DIY Porsche Boxster Brake Fluid Change - Easy & Fun While Saving $

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Replacing Brake Pads & Rotors Video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYCohpeFd7qto9E

[@len333p]

Followed your instructions today John and the brake fluid change went really well, no issues at all. Thank you!

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Excellent

[@christame994]

Very useful video. Pedal is hard as a rock now!

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Nice 👍

[@mattka5354]

Thank you for posting. Your videos are very thorough. It would be great if you can post a video on changing your brake pads and/or rotors. Your videos demystify Porsches.

[@skorpsaiyan2361]

Need to learn how to paint the calipers red. Looks great! Thanks for the video. My brake was getting stuck so that means brake fluid flush time.

[@paulamegadya1451]

I have done this on a '76 Carrera with just gravity, as the Motive pressure system device wouldn't hold pressure.

[@kelmck]

Thanks Mr. Salt - great videos

[@halleffect1]

i need to do this on all my cars. and the coolant flush. at least our helis don't need service like this :)

[@UABEBMcourse]

Was at Porsche dealer today…the tech only flushed brakes via the outer nib. Never took a wheel off. Wonder why?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

To save time because they were likely over-booked. If any air bubbles are trapped in the back side of the caliper, they will still be there.

[@sportscarnut]

Very nice!

[@KenKroslowitz]

Good buts & bolts procedure. Where did you get the wheel guide pin from? Looks very handy.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Howdy Ken. It's located in the tool bag that comes with the Boxster. I mention that in the oil change video I did where I took the wheels off: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6LIfYp_eb6hbas

[@karlthorpe1289]

7:29 great videos. It appears there is air in the motiv hose. Isn’t that an issue? Introduce air into the system?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

@Karl Thorpe - The air in the hose doesn't cause any issues, it's really no different from the air dome in the top of the fluid reservoir. As long as there is sufficient fluid in the reservoir, no air can get into the rest of the brake system.

[@karlthorpe1289]

@@Rchelicopterfun thank you

[@antoniohiscox4289]

connecting rods in the suspension..mhmmm never heard of that one before

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Obviously different terminology in your area from mine. Even many of the shop manuals I have often reference the rear suspension trailing or leading toe adjusting arm as a trailing or leading connecting rod.

[@kingofthewestmidlands4049]

What quantity of brake fluid is required out of each caliper? Furthest caliper will have the most ML

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I just watch the fluid color in the hose. You can usual see when the new lighter colored stuff starts coming through the clear bleed hose. I generally use 1L of fluid when flushing the system. Yes, the RR takes the longest, followed by the LR, RF, and LF.

[@blackericdenice]

Why flush your brake system when you could use Royal Purple brake fluid conditioner?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Because I don't like wasting my money on snake oil.

[@blackericdenice]

@@Rchelicopterfun I was messing with you. I'm sorry.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Good one :-) I didn't even think RP had a brake fluid conditioner on the market (yet), but I know BG does so nothing would surprise me anymore.

[@blackericdenice]

@@Rchelicopterfun I made a video last night talking about bfc. I said if they did. People would run right out and buy it.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

So true. Just watched your video & enjoyed your common sense outlook. Subbed as well :-) Cheers mate.

[@jamesgiles844]

John, How do you remove the filter from the reservoir? Jim

[@Rchelicopterfun]

The little filter cup has vertical ridges all the way around it that friction hold it into the reservoir neck. I just use a small flat bladed screwdriver (make sure it's clean), and walk it around the ridge of the filter cup with one hand while pulling upward on the inside of cup with the other. Once there is about 1/4" inch of the cup protruding past the top of the neck, you should be able to get enough of a grip on the rim to pull it straight out. It kinda pops out when the friction is released. If you can't manage to get it part way out like that, and you think you might damage it, don't worry about pulling it out to suck out the fluid. It's not worth saving a little bit of time and brake fluid by having to flush more through the reservoir over that of damaging the filter or reservoir neck $$

[@yphanolim2703]

Quick question, do you need to apply e-brake when doing a brake flush? Thanks in advance.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Nope :-)

[@yphanolim2703]

John Salt thanks for your quick response

[@FLYBOY123456789]

Okay...explain...why does P require a brake flush...and no other car does?

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Not sure what vehicles you've be driving partner. Every single vehicle manufacturer out there that I know of recommends brake fluid changes every 2 to 3 years TOPS! Brake fluid is hygroscopic after all.

[@FLYBOY123456789]

@@Rchelicopterfun 2016 Chevy C7 - every 45000 miles.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

LOL - talk about a troll moving the goal post. You start out by asking why "no other car" needs brake fluid flushes; and then when I correct your ignorance, you come back with a single example that happens to have one of the longer recommended brake fluid flush intervals. Regardless, a 45,000 mile flush interval is not the same thing as never needing one and the C7 service manual (along with many GM manuals) ACTUALLY states "45,000 MILES OR THREE YEARS, WHICHEVER OCCURS FIRST!" Which is exactly what I said - "2 to 3 years TOPS!" 🖕

[@smiaaron]

Nice job with the brake bleed, but you should never use anti-sieze or any lubricant on the wheel studs. The manufacturer’s torque spec is for dry threads, if you torque it to that spec with lubed threads you will overtorque the lugs and possibly break them.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

I respectfully disagree. The 986 manual (pg 145) specifically states to use a coat of Optimoly TA (aluminum anti-seize/similar anti-seize) on the threads of the lugs with a lubricated torque spec of 95 ft/lbs (130 Nm). The manual however mentions to never put lube on the contact face of the split lug cone where it mates with the wheel surface. I worked at a dealership and we all followed this practice as well.

[@smiaaron]

Interesting, that’s usually a no-no with wheel studs. I didn’t know the FSM called for it. The 981 manual calls for 118 ft-lb dry.

[@fh8210]

@@Rchelicopterfun maybe that is why the newer models call for not lubed @118 ft/lbs.

[@zactheking321]

Have always use copper grease on wheel bolts with no problems. Also use it on many other components great anti-seize product.

[@bobby_digital9493]

Hi, I used a power bleeder with 15-20 pounds of pressure but the right rear pushed barely any fluid out. I had someone depress the brake while I untightened/tightened the nipple which worked better but I had the master cap off and now nothing comes out and brake pedal goes to the floor with the brake fluid level light on. Any advice would be really appreciated to remedy this. (06 Cayenne S)

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Sounds like you introduced air into master. If the low fluid level light is on, the brake fluid must be low and thus air was sucked into the master and lines. Without seeing it first hand & how much pedal resistance you are getting, that is just a guess.

[@bobby_digital9493]

Sorry I didn’t clarify, the pedal sinks to the floor with no pressure at all. The reservoir fluid never went low both with the bleeder or when the cap was off with the helper method. Wished that it had, that would mean I actually had some good flow/pressure and could fix the issue by restarting. Could it be the master cylinder since it just sinks at this point? (No matter how many times I depress now) Let me also clarify that I did a complete rotor/pad job and did not see any leaks at any corner as I know that’s usually something to look for too. Hope this is enough detail, thank you.

[@bobby_digital9493]

Another thing to add which does indicate possibly a slow leak is that when I originally opened the reservoir before starting any of this is that the level was low. Which it had been on max when last checked. (Over a year ago) Not sure if brake fluid escapes on its own over time or if that’s due to a leak.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

Hmm, so the master cylinder is not drawing any fluid whatsoever from the reservoir when you manually pull the brake pedal back and forth while the reservoir is right full. I assume you have a bleeder screw cracked open at the same time so fluid will move through the system. If so, I can't explain other than a good deal of air in the system or the piston seals in the master cylinder giving out; but for it to happen in both the front and rear circuits would be once in blue moon stuff. If the seal went in the one circuit, the pedal will drop a bit, but you would still feel resistance from the from the other circuit. Maybe there is an ABS valve stuck open or something? But again, all 4 would have to be open for their to be basically no pressure. I don't know enough about the 06 Cayenne's hydraulic system to help with much more than the obvious items to check. If there is lots of air in the system which is exactly what this is behaving like, maybe using the pressure bleeder again to force fluid through the master will help "prime it" (assuming it is dry and empty). Make sure you pull the brake pedal back out while trying that because when it's fully down, it blocks off the fluid inlet from the reservoir and you won't be able to push any fluid through it. Also make sure you have a bleed screw cracked slightly open on one of the calipers so the fluid will move (along with all the air pockets). I might even be inclined to start at the front to just see if I could start getting the fluid moving through the system and hope the pedal gets a little more solid feeling in the process. If so, I would be feeling a bit better knowing this is just likely a really bad air in system issue and it will just take time to get it all out.

[@Rchelicopterfun]

@@bobby_digital9493 As break pads wear, the pistons in the calipers have to move closer to the disc, and that displaced space is taken up by the brake fluid. So, it's normal for the level to drop as the pads wear. They would have had to wear however a fair amount in that one year time frame for the fluid level to go from full to add. Then again, they are big pistons on each side of the calipers so they will displace a good deal of space as they move outward. If the pads hardly wore at all however in that year with that much fluid loss, then you very well may have a slow leak somewhere.