DIY Subwoofer The HAMMER designed by Home Theater Gurus

[@loganpayne6086]

Something we do for CNC work is to not go deeper than the bit is wide. That greatly reduces the risk of breaking bits.

[@BEERNBBQBYLARRY]

Build your own subwoofer? Dang. That’s real DIY right there!

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Haha!! I built 2! They absolutely shake the house.. If you ever make it down I'll give you a demo!! Lol

[@BEERNBBQBYLARRY]

@@BuildITWithBrian Right on!

[@b3owu1f]

@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY So.. did you ever make it down?

[@hometheatergurus]

Excellent video! You really gave the hammer a workout at the end.. 😁

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Haha I did!! Thanks for all your help!!

[@battleship.walking]

One of the best sound ever!

[@PATRICEBAUDER]

Bonjour de la France......... Très très beau travail, et belle vidéo........ et en plus vous avez le sourire... merci beaucoup

[@michaelcorlet2998]

Down to earth and realistic vidieo.well done.thanks.

[@b3owu1f]

So.. 3 years later.. saw the bit about putting tape down to avoid tear out. I just picked up the Festool track saw (KEB 60) with the 2nd motor/cutter on the front. I bet that will avoid needing green tape now. Haven't used it myself yet, but various demos seem to show where there is almost no tear out on plywood. Bit pricey.. but worth it if you build a lot of boxes or other things.

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Great Video Brian! Its interesting to me. I used to be a beta tester for Peavey Electronics for their audio mixer department, some of the first analog/digital hybrid ones. They let me keep the one I was testing for a sweetheart of a deal! One of the engineers was telling me a story of how once upon a time they used to build cabinets for existing speakers on the market using the Thiele/Small parameters of that speaker to have it operate as efficiently across the frequency band. When they couldn't get the sound exactly the way they wanted it, they decided to build their own speakers, then build the cabinet around that. So the other way around, design a speaker for a given cabinet (which a cabinet design denotes a given application, subwoofer, woofer, PA, vocal, guitar, bass, etc) rather than design a cabinet around a speaker. Obviously design involved on both elements just the approach is different with a more predictable output. You are seeing a huge dip in the frequency response at 42hz because that is the tuning/resonant frequency of the cabinet you built. That's why you see better (flatter) response curves with two subs due to them coupling together. Hats off to the design of the cabinet. All my Peavey cabinets are tuned either to 40hz and the 18" subs to 35hz. Yours is in a good sweet spot for 12-15" drivers. Word of caution from the pro audio world, again peavey engineer advice for live PA work, never use a direct radiated sub (the sub you built) with a folded horn sub. They don't play well together due to frequencies canceling out among other things. You can easily blow them up because of the perceived lack of loudness, so one would want to crank the volume up, only to have them fail from overheating or physically destroying the speaker due to overexertion of the speakers Xmax rating. Same thing applies with two subs. CENTRALIZE THEM next to each other. Dont put one on each side of the room. Each wall acts like an inverse polarity subwoofer robbing you of SPL. Back when I played in a band running the PA, I'd put two 1x15H on each side of the stage, but put the two 1x18 subs in the center front. Never had any issue with lack of bass! Cheers dude!

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Thanks for the comments and the advice. I will say however that the dip in the frequency response is due to room modes not because of the cabinet that I built is it has a flat response if I did a ground plane measurement. As far as positioning goes I have a DSP that I use to align the subs with polarity as well as delay and so I put them in positions in the room that would give me the most even response across all of the frequencies from 80 to 20 and a little below. I don't know as much as you obviously do but what I've done so far works really well. I built two identical subs so they are matched from that standpoint. Cheers!! By the way the cabinet is tuned to 20 hz not 40

[@Bassguitarist1985]

@@BuildITWithBrian good stuff! Trust me I don't claim to know everything about cabinet design and speaker efficiencies I only know what I was told by the engineer. At 1 point I was contemplating building my own bass guitar cabinet because I was bored and wanted something to do. I thought better of it and found other projects :) Great job!

[@BuildITWithBrian]

@@Bassguitarist1985 thanks man!!

[@jorgem50]

Very good video. I wanted to build my own box and instead came across a blown paridigm 12"sub with a fried amp. I already own a crown amp xli1500 and bought a cheap walmart gothic 12"sub. I installed the gothic in the paridigm box. The combo works perfectly.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Nice!

[@KGrasso89]

I don't know if he said or not but why didn't he make the front panel larger to cover the end grain of the side panels?

[@thecanadianace]

great video, i built mine last year right after the video came out. i love the sub, i did a walnut veneer on mine. one day i hope to build a 2nd one

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Nice!! I love both of mine!

[@knuckle47]

Brian, you’re makin’ Norm Abrams jealous !! 😊

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Haha!! "Just until the glue dries"

[@FirstLast-we8cb]

Got your vid from parts express reviews. Good work. I've been thinking about making this sub for some time.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

I made 2 of them they really rock!!

[@jackdale9249]

how about a servo sub? would be better?

[@JoshM7]

Stumbled across your video from the Parts Express Review. Looks like it turned out great! I'm a fan of stain, but really really like how your box turned out. The compression looks like it's at 28Hz (Guessing based on the hammers design the cone excursion peaks at around 28Hz) and is expected as you push this sub harder and harder. (Hopefully not a wrong guess haha) I recently found a subwoofer driver that might be a big upgrade from the Ultimax 12. It's the CSS SDX12. It has way more Xmax than the Ultimax 12, so that means way lower distortion and way less compression. (Can't say the port won't compress more/will have more port noise though) The CSS SDX12 is basically identical to the UM12 but seemingly better in every way. I think it should fit the baffle cutout but it might be a hair smaller than the UM12 for the baffle cutout. The CSS SDX12 also can handle 1,000w RMS so it'll get a couple of dB louder on top of being way cleaner in the 28Hz area. Might not even compress like the UM12 but can't say for sure unless I get one. I have two Ultimax 12s but use a custom box that I've been told looked like the hammer when I was modeling it. Didn't know what the hammer was until I looked it up after being told that. Mines 5.4 cubic feet tuned to 19Hz and I get in room extension to around 16Hz before it starts to roll off. I push them with around 100-200w and they give me more than I need for output. I'm tempted to try getting a pair of CSS SDX12's though to see how they sound, even though I really don't need them as I have no problems with the Ultimax 12s.

[@justinwingate8228]

Hi! I know this video is a couple years old… but what kind of plywood did you use for the subwoofer enclosure?

[@jackdale9249]

he never answered sad !

[@freshcleanair]

Great video Brian!🍻

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Thanks Jim!!

[@brnmaull]

I would love to see a video of mini dsp I want to get one but it looks hard to work. Also what is the final dimensions of the box. Keep up the great work

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Thanks!! I'll see what I can do! The box is 17W x 20.25H x 27.5D

[@Hitokiri_Ace]

Nice video. :) Well put together, and very good information and pacing throughout. Make sure and let us know how the second 'hammer' treats you! I'd be interested in seeing more REW comparisons of 1 vs 2 subs when setup. :) Have a nice day, and thanks for sharing.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Thanks John. It was very interesting getting the 2 subs aligned and more importantly positioned properly in the room. Room modes are a PITA... lol I finally got something that I was happy with and SWMBO was acceptable to. I'll admit I did have to plead my case... lol "I put SOOO much time into building these... you gotta let me leave it THERE.." I want to do a follow up on my REW process of balancing everything out so stay tuned for that.

[@Stan_the_Belgian]

I'm also a bit surprised on the extension, a sealed um18-22 goes with DSP quite flat to 20HZ, where is your port tune at, 25Hz?

[@JohnG-lx5jb]

Hi there, I’m considering building this. If the bash amplifier has a HP filter set about 18hz I believe wouldn’t that be enough to start with to prevent damage? I intend on getting the minidsp later down the track for fine tuning

[@Stan_the_Belgian]

good to see the errors, saves us making the same errors! Almost a pity when you painted the plywood, looked great in itself. MDF would be the better choice if you really want to paint it IMO

[@BuildITWithBrian]

I wanted it to blend into the rest of my system I did build a second. One out of MDF 👍

[@sun6v546]

What are the things I should do , IF I want to use this in my Sedan ....??? Thank you for the good info , Mate.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

I would use a automotive amp. Other than that should be good.

[@serithin4703]

How does this compare to the SVS PB2000? It cost about the same in materials.

[@PoGoX7]

RIP EVH !!! Also, great video !!!

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Yes Eddie was the MAN!! I wore it in tribute! Thanks for watching!! 👍

[@mattiascarlsson9479]

Nice 🔥

[@edwarner504]

Awesome job on the build!! 💪🏻

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Thanks man!! Second is being built this weekend!! 😳

[@wishtone885]

Best box for dayton spa500 plate and dayton hf12 inch subwoofer speaker?

[@jackdale9249]

what do you think of open baffle subs ?

[@anneray9440]

Hey Brian , great video very explanatory . What is the tuning on this box ?? I want to build identical one..

[@BuildITWithBrian]

16hz

[@jaybugs432]

At the last coat of primer use Velvaseal. If you've got any spots of bondo then spots of wood theres 2 different surfaces and it'll irritate the color trying to be uniform. Velvaseal will stop this from being an issue. Just a suggestion.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Thanks for the tip!

[@caseykongpanickul3426]

Hey thanks for the video! Is a DSP needed to protector the driver?

[@BuildITWithBrian]

I would advise some type of limiter to input signal so the driver is not trying to produce sound below it's designed range.

[@Rangolian]

Great video! I built the sub and it's amazing. Did you use a HPF in the MiniDSP? I set my to 17 Hz BW I think... It is a steep curve and starts to drop at 19 Hz. It really cleaned up the low end at high volumes. I need to learn REW for EQ'ing, but it sounds amazing as is. People are always impressed when they come for movie night. Can't imagine two of these!

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Yep I did! I set mine at the same. I built 2 and it shakes the couch for sure! 👍

[@crazydwarfer]

Great job. If you would compare it to the SVS subwoofers, what model would it be?

[@BuildITWithBrian]

PB2000 minimum

[@toolanddie9789]

Did you make the window brace border 2" wide? Trying to determine what size holes to make.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

It was somewhere between an inch and a half and 2 in

[@parkersgarage4216]

ok i have a question for you. how is the impact of that sub meaning how much can you feel it? im looking for something that i can feel shaking me and my house heavily. another would be are you afraid to run it full out because it might start wrecking stuff or no lol. im asking because i was going to build one of these but decided to go rsl simply because of time. plus the rsl got nothing but rave reviews from all these so called reviewers. here in lies the problem with their reviews. when i got it and hooked it up i was very unimpressed with impact. so i plan to send it back now and just build my own. i can turn all bass up to max on reciever etc. and the impact is lacking imo. i thought that it was gonna shake the house and me like crazy. well thats not the case. i hate the graphs honestly. they tell you some info but no where near the whole picture. how does it sound as well? thanks in advance

[@Thefarmboy19]

is it down to 18.5 hertz? this is amazing am gonna build 2 of this

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Yeah they got hard all the way down... obviously YMMV depending on your room modes.

[@Jigging-steve]

I’m new to speaker building so I was wondering if you wire the sub normally or reverse polarity ?

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Normal but the coils are in series.

[@umitatestr]

What is the port brace width you are using? It looks like 1.25 inches in the Home Theater Guru video, right?

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Yes sir.. the exact same plans as Steve.

[@umitatestr]

@@BuildITWithBrian thanks Brian.

[@martpe2y]

Really appreciate this video! Quick question - the screws that you used to secure the driver....did they come with the sub or something you purchased? If so, what were they?

[@BuildITWithBrian]

They did not. They were just button head screws nothing special 1" I believe.

[@toolanddie9789]

How would this compare to a klipsch spl-150 15" subwoofer?

[@BuildITWithBrian]

I don't have any experience with that sub but I've heard Klipsch subs are pretty lacking in performance. I can tell you 2 of these in my living room..The couch shakes like I have bass shakers on it .lol

[@aca15246]

How does it handle music? I know it’s good for home theater.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

It sounds good. But of course ported boxes don't have the same tight response as sealed boxes.

[@jamesgregware5500]

Hi Brian - where abouts are you located? (Any chance you're close to Orlando, Fl?) I'd love to work with you on building not just a few subs but conceivably some towers as well. I built a dual (car) sub with some shallow mount Dayton Audio subs I bought and was both very surprised and very impressed at how they sounded. Now I'd like to go to the next step in both quality and project...

[@BuildITWithBrian]

No I'm not close to Orlando. Sorry.

[@carliproject]

saya ingin membuat seperti itu, tapi saya tidak tahu ukuran nya

[@bwirechrispus3092]

What are the box measurements

[@BuildITWithBrian]

17x26.5x15 external if I remember correctly. I might be off by just a little bit on the but I know that's really close.

[@bwirechrispus3092]

@@BuildITWithBrian thank you big boss

[@Marz-px6vx]

Before you paint just use wood glue and do a nice thin coat on the box let it dry then use your primer.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Not a bad idea! Thanks for the tip!

[@gusedwards20]

Are flat packs for the Hammer still available ? @builditwithbrian

[@dennisrottmann9601]

Is it really worth the $600, when you can buy the monolith 12 for $800?

[@BuildITWithBrian]

I'd put that sub up against the monolith any day. The monolith does not dig as deep as this sub guaranteed. I'd be willing to bet this one hits harder too. It's under $600 including tax and shipping.

[@dennisrottmann9601]

@@BuildITWithBrian Maybe I’ll make one, when they come back in stock. Although wood prices have skyrocketed now too.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

You won't be sorry that's for sure

[@toniserenvert7919]

Breaking bits can also be from bad quality.

[@josephsaucedo8691]

The second top prime you needed is guide coat primer easy to sand to check for high and low sports the wood should be 3/4 to 1 inch thick at least the inside of the box should be epoxy paint or rubber sound detening spray the amp should be in it's own compartment and have a cooling fan or well vented some how to prolong the life or a rack amp will last longer and be easier just some improvement needed to be closer to a high end if that's what you're trying to do🤔 🎵🎶👍👌✌️💯🥂Ps the amp plate is the same amp as the first gen svs amps but has a different cross over you can mod the amp cross over to be closer to the svs fun fact it's used in 10 other brands named subs as well

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Thanks for the tips! 👍

[@joenino3]

If you EVER had a bad factory edge, find that square and throw it away lol

[@joenino3]

Sheet goods (any engineered/manufactured/man-made lumber products) have much tighter tolerances from the factory than sawn lumber.

[@cannarris]

Is that a Marty design?

[@BuildITWithBrian]

No it's Steve from home theater gurus design.

[@cannarris]

@@BuildITWithBrian good one!!

[@arnicus208]

Breaking bits is a result of one of two issues. 1: You’re pushing too hard. 2: Bit/blade is dull AND you’re pushing to hard.

[@cannarris]

You should have shellacked the plywood ends.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

Why?

[@cannarris]

So they stop absorbing

[@BuildITWithBrian]

I put banding on them.

[@bman1181]

Ahh the good ole days when you could get MDF for a reasonable price. Shit is $58 a sheet over here now. What a scam.....for slabbed sawdust.

[@BuildITWithBrian]

No doubt!!

[@MrKrampyHands]

I just upgraded my Subs partly to hook my mom up with a system she's getting all my Klipsch stuff 2 towers a center channel and 2 x r121sw subs I had i ended up with a whole Monolith THX set up with Monolith THX M10's x2 this thing absolutely rocks can not wait to be able to put it in a bigger room my towers are Monoliths Encore line and so is the center channel that are essentially Arendal 1961's with only 1 midrange driver instead of 2 anyway Dan Roamer from Arendal and Hobie Sechrest killed ot when desighning the Encore series i was excited when I found out Arendal helped desighn these wouldn't be at all surprised if they share the exact same drivers they're the exact same size and look identical despite what's on there web sites had to bust out a tape and check em and SVS apparently helped desighn there subwoofers anyway people shouldn't sleep on Monolith that stuff is unbeatable for the money

[@tiloalo]

Sub alone is 330€ in Germany... everything is overpriced, in the end ready built ends up being more attractive

[@charlesmorrow6198]

bondo

[@fotisdog3612]

awful construction !!!!!!!!

[@BuildITWithBrian]

What would you do different?

[@thomasschafer7268]

Sorry. What Parameter has the subwoofer. Look this long Reflextunnel!! Shure??

[@jmw611]

To seal the sides of your wood, ESPECIALLY MDF use 50/50 wood glue and water. 2 coats. Sands like a dream.

[@jonathanduncan3749]

I've tried the glue method. It coats very well but is a PITA to sand, cloggs up the sand paper very quickly. Any tips on how to make that process easier?

[@jmw611]

@Jonathan Duncan I didn't have the issue you described...maybe I got lucky. I error on the watery side so maybe that helped.

[@jonathanduncan3749]

@jmw611 yep I used tight bond and when it dries it feels and looks like tree sap, and it would make little clumps on the sandpaper making it clogg. Tough to work with