Demonstrating Some Connectors & Showing Whats Garbage!!

[@dennissmith8199]

Okay, Kenny, I'll take exception to how you used the solder tubes. I have used hundreds of these, and when properly applied, they provide an excellent , low resistance secure splice. To begin wit, I NEVER used a torch or open flame, as it applies too much heat in a localized area. I always used a heat gun and always worked it back and forth on the splice, getting the ends to shrink gown first, and seal the connector, the continue heating until you see the solder flow into the wire ends. At about 31:00 in the video, you tried heating the solder again, but IT NEVER MELTED PROPERLY. You have to see it melt ad flow into the joint. It's cold solder joint because it wasn't heated properly.

[@KStewart-th4sk]

All these comments about solder flowing means absolute zilch if the bare wires themselves aren't hot enough to provide a proper bond with the solder. It's doing exactly what he says "a cold solder joint" which is why they are pulling apart. I have never used them so exactly what procedure does the manufacturer say to do? They seem suspect to me when a normal solder joint requires heating the wire until the solder flows into the joint NOT the other way round where you are heating the solder until it flows into the wires which would normally be an ass backwards way of doing it. That is the first no no any person who has done a lot of soldering will tell a novice. I have seen guys doing that and it results in a poor joint. I.E. cold solder joint. From what i see i doubt i would ever use them. Just because you see the solder flow inside the insulated casing doesn't mean you have a good bond.

[@monteglover4133]

I’ll agree with Kenny it is a cold soldier joint and also no flux. I’ve made countless solder joints in my life time.

[@superdog1964]

This man is smart so he should know that quality will make a major difference in how well these connectors work? There are so many sellers on Amazon that push junk and claim it isn't? Also, I always use a heat gun with the formed attachment made for this application and have no issues? It is solder, just a low temp alloy BUT, like any type of solder joint if the wire is not clean, it won't attach. I have used 100's of them and when done properly with quality components and correct heat type and temp they work. I used to use the type Kenny likes, but even with the correct crimper and dies, there were issues. The pair used by Kenny are not correct for heat shrink butt connectors and will tear the shrink tubing when crimping even more. While the butt connector inside makes a great connection, they always seem to have holes in them where crimped when heat is applied? Water will get in and you are back to square one?

[@TheMamonti1]

Garbage is not bad enough of a word...... your method convinced me to quit soldering wires.....after 60 years of doing so! thanks.... no more burned fingers!!

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thanks for commenting & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@Jaguarist]

Car assembly guy once said that show me where in that car is soldered connector and I show You a honest Politician. Therefor use always OEM connectors in You car.

[@jerryr4832]

I am watching your test and I have used this connectors a lot and have not had any that failed, although I do it a little differently , I insert the connector on one wire first and slide it back, then the other wire that I am connecting I twist and with the connecting wire and then slide the soldering connector over the join wires twisted and then I use a blow heat gun and not an open flame, it melts the solder and it shrinks the remaining plastic around the wires and is a solid connection and insulated, very happy with this connectors

[@goodcitizen64]

A heat gun is the best way to go no matter which type connectors with heat shrink you use! I prefer the marine grade connectors that have heat shrink and adhesive in it!

[@carlosarthurpetry3674]

You don't need flux in the soldering connectors, but you do need to heat the connector slower, so the solder has time to flow. If you put a heat source that has too high of a temperature, you will damage the insulation before the solder in it melts properly and has time to flow. You don't want to be left with a ball of solder in the center, but have it all flowed throughout the wires.

[@Billdavis1974]

Hey Kenny, just wanted to say thank you for making this video, I’ve always felt connections were my weak point, this helped alot, thank you for the links also!! I will definitely be ordering some of those!!

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

I'm glad it helped. If you have questions feel free to reach out. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@brucesmallwood6251]

I've been a mechanic for 52 years, semi retired now. I've used every method out there to spice wires. Kenny , your are 100% correct. Great video!!! Hopefully will take heed to your videos!!! Have a great day 😊

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Brucesmallwood6251 Thank you for sharing your experience. Most people won't find fault (hahaha see what i did there?) Until the work fails & they have to deal with it. Thanks again & keep wrenching 🔧

[@domfer2540]

I have always used a way to connect my wires, for the past 50 years. Strip the two ends, put shrink wrap on the wire, push the two wires together like fingers, wrap one pieces of wire around the wires pushed together and then solder the wires together. Pull heat Shrink over the wire and heat. Then I put liquid tape on each end of the heat shrink. This may sound like a lot of work, but it will never come off.

[@David_Johnson_]

Hey Kenny, love how you explain things simply and in plain language. I've noticed on your last couple of videos there's only sound through the left channel, nothing on the right. Everything else I watch does not have the issue. Not sure if anyone else has the problem or if you've previously been told. Keep up the great work.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

No one has told me that. I will definitely take a look at the settings. I appreciate you taking your time to let me know. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@northpoint1039]

@@WrenchingWithKenny I just 'tuned' in and noticed the same thing on this video. So, Im going to download the video and fix it before watching. Still, Thank you for the videos and hope you are ok with all the storms going thru the south.

[@VWERIC10]

@@WrenchingWithKenny David is correct, only left channel working.

[@petescustomcarshop]

I have one of those long handle cutter/crimper pliers and it crimps perfectly. The long handles are great for leverage.

[@tomwood4354]

My comments on the solder seal wire connectors and wire connecting in general: I am a retired Electrical Engineer with decades of experience wiring military and civilian aircraft. The solder seal connectors are generally approved by safety agencies for use on aircraft in most situations. They must be properly installed, which was not the case with the job you had. Your method of using solderless crimp connectors and adhesive-lined heat shrink is excellent. The problem with solder is that when it is used with stranded wire it becomes brittle and vibration can cause the conductor to break. My team lost a half-million dollar unmanned aircraft because a technician on the assembly line decided to add solder to a connection that was supposed to be a crimp-only connection. It was a big wire like a 6 AWG on a main power feed attached to the alternator. the wire broke from vibration and the plane crashed. Solder can be used where the two leads have good strain relief for the wires near the solder connection. Printed circuit boards have many solder connections, but cracking from vibration on circuit boards is not a common problem. Keep crimping! :)

[@Liberatus]

Glad you mentioned using the wire to melt the solder

[@1955snipes]

Kenny, I have used the solder splices on aircraft and there is a procedure that has to be followed. To melt the solder and heat shrink on the splice we used heat guns and the splices that were used were different than what you have. They look pretty cheap and I would not use them on my car. Never had any problems with them on aircraft. I always use the ones that are used for auto and marine. You showed these when you used the wrong crimping that broke the plastic. These work good on cars because they crimp good and then the cover is heated and seals with the wire making it waterproof and sealing up. I always do the pull test to make sure that the splices are good. Had to replace the plug on my Ignition module because you can not buy just the wire and pin. I used the splices that you crimp and heat to shrink the cover with the glue. Have had no problem with the ignition sense. I have a 1998 Buick Park Avenue that I let sit around for a couple of years, but now has to be my daily driver. I will never let a car sit around again, too many problems getting it to run. You have a great show going on and I have even pick up some good ideas from you. Like I told you before I worked on aircraft, but working on cars is a lot different. Thanks again for a good show.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Good luck with the Buick. I have let cars sit too & it causes nothing but problems. Thanks for commenting & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@Jimmyky77]

Hey Kenny, you're missing the main Ingredient, Soldering Flux paste. Those connectors with the solder in the center didn't flow into the copper wires because you need to apply solder resin (Flux) to the wires prior to connecting them for the solder to penetrate the copper wires.

[@ervinraddatz3117]

I caught that the minute he did it; you are exactly right.

[@Pyroteknikid]

Technically, the instructions DO NOT include the use of flux, so I understand his frustration with these things. I use them now and then, but I do dip the wire ends in solid paste flux before inserting into the connector.

[@Jimmyky77]

@@Pyroteknikid Exactly

[@buddyo6756]

You have to clean copper, but unlike pipe, you can't clean each strand of wire so an acidic paste does that for you

[@KStewart-th4sk]

Does the manufacturer of those terminals say you have to apply flux to the wires first? All these comments about solder flowing means absolute zilch if the bare wires themselves aren't hot enough to provide a proper bond with the solder. It's doing exactly what he says "a cold solder joint" which is why they are pulling apart. I have never used them so exactly what procedure does the manufacturer say to do? They seem suspect to me when a normal solder joint requires heating the wire until the solder flows NOT the other way round where you are heating the solder until it flows which would normally be an ass backwards way of doing it.

[@akshi_az]

There is more than one way to miss-use those low temp soldering connectors, that doesn't necessarily mean they are bad. A lot of comments telling you that. Yes, it requires patience and flux. It's just sad that you choose to ignore that

[@jasontheshelfer]

Thanks for the video, definitely an interesting watch. Certainly understand the wire tap style connector is poor. That noted if you need to connect to a sensor wire to allow measurement while driving (e.g. O2 sensor to trace a fuel mix issue) without disturbing its normal connection back to the ecu did you have a preferred connector? In the past i have used a wire tap that used a single needle type puncture but i am always interested in seeing if there is something better.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

If you don't seal up the puncture the wiring harness can get moisture into it. I usually like to back probe the connectors with probing pins. Let me know how the repair goes. Thanks for watching the channel & keep wrenching 🔧

[@jthonn]

Just like I commented last time. I was going to try those things, but not anymore. You are 100% correct about soldering wire. The right way is the only way. I have used butt connectors as many have and they do work. Those splice connectors are only good if you have to use it to run an extra wire for something, they are real easy, but if you have a problem, you know what it is, and I would not use them for vital stuff. I would rather use a connector and just have 2 wires crimped on one side. Good video, thanks Kenny.

[@monteglover4133]

Thank You, for this video I was curious about those connections “solder” connections I’m a mostly retired HVAC&R contractor and a large amount of wiring was required, much at high voltage (120 to 480) and current bad connections failed quickly and often catastrophically.

[@SaintsofAvalon]

You want to start pulling one wire through the self solder connector and bare 1" of wire so you can cross the 2 ends and wrap them in opposite directions before pulling back in for soldering . The opposite wrap forms the joint just as it's been done for over 100 year's and the solder simply locks the wrap to stop it pulling apart . The main benefit is the glue that seals the joint from moisture ingress . Simply laying the wires in there isn't an acceptable way of forming a wire joint .

[@dogdooley4495]

Back in the 80s, when I got my first car, I used to bite the insulation off and twist the wires together, then wrap with a bunch of electrical tape. It worked great for about a year. Now I use solder and a heat shrink. Amazing how we learn as we age.

[@marsautoman]

I have used the style you hate for lights, sensors and switches and had no problem. a;ways have taken the metal centers out of the regular butt connectors. The crip type with the heat shrink on them, they come in recall kits from the manufacture. The metal ones you use with heat shrink tubing I only use under the vehicle. Keep up the awesome job Kenny. Remember, don't get old.

[@ddelano7408]

Excellent video Ken! You will never convince everyone but at least you know your workmanship is high quality and should never have a come back.because of a wire connection issue. I've had cortisone shots in my knees and shoulder joints about 30 years ago and they worked great. Over the last 6 years I have developed arthritis in both thumbs. I have had 4 shots in my left thumb and 2 in my right one. I hope that never happens to you as these shots are extremely painful and now I'm looking at surgery to repair the joints. Wish you well with your back and knees!

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

@ddelano7408 - getting injections in your thumbs sounds terribly painful. I'm sorry you're dealing with that. Thank you for your kind words & watching the channel 🔧

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

Very good video on connectors.. One thing I noticed in the quick solder connectors ,is the Solder never Flowed. I didn't see the solder go into the strands of wires. If it does not Flow its not going to adhere to the wires and make a good mechanical/electrical connection. Perhaps that type of connector requires a lower but longer heat source thus to fully flow the solder yet not burn/ melt the outer heat Shrink. Seems this product may have learning curve to get it just right to make it work, otherwise they would not sell them by the millions. I still prefer soldering and using Heat Shrink whenever possible. Especially outside the cabin area where moisture and high vibration can occur. I strongly agree not to use Vampire and non Heat Shrink crimp connectors. I have seen them fail outside the cabin due to corrosion. Thanks for taking the time to make us better Techs.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

They sell them by the millions because people don't know any better. They are quick, easy & cheap. We have to show them why they shouldn't use them at all. I haven't gone a month without having to repair a botched scotchlock job. On the brightside, I have gained a lot of good customers. Thank you for your comment. I appreciate you. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@John-dp3ln]

The definitive tests of these connections are pull tests which you did and electrical load tests. The ohmmeter puts a few milliamps of current through the connection which a single strand can provide. Put 10 amps through the connection with a lab supply ( Amazon $60), and monitor voltage drop and heat. Completely agree that the solder sleeve connectors are junk. Solder melts at less than 200 degrees f and does nothing. Good video. Thanks.

[@JamesMcDonough-i9b]

My Brother mister kenny (lots of love to you and Ms wrenching) you will always be my best and only shop teacher. Like you I'm a man of all trades master of none.but we know better

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thank you for your kindness & watching the channel. Keep wrenching, brother 🔧

[@ateamfan42]

I've been soldering for years, and have gotten very comfortable making solder joints in challenging locations. Solder + heat shrink is always my preferred solution. I can see the attempt at convenience to combine the solder and shrink in a single part, but breaking out the process into two steps gives the opportunity to inspect the solder joint before covering. I have had good luck with crimp connectors (if crimped properly). I've even had pretty good luck with T-Taps, though they are definitely not the best solution for all the reasons Kenny identified. If they are used with the correct size wire in interior applications on non-critical items, they can be sort of okay. I do prefer to drive the blade in fully with the pliers before closing the "door" to cover the connection.

[@buddyo6756]

To use the solder type connector or solder in general you need to add solder paste because used wires have oxidation on them thats why its not working. Copper has to be very clean to weld. I am in the heavy equipment repair industry and use them a lot because they don't corrode

[@legionofanon]

There's a place for scotchlocks, and in automotive it's only temporary. The new transport company i worked for used them and harness taps (male and female plug with 6 inches of wire) to connect temporary lighting for transport of new semis. And with that i think you may have incorrectly connected the scotchlock, since the blade was both not seated completely and it was poking through the cap, 23:20 . We always crimped them with the cap open till the blade was flush then snapped the cap shut. You do gotta be careful to not over crimp and crush them, which can completely cut the wires

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

They are fine for a temporary repair/solution. Thanks for your comment & keep wrenching

[@carlw9009]

I have used every type of connection technique’ and have acceptable results with most of them, but your last one is the technique I prefer. Little extra work but very solid connection when done. Thanx for that demonstration, helps to understand there IS a difference in how wires should be finished! 👍🏼👏😎

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

I agree! Thank you for your comment & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@kevinarmstrong864]

Very fair comparison i find the barrel connector to also be the quickest connection method . I also suffered from sciatica pain it was so bad i was taking 12 extra strength tylenol a day just to survive was going to physiotherapist and that helped but not enough to be pain free she suggested turmeric with curcumin one 550 mg tab per day took about 2 weeks and i noticed the swelling from my low kidney function and pain level was reduced no more pain killers it definitely helped my issues since then i have been pain free 😂 for 6 months. Check with you doctor to see if its safe for you might be helpful but also might not work for you take care

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

I will check that out. Thanks for the suggestion. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@oldbiker9739]

after 45 years as a mechanic it was Kenny that interduce me to metal crimps using heat shrink tubes, mechanics are for getting that the thousands of connections used in modern vehicles use the crimp connection for all the harnesses , no solder

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thank you for your comment. I appreciate you. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@jdesaavedra0432]

I've used all kinds of connectors successfully, including those low-temp solder joints. The solder really needs a heat gun because the flame will burn up the heat shrink long before the solder flows. Keep the flame away from those things because it takes a long time to flow the solder with the insulating properties of the heat shrink. The flame is the wrong method. Yes, those things are junk--but you're handicapping yourself by using a flame.

[@danieldumaine6139]

Great Video. I bought one of those orange/blue strippers and had much the same results. The Klien strippers work all the time; if you have a lot of wires to work with, the fancier strippers are great. I bought a box of those connectors and never used them. I was looking for a way to deal with the thin-gauge wires that are so prevalent in modern vehicles. All these comments are great, and there are lots of things to try.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Danieldumaine6139 It's Mrs Wrenching. Klein never disappoints. I ran the electrical department in a big box store. They were the #1 tool for the job by professionals & DIYers. Thanks for commenting & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@paulnease7077]

I was introduced to these back in the early 90’s. We were allowed to use these on non critical flight control component on helicopters. Because of the cold solder joint connection they were banned for any wire repair shortly after they were introduced to us.

[@paulnease7077]

Critical flight control wires could not be repaired. You had to replace the entire wire or wiring harness for those critical components.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

@paulnease7077 - that is the correct way to do it, for sure. I have seen them fail on steros & car alarms all the time. Thanks for your comment & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@ronlind1757]

Great video Kenny.. thanks for sharing and putting this one together. The convincing argument on the various connector tests is quite simply (for me), is the immediate o.oooo ohm reading on your preferred connector. Definitely the best way to go.

[@David5467]

Thanks kenny. When you are not in so much pain, What would be helpful would be a video on the commonly used gage of wires and crimps used in automotive wiring. When you go buy These crimps the first thing they ask is what gauge do you want.

[@napoleonsmith7793]

Get a good warm up and stretching routine for upper and lower body. Helps a lot doing it daily.

[@napoleonsmith7793]

I use rubber bands with handles

[@Blutnase]

The part where you explain how the metal needs to be heated before the solder is soldering basics. It's the shortest explanation needed to anyone why those connectors are weak.

[@clems6989]

Its all about "APPLICTIONS" Using the correct method per application. And never use these garbage heat solder connectors, they are pure trouble... BTW you need a milliohm meter....

[@render8]

I really think your supposed to use a hot air gun.... But any solder that's supposed to melt before plastic... How good could it possibly be For soldering to properly work the copper has to be hot enough to melt the solder otherwise you get a "cold joint" which will never work.

[@joegillespie-n9z]

Good video, no matter how much demonstrating to prove a point, people will not believe what their eyes are witnessing.

[@leoramirez7811]

I bought a solder kit n never had the confidence to that will work so a am using the old crimping method or old soldering wires

[@simonatkinson1107]

Thanks Kenny, this was really interesting! I've never come across those cold solder tubes but I have had to deal with those 'F' ing blue plastic scotch loks! I had to rewire one of my own car's aftermarket stereos that had them on as well as having 'heated discussions' with people who were planning on using them.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Yea, for whatever reason, aftermarket stero & aftermarket car alarm installers use them all the time. Then the customer ends up at the shop & we have to fix the wiring. I'm glad you were able to complete that repair yourself. Thanks for commenting & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@John-dp3ln]

I have a pack of the solder type connectors, tried them again and followed instructions. Slide connector on one wire, twist the two ends together, slide connector until twisted wires under solder sleeve. I used a lighter, heated the ends of the connector sleeve to lock wires together. Heated the solder sleeve part of the connector until the solder melted and fused wires. Finished heating the rest of the connector and shrank it down. Put 10 amps through connection. It stayed cool and only had .015 mv drop. Good connection. FYI.

[@glennfields8121]

Thank you brother Kenny for the great tutorial of wire connectors. I like your choice method and it seems to be the best. I found this as you said "very interesting'. I hope you and Meg the family and Gigi are enjoying the holiday weekend.

[@davidstark8894]

As I was watching your video another video popped up with the title: Crimpless Butt Connectors- You're Doing It Wrong. He would run one wire all the way through the connector and then twist the two wires together and pull it back to the center before heating the solder. It seemed to work better because he couldn't pull the wires apart. I still wouldn't trust the connection because I have had trouble with these connectors also.

[@jcwindevillose]

Great video Kenny thanks for the instruction

[@alphamegaman8847]

Hey Kenny!👋 Thanks for the data!👍 While "Good Quality" solder connectors, with pre-fluxed, Low melting point solder (less than 350F), with heat-shrink tubing material (FEP, PVDF, PTFE, etc..) that can survive heating the solder up to its melting point without material degradation of the tubing (which can be difficult as ANY heat shrink tubing is going to have Terrible "Thermal Conductivity" properties!) let alone the meltable inner sealing layer, Can be ok for use with 18ga stranded wire (or smaller, as the larger wire gauges will act as a Huge heat sink and make it Damn difficult for that small amount of solder (think thermal mass) to flow into the wire and actually adhere to the wire and provide a Reliable electrical connection) and at a relatively Low current of 5 Amps or less at 12 Volts. Then, Ok, go for it.🤞🙏😁 I seriously doubt that most of the connectors bought by the majority of people purchasing online or at Auto parts stores, come anywhere Close to meeting the criteria listed above. And if Specific procedures must be followed in order to obtain a good result, than it must be Clearly, completely and specifically stated on the packaging to minimize user error.👍 Likely why Kenny has had the experience of, "Works like shit","Works like shit", "Works like shit", "Might be Shit"!😁 Your mileage may vary! But from my perspective after spending 30 plus years in R&D Engineering, in Automotive, Military, Aerospace and Medical Device fields, the CRIMP connection, with good quality adhesive lined heat shrink tubing applied, is the Preferable, more Reliable, Longer Lasting and hopefully, more Idiot-Proof method, if you have the choice!👍 And Yes, I know there will Always be a bigger Idiot to skew the curve, no matter what you do!😁 I have either worked with fellow employees or had customers prove this to be True!🤬 Mike in San Diego.🌞🎸🚀🖖

[@DAK59]

I prefer to solder and use heat shrink tubing. The problem is that most people don't do it correctly. The solder has to flow into the wires. It takes longer but I've never had a failure.

[@1978jra]

Yep same problem with these connectors

[@paulnease7077]

I agree, i wanted to love those low temp solder butt connectors. However, every time i tried to use them they have failed me and caused me more work.

[@KendrasEdge757]

Ahhhh FINALLY!!!! Great stuff brother!! I actually suggested that this would be a great video and you agreed and said you were gonna make one. I didn’t expect it so soon or so long and in depth!!Appreciate this video Kenny!!! 🤙 God bless~ PS: I’m a disabled rated Veteran of OIF-OEF and among a lot of other issues, my knees are shot from OA. For the last few years I’ve been getting Synvisc One injections in both knees every six months. It’s night and day!!! Takes 99% of my knee pain away and my knee popping. If you aren’t getting the HA (hyaluronic acid) injections and getting steroid injections, you’re missing out significantly sir!! Please do some research and speak with your doctor about the synvisc one /monovisc etc there’s different brands of course; but all the same thing. Works great brother!!

[@wallbawden5511]

hay mate retired vet myself have had knee issues ever since and yes those injections were a godsend still are for the right knee the left one sadly sarcom to an infection from a knee replacement and now i learn to walk again YA for me Cheers

[@KendrasEdge757]

Also, you’re doing it wrong brother. Get on KZbin and search: How to Use Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors : by custom dynamics. They show you how to properly heat the connectors. Also, the connectors you have are probably the “Chyna” ones that just aren’t made properly. So I think it’s a combination of technique and the bad solder seal butt connectors. South main auto uses them with no issues whatsoever. I’m not pushing these things, but I think they’re good in certain situations when used properly and using the good connectors made by reputable manufacturers of course. Appreciate the content brother!

[@KendrasEdge757]

@@wallbawden5511Prayin for ya brother! Yeah I tell everyone with knee issues to get the gel injections! I didn’t have a choice as I’m 44 and steroid injections over time will actually cause arthritis and eat away your knee so the VA gave me the gel injections and I get them every 6 months now without fail lol here’s a tip if your doc doesn’t do it already, but have them inject lidocaine into your knee and once they do, unscrew the plunger leaving the needle in your knee, then screw on the synvisc/monovisc onto the needle already in your knee, then inject. You get numbness for a few hours, and only get stuck one time in each knee! The first doc didn’t do that and I felt a lot of pressure, but the second one did and I almost hugged her lol didn’t feel much pressure at all! Appreciate your service brother! Stay safe! God bless~

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Kendra'sEdge757 - I'm getting gel injections now. The steroid injections worked great at first. Thank you for the advice. More importantly, thank you for your service. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

wallbawden5511 - Wow! That is unfortunate. I'm sorry you're going through that. Thank you for your service.

[@anthonybuonagurio-gl9bg]

I've seen other videos from auto sites that love those. I've used them before and never had a problem. Everyone has their own options on them.

[@maxlown363]

when I owned a saw sharpening and power tool repair shop, I often soldered wires for motor fields, motor brush wires, and other wiring harnes issues. I always made sure each individual wire took solder, then then I slid some heatr shrink over one wire, then laid them next to each other, and melted the two together, if that makes sence. A damn tow truck wont pull them apart. I hated crimp connectors. I saw too many of them that customers had put on that had come apart. Shortcuts do not hold up

[@danieldoucet9121]

I'm a Heavy Commercial tech here in Canada (East coast) and work on reefer trailers. The ONLY thing we use to repair wiring is the butt connectors with heat shrink. We use it on lights, the reefer circuits, everything. Solder is not reliable for us, only crimping and sealing with good heat shrink. All the rest is garbage, just as you demonstrated.

[@jeffneumann7274]

Happy Memorial Day Kenny! You are so appreciated.

[@danercole8043]

They work much better if you squeeze the tab first, then fold over the cover.

[@donames6941]

They still cut the wire size down like a 12 to a 18 gauge

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Same to you! Thank you for watching & keep wrenching 🔧

[@walterboard-sf6tb]

Great job sir.

[@rakentrail]

When you solder you should be heating the copper and not the solder. The solder melts before the copper get's hot enough to bond.

[@dmulkearns]

I always twisted the wires together before sliding the solder and shrink the premade ones work fine if done that way

[@mrbigvanlife7130]

I’ve used the low melt connectors many many times and with no problems - using a heat gun. Using a flame you’re melting the plastic without time to get heat into the solder for it to flow - and it does flow really well. You need to change your technique.

[@napoleonsmith7793]

So easy to get a cold solder. There are no solderd connections in cars. So why solder?

[@mrbigvanlife7130]

@@napoleonsmith7793 it’s preference - but original crimps can be bad and once the water and salt gets in you end up with the green crusties. If original crimps were 100% reliable then why are we fixing them all the time?

[@spelunkerd]

Through the years I've been surprised how much skill it takes to perform some simple tasks, in this case with butt connectors. Ultimately a tradesman knows his tools, and knows his skill wheelhouse. The fact that these can be installed badly means that in general use you're going to get a small percentage of failures. A better work flow would choose pathways that take operator skill out of the equation, or at least build in a way to systematically test joint integrity. For these, that means letting the joint cool, then come back with a visual inspection and tug test. If you have to put the time in to do that, are you really saving any time? Is the joint really more reliable if it can be done wrong?

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Excellent points !! I 100% agree with you !!

[@billmalec]

You really concentrated the heat in one spot on those...

[@independentthinker8930]

1st looks like notorious cold solder joints. MAYBE tining the wire before inserting may help

[@jimshepherd4329]

No matter what, soldering wires requires you to have the wire hot for it to bond. This does not happen with these crappy connectors. When you have to go back and re work connections it’s not worth the hassle . I threw a whole box of these in the trash . I will stay with crimp connectors or use real solder and heat to make a good connection.

[@HaroldMetzgar]

It's not all that easy to find good quality wire connectors. When you do find them, they are at a premium price. So, I save them for the 'hard to reach ' areas. For most connections, I slightly fray the wire ends and push them together, with heat shrink ready. Then, I apply a small amount of flux to the wires and start heating the connection as I add solder. Slide the heat shrink in place, add a little heat and I'm done. This method makes a connection you can't pull apart.

[@weighit]

Slightly off topic, but should you need a knee replacement, you should investigate the Jiffy Knee procedure. Much less pain, faster back to normal range of motion and easier to recover. Love your videos and hope your able to feel better.

[@philipsessa2177]

I would love to see the solder heatshrink connectors under load as well, I work at a junk yard and see many vehicles come in with fire damage that started either behind the radio, or headlights. My own conclusion could be folks self installing radios and after market headlights making improper connections. I've recently bought a small kit of those type of connectors, but... Would flux really help? Im 50/50 on it, since the wires them self are Not getting heated up. So, will the solder even flow into non heated flux? I would like to see. Thanks Kenny.

[@daverichards190]

I use those low temp solder connectors with good success, I do not use them where there will be tension on the wires, but I do not have them pulling apart when I get them applied. It takes patience for the solder to melt and flow properly without burning through the heat shrink. They are not the answer for all connections, and if I only could have one type of connector, I would go with the marine style butt connector. Thankfully we have choices. As a side note I use the first connectors in hard to access places.

[@KendrasEdge757]

Exactly. His technique is completely wrong. He never melts the solder completely. Not to mention there’s a lot of companies making these and some are crap and others are better. Of course these aren’t going to hold tight like it’s one piece of wire, but neither are butt connectors lol. We have choices and people don’t have to like everything; but these have a place I believe, but not for everything.

[@sirmister4411]

It’s great how all the haters have a channel to show your how wrong you are and they how much non experience they have ! They all live in their mother’s basement and their only job is to belittle people it makes them feel better about themselves. Keep up the great work Kenny. 👍👍

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thanks for watching & commenting on the channel. Meg always says 'haters gonna hate'. I just wish they would hate less loudly. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@kidkv]

Use a torch or a lighter, you can melt regular solder with a lighter. P.S don't have both hands on both leads on the DMM

[@Dave-ty2qp]

My time as an aircraft mechanic 1962-2017 we saw less and less sordering to the point where it is hardly ever used anymore and for the same reasons you point out, plus the process orosion it causes.

[@glennfields8121]

By the way, congratulations on the window air conditioner...you deserve it!!

[@donames6941]

I dont like sold contactors, but i use the others and shrink tubing. Also, look at the contracters. you see a split in the tubing. Make sure it's on top or the bottom of your joint, not the side. When you use a head light bulb use a temp reader to see if it heats up the joint

[@Keepithonest7]

Keep wrenching, great content.

[@Sctronic209]

Wonder if you put rosin on the wires first would help

[@marcwire9332]

Please can you do this test with some flux paste and without flux, but using a heat gun.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

I can & I will as soon as I get a minute. Thanks for the suggestion & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@simike24]

Do a video on splicing the wires instead of using connectors. Back in the 80s and 90s I worked for a dealer and they wouldent allow us to use connectors while installing alarms. We were only allowed to splice the wires and use electrical tape. I dont remember seeing heat shrink until much later on in my career.

[@terrymax5340]

Used the ones that cut through the wire before. Never could get them to work right .

[@jeepinintexas6215]

Lawrence Tollman aka LT, promoted those garbage solder sticks lol. Wonder if he still does.

[@somebodyelse836]

I use wirefly crimper and connectors

[@oldbiker9739]

don't know how many wiper circuit board for wipers and other systems that failed because of factory cold solder circuit boards that all I did was hot solder it and it worked . dash board circuits tail light circuit any thing with a cold circuit board I have fixed ,

[@simike24]

Hope your knee and back feel better.

[@Michael-yi4mc]

I like to crimp right on the seam of the connector. The impression is on the joints of the connector.

[@merrillschaps2325]

Raymond Ray's Auto Repair always uses the terminal connectors that have solder in them and never had an issue as long at the connection wasn't near heat like catalytic converters, engine blocks, cooling system, and exhaust manifolds. I think you're using too much heat on the solder. I have used a heat gun on the solder but connectors and never had an issue. Also, you should also heat shrink the whole connector and it would not come apart.

[@RobertYonng]

The problem is when soldering your supposed to heat the wire first and then flow the solder into the wires so those connectors will never work.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Exactly!

[@Michael-yi4mc]

You have to be adult to watch this show, because it contains strippers.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

😂

[@philipsessa2177]

🤣

[@67cudaksa34]

i find the cheap plastic cover butt joint connectors and the solder tubes, the lazy way. uou do not see any of the car companies or trailer manufacturers using these.

[@Sillyturner]

If you are going to do that why not just buy the crimp connectors to start with?

[@67cudaksa34]

@@Sillyturner I do. I use the same techniques that I would you on my boat.

[@ianrimmer1968]

You should’ve twisted the wires together before putting it through the connector. Also should use flux on the wire before soldering. I’ve done that with these connectors, and never had a problem with them.

[@bobby9195]

Howdy Mr Kenny, how's it going? It's been rainy here and late last night it came a real gully washer lol poured. But when the sun peaks through it gets Hot! 😮 Happy memorial day sir

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Where are you located? We had a huge storm roll in around 930 last night in Burlington NC. We were sitting by the fire pit & it came in quick. I hope you have a good day today. Keep wrenching, brother 🔧

[@bobby9195]

@@WrenchingWithKenny Mr Kenny, I am in slayden Tennessee. Middle TN about 6 hours from Haywood county NC. That's where I am originally from

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Good morning @bobby9195 You have had some fun with the crazy thunder storms & pouring rain too ☔️ At least we got through the daylight without drama here. I hope you are having a good day.

[@bobby9195]

@@WrenchingWithKenny yep, Mr Kenny we made it through the crazy thunder storms lol😹 Y'all be sure and have a wonderful day. Hello Miss Meg😀

[@d46512]

Devil's advocate on the Low temperature solder connectors: try adding some flux before you insert the wires

[@deanbrown5800]

Doesn't the actual wire have to heat up when soldering ? I always "tin" the wire and use heat shrink. 😊

[@robinsonsmotorcycleandauto3929]

You apparently don't know how to use the Solder seal sleeves. You twist the wires together first and have to use a heat gun and these are recommend by a couple OE'S for certain repairs.

[@welshwizard822]

It's the operator not the product. Used properly they work fine

[@ericknutson602]

Kenny, it's not you it's the quality of the connector.

[@MaverickandStuff]

With those heat shrink solder connectors, you need to use a actual heat gun. That little heat gun/soldering iron is too hot, and does not produce enough hot air. Just like with soldering, the wire itself needs to get to the same temp as the melted solder. I would never use these, and they will not work without a proper heat gun.

[@seemooreb.9724]

32:08 the side with melted red ring held

[@andrewholecek5256]

Love your videos but... Your using the wrong crimp pliers on those red, yellow and blue connectors. Using the right pliers will not pierce the jacket.

[@carsten4594]

Just crimp the center instead of melting it. Problem solved!😅

[@on-site4094]

I believe There are different grades of those solder connectors. Including marine grade When China starts releasing products u know there quality is

[@stevewhite3424]

Thank you. You posted that right before I was going to Folk, there is a difference between high-grade aircraft or marine quality materials and those you buy off-the-shelf at Harbor freight or Lowe's. We all complain about the low quality chinesium parts, but think nothing about considering the grade of the connectors and materials that were using. A mill standard solder sleeve connector might cost 25 cents as compared to 3 cents, but after you spent 3 hours troubleshooting that wire chafe next to the transmission to then go cheap on the material you're using to make the repair? Doesn't make sense, does it? American made components from solid American sources such as aircraft spruce, and many other sources. We'll go a long way to removing some of the frustration involved with using these materials. Unfortunately, the proper use of these materials also requires the use of proper tools which sometimes cost upwards of 25 bucks. 😊 For those that don't trust crimped connectors of various styles don't forget that every airplane you get on or that flies over your head has literally thousands of crimped connectors in it 😊 Terminating and interconnecting wires is one of those things that seems simple but in reality can be more complicated than you think. If you were really kind of interested , there is an document called IPC-620 that goes deeper into the details of wiring.

[@MudBone827]

New mic only putting out on left, no right side audio!