DIY Front Crank Seal: oil leak repair (all engines!)

[@heidimelcarek3677]

I really like how you enjoy reviving older cars. I saw a tutorial vid by someone who seemed to hate doing the job. It made it more difficult for me to wanna take it on myself. But watching you do it, n hearing stuff like 'where's the fun in that?' aligns much better w how I like to work on my car. So thanks!

[@x-man4702]

I gave you a thumbs up for trying, but there are so many things wrong with this video. 1.- I'll start with the tool: You need push the tool in between the crankshaft and the seal, then use the small bar to pry the seal out. In older vehicles that are still wearing the factory seal, that Harbor Freight tool will be useless. It will break on you very easily. When properly used, that tool is a lifesaver for older seals (15+ years and high mileage). 2.- You're not supposed to use oil on the outside of seal, that can cause the seal to pop up under pressure, just like you described. Use a non-hardening seal like Curil K2 or Curil T, that will help drive the seal in without damaging the outside surface and creating an even better seal once installed. 3.- You need a driver to drive the seal onto the crankshaft to prevent the lips from twisting in opposite direction. 4.- You're not supposed to use a hammer either, you can easily use the crankshaft bolt, a tool socket and washer to drive the seal in slowly and precisely. 5.- I'm pretty sure that's a stretch bolt and can NOT be reused. Moreover, you need to properly torque the new bolt with a torque wrench and not an impact wrench.

[@DaveSender66]

That's why I love these older vehicles. Relatively easy to work on, parts are usually inexpensive and easy to obtain. If you do your preventive maintenance and take care of it it will take care of you! Nice work Ivan !!!!

[@seanclancey5284]

You make that look so easy here where i live in Canada, for starters all 95 Mercury Mystique's are long gone to the heavy metal heaven in the sky. We have a huge problem here with rust 6 months of hard winters to loosen up bolts here on cars, you need a torch in your garage. I done a job in my garage yesturday, had to heat up 2 bolts to get them free and that was on a 2011 Dodge car.

[@petemiller5813]

I used a piece of p.v.c. tube as a seal insertion tool so I did not damage the front of the oil pump. Worked very well.

[@throttlebottle5906]

ditto, I use pieces of grey electrical pvc, so I have both bell ends and straight ends ( different sizes) pvc couplings and other fitting work well too!

[@leedress2187]

I love seeing the harbor freight tools that I own in a video. For the shade tree mechanic, you really can't go wrong. If they break, it's a quick trip for another one. I love that ratchet. I use it all the time. You can get almost anywhere with it.

[@caseyhill3915]

That's cool to hear what you are doing in your new job. I'm the I.T. administrator for the Emerson Machinery Health Manager that the company I work for uses. It also does frequency analysis on rotating equipment for preventative maintenance. We are currently expanding our use of wireless data collectors in the field. Always thought it amazing how well those wireless collectors deal with the EMF from being in close proximity to industrial equipment.

[@elcheapo5302]

I'm not above using a couple drywall screws and a pair of pliers. Looking forward to the belt vid!

[@Garcansdad]

I do a lot of work on Chevy big blocks. I usually use double lip seals because sometimes there is a slight groove worn in the crank and a single lip seal will leak. With cars...it's always something.

[@johnaclark1]

Ivan, watching you work on the floor is painful. I am exactly one month in to my MaxJax installation, similar to the one that guy had in your last Hyundai evap video. The only difference is mine is the new one which has automatic locks on the way up rather than the manual bars you put in. I know you're not doing this full time anymore, and I don't do it full time either, but it has been the best $2400 I've ever spent and is worth every single penny, and then some. It has changed my life. I leave one post bolted to the floor all the time and move the other one aside when not in use so my wife can still park in the garage. Best tool ever and paid for by my side work.

[@hypnolobster]

I've found that a paint can key (the little bent steel ones that are almost shaped like an old skeleton key) are incredible for pulling crank seals. The drywall screw and sidecutters works pretty well too, of course.

[@herberar]

I don't lubricate the outer side of my seals. Thats how you avoid them popping out and loosing your engine oil . Cheers!!!

[@oggy4418]

Nothing to worry about really most if not all of the oil get wipe away by the edge of the housing or vice versa if you oil the inside of the housing by the seal during insertion. If you don't believe me by two pieces and make an experiment for yourself🙂

[@stephenlawrence4362]

Nice job Ivan, good to see you on vid again. You looked a little tired. Don't forget to take time for yourself. Hope the new job is going well, but sounds like a lot of traveling. Take care

[@bigmac965]

$200+ for that OTC seal remover tool! Yipes! I'll go the Harbor Freight route like Ivan!

[@arsinoeivlostprincess4228]

t's been some time, but I recall going into the kitchen draw and way in the back was an old metal lobster pick with a sharp point, a taper, and a mild curve. It worked. I also recall making a small hole with a pick on the metal part of the seal and threading a small screw and pulling on that. Those seals had the consistency of candle wax from the age, heating and cooling and chemicals.

[@wyattoneable]

I liked hearing a little about your new job. Getting to know you as I have, I could see how the vibration sensors manifesting measurable signals would make you smile. (Thanks for supporting a great channel OTC). Nice job Ivan. Too bad the OTC tool didn't work out as planned, but you have to love it when a less expensive tools works too.

[@ryangroves5554]

very good, 4 years on and still relevant.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

hah some things don't change...will be relevant until electric cars with no oil seals take over the world ;)

[@somerandomguy3868]

Always enjoy a good crank seal video thanks Ivan

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Compared to that damn PT Cruiser I did a timing belt on last week, this Mystique is cavernous under the hood, lol. Sometimes those seals will poke right out if you smack one side of them with a screwdriver carefully - then you can grab it with pliers and yank it the rest of the way. The screw method I just used on the cam seals on that PT. I drilled a small pilot hole first to make it a little easier ... since Chrysler gave me SOOOO MUCH ROOM in that one! 🤣 Congrats on 257k! You got our '86 Grand Marquis beat by 7k miles! 👍

[@dpclout4517]

If you send me the tool I will do a video on it. Followed by, I wish this tool worked like it is supposed to. lol Totally appreciate the honesty Ivan.

[@haywire17]

Free Krown, lol. Back in the '70's, my Dad used to take out his bucket(s) of used motor oil, and dip a large paintbrush in there and coat the entire underside of his car(s). A few drives on our back country (dirt) roads, and it kinda stayed put. I don't know exactly how effective it was, but I'm pretty sure it helped. He looked like a wet chimney sweep in coveralls...

[@bastianfromkwhbsn8498]

My uncle still does that today ;)

[@christheother9088]

Old timers also did that beneath rotary lawn mowers. I tried it when I replaced a tie rod end a couple years ago on various rusty sections and was amazed how well it looked last month when I did the brakes.

[@trashman1694]

Yeah if you live in a rust prone area sometimes it's better to just let your seals/gaskets keep leaking haha

[@snw56]

Recently replaced the same seal on my '96 Chevy S10 with a 4.3 liter engine. Truck has 324,000 miles on the clock. The old seal was so loose, worn out and making an oily mess on the sub-frame. I was fortunate I didn't have to remove the radiator to remove the harmonic balancer. Just barely enough room to get my impact on the bolt without nicking the radiator. The sub-frame is clean and dry today!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great job, Stanley! It is satisfying to do-it-yourself and help an old faithful friend keep rolling down the road :)

[@snw56]

Thanks for making this video, Ivan. Big fan of your channel!

[@throttlebottle5906]

you mean the balancer wasn't grooved so bad the new seal leaked? I put many "sleeve kits" on the old stuff years, of course you can nearly get a balancer now for cheap.

[@snw56]

Not at all. The crankshaft nor the balancer had wear grooves. I was pleasantly surprised.

[@baxrok2.]

Yup, this is my very next thing to do on the Mazda 6 3.0. As soon as the weather is a bit warmer that is! Thanks Ivan!

[@Paul1958R]

Ivan, Thank you for this and the follow up videos - very informative. I have essentially the same Zetec engine in my 02 Focus wagon (5-speed!, 108K miles) and had the same engine in my (now defunct) 01 ZX2 (which was also a 5-speed) that had over 274K miles on it and ran fine except the body was completely rusted out after 15 New England (eastern MA) winters. God bless Paul

[@d.j.9961]

My zetec crossed 300k miles with the original transmission! I purchased a Pontiac G5 with a eco-tec 2.2 ltr & due to the relationship I had then ending & not being able to operate 2 vehicles at once, my 03 focus was left behind for 1 month when my ex sold our house with all our contents intact. Every part on that car was brand new except the engine & trans!!! Prob would have went another 100k without issue considering that everything was new!

[@rrmech11]

I used a sheet metal screw with a dent puller. Nice job Ivan

[@zeke112964]

That's the way I've always done it

[@leod3963]

I like the hook tool method. Will install Original honda crank and cam seal. Have used aftermarket rear main seals and they work great no problems.

[@AP9311]

I hate that annoying oil leaks lol. Where is at inconvenient place! Even though doing it at so simple engine. #Winning! My sister bought a 95 Ford Escort many many years ago, I figure 96-98 maybe. She got it so cheap from a guy who said not running. I fixed it by re-aligning the timing belt which was off by couple tooths, I was just in my late 20s. Fresh out of mechanic college lol. The car ran so perfect. :)

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Those 90s Escorts were pretty bomb proof. In fact many 90's cars keep on ticking wayy pat their "expiration date" :)

[@AP9311]

Oh, absolutely yes! Totally. If they were still around. With no rust, I would still keep one and drive it lol!! Wished I still had my 97 escort 1.8 diesel ( no turbo!) Totally bomb proof like you said. Great car, loved the simplicity!

[@davidraezer5937]

Nice tool from OTC. Usually old and brittle seals come out pretty easy. I use a Snap-on cotter pin removal tool which is basically a large hook tool with a bend. The key is the hook is smooth so it doesn’t scratch the crank. Also you can make a bunch of seal drivers with PVC pipe in different lengths and diameters. Plastic is more gentle on the seals. Another trick and something to consider is inspect the crank for a wear groove made from the old seal. Consider using a repair sleeve or installing the seal at a different depth. Otherwise she will be a leaker.

[@JeffBazell]

I have learned so much from your superb teachings. Helps that you also have a great sense of humor! PS: All my ancestors are from Russia, mostly Ukraine but some from Odessa, etc.)

[@josephwash109]

Like a lot of other people have said, I usually just thread a self-drilling sheet metal screw into those seals and pull them out. Those fully rubber-encapsulated seals pull out very easily. It seems like a paint can opener would work better than that tool in this case. At least Ford did something right and made this engine non-interference since there are no timing marks, and a mistake is likely to happen without the special service tool. Ford: Finding Odd ways to make Repairs Difficult!

[@TheTallPilot]

That is probably the last time OTC will send you a tool to "make a video with." :) If you are going to do this very often I like this kit - PBT70960 and it is under $100. You did an awesome job as always; thank you for sharing. I am glad you are enjoying the new job; you earned it.

[@100SteveB]

From past experience I can say that the silver top zetec engine does allow piston and valve contact to occur - especially if it's running at 2000rpm or above. Or at least it does in some circumstances. Years ago I broke a belt on one of these engines whilst travelling at about 50mph, the noise said it all. Took the head off to find bent valves on all four cylinders. Plus the slightest of witness marks on the piston tops. I did not know the history of the car, so maybe the head had been skimmed in the past, but the cam gear was all stock. So if they are non-interference from the factory, it is only by the smallest of margins, and a head skim in the past may well be enough to make it an interference engine.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Euro Zetecs were interference while US spec were supposedly freewheeling 🙂

[@tomdewey9907]

Ivan, I would have opted for the old double dry wall screw trick to pull the seal. That way there's little to no chance of scratching the polished crankshaft surface. This method works great (assuming you have access room to drill the tiny pilot holes).

[@richardcranium5839]

cant beat that IR231 !!!! owned a lot of impacts in my lifetime thats the beast(best too)

[@ramdodgetruck]

Nice job Ivan. You make it look too simple.

[@DIYDaveOK]

I'm no big mechanic, but I have that same Harbor Freight pick tool set and have used it TONS more than I expected on the four-car family fleet I maintain!! Maybe $2 on sale at the local HF!!

[@TheSergeiFranco]

I always replace crank, cam, and oil pump seals when I do cam belts. $20-30 of seals are well worth it not to do the job second time.

[@jonathanmagill2379]

Great video, only one I could find with decent quality and lighting! Gonna be doing my crank seal on my mazda 626 tomorrow. Same motor lol

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

They put the Ford Zetec 2.0L in Mazda 626? Wasn't aware of that combo. It's a lovely silky smooth engine :)

[@ranradd]

Thanks, that was very helpful. Tech specification to remember: 80 ft lbs. = 2 ugadugas. :)

[@pltmann]

I have a 1995 Ford Contour and it uses an external spring for the timing belt tensioner . Did you use a later model tensioner with internal spring tension . When I did my timing belt mine didn't have one . I had to hunt one down from Ford . I think the idea is once tension is on the belt you tighten it in place and remove spring if you want . What I would like to know is if a later model tensioner (98) work on the 95-97 engines ? I did the timing belt at 77,000 miles and now has 177000 miles . Thinking of doing it again . I love this little car .Front Wheel bearings twice now , transmission with shift kit and cooler and a few other things . My Father in law bought it new and when the Transmission went out my mother in law gave it to me . I keep it going in honor of them . Keep the Mystique/Contour videos coming. Let me know if you have info on the tensioner . Thanks.

[@TheCowgirlNiamh]

I love a fix that cleans up messy leaks! Nice job Ivan :)

[@oggy4418]

For all of you out there attempting by yourself instead of hamering the new seal in use crankshaft pulley and old seal plus the bolt to press it in easily with high accuracy👍

[@stevejackson7899]

Great job! The manufacturer said you gotta take the engine out. I suspect it's a ploy to have you get the car to a dealer. You know, so they can get your business.

[@101numlock]

Always read the paperwork that comes with seals. Ran across several recently that say to install the seal dry!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Any reason? This one didn't even have a package! And I got it straight from the dealer haha

[@throttlebottle5906]

that mostly refers to the press-in portion, not so much the seal to rotating surfaces! the press in portion is usually soft rubber or coated metal and lubing that part can make them not adhere solid and possibly blow out. I still apply a tiny bit of sealant if they press into the middle of a seam/bolted together halves.

[@kennethnichols7263]

Got that same ratchet from Harbor Freight. I love it.

[@NickBEADG]

I loosen the water pump pulley bolts before taking the belt off so I don't have to mess with trying to hold it still

[@Tedybear315]

The oil leak is your rust proofing alright!.....Works wonders.

[@robe5000]

I have a tiny slide hammer with a small screw welded on the end, works great!

[@throttlebottle5906]

many used to supply screw ends standard. that or make one with a small 2 prong fork ( used with wood/drywall screw driven into the seal)

[@bastianfromkwhbsn8498]

On these Zetec engines you're supposed to lock the cams with a piece of flat metal on the other end of the cams (remove the valve cover) and loosen the cam sprokets so they move freely on the cam when tensioning the belt. Doing it the way you did it works most of the time but the timing is probably a tiny bit off.

[@opl500]

As long as it's not enough to bend the valves I don't think he cares.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

non-interference engine...a thing of beauty :)

[@EricChee]

KWHBSN it is not the Zetec engine you r talking about. More recent ones need lock the cams.

[@bastianfromkwhbsn8498]

Don't think so, did a timing belt change on a European 1993 Escort XR3i with the 1.8 Zetec that needed the cams locked. And I did it the same way Ivan did it (without locking the cams and loosening the pullies) - the engine ran but you could tell that the timing was a bit off. So I did the job again the proper way and everything was fine.

[@EricChee]

KWHBSN unless loosen cam pulley, no need to lock as long as pre mark properly with white maker. Did several old ford zetecs and all fine.

[@throttlebottle5906]

think I've commented in other videos about the pulleys actually wearing to where the "points/peaks" start riding in the belt valleys and vice versa, instead of the top to middle of V areas :)

[@Downzy2019]

Well I've got a crank shift seal leak and garage is quoting anywhere between 600 to 800 for the job so here I am...

[@louisnemick317]

Thanks for taking time to make these videos.

[@andrewhallett-patterson9778]

Ford Australia isn't adversed to covering engine components with excessive, badly engineered plastic components that seem to have a life expectation of several minutes to several years, and don't expect replacements to be available. Or you might be lucky enough for a radiant heat degregated plastic component to let go, go thru your engine and destroy it, than having Ford Australia tell you " its your driving technique that caused the failure" !!!. Go figure !! 👍👍 And best of luck as what is called in Australia a "Condition Monitoring Technician". As an engineer its a fascinating area of study and once parameters are set/known, its a plantsaver. And to give yourself a heads up, all bearing manufactors can supply frequency vs. rotational speed vs. load vs. life expectancy charts and computer software to assist in diagnostics.

[@jeremyanthony9300]

excellent video as always Ivan. keep up the good work man.

[@ericcorse]

Glad you are enjoying those wrenches Ivan. I would imagine that motor oil and timing belts don't mix, just like fires and brake klean. That is the first time I noticed you had your wood stove cooking. Your job sounds interesting to me and that is a good idea about monitoring various items in production areas. I'm not sure how that OTC tool could be inserted without banging it in or perhaps cutting a slot in the seal to insert it. It will be interesting to perhaps hear from someone that has used it.

[@michaelovitch]

Belts are noisy when loose or out of alignment because itself tronconical,or a loose bearing made it tronconical. You use the pico accelerometer stuff at your job ?

[@rexanderson5458]

I saw a tool set for replacing cam and crank seals. It has a double edge external gear puller type jaws and a slide hammer puller. It had about 10 adaptors to install seals. It would be better than that one! Trust me! I'll look. I'll let you know. It costs about $120.00.

[@leod3963]

Crankshaft seal removal 24:15 Will use this method and will put a thin rag over the crankshaft so I don't score the crankshaft with the pick.

[@amdemik]

Good content. Happy to find your channel.

[@eugenealymov2723]

Great video, thanks! Its tough work to fix a car while filming.

[@jfarinacci0329]

This is a really good video. Thank you.

[@Bekim8310]

Good job Ivan! Now fix that belt squeal.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Coming up!

[@tecnaman9097]

Hopefully OTC have an open mind about tool reviews but I think someone in the marketing department at OTC may just have crossed you off their xmas card list. When I first saw the tool I said to myself... this will interesting to see! Cheers Ivan

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hey I just tell it like it is haha no sugar coating

[@tecnaman9097]

👍👍

[@mikes4408]

The pic looks like the safest tool!

[@MrSnowplow2]

When you broke out the fluid film I had to do the sheep sound.

[@radioman140]

why didn't you replace the metal spacer ring (race) on the crankshaft? usually part of the job, and of course the hardest part unless you have the special tool.

[@cardude5323]

I trick to get the seals out if they are stubborn is drill pilot holes into them and insert a corse thread wood screw. Gives you something to pull.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Cool tip!

[@jamesfenton7338]

Someday you will figure out that tilting the engine up or down makes access easier.

[@llservice3376]

Funny how with an oil leak one teaspoon of oil seems to cover about 100 yards LOL

[@throttlebottle5906]

one teaspoon or one quart, always appears the same!

[@mihailpetrovici5044]

😂😂😂😂😂♥️

[@mattbrush2970]

Good video, but be watch out for the "all engines" in the title. Newer Ford/Mazda Duratec motors use keyless pulleys on cam and crank. Crank gear is then a friction fit with diamond washers between it and balancer. A simple front seal job on a chain based engine will get expensive if you don't line everything up first with special tools. Removing the crank bolt would free chain/cams to move independently from crank, reinstalling pulley means bent valves on startup. Many manufactures use the keyless pulleys to get more accurate timing. Never have the half tooth issues with alignment.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yeah well owners should use their heads too to prevent unfortunate mishaps!

[@eugenecod]

260kmiles on ford engine absolutely amazing

[@sfitz-rp4du]

With new seals on an older engine, can you use synthetic oil and not have leaks? I use a Lisle tool for my seal removal & off pipe not for install of new seal.

[@DavidS11]

I always use a a hook or that seal puller that has two different hooks at the end, depending on how much room I have.

[@jmcenterprises9591]

Great video Ivan, thanks

[@shawnyd8009]

Baking Soda for belt noise. Best way is in a detail ketchep bottle, ya turn it over and puff it onto the belt. Check it out !

[@williamcarson423]

Nice to see a motorcraft filter on there 😃

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I use OEM when possible for my personal vehicles :)

[@CactosS]

A me resulto muy interesante el tema, porque durante mi adolecencia comence a tener sueños premoritorios de manera frecuente, nada especial ni apocalitico, simples como de vida como comer algo, meter un gol o pasar al pizarron, al principio eran sueños muy cortos de lo que seria apeans 3 0 5 segundos despues se fueron haciendo mas largos de hasta como 30 segundos, llegado a este punto fue que me di cuenta que no eran ilusiones sino que si pasaba, despues de pensar un poco pense que quiza era por que tenia que cambiar algo en el futuro y asi practicar, por lo que me propuse cambiar el futuro pero al principio era imposible aunque me daba cuenta de que estaba pasando era como si me desconectara y simplemente le diera play al video no podia cambiar nada, segui intentando y finalmente puede empezar a cambiar las acciones pero de alguna forma el resulta se consevaba, aun creia q en algun momento lo podia lograr, pero fue cuando tuve el sueño premoritorio mas largo, en este me encontraba en un lugar q no habia estado y que no tenia por que estar y me disponia a comer algo q no me gusta en ese momento intentaba asaltar a una señora yo me metia y me encajaban la navaja, despues de eso tuve miedo por una de las cosas que me hacian saber q era una premonicion era que me daba cuenta que estaba recibiendo toda la informacion sensorial asi como lo que conocia en ese momento, sin embargo no pude entender por que estaba alli ni nada mas aunado al hecho de que mis experimientos habian fallado, llegue a la conclusion de que habia soñado mi muerte, esto me pego duro en mi psique me hizo perder motivacion en los estudios y muchos problemas, para mi era claro que no iba a llegar a viejo. De cualquier forma mi vida se complico y acabe convirtiendome en un inmigrante ilegal a USA y fue despues de primer intento de cruzar que no regreso la migra mexico que ocurrio esto en ciudad juarez, pero apesar de que muchisimas veces recorde como sentia el frio de cuchillo cortando mi costado, resulto aunque senti lo mismo el cuchillo solo me roso y no me corto pero claro a cualquiera le da panico q intenten apuñalar y sienta la fria cuchilla en su cuerpo, al final creo que no cambie el resultado pero sin duda eso marco mi vida

[@spelunkerd]

Interesting video, Ivan. Glad to see you're still able to post videos, despite the day job! At 11:52 I notice your Nano, and later your bigger air gun, have unusually bulky swivels. Looking closely, the air connection is on the tool and the swivel is on the hose. Do you do that so you don't need a separate swivel for each tool? I just screw the male part of the swivel right into the Nano, I have a $10 swivel dedicated to each tool. Less bulky and able to fit into tighter spaces.... Lisle make a smaller version of that shaft type seal puller, part # 58430 that seems to work pretty well. As you say, there are lots of options, even drilling a tiny hole and threading in a small screw that you can pry on will work. Good job!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yeah I just keep a swivel on the hose to cut down on the number of swivels :)

[@jeremiahtilley2025]

. I have a job for you ? You in Texas

[@janetarzan4294]

If all of the marks are made drawn onto the belt and the sprockets to make sure the belt goes back on the same way it came off, does it mean the engine does not have to be at top dead center? I'm trying to understand what the point of having to put it TDC is, if all of the marks on the belt or done the way you did them. It would go on the same regardless, correct?

[@davidhollfelder9940]

I carefully drill a hole in the metal part of the seal, and use a hook pick ...

[@Antimortem]

Good job

[@chadharmon5716]

Plug one hole and cause another lol got to love older cars

[@jjgag601]

I have watched several of your videos and I appreciate all you are doing. I have not seen in any video how you like to organize your leads, your adapters and your clips. Do you have any suggestions on how to organize your leads so you can have everything ready to go in one area.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I just have my most used stuff in the case with my Verus Scanner. You'll figure out a system that works for you as you use them :)

[@robinsonsmotorcycleandauto3929]

Heard you might still be playing with cars up in Staten Island. Glad to see these vids Im sure new job keeps you busy

[@scootscoot97warlock90]

So did you have to remove that plastic timing belt cover that goes down around the crankshaft? I'm about to replace mine and that's a pretty big hole in the cover so I was thinking I could replace it without moving that plastic timing belt cover,. Opinions?

[@zx8401ztv]

The hook did a great job :-D I like your methods, a hook and a tube to fit the outside edge of the new seal, and it's possible :-D. Perhaps that seal remover is for bigger shafts/seals.? Some people drill a tiny hole in the seal and wind a wood screw in, pull with plyers, Evil lol.

[@DylanRabier]

Who needs special tools 😃

[@rayrowe2664]

OTC USED TO MAKE ALL OF FORDS SPECIAL TOOLS

[@carlloeber]

I was thinking about something like this also

[@freddyflores6412]

They make a small slide hammer with a screw at the end just for pulling out seals. I forgot the name of it though.

[@petrocksgarage]

Yeah, I think that puller was just too fat. Not enough clearance. It is probably made for front seals that don't ride directly against the shaft, like on 90's era ford mustangs & explorers where the front seal rides on the harmonic balancer, not the crank shaft. Once you pull the balancer there is a 1/4" gap or so between the seal & crank shaft. Lisle's shaft seal puller (58430) might have worked here though. It has a thin prying end that might have been able to fit between the seal & shaft. It has worked well for me over the years for pulling seals like this.

[@richardjones3112]

Is the correct method to lube the oil seal or put it in dry?Varying advice on here saying that if it is lubed it will leak again.Anyone have the info?

[@socknetea]

25:50 it doesn't have to be alot but put some grease inside line the inner spring so it doesn't pop out when u install it. Small bit of peace of mind so you know the job wont have to get done twice.. ASK me how I know lol

[@emmabolsher5124]

Good job man😅

[@charlesmiller5078]

On your job, can you monitor remotely. Do you install monitors when the bearings are new to get a base line. I used to take care of business phones for a company in Houston who did the same thing. I thought it was a great way to monitor, allows them to change stuff out before it fails, Esp when the plant is in a turn around.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yup that's the name of the game! All the vibration data is streamed to a cloud, and monitored by multiple users/analysts :)

[@bl0ss0mshum4n]

Do you think there would be that much stuff to remove on a 1998 toyota Corolla?

[@seriousstuff8887]

I got one out with a small screw , i screwed it in about 3mm then pulled it out with a needle nose plyers . Be careful like this guy said about scratching the mating surface but it worked for me .._

[@jonathantolbert4176]

Great video

[@Hohmies86]

So we changed my water pump and I have a bad oil leak now. Seems to be coming from around the harmonic balancer. Dammit

[@bradjohnson6536]

How well did your repair hold up?