Demonstrating Full Crevasse Rescue

Miyar Adventures Guide, Glen Young, demonstrates full crevasse rescue technique on the glaciated slopes of Mount Baker

[@throughmylens5582]

It was a wonderful and very informative video.

[@Emergenttheory]

Great demo, thanks!

[@ignacioestebanislas3375]

Thanks for uploading this video man!. The information you share Is life saving

[@4-SeasonNature]

Very thorough video.

[@yeisonx]

Thanks for sharing!

[@keithclimate]

It looks like, ultimately, the entire load was being held by that one prusik. Is that best practice? What about transferring the load onto a knot loop on a bight that you pre-tied between you and the prusik? Shouldn't the prusik be a backup?

[@tomasgan8474]

Thanks for the demonstration. The annotation gives the impression of a crevasse rescue with an actual jump into the crevasse. Would be nice to demonstrate how difficult it is to slow down the fall and do the process with full tension on the rope.

[@jpp8596]

If he was really holding someone that was fully hanging in a Crevasse, there's no way he could be up on his knees like he is in the first part of the video. As soon as you get up that high, you'd get pulled backwards off your knees.

[@91firedog]

Great video! what diameter rope do you use? what diameter cord? Static im assuming?

[@vasocreta]

I'm not the content creator but you are not always on a static rope on glacier routes. It really depends on whether the team expected any abseiling or not. There shouldn't be any dependency on whether the rope is static or dynamic when it comes to applying the crevasse rescue techniques discussed here. Regardless, a glacier rope is typically dry-treated at the very least to limit water absorption. As for length, diameter, etc. well I think that discussion is a neverending one. lol

[@kaskorraky9473]

Search Petzel Rad System. Petzl's Rad Line 6.0mm Rope is an ultralight, hyperstatic cord constructed for ski and mountaineering.

[@joshuaforester]

Overall, great video! Can you discuss some of the tradeoffs between using a trucker's hitch/overhand backup on the 2nd anchor versus setting 2 equalized anchors from the start using an overhand on the slings coming from the anchors? Was the trucker's hitch/overhand used because you were demonstrating 2-person crevasse rescue scenario, where backing up the rescuer quickly is more important? Would you trust the shelf created between your trucker's hitch/overhand anchor and the other?

[@mountfairweather]

Maybe just take crevasse rescue course dude

[@ConstructiveMinds100]

I think it would be sensible to approach crevasse in horizontal position NOT Standing as the weight of the body could make a big chunk of the icy snow fall and injured a person in the crevasse.

[@AMCOEAOWE]

At time mark 18:48 you are completely out of the system. Was that an oversight?

[@AMCOEAOWE]

Thank you for the great demonstration and reply.

[@samuelbeauregardt]

Same thing for 11:10 I assume? and at the end, for your hauling system, wouldn't you want to use a second motion capture system with the prussik (a Garda, a Guide or something else? )

[@kanthvineel]

This is complicated

[@vasocreta]

yep. Takes training and practice...and practice.

[@carambar1234]

D

[@xoswatson351]

Is it Canadian to pronounce crev-is not crav-ass lol