DIY Chimney Crown repair

DIY Chimney Crown repair. I show you all the steps I used (chipping out the old crown, cutting plywood (I recommend using 1/2" Hardie Backer), expansion joint, installing mesh, troweling the mortar, applying sealer, high temperature silicone in expansion joint & new cap) to repair this chimney crown.
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Product Links:
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MUSIC:
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Blue Sky - IKSON
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Morning - LIQWYD
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Videos produced by Willow’s World of DIY are provided for informational purposes only. All material provided within this website is for informational, educational, & entertainment purposes only. Some of these projects, materials, and techniques may not be appropriate for all ages or skill levels. The DIY instructions used here are used to simply breakdown projects to their simplest steps. Please use a clear mind and use all safety precautions while following the tutorials provided by this site. Willow’s World of DIY does not make any claims of the safety of the projects, techniques, or resources listed on this site and will not take responsibility of what you do with the information provided by this site. Viewers must be aware by doing projects on their homes they are doing it at their own risk and Willow’s World of DIY cannot be held liable if they cause any damage to their homes. With different codes around the world and constantly changing standards, regulations and rules, it is the sole responsibility of the viewer to educate themselves on their local requirements before undertaking any sort of project. That being said Willow’s World of DIY cannot claim liability with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. Be safe, have fun renovating and ALWAYS stay informed with your local building code.
#Chimney #Crown #Repair #DIY

[@elliots5311]

Mortar is for laying brick and tuckpointing. You should use concrete for the crown and also build a form so there's a minimum 1.5" overhang.

[@justinross1927]

Why just wondering cause we use mortar +Portland .

[@youngprince716]

@@justinross1927 because mortar regardless if it’s type s n or m is for being in btwn joints. Concrete does slightly Better when exposed to water than mortar does.

[@skaizun]

2" overhang is standard.

[@cejanuary9378]

Are there any pre-mixed concrete products from a basic home store that you'd recommend that could be used by the DIYer?

[@elliots5311]

@@cejanuary9378 lowes, home depot, and menards all sell concrete mix in 60lb bags. Just be sure to buy enough. If you're going less than 2 inches/patching you should use some sand topping mix.

[@ryoung5481]

This was a great video, perfect speed, fantastic explanations. Thank you

[@bandit08]

“Im not tired, you’re tired!” Best line ever! 🤣

[@vincentclohessy8404]

Superb demonstration. Really appreciate your efforts. 👍

[@tickyul]

Excellent, no frittering-about, just got in there and worked!

[@toddbellows5282]

Beautiful work. In cold climates, a 1 or 2 inch overhang is needed to prevent water from running down the sides of the chimney. This causes spalling of the brick from freeze/thaw cycling.

[@Lafue108]

Exactly my experience as well and is what is typically required by standards. The brick degrades so much faster with these tapered edge chimney washes.

[@vincentbay6373]

Looks great. Great job!

[@philipneri9482]

I just have a few cracks…what a nice job you did!

[@dalependleton6420]

Very educational. I have a contractor that has been at my house twice now and the thing leaks worst than it ever did...I will use this info. Thank you!

[@adamburnette]

could be cracked grout or flashing as well.

[@SparkG448]

A really nice job, well done!

[@bigtime37ja]

Excellent job sir.

[@adamheckle2198]

perfect demo! Thanks for the good info!

[@bradlarsen6817]

Excellent work!

[@thomasb.1825]

This video was really awesome ! … very efficient .. it shows in a relatively short vid the very important details that you definitely need … I’ve just come across your page for the first time and I’m already eager to watch the other vids you made! thank you so much ! You’re a good podcaster and mason 😅

[@bandit08]

Great work & awesome video!

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

Thanks Bandit!

[@UKNOWMESCP]

good job on the prep!

[@mrcarroll3204]

Great video. Great job!

[@johnshields9511]

Looks great!

[@doctored6749]

Hi Ed here from OSHA. Trying to call you about your invisible safety belt. Excellent job by the way!

[@thechimneyboys4990]

Loved the video. Very entertaining!

[@JNedoCT]

Great video all around. 👍

[@Lazy_ambition]

Thank you very much, I am using your video to fix my chimney 😅😊

[@myrnamorales1231]

What a beautiful job 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@hang4963]

Nice job done

[@owensadventures8941]

Damn dude! Nice job man! Did some good work therr

[@j.m.2506]

Great job!

[@karunald]

Good job!

[@hughmorris2008]

super nice job

[@Galidi1969]

Good video....thank you!

[@dodo13500]

Nice work!

[@patrickwilson4902]

Is my chimney's been laken and I think I know the problem I have none on mine. Thanks I'm gonna follow your steps and hopefully it does STOP LEAKING!!!!!! The man that's trying to build-up my credit score from Indianapolis 🇺🇲

[@adventureescape1929]

Holy shit I'm going to be able to do this myself. Thank you!

[@jarrett7774]

Dude, the intro with the sound of beer pouring, and the blooper at the end...lmao. Nice work too, btw!

[@IgorWise]

I use reinforced concrete. Fast Set Hi Strength Concrete. The result is better. But your work is good too.

[@lovelovelybe3850]

Everything looked correct except next time use concrete backer board instead of plywood. I’ve seen numerous wooden supports like this turn into charcoal underneath which causes the chimney crown to fail over time. Other then that, great job

[@carlomezzatesta4659]

Great job, But I agree with the above I would have used slate instead of plywood. It doesn't warp, rot or expand and the mortar would have bonded much better to it.

[@Drummaster412]

Not to mention it's against code to have combustible material incorporated into a chimney build. Sorry but He doesn't know what he's doing.

[@RossPotts]

I’m never gonna be able to do this, but it still gives me an idea of what I need to ask to get done. The crown on my chimney is old and cracked fairly significantly. WHO do I talk to, to assess all of the damage? A mason or chimney sweep? Good video!

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

Thanks Ross! I would contact a mason to give you an estimate. A chimney sweep might also do it, but most likely they will refer you to a mason. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@youngprince716]

Brick mason

[@unclestupidrich9510]

Good job thank you!!!! God bless. I had mine looked at today and I need heat shield. I have 2 two story chimneys and the mortar is no bueno lol. Do you know anything about that? God bless you for this beautiful work.

[@spymaine89]

excellent

[@markbloyd1224]

I'm never done chimney work, but from what I do know about similar types of work, it looks like you did an excellent job. Thanks for sharing.

[@raterus]

I don't know if I'll ever repair my chimney crown, but if I do, I hope it looks as good as this one!

[@nazariovillasenor7338]

Great Job! I have a question about the sealant you used. Did the tube specified that it was "Indoor/Outdoor" as well as if could be used on concrete/mortar? I can't seem to find the proper sealant Thank you for creating the video!

[@katiepeters9363]

That looks awesome!

[@youngprince716]

Using a hammer drill and drilling with maybe a qtr inch bit into a few spots in that old mud that was on the flue... is usually a safe way to help break up mortar before u start chiseling. 👍

[@absolutepowdercoatingllc8522]

Love your videos! Great work, nice and clean

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

Thanks! I'm so glad you love my videos! Thanks you so much for watching!

[@trentdingman5993]

Looks great! Did you drill into the bricks to put the wood boards down?

[@handydoc2531]

That is some fantastic work. You should be very proud of the job. Great video.

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

Thank you very much!

[@peterjackson3285]

Great video, you have given me the info and confidence to tackle my chimney crown. Hardie backer board is a great suggestion for the mortar base. The only thing I wasn’t really clear about is how you screwed your plywood down into the brick. Did you use expansion anchors? Thanks again Bye for now Chris

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

In this video I screwed the screws into open joints between the bricks and then packed the joints with mortar afterwards. Not all chimneys will have open joints like mine did, so I would recommend using Tapcon concrete screws to anchor the Hardie backer to the bricks or in the mortar joints. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@xWilcoXx]

Wow...excellently done. Watching this just proves to me that I'm in over my head. Hahaha

[@toddoliver3385]

You did an excellent job filming and editing the video. Couple things I noticed... The crown should be bigger than the bricks, to allow water to shed easily. The water running down the side will erode the bricks-and-mortar. The wire mesh you installed should be in the middle of the crown, the crown is hardly thick enough.

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

That's true. I thought about doing a 2" drip edge all the way around it, but I looked at all my neighbors chimneys and not one of them had a drip edge on the chimney crown. I think they did it this way because the top 2 rows of brick steps out about 1" more than the rest of the bricks creating a drip edge. I did put sealer on the bricks and mortar to hopefully protect it from erosion. Time will tell if it will last. So far it still looks great after the first winter and we got quite a bit of snow this year. Thanks for your advice & Thanks for watching!

[@joshjepkema1141]

What you did is called a Flush Crown (ends flush with brick). Many masons do this so can leave same day. NOT good for longevity of brick and Chimney. Should ALWAYS be concrete crown to hold up longer. Thermal break great against flue, should also be between brick and crown.

[@mbmb5803]

Good observations. This guy Willow knows nothing about chimney crowns. If he’s charging homeowners for repairs like this, he’s hosing people. And creating more maintenance repair calls soon after he’s done. Lots of information out there showing the right way to do a crown. Ignore this Willow guy!!

[@carlosmorgado7397]

@@joshjepkema1141 are you saying there should be space between the crown and the brick? That doesn't even make sense..

[@joshjepkema1141]

@@carlosmorgado7397 yes you should have a break, we use 30# felt between concrete and brick as well as the flues. Flues grow upwards when they heat up.

[@AMATHYST0793]

I work on chimneys here in california but I never seen anyone use plywood to close off those openings. I've seen some technicians use lath.

[@justme7303]

dude --- excellent work. can you please come to Texas and do mine? your professionalism showed in every step. verrry nice!

[@akaredcrossbow]

Doesn’t the plywood expand and contract allowing the crown to crack again, plus it’s combustible? Could you use cement board or thinner wire mesh to achieve the same goal? Thank you

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I don't have any problems with using plywood in my area (dry climate), plus I checked for any cracks in my clay liner. I recommend using a Hardie backer cement board if you live in a area that gets a lot of moisture or if you have cracks in the clay liner. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@akaredcrossbow]

@@WillowsWorldofDIY Thank you!

[@skaizun]

The temperature of most flues at the top of the chimney is less than that of either the boiler or fireplace at the point of combustion, and rarely exceed 200 degrees F, well below the burning point of plywood (around 250 F, depending on thickness; n.b., some flues can emit temps in excess of 400 F, but, those are, usually, short stacks, such as those used for a backyard, brick, oven). Adding an expansion joint, such that the wood does not come into direct contact with the flue, further reduces the temperature by as much as 50 F, depending on the distance/width of the joint (3/8" is industry standard). So, the odds of the plywood burning are very low, assuming everything else is done, correctly, which, unfortunately, even professional masons can screw up. However, having said all this, a metal plate or cement board is the professional choice, since neither will expand/contract/burn under normal environmental and chimney temps. Do a search on repairing/replacing chimney crowns, and you may be very surprised at the different opinions, not to mention that not all rules apply to all types of chimneys, not to mention zoning regulations, which, usually, express minimum values, and may be too limited for a given application.

[@akaredcrossbow]

@@skaizun Thank you!

[@ennismccaffrey3227]

Excellent video, thanks so much.

[@zplitterz]

What do think about extending the crown over the edge of brick for a drip edge? Seems like a good idea.

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I definitely think a drip edge is a good idea and will extend the life of the chimneys brick and mortar joints. Thanks for watching!

[@bike2015]

Use concrete board for the open cavities also pour concrete for your crown with a minimum of 4 inches thick and 1.5 inches overhang

[@normgraham8630]

1. The mesh needs to be in the concrete. Not under it. 2. The crown needs to be larger then then chimney. So, you need to build a form around the chimney. 3. I have never seen a chimney cap put on with silicone.

[@TheGucciman007]

The video is solid but a couple of questions? Why did you use mortar for the cap? Concrete is so much better and durable. how did you secure the wood to the chimney ? 2" screws in the brick? Why didn't you extend the cap so the water doesn't run down the bricks?

[@jthkeystone]

Mortar is not the best thing to use for the cap, when used in that thickness it will usually crack. Concrete is much better, we usually use a premixed concrete called Quikrete 5000, it is a high strength concrete that comes in 60 or 80 pound bags, you just add water and mix. But be careful not to add to much water, you want to keep it on the stiff side. This will make it easier to shape, also helps from smearing up the brick like he did, it will give you a higher strength concrete and reduce the chance of a shrinkage crack. Best is to form and pour a concrete cap with a 1-1/2 overhang. If you do it like he did with no forms, try to keep your edges at least 2” thick. Instead of wood you can also use several prices of 3/8” rebar with the wire mesh over top, but make sure the rebar ends stop at least 2” from the edges. Many chimneys are not hollow like that one so then you would not need to use wood or mesh on top.

[@adamzgi55]

I've ran into thousands of Chimneys believe me most if not all crowns are done improperly.

[@Edwharr1234]

Willow You can use plywood to support the wash you installed it looks good but not right. Look it up wood forms shall be removed

[@really2345]

Thanks for taking the time to make the video! What kind of mortar should I use? Why did you use mortar instead of concrete?

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I used Quikrete mortar in this video. Concrete is stronger than mortar but is harder to shape, and is a lot harder remove when it fails. Most chimney crowns are done with mortar, I would say at least 90% of them, if not more. The crown is not load bearing so concrete is not needed. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@really2345]

Hi Willow, thanks for the quick response! I will do as you suggest. I have cleared away the old crown and will create a new one with Quikrete mortar mix. I am thinking of using type s if that is alright. Again, thank you for the well thought out and produced video.

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

@@really2345 Thanks! Type S will work great on the chimney crown. Make sure you seal it with a good concrete sealer or crown coat. I recommend using 1/2" Hardy Backer board instead of the plywood if you live in an area that gets a lot of moisture or if there is any visible cracks in the liner. I hope this is helpful. Thanks again!

[@really2345]

@@WillowsWorldofDIY Thank you for the advice. Will do as you suggest.

[@rogergodin6443]

Do you secure plywood with tap cons into brick? I missed that part😀

[@1leggedparrot]

Been in the chimney business over a year now. Do not use combustible material that close to a chimney flue. Use durock instead

[@theodoreschmidt1060]

well done my friend. simple yet effective. diy. why cant all women be like this video. oh snap. here we go. lol

[@WeatherNut27]

Awesome timelapse and video... Looked like a perfect day to do that. Im gonna tackle this myself in Spring but use backerboard instead of plywood. Subscribed.

[@georgealford8411]

Didy gou useactual morteror concrete on the top?

[@subokboy5577]

Good job my friend thanks for sharing this video from Philippines SUBOK BOY

[@carllarson8562]

nice video. i need to do a similar project.. can you tell me specifically what type of cement is used for this. I am in the Chicago area where we have lots of cold. Not sure if that matters. Also, do you use the same cement for repointing?

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I used 3 80lb bags of Quickrete Mortar for this chimney crown, and I used the same mortar for the entire crown, this House is located in Colorado and they definitely get snow. I know some people that use Quickrete Cement for added strength and longevity but it is harder to shape during repointing. You will have to use a different wire mesh with larger holes if you decide to use cement instead of mortar. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@andrewsisty0]

@kunta kinte yeah its flammable and expands/contracts with temp changes. Don't want to crack mortar

[@iskateblank100]

The sill expansion wrap is pointless in this case. It’s mortared at the bottom so it’s not going to expand regardless. You’d have to replace the whole piece. AND you didn’t make an overhang so the water is going to run Right down those joints and erode the mortar out of the joints

[@mergsTM]

Beautiful red-nosed pitty at the end. We had one for 15 years. Best dog ever. What is the purpose of the plastic on the wet cement, to prevent cracking when its drying?

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

Thanks Jeff! Miss B is my helper and is in most of my videos. I agree they are the best dogs ever. Yes, I cover the wet concrete with a tarp to prevent cracking while drying. Thanks for watching!

[@markbloyd1224]

It helps keep the mortar from drying too quickly, which is what can cause the cracking.

[@youngprince716]

It’s called a wet cure. U do this while the chemicals are reacting still. Concrete and mortar take 30 days to fully cure although most of it happens in the first 24 hr

[@libbysnowflake6911]

Excellent video! I'm off to Home Depot to buy supplies. Rains coming this weekend....

[@JoseReyes-ou2eu]

I have a question in regards to what wire mesh brand you used ?

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

It is expanded metal sheet I think it the brand is Everbilt, I got it from Home depot. I hope this is helpful. I think for watching!

[@Terry-404]

How much should a job like this cost? I have a similar sized chimney to yours and I got a quote to replace it with a metal crown for $1700. Is that fair?

[@paulmaldonado4867]

Question should you have cleaned mortar sooner so it doesn't leave all that residue.

[@21cstinch]

How much mortar did you use for that job? I have a similar sized chimney. Great video. Thanks for the knowledge.

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I bought 3 80lbs bags of mortar and used 2 and about 3/4 of the 3rd bag. Thanks for watching!

[@TheGucciman007]

You are not supposed to use mortar on the cap. You use concrete last so much longer. Also, he didn't make his cap to extend a little past the bricks. Water on brick not good

[@jimmybob7364]

@@TheGucciman007 This minus the concrete. Yes it does last longer but when it does fail, it is a bitch to clean off versus mortar. It isn't load bearing so mortar is just fine especially if you mix some fine sand in with it to give it more strength. 99% of the time, chiney crowns are mortar. But I agree, there needs to be an overhang else you will always have water running down your chimney to one of the weakest points on the roof...the flashing between roof and chimney. Build a simple 2x4 box around the top and it gives you a 1.5 inch overhang. Most code calls for 2in but let's be honest...nobody is gonna measure it and if they do, .5 will be overlooked. And the frame is easy to remove. The biggest worry I have is him using plywood for the support. Should have used sheet metal or a rebar grid. Don't know if he knows that wood near a clay chimney is not good. But he looks to be in California or somewhere out SouthWest so he probably has gas anyways.

[@jlogue34]

Wow! Great work. Really clear explanation and helpful tips along the way. Curious. What mortar mix did you use? Have you ever run into a damaged clay liner? Can that be repaired as well?

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

Thanks Jed! I used normal Quikrete Mortar in this video, you can use type S mortar for additional strength. If the clay liner is damaged I usually try to replace it if possible, but it really depends on how bad the damage is, and where the damage is in the chimney. You can use product called Heat Shield to coat the inside of a cracked clay liner to repair it or install a Stainless steel liner. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@gangelkoski]

There is no drip edge. You've should frame ut out with drip edge,and pour concrete with metal lath. Thats right way when you do new chimney crown

[@mbmb5803]

Willow doesn’t know what the heck he’s doing. Unless this is an example of a quick fix for a real estate flip. He's a real hack

[@JR-yi7ll]

Great work, do you remember how many hours it took you to do the whole thing?

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I think it took about 6 hours total. It took about 4-1/2 hours the first day to do the tare out, cut the wood and wire mesh, pour and shape the mortar and cover it with the tarp. The 2nd day took about 1-1/2 hours to seal the concrete, fill the expansion gap and install the chimney cap. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@lloydcauley4615]

@@WillowsWorldofDIY 3

[@rlta04]

I had no idea plywood is in there. Is this normal. Doesn' it get hot or have issues with the wood in there?

[@1leggedparrot]

Durock sheets intead of plywood. Always use non combustible material

[@albuquerque98]

What kind of mortar did you use? Thanks!

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

Normal Quickrete Mortar. Thanks for watching!

[@jingyak7]

That is what I need to do for my chimney. Work like that how much could be cost to me? I live in San Diego, CA.

[@yeahyousaidit]

I got quoted $1900 for this plus cleaning smh

[@morgenmclean4255]

Why caulk to a clay flu ? Pretty impressed with results with not pouring for such a big crown

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I used Hi Temp silicone to allow room for expansion of the clay flu when it gets hot. Leaving a little room for the clay flu to expand when it gets hot will help prevent the clay flu from cracking in the future. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@josegarcia7887]

how much would you charge for a job like this?

[@brucebeamon5460]

Nice job man .... I’m looking to have this done on my chimney , I do understand your video is called diy but I’m interested in knowing how much should this chimney repair cost ( knowing most job aren’t exactly the the same , even a ball park figure would be helpful. Thanks in advance

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I'm not sure what a professional mason in your area would charge. I would of charged about $1000 for this chimney crown repair in this video. Depending on where you live, how high up the crown is and cost of supplies could drive the price up. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@skaizun]

While sill plate (the blue, styrofoam, wrap, around the flue to be used to fill the expansion joint as shown in the vid) is commonly used, it is only good for up to 160 degrees F, whereas most flues at the top can emit 180-400, depending on the chimney source, purpose, height, etc. A thermal blanket with a min 180 F rating is a better, albeit, more expensive, choice. Look for the ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) label on the package to determine its viablity; unfortunately, there is a broad range of ASTM specifications for a variety of applications, but, obviously, if the product says it can withstand 180, then you're, probably, good to go for most, standard, residential, chimney, applications (it shouldn't surprise anyone that the higher the min temp, the more expensive it will be). You may also use rock wool, but, it should be double-faced with foil, which is hard to find, even for contractors. And you can (should) leave the sill plate or other wrap in the expansion joint, and then seal it with cement caulk (not cement) and/or tar or tar caulk (n.b., do NOT use expansion foam spray cans, as they are porous and not good for outdoor use, not to mention that, once cured, they do not expand/contract well, which is why they are rarely used for outdoor purposes).

[@MinionAtTheGate]

It looked to me like the blue foam wrap was used as a temporary spacer and removed once the mortar was dry, then replaced with high-temp silicone

[@1stockdale159]

@@MinionAtTheGate . You are correct, after removing it he used a high temp caulk

[@pumpkingotdatsexappeal]

So the question is how much you charge to NY to do mines? I enjoyed the DIY but, you did an excellent job and would prefer to pay you to do it. So let me know if you're in NY. Thank you!

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I wish I could help you but unfortunately I don't live near NY. Thanks for watching!

[@pumpkingotdatsexappeal]

@@WillowsWorldofDIY well, your work looks great. Thanks for the tips. 👍🏽🙏🏽

[@Rabbitsarewonderful]

Your hired! Seriously though, do you do this for others, and are you anywhere near Denver?

[@willbarrett4312]

Hey dorothy. I do the same work but out of Albuquerque NM. About 6 hours south. I do take up bigger projects up there. Full restoration and such. If this gentleman can not provide the work or an est feel free to message me. I do come with Google reviews and such. Not some down the road guy (Actually certified).

[@Rabbitsarewonderful]

@@willbarrett4312 Well I just had it done on Saturday! I doubt they did as good a job as you would have, but I'm hoping they did an adequate one. The old crown turned out to just be a heap of left over mortar. It became a sand bomb when they went to bust it out. They did the form (which is still up there). They also used a custom foam bell to push Heat Shield product into the few gaps in mortar between flue tiles. They worked from 2 in the afternoon until 11:15 at night (with spotlights after dark). I would prefer the new cement not be sealed with any product, but they said they sometimes have to do that if there were any bubbles in the new crown surface. Will let you know how it turns out after the form and supports are removed.

[@willbarrett4312]

@@Rabbitsarewonderful Sounds good. If their using heat shield product I'd say they know what their doing.

[@Rabbitsarewonderful]

@@willbarrett4312 So they took the forms off today and started to seal the newly poured crown with crown coat. I could hardly believe my eyes! The top was wavy, dipped and ragged. i yelled up and asked if they should be grinding it first to smooth it all out or something. I have a picture (you would be horrified). They tried to tell me no one has ever complained about it before. I said I don't care, it isn't acceptable. So, after a lot of uncomfortable back and forth, they are going to come out again and grind it even though it now has the crown coat on it I'm so sad about this. All the pictures I saw on the internet show crowns like the one in your video -- really smooth and even. They tried to blame it on rain, but they chose to work in the rain! I just don't know.

[@willbarrett4312]

@@Rabbitsarewonderful I do apologize that sounds like an awkward situation. I must say this video isnt mine. I normally smooth the edges after pulling the form. How big is your crown?

[@caiwilliams8991]

What about ventilation?

[@nickking7067]

What mortar did you use

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I used regular Quikrete mortar.

[@pozmarciv]

Hi , What name brand silicone did you use?

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

High Temperature RTV Silicon: amzn.to/38q8XtN​ I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@pozmarciv]

Great.. thanks and nice job

[@donthesheek]

Wouldn't it be better to use aluminum or stainless steel sheeting instead of plywood on base of crown ?

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I’ve never used aluminum or stainless but I do recommend using hardy backer cement board instead of plywood especially if you live in an area that gets lots of moisture. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@donthesheek]

@@WillowsWorldofDIY Thanks I know the hardy backer is used in bathroom tub and shower applications. 👍

[@doyrayburn2668]

No overhang?

[@julieclemons6701]

Thanks Willow. That's my own name too. Are you by any chance near Kansas City Mo? I would hire you!!(edit: if not, how much should this cost? Top of chimney is 6' above a 2-story house)

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

Sorry I don't live near KC. I'm not sure what a professional chimney mason would charge to do this repair and It's hard to say without seeing it. I would probably charge $1000 for my single story and It cost me about $270 in materials to repair my own chimney crown. So a ruff guess on your 2 story without seeming it would probably be $1500-$2000. That's a long way up Carrying 5 gallon buckets of mortar. I hope you can find someone good to repair yours. Make sure that they install an expansion gap around the clay liner. When the clay liner gets hot it expands and will crack the motor and the clay liner and won't last very long If the expansion gap is not installed. I hope you found this video helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@julieclemons6701]

@@WillowsWorldofDIY oh my. In my younger days, I'd climb up a ladder and paint a sign 30' AGL...still have the fearlessness but at my age, it's synonymous with foolhardiness! 😣Thanks for the fine advice!!!

[@julieclemons6701]

Willow, it's Ms Willow. ..a neighbor, from Mexico, climbed up there and did the job with his older boss (guess he's 65) for $300!! Guess God must have sent them to help ,keeping me off the roof!

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

@@julieclemons6701 Wow Ms Willow!! That's Great!!! I'm so glad you didn't have to get up there yourself. $300 is only $30 more than it cost me to do my chimney crown. I think you got a really good deal!!

[@davileett1224]

@@WillowsWorldofDIY How did your materials cost $270?

[@McMuffinat0r]

Plywood?

[@ibrahiymghany5144]

I'm not tired! Your tired!!!

[@11alexstreet]

Just subscribed! Is it necessary to always remove the old mortar from the crown? My existing mortar is very thin and only cracked around the corners of the crown. Would it be dumb to just mortar over it?

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

the new mortar won't adhere properly to the existing mortar, so it won't last long and will start cracking away from the existing mortar. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@domcapers366]

Use concrete board instead of wood. Wont retain moisture there bud

[@leonardosudre4148]

how much for the job

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

I'm not a Professional Chimney Mason but I would charge $1000-$1200 to do a chimney crown like the one in this video.

[@thedajate45]

The problem I have with my chimney is that squirrels are getting inside the flue or chute

[@WillowsWorldofDIY]

Installing a chimney cap should prevent the squirrels from getting inside the flue or chute. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@robertedwards2453]

What holds the middle pipe in place?

[@yoitspuaphan]

The middle pipe as you call it, also known as a chimney flue, is stacked in 2 ft sections directly on top of each other, (supposed to be) held together by heat-rated masonry. Below the top of the brick and mortar, there should be a minimal space between the flue, and other bricks around it for stability. I would also note, this is absolutely the wrong way to install a chimney crown, and this guy has absolutely no idea what he's doing. He laid plywood underneath the crown, the crown itself is hardly 2" thick, he used mortar instead of concrete (his reasoning because it's easier, easier doesn't mean it's right), and he stated in the comments that he put a water sealer on the masonry. There's a vast difference between water sealers and water proofers, and in most cases, those who don't know use water sealers on chimneys which leads to faster deterioration of the masonry over time. This was an absolutely terrible job, and I'm not even in the chimney industry anymore.

[@robertedwards2453]

@@yoitspuaphan I had a guy come out and take a look at my chimney, it was built in the 30s out of rock and is still in good shape. He recommended running stainless still flue to the top. Installing a new wood burning stove this winter and was trying to educate myself on all of the things needed. Cap also needs replacing. He quoted 1600 to install the wood stove, the flue and cap. Is this a good deal?

[@yoitspuaphan]

@@robertedwards2453 It's too good of a deal. It's so good I'd be worried about what he's doing for you. What you need to do is look up CSIA certified chimney sweeps in your area. Having a fireplace, especially a wood stove, is a HUGE deal, and it could be the difference of having a safe fire, and burning your house down. So the question I'd ask is this: is it worth it to you to be cheap, and rig something that may not work, or invest the extra money to have a safe, functioning fire. Also, with EPA regulations that have gone into effect in 2020 (May I think), only certain types of wood stoves can be sold and installed. The EPA has changed regulations for wood stoves to cut down on emissions. That said, 95% of things that were made prior to 2019 did not meet compliance, and had to be redesigned to meet this requirement. I say that to say, anybody selling you a cheap product, less than $3,000, probably doesn't know what they're doing.

[@yoitspuaphan]

@@robertedwards2453 Now, I will say this: the concept of installing a wood stove in an old flue and fireplace isn't a bad idea, but you have to make sure that it's safe what it's going into. Most stainless steel liners for wood stoves aren't class A, meaning they allow substantial heat to pass through the liner. If there's anything combustible in or near your old chimney, or you have gaps that could allow heat to pass through it, you could be in serious trouble. I say all that to say, I was a certified chimney sweep with the CSIA in my area, but I have since gotten out of the business and am doing something else.

[@robertedwards2453]

@@yoitspuaphan there was already a wood stove insert in the fireplace, I just wanted to update it to a more efficient model. The business installing this fire place and doing the other work is the same business. I was just going to install the fireplace and nothing else but he recommended doing the stainless steel liner and a new cap. I wasnt thinking of old mortor possibly having cracks do to the age. It was build in the 30s but appears to have been built to last because I cant find any cracks anywhere. But I know I should follow his advice jist wasn't sure what something like this would cost.

[@lawpilot8526]

11/4/2023 - How many hours to complete the task?