Defender footwell, door pillar, and upper bulkhead repair. Pt 1 removal of parts

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[@grahamsmith2039]

You would be the best mechanic to replace, ED China on wheeler dealers Mike ,! Very good at explaining things with personality and above all ,doing proper long lasting repairs

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Graham I am going to pin this reply! Mike

[@grahamsmith2039]

Wheeler rovers lol, I’m not a fan of mike and edds shows, I don’t think they do things the proper way , keep the videos up mike, I watch and enjoy them all , take care my friend 👍🏻

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have some ideas for this year - got that wreck of a 110 out today and clearing the decks I worked out Wheeler Dealers was fake along time ago - buy a car for £500 and sell it for £2000 and have £5,000 worth of workshop time on it - they never included their time Thanks Graham Mike

[@malcolmyoung7866]

I agree but straight away Mike would have a problem.. The FLS (Mike Brewer) would have to 'share' a namesake...'who's who'...etc and 'our' Mike's proper repairs would go against the instant gratification TV that these shows are all about. If you look at Wheeler Dealers in the early days, most of the cars they repaired were never sold to real punters...production crew members were used as actors...everything on that show was 'fake' when it came to the outcomes...although the best bits showing Ed China actually fixing things were (to my knowledge) probably the only genuine part of that show. China left because the new production company wanted less technical stuff and more 'emotional content' (like Overhaulin'). Best thing about youtube is that most people on here are here for genuine reasons and not stardom status...although 'our' Mike is a bit of a Star' IMHO...

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The very early shows were watchable But I no longer check them out - I saw the a last episode in the US where they had an Austin Healy to go to auction and were just going to do a few fixes - when that car went to auction it had new paint and chrome - probably more than they got for the car. I think people want to see repairs without the drama

[@romrokth]

Awesome one Mike, just the stuff I'm getting to. Great seeing how the professional does it!

[@karlhrdylicka]

The fun and games begin. been there many times got the 'T' shirt , but not got around to writing a book or doing a video and @ my age probably never will .

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I will be doing no more after this

[@mickmorgan5104]

YOU HAVE THE HEART OF A LION , MIKE, take care , good luck , cheers Mick.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Mick - this is the last - a waste of time - I have better things to do in 2019! Mike

Hi Mike great video well done looking forward too next chapter 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks Denis! MIke

[@nickuk1978]

Yes, a No.4 Pozidrive with the little 'x' marked at 45deg to the slots - never use a Philips! So similar looking but the wrong one destroys the screw head (and don't do the screwdriver any favours either!) Using an impact driver sometimes helpful as it breaks the rust in the threads better. I've now ended up grinding the hinge off as well as less hassle in the end (and the hinge blocks are pretty knackered often as well!)

[@eliotheasman5378]

Hi Mike I am working on a Ford Transit Mark 6 UK model and you have helped me a great deal many thanks Eliot

[@chrisaldridge3117]

Great stuff mike. I need to replace bulkhead out riggers, pillar Feet and sill rail so guess removing the wing is going to be the only way.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Will make life easier

[@betterbackwards2701]

Use a belly brace as a screw driver. Get a lot of torque and pretty comfortable.

[@geraldswain3259]

How I loved the quality of my old mk 1 simple and agricultural as it was .

[@BritannicaRestorations]

When cars were cars!

[@Jottingsfrom]

A great video again Mike Keep it up!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks! Mike

[@jamesward5721]

I chuck them captive nuts in the bin - I cut out the area the hinges bolt onto, weld in a piece of flat steel, drill that for riv-nuts, fit riv-nuts & use metric M8 bolts to hold the hinges on. The factory version is rubbish. I do much the same everywhere all around the vehicle - todays project was turning a stock SWB Defender commercial into a single cab-pickup without buying any new panels.. everything got re-used/cut/repurposed - every captive nut I came across, every nut-clip, every awkward fastener got chucked in the bin & replaced with a riv-nut so the entire thing can be taken apart by a 5 year old with a 13mm socket. If any fastener is any way awkward to get at/hard to open, it gets simplified so that it is no longer difficult - which means the next time it needs taking apart, it is a doddle.

[@bigm383]

I liked the way you gently massaged the rust out with a hammer.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Indeed it was quite effective! Didn't want to hit too hard or I would have to shovel my way out of the shop!

[@chillyspoon]

Thanks for this - very useful!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad it was helpful!

[@TheBendalina]

Thank you for posting! I have to change my mirrors and arms so good to know what I might be up against when removing hinge bolts.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The hinge bolts on the pillar do not need removing when doing the mirror - just the door bolts

[@TheBendalina]

Britannica Restorations Ltd of course! Silly me. Love all the videos. 👍

[@radiator0]

All that work.. If i were charles id be shitting myself when the final bill arrives....

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I know - mechanical work is much easier than rust repair

[@bleizbreizh6264]

Whitworth and metric - classic!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

LR must have bought millions of them and needed to use them up!

[@TheBendalina]

Yabba Dabba do!!! Ideal car for the flintstones!!! 😁

[@jonathandosser]

Another brilliant video Mike! I have a similar job to do on my 300tdi this weekend so many thanks! Hooray for Yorkshire BTW! (I'm actually Suffolk born and bred but I have an affinity for your homeland - having graduated from the University of York.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks Jonathan! Mike

[@greggferns3278]

What a ball ache that is,just to get where you want to be.I'm going through all that and more with a S3,but at least there is more room and easier access.More power to you,and keep up the good work

[@BritannicaRestorations]

That's it - no more of these 'working to a budget jobs' Too much work - little reward Mke

[@everettballenger7880]

Hi Mike, I see you took to wheel off to get to the plastic retainers for the wheel arch. I use a spring loaded center punch with the point still in tack and they usually pop right out with out disturbing the wheel.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good tip! But I had to take the wheel off to get the footwell out anyway

[@andicog]

Great video Mike, will be following this with interest as my 110's bulkhead that was refurbished by the army seems to have a lot of suspicious pop riveted plates. Sheilder in Ireland are producing a new galvanised bulkhead now and Hobson industries here in England are making them in stainless, don't ask the price though. . ..

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Are they new or galvanized old ones? I think new Defender bulkheads are available in Turkey

[@andicog]

@@BritannicaRestorations Sheilder are brand new bulkheads, they also make galvanised chassis check them out online at www.shielderchassis.com

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Actually pretty good! Impressed! Mike

[@gregstanley9398]

Hi Mike About that lower inner wing support bracket could you just retain it with some flange head rivets with a good coating of Duralac Anti Corrosive Jointing Compound to save all that wing fitting and removing and welding bother 👍🏻👍🏻

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I can try, but I have an idea this customer wants it welding

[@grahamsmith2039]

Theres always at least one wire left attached, I remember taking mini and crossflow cylinder heads off , it was usually the temperature sender wire lol

[@BritannicaRestorations]

If you pull hard enough they will eventually come lose..

[@PillSharks]

What a shame Land Rover didn’t continue to use aluminium bulkheads like the very early series 1s... I can’t imagine galvanising the chassis and bulkheads and any other steel parts would have pushed the purchase price up by much! Imagine that, a Land Rover without any rust!!!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I think I read somewhere that they dropped the idea of galvanizing and making Al bulkheads as the would last too long then no one would buy another

[@mrcvry]

See Volvo. The last for ages. They went broke and the name was sold. Same as Land Rover. So it did not help Land Rover to survive. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@graham-martin5847]

i coat everything i do in copper grease and use stainless nuts and bolts for everything solves all the issues down the line everything comes loose straight away

[@karlhrdylicka]

graham-martin. yes same here .copper grease , but I don't use stainless on all fixings as they are not as strong as the high tensile bolts that are needed for some parts .Suspension, Towing hitches ,drive shaft couplings ,etc.

[@graham-martin5847]

I forgot to mention I only use on the light stuff not the heavy stuff no suspension or towing gear, miles the main man helping all landy owners I am totally anal about my Landy so everything has to match I think it's landy ocd lol

[@karlhrdylicka]

@@graham-martin5847 Hopefully you will eventually grow out of it (landy ocd ) I have owned and used LRs since my first second hand series 1 in 1964. I think you will find that YOU will grow tired of LRs before they get tired of you, big boys mechano. they will last a lifetime if you are prepared to keep bolting new parts on .

[@graham-martin5847]

Mine will deffo outlast me had it blasted and galved everything taken back to bear metal zinc primer then lots of enamel apint all small parts sand blasted too, ongoing project only took me four years lol ive got a full double cab sitting to waiting to be done after this one and a 300 tdi county after that so am gonna be busy for the next god knows how long if anyone interested leeds galvanising they are spot on pick chassis up from anywhere cheap and deliver back to you in about a week superb job too

[@Micheel254]

Pretty nice video, with lot of high value content for mechanics related to the defender. Forgive me my last comment on the other video from you I just saw, sound quality was way better in this one. Take my Abbo, seems like I have a new playlist 😀

[@BritannicaRestorations]

No worries!

[@sf017s4]

I'm doing this to mine right now! Pitty I can't put a photo on here. 300 Tdi 110.

[@patrickjobling8676]

Stroooth mate .. thats alot of palava ..🤣😂😎pip pips and carryon

[@robt2151]

The rear edges of the wing tops on my 1984 127 are bolted vertically from the outside - seems like all the smooth appearance of later models is not necessarily a great improvement.

[@finrambo3594]

Looking forward to seeing you do this as i'm doing the same with a series 3 .Its also corroded worse on the right hand side ?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I believe it is all to do with the camber of the road - as you know a road has a arch to it where the white line part is higher than the sides, so water runs off - so there is more salt water on the edges than the middle

[@rockystone1821]

Hi, I've just bought a 1997 defender county, it's in good order but the bolts holding the foot plates in place are starting to corrode, I want to replace them, any advise on how to do this ? Many thanks Andrew

[@craig_chaznibond452]

Great video Mike. I did this job last year, what a pain. What is the yellow/gold extrusion on the inner wing for? I thought maybe a resistor?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It is the resistor for the daytime running lights

[@craig_chaznibond452]

Thanks Mike. A bit odd that as mines a 1992 and doesn't have any! It appears to be connected just like the one on your car. Maybe a 2nd hand inner wing? Cheers.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Lord knows what this vehicle really is - I see the inner wings are 300Tdi type as there is no bracket for the metal expansion tank

[@slimriddim4145]

Hi Mike What a malarkey that job is eh.? My God! Have you ever done the repair panels that go across the vents under the screen? Mine is going on the top of the bulkead on the land above the vent... Great vids as always. Cheers Kev

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes Kev and I have only fitted those shitty cover over repairs - They fit where they touch and and not so good - but YRM have better repair panels yrmit.co.uk/product/lhs-bulkhead-full-vent-repair-panels-land-rover-defender-series-2-3/

[@Landroverguru4]

How are the bonnet hinges attached to the bulkhead are they riveted or welded on as i need ti replace the whole vent in my 300tdi as the previous bodge job is splitting at the bottom of the vent and pulling the bonnet forward

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Looks like rivet heads on the outside

[@davidwoods80]

Hey Mike, without buying a complete set of Whitworth tools that I'm likely never to use, which sockets or end wrenches are essential for a LR mechanic/owner/masochist to purchase?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Depends what vehicle you want to work on.. Let me know

[@davidwoods80]

@@BritannicaRestorations Mike, I'm getting either an early Defender 110 or a Series 3 109...

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Welder!LOL!Mike(will make a list soon)

[@andrewsmith1606]

Got my 1977 lwb to do 😖

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Best of luck!

[@neilrafferty2097]

Looks like a hangover from the old BL days

[@kingquadking6075]

If I buy a land rover do I haft to replace everything!!!

[@slimriddim4145]

Yep 😀

[@graham-martin5847]

Are green landys the only colour you get in canada lol

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I know - I have seen loads of them!

[@fionanokelly]

I quite understand that this type of job does not amuse you very much.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thank the Lord this is the last one - no more, no matter how much money they throw at me!

[@neilrafferty2097]

Scrap it !