What’s the Difference between Motor and Compressor Oil?

[@MarcusRefusius]

My brother in Law has a Master’s in Engineering he was a researcher for Chevron for YEARS. He has tested oil on engines that power huge ships. I’ve always been that guy that changed his oil every 3,000mies and always bought Premium Oil. One day we were talking and I asked what he thought the best oil was for my vehicle. His answer was simple. “FRESH”. That’s the most important thing. And it applies to EVERYTHING. Cheers. Change your oil on a regular basis and your Machines will LAST.

[@redram5150]

Also, if you look at the additive package in oils, there’s almost zero difference between Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol, etc… even Supertech. And “premium” oils often have high zinc and are meant for solid lifter engines, but have the side effect of ruining catalytic converters

[@franbrancato6586]

Wow. Explained really well. Thanks for the straight forward information that applies to many different areas of mechanics.

[@61spindrift]

Your right friend, he explained it very very well. I am 63 years old and been a certified auto mechanic and always followed this procedure my whole life. However, this man explained it well and taught me a thing or two or three...or four! So thanks for this video. By the way...I immediately hit the subscribe button when I watched this video. Believe this channel will be worth my time.

[@JEWELZYOUTUBE]

Thank you for the clarification. God Bless

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ericculver9700]

Don't listen to a word this man says he may be the dumbest guy I have seen on you tube ever.

[@albinklein7680]

I really don't know anybody who uses "real" air compressor oil. Please don't get me wrong; all those recommendations like "detergents are bad" make sense, no doubt. I have a big commercial air compressor in my shop (10hp "Boge") and it runs about 100-150 hours per month. I own this compressor since the 1990s and I put whatever oil I have on hand in it when I do an oil change once a year. Every 10.000 hours or so I take it apart to service the valves and it hasn't any issues whatsoever. The cylinders look like brand new, it still runs on the first set of rings, no sludge at all, bearings are fine.

[@lorvin5673]

The reason we change "oil" is not because of the oil...it's because of the additives. As this man explained, these additives eventually reach a point they are no longer effective. Suspension additives, for example, eventually become full and if they are not replaced, the particles that would be suspended, are now free flowing throughout your engine. As for the other additives, same thing happens. The oil itself would be good for years on its own. In fact, at one point in time we had a portable machine where we could remove the engine oil, heat it, vibrate it and in some cases, magnetize it to remove free flowing particles (quality additives weren't really a thing then), then put the oil back in the engine. It seems to me that if the oil in a compressor was replaced often enough, it really shouldn't matter what it is. The change interval should be higher (longer) in a compressor since there is no combustion occurring, but the water issue can certainly be a problem. You compress air, you squeeze out the water...simple concept. Still, condensation in a combustion engine is a factor, too. What about temperature, though? That needs to be considered. The example being a combustion engine, in a very short period of time, regardless of location, is going to heat up quickly due to friction, compression, and from the combustion process...perhaps as much as 150 degrees F. above ambient temperature. This is not the case with a compressor. A compressor will heat up some from friction and from the compressed air, but not like a combustion engine does from friction, compression, AND combustion. This is the reason for multi-weight products. The "W" doesn't stand for weight, it stands for "winter." The viscosity in a multi-weight oil drops from its larger number to its lower number when significantly chilled. It seems that, too, would be better for a compressor, but most compressors call for a straight or single viscosity. With all this in mind, it would seem a compressor pump is a lot less complex than a modern day combustion engine. Does it matter what oil we use in our compressors? Maybe. I haven't decided yet. Perhaps it depends some on the complexity of the compressor pump? These things I shared are just things I know and the thoughts running through my mind regarding this issue...

[@multiplatformx]

Thank you very informative!!

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ronaldraj4952]

Well explained...thanks a lot

[@DirtFarmerJay]

You are welcome!

[@CaptainRon1913]

You don't need a $14 bottle of "compressor" snake oil. All of your normal home air compressors use non-detergent SAE-30 motor oil...It will say so in your owner's manual. Same common oil you'd put in your small engine lawnmower, or any small engine.

[@scottmosier5772]

Worked for T Marzettie for 40 yrs Imuslison

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Excellent.

[@madmanmechanic8847]

I do Marine repair for a living and restore muscle cars this is very interesting. I tore down my old school Crafts man compressor to put in a new seal but the seal is NLA I flushed the compressor out and resealed the bottom crank case . Its American made you cannot buy compressors like this anymore. Anyway I went to Orielys checked on compressor oil its 30 wt non detergent, Well hell I went to Napa asked for 30 wt non detergent and its $5.95 a bottle guess what I bought ? So I just changed it with the Napa oil I am waiting on a belt for it trying to find one.

[@happycat0411]

All farmers know and understand how farm machinery work and no farmer is going to run out and buy air compressor oil for their air compressor just because someone says so. Air compressors and 4 stroke engine are exactly the same engine design with the exception that an oiled air compressor lacks a power stroke. Nevertheless, if one changes their air compressor once every 10 years with a good synthetic oil they should have zero problems for another 10 years. Synthetic oil was designed by a NASA engineer to work in -50 Celsius and colder temperatures (so viscosity would never be a problem). Since an air compressor does not have a power stroke there should be nothing in an air compressor that would even contaminate the compressor's oil either... An oiled air compressor doesn't generate enough heat to cause the oil to thermally break down as there is no power cycle in an oiled air compressor.....

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Good insights! Thanks for writing. Best, DFJ

[@karlandersen1984]

In one ear and out the other.

[@MrBillDaBear]

No combustion contaminants from an air compressor, however- There will still be water in suspension with the oil due to compression. Without a power stroke, oil temp wont be high enough to evaporate the water like in an engine. The video points out that a non-detergent oil allows condensation to settle to the bottom of the sump

[@happycat0411]

@@MrBillDaBear You do make a valid point but as long as there is a decent synthetic oil in the air compressor there is no reason why any normal synthetic engine should not work. I have friends in Asia who own and run their own automotive repair shops and all they do is change their air compressor oil once every 8 years. Mind you engine oil is cheap and air compressors also do not use an oil filter, like the engines in automobiles....

[@MrBillDaBear]

@@happycat0411 agreed, and ultimately oil change interval is more important than the oil itself. Agreed that many types of oils will work just fine, but the oil that works the “best” is the one designed for the operating conditions at hand If the compressor is running hard and the oil is dirty, change it. Use the correct oil for the job if possible, but if you’re in a pinch, fresh engine oil is always better than dirty compressor oil

[@redram5150]

5W-30 isn’t 5 weight-30. The 5W is cold flow ability. It’s 30 weight oil. If it were 0w-30 it’s still 30 weight and flows better than 5W in freezing temps. The lower the W number, the better cold flow ability. Btw, I run 0w-30 full synthetic in my compressor

[@albertsewell878]

All sounds good , although its also a checklist of what needs or will happen in a combustion engine. Having had multiple talks w oil companies on additive packages. IR and the like do not explain why the nondeturgent (which is obsolete) is detrimental to operation of said pump . Exception would be clean air pumps. I will prefer a detergent to clean the pump and suspend solids till next oil change. Also the multi weight oils are superior if your pump is not in a climate controled room.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

That's some good insights. Thanks for commenting. Best, DFJ

[@williamodom2580]

You can purchase Royal Purple 30w nondetergent full synthetic oil for $13 a quart

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Love it. Thanks for the tip! Best, DFJ

[@mikewong5888]

Both my vintage Speedaire compressors were manufactured way before synthetics were invented 😂

[@CalebGibbsAvenue]

My dad does oil analysis tests mobile oil is very competitive and good oil. Amsoil is better for most options.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks for this! Best, DFJ

[@blackout7615]

I just use what i put in my truck engine. Does it matter? I doubt it. My compressor works awesome. Always has and always will. I change the iil every year. Most issues come because people never change their compressor oil.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks for sharing - good insight. Good on you for regular oil changes. Best, DFJ

[@karlandersen1984]

Stupid is as stupid does.

[@dadgarage7966]

@@karlandersen1984 His compressor works awesome with engine oil. Always has and always will. It's difficult to argue with this kind of airtight logic.

[@umageddon]

@@dadgarage7966😂