Mopar Gauge Problems Solved - Dead Lights, Gauge Testing And More For This 1968 Plymouth Barracuda

[@Rielyjones85]

This video is an example of why I enjoy your channel so much. You don’t just do revivals. We get engine builds, tuning, rear end swaps, electrical work, etc. Keep up the great work!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thanks! Happy to do it.

[@danmcintyre9961]

Good video, I'm enjoying the Notchback series. Looking forward to the engine video.

[@jeffrowlette]

I've had my 69 Notch-Back Barracuda dash out twice.....so not fun!!!!!! You do nice work!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thanks! Yeah... it's a bit of a job.

[@gavinmclaren9416]

Awesome car. I love the A-body Barracudas and this is a great channel for Mopar fans. I am very fussy about automotive wiring though. When I was in high school, I got a job working (under close supervision) on aircraft wiring harnesses. I learned A LOT about what makes a good, reliable connection. My boss and co-workers were ex-RAF and RCAF avionics experts and taught me how to properly solder and crimp wires, among other things. I have a few observations, as follows: All of the '60s and '70s cars I have looked at have barely adequate wiring from the factory. There are some bad mistakes, like the Mopar ammeter wiring that often becomes a fire hazard as the cars age, but generally as long as the factory wiring is intact it will usually fail in a safe manner and stuff will just stop working. I have rebuilt numerous harnesses and have never, ever seen modifications or repairs done that even meets the low, production line standard of '60s-'70s cars. The typical situation is a failure prone botch job that is also sometimes a fire hazard. Trailer wiring style crimp connectors are dreadful. They often do not provide a good connection, require heat-shrink tubing to be properly insulated, and are difficult to crimp adequately without a ratchet crimper. I would never use them, particularly if they reside in an inaccessible place, like underneath a dashboard. Of all the readily available wire connection systems out there, I like the Delphi Weatherpack system the best. The connectors are available in various sizes and number of conductors for all common wire gauges from #22 to #10, and there is a specific ratchet crimper that will provide a sound connection. There is plenty of literature online as to how to properly assemble a Weatherpack connection, and the result, if properly executed, is bulletproof and will outlast the car. A good crimp connection should be stronger than the wire, and you should not be able to separate the connector from the wire with ordinary human strength. This strength of crimp is possible to obtain with a pair of cheap crimpers, but it requires extraordinary skill to do so on a repeatable basis. A good set of ratchet crimpers is not cheap (budget $150-$200), but they are calibrated to produce an optimum crimp every time and do so. I am not generally a fan of soldered connections because most people don't know how to make a clean, bright connection. It takes a surprising amount of power to quickly heat a fluxed joint between typical automotive wire gauges and get the solder to flow adequately into the wire strands. A low power soldering iron will eventually heat the wires up enough to melt the solder, but by then the flux has usually dissipated and the nearby insulation is cooked and maybe burning. For a 14 gauge wire connection, it should take less than a second to make the joint. Another problem is that the residue flux is rarely, if ever, cleaned away from the completed joint. This eventually will lead to corrosion and failure of the wires. This can even happen with rosin core electronic solder. For these reasons, I usually limit soldering in automotive applications to very specific applications, such as ground star connections, and take pains with them. A small butane-powered iron is ideal for tight spots, and I have an old-school sheetmetal copper soldering iron for bench work. I never use cheap electrical tape on any connections outside of a side-of-the-road failure. Good quality electrical tape is designed so that the adhesive will eventually harden into a permanent structure. This is OK as long as it is used per the manufacturer's conditions. This type of tape is quite expensive, and generally, I use heat shrink tubing in it's place. Non-adhesive tape can be used to hold a wiring harness together, but it requires some skill to weave and tie it off properly. Heat shrink tubing is available in several grades. Generally the more it shrinks, the thinner it is, so some experimentation is helpful to find an optimum. I often use it doubled or tripled up to provide a good, well-insulated seal. I always use a heat gun for shrinking it. Heat guns are cheap, and I have a cordless one for tight spaces. I hope the above provides someone with some tips I have learned over many years of automotive (and general) wiring experience. It is easy to do a good job with a little knowledge and the right equipment. The biggest investment is usually the crimpers, and the satisfaction of seeing how easy it is to make an excellent connection every time was well worth it for me.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

We’re not working on aircrafts here - and let us all be thankful for that. I have demonstrated my actual wiring capabilities properly on this channel many times. But I am not willing to reengineer the ridiculous setup some “professional” attached to this gauge cluster.

[@valleywoodstudio7345]

love seeing interior stuff - so much focus on engines but the environment we sit in gets forgotten in a lot of content. I like a cool interior 👍

[@BigBoxDodge2020]

Thanks, Jamie. Some of the problems I'm having with my 73 Dodge. Power wagon are covered in this show. So Thanks very much.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome! Happy to help!

[@trojan440]

I like the multi purpose flannel shirt. Nice work pad on bench and good for keeping Jamie warm and cozy.😊

[@Darryl-69SE]

Love the sat videos and looking forward to Sunday night!

[@JustanOlGuy]

Same!

[@idaholineman5788]

Love it! I found the perfect tool for polishing up the contacts on the gauge board for the bulbs and the gauge sender nuts. It’s a pen looking thing that has fiberglass strands poking out of the end. It’s made for cleaning out and sanding inside of paint chips on a hood before spot repair. Puts a nice polish on the board and is much nicer than attacking it with a chunk of scotch brite.

[@widesky713]

Great last line to the video. Ooooo, barracuda. Great song, great cars. Perfect cranked up in 1977.

[@pcbullets8726]

The new tach looks great! It will be nice to see that broken in when the engine is fixed!

[@timbarry5080]

Lol.. nice nod to the song "barracuda" at the end

[@leerindal8980]

Funny good timing . . . I pulled my 67 Barracuda dash out a few months ago to work on this winter.

[@rong4189]

Good thing you fixed that dash so it didn’t burn, burn, burn, burn, burn to the wick.

[@keithmckibben8774]

Thanks Jamie, amazingly timely video. I just took the dash out of a new-to-me 67 Belvedere because the headlights weren't working and the fuel and temperature gauges showed unreliable levels. I too got a headlight switch from the stock in the local auto parts store, for $20. I think you covered just about everything I need to do before I put the cluster back in. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

[@DratsumX]

Ah sweet! I bought all new dash lights for the 69 Barracuda and this is exactly the video I need.

[@MikesMoparShop]

Great job Jamie!!! Those clusters are a bear to get in and out. When I did mine, I had to do a bit of soldering due to broken pins on the round plug, I soldered in brass brads in place of the broken ones.

[@daveclemons1225]

Great video on explaining wiring issues pertaining to the dash of one of my favorite cars. Sure like this car. Your Demon is awesome! Thank you for making this video! Looking forward to seeing you back working on getting it driving down the road!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you!

[@JeffMiletich]

It's Saturday , 11:28 AM & I was just about to take a nap, but then I get notifications that You And Tom have dropped videos, so I have to watch. I hope you're pleased with yourselves...

[@OlderNotNecesarilyWiser]

Great job Jamie, I've had dashboard electronics drive me crazy!

[@timbarry5080]

I'm glad you posted a video. I was just gonna go to an older one to say that I just received a jazzy black t-shirt that says "dead dodge garage " on it.. it even looks to have the front of an old power wagon on there! Awesome

[@jeffrowlette]

Nice Heart quote!

[@tomlohan4741]

Enjoyed the post I had forgotten about the light switch good stuff!

[@Mclovingarage]

That tach is gorgeous! Really that whole dash is amazing. Wish new cars were that sexy. Kinda tired of all the digital stuff. Much prefer the analog. Thanks for the tips and tricks on dash electrical!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

They just don't make 'em like they used to... and this dash is one of the sweetest ever made in my opinion.

[@OdySlim]

I use De-Ox it on old electrical items like rheostats. It brings them right back to life.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Good stuff!

[@romannumeral5547]

Love that car! There are so many mechanics that wouldn't touch any electrical problem except maybe changing the battery 😂. Those are some mad skills Jamie.

[@ThisValiantAdventure]

Loving all the Notchback content. :) My brain was so tired from today’s events that it took entirely too long to recognize the “Barracuda” lyrics. But we got there in the end!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nailed it. Haha. Thanks!

[@ThisValiantAdventure]

@, oh! Forgot to say I love the Dart grill on the ‘cuda. While I’m personally a fan of the distinct grill of the ‘66 Valiants/Barracudas, that Dart grill from the same year is smooth. Love it.

[@Coronetguy]

Nice, many more questions answered!

[@Coronetguy]

Also, amazing job Jamie! I can’t wait to use them in action!!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thanks!

[@kart70]

Thanks for the Rally gauge video! I was wondering where the limiter was and why the gas gauge had 3 terminals.

[@MoparJimmy]

Great video Jamie, thanks

[@allanperryman388]

Dash 101, very detailed. thanks Jamie

[@blahblah4125]

Your skillz are next level Jamie. Bravo buddy! The tach was a great idea. Can't believe that incredibally silly, crappy, and annoying blank gauge was put in from the factory.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

If you didn’t pay the toll, you didn’t get a tach… thanks!

[@robertmayer8455]

Thanks!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you!

[@1cargaragenyc]

Excellent material Jamie...Thank You

[@milldog1969]

Love the vids u drop. Very educational to the diy guys.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Happy to do it! Thanks!

[@ricksaint2000]

Thank you Jamie

[@Rvshadow1964]

This is even more fun when the original harness caught fire. Ended up not even using original gauges. It's a 84 B350 so I wasn't worried about keeping it original.

[@BarnyardNewton]

Love the car. Sweet notchback. Mopar green bean ….. Jade Green? Good job on the cluster. Tricky…… I’ve never had an easy job in any car, vintage or modern, messing around with electrics behind the dash. It’s like they never expect anything will ever go wrong back there.

[@KathleenMurray-gi5yf]

Excellent video 👍if you get a chance for questions what brand test light or website that you got it from ..please enjoy your weekend when you get to it

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Way more than a test light - that’s a Power Probe III. Amazing tool, highly recommend.

[@JayMills-z3f]

That is a pretty car!

[@HelpingHand-ic4wt]

FoMoCo - to get a trip odometer in the small-sporty class in 1968, one needs to leap past Mustang for Cougar, and then opt for the XR7 trim package at $3209. At your Chrysler Plymouth dealer, the $2,512 Barracuda can be had with the Rallye Cluster, $6, and to move it into XR7 territory, another $51 for the tachometer, $2569 total, a $640 savings, 20% less than XR7. A couple of other options would need to be added to the Barracuda to match the XR7 equipment list but the focus of my abstract relates to trip odometers and tachometers in this video.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Very interesting comparison! Unrelated… I really like those Cougars.

[@HelpingHand-ic4wt]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I had a beat '68 XR7 back in the 70s. It had numb power steering, it pogo sticked its way along on it's modified macpherson struts, the cheap leather they used was in shreads, the TiltAway column worked for about 2 weeks after I "fixed it". But the door latch had a freshly lubed feel every time you opened the door. My uncle had one new, I decided I'd just ride on that memory and bought a '71 300 2dr with floor mounted cassette and automatic lights :) BTW, GM never even offered trip odoms in either Cam/bird in '68.

[@rennkafer13]

@@HelpingHand-ic4wt Cougars did not have MacPherson struts, they just mounted the spring/shock above the upper arm. They still have an upper/lower arm with a spindle between, which MacPherson strut suspensions don't.

[@HelpingHand-ic4wt]

@@rennkafer13 I appreciate that, I haven't paid much mind to that side of the street for a long time. I think that's where I got the "modified" part from, it may have been someone being snide about the blue oval. :)

[@michaelseymour3534]

Great to know you're using your head. I kinda figured so all along.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

😅

[@gregpanek523]

I saw all those blade connections and cringed. I have a 77 Dodge van that the base of the pins in the circuit board rotted off and I was trying to decide how to fix it. Something on the line of how this one was fixed. I couldn't bring myself to do that. I bought another dash for not cheap and when it arrived, the same problem was developing on it. After researching the internet I found a company in Canada that makes a repo circuit board, they also make instrument decales. The circuit board wasn't cheap, a little over $300. But in the long-run, it's worth it, It looks to be higher quality than the factory made them. It fits perfect and the original circular connector and everything else fit perfectly. End result better than factory new! Then while I was at it, I decided to address Chrysler's biggest shortcomming, The amp gauge. the sight of melted plastic was beyond familiar. So I got to work googling. The instrument cluster is similure to the Cuda you're working on, only the amp guage is on the bottom on the van, hanging upsidedown. I got busy on google and found that the Mini Cooper has upsidedown guages. So I bought a replacement Mini Cooper Voltmeter. when I got it, I took it out of it's housing. did a little modification, made an extended black plastic dial backing for it glued to the back of the Cooper dial face so it looked more natural. Then the Mini Cooper has a white needle instead of orange. Went to Home Depot, bought a spraycan of floresent orange paint. protected the dialface with some paper between the needle and dialfaceand sprayed the needle. Then I sprayed the rest of them since they were faded. all came out great! then as I drilled new holes for the terminal which also went through the new printed circuit. Just be careful not to drill through any circuitry. I tapped into the voltage reducer as you did for the tach to power the volt meter. Also, I got a inline circuitbreaker from under a dashboard of a 1990s Peterbuilt truck to connect together the 10 guage wires that went to that amp gauge, Insulated all bare connections and secured it. End result, it all works great, cuircute protected and I don't have to worry about the dash catching on fire, and if you didn't already know it, you'd never know the gauge was switched.

[@michaelstrafello7346]

I feel your pain. At one time I worked doing fleet repair on some really old Grummans most of the switches were replaced with toggle switches, by "sir hack a lot"and the same color red wire on almost every circuit, with of course using 6 inch segments all spliced together to make a 3 foot section argh

[@NathansMoparGarage]

Nice except for the previous hack job. I would prefer shrink wrap over that tape though.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I *completely* agree. But those connections have to be taken apart every single time the cluster is removed. If I cover those connections with heat shrink, it will have to be cut off next time. And that's a big pain.

[@wrenched90405]

nice vid - that dash sure seemed like a mother-cluster :)

[@timbarry5080]

My d300 seems to have the same headlight switch. It wasn't working. I actually bent the metal tabs out of the way and disassembled it (3 times). Once I cleaned the gak out of it a couple times, and lubed it, it works again

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It turns out the tab in this one was actually broken, not bent. I found the wiper piece later but apparently didn’t get a clip of that.

[@timbarry5080]

@DeadDodgeGarage I can't believe I was able to bend and rebend them a few times without breaking them. I thought for sure I'd never get it back together once the spring popped out.

[@beljames1563]

So the main message I got is when using your pokey bits be sure to ground your clusters. Ok, ok I may be a bit confused, admittedly.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Haaahaha. You're not far off.

[@jackschmidt6157]

Informative

[@fecustom]

Nice work on the dash and video! On the 68s is the standard dash/gauge cluster the same as the 68 Valiant?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

No - with one small exception. Valiant got the basic dash. Only Barracuda got this dash for '67-69, then Duster 340, Swinger 340 and then Demon 340 '70-'71 got them. Having said that, there actually were apparently a small number of cheapo Valiants built with the Barracuda's Rallye dash. I don't remember why that was, but I've seen pictures of one.

[@johng6606]

I got fed up with 1960's Plymouth wiring limits not telling you the working state of your engine....and so designed/engineered a dash only using VDO separate gauges and I'm almost finished installing on my 1969 fast back. M& L wiring has been instrumental in helping me finish it. JWG

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Cool!

[@dantupper1784]

That speedometer area wiring was...interesting My brother bought a split windshield VW Bus wired w/extention cord wiring. Knowing that mess would make me go full-on ocd to fix it properly. Dammit.

[@aspman97]

A note about replacing the headlight switch; be careful, that when installed, the ferule doesn't bottom out on the rheostat. Seems some replacements are not created equal. Standard DS165 I'm looking at you.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Hey, that’s good to know. Never seen that before.

[@flickerblip9044]

Those cheapo crimp connectors give me the willies. I long ago switched to the glue-filled heat shrink crimps, which provide excellent wire support in addition to waterproofing. Worth the extra 2 cents.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I don't have any local source for nice heat shrink spades and such. I do use heat shrink butt splices, and I have also been known to remove the plastics from the cheapos, crimp them properly with a good crimp tool, and heat shrink them.

[@jamesmancusi6747]

I've got a 69' that needs a new under-dash harness - I'm dreading this job.

[@klapaucius77]

My amp gauge is the only one that doesn't work. It has voltage on both sides, but the gauge doesn't move. The other 3 work, so I count it as a win and drive on.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Do you happen to have a shunt / amp meter bypass wire? If so, you will get very little or no movement from the amp gauge.

[@klapaucius77]

​ @DeadDodgeGarage I have no idea. I'll have to do some looking and Google what that would look like. 😂 Edit: Upon investigation, there is no shunt wire.

[@richjordan9375]

I am so not a fan of crimped connections; the few patches I made on the Challenger way back including putting ceramic headlight plugs after switching to Carello H4/H1 headlights and seeing the OE plastic ones get a bit melty. All connections soldered. I think if I had the mess you saw there to deal with I'd stay away from tape and use heat shrink tubing to cover up the exposed connectors, though that would make it more difficult to get them apart again...

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That's exactly why I didn't heat shrink them. Those really should have been spade connectors with covers, and frankly I think it's absolutely stupid that they aren't. But I wasn't willing to completely redo the entire mess. There is a decades-long debate between crimps and solders for automotive use. I'm a crimp guy, although I have soldered various connections over the years. IF it's crimped right and has heat shrink, it can last a long, long time.

[@Anthony-nw5zv]

Ta Da! They work! "Did you check the ground?!!!"🤣

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Every time 🤣

[@timbarry5080]

What a cool interior. That shifter/console combo is tits!

[@PlymouthOnPlywood]

I got a stupid expensive Dakota Digital custom dash for my Valiant. Some shop in Omaha had it built for customer who presided to ghost them. Since it’s a one year car and an unpopular one at that I got it for less than half of what it cost them. It still cost more than I paid for my entire car in the first place… oh well.

[@iamnoone.]

J A M I E, I just did my 66 dart dash this summer. I had to replace the pins that always come loose on the circuit board.l replaced them with 2mm stainless steel screws and nuts. Had to file threads off and plugs slid right on and no more dash problems.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nice! I've seen that done too. I definitely prefer it to this.

[@localcrew]

I need to fly you to Louisville so that you can diagnose my passenger side window electrical gremlin.

[@joshjesch6000]

Yikes....electrical gremlins are my nemesis. I can't beat them. Takes a greater mind than mine.. lol

[@cowthedestroyer]

uhhggg headlight switches. I sit and play with mine while i wait for the truck to warm up every morning. I refuse to buy a new switch to fix the flickering dash lights. Damn you chrysler!!!!!

[@idaholineman5788]

You can actually use a points file and clean up the contact where it runs on the rheostat.

[@MrDurandal25]

I'd bet the PINs on the motherboard were broken off....and his fix for that was not paying the $195 for a re-pop. Hacked the head off the harness and soldered that crap you see there. Terrible. You sir are the master.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh yeah, guaranteed. An actual dash repair company did that repair... I did them a favor and didn't mention their name in the video.

[@Coronetguy]

@@DeadDodgeGarageya That was tasteful of you.. I dealing with same company on another issue. Learned my lesson!

[@PhilDodgeFury]

hi Jamie , what’s with the yellow wire circuit? I need a little can that’s for the key light timer . it seems like my yellow wire circuit doesn’t work properly without this . Can you do a video on the yellow circuit and the heavy green circuit for the lighters please 68 fury dodge phoenix

[@alrui]

Hi Jamie, what brand is the power probe your'e using? Are you happy with it? Thanks!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Why, it’s a Power Probe brand 😅 I use the Power Probe III, and other than the speakers almost always blowing immediately, they are great units!

[@alrui]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for the reply! I was looking at getting the Autel for my son's x-mas present when I saw you using yours. I'll check it out. Thanks again!

[@DPWheeler67]

I don't think Jamie got near annoyed enough LOL

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Better luck next time 😅

[@Grandadsjunk]

You might be doing this car for a while

[@aprules2]

Jamie, I thought these cars had the Electroluminescent dash that like never works? Or was getting rid of that part of the cluster resto?

[@HelpingHand-ic4wt]

EL was Chargers for '66 & 67, Imperial 1960-63, Chrysler 1960-62, and the 1963 Chrysler Turbine Car which is used it across the dash to include the model name on the passenger side in even, flickerfree cool aqua blue.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

No EL in these cars, as HelpingHand explained.

[@boilerroomed3682]

I was sniffing for bad grounds from the jump but now not so much! BTW, you have the pain and annoyance tolerance of a T-800 Terminator or MMA type....

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well, it’s definitely gotta be up there.

[@knote4958]

18:42 and to think, that thing was made by the same defense contractor that make a stealth bomber

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It truly boggles the mind.

[@wjb111]

👍🏻

[@andymontemayor175]

My dad always told me those problems were easy fixes that could be solved at a hardware store. You just go to the back and get a for sale sign.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nice 😂

[@mountainhours4443]

I have a 1967 Barracuda and the temperature gauge doesn't work. It works when I ground the wire. I would rather have a nap then to take out the instrument cluster.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

If it works when you ground the wire, it works. You’ve tried multiple gauge sending units I’m assuming? Interesting…

[@phillipcramer7936]

If disconnecting the wire at the sending unit and grounding that wire makes the gauge register, the sending unit is bad. The sending unit should have a resistance of approximately 70 ohms at room temperature. The resistance drops as the temperature increases. To reiterate what Jamie said, only ground a gauge for a couple seconds to avoid damaging the gauge.

[@mountainhours4443]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for the reply. Yes I tried 2 different sending units with the same results.

[@mountainhours4443]

@@phillipcramer7936 Thanks for the reply. I have never tested it with an ohms meter. I ordered a new sending unit with the same results.

[@scottsmith1897]

Woo Hoo the leaf raking can wait a new video...........

[@rustynails9659]

Do you happen to know how cluster lights work in 67 charger ?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yeahhhh… that one gets complicated. I will do a video on them when I get a chance.

[@rustynails9659]

@ no hurry mine still works but I know it’s just the matter of time

[@roycervantes1341]

Good afternoon,,,,,,,, Yeee Yeee

[@nickbruni8041]

👌🏼⛽️

[@tonyb3864]

It's always the ground !

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s *never* lupus

[@Coronetguy]

I guess I have gauges for sale at this point! Lol

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yesss, yes you do... basically a full set!

[@peterbelyea8280]

what's the thing that looks like a condenser for?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Designed to reduce noise picked up by the radio from the mechanical gauge voltage limiter.

[@peterbelyea8280]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks. Have one, can't find where it broke off.

[@paulgrogan8671]

Where do I find 60s d100 suspension rubber

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I don’t have any special sources for that kind of thing. We get a lot of bushings and stuff from RockAuto, as lame and obvious as that may sound.

[@frankrizzo3922]

Great video - but my 70' Dart blows the 3amp dash light fuse instantly soon as I turn on the lights... the video didn't help with a problem like that... p.s. my headlight switch is new so it's something else... 🤔

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Dead short. Find it… there are dash light circuits in the gauges, in the automatic column, in the factory radio, and in the center console if so equipped.

[@aspman97]

@@DeadDodgeGarage and the ashtray.

[@DratsumX]

I considered swapping out the factory Vacuum (performance) gauge on the barracuda with a tac. Because it seemed more useful - but - it occurred to me that maybe I just don’t know why I need a vacuum gauge and need education.

[@HelpingHand-ic4wt]

a vacuum gauge is a Dollar Per Mile gauge.

[@rennkafer13]

@@HelpingHand-ic4wt or conversely, the Fun-O-Meter... the less vacuum, the more fun. 😁

[@KrisGreenhillsGarage]

Did you check the ground? (chuckles cleverly to myself)

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Uhhhhhhh huh

[@kimherrick9615]

So, why does the speedometer in my 95 Dodge ram Cummins read double most of the time? every once in a while it will read correctly for a few seconds then back to double.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Something is horribly wrong... But I don't know what specifically.

[@evanmurphy2473]

I need a mopar benefactor

[@JustanOlGuy]

[@kennethflusche7900]

Barracuda Yea.... need an update on the Blue Studebaker?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The last video did so poorly, I’m not sure there will be one. I haven’t done anything else with it yet.

[@johneven318]

What's funny is my 98 dakota is damn near the exact same headlight switch

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s not just dodges either. You’ll find similar headlight switches in classic models from just about all American manufactures. But Chrysler stuck with the pull switch longer than the others.

[@fritzthedog007]

Some high level skills on display here. Lord, that mail truck is the ugliest veer-hicle I ever done seen.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I hate them with a fiery passion… and thanks!

[@michaelnault5905]

Once the open heart surgery is done, it'll be ready to swim again!

[@deansutherland992]

Sometimes when my head's all up in the dash like that there are these moments when it feels like my head is stuck, sort of like a Chinese finger puzzle except with your head and your mopar instead of your fingers. Then the panic passes and you resume working. Anyone else ever get this? Anyone?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

My neck hurts just thinking about it…

[@Bradydog-in7ut]

I’d have a better chance of taking my brothers 68 Roadrunner on a beat run than figuring out that mess of wires you just set up. Could you tell us what to expect to pay for taking 3 months off your life with this repair? PS- Must be really inspiring leaving a MoPar repair for a mail truck…..

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well, I can tell you I probably didn’t charge enough 😅

[@Bradydog-in7ut]

@ No doubt!!

[@terryschnereger8531]

Dear Internet. I have a blinker/flasher problem. I've replaced the switch, new led bulbs, new led flashers. And still no Bueno! Regards, 74 Charger owner.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I just went through this on a ‘73 challenger. LED bulbs wouldn’t work. LED flasher wouldn’t work. I put stock stuff back in, and it all worked perfectly… also, make sure all of the screws on your front blinker housings are present and tight. Common problem.

[@phithemopar]

It’ll need a 4 speed that’s alway the best experience

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Better experience, obviously - but I don't think every Sunday cruiser needs a four speed swap.

[@phithemopar]

@ I still agree and I’ve got my own 360 auto cruiser also and love it

[@robertfitch1720]

You're gonna burn, burn, burn, burn, burn it to the wick~

[@graydude4698]

👽 .... ..

[@southerncomfort655]

1st