DIY HIGH POWERED FAN CONNECTOR AND SWITCH

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Check out the DIY high powered fan list master link below.
DIY High Powered fan parts list
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40mm ESC Basher Fan mounts (image missing from site)
shop.alza-racing.com/en/maker...
OFFSET 40mm ESC fan adapters - Arriving in his (Recalls565) store soon
www.ebay.com/sch/recall565/m....
Watch this Video for details - • Video
Fan Covers
shop.alza-racing.com/en/39-fa...
AliExpress Fan -
1 pack - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ANFqHR
5 pack - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AZ4ctB
Shock Mitigation PROJECT Playlist
• Shock Impact Mitigatio...
Temperature Thresholds
Motor
Ideal - 140° 60° C
Hot - 150 - 160° 65.5° - 71.1° C
Overheat - 165° 74°C
ESC
Ideal - 135° 57.2° C
Hot - 140 - 150° 60° - 65.5° C
Overheat - 155° 68.3°C
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OTHER VIDS
One 6s vs two 3s VIDEO - • LIPO BATTERY & CHARGER...
Solder on new connectors VIDEO - • Lipo - Soldering Batte...
Heavy Duty Rod ends VIDEO - • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
DIY Rod ends VIDEO - • DO IT YOURSELF - EXTRE...
Better Shock standoffs VIDEO - • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
DIY Shock boots VIDEO - • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
Shock socks VIDEO - • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
Everything Diffs VIDEO - • Arrma - EVERYTHING DIF...
Diff tips VIDEO - • ARRMA DIFF TIPS - Krat...
Steel Pins VIDEO - • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
Hot Racing Diff house VIDEO - • Hot Racing aluminum di...
RPM Vs T-bone VIDEO - • RPM Bumper vs T-Bone R...
Willie Bar Protects it VIDEO - • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
Soaking Bumpers VIDEO - • Arrma- Should you soak...
Soaking Wing mounts VIDEO - • Soaking parts in WD-40...
Vent/balance tires VIDEO - • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
Better Droop Screws VIDEO - • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
Servo Savor fix VIDEO - • ARRMA KRATON V4 V5 STE...
Info about BEC VIDEO - • PART 2 - ARRMA STEERIN...
Screw on mounts install VIDEO • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
Hex tools VIDEO - • Arrma RC - BETTER HEX ...
DIY VIDEO - • Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essent...
BATTERY CONNECTOR CONVERSION TOOLS (If needed)
EC5 Connectors - amzn.to/2LGMEak
Soldering Iron - amzn.to/2Tiu1h2
Solder station w/ Solder - amzn.to/2ZhKqWW
Shrink tubes - amzn.to/2WIQMwQ
#1 upgrade VIDEO - • Installing the M2C Cha...
NOT FOUND ON AMAZON
Alternative option for shock Standoffs from M2C (comes with Nuts) - m2cracing.net
2.25mm steel diff pins (You cut w/Dremel) - www.mcmaster.com/2900A239
Better Diff Gaskets V4 - [tekjo 1/8 scale diff gaskets on EBAY]
High End Dog bones - amzn.to/36gGIOJ
DIFF FLUIDS and LUBE
External Diff lube - amzn.to/2WGgYbo
Rear - 20k - amzn.to/36cYF0y
Center - (200k or 500k)
200k - amzn.to/2X6qCD2
500k - amzn.to/2WHyz2q
Front - 80K - amzn.to/3g4NKKI
DROOP SCREWS
Alt Droop Screws found at www.amainhobbies.com
Alt Droop Screws found at M2C - m2cracing.net
FIX YOUR STEERING - SERVO SAVOR MOD INFO
Servo Savor fix VIDEO - • ARRMA KRATON V4 V5 STE...
Snap Ring kit - amzn.to/2zPN0Zp
Quality Servo - amzn.to/2XaZDGA
Info about BEC VIDEO - • PART 2 - ARRMA STEERIN...
BEC - amzn.to/2AFnqXn
COOLING OPTIONS
NTF fans - Contact NTF Racing through Fb messenger
Fan/heat sink combo - amzn.to/2AEA8Wp
Stock ESC fan - amzn.to/2WWjPND
Heat Gun - amzn.to/36ec2gR
MISC TOOLS
Exacto knife - amzn.to/2TtHIK8
Dremel - amzn.to/2TkmDSh
Protek hex drivers (Drill Compatible) - www.ebay.com/p/1122416635
CLEANING/LUBING PRODUCTS
WD-40 - amzn.to/2LFjiJ9
Degreaser - amzn.to/36clykG
Cleaning out diff fluid - amzn.to/2Zlilhk
loctite Red - amzn.to/2TnBBa2
loctite Blue - amzn.to/2zTKt0c
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[@gaffle-411]

At 18:12, my 3S connector has FOUR wires, which ones do I need to delete?

[@EastTactics]

Pull the center two out See 5:08

[@gaffle-411]

@@EastTactics okay, I saw that before but I’m in doubt because ultimately, the will have to go to the balancer of a 3S battery. Are the outer edges of a balancer cable positive and negative even though the colors aren’t necessarily red and black? In other words, what if I were to pick up the battery in my hand and remove the two center leads off it’s Balance or Cables. Would ice still get the proper positive and negative power from the two outer edge wires?

[@EastTactics]

You definitely don’t want to mess with the wires on the battery itself. Just the terminals on the connector. To answer your question regarding batteries, the answer is yes, the outside ones will always be a positive and a negative but they should also be marked accordingly by the color. The batteries should all be exactly the same. And by default they really should be a red and black on the outside automatically on every battery you ever see. If that’s not the case then that’s a little bit odd. but either way it’s just an outer covering If after hooking up your fan (or splitter) with the balance terminal connector, and you find it’s not working, then try switching the leads on the fan side. But you’ll never have to mess with the battery balance terminals. It will always be the two outer ones

[@gaffle-411]

@@EastTactics You are correct sir. Your instructions work well for me and I have built my own dual-fan for my motor. I used the Integy 5th scale heat sink and it came with two fans but everything looks really nice including the mesh material dressing up the wires. I have the high-quality 18,000 RPM fans on order.

[@gees5563]

Can’t wait to see how you mount the fans onto the heat sink looking forward to that video 👍👊

[@jcocanour]

Very "cool" video!🥶 Being able to see the process from start to finish is super helpful. Keep up the good work.

[@gees5563]

Awesome video my RC brother thank you so much for all the information you give us much appreciated 💯👍👊✌️

[@phillybrc]

Killer video Randy!! Saved for sure!

[@EastTactics]

Thanks!!

[@g.bjumpsbashing3062]

Looks awesome bro...great tips

[@mwhite202020]

Thanks for the info!! I ordered my fans already but they probably wont be in until mid march. Can’t wait to start building them.

[@EastTactics]

Did you order the Exact ones I sent the link for? If so I think I’ll probably arrive sooner than you think. Typically the stuff I ordered from AliExpress as a date it’s sort of out there but they surprise me more often than not.

[@mwhite202020]

@@EastTactics Yes, I ordered the same ones. I hope they come in quickly. I ordered several. This info is exactly what I needed for several cars. I’m done with putting weak fans on my rigs.

[@gaffle-411]

Damn it... ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO!

[@ernier1777]

What size is the braid you use please? Thanks.. great info btw 😎

[@EastTactics]

1/4 inch Check the description of the video for easy access to the complete list of every part. Called “High Power Fan DIY” list

[@arrmatuff_traxxasrocks_rc1097]

There's no link for the wire mesh that goes around the wires on the fan? You got a link for that? I think you said it was from Amazon but I don't wanna get the wrong size............ Thanks 👍

[@EastTactics]

In the description there is a link titled “ High powered fan DIY” Let me know if you can’t find it. It is a list of all the goodies you need. Near the bottom you’ll find that wiremesh.

[@aworkinprogress337]

NICE WORK BRUH, & VERY HELPFUL BUT DID YOU REMOVE 2 OF THE WIRES FROM THE 3S BALANCE CONNECTOR ? I COULDN'T TELL BECAUSE IT WAS MOVING TOO FAST !!

[@EastTactics]

Yes... the two center prongs are removed👍👍

[@aworkinprogress337]

@@EastTactics THANKS !!

[@gaffle-411]

My only issue is finding heatsinks for 5th scale motors (eg: Castle 2028 1100KV).

[@EastTactics]

I’ve always wondered if the Heatsink that I’m showing In this video could actually work for larger cans. For Example my motor is 42 mm approximately, yours is 56 mm. Would simply using longer screws that span the gap between the upper and lower sections make this heat sink still function on your motor? I should look into that.

[@BASSstarlet]

Could you please give us some info/link for the body posts?

[@EastTactics]

amzn.to/3b9RpW8

[@BASSstarlet]

@@EastTactics Thanks!

[@joseCalderon1976]

Nice tutorial but I just got way too many things going on to make my own fans. I'll just pay the $40 🤣👍

[@EastTactics]

I hear ya. lol

[@nikosyoutsos]

I can connect a fan with a receiver channel , e.g. on-off ?

[@EastTactics]

Yes…you can You should have unused “out” on your ESC as well …that will work to.

[@isaacmack1316]

Can i conect my fans wires to a deens connector vs the balance port or would that be to much lol

[@EastTactics]

I’m not 100% sure, but honestly I think it is the same thing. It’ll output 11.1 V as the 3s battery offers.

[@isaacmack1316]

@@EastTactics ok thanks and for the fast response!

[@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj]

Hey east tactics I know this is an older vid but I want to put a 6s balance port so I can run it of the battery In My truck do I just put the two wires on the very furthest opposite pins?

[@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj]

I just want to run of 3 cells in my 6s

[@EastTactics]

If you put it on the farthest, it would put 6s power to the fans. But it is possible to run 3S power from the 6s battery balance terminal by putting the pins the same spacing apart as you would a 3S battery. However, you’ll have to modify the plastic end of the Terminal so that one side is open, if that makes sense.

[@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj]

Yes thank you very much is a big help

[@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj]

East tactics one more question (possibly more later) the male side which is for the fan side all of the kits I see on like already have pins in them am I missing something here.

[@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj]

* I see online

[@blacksheeprc8113]

I've been trying to get a soldering iron but the link to the one you put in the description does not have it on off switch on the keyboard it has it on the on a box that is connected too so is this even the same one cuz I want the one that you had looks like it works good but it don't look like the same one when you click on a link you provided not saying it's not they just didn't look the same the one in the link has a big Orange box that sits there I didn't see that with yours I'll switch on the cord the one in the link it has an on-off switch on the base

[@EastTactics]

This is the one you want, there is a switch on the cord that you plug in. amzn.to/3nRemp8

[@blacksheeprc8113]

@@EastTactics thank you sir yeah that looks better the one that's in the video the link goes to a different soldering iron and I want to make sure I got the one you got cuz that one looks like it works great and for 20 bucks that's amazing thank you so much as always

[@EastTactics]

@@blacksheeprc8113 anytime brother. I take it your care package arrived? 👍

[@blacksheeprc8113]

@@EastTactics yea I just been working so much have not been able to do anything rc really sucks was going to put video up soon if your ok with it

[@EastTactics]

Absolutely! Would love it

[@maagneticc6470]

i built the fans with crimping the jst connectors but everytime i unplug them either positive or negative jst connector pops out and i have to redo it so is it just like plug it in and leave it for good? or am i doing something wrong

[@EastTactics]

What’s your method of connecting the red and black wire to the little metal thing is that snap into the black housing? Are you using a crimp tool? A lot of the JST connectors that I’ve hooked to my fans I’m actually come from a prebuilt JST. For example my stock fan broke so instead of throwing the fan in the trash I snipped the JST off and when I connected it to my new 40 mm fan I just soldered of the red and black wires together. The Jst portion was already created. If you have that option do that if you’re finding your custom jobs for actually reconstructing the jst housing is failing. I have recently run out of prebuilt connectors and so I did pick up a crimping tool and the actual components to make my own. So if that’s the way you’re doing it, I might have some tips for you there as well just let me know which way you are actually constructing it.

[@EastTactics]

OK I reread your post. It sounds to me like you are crimping them yourself, and they’re just easily coming apart. I actually might know what you’re doing wrong. I was thinking about making a video on how to properly use the crimping tool because honestly it is a little confusing. Answer me this, do you set the little metal thingy when you’re about to crimp in the valley of the jaws or at the peak of the jaws? Are you questioning the construction of your crimpers because I’m cramping it doesn’t fold the metal over the way you expect it to?

[@maagneticc6470]

@@EastTactics i dont use the crimping tool i use needle nose plier it crimps fine but it doesnt pull out the whole wire it rips it from below where its crimped the wire stays stuck and i always have to get it out

[@EastTactics]

So the crimp job you’re doing with the pliers is providing a weak point and when pulling the JST out in tears the wire from the Little metal thingy. I call it metal thingy lol have no clue what it’s actually called😜

[@EastTactics]

The only thing I can suggest, since I might be misinterpreting what’s happening, is to find an old JST connector in your parts graveyard and use it instead. If you instead need to build the JST connector yourself, I would suggest buying the recommended crimping tool. Sometimes, if the little metal piece is just pulling out of the little black housing you can take the tip of your tweezers and push the little black tab deeper down to prevent your wires from backing out. But it sounds to me like your wire is actually breaking below your pliers crimp?

[@mattpotts3623]

I tried fitting the v5 arms on my v4 and I don't think they will work. I seen you had v5 arms in a video. To fit them what is needed?

[@EastTactics]

Yeah, I do have a set of the v5 arms. I haven’t installed them yet. You do need to pick up a V5 rear shock tower as I mentioned in that video you watched. I picked up front and rear carbon fiber shock towers from BasherQueen off of eBay. found it annoying that I had to order the red anodized caps for the front end. I also had to order the pins for the shocks. Other than that it should be a direct fit. Where exactly did you find the incompatibility issue yourself?

[@mattpotts3623]

@@EastTactics well I was talking to some guys and they sold me that all I needed is the shock pins, not sure but I'm running the m2c droop screws and when I installed the rear arms the arm was hitting under the diff output cup. And they are sticking straight out lol.. Can't adjust droop but so much, and its not enough. Maybe its the m2c screws thats making it not work. Since the v5 arms have 2 holes for the shocks, supposedly the outer hole is for the v1-v4 setup. I'm kinda new too arrma and it seems like when they make new parts its always compatible with older models, but idk lol. Maybe you'll have better luck.

[@EastTactics]

I was asking my buddy about his EXB droop screws, and he said they just look like regular old screws. You might be right about the M2C droop screws being too bulky. Yeah I think the reason why you’re running into your issue is because somebody misinformed you that the outer hole is for the V1 through V4 set up. My understanding is that the V1 through V4 shock towers with a longer ears that stick out are simply not compatible “at all” with the V5/EXB arms. Another thing that is interesting is once you do have the correct shock tower on it brings the hole inward a good inch. That combined with the fact that the setting recommended for the V5 and the EXB regarding which hole to use in the rear a arm, is actually the inner one. So the combination of the top hole being moved inward about an inch as well as using the inside hole on the arm makes for quite a dramatic difference then the V4 set up. Lastly… Regarding your drive cups rubbing against the a arm, that is interesting. The EXB arms are definitely beefier and look like they sit a millimeter higher or so. In my opinion don’t be afraid to take your Dremel and open that area up a bit. If you look at the rpm a arms they are completely open in that section, so I wouldn’t be worried about taking a Dremel and shaving off some of that plastic to give room for your outdrive. I do see what you’re saying though it does look like that Outer hole correlates almost perfectly with the V for a arms. Giving the impression that you simply could keep your classical shock tower and simply run the EXB a arms to that hole. I mean… It was Rich Duper bash and RC dude 81 who both told me that the EXB Arms require the EXB rear shock tower. I almost want to approach Arrma customer service and ask them if indeed using that outer hole makes it compatible with the V4 shock tower. It seems like either way some of the plastic needs to be shaved off though to allow room for those drive cups. At least from what I’m looking at. I plan on doing a full installation video on this when I get around to it. However I’m sort of in no rush because I kind of wanna wait for my old stuff to break before I throw in a hole New set of arms. The RPMs are just tank too! Lol Let me know if you figure out anything interesting on this topic, perhaps see if you can’t find out directly from armor if that alcohol is actually designed for V4 shot tower. I’m certainly curious.

[@mattpotts3623]

@@EastTactics thanks for commenting back! What alot of big youtubers lack haha. Look forward to your install video!

[@EastTactics]

😎👍

[@cwcodywhite]

When you add the balance connector to the switch, it has 4 wires. Then when you start soldering, there's only 2. How do we know what wires to eliminate?

[@EastTactics]

Illuminate the two middle ones. Make sure the black and the red tie into the black and the red

[@cwcodywhite]

@@EastTactics Cool, thank you. That's what it looked like in the vid but wanted to confirm. I have everything ordered now. Just time to play the waiting game, lol. It's been around 110-120 degrees where I live so the parts can't come fast enough... Have no clue how long Ali express usually takes, but fans say probably a month unfortunately. Thanks again for all your help man, I'm excited to throw these things together.

[@EastTactics]

Awesome! If you do have any questions feel free to hit me up

[@cwcodywhite]

@@EastTactics for sure man. You're a life saver. I've got $100's wasted on crappy fans that barely do the job and don't last. Tired of that money pit..... Looking forward to this 👍

[@EastTactics]

More than likely you have, but just to be sure. Have you seen my videos regarding shock mitigation for your 40 mm fans.

[@saltylocal6917]

Damn YT, 6 ads for a 20 min vid. Ridiculous!

[@EastTactics]

Yeah KZbin auto sets that. However I do have the option to go in and reduce it. So I’ll take a look at this video and maybe reduce it by a few. Thanks for the feedback

[@EastTactics]

All right brother I went in and dropped it literally in half. Nothing more Annoying than to many advertisements. Thanks again

[@TheAmericanUhate]

I stopped in an Ohio hobby shop and bought a $20 something soldering iron, piece of junk melted the plastic handle off while I was getting the 2nd battery ready for a new connection.

[@EastTactics]

Same here… the one I bought at a hobby shop, was trash. The one I recommend now is so much better.

[@TheAmericanUhate]

@@EastTactics Working on a triple fan setup for my UDR motor. Was going to 12v with a separate 3s like you did, but with a low voltage cutoff in-line before or after the switch. Then I found the size fans I need in 24v. So now going to run my main 6s power to a LVC, then on/off switch, then the fans. I could have also ran 12v fans with a voltage step down, but I want to try the 24v fans first, seems less complicated lol

[@timskylark]

what about low voltage warning

[@EastTactics]

What about what voltage warning?

[@timskylark]

@@EastTactics for the lipo battery

[@EastTactics]

There is no voltage warning, or at least there’s no measures being taken that is outside of safe protocols here. The fans are rated for 12 V input power. And the 3S Lipo battery outputs 11.1. So there is no breach of warning here? So I’m not sure I follow ya.

[@pablolozadaiii1856]

I think Tim means by removing the two center wires and only using the corner/end wires, will you be draining only one cell instead of all 3 at the same time. If I remember the two corner wire will give you the full voltage of the battery and using say the two left wires will give you the voltage of one cell 4.2 fully charged.

[@EastTactics]

Using the red and black outer wires drains from all three cells evenly. As the Mandalorian would say… This is the way. I think I actually just realized what he was referencing regarding his question. He’s concerned that he won’t know when the 3S battery gets below the low-voltage threshold. Read my response to him below now but I realized this. Basically you do need to make sure that this does not happen. But in my experience every single time I get back after about a session to check the voltage on my 3S battery. It’s well above 3.6 V per cell. I myself only on one battery pack to run my vehicle. In the future when I on two, and have an extended session I will be making sure to check the power levels of the 3S battery to make sure it stays above par. My guess though is that one3S battery at 850 mA is enough to run through 2 full packs.