Dean Park Station Video 72 - How to light a Peco Inspection Pit

[@tail_lamp7538]

Bit late to the party however I've just watched this video prior to embarking on a similar project Dave - very informative and easy to follow.

[@ChapelEndJunctionUK]

Excellent demo Dave so easy to follow and they look brill .......Peter.

[@ScottDowneywoundedbear]

Great idea putting the lights in the pit. Looks really good.Scott

[@mitchellthomas2674]

Great tutorial Dave and it will hopefully come in very handy when I develop my own diesel depot.

[@mayhewjunction9429]

Brilliant tutorial, thanks Dave. All the best Howard.

[@robmasterman]

Absolutely superb Dave, fully detailed and understandable descriptions, and the end result is quite stunning...Best wishes...Bob

[@DeanPark]

+Robert Masterman Hi Bob, as is the norm, I am deeply grateful for your support of my videos. I know you will 'say it as it is', so if you approve then it must be not half bad! ;-) Much appreciated. Dave

[@robmasterman]

Spot on Dave....it comes with age....'The victor Meldrew syndrome!'

[@firpark7685]

Really good video, the lighting is really effective. Seeing those lights reminds me of cold windswept wet nights trainspotting around depots over the years under the lights !.I might be tempted to add these to my own TMD.

[@bluemountainsmodelrailproj2589]

Nice touch to the layout Dave. Great video as always. Thanks for sharing- Cheers Andy

[@AndyHudson-ModelRailwayBuilds]

Very good Dave, nice and simple something I might try one day

[@MichaelHenfrey]

Hi Dave, Great tutorial video, It looks really good and very effective, I like how you include a parts list too, very handy! Cheers, Michael

[@DeanPark]

+Michael Henfrey Yeah I get really annoyed when people do how to videos but don't tell me where they get the parts or what the parts are! lol. Thought that would be handy to include! Dave

[@percomotion]

Those lights look great Dave well done on that mate. Cheers Kev

[@DeanPark]

+percomotion Cheers Kev. They do the job....they aint perfect, but without having 15-20 leds in the pit I was not going to get perfect lighting coverage. Anymore than 10 LED's would be too much wiring. Dave

[@steamhead8463]

Looks great Dave, and a good idea with the components list at the end :)

[@melanierhianna]

You could have wired the LEDs in parallel down the side of the pit and just had two feed wires per pit. 20mA LEDs x 10 is 200mA. You might need a higher wattage resistor but it’s not problematic. Saves a lot of wiring.

[@sparky107107]

what a nice how to video , I was really hoping to watch you solder all the wires to the led's , lol , looks brilliant and with the loco above it , great effect

[@DeanPark]

+sparky107107 Me soldering....I would send you to sleep!! lol

[@anthony566]

very good demo Dave ... I just wish I had thought about it BEFORE I put mine in ..... I'm going to see if I can lift them out ....

[@DeanPark]

+anthony566 Hi, yeah why not have a try....its not difficult to do. Just time consuming. ;-) Dave

[@epj900]

That looks really good Dave,well done. I think I would have taped over the back of the LEDs and their wiring to secure them firmly to the side of the pit before fitting it into the baseboard

[@DeanPark]

+epj900 Hi, Yeah I did, as mentioned earlier in the video, but I didn't say that later when I maybe should have. Cheers. Dave

[@MiltonMoJunction]

A great informative video, thanks Dave. Just in time one of my next jobs is to finish a DMU work area and shed. I agree with Graham, what is there to dislike on this video, I would probably call them something stronger but... Robin

[@DeanPark]

+Milton Mo Junction Cheers Robin, no problem, glad you enjoyed it. Give it a try, its time consuming but fairly straight forward to do! Dave

[@JKWARGAMES]

Great stuff Dave I must try this.

[@DudleyCentral]

Great video Dave! I'll have a go at doing something similar, thanks for uploading! Joe

[@DeanPark]

+Joe Jabczynski No worries Joe, thanks for watching. Dave

[@richardlees778]

looking good mate

[@C-MAGs]

Quite a bit of work for something so small (and quite hidden) It is however, your attention to detail that makes your layout so special. I tip my hat sir. :D

[@DeanPark]

+Craig Magee Why thank you kind gent! lol. At the end of the day, I aint in a rush, so may as well get the little bits of detail in there while I can be bothered! ;-) Cheers. Dave

[@erniegwright]

Nice one mate well done

[@steburge1]

Hi Dave, great video tutorial, first class! What gets me is the number of thumbs down you get! Your channel is one of best out there! Keep the faith, looking forward to the next one.....All the best Steve

[@DeanPark]

+Steve Burgess Steve, I don't understand it, when none of these people has the guts to say why they dislike it. Not that their comments would be taken on board as they are just tossers. I don't put the videos up for those people. I do it for the overwhelming majority of people why enjoy model railways. Cheers Dave

[@davidlarge4818]

Do you think that the old triang / hornby class 31 would run with dcc they run sweet and with very little noise after I cleaned them thoroughly with lighter fuel

[@crazyvec]

Thanks for sharing...looks very effective. cheers...steve

[@stephenrsims4034]

hi Dave great video but can you wire the LEDs in series POSS TO NEG and so on in line so you only have two wires poss /NEG going to them with out popping all the LEDs

[@DeanPark]

+Stephen R Sims The reason I did it this way (parallel) is that I can more easily change one if there is a problem, without disturbing the wire from the other LED's. It might use more wire, but may make repairs easier (not easy in the tight space, but easier! lol).Cheers.Dave

[@gerrybvr]

Looks great and the parts list is very handy. I'm a bit baffled why you wired each LED separately rather than together in parallel (or series). It would be much simpler, neater and only need 1 resistor. There are many online sites to help calculate the right resistor depending on how many LEDs you use.

[@DeanPark]

+Gerry Wicklow Hi, I am a bit stupid when it comes to electronics...plus parallel is better long term as if one resistor breaks the rest will not go out! Dave

[@gerrybvr]

+DaveClass47 Having seen the rest of your brilliant work to date, stupid is the last terms I'd use Dave. Just thought it might be something for you to look into in future.

[@DeanPark]

Gerry Wicklow;-) I was always taught that parallel was the safer more straight forward option...not being the best (perhaps a bit stupid lol) with understanding electronics I went for the safer option.

[@Castlebridge-00]

Thanks Dave for a good stage by stage '"How you can"'. The result bears out the effort. 2 questions, How did you decide on 10 k resistors? Did you have to do anything special; when soldering the very fine LED wire to the thicker wire?Barry. Devon.

[@DeanPark]

+OBowner Hi Barry, I started with 1k, but they gave too harsh a light, so I had a pack of 10k lying around, so used them and was happy with the light level. That's it basically ;-). Nothing special with the soldering, just make sure and use some flux to help the solder flow! Hope this helps. Dave

[@daviemaclean61]

Looks fantastic Dave, even in the "raw" cork underlay stage, and will only improve once the scene is complete. Look forward to your videos. High time youtube tackled the negative leavers - maybe a time delay before any such rating (positive or negative) goes "public"? Can I counteract the negatives with the Scottish double positive, aye, right!

[@DeanPark]

+davie maclean Cheers Davie, appreciate that. Aw as for the negative pratt's...let them have their wee thrills, they have very little else in their sad wee lives! lol. Dave

[@SimonLivertonCentral]

Hi Dave, excellent video on adding lights to the pit. Can I ask if you know if the Peco pits with connect to Hornby track? Have you tried connecting the LED's in "series" so you end up with only one positive and one negative, rather than positive and negative for each of the LED's?...Simon

[@DeanPark]

+Liverton -Simon Yes but if one LED failed in series the whole lot would not light...I think this is the case. Should fit Hornby track as its code 100...which appears to be a standard track section. Dave

[@dessilverson161]

Very nice Dave. I just wish LED's weren't so focused as it creates such a harsh clinical light. I may try dragging a bit of course sandpaper over the end of one and at least try and get a frenzled lens. I maye been inclined to put all the LED's in parallel and just have one pair running down with one resistor. May possibly have got away with them in series straight onto the 12 bus with no resistor at all. Perhaps its just me, but why run one wire when ten will do? Des

[@DeanPark]

+Des Silverson Hi, if you do series and one LED goes out then they will all go out. From a maintenance point of view that would be a nightmare to repair, parallel is the safer of the two options. Yes its a lot of wire, but its under the base board, so isn't seen, thankfully! Dave

[@lukenoble3319]

The lights give the shed a very nice atmosphere in the dark. Are you planning to add anymore inspection pits?

[@DeanPark]

+Luke Noble I am lighting the other one too.

[@frothybeast7884]

Hey Dave watched a few of your videos, just subbed.

[@DeanPark]

Hi....many thanks and I hope you enjoy watching a lot more. Please feel free to comment on anything you see and I always try to reply....eventually lol. Dave

[@WoodyWood]

Nice how-to video and easy to followLooks good on your layoutWhat make is the engine shed?

[@DeanPark]

+Graham Wood Bachmann Scenecraft....no longer in production, but as Bachmann tend to re-introduce their items I wouldn't bet against it being re-released at some point.

[@billconroy7132]

Dave What power source are you using for your pits and other accessories. From an old Champs123 video, I took up his idea and I am using an old desktop PC power supply which gives me 12v, 5v,4v, 0v to power my Seep point motors for starters.

[@DeanPark]

+Bill Conroy Hi I am using a 12v DC Gaugemaster WM1 Transformer power supply, bought for around £18 Its tiny and gives good results. I have another one for the 16v ac for the peco motors. The WM1 can do 12v dc or 16v ac.

[@billconroy7132]

+DaveClass47 Thank's for that I don't know how you find the time to construct this fantastic layout plus raise a family and go to work I have just spent a day upgrading old peco insulfrogs to electrofrogs to keep my costs down but only earmark them for sidings and goods yards until funds eventuate to replace them considering they are 30+ years old the quality of Peco products astounds me. keep the videos rolling and happy new year

[@DeanPark]

Bill Conroy Hi, I try to get an hour most nights to disappear up the loft. Also, my other half is so supportive of my time consuming hobby.;-)

[@scuboo]

It looks excellent, what volts have you got the leds going to?

[@DeanPark]

+R Byrne 12v dc

[@scuboo]

+DaveClass47 brilliant Dave thanks very much, I'm using 12dc too just wanted to be sure about the resistors. Thank you.

[@JamesStJunction00]

Great work Dave. Will be using this video when i fit mine. Just one question, how much wider did you make the hole in the baseboard for the pit to accommodate the lights. Steve

[@DeanPark]

+JamesStJunction Hi, I made it 15-17mm wide....10mm to accommodate the pit and the lighting, but the lighting takes up very little extra space. Cheers. Dave

[@davidlarge4818]

Did you put the plasticard on the very bottom to cover the drains from underneath

[@DeanPark]

no. There was no need as the light would not bleed out there, but you could!

[@tomelms8712]

what value resistors did you use? And what voltage rated LEDs?

[@DeanPark]

+Tom Elms Hi, as the shopping list at the end of the video outlines I use 10k resistors. Suitable Voltage is 12-16v dc

[@tomelms8712]

ah ok thanks, sorry missed that

[@DeanPark]

Tom Elms No worries, anything else you need to know, just get in touch. Cheers and thanks for watching. Dave

[@howarth004]

Anice touch adding the lighted pits

[@MotoCrazy66]

Just going to put the kettle on, then it's Dean Park fix time!

[@DeanPark]

+MotoCrazy66 'Braw'! lol. Dave

[@davidlarge4818]

Just one question why not wire in series to cut down the wiring ?

[@DeanPark]

Well, good point!...lol. I like to wire in parallel, so if one LED blows it does not cause the whole thing to go out. But I will admit, less wiring would have been better, but I got it all fitted in no bother so it worked out. Dave

[@JtagSheep]

I was thinking about this too and you could wire them all in parallel and have just 2 wires coming from each pit :) wonderful video though really neat quality work :)

[@GrahamFoulston]

Excellent work there Andy, I have just fitted the same kind of pits into one of my steam engine sheds but haven't lit them but when I come to do the diesel shed then I think I will nick this method if you don't mind, it looks so good. I'm not too bothered about not lighting the steam engine shed but I think the TMD deserves it. A great 'How to' and thanks for sharing, much appreciated. How on earth can you get 9 dislikes for this, absolutely stupid! Morons. A like from me anyway. ..........Graham

[@DeanPark]

+Graham Foulston Cheers Graham, I am willing to learn from these 9 experts, if they would perhaps show me how to do it better??! lol. Dave

[@GrahamFoulston]

+DaveClass47 LOL. I don't even think it's that to be honest Andy, funnily enough after leaving that comment I got another 5 dislikes today on my last two videos - they're really going for it! lol. Am I bovvered? I just find it funny, their faces must be like bulldogs chewing a wasp. :-) ............Graham

[@mike6147]

A new class 37 being run in?

[@MotoCrazy66]

I wonder why 8 people don't like it, i fail to see what's wrong with the vid.

[@DeanPark]

+MotoCrazy66 One word... jealousy? Not that I do things people need to get jealous about, I aint exactly an expert!! Cheers. Dave

[@AndyHudson-ModelRailwayBuilds]

Very good Dave, nice and simple something I might try one day