DIY Subwoofer DEVASTATION!! GSG Devastator DIY BUILD VIDEO. HOME THEATER GURUS.

[@jasonevans6609]

I don't understand why you drilled a hole for a wire instead of using the SpeakOn connector. Did you cover up and seal the SpeakOn connector port? So now you have to splice the wire to a longer one to connect to an amp? Also, what amp will you be using and what do you recommend considering the 10,000 watts peak it can handle?

[@hometheatergurus]

Yes I covered the speakon hole in the video and explained why I was doing it this way. I show the speakon adapter at the 13:20 mark. It's a pro type connection for road bands that offeres quick setup. Something I don't need. I also don't want to add more connection points. If I want a standard connection I'd use a terminal cup. I like wood DIy terminal cups not plastic. I've been building subs for over 2 decades and speakons have just started to be something DIYers use. It's all preference. There is no right or wrong.

[@jasonevans6609]

@@hometheatergurus So are you just splicing a speaker cable into the cable coming out of the sub enclosure? What amp will you be using? Will you be showing measurements and EQ? Thanks.

[@hometheatergurus]

Yes I wire nut to the run so it's an extremely good connection. Remember these are hidden behind a wall. I'm using a Speaker Power SP 2-8000 to push them. I'll eventually have a setup video on them but if you go to our Facebook page I posted the response across all 4 seats a few weeks back. A response showing one seat doesn't show alignment so I like to show the seat to seat consistency as we did in ep 7.

[@jasonevans6609]

@@hometheatergurus Thanks!

[@jasonlockyer879]

@@jasonevans6609 The Speakon receptacle itself seals the hole & would require no further sealing. The GSG widget video is found here... kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4PGlpuCqqqcf7M

[@Hitokiri_Ace]

Very nice. Lots of good advice throughout the build process as well! Can't wait to see/hear your impressions of them, and maybe some measurements. Thanks for sharing, and good luck to ya on your next projects!

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks John!

[@ofsoundmind2925]

These are indeed a Funtastic build. I know I had a good time building my pair. If anyone is leery about the build process it is not difficult at all I was able to build with no issues and I have very little experience in construction. Thanks for the pillow information and on adding the duct board to the front. Also, yes indeed, that magnet wants to flip when you are installing the driver. Be careful or it will bite you.

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks Troy and yeah that driver needs a warning lable..:)

[@AncientEgyptArchitecture]

I do not know of any carriers that will ship / deliver 400 pound-plus packages to your door, how did you accomplish this?

[@hometheatergurus]

That's what freight trucks do all day long. See the description for GSG info.

[@AncientEgyptArchitecture]

@@hometheatergurusSorry, I should have added, I don't know of any carriers that can deliver this package to me here in Hawaii...

[@matthewkowalsky4874]

Nice video. Glad to see a video that really shows dry fitting, and brad nailing instead of clamping. Cool trick with the trowel instead of a glue brush.

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks and yeah I love using brads for projects like this.

[@Krbasshead]

I’m going the diy route with these and am currently building 2 Alpha III Devastators to go with my 1099 LCRs, HT-8 surrounds, Volt-8 Atmos and 16 12” JBLs for my hoverboss. So many things to do still.

[@doobiekutzmuzik]

How can we get in touch brother?

[@SuperMetalLicious]

Awesome video. I been binge your videos the last two night lol thx for teaching me so much

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks Riifer!

[@brodelicious]

Would you recommend cutting those tags off the pillows? I could see them flapping around inside with all the air being displaced.

[@hometheatergurus]

they actually go into the cab and sit on a panel so the bottoms are against that panel so the tags can't move. I think I pulled them off the first sub and if I had payed attention I would have on this one too. But as they are pressed against the panel, it wouldn't make a difference.

[@brodelicious]

@@hometheatergurus thanks for the reply. I had a hard time picturing what was going on internally once the second to last panel was put on. These will be on my priority list to do when I move into my new space. I’m currently running 4 15” drivers in two sealed cabinets in a dual opposed config. They are beyond great for music. But I need that extra oomph in the infrasonic region.

[@gibluap]

Where does the Plate Amp go? Or how are you powering it?

[@ajstruhar2048]

My guess would be a pro audio rack amp. I'm using a sinbosen fp10000q clone amp

[@GTRGTX999]

Hi there! Will you do a review on the sound of the devastator?

[@hometheatergurus]

Yeah I will after I have more time with them. I can say the output is ridiculous.

[@GTRGTX999]

@@hometheatergurus hey! Thank you for the reply appreciate it :)

[@ngdave11]

As mentioned below... Can't wait to see/hear your impressions of them, and maybe some measurements. Thanks for sharing!!

[@ryankramer]

41:00 you got off easy! I made the mistake of ordering 4 21" kraken sub drivers... and they weigh twice as much. Your driver has better performance at nearly half the weight, so that money definitely bought you something! ^_^

[@hometheatergurus]

Damn the kraken weighs 100lbs?

[@obi1cannoli777]

Wish I had your skill. I bet it sounds awesome!!!

[@hometheatergurus]

The kits make it easy, You can do it!!! :)

[@coreymarotta]

Would definitely like to see/looking forward to the EQ review in addition to what specific amp you’re running for both 🍻

[@hometheatergurus]

I'm using the beastly Speaker Power SP8000 rack amp.

[@coreymarotta]

@@hometheatergurus thank’yew! Looking forward to seeing these monsters EQ’d. FYI been following your methodologies closely and massively appreciate what you bring to the community 🤘🏻

[@deadmusik9969]

was thinking about purchasing 4 of these to start a small club speaker setup

[@hometheatergurus]

4 of these, you would be ready for a very "large" club.

[@deadmusik9969]

@@hometheatergurus then upgrade, Have had these on my list for awhile to start something.

[@jonrossow3948]

Thanks for the great video and walk through build👍

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks Jon!

[@samo8204]

I'm not sure if I missed it but what amp are you using (is there a part 2?) and how much is the savings? Is there a sealed version?

[@mohammedisaa9952]

Ha ha ha.... "a sealed version".... 😳..... Them 21" drivers would blow them apart.... (x max damadge of 40mm at 10,000 watts)...... sealed version 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂

[@aducksecho]

Gsg released the Evolution series sealed. Debating on sealed for lower extension.

[@Luke-qs2cg]

Not sure if pillows are giving the desired effect here, but, nonetheless, I'm sure it's still a hell of a build

[@hometheatergurus]

That was per GSG build manual. They're used it to fix a cabinet resonance that was measured. It fixed the issue.

[@jk330ci]

Would it not be a good idea to clamp before you nail? Surely some clamping force to get a good glue bond and then let the nails hold it in place.

[@hometheatergurus]

Sure you can do that. The brads do pull in the panel as you nail it but there's nothing wrong with doing both.

[@MrMr123]

Should Clamp 🗜️ then nail? What do you use for wood filler How do you finished the routered edges?

[@jollyjoker6340]

Does 97 dB/W and 10kW mean 137 dB or am I missing something about how decibels work?

[@bowlnut17]

What made you go with birch over MDF?

[@clintstuckey]

Lighter and more rigid, it’s why JTR uses it in their subs. You can have the same performance without as much thickness and weight as MDF.

[@RobertJeffersonBased]

@@clintstuckey MDF absorbs moisture a lot, falls apart, and also sucks a lot

[@robbarmstrong1342]

It comes as a kit and that's what the kit maker uses... If it were in MDF it would be considerably heavier

[@hometheatergurus]

This is what GSG cut the kit in. Some Kits are only available in birch as is the case for the Devs. Birch is very popular especially in the pro world as it's so light but a very dense plywood so it's great option.

[@jasonlockyer879]

The HQ New Zealand HDF used in our kits far from sucks 😊. BB is the popular choice with both our 'Live Stage' & 'Outdoor enthusiast' clients. There is a weight difference, BB will take that extra beating from loading & unloading between gigs & BB will weather a rainstorm better but 🤷‍♂ last I checked most 'Home Theatres' are located safe from the elements indoors & coming in around 300lbs finished & loaded they don't get moved often (if ever). There's zero audible difference between BB & MDF & given the current market price for BB... If it's not necessary for the above reasons then its not needed at all!

[@juanmauricioperez2036]

you need a clamps to press when you apply glue in every part you assembly

[@chevron916]

I really enjoyed this one. Thanks for the vid. I didn’t understand why you plugged the ports with pillows. Can you explain? Sorry if you mentioned it. I did t hear you say why.

[@TyGamer125]

He didn't plug the ports, it's the internal cavity of the subwoofer. As he said it's to control resonances in the cabinet. Most subwoofers will have this, just usually not to the same extent.

[@hometheatergurus]

Yep I mention it in the video and show the GSG manual where they recommend it to kil a cabinet resonance.

[@chevron916]

@@TyGamer125 thanks

[@chevron916]

@@hometheatergurus thanks

[@hometheatergurus]

You're welcome!

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

great video...that driver is massive......i just buoght 2 mach 5 audio 18 inch subs ,,,,going from one 15 inch ...

[@hometheatergurus]

Yeah it is massive. Mach 5 has made great subs for years. You'll be very happy.

[@carlosoliveira-rc2xt]

I have 4 of the Mach 5 21" drivers as Home Theater subs and a 24" Stereo Integrity for 2 channel.

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

@@carlosoliveira-rc2xt what do you think of them ..

[@carlosoliveira-rc2xt]

@@johnsmith-qz4bv I use them in sealed cabinets and they are reasonably tight, detailed and sensitive. I cross them at 40 Hz but they still perform well with an 80 Hz crossover point. They disappear better than most subs I've owned and if fed a clean thousand watts or less, should last a very long time.

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

@@carlosoliveira-rc2xt thats great im going to build a pair of mini martys for my 18s...

[@davidewhite69]

isnt the hole on the back for a speaker connection terminal block? why didnt you use that instead of drilling a hole?

[@hometheatergurus]

It's covered in the video

[@johnedel5953]

How did you like the devastator for home theater?

[@hometheatergurus]

They're beastly with more output than i can even get close to handling. As i design home theaters i usually spec BTS which are slim and don't take up as much room in false walls. I have those on the way so will soon be doing a video on those as well.

[@mndlessdrwer]

For the uninitiated, this may seem like an excessive amount of bracing. It is not. Speakers of that size move enough air and have enough force behind their movement that they can rattle a lesser box to pieces, not to even mention the distortion you'd hear from the box absorbing and resonating with those vibrations.

[@buyoncecrytwice]

The best professional home theater channel I've ever seen. The Youthman next to You is an amateur.

[@ifbbpromikenorwood]

Are you going to make a video review on these

[@LEIMAHMOOD]

Congratulations

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks!

[@roccomicucci8207]

Amazing work

[@rafalogrodnik3855]

Great video, I'm trying to build 33" box for sub but I need help with it.

[@vikingengca9878]

Lol. You’re going to make me buy one of these. Or two…. Damn you!!

[@hometheatergurus]

haha... Well that's not a bad thing if you're looking for WMDs!!!

[@vikingengca9878]

@@hometheatergurus I currently have dual psa xv18s and have a large open area to fill with bass. They don’t seem to cut it but thinking dual devastators would.

[@hometheatergurus]

I have no doubt the Devs could easily fill even small professional cinemas. I know their music version has been bought and used for concert setups.

[@vikingengca9878]

@@hometheatergurus sounds good. Would the nx6000 Behringer be a good match for 2 devs? One on each channel.

[@hometheatergurus]

@@vikingengca9878 yeah I know many go that route

[@thepnimit...7043]

Good job 👌 sir.... Plan sir.?

[@mohammedisaa9952]

Go look online..... Sir.....

[@aidanzimmerman1296]

Just discovered your videos and have greatly enjoyed them! How do you like the devastator vs one of your own designs or a Full Marty? Debating between getting 2x of either

[@iikatinggangsengii2471]

i like the livepro its always impressive on any combo

[@iikatinggangsengii2471]

roxanne and v3+ have that trait as well

[@seanychenav]

Hi, thank you for putting together this video. I am about to pull the trigger for 2 of these, for live audio application. I am thinking of adding casters and handles. I am thinking of putting 2 corner casters at the rear bottom edge, but there is no good place for handles on the top rear edge to install corner handles. I'm wondering if you or anyone have come up with a good solution for caster and handles to transport this cabinet? Thanks.

[@hometheatergurus]

I'd head over the GSG and contact them. They may have some good ideas as I do know they've been used by bands and in the pro world. I'd imagine maybe an extra layer of plywood on the bottom would be all you'd need for casters. If you do order it would be great if you used my link. shop.gsgad.com/discount/Elitehomecinema

[@kopkiwi08]

Gutted I can’t get these guys to ship internationally

[@keithiegee1]

Unreal Steve! Can’t wait for these to get fired up. Will you be doing a AMV70 ARC setup / room calibration video?

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks! It's on the to do list. Room plans have exploded to the point I have little free time but I'm trying to knock them out faster so I can get some videos done.

[@TyGamer125]

Look forward to hearing your impressions of these.! Find it silly that you didn't use the speakon connector but it's probably that you have the cable running from the ceiling so you put a hole in the top.

[@hometheatergurus]

If it was visible I'd use I DIY terminal cup. I'm not a fan of the added connection points and I don't need a quick type plug / socket. It's just a preference.

[@chijiokepenny2100]

How can I get your help with setting up my Subwoofers in my HT?? I have everything you've recommended in your setup videos. But my microphone just isn't picking up anything ( as if it Isn’t connected) any help would be much appreciated!! Thank you

[@hometheatergurus]

There's some good groups on FaceBook including our own page. unfortunately I have no free time to assist one on one.

[@victorpulos823]

Is this going be a power sub or no

[@hometheatergurus]

It's passive, I have a Speaker Power SP8000 in the rack to push them.

[@victorpulos823]

@@hometheatergurus 👍

[@anandshah71]

@@hometheatergurus I am wanting to make a diy plate amp with Hypex amp modules. They are killer in bass performance. I know Hypex has a plate amp. But it’s computer based. I want knobs with subsonic filter so I can configure my own multichannel Hypex amps

[@jasonlockyer879]

@@anandshah71 Sounds like you'd prefer the SpeakerPower plates.

[@anandshah71]

Hi Jason issue is I live in India and there is no support for such products. Hypex is under my control that’s why I wanted some control for my Hypex. My plan to make entire HomeTheatre and music rooms of my house on Hypex

[@RyanBassForLife]

Cool 😎

[@Ctripp2448]

Give me two nearfield please and a pair up front. Bass heaven

[@hometheatergurus]

These feel nearfield... :). I do plan to add some Crowsons for the low volume watching.

[@chevron916]

I noticed that the recess in front wall of the theatre is much taller than the devastators. Do you have plans to raise the height of the subs?

[@chevron916]

Ah shoot. I just noticed the image you inserted over the video saying you are filling the space with insulation.

[@hometheatergurus]

Yeah it's a demo room so I wanted to have some room in case I stack subs or do who knows what in the future.

[@hometheaterjoe9489]

Nice work bruda, thank you 🙏

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks Joe!

[@dtroutmann]

The Dalles and also ensure longevity of the speaker box it adds rigidity to pieces

[@beastscinema3964]

I'm thinking of doing what you're doing and add a projector screen and built a baffle wall I own captivator 4 thousands JTR subs 2 of them I wanna put those in the rear of the room And more likely by 2 devastators for the front of the room to do what you did But does the devastators go down to 10 Hz Not sure if devastators is considered ported or sealed

[@hometheatergurus]

It's more of bandpass type design. It's tuned to 19hz. GSG does have two new dual 18 and 21s that just came out that are tuned to I 14hz or so. If you need more info on them shoot me an email. Contact info is in the description.

[@russsmith9042]

Nice build I'm with you on that glue though I built a sixth order band pass with 315s that Hunter Martin designed for me double layer 3/4 birch I went back to the big box store three times getting glue well over a gallon I ended up using a damn paint roller and a small paint roller nap and stuff The only way to make it quick and efficient anyway yeah lot more glues than I thought but but there again nice build

[@ferrollg]

What driver was used in this video?

[@glengatt3941]

How low is rated it looks high end ,I was going build 2 but most pro drivers I found 30hz is the lowest it's like they are more focused on dBs

[@hometheatergurus]

Do you mean the FS of the driver? If so you can tune well below the FS but many don't realize it. See the WinISD tutorial video. These are tuned to 19hz and in room will dig even deeper.

[@seanychenav]

30 Hz is the target for some pro audio subs to hit, not only for driver Fs, but also for complete subwoofer's F3 (-3dB frequency), because there is no need for live audio (of most music genre) to go any lower, since the low B note, the lowest note on a 5 bass guitar, is 30 Hz. The Eminence driver has Fs of 29 Hz, which is what this version of Devastator enclosure is tuned to. Matching driver Fs and enclosure tuning frequency typically results in flat frequency response down to just above the tuned frequency. Flat (neutral) response is also what pro audio speakers strive for, because any positove EQ'ing will require additional power, which has a slew of burden up the chain to amplifier, to even the facility power capability.

[@janinapalmer8368]

The front and rear ports should have the same area !!

[@danieldeluzio8674]

I’m not smart enough to understand what happened. But 5hz in a sealed box is crazy. I have 4 21s that I do not have boxes for. Gonna do flat packs… but now I don’t know if I should do ported or sealed. Please help. 😢

[@hometheatergurus]

See the recent video I did on ported vs sealed and how they actually differ which is not what most think. That should help you out but I can tell you I hate low frequency pressure in room as at high spl it beats the room up (room distortion) and pulls you out of the movie. I much prefer to filter 15-20hz and use tactile transducers for the lower stuff. Now that's my preference and as it's a hobby there's no right or wrong, just what i like or you like.

[@danieldeluzio8674]

@@hometheatergurus already checked it out. Great video. I do know that I’ve been experimenting with near field midbass modules… and I want that tactile feel for every frequency. I’ll probably have to get some bass shakers, a lot of nearfield subs, and figure out what to do with the 21s. Everything I read says it’s most appropriate to put them in a box tuned to 28hz that matches the FS. But I also don’t wanna lose out on the low end. So confusing

[@hometheatergurus]

@@danieldeluzio8674 ignore info saying to match the fs. That's not how it works. You can tune well under it with no issues. See the winisd tutorial

[@danieldeluzio8674]

@@hometheatergurus you’d be on the same page as some others and just do 4 full Marty’s ( 1 for each corner )? I’d like to use my 18s as nearfield woofers, but I’m unsure how to integrate smaller woofers in different enclosures, as well as how to do it with 1 minidsp 2x4hd.

[@Snowwie88]

I am surprised that big magnet did not affect your camera.

[@williamkillingsworth2619]

noticed you cut the frame on the tube of caulk, there is also a poker that flips out on the end of the gun to break the seal... yes two years late

[@hometheatergurus]

Yep, there's a hole to cut the tip built into the handle and a metal poker on the gun. If I need a clean small cut on the tip I use a utility knife. If I don't care I use the built in tip cutter.

[@peterchang7646]

at 46:24 I hope you used shorter screws.... there isn't much thread at the top of those long screws that you had in your hand....

[@hometheatergurus]

There was plenty of thread to bite. Thanks for watching.

[@AncientEgyptArchitecture]

All the publications on speaker building I have read recommend against using fiber/fluff/rockwool, etc., inside vented system cabinets and using resonance damping materials applied to the inner walls instead, such as NoRez sheets, etc.

[@mndlessdrwer]

I'd opt for both. Fiber fill helps to slow the movement of air and lowers the resonant frequency within an enclosure (though not by a lot unless you really cram it full), whereas vibration absorbent materials like butyl rubber sheeting or mass loaded vinyl sheeting and foam can help to reduce the resonance of the cabinet itself. The best recommendation I've seen is that if you're going to be packing the cabinet with loose fiber fill, you should get some muslin fabric or a similar light weight fabric that has good airflow by a relatively consistent and small weave, and staple or otherwise adhere it around where the driver will be sitting in the cabinet so you can prevent the fiber fill from trying to invade your voice coil over time. This is particularly relevant with larger drivers or drivers with high excursion as they can generate sufficient airflow to actually move loose fiber fill around. Or you could use pillows. Another interesting alternative to sound damping foam/rock wool sheeting/cotton or wool matting is to use scrap towels and just use some cord or something to stitch a bunch of them together at a few places to make them into a mat, then staple that around the edges into the cabinet. The pile of the towels really helps to knock down sound waves that try to penetrate them. You can do the same thing and staple them to a wooden frame then cover that with a piece of attractive fabric or take a piece of fabric to a print shop and have them print a piece of artwork onto it with dye sublimation or UV printing and use that to cover the frame and the towels hidden within to create sound dampening acoustic artwork. This works less well with actual art, since the gesso on the canvas makes it significantly more reflective. Edit: forgot to mention that coating the exterior of a cabinet, particularly for a subwoofer that is meant to be hidden away like this, with something like a rubberized truck bed-liner paint will also help damp cabinet resonances, since it is similarly viscoelastic like butyl rubber sheeting. It also has the benefit of being extremely durable and comes in black, so it's ideal for these enclosure types.

[@WiKiTWoNKaWeCKoRDS]

You could probably use some broken pencils for the wooden dowels

[@hometheatergurus]

Yeah maybe some of the really large pencils. If you've got a good eye you don't need it but they're nice.

[@WiKiTWoNKaWeCKoRDS]

@@hometheatergurus true

[@bartrainer3916]

This man has built himself a Refrigerator!

[@hometheatergurus]

😂.. It doesn't keep the milk cold at all though 🤷

[@bartrainer3916]

@@hometheatergurus But it will be able to make milkshake!

[@hometheatergurus]

@@bartrainer3916 yeah it can definitely do that ! 😁

[@tavarisjones551]

Get yourself a silicone glue brush. It will help you spread your glue and have less squeeze out. The squeeze out becomes a problem if you try to paint/finish the cabinet.

[@hometheatergurus]

I've been building subs and speakers for over 2 decades. If I'm going to finish it I clean it up on the exterior, as I go, as I did here and do on all my cabs. A wet rag and you're done. I like squeeze out, that means I have enough glue..:). See the channel videos for cabs I've done including a base coat clear.

[@MyFatherLoves]

My brain absolutely broke when I saw you not use the Speakon port.

[@hometheatergurus]

Speak on cups are plastic and add small connection points to the signal chain. Where I do use connectors I actually drill out for terminals and if I wanna go all out I make a wood cup with terminals. You can see that on the Hammer build videos. If the sub isn't going to be seen go for the most electrically sound connection with as little weakening of the cab as possible. Speakon connections are for the pro world where you need to move gear constantly. I'm just not a fan of them for my own use.

[@MyFatherLoves]

@@hometheatergurus I guess I don't understand how you connected the sub in this video to your system on such a short cable. Are you twisting bare wires together? I'm not trying to be combative by the way, I'm just wanting to understand is all. My experience and background in is pro audio and out of that, I moved to home theater for last 7yrs or so. So, even in large auditorium installs, we would do unbroken runs from amp to loudspeaker and they would either terminate with barewire or Speakon depending on the device. So, I don't understand the hesitancy with Speakon. Correct termination of Speakon is done with solder to connect bare copper to the copper terminals inside the Speakon plug or inlet. No different than soldering a banana plug setup. Speakon is just more secure.

[@hometheatergurus]

@@MyFatherLoves it's actually wire nutted to the run behind the wall. I actually measure connections with a device called a tdr. You can see even a solder joint. I like to use as few connections as possible and actually a wire nut with twisted wire is a very good connection that's electricity better than banana plugs. Not that it matters here but when speaker and subs are hidden I like to keep it simple and there no reason to add unnecessary connections. With a speakon you go from one connection like I have with the wire nut to 3 with the speak on and you have a terminal plate as part of the enclosure. You've added a Small clamp down or soldered terminal connection in plug and socket and the plug and socket connection itself.

[@serithin4703]

Where is the sub amp?

[@hometheatergurus]

It's passive so it's in the rack however they can be ordered active with a plate amp.

[@descent8275]

if I ever own a house... i'll do something similar 👁👄👁

[@luisgtz596]

Chingon !!!!

[@ianrusso8790]

cool

[@m4nc1n1]

I can't believe they do not supply the pegs. The point of a kit is to have everything you need.

[@hometheatergurus]

You don't need the pegs at all. They're just something for those that don't trust their selves but you'd have to be really off to be off enough to matter. Like the glue got in my eyes and I can' t see kinda off. I'm half blind and I did it...😄

[@nodice9227]

I enjoyed the video. My only concern was the pillows. They looked like such a fire hazard in there. Could you have gone with some kind of fire retardant material to dampen the resonance as an alternative?

[@hometheatergurus]

Probably not a bad idea.

[@mohammedisaa9952]

I use loft insulation.... "they" reccomend "rock woll panels" as being the best.... 👍🏻🙂🏆

[@mohammedisaa9952]

# wool .... fat fingers/typo.... soz

[@rndmlogin]

Fun video, great resource for anyone looking to build them for themselves. But, all that construction and no demo?!@#$ Don't leave us hanging! :)

[@hometheatergurus]

Ha.. I guess I should video them shaking the kitchen cabinets violently ... :) ..

[@bingdong8571]

The flat pack packaged is already bigger than any speaker ive ever seen. I hope it shrank

[@hometheatergurus]

Ha... No it didn't shrink! 😁

[@scasman1]

All that and you drill a random hole for the speaker wire.

[@hometheatergurus]

you damn right i did. Outta sight outta mind. 😎

[@electricjamie]

If you are refilling glue bottles, a larger ketchup bottle works much nicer.

[@stefanweilhartner4415]

for me, even i had the space for it, this is not the right construction because of it's band pass resonance design. i prefer a very dry and resonance free subwoofer which is true to the audio signal. that is a simple closed box with no vents. a good inner construction that keeps the side boards from resonating and radiating.

[@FOH3663]

It's not really a bandpass design. It's horn loaded bass reflex, tuned to 19hz. It's devastatingly fast, visceral energy ... all from off the chart sensitivity and power. Yes, sealed is theoretically superior, etc. I built my own quad 18 infinite baffle attic dual-opposed manifold. Plus other subs. But a single Devastator would crush any of it. It's compression, even four 18"s made for IB have too much compression through the mid and upper bass. The Devastator is a peerless design ... peerless at maximizing Hoffman's Law of output, extension, and size. It's less loss, accurate signal tracking capability, articulation. It's a 21" vented tuned to 19hz, and the front of the driver is loaded by a single piece of wood, extending to the opening. The mid bass clarity and articulation makes most anything else sound like mush.

[@traintraintrain51]

Why not build a subfloor in a theater build to include this setup designed into the floor. Real shakers!

[@hometheatergurus]

I'd much rather tactile transducers which are basically sub motors attached to the seats. This is gives you a tactile response at all levels vs having to crank to high levels to get tactile. I've had rooms on floating floors and on a 2nd floor. Even with those floors tactile transducers still add fun that subs alone don't. That said the Devs can shake your pants and make the seats vibrate even on concrete. They can easily pressurize the room.

[@lai168]

I am building a floating floor 12X12 on 4 ea 8,000 lbs capacity tire spring with a subwoofer underneath hope this will shall willfull😅

[@tech4life884]

Imagine having to replace a blown subwoofer in this.

[@hometheatergurus]

Easy. Remove hatch and there it is.

[@dougg1075]

Bad to the bone my man. I want one

[@hometheatergurus]

Its output is ridiculous!

[@DeadlyVenomKing]

5:16 Your head looking mirrors

[@hometheatergurus]

Hell Yeah.. it's got some shine.. All you guys will have have jokes...😂

[@DodgyBrothersEngineering]

My LMS Ultra 5400 laughs at your 48.1lb driver. Coming in at 86.2lbs and most of that is magnet weight.

[@hometheatergurus]

The LMS was a fantastic driver.

[@DodgyBrothersEngineering]

@@hometheatergurus yes it's a pity they went out of business.

[@prodbykaioken]

I expected to see a ton of polyfil not a queen size bed set stuffed in a box

[@hometheatergurus]

You saw polyfil in a nicely packaged bag perfectly placed... 😉

[@FelixRisingOriginal]

Soooo confused... Speaking connector??? Why run a cable out the side?!

[@hometheatergurus]

It's completely hidden behind a screen wall. Less connections, better connections. If this were a sub to be seen I'd have terminals.

[@josephsjodin4837]

Finally lol

[@hometheatergurus]

Ha.. yeah i've been editing this on and off for a few months. This one took too long to get done. So I agree.. Finally!

[@Smood47]

Wtf is duck board ?

[@hometheatergurus]

It's what ducks make their houses out of.

[@Smood47]

@@hometheatergurus Keep on failing

[@hometheatergurus]

@@Smood47 Google it. Hvac ductboard

[@chevron916]

@@hometheatergurusIs there a specific thickness of duct board you recommended using for the baffle?

[@hometheatergurus]

@@chevron916 1" is fine.

[@BillyBlaze7]

why not just buy a pro audio sub already built, for musicians?

[@hometheatergurus]

Thia is tuned for home theater so it's great for anything you throw at it.

[@scotty362100]

It's like watching an old Chinese martial arts movie, the dialog doesn't match the mouth movements, and the sound effects are about 2 seconds out of sync.! roflmfao P.S. Those cable staples are a really bad addition, they WILL vibrate loose and hopefully not land inside the speaker and just vibrate around in the cabinet. And it is SPAX screws - not Spanks.

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks for watching.

[@anonymous-tn6ij]

Not a dado it’s a rabbet

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks for watching

[@timhumphrey2030]

Nothing but money

[@dennisduran8500]

Nah...who needs dowels...all they do is align everything.

[@hometheatergurus]

If you're good at aligning by eye skip them, if you need them as some do, definitely use them. They're not included as it's not necessary but optional.

[@chickenpotpie4045]

As someone who is into pro audio, car audio, hifi and home theater, I will NEVER understand why you guys insist on using poorly optimized pro audio woofers that are designed for large open venues and are not designed to play sub bass tones, as subwoofers, it's baffling. Think about it logically for a half second, what does 20hz look like? What does 200hz look like? Clear and VERY visible and obvious difference, right? What's the difference between 200hz and 2000hz, in terms of woofer excursion? Very little, right? You can't beat physics, and you're asking woofers optimized for 200hz+ bass fill, to handle sub tones, and sure, like any driver, they can produce sound outside of their optimum range, but that doesn't mean it's happy doing it, or that it's doing it well. I'll put my pair of 12" Martinsson design THAM12 loaded w/ Sundown Audio SA-12V2 running on my Crown XLS1502 against your 18" ANYDAY. My cousin has a rather large system that they supply to large events, I bought my XLS1502 from him, his sub boxes are EAW SB850s loaded with 2x RCF L18P400. We compared a pair of them to my subs when I had just built them, before they were even properly broken in, and yes the 4x big 18's got louder at higher frequencies, however the low end hit, even at full volume, as in the ability to shake shit off the shelves and pound in your chest, was pretty much exactly the same in room as my little subs. We did take them outside after, big open savannah with 300ft of flat cut grass in every direction, and about 80-100ft away from my subs, you could barely hear them, much less feel them, they are not designed or optimized for large open venues. The big SB850's could be felt in your chest from at least a quarter mile away, those big bitches hit HARD in the right venue, that venue is not your living room, you're not sitting a quarter mile away from those subs. They are designed to throw sound far away, to cover distance, because they're designed for concerts and public address in large spaces, when you put them in a small room, and yes, even your 100x100 living room is a small room to those subs, they're just not as good at pressurizing the room as a proper subwoofer, because they weren't designed to do that. Bigger is not always better, compare the F3 of the RCF L18P400 (Or your woofer) vs the Sundown Audio SA-12V2, the RCF's F3 is 52Hz in the optimum ported enclosure 3.2 cu ft, the Sundown's F3 in a small 1.5cu ft ported bass reflex enclosure is 29Hz. What are you trying to accomplish? Not sub bass? 50Hz is the mid-high end of sub bass, my subs crossover at 80Hz. Compared to a proper subwoofer which IS designed to pressurize a space, those big speakers just cannot perform the way you want them to. You're probably gonna get a little offended and maybe even a little defensive when you read this, I don't blame you, you spent a LOT of time, money and effort to build these monsters, and I am not saying they're bad, I'm saying they're poorly suited to the task and you'd have superior results from a smaller but more optimized subwoofer. These would fit in so perfectly into a large outdoor system, you could shake the block with these, but for your living room? For home theater where I want the sub to be able to produce and hold a 20hz tone? They're just not the best fit, and I'm personally confused by just how many people seem to do this.

[@mohammedisaa9952]

I completely agree, "horses for courses"..... you wouldnt use a "shire horse" in a race, or a "race horse throughabred" pulling a heavy wagon.... both would fail.....

[@honumoorea873]

Wood glue, the thinner layer you have between 2 pieces of wood, the stronger it is... do not do what this guy do.

[@jaydorsett1580]

So…. we are taking time to watch your build video…. Did you watch any build videos? You really need alot of improvement in woodworking. Fear not! You can easily gain that by watching builders and cabinet making vids

[@hometheatergurus]

I've been designing and building subs for over 20 years. It's a sub that will be hidden not fine furniture. Thanks for watching.

[@kesnaidoo1078]

Doing it for 20 years doesn’t mean that you have been doing it right. At around 30 min you mention the braces don’t need too much glue. This alone shows you haven’t learned anything in 20 years

[@josephsaucedo8691]

It's a pro audio woofer only watch movie non war movies and live music that thing can't handle regular music played from a CD player it will blow that sub. If it was me I rather have a car audio subwoofer to be able to go low. That sub ment to be loud but not a hole lot of bass that why it's in a horn the sound will travel but to hiar all the different details you would have to be far away that's way most powered subs are car audio sub disgined. It's better in a room application and plays low in movie's p.s. my 12in sub is 75 pounds 2500w RMS and it considered a street design the comp version Even bigger I could only imagine 15 or 18 inch. if you had two of them you would need a 8k amplifier just for the subs. Now That's big

[@hometheatergurus]

Car audio subs by nature don't extend that low as they have a high FS as does the driver used here. This driver just has the displacement, xmax and power handling to get down low in the right box. The Dev is tuned to 19hz and that can be measured at the port. As for having to be far away whoever told you that lied to you. That's not a thing. Ground planes are done at 6' . Two of these in room are linear easily to 17hz with enough output to wake up your local PD. If you're gonna come at this with a 12" driver you better have a bag full of unicorn dust because this a monster from head to toe and would likely have your 12 running home to get it's big brothers . The drivers seen here have 10,000 watts of peak power handling each, klipple verified.

[@ShadyOne9]

Jesus that’s insane for indoors…. I bet it rattles ur BHole

[@hometheatergurus]

During the maverick jet scenes the afterburners would shake your pants legs. Very fun subs.

[@thomasschafer7268]

Never would a neodym Chassis build inside a box. Heating of the coil. And too expensive. Get 2 from b&c for 1 eminence. And 5000 Watts for a home cinema!! 👎👎😜😜🇩🇪

[@mikeyan7312]

No rubber surround then is not a subwoofer

[@hometheatergurus]

Rubber is for tires... Whatever you wanna call them they'll wreck the neighbors house.. You can call them cantaloupes if you want...😀

[@mikeyan7312]

@@hometheatergurus yall know what im talking about, the foam on every single edge of a real sub

[@hometheatergurus]

@@mikeyan7312 Yeah foam is OK. That in no way makes something a sub and foam dry rots in time. I think you need to rethink how you define "subs" :). Trust me.. this is a sub of mass destruction.