diesel heater 200% more efficient update 1

[@curtisroberts9137]

pretty ingenious way to gather a lot more heat by running it through the radiatior. Great idea.

[@broder1929]

AS LONG AS YOU FIT A CARBON MONOXIDE ALARM 🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯💩💩💩

[@sgtphilipm]

​@broder1929 exactly right with carbon monoxide and also carbon dioxide alarm to make sure enough oxygen in the room/workshop etc. I use both in the house

[@steve9326]

I added a small 20 amp 12v battery in conjunction with the 120 power supply, my ps had a fail over feature specifically for that. if the power cuts out you don't want these units stopping suddenly without the normal cool down period, the heat will kill he mainboard sometimes...

[@THESNAKE8]

The condensate isn’t gonna form on the heater side, it’s gonna form on the coolest and lowest point in the exhaust system which would likely be the bottom of the radiator nearest the outlet going to the outside.

[@unclebill5170]

Exactly what I was gonna say the condensate part that you built should be on the part that goes through the floor

[@sarkybugger5009]

@@unclebill5170 Have an open jar outside where it's cold, with the gases exhausting into it.

[@marsfoot1237]

@@sarkybugger5009 What he has proved is that no condensate occurs before the old water radiator. Any forming in the radiator and going to the outside is immaterial.

[@markthomasson5077]

@googlecontrolledI guess warm enough to prevent that, though wise to keep an eye on it

[@billyboozer8806]

You do a great job teaching people like me how the diesel heaters work. I am thinking of buying one for emergency heat on my home; I have total electric power. I have used ventless propane for winter power out situations. I like the way you make use of the hot exhaust in the radiator. You make me feel more safe if I buy one to use. You really make a great video to explain all the details you need to use the diesel heater. Thanks.

[@pstoneking3418]

These heaters should never be ran off just a power supply, because if there's a power failure the heater won't be allowed to shutdown properly. Always connect at a battery. Then if needed you can connect a trickle charger or battery maintainer.

[@greasemonkey7744]

agreed i run a home built ups have frequent power issues and it can cause issues to power down during heating both in residue and post-burn heatsoak overheating

[@JohnDoe-df2zz]

Why are folks worried about water condensing in the radiator when the radiator was originally designed to be heated by steam?

[@dangerousdoggo5465]

Heated by hot water. But i don't get it either. It should be mostly fine.

[@DzHarryNuttz]

I could be wrong but from what I've read is that the moisture from the diesel when burned is very acidic and will rust the cast iron very quickly. The cast iron radiator is a great idea but a non porous stainless steel would be more ideal or a straight pipe with fewer to no bends would be better for draining moisture.

[@sgtphilipm]

I used to fix webasto heaters on german buses in Germany Mercedes,neoplan, and kässbohrer setra hence very little condensation to be honest ,but running at low temperatures for example a shed or greenhouse will cause excessive build up of carbon and had a few issues with glow plugs going defective and the control units going defective so to be honest these chinese Diesel Heaters are missing usually a filter which I would advice installing online and if your worried about condensation put in a small water separator just check the filter maybe every 3 monthes to show if contaminated diesel been inadvertently purchased but condensation using a radiator as a heat exchanger isn't a worry at all,They are used with water all the time and the heat from the exhaust would evaporate the condensed water but thanks for the video I ordered a simmillar toolbox version I prefer those for my shed but will use kerosene not diesel as it won't have any freezing problems as diesel does or can wax up or 10% kerosenene 90 percent diesel and you have a frost free diesel heater that should give no issues,this is my opinion but again great video thanks so much and very informative

[@benholroyd5221]

@@DzHarryNuttz It is corrosive. Have you ever left a bbq out in the rain? although you kind of do want the condensation, as youre extracting all the latent heat from the vapour. id be inclined to get something to line the radiator (actually id get a heat exchanger and heat the radiator via water from that.

[@DzHarryNuttz]

@@sgtphilipm can you run straight kerosene thru this?

[@thingamajig6542]

Condensation occurs when the exhaust gases cool and the water vapor condenses out of the exhaust gas. You have the trap at one of the hottest locations thus no water. You should not have a problem with your setup since any water that collects at the bottom of radiator has a way out without blocking the outflow gases. I am also working on exhaust gas heat extractor for my heater. Don't like wasting that heat to the outdoors.

[@steve9326]

I'm pretty sure he did this only to show condensate wouldn't build up in the initial exhaust pipe before it reached the radiator. The comments in the first video folks were going on and on about that possibility

[@sgtphilipm]

Correct and I will do the same after watching this video which in my opinion was well presented

[@StratOvation]

Excellent video with some very interesting test results! Thanks for sharing.

[@shawncell1247]

Way better video,more informative . live the water trap would like to see PH stip to see if there is any acidic the water is. i would leave the car battery in as a backup

[@FamP-o3z]

Good video, thanks! There is no condensation in the "riser" pipe cause it hasn't cooled yet. I see no problem with the setup you have, the condensation will drain out at the bottom, maybe a slightly leaning radiator to further aid the run off. I think about 2,5% of the exhaust condensates to water, some cars accumulate alot especially when never allowed to get hot. I tend to worry about exhaust leaks when having alot of exhaust system indoors, but I guess exhaust can be detected with some gadgets..

[@stephaneletourneau7712]

keep em coming ,you guys ROCK !

[@stephaneletourneau7712]

this is absolutely brillant design, a must build !

[@CoolMusicToMyEars]

To get a condensation trap to work it has to be cold 🥶 but the way its set up is that the heater is warming up the glass jar so any vapour will be running to the cold radiator, Try putting glass jar in ice 🧊 in a bucket, or run a peltier element, but they draw current !

[@diogenesalejandroxenosdax1723]

Someone has probably already said this...I would switch the the input out put order on the radiator, hot into the bottom of the the tank, exhaust out the top. :)

[@Dread438]

You should install the trap an the cold end of the radiator.. where it is uuuuuhm cold...

[@paulbeddows6014]

There will be no condensation where you placed the trap. Condensation takes place where hot air meets a cold surface if any where it will be condensing at the out let.

[@dsfarmns2823]

That is correct, I put it only there because a lot of our viewer left comments at the last video that there is build up candensation what can not happend because the temperatur ther is way to hot for condensation.

[@Bigmoosebelly]

Why are we worried about Condensation when the exhaust is point down and outside the building? This looks like a great idea to recapture heat from exhaust!!

[@sgtphilipm]

I think it could leak from the joints but if you install it with a good exhaust/muffler paste I can't see an issue as long as a carbon monoxide detector/or carbon dioxide detector but always draw the air from outside the inside air is recycled within the room and that saves a lot of wasted heat

[@rockyhillaby6360]

Have a small fan blowing on the radiator it’ll move more heat around

[@Xynudu]

For a basic water trap to work the gas must be at dew point temperature. This is exactly the same principle as with an air compressor. Hot air will NOT condense out above dew point. So basically as it is, nothing will collect in the jar. Also ALL of the exhaust gas must go through the trap to remove the maximum amount of moisture this type of trap can extract. The best way for this to work would be to initially run the exhaust down/direct to a separate small heat exchanger at the point where the exhaust exits the building, then run the flow back to the original radiator entry point. That way the moisture will condense out in the radiator, but not freeze at the exit point from the building as it is kept hot.

[@vplph]

Those pipes look better than my arteries for sure !

[@JamesHolben]

Condensation will only occur when the "dew point" of the exhaust gases is reached. Too close to the exhaust pipe of the heater IMHO. All in all, a pretty good setup.

[@NightshiftCustom]

you will not get water here as it is to hot it will only form where it is cooled down aka the bottom of the radiator

[@jamesward5721]

I run mine off an old laptop power-supply that chucks out 12v - have run it that way for months now with no issues - saves mucking about with batteries. Just in case that helps anyone looking to power one of these heaters.

[@peterpauldonoghue7024]

Be careful.. if you suffer a ‘power outage’ the heater will not shut down slowly .. with a power cut the internal fan will stop immediately and you could fry the main pcb or worse

[@jamesward5721]

@@peterpauldonoghue7024 Myth - have to say. The sons have turned off the power to mine several times by hitting the wrong switch when doing other stuff - never had any effect. Fires right back up when I finish rolling my eyes & go turn the power back on. Nothing fried whatsoever.

[@kingofkracovia]

No overheat and melting or burning of the unit

[@jamesward5721]

@@kingofkracovia no. It's run for 2 years now, 24/7 during winter.

[@scottc8152]

I'm going to use some flexible dryer duct and put it around an extended exhaust (I already have both) and run a small DC fan at the bottom of the heater where the exhaust starts and split it off before it goes outside. I should be able to nearly double my heat output from 1 heater depending on the CFM of the fan. Easy and cheap way to increase output.

[@davej3487]

I would not push air past the exhaust pipe and vent into the room. A small pin hole in the pipe will kill you in an enclosed shop.

[@scottc8152]

@@davej3487 This is why I have several CO detectors nearby.

[@willfromthevalley]

what if you put a smaller radiator , like small car or motor bike boxed it up and made ducting so heater outlet blows through it duct ==< rad >== duct= =heater if that makes sense

[@vplph]

How do you rate the fuel cost vs the temp/comfort in your shop? Probably hard to compare but do you have rhe impression it is rather an expensive or a cheap way of heating?

[@uncioclasprinlume]

Very good job!

[@OscarPikeCountyPA]

Keep the battery. When you get a power failure, the room will fill up with exhaust smoke from the air inlet filter. You'll have to open up windows and doors, lose all your heat to get that stench out of your living space.

[@vwthings]

Depends where you live. Never had power outages where I live and only use the power supply now although I do have a UPS attached to that now, just in case. The cool-down cycle serves two purposes, 1) To cool the heater down 2) to burn off excess fuel in the burn chamber and leave it dry enough so there isn't clouds of white smoke when its next started up. As always with these heaters, don't run waste veg or engine oil through them at any ratio. It shortens the life of the burn chamber (sometimes within a day) and any savings lost to time spent replacing parts and cleaning.

[@thepolkster46]

for every gallon of fuel consumed, a gallon of H-2-0 is produced (or left over from combustion) if condensed completely , it will match your fuel consumption.

[@GreenSaxon]

Great idea

[@captainwin6333]

Some kind of ceramic pipe outlet that goes to the outside would stop the exhaust pipe acting like a cold magnet when the heater is not on..

[@LukasW74]

Your NOT going to get the condensation that way, it need to be near the end!

[@Zippofanatic77outdoors]

How long will it run off one battery untill u need to charge it again

[@marsfoot1237]

Depends on the size of battery

[@sgtphilipm]

Use the voltage /watt formula and it will tell you,if not to good with formulas there are apps on line where you can just put the numbers in

[@1decee]

Brilliant!

[@Rockall57]

Just put the hot exhaust at the bottom port of the radiator....any potential condensation will literally be blow out and then dried by thw hot gases..

[@sgtphilipm]

Correct

[@ceegee3664]

I always run off a battery when heating garage as if there's a Power out the heater can cook diesel in a sudden shut down

[@richH1625]

13:15 Could you show us if there is condensate coming out of the lower radiator exit?

[@davidpatrick1813]

Where is the 200% more efficient time stamp?

[@oimissed1292]

Could you get more heat out of the radiator if you reverse the flow

[@marsfoot1237]

NO

[@chris-m8q9m]

maybe a company could make a modern type of heater the main unit simply plugs into, and the exhaust outlet is the same as the main unit..something less bulky than the cast iron ones..

[@shawncell1247]

would like to buy an air quality meter, could you leave a link

[@MrTyroneweaver]

according to another video, put the diesel heater exhaust above the radiator or it will damage the heater

[@ablueeyedmale]

I use a xbox 360 power supply when not using battery's.

[@Fubarpapa]

100%+200% more is 300%? 3x original power?

[@davidbalfour3390]

You'll probably find that air quality meter isn't actually telling the truth and doesn't actually measure pm2.5, or CO or other details. At best it has a small hydrocarbon detector and makes up the other details. That's what mine did. I got a separate CO monitor and an Ikea monitor for hydrocarbons and particulates.

[@HjuvikLabs]

Correct, its garbage as tested on youtube Ikea cheap vindriktning is also not that good.

[@davidbalfour3390]

@@HjuvikLabs vindriktninh is good enough for me. Green=ok, anything else=check what's wrong. And at $13 I can't even get a pm2.5 sensor for that. I checked it against a calibrated pm2.5 detector so I'm happy.

[@awoodward37]

@@davidbalfour3390 If my family's life depends on knowing the air quality, I'm happy to spend more than $13.

[@gf2e]

@@davidbalfour3390 Are you saying the PM2.5 readings matched your calibrated meter?

[@trsfc1595]

I set my power supply at 14v

[@greasemonkey7744]

have found a reasonable drop in amperage at 13.6 to 14.4 volt on mine

[@pstoneking3418]

Black pipe should have been used instead of galvanized pipe.

[@davefroman4700]

Its too bad the exit of the radiator is not on the bottom right. Then the hot gases would be flowing all the way through the unit instead of only heating the one side.

[@ryanwarder655]

200% more efficient?? How so sir.

[@steveberkshire3804]

I worry about the heating components that are Aluminium and others giving off gases of heavy metals in the air. They can cause Neuralogical diseases..Is there and metering of those as well,any way to check it?

[@Richardj410]

You are restricting exhaust flow from exhaust hopefully you won't have soothing because the air to fuel ratio isn't correct. Good idea. Your just saying 200% if you know this, where are the measurements. Making the output to outside bigger will probably help. If your not having problems with restriction than my thoughts than good for you. Please share your ideas.

[@dsfarmns2823]

check out our new Diesel heater video you will be surprised kzbin.info/www/bejne/o2fGmax6p9h7l6M

[@boot56qaz]

What you have to realize all these cheap Chinese air heaters are a direct copy of the really expensive German Eberspacher air heater there is no comparison between them, the Eberspacher cost at least eight times the price the cheap Chinese copies which are prone to clogging up and are nowhere near as reliable as the original Eberspacher series also the electronics on them can be dangerous.

[@memadmax69]

So why do diesel cars/trucks now have "emission control" systems? Cause its a scam.

[@ZeusJuri]

-12.47 amps? Were you lazy to switch the connectors? Of course it's not 40Watts. Many people buy a transformer of at least 300 Watt for these heaters.

[@pepecorniel462]

I've ran my heater on 100 watts for 5 years. 300 watts is not absolutely necessary.

[@davej3487]

Amps times volts equals watts. So 12 VDC X 12.47 Amps = 149.64 watts. I look for a 150 to 175 Watt power supply. But if I had a 300 watt unit laying around it would NOT hurt anything. It would just draw a few more watts of AC.

[@chris_schenkel]

When you burn down your place with that piece of chinese crap, don't expect your insurance company to pay up. You voided that option the minute you hooked it up.

[@margaretlemmon1143]

Which is why you hear of this happening all the time after millions of these heaters being sold 🙄

[@MrHearnnow]

Great video 👍🏼🇨🇦😃