DANGEROUS Acura Limp-Home (Part 2)

[@kellyx57]

As a retired A&P mechanic, I can tell you that a properly sized crimp style butt connector crimped with the proper, calibrated crimp tool, is very reliable. That's all that is used on modern aircraft. No soldered connections allowed. Either way, good job finding the problem!

[@stephensams709]

You are correct! I worked on avionics in the Air Force and when used correctly, the butt connector, properly crimped. was very reliable : )

[@adotintheshark4848]

@T.J. Kong it seems both ways of connecting wires have their problems. Still, solder should outlast the wire it's on if it's good quality and applied properly.

[@pookatim]

Solder connections are not permitted in marine applications either. The main problem with solder connections is they crack under vibration. It is one thing if a bad connection causes your car to malfunction but a bad connection that causes sparking or overheated wires behind panels leading to the possibility of fire is quite another.

[@edwardmerida3252]

At bmw dealership we always used splice style crimps and then their clear heat shrink over them. That’s how bmw wanted repairs to be made on wires

[@Jpilgrim30]

@@adotintheshark4848 the problem in automotive and aircraft applications isn’t the solder lasting it’s that solder connections become brittle and crack due to vibrations over time. I always prefer to do proper crimp joints on the outside of the vehicle.

[@fasteddie9475]

Ivan, that was an awsome video,retired 47 year A and P mechanic here and I think whoever repaired the wireing previously used vice grips or an cheap crimpers to crimp those connecters, if done properly they will hold. On aircraft where I worked, the complete wire had to be replaced at the next maintenance check. As always, looking forward to your next video!

[@t5ruxlee210]

In my total working career I discovered one 120volt cold joint. It was in a multi wired power distribution terminal inside some constantly used test equipment. The failure took decades to show up with no prior electrical or physical symptoms at all. Electricity is always ready "to check our work" no matter how long it takes.

[@v4vauxhall498]

Edward spot on mate , you cant blame bad repairs on idiots that use cheap Chinese butt connectors and dont know how to crimp. We would laugh at someone that used solid wire to repair automotive wiring, so what happens when you solder, wire become solid ? As you say proper way to fix is change complete wire , but as we know this is not cost effective. Butt connectors or open barrel splices is industry approved , soldering is not especially in an engine bay. Regards Joe

[@geoeconomics5629]

Channelock 909 crimper is a must

[@automotivated5934]

Hey Ivan I agree soldering with shrink tubing is probably the way to go. But with the shrink butt connectors the main issue is they are crimped using any ole crimping pliers and it doesn’t crimp correctly, for the most part. It seems if you use actual crimpers with the correct die I have had great success. However is it worth it? Either buy a torch, solder, heat shrink or a fairly expensive crimper with changeable dies for different terminals. One nice thing about those crimpers is you can do just about any terminal with the right die. I do solder when I’m mobile and have had no issues with comebacks! But at home if I’m building a complete harness/connector I crimp like factory. Great video Ivan!

[@automotivated5934]

Just wanted to be a PITA Ivan! Haha

[@kisselectronics8360]

The "twist bare wires together" splice was known back in the day as a western electric splice...Wire crimp connectors done with the correct tool are perfect, used on aircraft wiring routinely, as noted, until the next MC

[@cheath8705]

Great job finding the bad connection. Couple things to consider. One is when splicing wire and you plan to solder them, consider wrapping them together so they do not pull apart easily even if solder fails. Your method of soldering is probably good when fixing home electronics but automotive involve a lot of vibrations and heat that brings solder closer to melting point and can cause fatigued joint. But I like your idea of two alligator clips with thick wire to hold two wires together. Another is consider getting yourself a heat gun. I LOVE them over using the fire when heat shrinking tubes. Works and looks nicer that way without burning them.

[@lambodp]

100% agree on solver vs crimp connections. Yes, crimps work well in many situations with the proper crimp and tools, but the only fails I've experienced have been on crimps rather than solders. Great diag as always!

[@cyberslacker5150]

Great video!! I've had to solder corroded wires but sometimes solder doesn't stick to the wires because of the corrosion. Plus they are sometimes brittle. Butt connectors do a slightly better job on corroded wires, BUT you have to make sure to tug on the wires to try to separate them right after you crimp them. Corroded wires also might snap if they are crimped too tight. Those pre soldered butt connectors, the solder doesn't wick to the wires. Neither does soldering. You have to clean up the corrosion very well first. It's the thing. As a technician, you have to judge which is the better method of repairing wires. Sometimes you just have to replace entire corroded wires. Say it's a wrecked car with a bunch of harness damage. It's a pain to replace a lot of old corroded wires with new ones. The moral of the story: Always tug on the repaired wires no matter what kind of repair it is. And weatherize the repairs, especially if it's an exterior repair.

[@codyarizona4925]

Good work PH. I would have just ran a new wire but then would have probably missed the other broken wires 🙃. I like how you gave everyone time after the Part 1 video to comment ,befor revealing the issue. Very fun!

[@boodro2122]

You're the best automotive technician I've ever seen. For real...you're really good!

[@pssst3]

Ivan has progressed beyond being a good mechanic to being a good diagnostician. He has a solid enough idea of how things work and a careful systematic approach to work so that he's able to use diagnostic tools properly and efficiently. He's not intimidated by systems that are new to him and is young enough to still be in learning mode. I hope he never loses that . Hes not the best I've ever seen but he's better than average. If he keeps his enthusiasm and continues to progress he could become exceptional. His progress has been paralleling the development of engineering and I look forward to seeing whether he stays with with his craft and becomes a master of it or transitions fully into modern engineering.

[@baxrok2.]

That was badass Ivan. Plus you did it with the customer breathing down your neck. Extra points for that!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

lol it was fun to see the customer's reaction when I showed him the previous harness "repair" :)

[@smilingeyes1938]

I also like soldered connections better than crimp. I very much agree on adhesive-lined shrink tube for any area exposed to the elements. I've had issues with liquids wicking into standard tubing even though it appeared fully sealed.

[@adotintheshark4848]

I have a set of butt connectors that have a solder bead. After you crimp them, you heat them up with a soldering iron to melt the solder so you have a soldered and shrink-tubed connection too!

[@RobertHancock1]

I think Eric from South Main Auto has mentioned that he has had poor luck with those. The solder has to be a very low melting point to be able to melt before the shrink wrap does, which makes the solder joint fragile.

[@adotintheshark4848]

@@RobertHancock1 Interesting.

[@gillgetter3004]

Learned my lesson with butt connectors, bought a used trailer once lights weren’t working right. Started taking wiring out, butt connectors everywhere!!! Pulled all wiring, twenty seven butt connectors!!!!! Took me a day to completely rewire. Still good for six years now( no butt connectors!!!!)

[@scottschulte1157]

Ivan I'm convinced that you actually see electricity.

[@fredsalter1915]

LOL!!

[@farmerfb]

Factory crimp forces can be replicated with hydraulic crimp tools and properly sized connectors, the issue i found is anywhere I want to put one, there's no blasted room for such a big (relatively speaking) hydraulic tool anyhow except for wide open places like the battery terminals or main ground points. Yeah, glad you found the previous repair.... he just would have had more problems down the road with a bypass. Entertaining video, thank you Ivan.

[@4X1000]

Ivan, I agree fully that a solder joint is the way to go, but there are of course instances when it is not. I take the wire repair a step further and always use heat shrink tubes with glue inside and that will keep moisture out and also stiffen them up a bit and thus, they more or less act up as crimp style. I have been into electronics repair for 35 years, of course it does not make you an expert in all areas, and working for many years in the past with Forrest machines where indeed, cable repairs was a very common job. I use HellermannTyton heat shrink tubes and mostly 3:1. There is much to say about soldering, but I leave that to others. However, as always: nice videos and an excellent repair you did!

[@josecondemarin9586]

Great troubleshooting Ivan great repair also. I had used but connectors before and if you are not using the proper connector according the awg it will fail and you need to use the proper crimping tool. Solder works if you know how to properly solder. Good video. Take care Thanks 😊

[@mikep95133]

I couldn't stand a customer hovering around my shop !! I don't care how much of a rush they are in !! Dang fine work Ivan !!!

[@MartinE63]

Good diagnosis. Every single wire connector on cars produced in the past four decades or more uses nothing but crimp connectors. Done properly they are less likely to fail than any other method. The emphasis being on done properly, the right crimp terminal, the right size wire, the right crimping tool (that is also calibrated) with seals and optionally grease to exclude moisture. Soldering works but it can easily introduce a stress point between the soldered and unsoldered area that can later fail due to vibration. Heat shrinking with ‘inert’ hot air is also better than using a naked flame.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yes, factory crimps are usually very reliable (except GM battery terminals LOL!) However for repairs, it is near impossible to reproduce a factory crimp. Therefore solder and shrink wrap is the method of choice. The shrink wrap gives the joint good mechanical integrity to prevent vibration stress cracks in the future. Of course, the harness should also be properly routed to reduce unnecessary strain on the wires themselves.

[@davemcgaffney9401]

If you add a wiring extension of the same gauge and insulation (to remove pulling stress) so that the repaired wiring matches the length of the other wires in the harness... Use

[@MTLeopold]

@@questioning3388 Sounds like a video idea for project farm. Everyone go over there and spam him with a suggestion!

[@Garth2011]

Maybe the hot air is best however, there seems to be nothing on the market that controls the hot air into a small diameter enough and flow so it doesn't cause collateral damage to other wires or items when working in tight spaces.

[@sewing1243]

Re: Vibration Way back in time when I went through the US Navy's Micro-Miniature repair course (6 weeks of soldering) we were trained to use a tool (looked like a pair tweezers that clamped around the wire next to the terminal and wicked the heat away so the solder couldn't flow past it and was made for each gauge of wire) that whenever stranded wire was soldered to a terminal, it stopped solder from flowing up the wire into the insulation from terminal the wire was being attached to specifically to prevent the wire breaking at that termination due to vibration or movement of the rigid wire.

[@brianboyd9891]

I've watched you become a great mechanic....good job man

[@stigonutube]

wow, Good tracking down and Fix There Ivan.

[@mole2410]

You are an automotive detective gathering all the evidence. Always enjoy your diagnosis.

[@StuReedy]

I admire your troubleshooting skills and your integrity! You rock!

[@aldrinalmario1513]

Awesome diagnosis and fix Ivan! Interesting that one of the butt connectors was on the suspect wire, so most likely a fix for the same was done before hand though not the best. Agree, I'm more comfortable soldering wires as compared to crimp on connectors, specifically for smaller gauge wires. But I do use crimp on connectors for thicker wires in a pinch. Cheers!

[@russellhltn1396]

The key to crimping is the right crimp tool. There's far too many cheap ones out there. The good ones are expensive. Usually have a ratchet and won't let go until you crimp all the way. That prevents you from doing an "almost' crimp. They also apply a lot more pressure then the typical plyer type.

[@AP9311]

Excellent job on Keith tuck test, always works lol. Great job with bad wire!! Great video and I've done butt connectors on few cars. With proper crimping tool! Sometimes i do solder joint too. I rebuilt a bench grinder with bad wires, i yanked all them out and put fresh wires in. I used ring or open ring connectors with heat shrinks! I did it and it looks so professionally done. I was happy with it. It still works great!

[@mrsargemeister]

Great job. Its amazing how complicated shoddy repair work can make things in an already very complicated world. I'm good..but not that good sorting out problems caused by other people.

[@MR.KNOWITALL1982]

nice work Ivan!! Call Mr. Oxidize and tell him what you found. Actually, you better not. He has been repairing vehicles for over 25 years and using pinkies. you might offend him:) You are absolutely right about wiring repairs!!!

[@bobnashnash7965]

Totally agree, solder and heat shrink is the best joint.

[@pingpong9656]

I had breaks in the the wire going to a front wheel speed sensor - fixed them all with solder joints. Zero problems since and this wire moves every time wheel turns. Solder + heat shrink is good in my book and slim too! Stood the test of time.

[@mikechiodetti4482]

I've done MANY repairs like you've done here with solder and shrink tube. Only regret was not having liquid tape as way to thoroughly seal the repair. You don't have comebacks with this procedure. With crimp splices, oh ya, there's comebacks! When others tell me about the solder/shrink tube repairs that didn't work/needed replacement and were done with crimps, I says, "show me the failed parts!" They can't! I've also done crimp AND solder joints using exposed crimps and shrink tube over the crimp and solder joint. A very strong mechanical AND electrical repair. Good diagnosis and repair Ivan!

[@garysgarage2118]

Good diagnostic work. You could see in the video the connectors were not crimped properly. Correct tool leaves an indent. Connector was not the issue just guy who installed them.

[@Jpilgrim30]

The problem isn’t the crimp connections it’s the people doing them improperly. It’s actually preferred in this application it just needs to be done properly.

[@Cheepchipsable]

Looks like lot of dust and dirt, probably water had gotten into the harness there.

[@craiggoodwin9704]

Wow, that was incredible! Just put my car back together using butt connectors. Now you have me thinking about that, Maybe I'll change them in the Spring. Awesome video. Thanks for Sharing!

[@weshawkins7165]

Good video Ivan, good diagnosis. I agree with you on the soldering of connections. I never use crimp on connectors. I use to work for a guy that built high end hotrods do the complete wiring systems on the cars, everything was soldered.

[@kadillacdeville]

Great troubleshooting And great repair. I've done hundreds of butt connector repairs and found a proper heat gun is the way to go. Putting open flame to these thin wires makes me cringe.

[@htownblue11]

Yet once more, Ivan proves the value of a skilled diagnostician. This man has turned his skills into an art form at this point, and we just sit back and watch him paint….

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Like Bob Ross?

[@carlswift1130]

Ivan, I suggest that you consider acquiring a bottle of electronic soldering paste (flux). When soldering older (untinned) copper wires, I apply a tiny dab of paste to the bare wires with a round wooden toothpick. The extra soldering paste will penetrate the oxide on the wires better than the core in the solder. The solder will flow better and make a more secure connection. I like GC Electronics P/N 10-1207.

[@alward9901]

Hi Ivan. That was a great pain in the butt connector . 👍🇺🇸🇨🇦

[@666norouz]

You are AMAZING man, your expertise with scan tool is great.

[@Mountain-Man-3000]

When I'm soldering around a bundle of wires like that and have to heat the shrink tube, I just use some plain old tin foil to protect the other wires. Works well for me. 👍

[@bruceirvine3962]

Ivan, you demonstrate master craftmanship! Take care of yourself and stay healthy!

[@markb3129]

Here i am having trouble adding mirrors with puddle lights on my 2000 chevy silverado and they either stay on all the time or won't come on. Ivan you're the Best at electrical problems I've seen, keep up the great videos!!!!. ✌

[@Ram14250]

Great video Ivan! I agree... nothing better than OEM sensors or parts if you can help it.

[@hpelisr]

Yes well done, that was a tough one. Patients pays off.

[@andrewvillanueva3722]

Awesome job Ivan. I used the connection with solder in the middle it melts the solder around both wires and it heat wraps

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

Ivan I Agree, As installer of aftermarket equipment, Minimize Crimp Connectors to cabin areas only. For high vibration, uncontrolled environment locations, use only Solder and Heat Shrink.

[@themechanic6117]

If I'm not soldering I use bare crimp connectors and always put my own heat shrink over the connections. So far I've had zero come backs. I've also seen those butt connectors fail just like that in your video.

[@Garth2011]

Nice job...they make butt connectors that have the sealant in them and a solder joint. Likely requires some experience to use them but still, in a multiple wire repair job all in the same location in a loom like this one, Ivan's proven solder process is likely the better of them all due to the density and amount of wiring patching needed all in one spot.

[@precisionautodiagnosticsre8109]

Ivan, I do not know how you work in such a methodical manner with the customer standing there. I Lose all thought process, direction and everything when I go and do a diag at someone's home and they decide they want to stand there and watch me. thumbs up to you my brother, for always doing your due diligence and finding the root cause. As Eric O says test never guess....

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

It really depends on the customer. I've had a few that couldn't stop talking so I politely say please come back later to pick up your car 😂

[@precisionautodiagnosticsre8109]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I will keep that in mind for the future. I mostly do mobile stuff as I have no garage..

[@nellyxavier8923]

Boom!!!! Beautiful work I just learned there. Thank you Ivan.

[@kastooMcFry]

"Just shrink tube required" - nice job, Ivan.

[@tomvleeuwen]

I agree that soldering with heat shrink never fails, but that's only true for road vehicles. If you have a race car, especially single cylinder, the soldered wires will simply break from vibrations. I've had that a few times, and loosing a race because of a broken wire is frustrating to say the least. Since then I only use crimp connectors with proper tools. On road vehicles, soldered wires never fail because there is MUCH less vibration and it beats having a ton of different crimp tools.

[@patrickbedroske9392]

Oh man, what is Eric from SMA going to have to say about the butt connectors he uses all the time!? lol!

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing job ivan :-D Ive never liked any crimp connections, i always clean the copper wire and twist, then solder. Dam i forgot to put the heatshrink on lol. Years ago I did all the wires on a old hatchback car, every wire was snapped or snapping as they passed through the door to body gator. I also extended each wire so they could move about easier. It never failed again for the life of the car. Wonderful stuff heatshrink :-D

[@quicktastic]

Most all of the connectors to the various components are crimped on. If properly crimped with quality parts, the wire will break before it will pull out. These were obviously poorly done. Ivan did a proper job soldering, but I've seen plenty of bad jobs at soldering. Ends not clean, not enough wire, never got the wire hot enough (crummy soldering iron or not being patient and letting it heat up), wires not lined up right. Lots to go wrong with soldering, but works really well when done correctly. I guess that is true with just about anything and everything.

[@Sandmansa]

I've had quite a few times where I would inspect wires with a faulty connection. And they may look perfectly fine. That is until you give them a solid tug or two and they pop right out. I've had times where I found wires corroded so bad inside the insulation because it had a hole in it from a pinch or probe. Now I've used shrink butt connectors many times and never had one fail before. But, you have to test them before you shrink them because sometimes you won't get a good crimp. Good find though. I probably would have opened up that entire stretch of harness until I found it.

[@Walczyk]

wow! those wire holders look incredible for soldering

[@greg778123]

❤️🎥 Failed but splices are pretty common with those heat shrink ones you can’t get a good crimp on unless you get uninstalled buts and heat shrink over it but then solder is definitely the better fix

[@Drives31forhalo]

I would argue that well done crimps can be just as reliable as well done solder joints. I used to have tons of issues with crimps pulling out like you did, but I've had much more success after buying a MUCH better crimper than your standard stripper / crimper combo tool. I still prefer to solder because I still get poor crimps every now and then, but I wouldn't say all crimps are bad just because you encountered some poorly done crimps.

[@blake8297]

I too have always preferred the good ol solder and triple layer lined marine shrink wrap. Never worked on a plane, so I really dont care what they have.

[@2nickles647]

Ivan. In a pinch when I don't have my soldering tools with me. I use a metal butt connectors with a heat shrink. I normally prefer to use soldering for my joints. I rarely use butt connectors. I carry them for emergencies.

[@roxanneabbott8424]

Much clearer picture and great find in the harness!!

[@greg123294]

Just a tip from someone in the it dept. Just use the tip of your iron to melt the heat shrink helps save from burning wires hope it helps^^

[@egn83b]

When i watched this i was thinking about all the typical honda problems i have seen and this one is common with cars people had installed aftermarket devices on like gps and alarms. They always leave a mess of nicked or cut wires. Most honda harnesses run flawless except for grounds and battery cables.

[@THEDRAGONBOOSTER8]

Totally agree, the good old solder is best..

[@gary5172]

Butt connectors get atmosphere and moisture and will oxidize, whereas solder surrounds and protect the copper from oxidation.

[@billneu9520]

Hi Ivan just like plumbing Solder on a copper pipe for 100 years or more Bill N LI NY

[@matthewzoelle9149]

Butt connectors are great for road side fixes but they do tent to fail after a few years. Sodder connections do fail as well, there are a few trks in the 17-20 year old range that the sodder connections rotted out on and failed. If done right their is no doubt the sodder connection will last longer no don’t but I do think butt connections have their place too. The heat shrink ones at least. By the way, love your videos, I do t understand what you are not in the million subscriber range.

[@2509498788]

There's only a certain type of person that can do this kind of work. You are one of them,,

[@ourv9603]

RE : DANGEROUS LIMP HOME MODE... We bought a 2003 Wrangler new. I was great. BIT, after we had it a few years it did this- We would pull into the turn lane & wait for our light. When our light turned, we would begin our turn & once in the middle of the intersection, the engine would stall! The dealer fixed it but it made for several tense minutes. !

[@809nel]

In the remote control world we only use soldering for everything, nothing holds up like it for crazy jumps, crashes and anything else you can think of :)

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

I promise not to use butt connectors! Great diag & repair as always.

[@brianw8963]

Nice work as always Ivan!👍

[@thebaldmechanichardatheari1124]

Funny someone was there before. I have also come across the problem. Good 👍 fix

[@alvydasurbonas8913]

those connectors were either to large for the wire or just crimped with improper tool. and you can do pull test to see it will hold

[@shawnwimberly9294]

A seam ripper works well for opening up those harnesses.

[@agmc4me]

Another great job.

[@mitchellroberson]

Love the discussion on soldier vs crimp. I have done both. And spent a ton of time researching both. And have seen failures of both. Met people that are passionate about each. But always a good discussion

[@AJ-wj9ij]

Fixed right first time good job Ivan

[@petermartinez5573]

Ivan to the rescue. If it's worth doing it's worth doing right.

[@josephwash109]

I've always preferred to do soldered connections whenever possible. The only exception is when it's a tight area where I don't have good access. In those cases, I'll use crimp connectors. Sure, it takes longer, but soldered joints should never experience failure again. I see a lot of people who are offended by not recommending crimp type connectors. Yes, it is true that just about every connector in a vehicle has crimped connectors. However, it's done that way for the time and cost savings only. If they came crimped and soldered from the factory, it's likely the connections would never fail for the life of the vehicle, but that increases production time and cost for each harness. General Motors recommends crimping and soldering terminals in connectors whenever they are replaced (if you replace individual terminals instead of the entire connector). I've also been underneath Mercedes-Benz vehicles and I noticed that they crimp and solder the braided ground straps. That shows me they acknowledge that crimping and soldering is the best way to make a connection. Done properly, these joints provide a mechanical and a chemical bond.

[@JOMaMa..]

Wrong answer. Solder is by far cheaper than crimp connectors. The reason solder is not used for mechanical retention of wiring is because the solder joint cracks in a dynamic environment.Solder is an excellent promoter of electron flow in an electrical circuit. Solder has poor mechanical retention of wiring in a dynamic environment. It works great at home stereo wiring and fails in dynamic environment specially engine compartments

[@deetee3153]

Nice diagnosis and repair Ivan 👍

[@russellstephan6844]

After dozens and dozens of electrical repairs, modifications, and accessory installations on street vehicles and all-weather power sports equipment (read dirt bikes), which remain in the stable for decades, I have never had a solder, seal, and shrink wrap connection fail. It's the *only* way to guaranty the work for the service life of the vehicle. FYI, if you only have standard heat shrink tubing on-hand, a dab of liquid electrical tape and/or dielectric grease prior to sliding the heat shrink tubing in-place adds serious moisture protection to the joint.

[@russellstephan6844]

You can disagree all you want to and continue to solve the problem your way. I'm not going to argue with you. However, nothing succeeds like success and I've been successful with my repairs for more than four decades. The dirt bikes see seriously brutal duty cycles of mud, stream-crossings, and general operational environmental abuse all followed up with power washing at the end of the weekend's riding. I live in the practical world... I'm not stocking up on all manner of properly sized crimp connectors for DIY work. Maybe if I ran a production shop due to the increase in throughput? But, until then, I'll continue to work with what works for me.

[@notsureigaf]

@@russellstephan6844 you say in one breath "I'm not going to argue with you" but in another you say in bold that soldering is the only way to guarantee the work will last forever, which is verifiably false. A properly done crimp and seal will last as long as properly done soldering, if not longer.

[@MarcHord-mk5ff]

It’s greasy you got it. But as a diy guy I bet he fixed it for a good while.

[@lovetolearn5253]

I actually had a similar issue happen. I used the heat shrink but connectors and 2 years later the car came back, 2 of the 5 had issues. Now I soldier everything unless I can't get to it for some reason. I've had about 85% success rate with heat shrink but connectors but 100% with solder. So I just started soldering everything why risk a comeback.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great statistics! Usually it's easier to get into tight spots with a soldering iron than a bulky crimping tool :)

[@bombardier3qtrlbpsi]

Butt why!😆😆 Great job as usual.

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

Nice find and repair Ivan! Maybe this car was in a collision at some point?

[@tinkerwest]

I must be crimping mine correctly because the few times I've had to "undo" a crimp for any reason (cross wire, misstep, etc.), it never freaking pulls off and I wind up cutting it to remove. Whomever did those splices was cocky/careless.

[@fredflintstone8048]

Not all crimping tools are created equal. The shape is very important. Those crimpers that merely 'flatten' the crimp connector are the absolute worst. Always use the type with a crimp 'pin' that creates an indent in the crimp which also pulls the rest of the connector tight against the wire. A well make crimp connection will NOT allow you to pull the wire out. The other important factor is the proper size of the crimper relative to the wire gauge size of the connector, as well as the proper amount of pressure. It's true you cannot go wrong with a solder joint PROVIDED that it's a quality joint, not a cold solder joint, and done with a good grade of solder and the wire cleaned properly. If there happens to be corrosion on the copper it's best to strip back to the point where there's no corrosion.

[@JohnFT3414]

Don't crimp anything, use a solid physical connection with solder and shrink tubing!

[@jimhaines8370]

Crimp solder moisture proof heat shrink I can’t remember ever seeing a Honda wiring harness problem that was not an outside problem like a mouse or crash so as you saw who knows why it was attacked

[@Graham_Wideman]

Dangerous Acura Episode 2: Pain in the butt connector!

[@pz6316]

I'm really suprised his gave you such a hard time seems like your wheelhouse by the way there were no crimp connecters when I started working on cars or computers for that matter

[@steveo6631]

Top men in the field of electronics have told me to never solder anything that hasn't had flux applied first.... Other guys say crimp and shrink seal is a viable choice... What to do, what to do...????

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Try it for yourself and see what works best :)

[@_RiseAgainst]

Ivan you don't have to defend solder joints over butt connectors. I have started using the solder iron to shrink the heat wrap, any problems with this? It seems like the safer way.

[@rodmeisterful]

Another great one!

[@kennethstrait6391]

yep,mad russian for the win! i love too watch you work.

[@fire7765]

Good job

[@mikefoehr235]

Knowing that Honda and Toyota use soy based insulation on their wiring, my bet is rodent damage was the cause of the damaged wiring. Ivan, you are nobodies fool for sure. Great repair.