұрын
Another great lesson thank you👌
@doglegjake6788
@doglegjake6788 6 жыл бұрын
great video thanks for sharing !!!
@69goldtop14
@69goldtop14 3 жыл бұрын
Its abrasion making access for corrosion use all metal to fill pits
@GIJoeRay
@GIJoeRay 3 жыл бұрын
Why not Bondo to fill in the holes?
@alnbaba
@alnbaba 6 жыл бұрын
I don't know why Johnson thought white was a good color for an outboard so hard to keep it looking clean. Looking forward to the boat build vids.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
I guess it looks good in the showroom which is all you need to get the sale. I'm looking forward to getting stuck back into the boat tomorrow.
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
It depends on where you are. In muddy waters, the white stains quickly. But around here, in hot, saltwater situations, white holds up well. Darker motors tend to get faded out and get salt rhine on them, and require more washing and waxing and so on, to keep them looking good. Black shows everything! The white motors reflect more of the sun, and don't get as hot, and look better. In Florida, where it's even hotter than here, you see white Yamaha and even Mercury outboards, which is very strange to see.
@SWhite-hp5xq
@SWhite-hp5xq 4 жыл бұрын
Blue tack works well in threaded holes before painting, then remove before paint skins up too much. AND, all those pits are called speed holes.. they reduce friction in the water (similar to a golf ball in air) and add rpm hp and noticeable top end speed 😉
@MrRecall200
@MrRecall200 3 жыл бұрын
The real question is if you keep your boat docked or just put it in for day trips. If you keep it at a dock most of this paint will have fallen off in a few weeks. The primer you use matters huge but even the best rattle can primer meant for aluminum just doesn't help it. Only way to do it right is an epoxy primer and a 2 part top coat. Then it lasts. But don't get me wrong, I have every pice of gear to do it right and I just finished prettying up my 115 tower of power with those exact rattle cans from the marina. For the 60 bucks and one day I spent on it the thing looks new. But it's on a boat that rarely sees the water and is under a cover. Just don't get your hopes up and think that doing this will reset your motors paintjob to the way it was new. Still worth the quick scuff and spray once a year if you keep it in the lake. And you can make them pretty if you keep them dry most of the time. But it's just not as sturdy of a coating. Even the top of a cowling will look great when you spray it bit will be pretty weatherd after 1 year in the sun. But once again rubbing it down with scotch Brite and a 16 dollar can of paint, maybe 2 hours of work a year and it keeps it looking fresh. It's well worth using these spray cans, I do it to every boat motor I get. But be warned not to put your whole sole in to making a perfect paint job with them because it's very temporary.
@jonbwalker
@jonbwalker 4 жыл бұрын
How difficult is it to disassemble the lower unit and remove the inside mechanics before doing a job like this? Would you recommend against it for a beginner? Thanks for the great videos!
@josepeixoto3384
@josepeixoto3384 2 жыл бұрын
no need to disassemble the internals,of course, if it's the outside that gets painted
@mubasshirshaikh8637
@mubasshirshaikh8637 5 жыл бұрын
Spb sir u r genius 😎
@TimsWorkshopTJY
@TimsWorkshopTJY 4 жыл бұрын
What do you suggest for a good spray can primer for outboards?
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 4 жыл бұрын
I'd go some sort of metal etch primer to get good adhesion.
@stephenrothman6058
@stephenrothman6058 4 жыл бұрын
what would you use to paint the skeg on a Yamaha F200XB, base, color and clear coat?
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 4 жыл бұрын
Yes, good etch primer, Yamaha sell a coloured touch up paint and some clear coat wouldn't hurt on top.
@stephenrothman6058
@stephenrothman6058 4 жыл бұрын
@@DangarMarine So the etch that I see everybody mention, at least here in the U.S. is zinc chromate or zinc phosphate (various brands - Moeller, Rustoleum, Dulux). But it seems to mostly come in green. I wonder if zinc is green in solution. Does that matter when my engine color coat is Yamaha bluish grey? I'd prefer to have you handle the entire job, but I don't think my 22 foot Pathfinder would survive the trans-Pacific journey from the U.S.
@josepeixoto3384
@josepeixoto3384 2 жыл бұрын
nice... now you have some folks thinking that they have to disassemble out the gears ,bearings and shafts to paint the housing
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 2 жыл бұрын
Cool hey!
@renn9069
@renn9069 6 жыл бұрын
Hey Stu, I have a 1993 Evinrude 30HP twin to your Johnson 30. It has 125 PSI compression in both cylinders with nice smooth bores and standard (original) nice condition pistons. I have it completely torn down cleaning and installing new gaskets, t-stat, etc. Does it make sense to put new rings in for $60 US while it is apart?
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
With good compression and what sounds like not too much use I wouldn't worry about changing them.
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
Ever hear the saying, "Don't fix it, if it is not broken"? You could change the rings, but then you would have to hone the cylinders and follow a break-in procedure, and hope everything wears in together correctly. But what if it doesn't? With 125 psi in all cylinders, why mess with it? Get her back together, and out on the water!
@gregeconomeier1476
@gregeconomeier1476 6 жыл бұрын
Great video. Two things come to mind. First - Bondo! Second - the leading edges may be pitted because this area is subject to severe friction which erodes the painted surface leaving the underlying metal subject to corrosion. Done. Thanks.
@stanpatterson5033
@stanpatterson5033 6 жыл бұрын
I don't mean to knock your comment, but as an honest question... is Bondo a good product for use in underwater scenarios? I'm not a marine mech-tech so I wouldn't really know, but is Bondo something that the marine guys use? If/when the paint and/or primer gets pitted or worn thru, how will the bondo react to salt water? And lastly, if you use Bondo on the lower unit of an outboard, can your buddies and mates rightly call your boat a "Bondo buggy"? Lol.... just kidding around there....
@gregeconomeier1476
@gregeconomeier1476 6 жыл бұрын
I've used it on my lower unit and its doing OK. As far as I know, it is epoxy based so I think the properties would be the same or similar to epoxy used for other below waterline applications. Nevertheless, I don't know of any definitive answer to the underwater matter.
@stanpatterson5033
@stanpatterson5033 6 жыл бұрын
Cool. Well, I just wouldn't have thought of your standard Bondo body filler if I were forced to think about a filler product for marine use, but I suppose why not. I guess sometimes you gotta think outside the box, eh... Now that it's been brought up, I poked around on the interweb and found out that Bondo (aka 3M) has a bunch of products. And all this time, I thought all they did was autobody filler.....
@PorkBarrel.
@PorkBarrel. 6 жыл бұрын
I was thinking the same thing. How long did it take to wear the paint off to start corroding. Then how many years did it take to cause that much corrosion. The same will probably happen again. Good work Stu! Thank you.
@thilltony3362
@thilltony3362 6 жыл бұрын
Bondo is a polyurethane resin based material, with lots of filler to make it thick. It does not do well in immersion situations. It will last for awhile, if sealed well by paint, but is not ideal. Properly applied epoxy-based materials are much better, especially if they don't have "powder" fillers. JB Weld is an old product, and as stated in a comment earlier, is legendary for how durable it is. Hence, the nickname, "Liquid Steel."
@sea69man
@sea69man 5 жыл бұрын
I am restoring an inboard/outboard on an 83 Bayliner and was concerned about the paint to use on the transom collar which is partially submersed for the best part on a month or so. Any advice? Is engine paint good for this as well?
@jimcatx3090
@jimcatx3090 5 жыл бұрын
sea69man it would be a good idea to paint it amazon sells it or a marina it’s highly toxic
@brt-jn7kg
@brt-jn7kg 6 жыл бұрын
Where can I get a T- shirt? Your pretty big here in Texas!!!!
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
Hey mate, here's the link dangar-marine.myshopify.com/collections/merchandise Prices are in Australian dollars so less in US dollars.
@raymondlarmar9148
@raymondlarmar9148 6 жыл бұрын
Great Video as usual, can you please enlighten me where you get your Evinrude Paint & also spare parts from, I'm in Adelaide & am keen on doing most of the servicing on my 90hp etec myself (using your videos as guidance of course) cheers Ray.
@DangarMarine
@DangarMarine 6 жыл бұрын
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