Demystifying 18th Century Stitches: Rolled Hems | CoCoVid 2020

Hello!
Have you heard of the “rolled hem” stitch? Do you use it yourself?
Did you know there are TWO stitches with this name?! Oh, my, the confusion…
Well, this video talks about their similarities and differences and how they were used, with full demonstrations of both, so you can see how they work and be able to tell them apart from each other.
They really do need their own names…
Happy hemming!
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MUSIC: Recorder Concerto No 1 - Cercles Nouvelles (Epidemic)
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
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© Rebecca Olds 2020

[@merindymorgenson3184]

Excellent educational demonstration! I’ve seen both done, and didn’t realize that there was a significant difference in their history. Thanks for sharing!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Glad it was helpful!

[@l.schweig4852]

I have not seen the first method demonstrated until this video (been sewing...let's just say decades). I have some sheer-ish fabric I have hung onto for over 20 years, fearing to have to hem it. It would be for "modern" dressmaking, if my 20th century stash is still considered modern. It is also good to hear (in a calm voice) that finesse and practice are what is needed to improve on my 18th century accessories. I am glad to have these two methods to inform the different veins I sew in. Thanks for such a clear lesson!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

The 'modern' technique is perfect for your sheer fabric! Glad you felt this video was beneficial. Happy sewing!

[@bonniecolleenpappin8807]

I’ve been sewing for 50 years now and have never had to roll a hem and I have made many complex garments. Thank you for making the processes so clear.

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Thanks! These are handy tools to have in your skills toolbox. I must admit, I managed to do with either of them for a long time (I felt so intimidated - then got a great teacher!) but wow, in the right circumstances, both these techniques really can raise your game. Glad you enjoyed it!

[@bonniecolleenpappin8807]

@@TimesmithDressHistory 👍

[@jaisanrobb3520]

I’ve never seen the first technique demonstrated. That’s magic!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

It is!

[@astra1653]

Thank you for clarifying the difference between the two, this was really nice to see!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@onemoreteaspooncreative7398]

Those 18th century hand rolled hems are so pretty! Time to get practicing I think!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Thanks! It's taken me a while to develop technique and I'm still improving, but it's sooooo gratifying. If you ever want a personal tutor for learning this, I highly recommend Sarah at Sewn Stories. She has a KZbin channel (check my main page and look under "Subscribed"). She's the one who taught me and she's a wonderful teacher. Details of her classes are on her website www.sewncompany.com.

[@jenniferold-dentremont6698]

This was a great comparison between the two stitches. I've always known the first stitch as a hand rolled hem and a the second as a whipped rolled hem, but I've never really thought about the difference between the two. You did a great job of hitting on every question I came up with along the way with regards to when were they used, on what kind of garments, who was using them, and so on. My only critique is that a more zoomed in view would probably be helpful when you're showing fiddly details like this, both in progress and when comparing finished pieces. The high contrast fabric and thread definitely help, but I found it difficult to see what you were doing with your needle. The concise narration did help to make up for a lot of that, though. Thank you so much for putting this together. I really appreciate the deep dives into the fiddly bits.

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Thank you - I'm glad it was helpful. At the moment, the best camera I have is the one with my phone (with enhanced software), and I agree, I really wanted to get much more close-up, in focus! I'm checking out all the kit recommendations from Bernadette Banner's panel discussion yesterday, so I can raise my game on this!

[@TheGlowstickOverdose]

@@TimesmithDressHistory if I may jump in: I love the content of this video but agree that it can be hard to see. Potentially you can get camera lenses for your phone. I don't use mine often but they help enough to justify the relatively inexpensive cost.

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

Wow, the first stitch is a very interesting technique! The edge that you're hemming seems to already have a finish. There's no fraying as on the opposite edge. Beautiful work and good filming. Thank you!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Well spotted about the two edges. They were both raw edges but one had been ripped and the other cut from a pulled thread. It's a very fine, densely woven Italian linen, so a pulled thread results in a very clean edge. I should have cleaned the other edge up the same way!

[@shedefinitelylikes]

This is super fascinating! Might just have to start a hemming playlist so I can come back to this the text time my usual "method" of "well let's just try a thing with a thread and a needle and see what it does" comes up short... (I'm not (yet) making actual garments, so far only some mending/adapting of clothes and odd mini-projects like micro-teatowels for a tiny model of a kitchen for my friend's stage design class)

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

There are so many ways to do things! Repair/mending and alterations are essential life skills, which I'm not so good at myself, so I admire you for that. Wow, tiny model kitchen? There's been some cool things on CoCoVid featuring miniature stuff: check out the Chintz talk on my channel where we had a dollhouse (with one room having its walls completely covered with chintz) and several dolls. @dressing.history also featured fashionably-clothed dolls in her "What did 18th century women know about their clothes?" video last Thursday.

[@cheerful_something_something]

This was really interesting to see the differences between these stitches that share a name, thank you : )

[@felicitygee381]

👋

[@cheerful_something_something]

@@felicitygee381 Ok, that made me laugh outloud...

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

You are so welcome!

[@penelope-oe2vr]

Thank you! I've been looking for this. Historical or not, it gets it done beautifully and I will be using this! Thank you.

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

It is definitely very cool. 😎

[@trojanette8345]

I completely agree and totally understand and support your efforts. Keep up the good work. You're helping everyone by what you do.

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Thank you! That means a lot.

[@FridaCrescencia]

wonderful explanation, one of my favourite cocovid videso so far. Thank you!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Wow, thank you!

[@robertswanger4004]

this is such a wonderful tutorial! thank you so much!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

You're so welcome!

[@yourbookladykatie]

Fabulous. I'd heard them both called a rolled hem, and I thought for sure one was incorrect, and it left me unsure of when to use the term. Thank you for the explanation.

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Glad to help!

[@lizmerritt8682]

Thank you!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

You're welcome!

[@LindaUrsin]

I've seen the first one and I've also seen one that whips around the edge but not the second one

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Yep, the one where your thread encircles the rolled edge is for doing a *gathered* rolled hem.

[@blktauna]

I work the second one but with the fabric the other way round.

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Cool! I was taught the way I show here, but then I saw it done the other way round and somehow it makes more sense to me. I'll be giving that a try once my wrist tendonitis settles down.

[@blktauna]

Timesmith Dressmaking oh yes be very careful of those wrists. Tendonitis is horribly painful

[@accessoryqueen1]

Loved this!!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Thank you!

[@accessoryqueen1]

Timesmith Dressmaking question- the schedule link doesn’t work & I can’t find your stitches with confusing names?

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

@@accessoryqueen1 Hi, yes, sorry, today's scheduled video is delayed because of the technical difficulties we had with Friday's live stream, which means that has been rescheduled (as a premiere) later today. I've spent the last two days filming and editing that, so the confusing stitches video will probably not come out until tomorrow. It'll be there for everyone still catching up on all the CoCoVid stuff! Sorry about the wait!

[@accessoryqueen1]

Timesmith Dressmaking as long as it stays up I’ll be a happy sewer!!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

@@accessoryqueen1 We broadcast as a premiere on Sunday so it's here on the channel now. It'll be staying up indefinitely.

[@felicitygee381]

Thank you, that was fascinating. By the way, is there a COCOVID badge/ribbon?

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Thanks! No badge for this one I'm afraid!

[@felicitygee381]

Thanks for letting me know 😁

[@muslinandlace2099]

Ooh, I needed this in the worst way! Thanks :D

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Consider it my gift to you. :D

[@muslinandlace2099]

@@TimesmithDressHistory which method would work best seam n a bias edge? I have a fichu I'm working on in this really nice cotton and silk voile, but it's really slippery and the bias stretches a lot.

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

@@muslinandlace2099 I'm not too clear on what you mean by "fichu" (as that's a 19th c. term)... if it's the late 18th century football shape, then I'd go for a narrow *flat* hem, not any kind of rolled hem. But it depends on other factors as well... feel free to PM me on FB. :)

[@jenniferwallace6983]

I thought the first method was like magic. I strive to make tiny rolled hens that are consistent

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Yes, it is like magic! And I agree - consistency produces such pretty results. Happy sewing!

[@sewmanyhobbies942]

Will the livestream be put up on this channel? I missed it D:

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Hi there. If you're talking about the "Making Replicas of Museum Favorites" live call from Friday - we had massive audio failure and pulled the plug on it. We've recorded our content and will be broadcasting it here on the channel on Sunday. Please watch the CostubeGuide for details! :)

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

The museum favourites talk is now up on my channel. :)

[@trojanette8345]

Very informative video. Just one suggestion, though. I would like to see this video redone or re-edited differently in the future. Considering that you were doing 'micro' stitching it would be nice IF your audience could have seen some very tight close ups of your stitching technique WHILE you were demonstrating. For me I felt the camera / shot was still too far away for people to discern well enough how and in exactly what manner you were picking up the fabric. Other than that I enjoyed your explanations.

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Thank you. I absolutely agree - my current camera's inability to focus properly up-close is a recurring source of frustration for me and I will be upgrading just as soon as I can afford to. Believe me, it's high on my priority list!

[@robyn3349]

Thank you!

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

You're welcome!