DIY variable bench power supply (less than 10$)

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

You should add a high power dummy load on the power rail (in this case red 5V) to keep the power supply a little bit more stable for low amounts of current. I forgot to mention that.

[@msdesignru]

OK, got you!

[@lokeshrahul8504]

I built this power supply a year ago, adding dummy load burns the connection wires , the load resistor is burned , and DC 400v capacitor also burned, it's not suitable for lab purposes. I tried removing short-circuit protection ic but mains supply is shorted I don't know why but it's lethal man.

[@telefon72]

Sounds like you did something wrong, the resistance of your load might have been too big.

[@lokeshrahul8504]

karlpc200 nope, I watched so many vids in utube they are using 10ohm resistor .

[@telefon72]

Yeah but maybe just a 1 ohm would be good. It shouldn't be able to burn the wires then. Anyways, if you burn out the wires you are definetly doing something wrong. :)

[@maro9282]

Great project. Last week I found working ATX power supply on the street and I want to make an adjustable power supply. Your tutorial is the best one I have found :D thank you very much! Amazing work!

[@asm_nop]

There are only two things I would change about this design. Some power supplies require a minimum load on the 5v or 12v rail to keep the voltage outputs in range, so you should use a high-power dissipation resistor or a small static load to keep the PSU stable. In my case, I used an extra fan and some bright white LEDs to illuminate my workspace. The fan draws 12v current and the LEDs draw 5v. Second, since all of the ground lines are the same anyway, you may as well get a piece of aluminum or copper bar, drill holes along it, screw all of your negative terminals to it in a row, then connect all of the ground lines to this metal bar. That way, each negative terminal can have access to all of the ground lines, and you don't have to worry about partitioning out your ground lines according to which Vout you hope your highest current draw will be on..

[@orionahrens6318]

I have 2 10 w 10 v load resistors and an extra fan is that to much? and can you use a extra capacitor to smooth out the signal?

[@bartoszbaranowski604]

You can always set up fan to suck up soldering fumes on top of the unit.

[@cri8tor]

Brilliant tips! Please consider a short video on this subject. Cheers m8

[@konyaelod]

@@cri8tor that would be nice

[@kruskotv1311]

@@konyaelod Yea I would love if Jaden made the video showcasing his tips, but yea....too late I would ask you tho, Jaden, are you talking about copper ground bus bar ? I was searching for it on Google and it seems to be what you are referring to in your second tip, care to elaborate ?

[@UpcycleElectronics]

Nice production quality, and effort. FYI the PWM SMPS controller circuit designed into ATX power supplies only uses 1 rail for the 2 comparators and feedback circuit. This means that all other voltage rails are regulated through magnetic coupling only. Most of these ATX bench supplies eventually fail because of this configuration. These supplies are designed as cheaply as possible for a very specific type of load. The load must always draw more current from the main rail as it is designed. The main rail is the rail with the highest current rating. If you understand this circuit topology you will also see why the extra voltage rails appear to drift a small amount as the load changes. Some supplies use additional linear regulators to limit this issue. Regardless, if you try to pull a considerable current from one of the extra rails while the main rail has a lower load, the SMPS controller doesn't have the ability to monitor and compensate for it directly. This is an easy way to cause the circuit to fail. If you want to understand SMPS controllers in depth the simplest starting point is a "Peak Mode" controller. These only have 1 comparator and feedback loop. They are far more simple to understand. Most 5v car-type phone chargers use the simplest configuration possible. These devices usually come with a MC34063 chip in a simple 9 component DC to DC Buck Converter configuration. The next easiest Peak Mode controller to find and modify are the power bricks for laptops/printers. You can make simple adjustable power supplies out of all of these by themselves by just adding a potentiometer in place of one of the feedback resistors. I've uploaded a couple examples before. I'm none monotized and no affiliation links. I'm just here to make friends and check out what other people with similar interests are doing :) Subscribed. All the best, -Jake

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Thank you for your sincere comment!

[@theGraphicAutist]

Very helpful to know... Question... What if I only used the main rail and just varied that

[@plutoniumisotope205]

@@ELECTRONOOBS can u change the current? If yes min/ max

[@dieSpinnt]

Yes of course, ALL power supplies are like that, because Jake knows them all. Especially this antiquated TL494 flyback design he's obviously talking about. Sorry, I don't mean it badly ... even in 1990 there was feedback on ALL low-voltage outputs possible. It then leads to an emergency shutdown if it is misused. ... or ATX1 and cheap, it doesn't matter ... any PC power supply ... the whole thing is a stupid idea to build a laboratory power supply with it. Including the *chopper* , uh I mean DC/DC converter. Who comes up with such nonsense? Actually, I say the same thing as Jake, but without flowers. I think that's an absolutely bad idea. A laboratory power supply, like proper measuring instruments, is a basic component of a laboratory. Without it, proper work is almost impossible and a torture. So why torpedo your own fun and success by saving money at the wrong end? Warning, wisdom: What do you need to build a decent power supply? A better power supply! And a decent measuring device that can tell you what kind of junk ... or not ... you've built. Edit: By the way, what also belongs to a do-it-yourself construction is a comprehensive measurement protocol. Otherwise the video is just a fairy tale hour ... at least when it comes to power supplies, the key data such as stability and ripple are important and worth knowing for the viewer. Really useless and strangely enough nobody does that with these botch power supplies. I wonder why?;)

[@MrHBSoftware]

@@dieSpinnt you sound like one of those guys that has all the $$$$$$"laboratory spec" gear but cant build shit ahahha ..... i dont see a problem using an atx supply and a cheap meter for diy stuff like playing with arduinos or repairing and tinkering with your own stuff, now if if you have a company and do circuit design or repairs for a living then maybe a quality comercial power supply would be recommended. as far as stability i did not see any deviations in voltage, the meter may be innacurate but it would display voltage chages if there were any and ripple is very easily minimized with a capacitor. i am sure nobody will be using a diy power supply to launch a rocket or to control a nuclear power plant.

[@Farizno]

Nice guide. I followed it and built my own variable power supply, but put it in a nice metal case I got on ebay. Thanks for the lesson and the good explanations.

[@tomidk3223]

I made it and it works PERFECTLY , thank you for this tutorial ;)

[@denzilcypret742]

Your videos are very informative but I am confused on some basics. For example, only one power source is used, so why not use just one black banana plug for all the dedicated voltage plugs? This would tie in with the common ground copper-bus suggested below--or have I overlooked something?

[@cri8tor]

Great video tutorial. Thank you for posting all the helpful links and for taking the time to record, edit and post your project. There are many of us who appreciate the effort it takes to create content on multiple sites. Cheers

[@minkorrh]

The only issue I have with SMPS is the fact that you can't really do anything with an oscilloscope unless you use an isolation transformer. I built my power supply with a linear transformer. I just used an MOT rewound to 24v.

[@BrightSparkIdeas]

Thank you for a great, helpful and informative video. It is a shame small minded people make such a fuss about your less than $10 title and completely miss the useful information. We should all be encouraged by your resourcefulness to reuse scrape and old material for our DIY projects.

[@felixcat4346]

I don't think you will get the full range of voltage unless you vary the input voltage into the step up, step down converter. Same for the amperage. It would be better to find an ATX power supply that uses the TL494 pwm chip and vary the resistance on its pin #1 with a 10k potentiometer.

[@Livefreeman]

or you can buy TL494 chip and do it yourself

[@waltercomunello121]

I've got an old 200W PSU with a TL494CN pw modulator and also the TL494CN datasheet laying around somewhere. I'm going to try as soon as I have the occasion. Unfortunately varying the voltage doesn't work that well because capacitors on the board do not allow for voltages higher than 16V usually on the 12V rail and 10V on the 5V and 3V3. Replacing the capacitor with one rated for a higher voltage might as well screw up other settings. GreatScott! tried to hack an ATX power supply to make it output a variable voltage but ran against the same problem and ultimately failed because he tinkered with it a little too much. Here is the complete video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZaxcpuGYqx8oNE In my opinion it would be better to fine-tune the three main rails with a 10k 10 turns potentiometer each, then trust an external step up- step down converter on the 12V rail to get more precise results; or as an alternative connect the converter on the 5V rail since usually this outputs more current than the others. Also, the sheer difference in current delivered / accepted by the standard rails (12V, 5V, 3V3 with a minimum of around 8 to 10 amps) and the "non standard" rails (-5V, -12V with an absolute maximum of 1A) should be put into attention when connecting them.

[@adoniscmj3212]

The Buck boost converter is too small for most ATX power supplies. I found one at Banggood that is 600 watts that will handle the amperage from the ATX power supply. Neat project.

[@19Edurne]

Interesting and detailed explanation, but wouldn't it be wise to put fuses somewhere in there? Just asking.

[@tmburns4]

Great video! Questions: If you were making a bench power supply like this with a transformer instead of an ATX, and a 3-in-1 Adjustable DC Regulated Power Supply DIY Kit, how could you get 3.3, 5, and 12 volts for the fixed voltage outputs?

[@GreenFart174]

Can I solder a normal 100 kOhm resistor to a 100 kOhm multiturn potentiometer in order to get to 200 kOhm? Can't find a 200 kOhm multiturn potentiometer! My step up booster uses the 204w trimmpot

[@NNNILabs]

I've built a very similar power supply based off a 450W ATX. It's smaller because I cut holes in the power supply box itself. Yours looks great.

[@Marco_Onyxheart]

Can I just solder the green and black wire together? That way, it will always be turned on as soon as the PSU is turned on.The PSU already has an on/off switch after all.

[@RegebroRepairs]

Hm. I need a power supply. But I have a PC power supply left over. And I have two voltage regulators left over from another project. Not sure if I can get current limitations though.

[@sotospt52]

So the regulator can go up to 3Amps, but the power supply can go up to 30amps. Did you use the 30Amps output or not? Did you use only the 12V output?

[@rexpimplemyer3839]

Awesome video. Thank you for presenting it in a clear and understandable fashion. The fact that you also included a computer PSU as the base supply was great since I have been a computer tech much longer than an electronics tech so PSU's I know. Now I know my next major project. :)

[@amitghosh6966]

Will there be any problems if we use transformer as power supply for this module? Also, will we get noise free output even if we use smps as suppy?

[@AmateurInventor]

What if we use bigger potentiometer with different value?

[@raonimoisan4614]

Hello, I did everything like described in the video but when i turn on the power supplie it starts workind and then it shuts down automatically. I can tell by the fan that as just the time to start. I Checked the connections and the wiring twice. ANY idea ? Btw thank you for this great tutorial !

[@droquesteni]

Hey man, you should you a dummy load...like an extra fan ou a car bulb lamp. The power supply shuts off because is no load and automatic shuts off. Trie to connect something in the 12 v or 5 v and see if shuts down...good luck

[@raonimoisan4614]

@@droquesteni Hey thank you for your answer ! I tried to had a dummy load on the 5v rail but it didn't helped. So I rechecked everything and made some tests by eliminating the components one by one. It appears that the problem come from the digital display. Everything works fine when I by pass it. I have 3 of them so I tried with each one, and the atx always shuts down... Maybe I'm wiring it wrong but I did excatly the same wiring as it is in the video. I'm a bit confused here, just can't figure it out... Thanks you for your help

[@droquesteni]

@@raonimoisan4614 no problem. So if your problem is from the display, be aware that if you buy this king of display lcd on ebay they are different! I realized that the display i bought have the same 2 connections BUT the connection to the amp meter the 2 large cables red and black if for only measurement of the amps! The other connection have 3 wires red, black and yeallow. So this connetion red and black is for feed the lcd to 5v, the yellow wire if for volts measurement! So, yellow wire to + of the dc boost for example, to the 2 large wires, red wire to the - of the boost and the black wire to the ouput you want measure... hope that helps! take care!

[@waltercomunello121]

@@raonimoisan4614 Chances are that you're wiring your LCD the wrong way. I had the same issue, then a more careful sheet reading and a correct wiring fixed the problem.

[@andrewbaerm.d.3984]

I got the DSW5020, the 20 amp version. Worked for awhile. Suddenly I can no longer test my laser diodes..can't get more than 1.25 amps out of it even when I set the max amps to 5. Really strange. I tried changing the power source but that did not help either. No longer works.

[@ihateuni4036]

how do you get 5V 2A? or is it -5V? Furthermore, there are some differences between current label from PSU and your printed label. was it misprinted or does it really provide 20A @ 3.3V and 17A @ 12V? your PSU only provide 14A @ 3.3V and 8A @ 12V.

[@petermikus2363]

I know that i am really late but i wanted to ask if i wanted finer control for the voltage how could i do that? Could i just add a second pontentimeter of higher resistance value to the original one?

[@19Edurne]

A few questions: I see you have two +5V outputs with different amperages so my guess is that you just connected one wire to the 2A output and 5 to the 26A one, since the total +5V of your power supply is rated 30A. Is that so? Plus, I have a 650W power supply (+3,3/24A, +5V/30A, +12V/52A) I am thinking of using like yours, but the voltage with the more amps is the +12V one, so I guess the dummy load would have to go there; but does it matter where you put it on the circuit and its value? Because you only mention it in your comment but not in the vid, so I wonder.

[@aimless3827]

Led module Positive and negative is connect each other by that steel bar, Did you un-connect them?

[@antenaseinterfacescb]

TKS for sharing your knowledge. So if I want to put more Ampers I have to use another device, I would like to put 13,8V with 20 Ampers is that possible? TKS.

[@theGraphicAutist]

I don't understand if you're voltage converter can only handle 3:00 amps how do you have all the buttons for or is that not part of the variable part

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Only the first connectors are variable. The other are fixed values directly from the supply and those haev high current

[@theGraphicAutist]

@@ELECTRONOOBS gotcha thanx...

[@amitghosh6966]

Can we get noise free output from this power supply so we can test audio amplifier boards also?

[@shadowhunterxxx5891]

Use 15 watt buck/boost converter with 300 wat atx power supply?

[@soldiers303]

I'm a little confused. Why do you have a switch for the variable connectors?

[@orionahrens6318]

is there a safety just in case I accidentally short the power supply when working on something. plus I have 2 10 Ohm 10 v dummies and a extra fan is that too much? can you put a extra capacitor to smooth out the signal?

[@denzilcypret742]

Just what I've been looking for! However, I am a noob and a little confused. Does the output enable switch in the schematic have to be 'ON' to get variable output from the buck-boost converter? Also, will the LCD function when that switch is 'OFF'? I know, very stupid questions that are covered by the video but my infant brain won't recognize them! Many thanks!

[@MB-ec1cb]

Hi, I have a voltmeter ammeter with yellow black and red wires and black and red, if I connect the way you in diagram it shorts and shuts psu,can you tell how should I connect correctly to make it work for variable output?

[@danielbaker5570]

A couple of questions. Why solder multiple 12v cables to the input of the converter? Why not just one 12v cable? Is it just for redundancy? Also, would you pick the the highest voltage output from the pc power supply or would it be better to pick the highest amp output on the pc supply. Last question, what is the middle potentiometer on the buck boost used for ? if the other two are used for voltage and ampage adjustment. If anyone could help me with this. It would be much appreciated!

[@konyaelod]

The fan blows the air in or sucks out?

[@hotlava2222]

Great video, I got an issue, using a different model lcd, looks the same but its a bit different wiring, dsn-vc288, the problem I have is that I can only seem to see volts or amps not at the same time, i have to remove the thick red wire (amps) and connect the (thin) yellow wire (volts) but cant connect them both.

[@steve6375]

I think the schematic is wrong for the vc288. The thin red+black wires supply the meter (must be 5v or more). The thick red+black measure the current in the -ve return path (so it can measure current flowing from supply module - the two thick wires are connected together by a very low ohm shunt inside the meter). The thin yellow sense wire goes to +ve terminal to measure voltage at +ve terminal. The thin black wire and the thick black wire should both be at the same 0V potential. diyprojects.eu/how-to-wire-digital-dual-display-volt-and-ammeter/

[@254priyanka4]

I have question if I apply 12 5a at the input of the buck converter what is the output voltage and current

[@LEO-xo9cz]

If I'm using a 300w ATX is it possible to get 12v 300w or 24v 300w? I work with LEDs and need the power. Why did you put the variable resistors the other way around to the display markings?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Watt is voltage times current. A 300W power supply at 12V will have a maximum current output of 300/12 = 25A. But maybe that's not the case because usually those supplies have multiple outputs and the output current might be a bit lower. So, the power (W) will always be the same but the current will change.

[@LEO-xo9cz]

Electronoobs Thank you for the response. I was thinking of making a supply with a separate 3.3 and 5v and then using the 12v 18A 216W output separately connected to a buck/boost. Would it be a decent option or would I need to get a supply that can put out the voltage needed and then just using a buck?

[@tutorden9515]

Could not get the display to show the correct Voltage or ampage, no variable power, checked all the wiring all ok ?

[@sickvic3909]

Nice job. I have most of this built previously but liked your buck con. better. It looks like your schematic shows a black wire on the positive output of the buck. Is that correct, it does not match video connections. :)

[@hannnnn310]

Won't the potentiometer burned up when it reached zero?

[@-cancode-3701]

Great video! Thanks! One thing though, is the links to the parts you have are mostly gone now. The listing has ended, or there sold out, or just gone for good. Do you mind updating that page?

[@mamomoleeuwarden8949]

great diy project need it on the job, build it today , works fine , but a load was needed and i like it cheap dirty and works great.

[@WhiteDieselShed]

I built one of these a while back and the PSU killed itself. Seems your supposed to add a constant load which is always on? Do you know what it kills and why it needs this dummy load? Thanks

[@acharyaguy]

The link for buck-boost converter doesn't work, is there any alternative for that ?

[@soultracer]

No fuses?

[@LEO-xo9cz]

Hi please give me some advice. I have a computer power supply that is rated at 350W. I want to put a pair of USB plugs onto it to utalize the 3.3v 20A, 5v x 20A, 5v x 2A, and the 2 x 12v x 312W outputs. My plan is to do 2 x 5v USB, 1 x 3.3v 1 x 12 v to power a T12 soldering iron and the other a 12v a buck buck boosted supply. What would you recommended?

[@taranagnew436]

how would i add a on/off switch to the prebuilt power supply that you buy and could i hook up a 12v power supply to the input??

[@duartesospc]

Hello. Your tutorial is great,but i have some questions: i have some power suplys from old laptops, one of them with 15v, and is small,perfect for this project. Do you think is possible to use it,instead of a desktop power suply?? Another question, if i going to use the laptop psu, do you think i can connect the volt/ampmeter directly to 15v input,because it doesn´t have 5v power rail like desktop psu?From i understand in specifications,it says:"Power supply range: DC4-30.0V" And 3rd question, do you think i can use this project(made from desktop or laptop,doesnt matter) to detect shorts in circuits,like laptop boards?

[@BuzZ.]

Is there anything like a small current limiting circuit ?

[@GeekMustHave]

Excellent video, by watching I was able to resolve my wiring issue with the same V/A meter. Thanks. Keep broadcasting

[@apku04]

Electronoobs , first of all, great video and it is very inspiring. However, please correct me if I am wrong, but I think the output terminal connection to the volt/amp meter are switched around on you diagram right? ..which must be a mistake ? ....I dont have the component at hand (yet) just watching your diagram and the products from ebay...i could be wrong

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Te diagram is correct. The problem is that there are different colors cables for other modules on eBay... Sometimes they use yellow, blue and so on...

[@apku04]

@@ELECTRONOOBS , sry i meant the boost converter output side towards the meter, the image is mirrored so it is bit difficult to se. But as I see it from the picture then the terminal close o the pot meter is + positive (around 6:42 in the vid), and the one close to LM2577S is -negative, right?.

[@minakshiminu2836]

Can we use step down buck converter

[@duartesospc]

Hello. Can i use a bench power like this to find short circuits in laptop motherboards? Use it to inject tension and see if have anormal consunptions?

[@davidtomic1010]

Isn't that flyback converter only 2A?

[@moccaloto]

Great video. I think this will be my first electronics project

[@HunterCoin]

Your video has inspired me to build a similar power supply. My question is: the wires from the Pots look to be a much smaller gauge than for example the (2) 12V wires from the power supply entering the converter. Does the full voltage and current when amplified pass through these Pot wires, and are they sufficient? And can you please tell me the gauges of the wires, excluding the power supply wires? Thanks and yes the video is GREAT!

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

The potentiometer wires are signal wires. No high current will pass through those wires, don't worry.

[@HunterCoin]

Thank you for the info! I'm now just waiting on a couple more pieces to the puzzle (they are on a slower boat from China).

[@HunterCoin]

I received the Ammeter/Voltmeter DSN-VC288 as Linked in your web page. However the color code on your schematic is not the same and the 2 wires Red and Black on my part are considerably larger than the Red, Yellow, and Black on this. Seems to be quite different than yours. Could you check the DSN-VC288 that I was directed to and verify if it is correct for this project and if a new color coded schematic is needed. Thanks!

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Just substitute the blue wire in my schematic with the yellow one. Connect the large BLACK and RED wires to 5V and the other BLACK RED and YELLOW as in my schematic but with yellow instead of blue. Keep up!

[@pdrfrzpdrfrz8107]

Hi thanks for the video. I am going to build a similar one but I have a question. Can I also use a xl6009 lm2577 step up-down converter up to 4A?

[@JTCamper]

Very good. I bought my buck converter and meter from China / Hong Kong and I have a PSU somewhere. I can easily build something similar for less than £8

[@tonysicily2687]

May I ask what is the make & model number of your breadboard

[@pefferie]

Why would a need a 5V 2A output in addition to 5V 26A? I thought that if a PSU can handle 26A, it can also handle 2A...

[@donaldhenke2750]

I have a atx power supply that will not take 6amps without turning it off then connecting the load then it works. if i dont turn it off before i connect the load it shuts down. any ideas?

[@ahsabuj6082]

which software you are use for design schematic diagram? pls tell me.

[@amitghosh6966]

Is it xl4016 based buck converter ?

[@pdrfrzpdrfrz8107]

Hi, very nice video! I am planning to build up a similar one, thanks for the advice☺👍. I have a question, can I use the RM065 10k potentiometer instead of this one in the video? Thanks

[@bksidhu6437]

Thankew for such wonderful DIY. My SMPS is from 2000 as well however my capacitors near the AC supply end were burned , they are 200v 330uf. I tried to search for these online but found none. If you had faced this I wonder huv did you find these capacitors.

[@donaldm1156]

I would like to have AC not only DC, do you have any suggestions?

[@vataslab9700]

A or B pots are you used?

[@dieselgeezer18]

Heu bro. I want to buy a step-up and a step-down converter. They should output the same voltage ranges? The step-down converter output from 1.3 to 35 Volts and the step-up converter from 5-24volts.

[@iLive2Ride76]

How would you build a way to see the max amp before connecting a load to the output? A switch and a big dummy resistor?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

The max amp of the Power source must be on the label and the max output amp of the module it's on its datasheet. Just check the product datasheet for all the info. If you test the maximum output with a dummy resistor you might burn it or turn it off due to safety features. But, you could use a low resistance high power potentiometer and decrease its resistance step by step and when the module get's burned out or turn off that means that you've reached max power..

[@iLive2Ride76]

Electronoobs we don't understand each other 😀. Try to explain better. I'm building a variable power supply with a computer power supply and a LTC3780 www.ebay.com/itm/182056616138 . I can adjust both V and A. I would like to have the option to set maximum current before I apply a load on the output.

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Oh, now I understand. Yes you could add a switch and a dummy load connected to the switch when the switch is OFF. In that way you could set the current limit on the displaay. When the switch is ON it should be connected to your circuit and the current limit would be already set. Keep up!

[@iLive2Ride76]

Electronoobs thanks. Is it possible to do this automatically? So when no load is connected I can adjust max output? Without using a manual switch.

[@UpcycleElectronics]

AquaLars FishNShrimps You can create a current limit on any power supply. Use a TL431 shunt reference with the standard example circuit from the datasheet, with one change, replace the R1 resistor with a potentiometer. Pick a resistor combination that will give you a 1-5 volt adjustment range with this pot. Feed the output of the reference to a logic level n-channel power MOSFET. Place the MOSFET in front of your ground terminal. This will allow you to create an adjustable current sink limit for any power supply. Be sure to use a current limiting resistor ahead of the TL431, it can't handle more than 100mA.

[@williamreynolds8210]

Great video! You said a dummy load should be applied to each of the three fixed voltage outputs? What are their values? I've seen a different video you (Sorin) did, using only one dummy load on the 5V line (no need for a load on the 3.3V and 12V lines). Please comment. Thank you!

[@cholitolvrvzv6726]

How can I make one that can pick up a 4000watt car amplifier

[@artuino9404]

Can we use the diy buck boost converter GreatScott!! made

[@elidari60]

Nice video nice information about the price it’s over $20 I don’t know how you came up with $10 approximately but it’s nice thank you

[@xboxgamer9216]

In my country it is near 6$

[@marklndp]

Could you help me, I've built this to your word and without the Voltage/amp display it works great. When I connect it to the Display using 5v and ground my Power supply powers up for 1 seconds then goes right off.. Removing the LED fixes this problem

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

The LED is the problem or the Display?

[@marklndp]

im not sure, ive tried everything get the led display but im getting nothing. will it still display even if i dont have the 3 pin in?

[@artuino9404]

What should my dummy resistor's resistance be

[@ArdaX95]

underrated channel ...

[@PiratCarribean]

What is -12v ? And what is the middle potentiometer for?

[@bogdanpashchenko2142]

on 9:25 voltage readings jump while current knob is turned it should not be like that

[@konyaelod]

How can I now the current limits for my cables

[@filobolla3897]

what about high current (5Amps) 24v out of an atx rail? Is it possible or not? I have led strip which require 24v and are 14w/m

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

For that you should boost the (5volts 30A output) to 24 volts using a high current boost module. Maybe this will do the job: www.ebay.com/itm/600W-DC-Boost-Voltage-Converter-12-80V-Transformer-Module-Regulator-Volt-Amp-Car-/401325123362?hash=item5d70d76722:g:Q7MAAOSwtGlZE1Ef

[@filobolla3897]

thanks for the reply! So do you use the variable part to handle the voltage for little projects while the "fixed part" to have high current rail for bigger loads didn't you? Last question: some people solder high power resistors to the highest current rail. Why didn't you do that? Is it always necessary?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Yes, you should add a high power dummy load on the power rail (in this case red 5V) to keep the power supply a little bit more stable for low amounts of current. I forgot to mention that.

[@phillrusco9181]

1. The +12v of the power supply is rated at 8A and the buck boost supports only 4A. Isn't that a problem? or is it 4 drawn not input? 2. Can you make a video of it running a 12v/24v motor at 4A? or just test it and tell me that it works

[@nikosfotiou1280]

The led A/V display causes a short circuit, any ideas ?

[@anthonypoole6901]

So i got a holy crap idea i need info on. Computer tower with a dvr drive power supply with sound for testing everything such as car stereos ,amps, tvs and programing updates for tvs . The info i need here is how can i make and old computer into a bench power supply with the capability to to update tvs?

[@jaymontano879]

No link for stuff that you use?

[@markjastine8054]

hi how are you? can i know how to make the labels that you are using on your project ? thanks.

[@brucemangy]

My ocd is kicking in ... your display have Tension on Top and Current on Bottom, and you don't put in same order for the potentiometters ? ^^

[@sledzeppelin]

What's the 3rd potentiometer on the board for?

[@williamkn621]

Where is the link to bangood premade power supply mentioned

[@bktechnologies88]

Wow this guy is great

[@ManofCulture]

I can't tell that you're a "noob" because you did it in a professional way. :D

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

ANTHONY CABALLERO lol. it's for noobs not that I'm a noob. I was a noob when I've started electronoobs

[@ManofCulture]

You really did a great job on that power supply :D

[@Fashionbysarita]

what is max. current we can draw from it

[@zanzarista1132]

I like the tutorial! I'd like to know if you figured out what the center potentiometer does? I bought 3 of the boards from ebay and asked the seller what center potentiometer does. He didn't understand my question. I tried to use google translate to help with the explanation, but I never did get an answer to my question. I'm concerned about adjusting the center pot without knowing what I'm changing. Thanks for your time in replying. Keep up the great work!

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UT8xg1BXbJXXXagOFbX3/220353225/UT8xg1BXbJXXXagOFbX3.jpg One limits the current output so the module will have the output actiuvated but the current limited. The other one will detect the limit of current that you set and turn the module off when that limit is reached (and turn on the red LED). I recommend to leave the middle one how it is so you have the full range of output current.

[@James-of-all]

Great explanation, and your website and links are great!

[@bihanduinsara8731]

This bench power suply can be limit voltage

[@avijitpalit9499]

If smps output current is high then how to freduce it?

[@l.llasantha2946]

Is the buck boost module still works pls pls tell

[@science0074]

6:00 potentiiometer