Kawasaki ER 500 - Backyard Bike Project Update - Episode 6

[@SuperTelecom]

Glad to see I'm not the only one who gets a hard on over free stickers. I nearly like my Renthal stickers as much as their sprockets.

[@motorcyclerefurbishment8162]

Wow. ....you're racing ahead with this. Youw ill be going for a spin around the block by Easter.....

[@dirtygarageguy]

ROY Dean Thats the idea, have to get some fluids this weekend - matt

[@motorcyclerefurbishment8162]

How's the move going, looks like a very long move..............

[@dirtygarageguy]

Slowly, too slowly. I have to pack everything up, collect the keys to the new place and then find time moving everything over the weekends. But once done everything will be better.

[@thermaldog]

really excellent videos. I have an ER-5A3 1999, recently it has been using a lot more fuel than normal, and there is a strong smell of petrol in the exhaust. It also has been stalling if left to idle or if the revs drop too low, and there is a lag on the acceleration. Sometimes it wont even start and not as much power as before. Any ideas what this could be? thanks

[@dirtygarageguy]

Hello mate, sorry for the late reply. Well it can be a few things so here we go 1. The engine is flooding, this can be a few things but we'll star with the easy ones. Check that the choke cable is tight. If the choke isn't disengaged properly then you'll be flooding the engine. You could have a cable that is too tight or the cable or actuator is sticking. I've put up a picture of facebook here - facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1784206295179818&set=a.1383911205209331.1073741828.100007713935651&type=3 Check the return spring in red. Make sure this spring is in good knick and thats its there in the first place The cable attaches here in blue. Operate the choke and check that the cable operates in a similar fashion at the carbs. And the two choke plunggers are highlighted in green. Make sure these plungers are moving with little to no resistance. 2. The diaphragm can be damaged. Under the black plastic covers are rubber diaphragms that react to pressure changes in the carbs. These meter the fuel by controlling the slide and main jet needle. If they are damaged then this can cause a rich fuelling failure mode. They need to be free from splits or any cracking etc. The should be springy and not dry (i.e stiff and none rubbery lol) it looks like this - thumbs4.picclick.com/d/l400/pict/162279191691_/Yamaha-XV-535-Virago-1988-2002-Carb-Carburettor-Diaphragm.jpg 3. Check your airbox for excess fuel. You need to check the airbox because any excess fuel will trickle from the carb into it. This fuel then makes its way to the bottom of the airbox and down the crankcase breather hose. A small black piece of pipe that enter the engine via the top of the gearbox. This is an important step. If you find fuel is in the airbox then you WILL need to change your oil, sooner rather than later. The petrol will dilute your oil and this can cause a whole load of problems you don't need. In summary the bike is cutting out at idle because the fuel mixture is too rich. The power is down, again because its too rich and excess unburnt fuel is flowing out of the exhaust port. I've probably missed a few possibilities but this is a good place to start. If you want a more direct reply (a back and forward) then feel free to 'friend' me on facebook then I can send you picture and such easier Facebook - facebook.com/pony.power.395 Hope this helps - matt

[@thermaldog]

Matt, thanks very much. I will indeed check the choke cable and air box. I was also told to look at the oil level and check it has not increased (due to fuel etc). Im not a mechanic so cant open up the carburettor but a local mechanic can. Could the spark plugs be causing any of these problems?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Yeah, but unlikely. Your spark plug and coil pack or either could be bad, you could check the resistance of the coil and the spark plug gap. You don't need to be a mechanic to open up a carb unless you have no hands

[@thermaldog]

Ok Matt thanks again, i will go through the steps you have suggested.

[@dirtygarageguy]

No worries mate - matt

[@DaHitch]

Didn't you look at the electrics back in episode 3 or so? :p Great series though, I've been fixing up a '98 Hornet over the last few weeks but it doesn't look nearly as bad as this one. :-)

[@dirtygarageguy]

***** Shame cause I'll be buying a hornet before the years out and it'll be getting the same treatment. - matt

[@DaHitch]

Definitely looking forward to that! On a side note, have you got any tips for removing the carburettor assembly? I tried getting it off the Hornet today, undid all the cables and hoses, loosened all the clamps but it just wouldn't budge. :/

[@dirtygarageguy]

***** Sometimes the manifolds perish abit and kinda melt themselves together. Best method I've used to to stick a flat piece of wood about 3 ft long and 1/2 inch by 1 inch. Straight across the back of the carb (between the carb and the engine) and lever it away. Just make sure you loosened everything. The circular clamps I would remove completly, before trying this. Hope this helps - matt

[@DaHitch]

I'll try that next time it get around to it.

[@alexestefanesturbo]

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