DIY Shower Drain Connection/How To Replace/Fix Leaky Drain in 2nd Floor Shower

[@Mainbusfail]

10 years later, you are still helping people out. Thank you for doing all this one handed for all of us in leaky land.

[@Roguewerks]

You're an Angel !!! Your husband is a lucky guy...followed your instructions and now my shower drain is fixed...Thanks !!!

[@carrieohanian4150]

Thank you! Your video saved us over $400!!! Never thought we could fix plumbing like this. Your video gave us confidence and know how. Everything turned out great!

[@Don3164JC]

Great video.....you installed the rubber gasket correctly. It always goes underneath the sink/shower. I went to some manafacturers web sites and confrimed the rubber gasket location. The other comment on plumbers putty is correct. It could last many years or maybe not. Most manafacterers recomend cleaning the tub hole and drain with denatured alcohol and using a genorous bead of silicone, wiping the excess just as you did with the putty. Thanks for blessing many with your video!

[@jasongrady8590]

This video is one of the best, most down-to-earth I've seen in a long time. All the details makes the whole process a lot more understandable. I'm very impressed with the whole thing. I can imagine how awesome you and your husband felt knowing you fixed it yourselves, and for a small amount of money. Talk about a confidence booster! I appreciate your posting this video. This will help me out a bunch. Thanks!

[@joshuago5026]

11

[@ddhuber]

I love You Tube. I've done numerous sink drains and I've had no problems with plumbers putty. My shower just started to leak so I figured I'd watch a video before I tackle it. You did your gaskets right. However from my research it does look like the flared part of the inner sleeve gasket should be up. Thanks for the video.

[@gchild00]

wow that's it really!!!! I asked a plumber how much it would cost to get it fixed since my home warranty wouldn't cover it and no joke he said about 600 bucks!!!! So we've had a hole in our ceiling for a year! i'm running to lowes right now!!! Thanks!

[@dayslife]

Great detail video 5*, and you did an awesome job for a DIY ,even if you reverse the gasket ,no problem if it doesn't leak don't fix.Husband should be proud of you! As per manufacture installation instructions; Before the shower base is set in the floor, apply a bead of putty /silicone ( Do not use putty with plastic shower drains ) around the underside of drain body flange.Install the drain body through the hole in the top-side of the shower base. Push and hold drain body against the shower module floor. From the bottom side of the shower base, place the black rubber sealing washer, then friction washer, up over the threaded drain body. Be sure there are no obstructions, and that the sealing washer makes clean, even contact with the bottom of the shower module floor. Engage the outer locknut and tighten up against the two washers.Wipe away excess silicone that has squeezed out from the top-side of the shower base. Measure and cut the drain pipe stub-up such that when the shower base-and-drain assembly is in place, the top of the pipe is between ½" and ¾" below the top of the drain body. Position and lower the base-and-drain assembly over the drain pipe, so that the pipe comes up through the drain body. Once the base is lowered, adjust the pipe or base so that the pipe is centered within the drain body. Confirm the top of the pipe is between ½” and ¾” below the top of the drain body.From the top side of the shower base, push the compression gasket over the pipe with the tapered side up.Slide the gasket down over the pipe, into the drain body until the bottom of the gasket sets against the bottom of the drainbody. The top of the gasket should be flush with the top of the drain pipe, or be slightly lower. Place the compression nut over the pipe and using the internal wrench, thread the compression nut into the drain body over the gasket - take care not to cross-thread. Tighten the compression nut completely to form a tight seal between the gasket and the pipe. Carefully remove the wrench and keep it for any necessary re-tightening. Allow 24 hours for silicone to cure, then check for leaks. Turn water on in shower, and from below shower floor (if accessible), check the drain area for leaks concentrating on [1] the area between pipe and compression gasket; and [2] between shower base and sealing washer. If a leak occurs in area [1], use the internal wrench to tighten the compression nut. If a leak occurs in area [2], tighten outer lock nut. When the installation is complete, remove the adhesive cover from the strainer and install in to drain.

[@vbl20012k7]

Awesome video! Today I had a leaking problem as you had in your video. Thanks to it, I solved my problem completely easily: you saved me a lot of time (including going to Home Depot to purchase parts & installation). I'd appreciate about that. I do like your trick: putting a sock into the drain pipe to prevent dropping a metal part that is used to lock the strainer. Again thanks so much Kim.

[@sabrenabeale1187]

BEYOND HELPFUL!!! As a first time home buyer, this saved me!! Thanks so much.

[@dunlapwoodcrafts9046]

Thank you for sharing your project., you did NOT take too long. You provided information. I did read more reviews and learned about the adjustments that needed to be addressed. Again, thank you for the information and the confidence provided

[@CRStengel]

Much thanks! Same problem here, watched this video before I headed out to the hardware store...keep up the great work!!

[@mossisawesome]

Thanks! Glad it helped. I always am looking for helpful vids when I try something the first time. I was surprised there weren't any "good" ones showing how to do this in layman terms.

[@mossisawesome]

It's working great so far. No leaks, tight as a drum. Hooray!

[@johnlujan4168]

AWESOME JOB MISS...... SUPER IMPRESSED..... FIRST TIME??? LIKE A BOSS....

[@meestahwah]

Killdrama1 is correct. The gasket is upside down. You want the tapered side facing up towards your face when you install it. The locking ring has a corresponding taper to it and works like a compression fitting. Since it all happens from above, you can actually remove the ring and replace it the correct way even if the ceiling has already been patched.

[@eclipser2004]

I was not sure about this when I did it. Replacement drain came without directions. I only put mine in right because of vids like this one and reading comments. I think mine was not pushed down the drain far enough though. How far down should it be though? Flush with the top of the pipe maybe?

[@mikeyralph68]

Now I can patch up this hole in the ceiling that's been here for two years. LOL!! LOVE IT!

[@timnelson1068]

The part you left out is most important to me, how did you get the old drain out. I that think was connected using the same method wouldn't you have to unscrew the part you sprayed all that rubber stuff on? I've got a real tight space along the wall in the basement to get at the underside and it is going to be difficult to unscrew the old drain and it looks like you didn't even unscrew yours to get it out.

[@eclipser2004]

They cut the pipe below the drain to get the out drain out. I had to do the same. The old drain and the pipe came up and into the shower, then I had to glue in a new pipe. My old drain was glued into the top of the drain pipe. Had to cut it off and then the pipe was too far below the shower floor to use.

[@GG-ty4mi]

First off I appreciate the "guts" you show by tackling this job yourself. Good for you! I'm a plumbing contractor and I install my share of these so if you don't mind I'll share a couple concerns. There may come a day when you will regret merely hand tightening the shower drain to the shower base and not using a pliers, wrench, or a specialty wrench. I know it's very difficult in the tight confines of the repair area. (Thus the specialty wrench) I wouldn't be as concerned about this if you had used silicone as the sealant since that acts as an adhesive too. The amount of concern with the tightness would be directly proportional to how solid the bottom of the shower base is. The more flexible it is, and the more movement there is the greater the risk of a future leak. I also noticed the ABS (Not PVC) pipe coming through the floor was a little too short. (about 1/4" or 3/8" short? ). In fact I normally have the brass compression ring recessed down on the side of the pipe an 1/8" or so. Thus when you screwed (tightened) the compression ring into the shower drain the gasket was actually pushed inward so it actually appeared to be pushed over the top of the pipe rather than being pushed down and compressing which is what creates the seal. The gasket should disappear down underneath the brass compression ring. That said, you should still be able to see a little of the black underneath the brass ring. I normally put some silicone down where the doughnut shaped gasket goes just for an added seal but that's probably overkill on my part. Your shower connection may not currently leak but I would not have a high degree of confidence that the connection will last as long as it should.

[@darlenegeorge3062]

Love your response to this video - you definitely sound like you have some experience in installing shower drains. We got the information we were looking for from this comment, regarding the "length" of the pipe that comes up through the floor - Thank You!

[@eclipser2004]

I just tried this today using videos on youtube after buying a replacement drain and finding they have no instructions. The black abs drain pipe was 1 1/2 inch and not 2 inch so I had to make a cut about 1.5 inch above the trap and expand from 1.5 to 2 inches using an adapter. I was not sure how much below the shower floor the pipe should be. I cut it 1/2 inch below because I thought I remembered it. I did not have a tool to tighten the large nut under the floor. Tried to buy one but it was too small. I also was not sure how far down the drain pipe to put the rubber compression sleeve inside the drain either. I think I may push it down lower around the drain pipe tomorrow and retitghen the compression ring. Thanks for your help!!

[@ericstrohl52]

thank you great tutorial, just had to do this in our vacation house. worked like a charm!

[@mossisawesome]

Like what? It's been over a year and working wonderfully with no issues.

[@darlenegeorge3062]

Forgot to mention that you should NOT use a sharp object, such as the screwdriver you used in this video to push the black rubber calking gasket down, that is a good way to poke holes in it which could cause future leaks.

[@DTuckerMD]

So that's why I can't get that thing apart, it's brass! It's black after almost 20 years and a wife who uses chlorine and anything else that says safe for plumbing. Yea, don't spay that stuff on chrome, either! The builder didn't leave the tool you taped to the cabinet but it would have been destroyed before it budged. All the WD-40 in the world isn't going to loosen that sleeve. I don't have a plan to get that thing apart - dynamite it or find a new house. Geez, I thought it was plastic. Very helpful video - great job. My wet ceiling is in the kitchen below and follows the PVC pipe to the joist where there is stained drywall and peeling seam tape. Shower drain is best guess in my case. For the moment, I have it coated in RTV in an effort to verify that the drain is the culprit. Distance measurements didn't help but I suspect I'll be installing the same hardware you did. Thanks for the demo, I'm not a plumber either but it's always something.

[@ScottioWilson]

+dennis tucker I was able to unscrew the inner sleeve w/o the flat tool but had to cut the abs from below sawzall a 2 inch section of the outer sleeve. Once the 2" section was pried out I compressed the remaining outer sleeve with an adjustable wrench to release the old plumbers putty that had squished itself between the outer sleeve and the tightening ring. I suspect you can sawzall through the inner and outer sleeve @ the same time. Just be careful to sawzall (or hacksaw) the copper. Stop sawing before you hit the fiberglass. Replace w/new abs and follow this video.

[@eclipser2004]

Can you tap it counter clockwise with a hammer and cold chisel to get it moving? If it is a castellated brass nut then that should get it loose.

[@johnviera1915]

Nice job.. im installing one now..not going to use the plastic one...I'll go by the brass.thanks

[@mossisawesome]

Thanks Victor. Yes, that sounds odd, if you figure it out, I'd love to hear how you fixed it!

[@mossisawesome]

The dry wall part was easy to fix. Just cut it out a nice square size with a knife (lol, we used an old steak knife), then pop it in. We measure it so it was pretty snug and exact. Then we taped it and mudded (sp) it and did my tissue paper texture technique over the top. Easy breezy.

[@tunett123]

Great Job! I have no leaks but my wife and i are thinking about replacing the shower pan in the master bathroom which is also upstairs. After watching this video I am sure my drain is glued to the PVC like this one. In my case is it better to cut through the ceiling or cut the floor out to access the pipe?

[@RTFMn00b]

For future projects, a lock nut wrench is used for the giant nuts on drains. Just so you know what it looks like, google Wolverine PST149. I have a cheap one, and I'm guessing they all work about the same. Also, plumber's putty doesn't dry, at least for several years, it's not supposed to. You just remove the excess and it's good to go. I can tell you from experience silicone makes future drain removal a real pain. Good work on the project, especially with no prior experience.

[@mossisawesome]

Our floor seemed to be in fine shape underneath the shower pan. We were lucky, I guess. Would have had to call someone in if the floor had been compromised. Hope your situation is remedied soon!

[@ryanlundy372]

I have a leak from the 2nd floor shower drain area as well. Mine ruined the ceiling which has now been tore open to help dry it out after a flood. I have observed the water come from where the floor meets the drain and not the pipe itself. I am wondering if the floor around the drain has been comprimised and needs replaced. Was your floor in good shape still?

[@mossisawesome]

How did it go! I hope well.

[@Tekmatic]

did you guys tape and mud the subfloor joints?

[@stanbernal2789]

Congrats you did a great job.

[@ArmaAceChannel]

i love girls who actualy know hwo to do stuff

[@jayryan7473]

ArmaAceChannel Seen any lately? None in this video.

[@KLMPublications]

Just wanted to note on here that some of the suggestions by commenters (for instance where or where not to put the gaskets) is incorrect. They go under the shower base according to the manufacturer's instructions. So I believe this video is correct. I can't include that link here but if you go to the Souix Chief website or do a search for the model number and install instructions they'll come up with all the details.

[@MrConstantComments]

you might have just inspired me to replace our leaky drain myself.

[@killdrama1]

You put the rubber compression gasket on wrong. The tapered end goes up not down. You had it right up to the last minute. Looks like you also damaged it by shoving the screwdriver into it trying to get it around the pipe. You should have also put clear silicone on as well for good measure.

[@jayryan7473]

killdrama1 I wouldn't suggest silicone. If you are sold on that idea then use it sparingly so that you can remove it from the shower pan in the future should it ever need replaced.

[@mossisawesome]

Thanks for researching it for me! I figured that I'd just wait for it to leak again anyhoo if it WAS done backwards. Good to know that most likely won't happen. :)

[@mossisawesome]

Hooray! Thanks for watching!

[@nerddorkdiaries2351]

nice vid, good job. i watched this not because I need to change for a leak but because I need to lower my drain so there isnt this pool of water sitting around it, so weird. I'll figure it out tho

[@Milldoz222]

watched it today an AAA+ instructional an delightful thank you.

[@darlenegeorge3062]

First of all, in your video the black pipe is NOT PVC, it appears that it is ABS pipe. I am curious as to why the black garbage on the floor of the shower wasn't cleaned up first before installing the new drain. The instructions that come with the drain state that the black "rubber calking gasket" is supposed to be slid onto the pipe making sure that the "bevelled" end of gasket is facing up and is flush with pipe surface. You then tighten the calking nut into drain body using the wrench provided.

[@eclipser2004]

I wish mine had come with directions. Bought it loose in a bin at a hardware store. Only these videos and reading the comments helped me get it done.

[@mossisawesome]

Sweet! Hopefully it went as well as ours did.

[@SuperMechtronics]

>Awesome Video, excellent work like professional plumber

[@Treppiede]

LOL @ 6:08: - "Husband is upstairs! HIII!!!" - "humffg." PS= Helpful video. Thanks for sharing.

[@mossisawesome]

So it works great for over the past year, so perhaps it will be fine and dandy. Hooray!

[@fristdodge649]

Great video, love the save the tool tip.. NEVER in my life would have thought of that one.. you got a lot of guts girl :P :)

[@blindstein8335]

The neoprene gasket should say top iow this side up on the beveled end

[@mossisawesome]

Glad to hear!

[@tinafontaine7032]

Awesome video! Thank you!

[@LrbinMT]

Should have used silicone not plumbers putty according to manufacturer. Look at Oatey web site, products, residential drainage, drains-shower, brass drains for preformed shower bases Beveled end of pipe gasket should be up. Other than that awesome video

[@noone10911]

Awesome. Thanks so much for the vid.

[@t.e.h.1776]

Good job! Women rule and men drool!

[@mossisawesome]

Thanks Walter!

[@mossisawesome]

We didn't install the floor and didn't encounter any joints, so I guess the answer is no.

[@jimprime3103]

Fantastic video!!!!! I am now leak free

[@americanallthewayredneck3917]

just replaced mine ..eeezee..no leaks..

[@JamesMcKeeRottweilerKings]

You installed the neoprene gasket upside down. You should really read the instructions and or look how you took it apart. That is why you could not get it tight.....

[@mossisawesome]

Thanks!

[@SuperFishbreeder]

usb,on the floor in a bathroom big mistake

[@theartofplumbing]

Great video. I will add it as one of my favorite. If you like you can add it to one of my videos as a video response. Thank you for the video

[@mossisawesome]

Thanks so much! I'll tell him you said that. ;)

[@mossisawesome]

Thanks for the info. :)

[@Kilroy-was-here]

Just to be a nit pick. It's not called PVC. It's called ABS plastic. PVC is white, ABS is black. Its generally recommended to use a cleaner or cleaner/primer before cement, but I've read it may be not required in all areas for ABS but is required for PVC. Should check code laws .

[@jpgharley]

why not just put it in your tool box?

[@mossisawesome]

LOL! You assume that we actual HAVE a toolbox! More like a corner of the garage where everything is piled up.

[@mossisawesome]

Oh snap, really? Shoot...well, what should I do?

[@dvddivas.l.s99]

Thank You,Thank You, Thank You !!! Dummy me could not figure out how the drain I just bought is supposed to be installed. You have helped me start my reno.

[@zacheryfitzpatrick9480]

Using a screwdriver like you only put holes in the rubber gasket...that drain will leak over a short period of time, also the way you tried to tighten it was funny if nothing else...put a screw driven in the slot like it was meant for!!! to add extra "torque", just turn the screwdriver with a wrench....maybe let someone who know's what they are doing take care of it next time

[@gregs_garage]

clean up all the crap before moving on to the next step. what a disaster

[@mhwallstreet]

Talked too long... just get to the point.

[@jayryan7473]

Mark Hutch Yeah no kidding! This lady is better off watching videos not making them.

[@JorgeReyes-le5qm]

Marry me ,nice job

[@mossisawesome]

Thanks!