3 Link vs 4 Link vs Radius Arm vs Watts Link vs Wishbone 3 Link

[@WeBleedGreen1]

Why couldn't school be this interesting growing up

[@DirtLifestyle]

Lol

[@ypop417]

You Had The WRONG Teachers My auto class Teacher did road racing we rebuilt the car in class (off-season)

[@Fei8lo]

Mechanical engineering classes will talk about geometry and design of link systems. The applications they discuss normally are not this cool or interesting though.

[@iamblaineful]

We rebuilt a local's VW Karman Ghia droptop in High School. The owner pays materials, we do the "free labor". body, paint, interior, engine, electrical. I started out with my dad at 10yo on our work trucks, mostly Ford 4x4, as we were a logging company in WA, crew cab meant 4doors for your actual crew...but yeah, I spent plenty of nights laying on cold concrete or gravel in W.WA, often in the rain, fixing Ford Trucks. By the time I got to High School, I knew most of it. We had hydraulic press, welder, bandsaws, and the super important Oxy Torch...the gas axe.

[@WeBleedGreen1]

@@ypop417 my diesel classes were interesting but general ed wasnt

[@JoeGarofaloII]

"If you're just an average Joe like me or you..." lol I appreciate the compliment Nate, but my TJ on a 4" Rough Country lift and 33s doesn't even compare to what you're doing here. Thank you sir, I have learned so much from these videos!

[@jordannorth5310]

I like how nate actually gathers his own information instead of just spouting whatever the forums or Facebook is saying

[@GGavel]

Another great video Nate. A couple points not mentioned that I think are important: Regarding consuming joints on the radius arm; similar to going with a 3 link front versus a 4 link, you can remove (or not install) one of the upper "arms" on a radius arm and eliminate the bushing wear that results from the axle rotation applied when the suspension articulates. When the suspension articulates, as opposed to simple droop, one radius arm will be trying to hold the axle in the static caster rotation while the other will be trying to rotate the axle. This difference in axle rotation is what causes bushing wear. Eliminate one of the upper "links" and you eliminate the different rotation since now only one arm is controlling caster rotation as the suspension cycles. Second point regarding using a double triangulated 4 link on the front to eliminate the pan hard, I don't think eliminating the pan hard is desirable unless you are going full hydro or a rack and pinion for steering. If you are using a linked steering (not rack and pinion) with a drag link, you WANT your axle to swing through a lateral radius identical to the lateral radius that your drag link swings it through. This way there is no bump steer resulting from your drag link swing radius being different from your axle lateral swing radius (or lack there of in the case of a triangulated 4 link). If you have a nice flat drag link at static suspension height, chances are you might not notice any bump steer through the normal driving suspension cycle range but if your axle is not swinging through the same lateral radius as the drag link, it WILL be there. Similar to old front leaf spring suspensions, which have no lateral travel radius, it may only be noticeable with a large suspension travel range but if we're talking ideal suspension solutions, I think a pan hard link is necessary for a drag link steering system.

[@chadbrandonstreet]

You are a superior teacher, my friend. It’s a gift and you use it well. Thank you for sharing, teaching, and being an all around bad-ass we can share with our buddies and aspire to. The fact that your a family man, and are clear on your life priorities makes it all the more solid and inspiring. Keep it up!

[@jayinmi3706]

"What's the best XXX ?" I get this a lot with car stereo brands/equipment. There is definitely no "best" just "Best for your application." Glad you brought this up.

[@duneattack]

Nate you're the best. I see how many of your viewers appreciate the teaching aspects of your vid's as much as I do. Hat's off to you, Brother!

[@BuildSomethingAuto]

I very much appreciate these videos. Im a mechanical engineer and I STILL learn alot from these. Engineering nomenclature and offroad nomenclature are just so much different, these overviews help me a lot to make sure that in my videos I’m speaking the same language as a fabricator/DIYer. It also helps so that I know which setups are the standard go to’s and why rather then me scratching my head with some of the stuff I see manufacturers do haha. Very inspiring stuff!

[@Ebbyman413]

You shall now be referred to as "Professor Nate" - I learn more from this channel every week than just about anywhere else combined! Awesome work as always.

[@RobRoyRoadie]

As you know, your D2 came with a Watts link on the rear axle. Lots of Disco owners swap the Watts link out for a rear Panhard rod as the Watts links are notorious for limited travel so that’s a concern to be aware of.

[@benalborta]

Love the videos man, The production quality and even the music in the vids is just top-notch. Love what you do and I hope this channel can take off

[@DirtLifestyle]

Thanks bro!

[@robertlindseyjr8396]

The watts link is great for air or hydraulics because the axle moves straight up and down as opposed to a pan hard bar that can make the axle move side to side as the car moves up and down

[@lk6912]

Wtf? Doesn't that mess your alignment up? How much side to side are we talking here? Like an inch?

[@unreal4202]

@@lk6912 depends on the length of the bar and how much vertical travel the suspension has

[@zacharybarlow3960]

Some of the best suspension info out there! Thanks for the high quality content!

[@DirtLifestyle]

Thanks for watching!

[@Aint1S]

Wishbone 3-link owner here... No flex steer! It'll flex out like it shouldn't be possible to become that limber, but it doesn't flex steer. I think the people who make these goofy claims should put their credentials alongside their statements. One could only assume that the people who experience this issue are not compensating for the added stressors upon the singular load bearing link. Gussets, tubing, and one big heim joint going back to two polyurethane bushings mounted on the same bolt that the lower control arms ride on. Fabtech figured it out perfectly on the TJ and it is the best thing since sliced bread! I like their design so darn much, I'm borrowing the design for my K5 Blazer... AKA a bigger Jeep made by Chevy.

[@lebonematlapeng6520]

Nate, I watch these videos religiously! I have learnt so much from you, now I have so much confidence to start building. My first project is a 10 ton workshop press I've already started, I'll post photos when done. Thanks a lot man! PS, I'm in Botswana, that's how far you're reaching!💪

[@zubat365]

I don't know about anyone else but your videos like this are super helpful in my planning process thank you

[@AngryTurds]

Damn son. Thanks for explaining things. I am messing with the links on my daughter's rc crawler and found this so informative and will no doubt watch this AGAIN before im done. There's alot more to making axles fit, go up n down etc than I realised. 👍

[@idriwzrd]

The Watt's link also keeps the axle centered through suspension travel. It's also more tune-able than a panhard. It works very well in road race cars that are required to use a solid axle.

[@DavidNJ1]

The upper wishbone was OEM in Jeep WJs. It is like a triangulated upper links where the axle mounts are at the same point. However, in practice, a wishbone tends to be much shorter than triangulated upper links. There is a company that makes a very unique rear Watt's linkage for a JK with standard or Dana 60 housings. The unique part is the center element is horizontal on top of the axle instead of vertical behind it. What makes the Watt's link preferred over that Panhard rod is there no side movement of the axle...the center is always centered. Ditto for the upper wishbone and a well-executed triangulated links. The problem with either double triangulated links, a wishbone, or a Watt's link in front is the drag link from the pitman arm to the knuckle that will cause bump steer. With a Panhard bar, lots of effort is made to make the Panhard bar and drag link parallel. Full-hydraulic steering cures that problem and double triangulated is de rigueur on rock bouncers and I thought on 4400 class Ultra 4s that didn't have IFS.

[@ianmburke]

This is what distance learning should be for every kid in highschool right now... 👊👊👊

[@DeathTollRacing]

Great job! I am doing a build where I was able to have triangulated 4 link front and rear, and someone pointed out to me that I may have bump steer in the front from the 4 link holding the axle centered during travel, but the crossover steering arm changing angles will make it so it feels like bump steer. I played with it quite a bit and I see what he’s saying, but I haven’t driven it yet so we will see. It’s a KZbin build (ugh) so you can check out what I mean if it’s unclear. Great job on your channel. Keep having fun!

[@fotomotoxxiii]

After building several 3/4 link rigs at the shop I'm still on leaf springs. Love the simplicity, strength and lack of track bars. And yes leafs can flex! Excellent video mate!

[@damnitdang]

How did everyone like the 3 link? I'm thinking of 3 linking my rear on my 86.. I wanted to keep the stock tank. Have long travlenin the front. And was debating on rear deavers or 3 link

[@jb6222]

i built a track bar drop bracket on the jeep side to get rid of the bump steer and what a difference it made, almost no bump steer now. Thanks for the info man. I remember before i had the knowledge through your videos i bought a 6 inch drop pitman arm thinking i would fix my bump steer and how much worse it made it lol, the disappointment in spending all the time not to mention money. I would really like to try the double triangulated suspension so i can get ride of the track bar and some bump steer i have at the rear. Cant wait to check out your video on that.

[@messix7768]

Nate, the BIG advantage to a watts link is that it keeps the axle centered through out the travel of the axle. no rear steer at all.

[@DumbCarGuy]

The Watts is used on my Alfa Romeo Milano with a rear mounted transmission, It all tucks inside of the Dion Triangle. Its great for a race car.

[@onetruebob_tj]

Thank you Nate. Excellent content. Learned a few things. Appreciate all you do for the community. 👍💪🤘

[@DirtLifestyle]

Thank you for watching man! And the positive comment 👍

[@rcguymike]

Ahhhhh! What about leaf springs, shackles and slider boxes!?!? Lol nice work, looking forward to part 2😜

[@acrewgaming2763]

Thanks Nate! Great info. My brother has been running a watts type link setup in his Jeeps for years. We’re working on a long arm JT setup that utilizes one in the rear.

[@drew79s]

A watts link is a little more complicated and a little more simple than you're thinking there... The big benefit is there is exactly zero lateral axle movement in a watts link... you can use a watts link with any other configuration that isn't triangulated as well... Having a 3 link with a watts link is a 5 link rear, using it with a 4 link rear makes it a 6 link... The Raptor uses as 6 link, for instance. the big benefit is no rear steer at high speeds... The other big benefit is that you can set your roll centre wherever you like it, it's about the only live axle suspension system you can do that with. The roll centre is set at the pivot on the toggle link. That ability to set the roll centre hight is pretty massive when you're running compliant, soft vehicles, as well... It means you can lift or lower the RC height to change the relationship between your ride and roll stiffnesses, meaning that you can do that instead of using an anti roll bar, or in conjunction with a soft one, to provide good body control, good onroad manners and still provide good roll resistance with a soft setup. Anyway, I hope that helps.

[@pkbrunnemer6017]

the biggest benefit to a watts link is the lack of side to side push on the axle from a panhard bar, doesn't justify the complexity for a 4x4 but it works good on cars

[@Kylejeepadventures]

Simple, Leaf springs is the best.

[@DirtLifestyle]

🤣

[@onetruebob_tj]

Leaf springs are for poor people. 😉🤣

[@rickz9495]

Go leaf or go home lol

[@jeepindave5464]

Yj for life

[@scotts4437]

Leafs all the way. Simple is better

[@jimschmidt4089]

Been thinking about the long arm kit and I want aware of all the other options. As always great material with exceptional explanation. Thank you for dumbing it down for guys like me.

[@mattreno998]

I finally know the proper name for the rear suspension on my tracker! So a wishbone 3 link is actually a thing! Nate you’re awesome and please keep up the great content!

[@DirtbikeXpeditions]

I really enjoy the technical expertise of your channel.

[@Performance-101]

The rear flex steer is based on the roll center's distance from the centerline of the axle. It's the same on all suspension designs, the 4-link doesn't have a disadvantage here, it's just that many of the systems out there have tall brackets above a big pumpkin.

[@davidp130]

Finally a great explanation of the mystical 3/4 link! Thanks!👍

[@isaacleal2]

Congrats, great content. This week I was disgusting about suspension tunning for my Brazilian Troller T4 and you explained all much better then me. I shared your video with my offroad club. keeping doing more technical videos.

[@varnell999]

I have both front and rear double triangulated 4 links. Nice and simple.

[@stevenrailey9204]

i think the hardest part of it all is just committing. Im glad there are online computer programs to try and help you figure out some of the numbers

[@t54760]

I still subscribe and love BleepinJeep but I'm so glad you branched out with this volume of great content. Top quality Nate!

[@RanouttaTalent]

Watts links are awesome in low travel set ups like muscle cars and whatnot. it keeps the axle really stable and keeps the body from shuffling one way or the other like a panhard bar setup. I agree though, it's hard to imagine when you would build one for a 4x4.

[@andygullion5182]

Articulate guy. Good job ...exactly what I needed ...Trying to sort out a V8 TJ that has triangulated four link front and rear that works well Offroad but is almost un streetable

[@kenselleck2414]

On the Semi-triangulated 4 link and the wishbone 3 link having the parallel links parallel to the ground @ ride height the roll steer will be minimized. Having the forward end of the parallel link lower than at the axle it will have roll understeer which gives a stabilizing effect.

[@charlieheath4345]

Man I've been scouring the internet for information on doing a solid axle swap on my Chevy van and there just isn't any videos of this being done. I feel like you & your channel would be the best resource for doing a swap like this and showing how it's done. Would be really cool to see you do a step by step video on how to convert a van from 2 wheel drive to 4x4. Something to consider! I'll even loan you my van for the build 😜

[@bdjm8595]

Excellent overview of the options available !!!!

[@robertreid8190]

That Toyota in the intro looks like a beast!

[@ShockWaveOffroad]

Glad you went over all the possible systems. Thinking about going 3 link in the front of my JL. Want to do a triangulated 4 link in rear, but that damn fuel tank location causes issues. Mine isn't a trailer queen, so relocation is a huge problem. Need time to figure it out. Glad you started your own channel. You seem more relaxed. Keep up the great content!!👍🏻👊🏻🤘🏻

[@cameron6471]

great video. watts links are useful if the lateral movement of the axle when using a panhard is a problem for you. they keep the axle centered during travel

[@mahi98goodguy]

I bought a suzuki jimny 5 door and this video helped a lot

[@Team_Nacho_Moto]

NATE!!! Dropping knowledge in a bare bones way again! Love your content man- just stretched my JK last month. Wanting to eventually double triangulate the rear, and make a 3 link front. Keep up the solid work!

[@wyatth6824]

Good info in a way that makes sense. I'm only starting to plan out a linked build for the semi distant future and now have a bit more knowledge (and a lot more thinking) to do

[@chopperchuck]

a well articulated synopsis

[@peterolson823]

Super video. You really do a great job of breaking the information down. Very informative and educational.

[@Whiskey11Gaming]

Off roaders confuse the hell out of me. A triangulated 4 link will have geometric bind built into the design at the extreme ends of travel. You do not get this with a 3 link. Even a parallel 4 link will bind at extreme ends of travel. There simply is too many control arms and SOMETHING has to change length because the axle is over constrained. The only thing that prevents damage is the relatively slow speed at which the suspension articulates and soft sidewalls which allows the geometric bind to move the axle before something breaks. That said, predictably is always key... and laterally moving axles isn't predictable. Also, I disagree with the notion that a 3 link is weaker. Unless your inverting the control arms such that the central link is on the bottom and the outer links are on top, the load from the axle is almost entirely transmitted through the outer lower links and any rotation is easily handled by the upper control arm. Ford has 1000+ HP and Torque drag Mustang's with 3 links launching harder than any off roader is hitting their tires. I can understand why a PHB is preferred for off roading since it's simple and just works. The advantages of a watts link aren't nearly in play as much as they are on car racing and even then, the lateral movement of the axle is pretty damn small. The primary advantage for the watts link is roll center control by either fixing it relative to the CG (chassis mounted pivot bolt) or relative to the ground (axle mounted). I can't think of a single reason RC height would matter for off roading except maybe preventing rollovers while cornering and general driving behavior on the road. No matter what, designing the suspension for your intended use is always a compromise. Packaging is always a concern. Just don't let the ease of certain designs artifical constrain you. Longer arms tend to allow for more bind free travel and better consistency.

[@bemyers123]

I’m considering the Savvy Mid-Arm for my LJ. I’ve been hearing that it’s one of the best designs.

[@stevenmccrickard1401]

Another great video, you are an exceptional teacher. As always, thanks for the content.

[@sammiller9625]

I enjoy the concept videos, between you and Busted Knuckle I’ve learned a ton about suspension design

[@kaylamccall1051]

I am just learning how to and where to start on my triangulated rear 4 link with coilover conversion, and front torsion bar delete with coilover conversion on my 2001 Ford Ranger Trail Truck build. I have already begun by recording some measurements, throwing away all of the factory suspension, and ground away the rear shock tabs from the 8.8 rear diff. Now I am ready to purchase the proper suspension pieces & put back together & finish powder coating everything. I just realized that even though I have a solid plan, and i'm not scared or afraid of this, I also accept that I don't know as much about getting the first stages of the ball rolling. I probably need to decide how big the wheels and tires will be. How much lift I want, higher than factory ride height. I was thinking about 4" so I can go from 32" to 35" tires. 16" to 17" wheels. Then I should be able to establish with that information, what height to set the differentials on jack stands and height to set the frame on frame stands, giving me my ride height. Right? Until I do that, I can't establish my driveline angles, thus, cannot weld the tabs and mounts for the 4 links. Am I thinking clearly? Is anyone reading me? haha. It's almost like I have to pretend the build is done, so I know where to actually weld the link tabs. Do most people just go where the front perches for the leaves used to be?

[@jamessutherland5107]

I have my kingpin 60 on radius arms, putting a wishbone on my corporate this winter when the 5:1 atlas gets installed. When do we discuss 1 ton Independant? Great videos, you have a gift.

[@BlackAndBlueGarage]

Watts link and 3link/panhard in the rear is an option for a truck that's keeping the stock fuel tank and real estate is an option. I've also seen a reverse direction upper triangle link which I still can't wrap my head around.

[@cernut]

(10:25) Having a liberty with the wishbone and then converting it to a semi-triangualted 4 link. Yes the rear becomes way more stable and flexes better with the semi-triangualted 4 link.

[@charliedee9276]

As a Jeep WJ owner I can tell you the rear 3 link wishbone DOES rear steer more then the semi triangulated 3 link. Crown Vic cop cars have Watts link rear suspensions.

[@Nesten321]

Another cool solid axle suspension is the torque tube suspension used in UNIMOGs and the model t and some other stuff (not that practical to build it aftermarket but still cool). And a crazy suspension that just boggles you mind to try to figure out is the de dion suspension (prob mispelled)

[@Rozza43]

We put a watts link on an 86 monte carlo at our shop, mini tubed the rear and raised the floors 2 inches...she lays frame now. Now we just have to put and engine and transmisison in it😂😂😂 hopefully we finish it in the next decade, because it started a decade ago.

[@supersportimpalass]

Watts links have the benefit of acting as a quasi roll bar since it acts on the center of the axle and not only on one side. I don't believe there would be much of an advantage offroad due to the complexity but they do work great on lower center of gravity street cars and trucks.

[@joshpit2003]

I had a long radius-arm setup in front. Gnarly flex. But the vehicle eventually developed a terrifying death-wobble. I'm now wondering if I needed to replace all of my bushings. They visually looked good, but were probably pushing 4 years old at the time. I never realized the bushings are a frequent wear item for radius-arm suspension. Thanks for enlightening me.

[@ssceverythingcummins2985]

Just solid axle swapped the back of my 03 Navigator built everything 1 off custom 8" lift with radius arms 1 1/4 Johnny joints Navigator on 37x13.50 x 24 interco m16's

[@robertmcnear204]

Love the insight and information. This definitely helps with my current dilemma with suspension decisions on my 88.5 samurai.

[@sloppyoppie]

I'm doing a rear wishbone 3 on my Baja 2by ZJ. I envision myself going 90 through the whoops like a trophy truck... except my 4.0 maybe barely hits 65MPH these days.

[@coreygrace4856]

Great video. I thought I knew everything about suspension systems. I was wrong. Thank you

[@russelproctor6685]

I'm building my first jeep in my garage. I will be building a custom 3 link front and rear with pan hard bar. Wish I had some with your knowledge here to walk me through it when The time comes.

[@axelcartwright4507]

The old land rover defender, range rover classic and discovery 1 all used a wish bone 3 link. They always have issues with the ballpoint on the wish bone link to the axle wearing out quickly or with to much flex the boot rips. The mounts to the chassis would also be prone to rust one some models.

[@dannyc5780]

Many thanks for wrapping up this rather complex topic so easily for us really "average Joes" out there. One question regarding the panhard rod after lifting the vehicle (say 2 inches): The mount on the frame must be brought down 2 inches as well, right? Seems like this gets forgotten in many cases, causing the axle to travel far more sideways than it should.

[@rvarsigfusson6163]

There is some goodies in this video. It would be nice to see the rear axel from RR (not a rolls royal but range rover) The arm lengths in a 4-link system have a purpose as well. But I'm well satisficed with your info

[@idahoxj]

More knowledge bombs dropped. Great video Nate!

[@krover01]

I cut the watts out of my Disco and did a panhard. That with the radius arms is better, but it will soon be getting a 4 link in the back!

[@theezeelife292]

Do you think you could do a video on how to set up coilovers? I can't find any reliable information on it. Every site I visit contradicts every other one. What really gets me is determining spring rate for the coils.

[@nicksavage1367]

Thank you very much this was a great video! Helped me plan my WJ a little more.

[@ssceverythingcummins2985]

As always great video great info ! Tune ability of a 4link is nice to have . I've built several different styles aswell . I usually go with what suites the project the best .

[@overlandtraveler979]

Hay Nate how are u doing ? Things look a little wild in your area . We have lots of the smoke working up this way here in BC. Hope u are staying safe. Great videos great content keep up the good work.

[@saladking2370]

You're a great teacher

[@Pinkielover]

Best suspension is one that works correctly

[@oleroy4749]

Great video Nate👍👍 I really appreciate your suspension content

[@snivesz32]

Question about a triangulated 4 link: When you have a panhard bar the suspension moves side to side as the suspension sweeps its range. With triangulated 4-link you don’t need a panhard bar, because the suspension no longer moves side to side as it sweeps its range. However, the 3 or 5 link with a panhard bar doesn’t get bumpsteer because the drag link is parallel to the panhard bar, and when the suspension moves side to side so does the drag link and thus no steering occurs. But, with a triangulated 4 link, and no panhard bar, as the suspension sweeps its range the drag link pushes on the steering and produces bump steer. How do we avoid this?

[@Tboffroadfab]

Nate, what’s your opinion on the 3 link rear suspensions people are doing on the JK/JL now, With the third link going directly above the driveshaft down to the top of the axle housing/truss? I’m building a JK on tons and 40s and I’m contemplating doing that setup strictly so I don’t have to go to a fuel cell or something since the JK fuel tank is right in the way.

[@392hellscat7]

I like these kind of videos! Reminds me of Engineering Explained. Keep up the good work!

[@macmurfy2jka]

So would the would the easiest way to convert a leaf spring rear to coils would be something like a radius arm set up utilizing the original leaf mounts and coilovers? At that point the only thing being added would be the panhard bar, and some reinforcements around the shock mount? Seams simple enough.

[@BigMateo24]

My Jeep WJ has that wishbone 3 link on it, I have mixed feelings on it. Not a fan of that big stock boomerang arm that came stock because it uses a pretty weak ball joint on the rear. After lifting it I was getting lots of forward and rear movement on the axle causing some pretty bad banging sounds in the rear because the ball joint pretty much turned into jelly after a very short period of time under normal highway driving. It blew the factory style ball joint fast. I believe the control arm is similar on the Liberty and WJ, it may be possible to adapt an aftermarket rear A-arm from a WJ onto a KJ, in theory, but I've never tried it. The advantage being there are many aftermarket rear A-arms for the WJ that use flex joints instead of bushings and ball joints, very very easy to convert.

[@jasongonsalves2063]

Hey Nate loved the video but you forgot one other setup for 4x4 trucks leaf spring.

[@try2topdat742]

I would like to hear your take on leaf spring.. it's the simplest for sure..

[@slateslavens]

Nate, I have a quick suspension question: How do I pick the 'best' shock for my rig? I have a '48 Willys jeep I picked up about five years ago. The chassis was stretched two feet, giving it a 108" wheelbase. The leaf springs were a disaster when I bought it and I _had_ to replace them very early in the build. Being short on funds _and_ knowledge about picking the right type of leaf spring, I went with the Rancho 2.5" lift system with the RS5000 shocks. Long story short, five years and about 25k miles later it still rides like a dump truck even with the 235/85r16s at 25psi. I know that the type of spring pack has a lot to do with that. The Rancho spring packs have five leafs that are 3/16 to 1/4" thick vs. the original 9-10 leaf packs with leafs in a pack of overall similar thickness. The truck weighs about 2800 lbs empty. I'm looking at a GVW of no more than 3800lbs fully loaded (targeting 3500lbs). The truck is being set up as an overlander and is my daily driver. What should I be looking for in a shock, knowing I can't afford things like remote res Fox units?

[@bullrunoverland7022]

Thanks. Just the debate we are having on our LJ. Especially on the front. It is running RJ60's on a short arm. Radius arms in the front was the first thought but the rotated 60 housing will be an issue. A way around that is to modify the upper arm on driver side to clear housing. put an arch in it. Was thinking Clayton but now see that crazy "strut" set up on the Metalcloak radius set up that stops the binding.? Yes, we can build our own kit but was trying to stay with an off the shelf option that we could tweak. So 3 link may be the option cause exhaust will be in the way for 4 link. Trying to stay on some kind of budget but it's getting out of control as our minds wander. Since we were going to stick with coils and shocks and now have the coil over bug. Thoughts?

[@hibiki2401]

Why was quarter elliptic not included? I would have loved to hear how it compares to the others and the pros and cons.

[@overlandready]

Interesting how you say the watt's link is no good for off road, yet you had one on the D2, if you elongate the centre, it will give much greater ability for travel and it will always be centred! As a note LAnd Rover have been running A-frame top linkssince 1983 and there is no noticable rear steer, but then there won't be as the arms are long. Still waiting for you to get the ABS sensors in those 1 ton axles... :-D

[@samsoncarr9950]

Really enjoy the informational content.

[@israelcardona5170]

On a three link let's say if pumpkin housing is on the driver side can you run the upper link on top of the diff or is it better to run the link off of the passenger side where the pumpkin is not?

[@davebrunette6394]

Nice job explaining everything.😎

[@Little.R]

I wanna know more about your older build state... that's kind of what I'm going for.

[@brisonpalmer6730]

Which system will work better for a weekend warrior that sees a lot of road travel? Three link or four link?

[@dominicteresi3835]

Is it possible to put the pan heart bar behind the axle instead of out front