DIY aluminum zero-clearance table saw insert - using only woodworking tools!

The #zeroclearance insert for the #tablesaw lets you make thin cuts on this versatile tool. You can easily DIY one out of wood, but I used #aluminum! It was a challenging build, but the final result was worth the effort. Plus: I installed an #MJSplitter on my metal insert - watch along to see how it goes!

[@krperry2007]

I’m not too experienced with my table saw but I do like using the riving knife. It’s like having another hand at the back of the blade.

[@theofarmmanager267]

One comment from a very old (that really means lots and lots of mistakes) woodworker. For efficient dust extraction from the underneath of the blade, you need to create a path for the vacuum to pull air (and the dust through). A zero clearance insert is essential for some cuts but that zero clearance means that there is very little path left for air to be drawn into the vacuum hose. Solutions are either to use a zero clearance insert only when really needed (cutting narrow strips) and put up with the sawdust for those few cuts or to make holes in the insert away from the blade slot and on the side away from the fence. Those holes will be the path for air to get into the blade vacuum. Sawdust is an inevitability in a wood shop. I’ve never managed to eliminate it at source on every machine. For a table saw, if it’s practical for you, I would suggest filling in all the holes and gaps in the cabinet itself so that air can only come in from the insert and thus providing the most efficient path for the sir to collect the sawdust and enter into the vacuum. Some of those gaps or holes can be sealed permanently with tape or shaped wood. The biggest hole is usually around the blade tilt mechanism. If your cabinet is made of steel, A4 magnetic sheets allow you to fill that hole and yet remove it to tilt the blade. I’m lucky in that I have my table saw permanently positioned. I have made an overhead vacuum system to capture all the dust that comes of the top of the blade. I used to have a system that was fixed to the floor and came across the the table with a boom. The big frustration with that was when you needed to cross cut longer pieces. That floor stand was always on the way. Now my boom comes down from the ceiling; the height is adjustable (one piece slides into another) and, if I remove 2 bolts, the whole thing can be removed. I appreciate not everybody can do these things or even wants to do these things but they might help someone.

[@316woodworks9]

Bravo! Layout fluid in my Amazon cart!

[@danielaruta8816]

Awesome instructional video. I love the router trimming bit idea. I am going to build an aluminum insert for my Craftsman 100 from the 60s.

[@JRobertClark]

Sounds great! Share pics when you do. I'd love to see it.

[@glg3945]

Hi, nice to see you again! Hope you had a great vacation! Great information and demonstration. I enjoy your videos. Peace and Good Fortune and Good Health to you and your family.

[@JRobertClark]

Thank you so much! I appreciate you and your support.

[@adampowell8617]

Great work!

[@JRobertClark]

Thanks, Adam!

[@carterscustomrods]

I could never imagine using a table saw without a riving knife. It drastically increases the danger of cutting for me. Do you have the ¼-20 hole underneath the insert plate where the original knife was mounted? It might be worth trying to make an aluminum angle riving knife or short splitter in there somehow. I got lucky, and my blade alignment is a hair under .001" on my saw.. and even with that, I've had riving knives save me many a time (and i use one-way roller hold downs, as well as one-way roller type featherboards. I can't afford to take any chances.

[@carterscustomrods]

Is that the 315? I just got the 315.228310, brand new, for $50. But no fence rails. It has the new dust cover riving knife (but i removed the cover part and kept the knife. But its aggravating so im looking for a better way. However, I'm not a fan of splitters... so i might nake my own dust cover that mounts to the single ¼-20 under the plate. With that said, im liking the aluminum aspect. I really like the version from Infinity... but its ½ the price I paid for a new fence/rails lol... so its not easy to pull the trigger and buy one.

[@doughaber3330]

Haunting music. Neat idea. Deadly for an over zealous beginner and maybe even a seasoned pro. If wood is too unstable, maybe use PVC like Izzy Swan or Lexan or Delrin. In all fairness, what is the advantages of aluminum over stable wood or other synthetic material? 'Cause somebody gonna F up and end up in the ER or a grave. You did do a great job though and I like the fluid idea!

[@JRobertClark]

Thanks for the comment, Douglas. Working with aluminum is no more dangerous than other materials, so long as you do it correctly and with safety in mind. I do appreciate your concerns and agree that one must be up to the challenge. As for why aluminum- just to see if I could. The metal has a nice look, and I wanted to expand my experience working with the stuff. Thanks again for commenting!

[@wrstlngstud82]

Lots of work, pretty cool. I have a thought on that splitter: What if a guy took a small piece of angle aluminum, and from the bottom side, put it through the blade slot and fastened it with that torch aluminum brazing stuff? Naturally, it wouldn't work with the blade all the way up, but it would work with all scenarios where the blade is only partially up. Just a thought, thanks for the video.

[@JRobertClark]

Thanks for watching and commenting, Kelsey. Good suggestion - after the build, I considered making a custom splitter but didn't think of your idea. I'll update if I give it a try. Thanks again!

[@chagildoi]

Awesome, glad to see you back! Any tips for dealing with aluminum filings vs sawdust?

[@JRobertClark]

Great question. You can recycle it all, but some centers will not accept mixed chips. I've been saving mine while looking for a good option. I'll update if/when I come up with a solution. Thanks for asking!

[@karlalton3170]

When you cut the zero slot dude , did you use the wood blade ? or a metal cutting blade ? and how many teeth ? Cheers in advance 😁😁🤘🤘

[@JRobertClark]

Karl - I used a 60 tooth multi-purpose blade. This was fine, but I recently purchased an 80 tooth aluminum-specific blade and it makes much cleaner cuts. LMK if you decide to give this a try!

[@CAHEXPERIMENT]

Dont use metal if you updrage zero clearance with smaller hole, safety first