Why Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors FAIL!

[@LouinVB]

I worked avionics for over 45 years before retiring. The avionics grade method was to use uninsulated butt end crimps with a separate piece of heat shrink such as the TE Connectivity D-436-37 Blue Environmental Butt Splice heat shrink. Using uninsulated crimps has two advantages. Firstly, it allows you to see the condition of the mechanical crimp prior to heat shrinking. Also, it eliminates the risk of damage to the heat shrink when crimping. It's a better method all around.

[@michaelkrenzer3296]

It does have ONE limitation...you gotta have space for the separate heat shrink. I have seen a number of Eric O's repairs where that would be hard (rarely impossible) to come by.

[@davidpotter7484]

I prefer that way, it looks cleaner. I personally do it both ways, but i wont fall out of the sky and die.

[@KAMNC]

That's how Wrenching with Kenny does it.

[@Jacksonkellyfreak]

I always used that method as well, and was taught that in A&P school, but now airlines are getting more and more approval to use these with the caviat of calibrating the crimp tools a little more frequently

[@simpleman5238]

I solder all my connections then heat shrink it.

[@JenkinsLocks]

Everything is junk if you don't use it correctly. Always appreciate your common sense approach.

[@jamescaron6465]

100%

[@RobertL78]

Every machine is a smoke machine if you operate it incorrectly enough.

[@weldingjunkie]

@@RobertL78I don’t get it

[@jormalonnberg1578]

@@weldingjunkie Short your weldingmachine, by stick rod and not taking it of, or in mig weld short nozzle , and let it be there, and you find out. And sorry if my writing is defeckt and incorrect, because english is my third language, and also not so much used in written mode.

[@weldingjunkie]

@@jormalonnberg1578 that’s ok that’s why I asked. I get what you mean now. If you don’t take care of stuff def ends up having issues. I thought he meant making a smoke machine lol

[@scubasteve06]

The ratcheting crimp tool is 100% worth the investment, easy on the hands and you get the correct amount of squeeze every time.

[@billynomates920]

same as the knippex strippers. i mean i do fine with the basic tool or even a box knife and pliers but if you are doing a hundred a day instead of one or two the ratchet tools are like crack. once you try them, you ain't going back.

[@302vettelife2]

Agreed and to Erics point, there is a reason they sell ones for insulated and non insulated connectors. Unfortunately, you either have to get two tools or the tool with the interchangeable dies.

[@SirHeadly84]

I bought some racheting ones and I hate them. It's a dual jaw and should do the job. But it doesn't. Usually only gets one wire and then the crimp is trash😂.

[@rbhe357]

I still prefer the Snapons, or in my case, the same thing for half price Carlyle. Especially when standing on your head trying to crimp something that's buried under a dash or in a door panel. Having the crimpers up front on narrow pliers is super useful. Just know what you're doing.

[@scotts4125]

I don't see a die for smaller gauge white connector. I looked on their site and the kit doesn't seem to have one. I have one of these not sure of the brand but never used it. I have all the dies and bought an extra one for the 90* flag connectors. You see those on 24v HVAC applications. I haven't used butt connectors in years. I'm a solder and heat shrink guy. Going to order some of these. If anyone finds a die for the smaller gauge please point me to it. Most of these tool less interchangeable crimpers can use the same 1 of 2 die styles.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Ratchet crimper all the way here. I find it perplexing when people just mash crimps with some random tool.

[@nickvogel7934]

Every car audio "installer" needs to watch this.

[@volvo09]

Oh God. Nothing like pulling a radio out and seeing a massive was of 20 of those tulip / "princess dress" style crimp connectors, and those blue squeeze style instant wire taps.

[@OtisFlint]

And every company that builds trailers. Every trailer I've bought here in the rust belt is with the t-taps and open connections. It lasts a year before you have to go through it and make proper connections.

[@volvo09]

@@OtisFlint yes, trailers are terrible! Even from the factory.

[@billynomates920]

maybe not exo contralto 😄

[@chuckmiller5763]

I went to Rockford Tech. 1991 and were taught how to connect wires, there are no solder connections on vehicles from the factory, Were were never allowed to use scotch locks. Sometimes an equipment manufacturer recommended soldering and we would follow their recommendations.

[@comporangegt]

The way we were taught at Ford training is the way you described in the video. We would use the bare barrel connectors and use the ratcheting crimpers from OTC. Then we would slide the heat shrink over the splice. The trainers at Ford said that this is the best way to go and if you ever get any pigtails from Ford, they send it with the barrels and heat shrink.

[@upptowne]

This is a good how-to. As an older self taught hot rodder, my test was, "pull on it" if it did not come apart it was good to go. Thanks again.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Took me trial by fire to learn this about 7 or so years ago! I was crushing the things with the pointy crimper part (uninsulated), and saw vehicles or trailers I had done with electrical problems because of it! All the years I wrenched on cars, it took that long to figure that out, lol. Live and learn!!

[@KMT15]

I always slide an adhesive lined heat shrink over the heat shrunk butt splice as well.

[@420xwaytoomanyx420]

Good boy

[@PhillipBailey]

Ive been using the shrinkable but connections for years and i agree its all about the crimp. Ive seen many fail due to piercing the insulation during the crimp. On most current situations i find the red are too big. Pico makes a smaller clear one but its quite delicate. Ive switched to seamless uninsulated but sleeves and heat shrink for more critical circuits. They are also less bulky. Good video!

[@scubasteve06]

I agree on the red splices being too big in a lot of cases. Have you found any ratcheting crimpers that are specifically designed for the smaller clear butt splices?

[@major__kong]

If you have length to spare, strip double or triple the length and fold the wire over once or twice to bulk it up for crimping.

[@PhillipBailey]

@scubasteve06 no I haven't and as I said they are pretty easily damaged during crimping. I've started using uninsulated splices with heat shrink.

[@PhillipBailey]

@major__kong yes good idea.

[@Nudnik1]

As a salt water marine mechanic since 1979 I agree 👍💯 I put anticorrosion compound on copper in crimps before crimp and shrink Put liquid electric tape over it Best is to solder and shrink wrap critical connection like bilge pump wires etc . Also in crimp place metal seam in correct position in tool so connector metal folds in to itself during crimp . Usually seam goes away from point on tool

[@jerryfaircloth]

I would have to second that. On salt water boat connections I always solder and use marine grade heat shrink with the interior adhesive coating. Otherwise eventually they will fail.

[@snapperboat25]

As a former marine surveyor and someone who has spent a good bit of time in the rust belt there is little difference between the marine environment and the salt issues in snowy areas. In fact the salt issues in the rust belt are probably worse due to the salt being pure and being forced throughout the vehicle due to road spray. Following marine procedures in the rust belt is a good idea. Soldering on boats is a big point of contention in the marine industry due to vibration of boats under power causing failure due to the hardness of the solder. I personally never found a failed solder connection on any boat in 25 years of surveying.

[@TheOtherBill]

NO-OX-ID A-Special. Coat it good, then heat it up and let it flow. Good for 40 years IME. Also prevents any sort of corrosion on battery terminals.

[@okopnik]

Ha - another salt water mechanic! 😉 Yeah, the ocean teaches you to do it the right way, every time.

[@okopnik]

@@snapperboat25 Oh, DUDE. I could tell you endless stories about soldered connections gone bad - including a Gozzard 50 where I had to rewire *the entire panel* precisely because those connections (all soldered) had broken loose. Poor soldering, unsecured harnesses, no drip loops... that boat's electrical system was a nightmare (well, mostly for the owner.) We were both headed for the Caribbean, and in every harbor where I crossed paths with this guy, he had yet another job for me. ☺

[@jormalonnberg1578]

This is good learning video, for those "idiots" who think, what ever tool crimp it is enough. Or whatever style of connector i use. But in real life, its also lesson for people, learn How and when, use that new tool or thing you got, cheap or expensive, juts learn how they perform when used right way.

[@802Garage]

I use Haisstronica crimps as well. They are greay. I crimp with an IWISS/iCrimp ratcheting crimper specifically for insulated connectors. The crimps can always hold up to significant pulling force. So far, I have never had a failure. The crimpers with square flat jaws are the best for this style of crimp. It's all about using the right tools for the job as well as having a well tested and repeatable process.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Exactly

[@ronaldclark1178]

I really like the bare metal barrel crimps with marine grade heat shrink. They seem to work better for me. Thanks for the video because it's always nice to know how to do something correctly the first time!

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

I agree... separately applied sealing heat-shrink over a proper crimp or soldered connection.

[@kevinfergusson8239]

I have worked with crimp connectors for many years. If you use the correct crimp tool for the correct colour then all is good. Great video and explanation.😊

[@mac1os191]

This is true about the terminals should have designed tool for it. Especially that this is very precise job. According to heating the shrink tube, there is no go for open flame. It should by only hot gun used. The burnt insulation could appear.

[@BellaRocko]

Thank you, Eric. Just so happens that I've been needing to do this quite a lot recently due to rodents chewing my wires. Thanks so much for sharing!

[@iFixJunk]

Thanks for posting this. Been beating that drum myself for a while. Attention to detail is the difference between a tech and a hack.

[@harryworkshop4001]

Thanks for the information, never too old to learn something new. First time since using crimpers that I knew there was a right tool for the job, have always been using the crimpers that left the dimples. Thanks again.

[@kkutube1972]

Having the right tools, love it.

[@SimpleElectronics]

I used those for years but these days I find myself fixing a lot of 28 awg and even lighter on newer Fords - so I have switched to uninsulated butt splices and double wall 3:1 heat shrink with the resin seal - it ends up being cheaper and I only need to keep a few sizes of heat shrink in my kit now and I find I get a better crimp and don't have to be concerned about damaging the heat shrink. also if you need your repair not to chafe, you can put a large piece of heat shrink over it and then ziptie that. Either way, we're all working to the same goal!

[@jeffbeard395]

It shows that you care, and your quality repairs are even in the little details.

[@marcshaner3658]

Awhile back I purchased the exact same brand butt connectors and the matching crimper. Hands down the best I’ve ever owned. If you support this company I must have made a wise choice, I suppose even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while. As always, great information.

[@Northernstar9370]

Taking a good look at the results and adjusting your method goes a long way. I noticed the same problem with my Mac (identical to the SnapOn) crimpers and no more issues once i watched closer what i was doing.

[@sfbfriend]

Here's my 2C, We used Butt connectors like that for years in aircraft harness's, we didn't crimp at all! But you were required to strip each end and tin the lead on both ends then clean off any flux residue, line up both ends inside the splice so the wires are on top of each other, then shrink with a heat gun that had an adapter on the nozzle, heat the piece till the solder flow's and the ends are sealed. This was an inspected piece conforming to the Weapon Spec, which I don't remember the number now, haven't done those in many moons. That is how, in manufacturing a harness we HAD to do it. Never had a failure that I am aware of! You do you, it works great.

[@michaelkrenzer3296]

"We used Butt connectors like that" No, you did not. Those are not crimp and seal connectors. If you did the attachment as you described with crimp and seal it would fail. Solder and seal connectors are a whole different animal. The high spec ones are super convenient and nice to use, but near impossible these days to find . The retail ones are still convenient but few (so far) in my experience hold up in environments where temps are consistently over 130f.

[@davidpotter7484]

@@michaelkrenzer3296 fastenal still carries the solder seal connectors. Bought them accidentally once.

[@robertheinkel6225]

As a retired crew chief in the Air Force, no butt connectors were allowed. We had to replace the wire or harness

[@johnschreiber2504]

That is interesting, but not a butt connection, as the wires overlap. (a lap, rather than butt joint) Where soldering in aviation, such as terminals for a radio installation RE: solder, Tin conductor for about half its exposed length. This is enough to take advantage of the closed part of solder cup. Tinning or solder on wire above the cup causes wire to be stiff at point where flexing takes place. This will result in wire breakage. Today we mostly use crimped connectors.

[@keithstudly6071]

@@robertheinkel6225 That's because you were a "Crew Chief" and not a repair depot. Depot or manufacturer will document damage and do an approved repair and tag part as repaired. Be glad you didn't have to do these things in the field.

[@shinyredcobra]

I love these educational workshops, keep them coming Mr O!

[@patrickmcneilly4293]

Two years ago I bought a new turn signal, however it wasn't wired correctly. The turn signal came on at the same time as the parking lights, so I tore it apart and soldered the wires to their correct places. As for the heat shrink, I packed it full of vintage dielectric grease and used my soldering iron as a heat source to seal it up. It's worked great since!

[@michaelbrady9056]

Very good video! I do these the same (marine work) and have found that a tiny bit of schmoo (dielectric grease, Corrosion-X, etc) on the wire end before sliding the crimp on improves your chances even more. The crimps must have adhesive shrink tube, ie seeing a little ring of goo around the edge once you've heated. Also - I vote for a heat gun with the curved deflector attachment - good if there's wind involved, and helps protect adjacent wiring and other surfaces.

[@TheSandman614]

Thanks for the quick video! I have found that with any of the Jungle Site connectors the quality control isn't very good, some connectors in the batch just don't hold well. I seem to have better luck with an uninsulated connector and a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink.

[@Availablehandle-i1k]

I love the "Ideal" brand yellow handled crimps, even better than the Klines. The insulated crimp area is right up top under the snip portion, and not at the bottom. 90% of my everyday crimping is going to be on an insulated connector. The small snapons are really nice also but not for anything bigger than a 10-12 connector ✌🏼 Thanks Eric! Great video as always

[@LuisGonzalez-jh3um]

Great topic bro, I’m always trying to perfect my crimping style and it depends on the gauge of the wire. I use my knipex mini wrench pliers to crimp since they don’t penetrate the shielding. Here in California there’s not much salt or moisture but I try to be profesional in every crimp.

[@garyradtke3252]

Glad to see an accurate public service announcement for the correct use of the sealed crimp fittings. only thing we use in the marine industry. At least where I work and have worked.

[@donmunro144]

I have had good luck using the channel lock brand crimper. Depending on the application, I go one step further and put a piece of shrink tubing over the repair. Especially on my semi trailer lights.

[@FoxHole345]

Having done work in upfitting police cars, these are the only things used. I will say this much, they work great given the fact that you pointed out - you use the correct tool. The best one I found other than ratcheting tools is the Klein Tools brand that you can get at any Lowe’s or Home Depot. It can handle yellow if you use your noodle. But blue and red connectors, you can squeeze the tool as hard as you can and it won’t ever over crimp. It’s a more round profile and performs just as well as the ratcheting tool for red and blue imo.

[@cruze1953]

I did police and fire vehicle up-fitting for 14 yrs when all of the lighting was quartz halogen very high amperage. No way would the insulated connectors work they literally turned black from heat. I used non-insulated, crimped, then soldered, then shrink-wrapped and ty-wrapped for strain relief. The 100-200 watt sirens pulled close to 20 amps.

[@gregorythomas333]

I used to hate crimp connectors for the exact reasons Eric mentioned...until I purchased proper crimper tools...now I love them :)

[@davez4172]

The ratcheting crimpers are what I use in my home shop. Those first two are good for the tool box in your truck to get you home from the boat ramp when your trailer lights aren't working( once home, replace). Otherwise, I don't use 'em. I used AMP terminals and crimpers at work for a variety of connections. I was trained in their use. That knowledge translates to any manufacturer but you do often get what you pay for. Those marine grade splices/terminals are awesome. The ratcheting crimpers with the proper dies will actually weld the wire to the barrel of the splice/terminal.

[@craigsparton]

So funny you posted this today, last Friday I fixed an 09 Yukon with a P2135 (TPS 1 & 2 correlation). Someone had replaced the throttle body and connector and used the same connectors with the peg type crimper. Took huge chunks out of the plastic where it was crimped and it was green and corroded. Of course the excessive resistance skewed the TPS sensor readings and threw the P2135. I didn't take a chance of that one and just soldered and used heat shrink, though a properly applied crimp connector would have been fine too. And I love my ratcheting crimper! One of the best tools I ever bought for wiring repairs.

[@melvingibson4525]

Never knew this about these. Ive mostly used butt connectors due to the risk of fire in the field that I work in but have always just put liquid electrical tape all over it for security. We can't use heat guns or lighters. Learned proper crimping method from this video thanks

[@montestu5502]

I was always using the non insulated crimping portion until you brought it up previously. I thought it would give a tighter crimp!

[@OldePhart]

I have those "proper" crimpers from decades ago when they were made by Amphenol (AMP) and the jaws are interchangeable, Mine even has jaws for 4 and 6 pin phone connectors... when those were relevant... . They also had a nice set of jaws I lost that has a ball bearing as the crimping anvil and didn't puncture the nylon insulation as you demonstrated. But they are big. Appreciate ya Eric.

[@clintprice2123]

Eastwood makes a pair of ratcheting crimpers that grab from the front when there isn’t enough wire or room to get it from the side. I saw them at their local store here and bought them for just those times like u see the dashboard. Nice demonstration as always Eric!

[@stevefortune4315]

Great video. My father was a electrician. He explained this to me exactly as you have. Great information all techs should know.

[@stevefortune4315]

To each there own. I used to do the bare crimp and double wall shrink tubeing. Takes much more time plus you need more wire space available. Both seel well if done correctly. I have also used shrink crimps with sadder in them. Also worked well.

[@aaronkoivu]

⁠​⁠@@stevefortune4315Chrysler engineering has issued at tip tech 20 years ago, brass crimps, solder and the Chrysler heat shrink tubes to seal everything

[@gsftom]

I have probably watched 20 videos on connecting wires and seem to learn something new every time. Learned something new on this one. Seems like crimping would be easy to do right, but it’s not.

[@vtwrench1]

Like a everyone else here , I’ve tried them all , my best solution is to solder the ends before inserting into any type of connector. Been in the trucking business for along time and those tree branches do a number on the trailer lights. Those Doyle crimpers from HF work pretty nice.

[@MarcS-mp1je]

I frequent flea markets and garage sales . Many moons ago I found Thomas and Betts crimpers and wire strippers made in Elizabeth New Jersey, good ol ‘murica made stuff . From the first time that I put them in my hands, I knew right away that they were excellent quality tools.(we all know a good quality well made hand tool by the feel of it),years later and hundreds if not thousands of crimps later I haven’t looked back. Thomas and Betts combined with a pair of older Ideal stripmasters are basically all that I use now and never had a failure,

[@springfield4522]

I started using them to replace the scotch locks on my trailer. Yup bought one of those $10 butane lighters too. Thanks Mr O.

[@quicktastic]

Nice. Having worked more than 30 years in the electronics industry, I can not even count how many times I've seen failures (of all varieties) because people didn't know what they were doing. In my initial training class with the company I worked for, the instructors spent a lot of time going over connections. The types, the tools, the proper way etc.. This video gave me a flashback to that lol. I still recall the instructor saying "this is what people will do and it is why it will fail". What you are saying here is correct. Of course, the discussion of what type of connection to use in various environments is a long one and there not just one answer. Many times, the best solution is not practical or possible. Just make certain that, whatever method you use, you actually know how to do it properly.

[@ghodgeco]

And if you wanna make your life even easier, put the connector in your pliers FIRST, grip lightly, insert wire and squeeze. It's a lot less fumbling around.

[@chipsawdust5816]

Also give the wire a little twist to make sure all the strands get inside the connector.

[@stu8575]

A lot of people may not like these kind of connectors, BUTT, I would say the way you show to install them should work great!

[@osvaldocristo]

OMG! It is so obvious AFTER your demo! Thanks for share.

[@JohnDoesGarage]

I really don't have a favorite or preferred method for making connections. It really depends on several factors. Where are you making the connection? Is it easy to access with plenty of room or is it a PITA where you have very little room? What is the environment, like will it be soaking in salt water constantly? Regardless of the method, crimp and seal, non-insulated or solder with shrink wrap, make sure you perform your chosen connection properly. Be proficient in all methods of making connections and you will always be able to make a good connection, which is the end goal in my humble opinion. You demonstrated how to make a flawless crimp and seal connection. Thank you for another very informative video. No matter how long I've been spinning wrenches I never stop reviewing basic repairs because somebody always has a better way to do it.

[@robc5955]

Thank you Mr O I’ve rarely had to do them, but knackered them every time, now I know why.

[@mikeberry304]

In the 80's in the UK, we crimped a metal terminal with crimp tool , then slid insulated sleeve over the crimp on male and female terminal connections, these are as you say great if you crimp correctly, great video for plenty people thanks Eric ❤

[@Sundancer268]

I like to use adhesive lined heat shrink and bare metal connectors along with my heat gun. I have a set of ratcheting crimpers with interchangeable jaws for all the current styles of connectors. Never had a failure in the northern Michigan lake effect area where minimum of salt is used.

[@tony-ps4qw]

I am a big fan of "do it right the first time" thanks for the lesson!

[@G31mR]

Good advice. I like your wedding band. I use....after decades of dealing with a gold one.....a silicon band and I love it. Comfortable, safe, cool/black.

[@2nickles647]

Never wore a wedding band. No need for it. 😅😅

[@ppeters480]

Great video, I actually just got that better crimper earlier this year, been using that red one for years

[@miles11we]

This is one of those things that gets me to read instruction even if im 98% sure it wont have any info i dont already know. Id totally crimp those wrong and not even think about it

[@olspanner]

I'm ancient, so I still use solder. Great info in any case. Thank you Eric.

[@toddhazell925]

I've been taught that when using crimp connectors or terminals is to look down into the terminal and see where the open end of the part to be crimped and have that facing either side of the crimping tool so that it flattens it out better and gives a tighter crimp.

[@oscarjones5773]

I actually really needed this right now. Thank you for this video! I’m the worst with this type of repair!

[@MrAPCProductions]

Had good luck with the recent solder in the connector versions that I see advertised often from other channels. Hold up well and no crimp perforation to worry about.

[@johncooper4637]

One of my jobs at one time was calibrating crimpers. Hand held crimpers were calibrated once a year and the test crimps were measured with special micrometers.

[@LouJustlou]

Thanks for crimp class and allowing me to bask in the glow of the internet on fire this morning. 😊 Going to be 96 here today....not blaming you though. 😊

[@jeffl4810]

Im an EE and 100% agree with your video! Seen those poke-holes massively corrode. Even worse, is once corrosion starts, the corrosive salt is entrapped under the poke-hole. Personally, I strip and twist together, with a piece of double wall (adhesive lined) heat shrink. I usually solder the connection, which is typically 1/2" long, but is wire guage dependent, especially for larger wires. Also making sure the solder doesn't wick far into the wire under the insulation, as that will cause a potential break point if flexed in that spot. I've done thousands of wires like this, and never a failure. Even salt water marine boat trailers, notorious for monthly electrical issues never have a problem with connections that I've done. Unsealed butt connectors in a wet environment, and especially in a salty water wet environment with DC power applied, hilariously corrode and the metal disintegrates into usually green crust, staining its surroundings. Seen one in a boat bilge the other day, that literally disintegrated overnight, as it got submerged the day before.

[@paulnease7077]

I have learned the value of a good wire repair crimp. I had an issue with my 2017 suburban the temp sending unit went out. The plug broke trying to remove it. So i found these wire connectors with low heat melt solder inside. We i thought this is going to be easy to replace the plug. I was wrong it made a horrible connection and caused more issues. Driving me to go back in and repair my work. When i went remove the harness tape the connector came apart. This was causing an intermittent signal for the temp sending unit. Driving the computer insane. Do it right the first time, that is my new Moto..

[@horrovac]

Absolutely correct. (Good) crimp connections are superior in almost every situation, and particularly in applications with a lot of vibration, and thereby, in automotive. I don't get why people think soldering is better. I guess that to car people, unfamiliar with it, it appears a bit like a dark art and therefore desirable, whereas electricians rather avoid it. Kinda like manual gearbox cars, which Americans tend to overthink vastly and consider top skill, whereas elsewhere your grandma uses a manual in her shopping runabout as a matter of course. The crimp-and-seal connectors are a bit of a convenience compromise, though. Definitely good enough, but - as others said - uninsulated crimp connectors with glue-lined heatshrink are probably better. I definitely recommend ratcheting crimp pliers, they apply very high pressure and make strong and consistent crimps without requiring much force.

[@DaddyBeanDaddyBean]

In a lecture on wiring for a high school robotics team, an engineer from GE Transportation (building locomotives) made the same point about using the correct part of the crimper per the color of the connector, but he also said to put two 1/8" crimps side by side, on each wire being connected (so 4 total per connector). GE uses an expensive fancy crimper that does two side by side crimps at once, but those of us with $20 crimpers can just do 2 side by side the old fashioned way. I've been doing it for ten years now and never had one pull loose.

[@cruze1953]

Or just use a crimper that has does a single 1/4in long dimple. That is actually more effective compared to a double 1/8in crimp with a space in between when you think about it?

[@Evo_Spec]

I just installed mine incorrectly on two different projects I'm working on. Looks like I gotta go correct my mistake in the morning. Thanks for the info!

[@ShainAndrews]

That's why I use non insulated terminals, and quality lined heat shrink. Full control over the entire process.

[@jdelbrid]

Thanks Eric. That was an excellent tutorial on butt-connectors. From this, I have derived that I've done a bunch of them wrong. Fortunately it only affects me.

[@A-Aron564]

Absolutely love your videos man but I’ll still always go with solder and shrink tube

[@jochenstacker7448]

I recently put a rearview camera, four new speakers and central locking in my car. If I didn't have a butt-load of butt connectors and crimper, I'd still be soldering wires. And that stripping tool is the absolute dog's bollocks. I could not live without it. I will never strip wires with a knife, my teeth or side cutters ever again.

[@andygirke846]

Eric, Crimp and Seal always works half the time all the time. Its what I use all the time,Half the time Nailed It Brother!!

[@onearmy942]

Thank you for this! A simplistic and thorough explanation.

[@frankstavalo5788]

At this shop we use uninsulated barrels and use glue tape heat shrink over by it and 3 foot lengths and cut it to the size that best works for that application. When properly done there are no issues.

[@shadowdog500]

I switched to Ancor marine grade wire and connectors decades ago when I saw how well it performed in my salt water boat.

[@major__kong]

I use milspec aviation terminals and marine grade wire unless it's an airplane and then I use milspec wire. The terminals are probably the same, but the wire insulation is different for aviation being better in a fire and being mechanically tougher for abrasion resistance.

[@michaelkrenzer3296]

I love crimp and seal connectors. I find some of the blue ones (ring and spade in particular) will not shrink down enough to seal correctly so I add a short length of heat shrink to the insulated area first. This is particularly true of newer 22 AWG wires and their metric equivalents for communications busses. I do carry the solder and seal connectors on the motorcycle for long trips as it only requires a lighter to install in a pinch. They can work but we had a lot fail in warm environments under the hood of the race car when we did field expedient repairs just to finish a race.

[@artemovsk1]

I've used the ratcheting crimpers and the pressure applied to the crimp definitely varies depending on how many conductors are inside the crimp in the first place. This can cause the crimp to pull apart if there aren't enough conductors inside the crimp. This is why I always do a tug test on the crimp before heat shrinking, and I stopped using the ratcheting crimper as well. With normal crimpers I can get a fairly consistent crimp pressure that works regardless of the fullness of the butt connector I am trying to crimp.

[@donniev8181]

Experience plays a factor in all of this as well. I used to do commercial electrical work, and you can physically gauge how hard you need to crimp something in order to not destroy the connection. However, youtube masters don't like talking about real-world experience. Thanks Eric, will definitely be buying some to add to my toolbox. Which color do you use the most for vehicles?

[@SouthMainAuto]

Red and blue 👍🏼

[@donniev8181]

@SouthMainAuto thanks! I recently purchased a brand new Toyota, so hopefully, I will not have to work on my own car for 6 or 7 years, which is weird to think about lol.

[@tookitogo]

@@donniev8181 The color indicates the wire gauge range, so you match it to the wire you are connecting.

[@robertdavis6708]

Yep, this is the place to learn an everyday crimping experience. I learn something new everyday working with Eric.

[@Micko350]

Eric even though we don't have the same problems over here with the 'Green Crustys' that you have I rarely ever use Butt Connectors & when I do, I tend to always go for the non insulated crimp on the insulated connector due to how they fail. I almost always go for Solder & Heat Shrink!

[@miketeeveedub5779]

In my +40 years of crimping connectors to wire, that ratcheting crimper is a GODSEND! I think how many times I had to redo and replace a terminal connection because I was unable to get a proper crimp with those crappy old school thin pliers-type crimpers. Like Eric said; they're inexpensive and they work like magic. Get one today even if you only use it a couple of times a year. It pays for itself just for piece of mind they offer!

[@martinsechrist1393]

Im glad I watched this. It makes me sad, but I am glad that I will be doing it right in the future.

[@boondock6055]

Very good thanks, haven't even thought of damaging the insulation

[@KO-pk7df]

Great info, found them on Amazon. As a kit W/tools or separate for a great price.

[@daniellopez9418]

I use a full map-pro torch to shrink the heat shrinks when I use them. I mainly use then on 10 awg wire outside though.

[@laurenhoward8397]

I just learned something. Thank you. When a connector I spliced in the past goes bad prematurely, now I’ll know why. Going forward I will do it right.

[@ED-ti5tc]

Been using the those connectors for years. Love them. But I been using the wrong crimpers! I gotta go get the right ones now! Lol Thanks

[@bobweiss8682]

Using the proper tooling is the key to making proper crimped connections. I work in the electronics field, and have accumulated an entire toolbox drawer full of nothing but various crimping and pin extraction tools for all the different types of connectors I work with.

[@mattmurdock4336]

As someone who did nothing but emissions and electronic diag I have found a nice compromise. I have a smooth jaw ratcheting crimper that will not damage the heat shrink. AND I have found butt connectors called "multi-link" that are good quality crimp and seal but with a small band of solder inside that helps with corrosion down the road.

[@Bearith]

Great video, Eric. Thanks for showing us how you do it! It's great that you show us the right way to do things. Love your channel!

[@Wayne-Jones]

Bad workmen always blame their tools, in BA we have a different crimp tool for every crimp type, their specifically designed to be used only for that size/type crimp and wire, and not only crimp perfectly but only release once the correct crimp pressure has been applied. We generally use “Amp”crimp tools expensive but really good. Another good lesson Mr O 👍

[@sfbfriend]

In aircraft manufacturing we also had many different crimp tools, many were manufactured by Daniels.are you familiar with that company? I've crimped, and tested that crimp when setting up a new line, on more wires than I care to remember...

[@robertkeaney7047]

Yes, AMP aircraft tooling for crimping. No substitute for a proper splice

[@cruze1953]

@@sfbfriend That is a $1000 crimper compared to a $25 crimper! mil-spec.

[@4just1use]

Ive found milwaukee crimpers to be awsome for these connectors. I recomend trying them as they have long handles to get a good crimp and dont damage the connectors

[@OcRefrig]

Great video ! Everything You said is true But , Thier is another reason butt connectors fail. anything crimped - Fails over time / Gets Loose = Poor connection. crimps are soft metal. copper wire is soft and crushes. crimping is just a poor connection i've found in my over 40 years of doing wire connections. Even Allen screw connections holding copper wire in a Buss Get Loose over time. Copper crushes over time. needs to be tightened. Soldering & Shrink tubing with adhesive a connection is the only Better solution. takes the crimp out of the equation. Soldering is a lot more time consuming though. Crimping Lasts for about 10 years , if u want More Years or a Wet Location. Solder & Put in a Water proof box.

[@notsureigaf]

0:50 I was pleasantly surprised by Harbor Freight's $10 self-adjusting stripper, so far I've used it on small to medium gauge wire and it's worked pretty consistently as long as you're not afraid to experiment with the fine-tuning dial. They also have a new $15 pistol grip stripper, probably a ripoff of that Knipex. HF's Doyle brand ratcheting crimper has served me well too.

[@OneLegged-honda-mechanic]

Your SK green crimper, I use the same crimper it’s a Blue point, only I don’t use it to crimp, I’ve always used them to turn in screw in honda rear brake calipers. The tip fits perfectly in there. That crimper I have stays in my roll cart and been using it for brakes since the mid 90s 😂

[@brianmiller-iz6vf]

I have seen the yellow butt connectors used by the upfitter that installed our Surpreme truck bodies on our delivery vans, where both wires were put in the same end, then heat shrunk, but the opposite side was left open !

[@donwest5387]

thanks for the info Eric; I generally used the "pierce" jaws to be sure of the connection. lesson learned

[@rickhobbs4875]

I bought the ratcheting crimpers made for the heat shrink terminals. I use the same brand terminals. Have gone through probably 1,000 of them.