DIY Injection Molding - custom plastic end caps part 2

[@anthonyg4671]

just watched part one and thought would be waiting a week for part 2 and here it is half hour later, awesome thanks.

[@andyharsley]

Glad you enjoyed it! Not sure when or what the next proper project will be, but I have some "how to" videos in the pipeline.

[@lotfiboutebal233]

@@andyharsley hello Mr Harsley, I am intresting in your work that you are doing from your private workshop, and i woukd to contact you for a small production purpose for a product that i am working on for a quit a long time. I hope you will be interested and i kindly ask tou for your email or this my email : [e-mail] , just mention me in the comment to see it.

[@reforgedcriterion1471]

Very interesting

[@reforgedcriterion1471]

I have some very old dies.. 50+ years old that I want to put back into service.. Only I'm thinking about doing this at home. Whether I buy an injection machine or build my own or find someone to do it for me remains to be seen but they are medium sized dies, about 30-40+ lbs of aluminum. My main concerns would be durability, color availability and shrinkage. I don't know how much shrinkage was allowed for in the dies. I guess that is something that will take some testing to figure out. Hmm... what kind of plastic has Durability, would be good as a handle material say for pocket knife and pistol grip applications, and has just about any color you could want? What about mixing colors? Is there a way to run a small home shop system that could make camo "tiedye" colors?

[@andyharsley]

An existing mould-shop would be your best starting point. The smaller companies tend to be owner-managed and are generally more welcoming that the bigger businesses with tiers of managers to go through. Making tie-dye parts is doable, but you need two or more imiscible colourants that won't blend together. I've seen it done to produce a nice wood effect, but you'd need to speak to a masterbatch supplier for details - it's a bit specialised and not a common technique. POM ("Delrin") might be a suitable material. It's used for moulding gears so is pretty tough and dimensionally stable (little shrinkage). Glass-filled nylon is used on a lot of power-tool housings, but that can be quite expensive and needs careful drying before moulding.

[@leighjones7575]

Love you video's but please get a Collet chuck, your have less run-out and movement of endmills and hence brake less of them

[@andyharsley]

I've got one, but it's a bit of a pain swapping out the bits.

[@VitaliySunny]

Cool!